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The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spa found on the Reykjanes Peninsula in southwest Iceland. It is the most popular attraction in Iceland drawing people from all across the world.
The Lagoon is just a fifteen-minute drive from Keflavík International Airport, or a thirty-minute drive from Reykjavík, located between the two. It is thus often visited straight after arrival to the country or right before departure.
There are few better ways to recharge after a long-flight or action-packed holiday.
History
The Blue Lagoon started as a pool of wastewater from the Svartsengi geothermal plant in 1976. The first person to bathe there was Valur Margeirsson in 1981. He was met with some resistance prior to taking the first dip as people thought he was mad for wanting to bath in a "blue mud pool". He and others soon began to notice the unusual but remarkable healing qualities of the azure waters.
Those with conditions such as psoriasis found the waters immediately soothing for their condition. News quickly spread, and by 1987, the first swimming facilities were officially opened.
Since then, the establishment has only grown, from an open pool with no surrounding buildings to a luxurious spa, research centre and hotel.
Today
The Blue Lagoon is considered to have such notable regenerative qualities because the water is rich in silica and sulphur. A research and development facility on site finds cures and remedies for skin ailments, and silica mud is available for free on the sides of the pool for guests to enjoy a facemask.
The temperature in the bathing and swimming area is very comfortable, averaging 37–39° C (98–102° F). The Blue Lagoon also boasts the LAVA Restaurant, the Blue Café and the Lagoon Spa: you can thus enjoy cocktails, health products, delicious meals and treatments such as massages without leaving the premises. Saunas, steam rooms and a small waterfall are also on site.
For all of these reasons and more, the Blue Lagoon is considered to be one of the most enjoyable and romantic spots in the country. It is surrounded by a plethora of fantastic volcanic landscapes, and the water itself is opaque and vividly blue. Rising pillars of steam only add to the spa’s fantastic ambience.
Things to Note
The Blue Lagoon Spa is open throughout the year, and popular in every season. Due to the fact it has a maximum capacity for the comfort of its guests, it is essential that you book several months in advance to ensure your space. The vast majority of the time, you will be turned away at the door without a reservation.
More reserved guests might want to be aware that it is a requirement to shower naked in public before entering the lagoon, to ensure that the highest hygiene standards are maintained. Though uncomfortable for some, nudity has little taboo in Icelandic culture, so worry not; no-one’s looking.
Those who are travelling on a budget will note that the Blue Lagoon is quite pricey. There are other smaller spas and pools that can be entered for less, such as the Fontana Spa, Secret Lagoon, Mývatn Nature Baths and Krauma Spa. Of course, natural hot pools are free to enter.
For more information, you can read articles on the best pools in the country and the best natural hot springs.
The Golden Circle is a 300 km route to the 3 most popular natural attractions in Iceland. The Golden Circle consists of Geysir, Gullfoss and Thingvellir.
See this for Golden circle tours.
Geysir area
Geysir is a geyser that gives its name to hot springs all over the world. But although Geysir itself is not active anymore the area features spectacular hot springs such as the powerful Strokkur (spouting a vast amount of water every 10 minutes, regularly about 15-20 meters into the air), Smidur and Litli-Strokkur.
Gullfoss waterfall
The 'Golden Waterfall', is the second part of the Golden Circle, and one of the most beautiful and powerful waterfalls in Iceland, plummeting 32 meters into the river gorge of the popular rafting river Hvita. It is Iocated about 10 km from Geysir.
Thingvellir national park
The largest attraction of the Golden Circle is Thingvellir National Park. The Icelandic parliament was founded there in 930 and remained until the year 1798.
Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important places to visit in Iceland, not just for its historical and cultural values, but for also its magnificent landscape.
Thingvellir is surrounded by a beautiful mountain and volcano range and is the site of a rift valley, where the tectonic plates meet, marking the crest of the Mid-Atlantic ridge.
Of particular note at Thingvellir are the magnificent Almannagja gorge, and the beautiful lake Thingvallavatn, the largest lake in Iceland. The popular Gjabakkahellir lava cave is also in the area.
