Pack 3 excursions | Cercle d'Or, Snaefellsnes et grotte de glace

The Golden Circle is a 300 kilometre (186 mile) route to the three most popular natural attractions in Iceland: the Geysir Geothermal Area, Gullfoss Waterfall and Þingvellir National Park.

This sightseeing trail is easy to do within half a day from Reykjavík, either by self-drive or on one of many tours. Some of these tours have additional activities, such as snorkelling or snowmobiling, or are conducted in a unique style, such as by helicopter, or under the midnight sun.

Within the three locations of the Golden Circle are some of the clearest examples of Iceland’s fascinating geological forces, magnificent landscapes, and rich culture.

The Geysir Geothermal Area

The Geysir Geothermal Area is a hot-spring haven in Haukadalur Valley. As could be guessed, it is home to a famous geyser, the name of which has named all others: Geysir itself.

Though this feature is currently in a phase of inactivity, its neighbour Strokkur more than makes up for it. Every five to ten minutes, it blasts a column of boiling water to heights that can reach over 40 metres (131 feet).

The surrounding area is dotted with fumaroles, hot springs, and mud-pits. There are also two other smaller geysers, Smiður and Litlí-Strokkur, that can be easily visited, as well as a hotel, restaurant, cafe and gift shop across the road.

Gullfoss Waterfall

The 'Golden Waterfall', Gullfoss one of the most beautiful and powerful waterfalls in Iceland, plummeting 32 metres (105 feet) in two tiers into the river gorge of the popular rafting river Hvítá. It is just a ten-minute drive from Geysir and is the furthest point on the Golden Circle from Reykjavík.

Gullfoss was very almost lost in the early 20th century when British developers sought to harness its incredible power for geothermal energy. Though they got the lease to the land, allowing them to go ahead with their plans, they met an unlikely adversary: the daughter of the farmer who owned it, Sigríður Tómasdóttir.

This resilient woman refused to see the waterfall, to which she and her sisters paved the first path, destroyed. She, therefore, walked over 200 kilometres (124 miles) to Reykjavík and back multiple times to meet with a lawyer in order to help change the decision.

Though the process was arduous and took years, eventually Sigríður managed to exhaust the resources of the businessmen and they withdrew their plans. Because of her, all Icelandic waterfalls are now protected from foreign investors, and she is considered one of Iceland’s first environmentalists and most important historical people.

Thingvellir National Park

The largest attraction of the Golden Circle is Þingvellir National Park. The Icelandic parliament was founded here in 930 and remained until the year 1798 before moving to Reykjavík, making it the original site of what is now the world’s longest ongoing parliament.

Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important places to visit in Iceland. This is not just for its historical and cultural values, but for also its magnificent landscape and dramatic geology.

Þingvellir is surrounded by a beautiful mountain and volcanic ranges, as it is located in a rift valley directly between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This makes it one of the few places in the world where you can walk between the continents, in the Mid-Atlantic Rift.

The daring and qualified even have opportunities to snorkel or scuba dive in this no-mans-land, in a ravine filled with crystal-clear spring water called Silfra. The visibility here can exceed 100 metres (328 feet), revealing incredible geological sites. Though it never freezes over due to the constant flow of water into it, it is 2°C (35°C) throughout the year, thus underwater explorers are always equipped with protective suits.

Other sites of note are the magnificent Almannagjá gorge, which you can walk down into to reach the rift valley from the North American tectonic plate, and the beautiful lake Þingvallavatn, the largest lake in Iceland, which gleams to the south of the National Park.

Surrounding sites

Due to its convenient location in south-west Iceland, it is easy to visit the Golden Circle alongside with many other sites. Those seeking relaxation could head to the Secret Lagoon in Flúðir or Fontana Spa in Laugarvatn, those seeking adventure could book a trip to the ice tunnels of Langjökull glacier, and those seeking culture could visit the Sólheimar ecovillage. For more natural beauty, you can visit the nearby Kerið crater lake.

There are many tours that include such bonuses, but if driving yourself, you should check out this guide to great detours off the Golden Circle.

Reykjavík is the capital of Iceland and the northernmost capital of any sovereign state in the world.

Despite a small population (approximately 120,000, with just over 200,000 in the Greater Reykjavík area), it is a vibrant city that draws an ever increasing number of visitors every year. It is the financial, cultural and political centre of Iceland, and has a reputation of being one of the cleanest and safest cities in the world.

Geography

The city of Reykjavík is located in southwest Iceland by Faxaflói Bay. Throughout the ages, the landscape has been shaped by glaciers, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and the area is geothermal; after all, its name translates to ‘Smoky Bay’.

Much of the current city area was subglacial during the Ice Age, with the glacier reaching as far as the Álftanes peninsula, while other areas lay under the sea.  After the end of the Ice Age, the land rose as the glaciers drifted away, and it began to take on its present form.

The coastline of Reykjavík is set with peninsulas, coves, straits and islands, most notably the island of Viðey, and seabirds and whales frequent the shores. The mountain ring as seen from the shore is particularly beautiful.

Mount Esjan is the highest mountain in the vicinity of Reykjavík and the most distinctive feature of the coastline. This majestic summit is also highly popular amongst hikers and climbers. Other notable mountains that can be seen from the seaside are Akrafjall and Skarðsheiði.

On clear days, one may even see as far to the legendary Snæfellsjökull glacier, at the end of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

The largest river to run through the city is Elliðaá in Elliðaárdalur valley, which is also one of Iceland’s best rivers for salmon fishing.

Transportation

There are no trains or trams in Iceland, but most people travel by car. The city also operates a bus system. There are two major harbours in town, the old harbour in the centre and Sundahöfn in the east.

The domestic Reykjavík Airport is located at Vatnsmýrin, not far from the city centre and close to the hill Öskjuhlíð and the restaurant, vantage point and exhibition centre Perlan. The international Keflavík Airport at Miðnesheiði heath then lies around 50 kilometres (31 miles) from the city.

Cars, jeeps and bicycles can be readily rented in the city and many organized tours are also being offered. It is, however, quite easy to walk between the major sites.

What to See & Do in Reykjavik

The local arts scene is strong in Iceland, with annual events and festivals, many of artists from which have hit the international stage.

Major events taking place in Reykjavík include Iceland Airwaves, Reykjavík Pride, RIFF (The Reykjavík International Film Festival), The Reykjavík Literature Festival, Culture Night, the Reykjavík Arts Festival, Food & Fun, the Reykjavík Fashion Festival and the Sónar music festival.

Amongst the famous people from Reykjavík are musicians like Björk Guðmundsdóttir and Sigur Rós, and writers Halldór Laxness (born on the main street, Laugavegur) and Arnaldur Indriðason.

Those eager to soak up the local culture should visit the city’s many museums, exhibitions and galleries, and check out live music at the cafés, bars, and concert venues dotted around. You could look at the programmes of what’s on at the Harpa music hall or the theatres, or else plan a few hours at the lighthouse at Grótta, the shopping street of Laugavegur, or the old harbour and the flea market.

You could even book a bird- and whale watching tour or a visit to Viðey island. There are a lot of things to do and the possibilities are endless.

Make sure to visit the public square of Austurvöllur, one of the city’s most popular gathering places, where you’ll also find the national parliament, the Alþingi, as well as the state church, a statue of independence hero Jón Sigurðsson, cafés, bars and restaurants.

Austurvöllur was central in the protests following the banking collapse of 2008, along with Lækjargata, home to the House of Government. You are also not likely to miss the great church of Hallgrímskirkja that towers over the city from the hill of Skólavörðuholt, from which you’ll get a great view of the city.

Try a walk by the city pond, Tjörnin, to greet the many birds that frequent the area and to visit the city hall, stationed by its banks. A beautiful park lies by the pond, ideal for a nice walk, and sometimes concerts get held there.

