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Hallgrímskirkja is a Lutheran church, located on top of the Skólavörðuhæð hill in the centre of Reykjavík. At 74.5 metres (245 feet) tall, it is the largest church in Iceland, and its tower offers a spectacular panoramic view over the city.
History and Design
The church was designed by one of Iceland’s most renowned architects, Guðjón Samúelsson, who is said to have sought inspiration for his expressionistic design from elements of Icelandic nature.
These include glaciers, mountains and lava formations, particularly the hexagonal basalt columns that surround the waterfall Svartifoss in Skaftafell Nature Reserve, in Vatnajökull National Park. These have influenced the architecture of many structures in Iceland, as well as a whole host of other artistic projects.
It is also designed to resemble Thor’s hammer, with the handle facing up, as a nod to Iceland’s religious history.
The church took 41 years to build, with construction starting in 1945 and finishing in 1986. The leaders of the Church of Iceland wanted a building that would tower over the Catholic Church of Landakotskirkja, also designed by Samúelsson.
The large pipe organ inside Hallgrímskirkja, consisting of over 5000 pipes, was built by German Johannes Klais of Bonn and its construction was completed in December 1992.
Outside the church stands one of the most famous statues of one of Iceland’s most legendary children, Leifur Eiríksson, by American sculptor Alexander Stirling Calder; Eiríksson was a Norse explorer from Iceland who discovered the continent of North America in the year 1000, more than half a century before Christopher Columbus.
The statue was a gift from the United States in 1930, on the millennial anniversary of Iceland’s legislative body, the Alþingi, founded in Þingvellir in 930 AD. This was the world’s first democratically elected parliament and is now located in Reykjavík.
Culture
The church’s namesake is the Icelandic priest Hallgrímur Pétursson, a 17th-century poet and author of the Passion Hymns (Passíusálmar). These hymns are a vital part of Icelandic religious tradition and a staple of local literature, having been reprinted over 75 times since their original publishing in 1666.
The tower of the church is each day visited by hundreds of spectators who seek to enjoy its sweeping view of the capital. The observation tower can be accessed via a lift. There is a small fee to ascend above the clock, which goes towards the maintenance and running of the church.
Hallgrímskirkja counts as the most iconic landmark of the city of Reykjavík and is visible throughout most of the capital, challenged only by the concert hall and conference centre Harpa. It is a useful tool for navigating as visitors wander the streets.
It also serves as a focal meeting point for several cultural events, such as the annual gathering for watching the fireworks on New Year’s Eve. On this night, thousands of people set off dozens of fireworks in an ad-hoc, somewhat chaotic, yet unbelievably dazzling show.
In the lead-up to the night many shops sell protective goggles that are recommended for all observers, particularly children, due to a few incidents of debris falling from poorly aimed fireworks.
The small and charming Domkirkja church is the central Lutheran church in Iceland.
The Domkirkja is situated at Reykjavik's main public square, Austurvollur. This has been a church site since around the 13th century but the current church was built at the end of the 18th century.
The Sun Voyager (Sólfarið) is a large steel sculpture of a ship, located on the road Sæbraut, by the seaside of central Reykjavík. The work is one of the most visited sights in the capital, where people gather daily to gaze at the sun reflecting in the stainless steel of this remarkable monument.
Concept
The sculpture serves as an ode to the sun where it gracefully faces north across Faxaflói Bay. A popular misconception is that the Sun Voyager represents a Viking Ship. However, that is not quite the case. According to the sculptor’s vision, the piece rather accounts for a vessel of dreams; a premonition of the promise land, a plight for hope, pursuit, progress and freedom.
The sculptor is Jón Gunnar Árnason, who described his vision as one of the possible origins of the Icelandic people. When Jón visited the island of Bockholm in Finland, he claimed to have experienced an uncanny feeling that he’d been there before, many centuries ago.
The story goes that as ancient explorers from the centre of the known world set out to the four different cardinal directions, some set out towards the rising sun and made port at Mongolia. There, they settled down, until discovering the scribes of the explorers from the original journey who had ventured out west.
With the discovery of another fatherland, the people yet again set sail, but this time they headed back towards the setting sun. After having followed the sun for years, they eventually ended up on an island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.
When Jón was looking out to sea from Bockholm, he envisioned a vessel of dreams that would take him the rest of the way home; to the newfound promise land of the setting sun. He carved his vision into a granite rock by the sea, and thus the sun ship was born in his mind.
History
As the city of Reykjavík celebrated its 200-year anniversary in 1986, the town council of Vesturbær held a competition for works of exterior art. The Sun Voyager was deemed as the winner, and an aluminium prototype was donated to the city of Reykjavík.
In August 1990, the final piece was revealed at its current location by Sæbraut. Sadly, this was shortly after the death of Jón, who never got to see his masterpiece unveiled.
The site of the sculpture was considerably disputed. Many have pointed out the fallacy in the ship’s mast facing north, as opposed to west; to adhere to the original concept behind the artist’s vision.