The fissure Silfra is located by Thingvallavatn, Iceland's largest lake, and is famous for its clear waters and popular for diving and snorkeling, as you can literally swim between continents.
You can see tours to the Golden Circle here below ...
East Iceland is a vast area of incredible natural beauty, striking contrasts and fascinating history and culture. It is home to the remote and beautiful East Fjords, many small fishing villages, and an array of wildlife.
Services in East Iceland
East Iceland has just a few settlements with significant services. The main one of these, considered to be the capital of the region, is Egilsstaðir.
Egilsstaðir has restaurants, museums, shops, petrol stations and an array of accommodation options to suit all budgets. It is also home to an airport, meaning those with limited time or without a driving licence can easily reach it from Reykjavík.
Seyðisfjörður is another settlement of significance, with services for travellers, and a ferry that goes to Scandinavia. Djúpivogur is another wonderful town that visitors can refresh themselves at.
East Iceland is home to the Kárahnjúkar hydroelectric power station, which provides many of the towns with energy. The construction of this has led to a hot debate on Iceland’s ecological footprint and continues to do so, considering that it provides fuel to a controversial aluminium smelter nearby.
Nature of East Iceland
East Iceland is characterised by many fjords, surrounded by steep mountains. Fishing villages can be found nestled in most of them.
Inland, however, is just as beautiful, with much of it being a fertile agricultural area. Woodlands of birch can be found here, the most famous being Hallormsstaðaskógur, the largest forest in Iceland.
By this forest, and the town of Egilsstaðir, is the lake Lagarfljót, said to conceal a terrible monster.
Many rivers run through the district, and by their estuaries, colonies of seals may be found. The fertile waters also provide food to whales and dolphins, which can infrequently be seen from shore.
The impressive mountain Snӕfell, Iceland's highest freestanding peak, can be found in the east. Near here is the highland oasis Eyjabakkar, one of the world's largest nesting places for the pink-footed goose.
Reindeer roam the mountains of East Iceland, and this is the only place they can be found. Initially brought over for farming, the industry was never lucrative, and they have roamed free ever since.
Many migratory birds are found both inland and in the cliffs in summer, including the elusive puffin.
Vatnajökull, Europe's largest glacier, stretches to the borders of East Iceland and can be seen across much of it.
Culture of East Iceland
Of particular cultural note in the Fljótsdalshérað district is the cultural and historical centre Skriðuklaustur. In the Middle Ages, a monastery stood here, making it the region’s religious centre. In the 20th century, Icelandic author Gunnar Gunnarsson made it his home.
Gunnar wrote many masterpieces, including Aðventa, or The Good Shepherd, Svartfugl, or The Black Cliffs, Saga Borgaraettarinnar, or The Saga of the One-Eyed Guest, and the autobiographical novel cycle Fjallkirkjan, which has been translated under different names, such as The Church on the Mountain, Ships in the Sky and The Night and the Dream.
The culture of the East today is largely defined by festivals. Seyðisfjörður hosts the annual music festival LungA. The settlement of Neskaupsstaður also hosts two highly popular annual festivals, Neistaflug and Eistnaflug.
West Iceland is home to the country’s capital city, Reykjavík, and an array of impressive natural sites. These include Europe's most powerful hot spring, Iceland's most significant lava tube, fascinating glaciers, beautiful waterfalls important historical sites and more. It has three main districts outside of the capital area: Borgarfjörður, the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula, and Breiðafjörður.
Though also in the west, the Westfjords and Reykjanes Peninsula are considered to be in separate regions.
The Capital Area
Iceland’s capital city is Reykjavík, a settlement of 120,000 people (over 200,000 in the Greater Reykjavík Area) that was founded in 870 AD by Ingólfur Arnarson; this makes it the country’s oldest inhabited area.
It is a hot spot of culture, with festivals such as Sónar, Airwaves and Secret Solstice, events such as Pride and Culture Nights, and countless museums and galleries. The city is also renowned for its vibrant live music, cabaret and drag scenes, its street art, many sculptures, and its delicious cuisine.
Its architecture is particularly of note, with impressive buildings such as Hallgrímskirkja Church and the Harpa Concert Hall.