Further off is the campus of the University of Iceland, the Nordic house and the Vatnsmýrin wetland, a particularly pleasant place, but be mindful to not disturb the wildlife there by keeping to the pathways.

For a nice swim on a warm day, we particularly recommend Nauthólsvík beach, which is heated with geothermal water. Those who love a dip should also visit the Laugardalur valley, home to one of the city’s best swimming pools, which sits a short walk away from Ásmundarsafn gallery, a beautiful botanical garden and a domestic zoo.

A walk by the Ægissíða beach, with its old fishing sheds, in the west part of Reykjavík also holds a particular charm. From there, you can see all the way to president’s house at Bessastaðir, which is also a historical site in its own right, having been the educational centre of Iceland for centuries. 

Another place that offers one of the city’s best views is Perlan, up on Öskjuhlíð hill. The hill itself is a popular place to spend a few hours, with over 176,000 trees and great opportunities for walking and cycling. Perlan also has and observation deck with great views, a café and an exhibition centre.

Furthermore, the city is a short drive from many of Iceland’s major attractions, most famously the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. In close vicinity you’ll also find the Heiðmörk preservation area, a favourite local site of the people of Reykjavík, as well as the Blue Mountains, one of Iceland’s best skiing venues.

Finally, we’d like to stress that these are only some suggestions of the many things you might check out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose to do, we hope you’ll be able to make the most of your visit and we wish you a pleasant stay in our capital.

Snæfellsjökull is a glacier-capped volcano found on the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in west Iceland. It stands in a National Park of the same name, one of the only three National Parks in the country.

It stands at 1,446 metres (4,744 feet) tall, and on clear days, is visible across the bay from Reykjavík. The stratovolcano beneath Snæfellsjökull is 700,000-year-old.

The mountain is actually called 'Snæfell' (Snowy Mountain), though the 'jökull' (Glacier) is often added to help distinguish it from other mountains of the same name.

For the first time in recorded history, Snæfellsjökull had no snow or ice at its peak in August 2012, causing concern amongst locals that climate change is threatening the nature of the mountain.

History

Snæfellsjökull has several small villages surrounding it, including Hellissandur, Rif and Ólafsvík, all of which were some of the busiest commercial and fishing hubs in the country for much of the last millennium.

Fishing took off primarily in the 13th-Century, with fishing stations being built in all areas with easy access to the open ocean. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula was a notable centre of this industry, due to the fertile waters within Breiðafjörður bay.

One notable example would be the settlement of Dritvík; in spite of its minuscule size today, it once utilised around forty to sixty boats and employed up to six hundred people.

Fishing in the region declined during the 19th century due to change in Iceland’s industry and fish stocks, though it is still an important source of livelihood for those living on the Peninsula.

The Snæfellsjökull National Park was established in 2001, and tourism is rapidly changing the trade of the area.

In Folklore

Snæfellsjökull has, for centuries, been considered to be one of the world’s ancient power sites, a source of mysticism, energy and mystery for the peninsula’s superstitious population.

The feature takes a prominent role in Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, a late 14th-century saga that tells the story of  Bárður, half-human-half-troll, who became the 'guardian spirit of Snæfellsjökull'.

There are many rock formations on and around Snæfellsjökull that are said to be trolls petrified by sunlight, or else homes of the hidden people.

On November 5th, 1993, thousands of people came to Snæfellsjökull as some paranormal enthusiasts believed there would be an alien landing; CNN even showed up with a camera crew. Though the evening passed without a galactic invasion, the incident shows the strange significance of Snæfellsjökull to many.

In Literature

Snæfellsjökull serves as the entrance to a fantastical subterranean world in Jules Verne’s classic 1864 novel 'Journey to The Centre of The Earth.' Given its central place in the novel, Snæfellsjökull has become one of the most popular spots for visitors in Iceland and has inspired a wealth of writers, poets and artists.

Since 'Journey to The Centre of The Earth', Snæfellsjökull has appeared in the ‘Blind Birds’ trilogy by Czech science fiction writer Ludvík Souček (partially based on Jules’ work) and in ‘Under The Glacier’, a novel by Iceland’s only Nobel laureate, Halldór Laxness.

Nearby Attractions

Along with the glacier, attractions on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula include the two nearby basalt cliffs called Lóndrangar and the many fascinating lava formations at the beautiful Djúpalónssandur beach, such as the arch rock Gatklettur.

At Djúpalónssandur, one can also test their muscle as historic sailors once did with the four 'strength' stones, Amlóði ('Useless'), Hálfdrættingur ('Weakling'), Hálfsterkur ('Half Strength') and Fullsterkur ('Full Strength').  

In the area, one can also explore the Saxhóll volcano crater and 'the singing cave' Sönghellir, which is named after the loud echoes inside.

Seljalandsfoss is a waterfall that can be fully encircled, situated on the South Coast of Iceland with a drop of 60 metres (200 feet).

Due to the waterfall’s close proximity to the Ring Road and impressive natural features, it is one the country's most famous and visited falls. Majestic and picturesque, it is one of the most photographed features in all of Iceland.

Geology and Surroundings

Seljalandsfoss waterfall, part of the river Seljalandsá, has its origins underneath the glacier Eyjafjallajökull. The volcano beneath this ice cap was the one that erupted in 2010 and caused havoc at airports across Europe.

The cascade of the falls is relatively narrow but falls from a tall cliff that once marked the country's coastline, the sea is now located across a stretch of lowlands and is visible from the site.

The most distinguishing feature of Seljalandsfoss is a pathway that stretches all the way around it. The cliffs behind the falls have a wide cavern, and rocks and paths allow guests to fully encircle it in summer.

Though a mesmerising opportunity, visitors should be prepared to get dampened due to the perpetual mist of the falls, which also tends to make the rocks of the pathway slippery. 

Floodlights have been set up on both sides of the waterfall, which impressively illuminate the scene during the night when the midnight sun is not out. The lights were installed in 2001 due to the growing popularity of the falls as a tourist destination.

After visiting Seljalandsfoss, it is common for visitors to continue north to the waterfall Gljúfrabúi, which is found partially hidden behind a rock face. Because of Seljalandsfoss extreme popularity, Gljúfrabúi is widely considered the hidden gem of the scene, as it is too often overlooked.

Seljalandsfoss is also usually visited alongside the nearby Skógafoss. The waterfall falls from the same height, and while it cannot be encircled, it is much more powerful and steeped in the legend of a giant’s hidden treasure.

Visitor Centre Controversy

In 2017, it was announced that a visitor’s centre was to be constructed near the falls. The design of the building indicated that it would be seven metres (23 feet) high and 2,000 square metres (21,500 square feet) in size. Landowners in the area opposed to the idea, proclaiming that the centre would greatly alter the natural appearance of the waterfall’s renowned scenery.

The project has neither been fully approved nor wholly cancelled, with ideas surfacing of either significantly reducing the size of the construction, or moving the visitor centre’s location further away, for instance to the nearby farmstead Brekkuhorn.

Seljalandsfoss in Popular Culture

Along with a multitude of South Iceland’s most famous natural attractions, Seljalandsfoss can be seen in Justin Bieber’s music video for his song ‘I’ll Show You’. Please enjoy the video without emulating any antics that will endanger yourself or the environment.

The waterfall was also a featured waypoint during the first leg of the sixth season of The Amazing Race, an American reality TV series.

Geysir is a famous hot spring in the geothermal area of Haukadalur Valley, found in south-west Iceland.

Making up just one of the attractions along the world-renowned Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside Þingvellir National Park and the mighty Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir is most well-known for having lent its name to geysers all around the world.

Geography 

Though Geysir itself is rarely active these days, Haukadalur Valley boasts a plethora of hot springs and geysers, including the powerful Strokkur, Smiður and Litli-Strokkur.

Strokkur is, arguably, the country’s most famous hot spring, shooting vast jets of boiling water from 20 metres (65 feet) up to 40 metres (130 feet) high. Don’t worry about missing this incredible spectacle of nature, as Strokkur erupts every five to ten minutes; just make sure to have your camera ready.