Jón originally wanted the ship to be situated in the western part of Reykjavík, or by the coastline of Ánanaust. Eventually, and with the artist’s consent, the small headland on Sæbraut got chosen. Although the headland has no name, the artist comically referred to it as Jónsnes—or Jón’s Peninsula.
The Sun Voyager is often deemed the capital’s most famous artwork, but the city is full of sculptures, architectural masterpieces and street art, some sanctioned and some not, all of which is worth admiring.
Below, you can see a time-lapse video of a day in the life of the Sun Voyager sculpture.
Reykjavík Harbour refers to the Old Harbour and is located close to the centre of the city. It is the main port of departure for whale and puffin watching tours, as well as Northern Lights cruises.
The original purpose of the old harbour was for fisheries and trade; the consequences of the latter is why Reykjavík has such a disproportionately high population when compared to the rest of the country, and why it became the capital. These industries, while still important have given way to tourism in recent years.
Tours from Reykjavik Harbour
Many tours leave from Reykjavík Harbour, some going on throughout the year. The most notable of these are the whale-watching tours. Leaving multiple times a day, the vessels cruise into Faxaflói Bay, where an abundance of creatures dwell. Year-round, harbour porpoises and white-beaked dolphins reside, with the occasional Minke Whale that forgot to follow its migration route. In summer, these are much more abundant, alongside Humpback Whales.
It is also possible, but not common, to see Blue, Fin, Sei and Beaked Whales on these tours, as well as the magnificent Orca (which, unlike the others, prefers to visit in winter).
In summer, puffin watching tours are also available. These go to the isles of Lundy and Akurey, just offshore, where they nest in the thousands. These tours come with binoculars for a close-up view and can sometimes be added onto whale-watching excursions.
In winter, Northern Lights Cruises can offer some of the best opportunities to see the aurora borealis in complete peace and darkness. If visiting over New Year, it is also possible to take a boat out to see the incredible fireworks over Reykjavík.
Sea anglers can also take tours from the Old Harbour, and there are rod rentals on the pier for those who would rather stay routed on lands. Some of the nearby fish restaurants will be happy to cook up your catch for you.
Museums around Reykjavik Harbour
Not only do many tours leave from the Old Harbour, but it is close to many of the city’s most popular museums. The Reykjavík Maritime Museum, for example, is a perfect place to learn about Iceland’s seafaring history and the brave and brutal men and women who populated the island. The Whales of Iceland exhibition, meanwhile, allows guests to better understand the two dozen species of cetacean that call the waters here home.
These museums are all perfect for children, and many are discounted or free with a Reykjavík city card.
Views from Reykjavik Harbour
The views the Old Harbour are some of the best in Reykjavík. Across Faxaflói Bay, passed the docked sailing boats, are a wealth of natural landscapes. To the north is the flat-topped Mount Esja, the most popular hiking spot in the country, and in very clear weather, you’ll be able to see the stunning Snæfellsnes Peninsula and its crowning glacier.
Looking southward, you will also see the volcanic peaks of the Reykjanes Peninsula. Of course, within view are many of the landmarks of the capital, such as the Harpa Concert Hall.
Reykjavík City Hall (Ráðhús Reykjavíkur) is located on the banks of Tjörnin Pond in central Reykjavík.
The building houses the offices of the Reykjavík City Council and the mayor, the city’s tourist information centre, and a large, 3D map of Iceland.
History and Utility
The building was erected in 1992 after a design competition, won by the architecture practice of Studio Granda. The designers merged traditional Icelandic materials with modern Nordic design, but the building’s most distinct feature is arguably how it seems to rest on top of the body of water that is Tjörnin.
Since 2017, Reykjavík City Hall has also housed the capital’s official tourist information centre in which it partners with Guide to Iceland. Travellers can freely walk into the building to receive information about Iceland, book tours around the country, plan their travel routes, book accommodation and rental cars, or purchase a Reykjavík City Card, amongst a myriad of other travel services.
Throughout the years, the house has also hosted numerous art exhibitions, events and concerts.
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo by Sikeri
The Alþingi is Iceland’s parliament, and the longest-running ongoing representative assembly in the world. It is located in Reykjavík.
History
The Alþingi was formed in 930 AD, originally in Þingvellir National Park (now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and National Park for this fact, found on the Golden Circle). Its creation marked the end of the Settlement Era, and began the Commonwealth Era.
The Alþingi came to be when the 32 clans of settlers, who’d been arriving to Iceland since 874 AD and forming regional assemblies of their own, decided they would rather talk out their issues than fight over them.
Of course, as descendents of Vikings, a lot of fighting was still done when the parliament convened every year, as is recounted in many sagas, but usually, the parliament worked. Icelanders from around the country would come to learn what was happening elsewhere, promote the establishment of new laws, and settle disputes.