Reykjavík is where most visitors base themselves and the point from which most tour leaves. There is a comprehensive guide to Reykjavík on this site.
Borgarfjörður
Borgarfjörður is the fjord north of Reykjavík, within which is a wealth of beautiful historical and natural sites. Reykholt, for example, is a tiny village where medieval historian and poet Snorri Sturluson, author of Snorra-Edda and Heimskringla, once lived. Borgarnes, the main village of Borgarfjörður, is one of Iceland’s earliest towns, and home to the fascinating Settlement Centre.
In terms of nature, Borgarfjörður is home to the second highest waterfall in the country, Glymur. Other beautiful waterfalls include the magical and peaceful Hraunfossar and the raging rapids of Barnafoss which lie only a stone's throw apart. The area is also home to the longest lava cave in the country, Viðgelmir, the highest flowing hot spring in Europe, Deildartunghver, and just inland is Iceland’s second biggest glacier, Langjökull.
Snӕfellsnes
The Snӕfellsnes peninsula is a marvellous stretch of land in west Iceland. It is home to a unique mountain ridge with the majestic Snӕfellsjokull glacier and National Park at its westernmost point.
The region is often called Iceland in miniature due to its diverse sites, which include beautiful mountains such as Kirkjufell, geological wonders such as the Gerðuberg cliffs, and coastal formations such as Lóndrangar rock pinnacles.
Breiðafjörður
Breiðafjörður is the fjord that separates the Westfjords from the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula. It is a natural reserve with countless small islands and home to thousands of birds, including puffins.
The inner part of Breiðafjörður is the old farm site Eiriksstadir, the home of Eric the Red, the first European to land in Greenland, in the year 984 AD. His son was Leif Ericsson, the first European to land in America, in the year 1000.
Reykjavík is the capital of Iceland and the northernmost capital of any sovereign state in the world.
Despite a small population (approximately 120,000, with just over 200,000 in the Greater Reykjavík area), it is a vibrant city that draws an ever increasing number of visitors every year. It is the financial, cultural and political centre of Iceland, and has a reputation of being one of the cleanest and safest cities in the world.
Geography
The city of Reykjavík is located in southwest Iceland by Faxaflói Bay. Throughout the ages, the landscape has been shaped by glaciers, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and the area is geothermal; after all, its name translates to ‘Smoky Bay’.
Much of the current city area was subglacial during the Ice Age, with the glacier reaching as far as the Álftanes peninsula, while other areas lay under the sea. After the end of the Ice Age, the land rose as the glaciers drifted away, and it began to take on its present form.
The coastline of Reykjavík is set with peninsulas, coves, straits and islands, most notably the island of Viðey, and seabirds and whales frequent the shores. The mountain ring as seen from the shore is particularly beautiful.
Mount Esjan is the highest mountain in the vicinity of Reykjavík and the most distinctive feature of the coastline. This majestic summit is also highly popular amongst hikers and climbers. Other notable mountains that can be seen from the seaside are Akrafjall and Skarðsheiði.
On clear days, one may even see as far to the legendary Snæfellsjökull glacier, at the end of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
The largest river to run through the city is Elliðaá in Elliðaárdalur valley, which is also one of Iceland’s best rivers for salmon fishing.
Transportation
There are no trains or trams in Iceland, but most people travel by car. The city also operates a bus system. There are two major harbours in town, the old harbour in the centre and Sundahöfn in the east.
The domestic Reykjavík Airport is located at Vatnsmýrin, not far from the city centre and close to the hill Öskjuhlíð and the restaurant, vantage point and exhibition centre Perlan. The international Keflavík Airport at Miðnesheiði heath then lies around 50 kilometres (31 miles) from the city.
Cars, jeeps and bicycles can be readily rented in the city and many organized tours are also being offered. It is, however, quite easy to walk between the major sites.
What to See & Do in Reykjavik
The local arts scene is strong in Iceland, with annual events and festivals, many of artists from which have hit the international stage.