Geysir is much larger, but years can go by between eruptions here; it is currently in an inactive phase. When it does erupt, the water can shoot up in the air as high as 70 metres (230 feet).

Just a few minutes walk north of Geysir are a wealth of fumaroles emanating steam and gas into the cool Icelandic air. Aside from watching the hypnotic pillars of steam, you will also be able to observe the yellow sulphuric stains along the fumaroles themselves, a result of the earth’s minerals crystallising around the rock bed.

At the southern part of the valley, Þykkuhverir, you’ll find various bubbling mud pots. These spooky brown cauldrons are actually fumaroles that boil up through the loose ground; after a dry spell, these mud pools are likely to transform into a hardened fumarole.

Nearby Attractions 

About two kilometres (one mile) from Geysir is a preserved natural pool called Kúalaug. It has room for three to five people at a time, but care should be taken, as the area around the pool is very delicate. The temperature is 39-43°C (102-109°F), depending on where you are positioned in the pool.

The water is slightly muddy, as the pool is built on soil, and the bottom is slippery due to algae, so caution is advised when relaxing here.

Haukadalur has also seen a rise in reforestation in recent times thanks to continued experiments and research in the area. Today, Haukadalsskógur is one of the largest forests in south Iceland, boasting accessible walking paths (also for wheelchair users), fascinating vegetation and The Tree Museum, built in the memory of forester Gunnar Freysteinsson.

History 

Haukadalur has been inhabited and used as a church site since the Age of Settlement. Given its historic value, it should be noted that scholar, Ari “The Wise“ Þorgilsson, grew up here; it was also where the first pastoral school in Iceland was built.

The current wooden church was last rebuilt in 1938 but its architectural style dates back to 1842, making it well worth a visit to see how Iceland looked before industrialisation.

For accommodation, Hotel Gullfoss is approximately 7 kilometre from the Geysir area, and closer still is Hotel Geysir on the other side of the road from the attraction, where you will also find a restaurant, café and a souvenir shop.

Gullfoss (translated to ‘Golden Falls’) is one of Iceland’s most iconic and beloved waterfalls, found in the Hvítá river canyon in south-west Iceland.

The water in Hvítá river travels from the glacier Langjökull, before cascading 32 meters (105 feet) down Gullfoss’ two stages in a dramatic display of nature’s raw power. This incredible site is seen by most visitors, as it is on the Golden Circle sightseeing route.

Because of the waterfall’s two stages, Gullfoss should actually be thought of as two separate features. The first, shorter cascade is 11 metres (36 feet), whilst the second drop is 21 metres (69 feet). The canyon walls on both sides of the waterfall reach heights of up to 70 metres (230 feet), descending into the great Gullfossgjúfur canyon. Geologists believe that this canyon was formed by glacial outbursts at the beginning of the last age.

In the summer, approximately 140 cubic metres (459 cubic feet) of water surges down the waterfall every second, whilst in winter that number drops to around 109 cubic metres (358 cubic feet). With such energy, visitors should not be surprised to find themselves drenched by the waterfall’s mighty spray.

As mentioned, Gullfoss makes up a part of the highly popular Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside Geysir geothermal area and Þingvellir National Park. Many Golden Circle tours include additional activities that can be taken from Gullfoss, such as ascending the mighty nearby glacier Langjökull and entering its ice tunnels, or snowmobiling along its gleaming surface.

History

In the early days of the last century, Gullfoss was at the centre of much controversy regarding foreign investors and their desire to profit off Iceland’s nature. In the year 1907, an English businessman, Howell, sought to utilise the waterfall’s energy and harboured ambitions to use its energy to fuel a hydroelectric plant.

At the time, Gullfoss was owned by a farmer named Tómas Tómasson. Tómas declined Howell’s offer to purchase the land, stating famously “I will not sell my friend!” He would, however, go on to lease Howell the land without the knowledge of a loophole that would allow him to proceed with his plans.

It was Tómas’ daughter, Sigríður Tómasdóttir, who would lead the charge to stop Howell’s ambitions. Having grown up on her father’s sheep farm where she helped pave the first road to Gullfoss, she sought to get the contract nullified, hurriedly saving her own money to hire a lawyer.

The ensuing legal battle was an uphill struggle; the case continued for years, forcing Sigríður to travel many times by foot to Reykjavík, a distance of over 100 kilometres (62 miles). Circumstances became so difficult that Sigríður threatened to throw herself into the waterfall if any construction began.

Her tenacity, however, resulted in success. In 1929, Howell’s withdrew from the lease, unable to keep up with the costs and difficulties of his plan. The waterfall fell back into the hands of the Icelandic people.

Today, Sigríður is recognised for her perseverance in protecting Gullfoss and is often hailed as Iceland’s first environmentalist. As such, she is one of the most famous figures in Iceland’s history. Her contribution is forever marked in stone; a plaque detailing her plight sits at the top of Gullfoss.

Interestingly, the lawyer who assisted Sigríður, Sveinn Björnsson, went on to go down in history too; he became the first president of Iceland in 1944.

Restaurant / Cafe

Besides Gullfoss, visitors can enjoy the views from Gullfoss Cafe, a locally run delicatessen that serves a wide variety of refreshments and meals. The menu has options to tantalise everyone’s taste buds: hot soups, sandwiches, salads and cakes. There is also a shop on site where visitors’ can browse and purchase traditional Icelandic souvenirs.

The glacier volcano of Eyjafjallajökull is notorious the world over for causing havoc to air travel in 2010, and stumping television anchors everywhere as they tried to pronounce it. 1651 metres (5427 feet) tall, it is one of the most dominant features of the South Coast.

Geography

The glacier of Eyjafjallajökull is approximately 100 square kilometres (39 square miles), making it the country’s sixth largest. It sits close to the fourth greatest, Mýrdalsjökull, which also conceals another notorious volcano, this one called Katla.

While Eyjafjallajökull’s eruption was huge and disruptive, it pales in comparison to the potential of Katla. Far more explosive, and under much thicker ice, an eruption here in unfavourable wind conditions could have worldwide consequences.

The magma chambers between both of these mighty volcanoes are connected, and, unfortunately for us, an eruption at Eyjafjallajökull is usually followed by one at Katla within a decade.

Eyjafjallajökull has many glacial outlets, the most famous being Gígjökull. Many rivers flow from its meltwater, and one of these falls into the beautiful South Coast waterfall, Seljalandsfoss, which it is possible to fully encircle.

Eruptions

Eyjafjallajökull’s most recent eruption was no doubt the most famous in Iceland’s history (although the honour really should go to Laki, the 1783-4 eruption of which caused an ash cloud so great that Europe fell into a famine that many historians believe led to the French Revolution). On March 27th, 2010, magma began to bubble from beneath the surface, and by April 14th, ash was starting to billow from the peak.

800 people were evacuated, in fears not of magma, but of equally dangerous glacial floods, which have decimated Icelandic towns in the past. Animals were ordered to be kept inside, and those with respiratory problems told they should also stay indoors.

Air travel across Europe was halted, as, by the evening of April 15th, the ash was already over the UK, Scandinavia, and parts of Germany. Holidaymakers were trapped, waiting for news, and would end up stuck for eight days; in Scotland and Ireland, there were even flights delayed in May due to lingering effects.

Thankfully, no one was injured, although the ash is thought to have caused respiratory issues for some in the south of the country. Many farms were also destroyed by the ash and floods, with some farmers still struggling to recover today.

Since settlement in 874, Eyjafjallajökull has also erupted in 900, 1612, and from 1821 to 1823. The latter released a huge amount of fluoride which is believed to have affected the bone health of humans and animals alike at the time.

Eyjafjallajokull today

Eyjafjallajökull is now entirely safe to visit and is seen on most tours of the South Coast in clear weather. In the town of Hvolsvöllur, there is a visitor’s centre on the volcano, which focuses on the experience of one family whose farm, Þorvaldseyri, was one of the many destroyed by the floods, lava and ash.