In many ways, this was an incredibly forward thinking institution for its time; it sought to keep power local, settled blood-feuds diplomatically, and even granted divorces to women who were unhappy in their marriages. In other ways, it was less so; witches, for example, were regularly tried and convicted at the Alþingi.
There was no ‘leader’, per se, but a Lawspeaker, who would record and read out the commonwealth’s rules from ‘the Law Rock’. One of these Lawspeakers, Snorri Sturluson, is regarded as one of the world’s most important medieval historians, but what is less known is that his tenure was embroiled in civil war, and led to the end of the Commonwealth Era as Iceland was absorbed into the Norwegian Empire.
The Alþing was still an important institution in the country, as the Norwegian kings cared little for the personal disputes of Icelanders, and ran for centuries unchanged. However, when the Kalmar Union collapsed and Denmark took over Iceland’s management, more and more power was taken from the locals.
In 1800, the Alþingi was temporarily dissolved by the Danish king, and replaced by a High Court in Reykjavík. However, a second royal decree reestablished it in 1843, although it too was now in Iceland’s capital.
Since then, the Alþingi has modernised with the times. Enfranchisement grew to incorporate everyone, regardless of income and gender, and eventually, first by achieving Home Rule then Independence, the shackles of Danish Rule were thrown off.
Alþingi Today
The Alþingi today can be found in downtown Reykjavík, next to the city’s cathedral (not to be confused with the much larger Hallgrímskirkja church). It is often photographed as the backdrop to protests, as Icelanders are a very politically active people. Most notable were the 1975 Women’s Day Off Protests and the 2007 Kitchenware Revolution, as well as the response to the Panama Papers in 2016.
Þingvellir is still visited on Golden Circle tours, where guests can learn all about this history while marvelling over beautiful nature and the edges of the tectonic plates. There are no buildings remaining (Icelanders would simply camp here while the parliament convened), but a few crumbling old walls, some submerged in water, reveal a little of what once went on here.
Harpa is Rekjavík’s premier concert hall and conference centre. Opened in 2011, its design was a collaboration between Danish-Icelandic artist Ólafur Elíasson, and the Danish firm Henning Larsen Architects. Today, it is a cultural centre of Reykjavík and one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.
History
The idea for a purpose-built concert hall in Reykjavík had been tossed around since the 1880s, but it wasn't until this millennium that it began to gain traction. Construction finally began in 2007, with Icelanders as blissfully unaware as the rest of us as to the problems that year would bring.
The wake of the financial crash of 2008 hit Iceland far harder than most other countries; its banks far overstretched themselves across Europe and ended up heavily indebting the people when they collapsed.
The future of Iceland’s economy was uncertain, especially when the government declared they would not bail out the banks nor pay off their debts, much to the chagrin of countries like the Netherlands and the UK.
In this tumultuous period, Harpa was left partially constructed, with no funds to finish it. The Icelandic populace was divided between having a half-finished construction site facing their downtown—a humiliating reminder of their country’s financial state—or spending money no-one was sure they had.
The Icelandic government, however, decided that it was the only building in the country that warranted being raised, in spite of the dubious future of the economy, and fully financed its completion.
When the European Court of Justice ruled that Iceland did not have to bend to the will of its debtors, the country was united in supporting it.
Architecture
Harpa won the prestigious Mies van de Rohe award in 2013, otherwise known as the European Prize for Contemporary Architecture, and is featured heavily in any tour of the city. Its structure is beautiful and unique; it has a facade of 714 glass panels, all of which are a different shape and built with an LED light that allows for shows whenever the sky is dark.
Ólafur Elíasson is world-renowned for his large-scale installation art, and for the influences he draws from the natural world. This is clearly exhibited in Harpa. The building reflects the basalt landscapes of Iceland and the dark-coloured glass creates beautiful effects with the natural light. Considering the midnight sun and aurora borealis, this can be quite spectacular.
Studio Olafur Eliasson employs 90 people, from architects to graphic designers, craftsmen to art historians. Based in Berlin, they work across the world, and are well-known for works such as London's 2007 Serpentine Gallery Pavillion and the annual event Life is Space.
Henning Larsen Architects are similarly successful. They have collaborated on the construction of dozens of buildings in over twenty countries, such as the Copenhagen Opera House and Uppsala Concert Hall in Sweden. They are currently working on the creation of thirteen buildings around the world, many of which they scored the opportunity to work on due to their competition-winning designs.
Harpa Today
Today, Harpa is one of the jewels in Reykjavík’s crown. The hall hosts exhibitions, concerts, cultural events, meetings, and festivals such as Airwaves, Sónar and the Reykjavík Fashion Festival. Home of the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and the offices of the Icelandic Opera, it is a centre of culture in Iceland’s capital.
Many internationally known artists from around the world have performed here, including people such as Eddie Izzard and Cyndi Lauper. It also regularly showcases native talent, such as Björk and Of Monsters and Men.
Below, you can see a video showing Harpa's construction:
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