Major events taking place in Reykjavík include Iceland Airwaves, Reykjavík Pride, RIFF (The Reykjavík International Film Festival), The Reykjavík Literature Festival, Culture Night, the Reykjavík Arts Festival, Food & Fun, the Reykjavík Fashion Festival and the Sónar music festival.
Amongst the famous people from Reykjavík are musicians like Björk Guðmundsdóttir and Sigur Rós, and writers Halldór Laxness (born on the main street, Laugavegur) and Arnaldur Indriðason.
Those eager to soak up the local culture should visit the city’s many museums, exhibitions and galleries, and check out live music at the cafés, bars, and concert venues dotted around. You could look at the programmes of what’s on at the Harpa music hall or the theatres, or else plan a few hours at the lighthouse at Grótta, the shopping street of Laugavegur, or the old harbour and the flea market.
You could even book a bird- and whale watching tour or a visit to Viðey island. There are a lot of things to do and the possibilities are endless.
Make sure to visit the public square of Austurvöllur, one of the city’s most popular gathering places, where you’ll also find the national parliament, the Alþingi, as well as the state church, a statue of independence hero Jón Sigurðsson, cafés, bars and restaurants.
Austurvöllur was central in the protests following the banking collapse of 2008, along with Lækjargata, home to the House of Government. You are also not likely to miss the great church of Hallgrímskirkja that towers over the city from the hill of Skólavörðuholt, from which you’ll get a great view of the city.
Try a walk by the city pond, Tjörnin, to greet the many birds that frequent the area and to visit the city hall, stationed by its banks. A beautiful park lies by the pond, ideal for a nice walk, and sometimes concerts get held there.
Further off is the campus of the University of Iceland, the Nordic house and the Vatnsmýrin wetland, a particularly pleasant place, but be mindful to not disturb the wildlife there by keeping to the pathways.
For a nice swim on a warm day, we particularly recommend Nauthólsvík beach, which is heated with geothermal water. Those who love a dip should also visit the Laugardalur valley, home to one of the city’s best swimming pools, which sits a short walk away from Ásmundarsafn gallery, a beautiful botanical garden and a domestic zoo.
A walk by the Ægissíða beach, with its old fishing sheds, in the west part of Reykjavík also holds a particular charm. From there, you can see all the way to president’s house at Bessastaðir, which is also a historical site in its own right, having been the educational centre of Iceland for centuries.
Another place that offers one of the city’s best views is Perlan, up on Öskjuhlíð hill. The hill itself is a popular place to spend a few hours, with over 176,000 trees and great opportunities for walking and cycling. Perlan also has and observation deck with great views, a café and an exhibition centre.
Furthermore, the city is a short drive from many of Iceland’s major attractions, most famously the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. In close vicinity you’ll also find the Heiðmörk preservation area, a favourite local site of the people of Reykjavík, as well as the Blue Mountains, one of Iceland’s best skiing venues.
Finally, we’d like to stress that these are only some suggestions of the many things you might check out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose to do, we hope you’ll be able to make the most of your visit and we wish you a pleasant stay in our capital.
Akureyri, ‘The Capital of the North’ is a town in the fjord Eyjafjörður in North Iceland. It lies just 100 kilometres (62 miles) away from the Arctic Circle. It is Iceland’s second-largest urban area with a population of about 17,800.
Economy
Akureyri is an important fishing centre and port, but in the last few years, tourism, industry, higher education and services have become the fastest growing sectors of the economy.
An airport is located about three kilometres (two miles) from the centre and a large number of cruise ships lay anchor in its busy harbour.
Traditionally Akureyri has survived on fisheries and some of Iceland’s largest fishing companies such as Samherji, have their headquarters there. Other large companies are also based here, such as Vifilfell hf, the largest brewery in Iceland, which produces the famous Kaldi beer.
FSA/Akureyri Hospital is a significant employer in the area and is one of two major hospitals in Iceland.
Akureyri has excellent facilities for travellers and is located a short drive from many of Iceland’s top natural, cultural and historical attractions. Additionally, one of Iceland's best skiing sites is found by Akureyri, at Hlíðarfjall and it is the location for Ak Extreme, an annual skiing and snowboarding festival.