It is very unlikely that Eyjafjallajökull will erupt again any time soon, with hundreds of years between each eruption, but as mentioned, its neighbour Katla might start rumbling...

Þingvellir National Park is the only UNESCO World Heritage site on the Icelandic mainland and one of the three stops on the world famous Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside the Haukadalur Geothermal Valley (Geysir) and Gullfoss Waterfall. Just to the south of the park is Þingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest natural lake.

Geography 

The first thing that visitors to the National Park notice is its sheer aesthetic beauty; dried magma fields, covered in Icelandic moss, sit carved by glacial springs and surrounded by a bowl of ancient mountain peaks.

Two of the greatest attractions in the park are the exposed North American and Eurasian tectonic plates; it is one of the only regions in the world where you can see geology such as this on land.

Visitors are encouraged to walk along the North American tectonic plate, where they can read more about the area’s fascinating formation and history, before descending into the valley below.

History 

Þingvellir can be anglicised to ‘Fields of Parliament’, a nod to the area’s fascinating history and relevance to Icelandic culture. It is here, after all, that the world’s first democratically elected parliament that remains functioning, Alþingi, was formed in 930 AD.

It may seem unlikely that Vikings would want to be under such an uncombative government, but the thirty or so clans that lived in Iceland at the time sought to prosper in their harsh new environment.

The first gathering was such a success that the meetings became annual, and it became a place where disputes were settled, criminals were tried, and laws to the benefit of all were laid down.

This saw the birth of the Icelandic Commonwealth, a time of independence and freedom for the Icelandic people before they became constituents of the Norwegian monarchy. Sessions would continue to be held at Þingvellir until 1798.

Though the parliament was removed by the Danish at this time, it returned 1845 to Reykjavík.

Silfra Fissure 

Þingvellir is one of the most widely visited attractions in Iceland, in large part due to the fact that it is home to the glacial spring, Silfra fissure, one of the top ten sites in the world for snorkellers and scuba divers.

Silfra (meaning ‘Silver’) is a submerged ravine within the park, boasting visibility of up to 100 metres (328 feet) and a temperature just above freezing. Participants in these tours will be attired at the Silfra carpark in neoprene hoodies and gloves, as well as an undersuit and drysuit for thermal protection.

Katla is one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, located underneath Iceland’s fourth largest ice cap, Mýrdalsjökull. Since settlement, it has erupted, on average, once every fifty years, with the last eruption in 1918. It is long overdue.

Katla is connected to Eyjafjallajökull, which erupted in 2010 and caused widespread disruption to air traffic, as well as changes in climate. Usually, Katla is triggered by an eruption here, usually going off within the decade afterwards. Kristín Jónsdóttir said in 2016 that it was ‘a matter of when, not if’ Iceland would face the wrath of Katla once more.

Katla means ‘Kettle’ in Icelandic, and many women are named after the volcano with it being one of the more popular girl’s names.

Geography and geology of Katla

Katla is located on Iceland’s South Coast, north of the village of Vík. Its peak is 1,512 metres (4,961 feet) above sea level, and its crater is 10 kilometres (6.2 miles) wide. The ice of Mýrdalsjökull is, 700 metres (2,300 feet) thick at certain points over it.

Because of this huge amount of ice, some smaller eruptions do not even break the surface. However, even these can be very dangerous, as they can still cause unexpected floods as the melted water seeps from under the glacier. One only needs to see the black sand desert of Sólheimasandur to see how much life can thrive in the glacial outwash plain under Katla.

Because of the floods caused by Katla, Iceland’s South Coast has very few settlements. Floods such as these have wiped out entire villages before.

The floods following the 1918 eruption were particularly powerful, clearing away huge swathes of land. The lava that followed, however, was so voluminous that it extended the southern coastline over five kilometres (eight miles) out to sea.

Though Eyjafjallajökull and Katla have a relationship of exploding in quick succession, they are part of different volcanic systems. Katla’s system has an area of 595 square kilometres (230 square miles), and is connected to the Eldgjá canyon.

Tours on Katla

Katla is beneath the peak of Mýrdalsjökull, which is surrounded by outlet glaciers, making tours on it few and far between - after all, it is very difficult to reach. Some helicopter tours, however, will make a landing here. Some super jeep tours also take the bumpy but beautiful path to the top.

It should be noted that there are ice caves above Katla, which are accessible for longer throughout the year than the ice caves at Vatnajökull. These ones, however, do not have blue ice.

Where to see Katla

Katla can be seen from the Ring Road, which encircles Iceland, by travelling along the South Coast, so long as the weather is clear. It will be visible for much of the drive, which also takes you passed features such as the waterfall Seljalandsfoss and the black sand beach of Reynisfjara.

It can also be viewed when visiting one of the glacier tongues of Mýrdalsjökull, such as Sólheimajökull, the most popular outlet for glacier hiking.

Strokkur is Iceland’s most visited active geyser. One of the three major attractions on the world-famous Golden Circle sightseeing route, it is usually visited alongside Gullfoss Waterfall and Þingvellir National Park.

Strokkur is found in the Geysir Geothermal Area, titled after the Great Geysir, which lent its name to all others across the world. It is the greatest active geyser on site; Geysir itself is in a period of inactivity. Strokkur erupts more regularly than Geysir ever did, blasting water to heights of around fifteen to twenty metres every five to ten minutes, although it is known to reach up to forty metres. 

Strokkur and Haukadalur Valley

Strokkur is the primary feature of the Haukadalur valley and the main reason why it is one of the most visited sites in the country. While Geysir will very occasionally still erupt to enormous heights, it is nowhere near reliable enough to justify the area’s popularity.

Haukadalur valley, however, has many other features that make it worth a visit. The natural beauty of the area is shaped by the forces of the earth; fumaroles, hot-springs, mud-pits and other little geysers are littered around, and the ground itself is dyed vividly by elements such as sulfur (yellow), copper (green) and iron (red).

Opposite the main geothermal area in Haukadalur Valley is a restaurant, cafe, hotel and luxury gift shop.

Science behind Strokkur

Active geysers like Strokkur are rare around the world, due to the fact that many conditions must be met for them to form. They are thus only found in certain parts of highly geothermal areas.

The first condition that is necessary is an intense heat source; magma must be close enough to the surface of the earth for the rocks to be hot enough to boil water. Considering that Iceland is located on top of the rift valley between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, this condition is met throughout most of the county.

Secondly, you will need a source of flowing underground water. In the case of Strokkur, this comes from the second largest glacier in the country, Langjökull. Meltwater from the glacier sinks into the surrounding porous lava rock, and travels underground in all directions.

Evidence of this flowing water can be found in Þingvellir National Park, where there are many freshwater springs flowing straight from the earth.

Finally, you need a complex plumbing system that allows a geyser to erupt, rather than just steam from the ground like a fumarole. Above the intense heat source, there must be space for the flowing water to gather like a reservoir. From this basin, there must be a vent to the surface. This vent must be lined with silica so that the boiling, rising water cannot escape before the eruption.

Environmental Issues with Strokkur

One of the main reasons that Geysir entered a period of inactivity was due to the fact soap used to be pumped into the vents to make the eruptions more dramatic; it damaged the structure of the vent and prevented water building up. Strokkur, therefore, is guarded against all interference, with chains keeping visitors a good distance away.

Unfortunately, however, there have been incidents where people have meddled with its natural state. For example, an artist called Marco Evaristti once poured food colouring into it to make the eruption pink. He defended himself by claiming that nature was open to artists to utiltise and the fact the colouring was all-natural, but he became a pariah amongst many Icelanders, and was arrested and fined (though never paid it).

Almannagjá is a gorge within Þingvellir National Park, which marks the edge of the North American tectonic plate. It is possible to hike through and has a beautiful waterfall within it.

Geology of Almannagjá

Almannagjá marks the boundary of the Mid-Atlantic Rift, which runs through Iceland. This rift is the space between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.

Nowhere in the country is this remarkable feature more distinct than in Þingvellir National Park. At different points within it, it is possible to see both cliffs that mark the ends of the continents, and when driving through it, you descend one of them and ascend the other.

The movements of the tectonic plates as they slowly pull away from each other give the park many distinctive features. It is littered with ravines, many of which are filled with crystal clear spring water (the most famous of these being the snorkelling and diving site Silfra) and it is coated in lava rock.

The movement of the plates also created Almannagjá. As the North American plate pulled west, it could no longer sustain its weight, causing what used to be the edge to break free of the continent in an earthquake. This left the Almannagjá gorge between the two segment.

The gorge varies in width, but at several points can be walked through. A waterfall tumbles in one part of it, called Öxaráfoss, which can easily be reached on foot.

History of Almannagjá

Almannagjá gorge has witnessed a great deal of Icelandic history. This is because Þingvellir itself was the original site of the world’s longest-running, ongoing parliament, the Alþing.

The lawspeakers of the Alþing would stand on a rock above Almannagjá gorge to read out the laws of the day to thousands of people, who would come annually to settle debates, exchange news, represent their families and clans (in the earliest days), and battle for dominance.

Snæfellsnes is a large peninsula extending from West Iceland, often nicknamed ‘Iceland in Miniature’ due to its wealth and diversity of natural features found there.

Home to the Snæfellsjökull National Park, at the centre of which is a subglacial volcano that towers over the scenery, this peninsula is home to waterfalls, rock formations, beautiful beaches, historic villages, and an intricate folklore.

In particularly clear weather, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula can sometimes be seen from Reykjavík, making views across the water from the capital of Iceland particularly beautiful. Those with an extended stay in Iceland are recommended to look into spending at least a day here.

Natural Sites of Snaefellsnes

The peninsula stretches 90 kilometres (56 miles) from West Iceland, between the Reykjanes Peninsula to the south and Westfjords to the north. A mountain range runs along it, consisting of both active and dormant volcanoes, culminating at the magnificent, ice-capped Snæfellsjökull volcano.

Starting along the south side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, you will first come to the Eldborg crater, which can be scaled for some incredible views, and the Gerðuberg basalt cliffs, where hundreds of hexagonal basalt columns are arranged with geometric precision. You will then start hugging the coast, where animal-lovers can find the Ytri-Tunga beach and its year-round seal colony.

The next site of particular natural beauty is the Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, a cleft in a huge cliff face that it is possible to climb into. A stream runs through here, so those who want to plumb its depths will get wet. Those with decent clothing, sturdy shoes and reasonable fitness, however, will be able to get quite far.

After Rauðfeldsgjá, you will come to the mighty basalt plugs of Lóndrangar. All that remains of what was once a massive crater, these two enormous pillars are not only awe-inspiring in their scale, but home to thousands of nesting seabirds.

You will then enter Snæfellsjökull National Park, which, in spite of being the smallest of the country’s three national parks, is pregnant with destinations worth visiting.

The most historic of these is Djúpalónssandur beach. Comprised of black, volcanic sands, it is best-known for the four lifting stones that remain on the beach from a bygone age. Fishermen would use these stones to mark their strength, and gage their suitability to working on the dangerous waves.

Within the National Park are also two lava caves that can be entered in summer. Sönghellir is renowned for the musical qualities of its echoes, whereas Vatnshellir is favoured for its easy access and vivid colouration. There is a small entry fee to the latter and you cannot enter it without a guide.

Of course, however, the highlight of this part of the Peninsula is no doubt Snæfellsjökull itself. Even if you are not ascending it on a glacier hiking tour, it is worth stopping by to marvel at.

This is particularly the case for literature enthusiasts. The adventure in the Jules Verne novel ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’ begins here, and it is the backdrop to the lesser-known novel ‘Under the Glacier’, by Nobel-Prize winning Icelander, Halldór Laxness.

On the north side of the peninsula is the haunting Berserkjahraun lava field, near the town of Bjarnarhöfn, the history of which weaves deception and murder. Most notable on this stretch, however, is the mountain Kirkjufell, often described as the most photographed mountain in Iceland, and known as "the mountain shaped like an arrowhead" from the popular HBO series, Game of Thrones.

Cultural Sites of Snaefellsnes

There are a few small and beautiful villages dotted across the peninsula, the majority of which are on the northern side, where the fishing is better. Most notable are Arnarstapi, Hellnar, Búðir, Hellissandur, Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur.

The last of these is highly popular for travellers, featuring a volcano museum and a ferry that takes you across the fascinating Breiðafjörður bay to the south border of the Westfjords with a stop at the remote island of Flatey.

Other museums of note are the Maritime Museum at Hellissandur, the regional museum at Ólafsvík, and, last but not least, the shark museum at Bjarnarhöfn, where you can taste the Icelandic ‘delicacy’, hákarl, or fermented shark.

Mýrdalsjökull is a glacier in the south of the Icelandic highlands. It is the country's fourth largest ice cap, covering nearly 600 square kilometres (232 square miles), and its highest peak is almost 1500 meters tall. It is most well-known for sitting atop the notorious and explosive volcano, Katla.

Mýrdalsjökull is visible from Route 1 on the South Coast, sitting to the north of the village of Vík. It is visited on some snowmobiling, ice caving and helicopter tours, and one of its glacial outlets, Sólheimajökull, is the most popular place in the country for ice-climbing and glacier hiking.

Eruptions beneath Myrdalsjokull

Since 2010, the world has known of the volcano beneath Eyjafjallajökull; after all, it halted European air travel for over a week and stumped news readers everywhere. Few, however, are aware of the much larger volcano right beside it.

Mýrdalsjökull conceals Katla, one of the country’s most active volcanoes, having erupted, on average, once every fifty years since 930 AD. Because of the glacier above it, these eruptions tend to cause enormous ash clouds. It is these ash clouds that lead to flights being grounded, crops and livestock poisoned, and have the potential to change the world’s climate.

The last major eruption beneath Katla was in 1918, in which such huge lahar floods occurred that the southern coastline was extended five kilometres outwards. This area is also very susceptible to glacial floods, or 'jökulhlaup', during eruptions, even when the lava does not break through the surface of the ice. These are as dangerous as the lava itself, having wiped out whole Icelandic villages before.

Historically, the area was little settled for this reason.

Katla is connected to the same volcanic system as Eyjafjallajökull and usually erupts violently a few years after Eyjafjallajökull does. As the ex-president, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson said in 2010:

So it is currently several years overdue. Katla is monitored heavily, and roads around it closed when seismic activity increases. All road closures around Iceland can be found on Road and Coastal Administration's website.

Tours on Myrdalsjokull

While there are no eruptions immediately imminent, tours continue to run onMýrdalsjökull, allowing visitors to enjoy the glacier. It is, for example, possible to snowmobile across its surface throughout the year and take ice caving tours beneath it throughout the year, with departures from both Reykjavík and Vík.

Considering the ice caves under Vatnajökull glacier are usually only accessible from November to March, this provides a wider window of opportunity for travellers to Iceland outside of the depths of winter. It should be noted that the caves in Mýrdalsjökull do not have the same blue ice, however.

Tours around Myrdalsjokull

Mýrdalsjökull can be seen on all South Coast tours that reach Vík and beyond in clear weather. It can also be seen from above on helicopter tours that depart from Reykjavík.

The best perspectives of the glacier, however, can be found on the popular Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail, which goes between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. Part of this hike can be done in a day, or you can take the complete route from Þórsmörk to Skógar on a three-day trek

Arnarstapi is a village on the southern side of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, once a fishing hub and now a place for travellers to refuel before entering Snæfellsjökull National Park. The area has several old and charming houses with interesting stories to them and is renowned for its beautiful nature.