Nature & Landscape
Akureyri is surrounded by mountains, the highest one being Kerling at 1,538 metres (5,064 feet). The area around it has rich agriculture and a beautiful mountain ring.
The island of Hrísey sits in the middle of Eyjafjörður and Grímsey Island, which straddles the Arctic Circle; both islands belong to the municipality of Akureyri. Hrísey is often called 'The Pearl of Eyjafjörður’ and Grímsey 'The Pearl of the Arctic', and these beautiful and peaceful islands are highly popular with travellers.
Both are also home to many puffins.
Furthermore, Akureyri is a very popular place to stay due to its proximity to the Lake Mývatn. This is one of the country’s most popular destinations, due to its incredible natural beauty, intense geothermal activity, a wealth of birdlife and many surrounding sites, including Dettifoss waterfall, the most powerful waterfall in Europe.
It is also close to the seal-watching capital of Iceland, Hvammstangi, on the Vatnsnes Peninsula. This peninsula is also home to the captivating ‘elephant rock’ formation, called Hvítserkur.
The convenience of Akureyri is added to by its position on the Icelandic Ring Road, a route that encircles the country, passing almost every major destination. This means that reaching it from Reykjavík is little trouble, even in winter and the journey takes just under five hours.
History & Culture
During World War II, Akureyri was an essential site for the Allies and the town grew considerably after the war, as people increasingly moved to urban areas.
Akureyri has an active cultural scene, with several bars and renowned restaurants as well as frequent concerts and shows. During the summer there are several notable festivals in Akureyri and its surroundings such as the Vaka Folk festival.
Sites of interest in Akureyri include the brand-new Hof concert hall, many museums and the Christmas house which is open all year round.
The city boasts the world's northernmost botanical gardens which are located close to the swimming pool which is worth a visit.
Akureyrarkirkja church sits in a prized position halfway up the hill upon which most of the city is built. It was completed in 1940 and was designed by one of Iceland's most famous architects, Guðjón Samúelsson, who also was also responsible for arguably Iceland's most famous church, Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavík.
Jökulsárlón is Iceland’s most famous glacier lagoon. Conveniently located in the southeast by Route 1, about halfway between the Skaftafell Nature Reserve and Höfn, it is a popular stop for those travelling along the South Coast or around the Ring Road of the country.
Geography
As a glacier lagoon, Jökulsárlón is a lake that is filled with the meltwater from an outlet glacier. In this case, it is Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Europe’s largest ice cap, Vatnajökull.
It stands out, however, due to the fact that it also fills with icebergs breaking from the glacier, some of which tower several stories high.
These icebergs, other than their scale, are notable for their colouration. Although they are, as expected, largely white, most are also dyed electric blue in part, with black streaks of ash from eruptions centuries past.
When the icebergs finally make it across the lagoon, they either drift out to sea or wash up on the nearby shore. Because of the way they glisten against the black sands of Breiðamerkursandur, this area has been nicknamed ‘the Diamond Beach’.
In spite of being a rather recent formation, Jökulsárlón is the deepest lake in the country, with depths of 248 metres (814 feet). With a surface area of 18 square kilometres (7 square miles), it is also growing to be one of the largest.
History
Jökulsárlón has not been around since Iceland’s settlement; it only formed around 1935. This was due to rapidly rising temperatures in the country from the turn of the twentieth century; since 1920, Breiðamerkurjökull has been shrinking at a dramatic rate, and the lagoon has begun to fill its space.
Today, the expansion of Jökulsárlón is accelerating. In 1975, it had less than half its current surface area.
In the relatively near future, it is expected that the lagoon will continue to grow until it becomes a large, deep fjord.
Though a dark omen for Iceland’s glaciers and ice caps in general, the retreat of Breiðamerkurjökull has resulted in an incredibly beautiful, if temporary, site. This has not been overlooked by Hollywood.
Jökulsárlón has been featured in the James Bond films A View to Kill in 1985 and Die Another Day in 2002, 2001’s Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and 2005’s Batman Begins.
In 2017, Jökulsárlón was enveloped into the Vatnajökull National Park, thus it is now fully protected by Icelandic law.