History of Arnarstapi

Records of settlements around Arnarstapi date back to the Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, an ancient Icelandic Saga that tells of the half-human, half-ogre who once lived on the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Since his death, he has been considered the area's guardian spirit.

The region was popular with settlers due to its natural harbour, meaning fishing in the rich herring grounds of the surrounding waters was easy. When Norway, and to a much greater extent when they took over, Denmark, were in control of Iceland, Arnarstapi grew increasingly as a trading port.

Denmark invested a lot of money into Arnarstapi throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (for their own interests, unfortunately not those of the Icelanders). Many of the resulting buildings still stand today, being some of the oldest in the country, such as the Danish Prefect’s Residence, which was built in the 1770s.

In the industrial revolution, Arnarstapi’s population radically shrunk which was common in the countryside at this time. The vast majority of Iceland’s jobs were now centralised in Reykjavík, reducing opportunities for small-time fishermen and their businesses, and the town became little more than a hamlet as a result.

As Iceland’s infrastructure rapidly improved after independence in 1943, and more people abroad began to see the many wonders of this island as a travel destination; Arnarstapi, like many other settlements in the area, got a new lease on life.

Fishing and trade remain vital parts of the economy, but they now play second fiddle to tourism and services. The village has essential services for those travelling on the peninsula, a wide array of accommodation options, and tour companies operating from it.

Nature and Sites around Arnarstapi

The beach at Arnarstapi holds a particular attraction. It has an eroded circular stone arch, called Gatklettur, and here, the interplay of spectacular waves and the light of the sun create a fascinating spectacle. Large colonies of the arctic tern also nest in the area, and both these features make it very popular amongst photographers.

An old horse trail through the lava field Hellnahraun is highly popular for hiking, due to the impressiveness of the surrounding landscape.

Arnarstapi, however, should never be too long a stop on a tour of the peninsula. As lovely as it is, the natural attractions nearby simply warrant more time. The village, for example, sits on the cusp of Snæfellsjökull National Park, home to the Snæfellsjökull glacier and volcano, the beauty of which has inspired writers and artists for centuries.

This is one of only three National Parks in the country, but it is to the credit of the peninsula’s beauty that it is far from the only must-see destination around. Very close to Arnarstapi is the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs, huge towers of lava that from a distance look like a fortress.

Vatnshellir and Sönghellir and two nearby lava caves (the former of which can only be entered on a guided tour). There is also a beautiful cleft in a mountainside called Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge that it is possible to climb into.

Though a little further away, on the north of the peninsula, Kirkjufell mountain is also a wonderful site to behold.

Kerið is a volcanic crater lake in the Grímsnes area of South Iceland. It is close to the three major sites that comprise Iceland’s world-famous Golden Circle sightseeing route and thus makes for the perfect detour for those on visiting these landmarks.

Kerid and the Golden Circle

The Golden Circle is Iceland’s most popular tourist route. Its three main highlights are Gullfoss, or the ‘Golden Waterfall’; the Haukadalur Geothermal Valley, with its many springs and geysers; and Þingvellir National Park, the only UNESCO World Heritage Site on Iceland’s mainland and the birthplace of the country’s parliament.

There are several tour operators who offer trips to the Golden Circle. Many of those define their tours from others with extra stops, and Kerið crater is the most popular of these. It is approximately 40 minutes drive from Þingvellir and Haukadalur in different directions, providing visitors with two routes by which they can return to Reykjavík.

If travelling to Kerið crater alone, please be aware that there is a small entrance fee, of 400 ISK (about two Euros, or three US dollars). This is only to help the landowners preserve and protect the crater; after all, it is on privately owned land.

Other sites you may want to detour on when travelling the Golden Circle are the Sólheimar ecovillage, the Fontana Spa in Laugarvatn, the Secret Lagoon in Flúðir, and the Friðheimar tomato and horse farm.

Geology of Kerid

Kerið is approximately three thousand years old, making it roughly half the age of most volcanic calderas found in Iceland. This is the major reason as to why Kerið’s slopes are red in colour, rather than a volcanic black; the iron deposits are, geologically speaking, fresh.

This vivid redness is part of the appeal of visiting this crater. The crimson rocks contrast dramatically with their surroundings, particularly the intense azure colour of the waters within the crater lake, and the verdant bursts of vegetation.

Kerið is approximately 55 metres (180 feet) deep, 170 metres (558 feet) wide and 270 meters (886 feet) in circumference. It is possible to take a path right to the crater’s edge, to fully encircle it, and to descend down to the pristine waters of the crater lake.

Many crater lakes can be found in nearby, a region known as Iceland's Western Volcanic Zone. The area surrounding it is of barren, stark lava fields, further illustrating the volcanism of the region.

Scientists believe that Kerið was once a cone-shaped volcano. Upon eruption, it is widely believed that the volcano depleted its magma reserve, causing the foundation to fall in upon itself and result in the formation it has today. Of course, this was two thousand years before settlement, so no one is quite certain.

At some point in the centuries following the collapse, Kerið crater filled with water. The resulting lake is between seven and fourteen metres deep, depending on the time of year and the amount of rainfall.

The reason why the lake is so vividly coloured is that of the minerals from the rocks, seeping into and dyeing the water the aquamarine colour for which it is renowned.

Kirkjufell, or 'Church Mountain', is a distinctly shaped peak found on the north shore of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula, only a short distance away from the town of Grundarfjörður. It is often called ‘the most photographed mountain in Iceland’, due to its dramatic formation and perfect coastal location.

Kirkjufell takes its name from its resemblance to a church steeple, sharpened at the top with long curved sides. From other angles, the mountain has been compared to a witch’s hat or even a freshly scooped ice cream.

Photography at Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall

Peaking at 463 metres, 1519 feet, Kirkjufell is an impressive landmark. Throughout the centuries, Kirkjufell’s striking slopes have acted as a visual landmark for seafarers and travellers. More recently, it has attracted amateur and professional photographers alike.

Within walking distance from Kirkjufell is the serene and perfectly located waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss, or 'Church Mountain Falls', an excellent subject for photographers who can easily frame the mountain in the background. Despite its relatively diminutive height, Kirkjufellsfoss’ three-steps, gentle flow, and dramatic differences between seasons make it as impressive as some of Iceland’s larger waterfalls.

At the base of the mountain, visitors will also be able to find a lake; on calm and clear days, this lake reflects a perfect mirror image of Kirkjufell, only adding to the fantastic photo opportunities around this area.

On top of that, the colours of Kirkjufell change with the passing seasons; the summer sees it a lush green, full of life, whilst the winter months scar the mountain’s face with a mask of barren brown and white. Of course, it is more impressive under the midnight sun in the weeks surrounding the June equinox, and under the northern lights, best seen between September and April.

Fans of the HBO series Game of Thrones will recognise Kirkjufell as a shooting location from Season 7 of Game of Thrones. The mountain is showcased from the scenes ‘North beyond the Wall’ when Jon Snow, The Hound and Jorah Mormont, amongst others, brave the wilderness in hopes of catching an undead wight.

Having seen it in a vision, The Hound acknowledges Kirkjufell as “[...] the mountain like an arrowhead”, and the events that happen beneath it are some of the show’s most dramatic.

Hiking Kirkjufell

There is a fairly steep trail to the top of Kirkjufell, from where there are magnificent panoramas of the surrounding fields, coastlines and rivers. The mountain takes roughly an hour and a half to ascend, with another one and a half hours needed to get back to the bottom.

Given the steep elevation and treacherous trail, you should only hike Kirkjufell if you are a very experienced and confident mountain climber, preferably in the company of an expert guide. Sadly, there have been three fatal accidents on the mountain, most recently in 2018.

Getting to Kirkjufell

Kirkjufell is extremely close to Grundarfjörður, a small town on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, which is just over two hours drive from Iceland's capital city, Reykjavík. From Grundarfjörður, one travels a few minutes west down Route Snaefellsnesvegur 54 to the base of Kirkjufell. Visitors have plenty of parking space to choose from, all free of charge.

Snæfellsjökull National Park is found on the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and is one of three National Parks in Iceland. It is named after its crowning glacier and volcano.

Established in 2001, it is neither the oldest nor the largest National Park; those honours go to Þingvellir and Vatnajökull respectively. Within its borders, however, it has a wealth of sites for visitors to enjoy.

Features in Snæfellsjökull National Park

Snæfellsjökull National Park’s main feature is obviously the sub-glacial volcano Snæfellsjökull. This twin-peaked phenomenon is at the tip of the peninsula, and visible across Faxaflói Bay from Reykjavík on clear days.

It has inspired artists and writers for centuries. Most famously, it was the primary setting for the Jules Verne novel ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’ and the Halldór Laxness novel ‘Christianity Beneath the Glacier’. Beyond its inspiration to artists, the site also provides adventure to thrill-seekers; it is a popular place for both glacier hiking and super jeep tours.

Another feature within the National Park is the Buðahraun lava field, which encircles the glacier. This moss-coated terrain gives the area a haunting, otherworldly air, especially when grey or snow-coated in the winter months. 

The coastline is also worthy of some time sightseeing; the beaches of Djúpalónssandur and Skarðsvík have fascinating geology, beautiful seascapes, and interesting histories. The Lóndrangar basalt fortress, however, is perhaps the most dramatic and picturesque example.

A final feature of the National Park is its lava caves. While most of these are inaccessible, you can take tours into Vatnshellir throughout summer.

Features Around Snæfellsjökull National Park 

Snæfellsjökull National Park is adjacent to Arnarstapi and Hellnar on its south, and Hellissandur and Ríf on its north, all historic fishing villages that have managed to preserve the old culture of the peninsula when it was Iceland’s trading hub. All four of these settlements have options for accommodation.

Within an hour of driving, it is possible to reach many other sites of Snæfellsnes. These include the second most defining mountain on the peninsula, Mount Kirkjufell; Ytri Tunga, a seal-watching beach; and Rauðfeldsgjá, a mightily impressive gorge that slices into a mountainside.

Credit: Wikimedia, Creative Commons. Photo by Kkaefer.

Faxi is a wide, serene waterfall in South Iceland. It can be found in the Tungufljót River.

Faxi and the Golden Circle

Faxi falls is approximately twelve kilometres (seven miles) away from Gullfoss and Geysir, two incredibly popular attractions on the Golden Circle. It is thus easy to detour from these for one extra attraction, and extend a day out.

Some guided Golden Circle tours also promise an extra stop here.

Gullfoss, otherwise known as the Golden Waterfall, is 32 metres (105 feet) tall, falling in two tiers into a beautiful canyon. It is fed by the Hvíta River, which is one of the most popular rivers for rafting in the country, accessible for novices.

Though more powerful and dramatic than Faxi, it has less of its serenity, and there are usually much bigger crowds at Gullfoss.

Geysir, meanwhile, is a geothermal area that, as its name suggests, is home to geysers. The most active of these, Strokkur, erupts to heights of up to forty metres (131 feet) every ten minutes or so.

Geysir itself has been inactive for the past few years, only going off sporadically. The area is also home to many fumaroles, hot-springs and mud-pits.

The final site of the Golden Circle, Þingvellir National Park, is a little further away, but still well worth the visit. This location sits directly between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, in the Mid-Atlantic Rift, and is an oasis of beautiful lava landscapes, forest and crystal clear streams.

This location is also a historical centre, being home to the original site of the world’s longest-running parliament. Icelanders formed it here in 930 AD, before much of the rest of Europe had even starting thinking about representative democracies.

The Golden Circle is as close to an essential-Icelandic experience there is, and Faxi is a perfect addition to extend the day.

Activities at Faxi

Photo Credit: Callie Reed

Hiking through the countryside around Faxi waterfall is a pleasure. Many Icelandic horses and a wealth of birdlife can be expected in summer. The area also draws those who enjoy salmon fishing, and the falls is pregnant with them.

Although it is not particularly rapid, kayaking and rafting are banned here. As mentioned, Hvíta is the rafting river of the area.

A restaurant stands on site, where guests can enjoy lunch with a beautiful view.

Other detours from the Golden Circle

The Golden Circle only takes approximately half a day to traverse if travelling from Reykjavík. There are thus many sites, alongside Faxi, that visitors could add to their sightseeing journey if travelling alone.

Those seeking relaxation and rejuvenation could enjoy the Fontana Spa at Laugarvatn, or else the secret lagoon at  Flúðir. Those interest in culture could see the eco village Sólheimar, the historical settlement of Skálholt or else the greenhouses and horses at Friðheimar.

There are also many activities to be had in the area, such as snorkelling in Silfra, snowmobiling on Langjökull, or river-rafting (in summer).

A comprehensive list of detours can be found on this site.

The Lóndrangar basalt cliffs are amongst the many geological wonders of the Snæfellnes peninsula.

Geology of Lóndrangar

Once a volcanic crater, all that remains after aeons of ocean battering are two great pillars upon a cliff, one 75 metres (246 ft) high and the other 61 metres (200 ft).

Their dramatic scale has earned this incredible formation the nickname ‘the rocky castle.’

The cliffs can be accessed easily from the Visitor’s Centre, through fields of mossy lava, but they can also be seen from the sea. Surfing is relatively popular in the area and doing so in the shadows of these great peaks only adds to the experience.

Folklore of Lóndrangar

The surrounding lands are steeped in folklore; farmers have never made use of the fields around the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs due to the elves that are rumoured to live there.

Nearby, at Þúfubjarg, another cliff on the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula, it was said that the poet Kolbeinn Jöklaskáld met the devil and struck a deal with him.

Djúpalónssandur is an arched-shaped bay of dark cliffs and black sand, located on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland. 

History & Monuments 

The location was once home to a prosperous fishing village, similar to other abandoned hamlets and ports of the area such as Búðir and Hellnar. These thrived back when the Snæfellsnes Peninsula functioned as one of the most active trading posts of the island, but now are simply centres for tourism.

Fascinating remnants of this period are found in the form of four ancient lifting stones that still occupy the beach. The stones range in weight from 23 kg (50 lbs) to 155 kg (342 lbs) and were used to test the strength of fishermen. Their names are Amlóði (useless), Hálfdrættingur (weakling), Hálfsterkur (half-strong) and Fullsterkur (full-strong). Even today, you can see how you would have fared working on Iceland's dangerous seas by trying your luck at lifting these stones.

In 1948, the English trawler Epine GY 7 from Grimsby shipwrecked on the shore, with fourteen dead and five survivors. The rusty iron remains of the vessel remain scattered on the beach, now protected as a monument to those who perished. 

Environment & Surroundings

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula boasts countless natural wonders, where locals and travellers both flock on a daily basis to enjoy the unique landscape and stunning coastlines. Djúpalónssandur’s black pebble beach is particularly stunning with its rocky coastal lava formations, which include a large lava rock with a hole in the middle through which you can directly spot the Snæfellsjökull glacier volcano. 

Behind the rocks are two freshwater lagoons called Djúpulón and Svörtulón, with the former serving as the namesake of the bay. Though believed in olden times to be bottomless, the water bodies were later revealed to reach the depth of just five metres.

Lagoons such as these are held in high regard amongst the Icelandic people, and Svörtulón is thought to possess healing properties, especially after having been blessed by Bishop Guðmundur góði ('the good') in the late 1100s. 

A natural monument of the area is Söngklettur, or “singing rock”, a large lava rock with a reddish hue that resembles an elfish church. Other rock formations of folklorish appeal rest close by, including the alleged trolls-turned-to-stone Kerling and Lóndrangar. 