Wildlife
Because of the wealth of herring and capelin that the tides bring into the lagoon, Jökulsárlón is somewhat of a hot-spot for Iceland’s wildlife.
In summer, it is a nesting site for Arctic Terns; stay well away from their nesting area, as these birds are notorious for the fierceness with which they protect their eggs, dive-bombing the heads of any they see as a threat. Skuas also nest on the lake’s shores in this season.
Seals can be reliably spotted here throughout the year, swimming amongst or else hauling out on the icebergs. Jökulsárlón provides them with a safe haven to rest and socialise, especially considering the waters of southeast Iceland are renowned for their population of orcas.
Hvíta is a glacier river in Arnessysla in South Iceland. It is one of the most popular rivers in Iceland for rafting, salmon fishing, and it is home to Iceland's most famous waterfall.
Gullfoss Waterfall
The river has its source in Hvítarvatn, by the roots of Langjökull. Many tributaries join it as it travels towards the ocean, making Gullfoss waterfall, which lays on its course, mightily powerful.
At 32 metres (105 feet) tall, it falls in two steps into a magnificent canyon. There are several viewing platforms around it, and a café and visitors centre a short distance away.
It can be seen in all seasons, with rainbows flying from its mists in summer and ice cladding the rocks around it in winter.
Rafting in Hvíta
Downstream from Gullfoss is the part of Hvíta that is most popular for kayaking, canoeing and rafting. These tours here are open to all skill sets, even beginners.
These tours are not only exhilarating but expose guests to beautiful nature and geology.
Vatnajökull glacier is the largest glacier in Europe, covering 8% of Iceland’s landmass.
It is the central feature of the Vatnajökull National park, found in the south west of Iceland, a popular spot for activities like glacier hiking from Skaftafell, boat tours in the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, and ice caving tours between November and March.
Facts about Vatnajokull
Vatnajökull has a surface area of approximately 8,100 square kilometres (3127 square miles); though it is rapidly shrinking due to climate change, its recession is not quite as advanced as at other glaciers, such as Langjökull and Mýrdalsjökull. In parts, it is a kilometre deep (over three thousand feet), and its average thickness is around half of that.
Vatnajökull also holds the tallest peak in Iceland beneath its ice; Hvannadalshnjúkur is 2,200 metres tall (7,218 feet). It also conceals some of the most active volcanoes in the country, the most notable being Grímsvötn, Öræfajökull and Bárðarbunga.
Volcanic activity in the region has occurred on and off throughout the centuries, and many geologists believe that several eruptions are overdue. If their calculations are correct, it would mean significant volcanic activity for Vatnajökull over the scope of the next half-century.
Depending on winds, this could result in worldwide consequences in terms of air-travel, agriculture and the general climate.
The glacier boasts over 30 outlet glaciers, which are channels of ice that flow out of ice caps but remain constrained on the sides of the valley. The major outlet glaciers of Vatnajökull include Dyngjujökull in the north, Breiðamerkurjökull, and Skeiðarárjökull to the south. To the west, one can find the outlet glaciers Síðujökull, Skaftárjökull and Tungnaárjökull.
Numerous rivers run out of Vatnajökull, making up some of the greatest glacial rivers in Iceland. The most notable are:
Tungnaá (west)
Köldukvísl (west)
Þjórsá (west)
Jökulsá á Fjöllum (north)
Skjálfandafljót (north)
Jökulsá á Brú (northeast)
Jökulsá í Fljótsdal (northeast)
Jökulsá í Lóni (south)
Hornafjarðarfljót (south)
Jökulsá á Breiðamerkursandi (south)
Skeiðará (south)
Núpsvötn (south)
Hverfisfljót (south)
Skaftá (south)
Vatnajokull National Park
Vatnajökull National Park was established in June 2008 and has slowly grown to include more and more areas. The park now covers an area of 14,141 square kilometres (5,460 square miles), 14% of the country. It is the second largest national park in Europe.
Rivers divide the highland plateau to the north of the park. The volcanic table mountain Herðubreið towers over this particular region, along with volcanoes Askja, Snæfell and Kverkfjöll.