Warning

When visiting Djúpalónssandur, take heed that these are treacherous waters and the Atlantic Ocean’s powerful suction can easily carry you out to sea. This beach is not one for wading, but enjoying from a safe distance, especially if the weather is stormy. 

The video below shows the power and shocking speed of sneaker waves that occur at locations such as Djúpalónssandur and Reynisfjara in the south.

The glistening pebbles that make up the beach known as Djúpalónsperlur, or “pearls of the deep lagoon”, are gorgeous to look at and might seem appealing to stone collectors, but they are protected by law and should not be removed from the area by visitors.

Efstidalur is a farm that holds a hotel, cafe, and restaurant.

Facilities at Efstidalur

Efstidalur is primarily a dairy farm, run by four siblings and their families; it has been in their family for generations. Recently, it has become more focused on tourism, with people coming to see horses and enjoy the facilities.

With both a restaurant and ice cream barn, it is a perfect place to stop for refreshment. Efstidalur is the embodiment of ‘farm-to-table’ living, with the meat, dairy and vegetables either grown here or nearby.

There is also a hotel on site, with everything from twin to family rooms. The guests will have access to a hot tub, and are welcome to play with the dogs, horses and cows that make Efstidalur their home.

The hotel has beautiful views over the surrounding farmlands and mountains.

Horses can be rented from the farm for those who want to roam the idyllic countryside in an unconventional way.

Those interested in Icelandic agriculture can learn here about how farms survived the brutal Icelandic climate (to say nothing of the regular eruptions) and how national food items such as Skyr yoghurt is produced.

Sites surrounding Efstidalur

Located on the Golden Circle route, Efstidalur is within easy reach of some of the country’s most popular sites. These include Gullfoss, the iconic waterfall, Geysir, the geyser which leant all others their name, and Þingvellir National Park, a site of historic and geological wonder.

Those who want to dip into a pool can do so at Laugarvatn and Flúðir, for the Fontana Spa and Secret Lagoon respectively.

For those self-driving this tourist trail, therefore, Efstidalur is a great place to stop for a snack, meal, horseback ride, or just for a greeting with some gorgeous animals.

Credit: Wikimedia, Creative Commons. Photo by pjt56.

Ytri Tunga is a beach by a farm of the same name on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Unlike many of the beaches in Iceland, Ytri Tunga has golden sand, rather than black.

Seal Watching at Ytri Tunga

Alongside Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and the Vatnsnes Peninsula, Ytri Tunga is the most reliable place in Iceland to see seals.

Just offshore, on some rocks protruding from the water, at least a few individuals from the local colony can be seen hauling out all throughout the year. The best time to see them, however, is in the summer months. 

The seals that haul out here are Harbour Seals, one of the two common species found in Iceland. The other is the Grey Seal. In spite of what many think, Iceland no longer is home to walruses, although they are spotted in the Westfjords on rare occasions. Other visiting species include Hooded Seals and Ringed Seals.

Seals and Icelanders have had an interesting relationship over the past millennium. Seals, of course, were vital to their survival, due to their meaty bodies, fat for oil, and their waterproof hides, but also appeared in folklore as mysterious and beautiful selkies. Most other Nordic countries depicted Selkies as evil, but not Iceland.

More recently, seals have been killed for fashion and due to their impact on fisheries, as they often damage nets and equipment as they steal catches. Today, however, most Icelanders see seals as a beautiful addition to the culture of the nature rather than a pest or a pelt, and encourage visitors to enjoy viewing them.

On this site, you can find an article about seals in Iceland.

Getting to Ytri Tunga

Ytri Tunga is easy to reach from Reykjavík. By driving the Ring Road north, you will eventually reach the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula. Take the road along its south side, and about halfway down, you will come across a small sign pointing to Ytri Tunga Beach.

Here, there is a carpark, an information sign, and a small path leading to the viewing area. When watching the seals, it is important to give them space, as they can be dangerous if frightened, and to keep the noise respectfully low.

The South Coast of Iceland is one of the most popular parts of the country for travellers. South Iceland is lined with countless natural wonders including cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, glaciers and black sand beaches.

This incredible South Shore of Iceland stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east. It’s possible to incorporate a trip to The Golden Circle before heading South. This is another popular area with visitors to Iceland. Here you can see Þingvellir (or Thingvellir) National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, a volcanic crater called Kerið, and one of Iceland's biggest waterfalls; Gulfoss.

Highlights of the South Coast of Iceland

The South Coast offers an array of natural wonders that draw thousands of visitors each day.

The whole area is geologically very young, formed during the last Ice Age by the lava flows from numerous volcanoes in the area. The lowlands are surrounded by volcanically active mountains, notably Eyjafjallajökull and Hekla. If you stop at Hveragerði, you can visit the Quake 2008 exhibition where you can witness the split in the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.

In terms of culture in the South, it is rich and diverse. Most towns have amateur groups for theatre, poetry reading, and choir song. Community is a big part of an Icelander’s life and one of the key things that help them get through the winter months. The South was once home to the ancient bishop seat of Skálholt. Also, Iceland's most famous saga, Njal's Saga, takes place in the region.

When driving the South Coast route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. These falls which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean from these beautiful cascades. Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall. 

Skógar, which is home to Skogafoss waterfall, has a very interesting museum that discusses some of the nation’s history and culture. One of Iceland’s most famous hiking trails, Fímmvörðuháls, cuts through the area and is worth the walk if you have time.

A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull glacier, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the glacier tongue, Sólheimajökull.

This landscape has also been shaped by volcanic eruptions, although these were much more recent. Vast expanses of the black sand stretch from the Highlands to the sea, part of several glacial outwash plains that flood during a volcanic eruption. One such sandplain, Sólheimasandur, is home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck.

The Dyrhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.

Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, which is home to basalt columns and the Reynisdrangar rock formations. These pillars are said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun. 

Though beautiful, this area is notorious for its dangerous sneaker waves. Even on seemingly calm and still days, visitors should keep a distance from the shoreline. There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.

After passing through Vík you will cross the glacial sandplain of Skeiðarársandur before entering Vatnajökull National Park. Here you can see Vatnajokull Glacier, Iceland’s largest glacier. Many ice cave tours take place in Vatnajokull in the winter months.

Move on to the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve in the National Park. Here you can enjoy a diversity of landscapes and terrains. The area was considered a National Park in its own right because it was so beautiful.

Finally, you will approach the famous Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon, a deep lake that fills with icebergs as the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier slowly breaks down. Here there are plenty of options for boat tours that take you around the lagoon and up close to icebergs. A short distance from Jökulsárlón you will find the Diamond Beach, where blue icebergs wash on the black-sand beach, and another glacier lagoon called Fjallsárlón.

Geography, Nature & Wildlife

The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Ring Road (Route 1), which encircles Iceland. The area is made up of diverse landscapes; marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.

Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Reaching several hundred metres offshore, it provides a protective factor to the lowland as ocean waves crash upon it. This results in the South Shore being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shoreline.

Unlike most early Icelandic settlements, few of the communities in the south were based on fishing. The only town with a significant harbour in the south is Þorlákshöfn, where the ferry to the Westman Islands leaves. Some agriculture is found here, with farms nestled in the mountains, but because of the glacial floods, they are few and far between.

There are, however, plenty of hot springs in the area. The most famous is the Blue Lagoon Spa which is close to Keflavik airport. The lagoon formed as a result of the overflow from a nearby power plant.

However, there are lots of natural geothermal hot springs in more remote locations, where you can avoid the crowds and have a more natural experience. Some of the spots travellers recommend are Seljavallalaug, which is close to Skogar, and Reykjadalur, the Valley of Steam, which is close to Hveragerði.

The South region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey. 

You may be able to spot North Atlantic puffins nesting on the cliffs between May and August. In summer there are 2-3 times as many Arctic Tern as Icelanders so you are bound to spot some of them on your travels. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.  

Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.

In terms of sports; horse riding is popular, as is fishing, hiking, snorkelling, sightseeing and river rafting.