The canyon Jökulsárgljúfur was carved out by glacial floods centuries ago. At the upper end of the canyon, you'll find Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe. Further north, the horseshoe-shaped canyon Ásbyrgi is believed to have formed when Óðinn's eight-legged horse, Sleipnir, stepped his foot down from the heavens.
East around Snæfell, one can find wetlands and ranges, home to roaming herds of wild reindeer and abundant birdlife. Steep mountain ridges make up the south side of Vatnajökull, where outlet glaciers crawl onto the lowlands. The sandy plains of Skeiðarársandur also lie to the south, and the glacial river Skeiðará runs through this vast desert.
One of Iceland's most visited landmarks in the National Park is the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, which sits at the base of the outlet glacier Breiðamerkurjökull. Here, large icebergs that have broken off the glacier float across a vast lake before ending up in the Atlantic Ocean, or washed ashore on the nearby Diamond Beach.
This is one of the best seal-watching spots in the country.
The Future of Vatnajokull
The volume of Vatnajökull reached its peak around 1930 but has since been in a steady process of decline. Because of rising levels of global temperature, Vatnajökull has on average lost about a metre (three feet) of its thickness annually over the past 15 years.
If temperature levels continue to rise, the glacier could be all but gone nearing the end of the next century, leaving only small ice caps on top of the highest mountain summits.
Efforts are being made to prevent what some say is the inevitable, with reforestation projects going on all around the glacier, a proven method of cooling the area. Time will tell how successful they are.
Vatnajokull and Jokulsarlon in Popular Culture
The beauty of Vatnajökull National Park has not gone unnoticed by those in film or television. Many famous scenes have been shot here, starting with James Bond: A View to Kill in 1985. Other notable films with scenes here include Batman Begins, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and James Bond: Die Another Day.
Most famously, however, many places in Vatnajökull have been used in the HBO Series Game of Thrones, north of the Wall. The Wall itself is constructed with CGI using shots of the glacier.
Mývatn is a beautiful lake with many small islands in the north of Iceland, the fourth largest lake in the country. Due to its serenity, birdlife and volcanism, the lake, including its surrounding area, is one of the most amazing natural attractions in the country.
Mývatn is, in fact, so beautiful that is was used as a site in the Game of Thrones franchise. In mid-winter it was used to represent the lands North of the Wall, namely Mance Raider’s Wildling camp.
Geology
Mývatn sits about an incredibly active geothermal area, giving it a unique and beautiful geology. After all, it is close to sites such as Krafla caldera, which contains the notorious Víti volcano, the name of which translates to ‘hell’.
Many of the islands here are thus pseudocraters, formed by steam explosions as magma rose beneath pockets of water, and many are bizarre basalt columns, rising vertically from the surface, formed by rapid cooling after an eruption.
The high amount of geothermal activity beneath Mývatn, of course, presents the opportunity for bathing in naturally heated waters. This is best done at the Mývatn Nature Baths, a beautiful establishment with serene waters, incredible views, and a reasonable entry fee.
Wildlife
Mývatn has some of the best bird-watching available in Iceland, although those seeking puffins will need to be at coastal cliffs such as those at Látrabjarg and Dyrhólaey, between May and September.
In fact, Mývatn has more species of duck than anywhere else in the world, with thirteen nesting species and many more visitors. Most popular (and common) amongst these is the harlequin duck sometimes referred to as the white-eyed diver after their unique white markings.
Mývatn’s surrounding vegetation and plentiful food make it a happy home for voles, mice and rats that have spread all over Iceland, providing tasty treats for Iceland’s only native land mammal, the Arctic Fox. Visitors, however, will have to keep a close eye out for these, as they are experts in camouflage.
In terms of flora, the most interesting plant life at Mývatn actually exists just beneath the surface of the water. Marimo are ‘moss balls’, bizarre spheres of fluffy green algae that are found in very few other places around the world, namely Japan (where they got their name), Scotland, Estonia and Australia.
Surrounding sites
Visitors to Mývatn often wish to spend more than just a single day exploring its many surrounding locations. Primary amongst these is Dimmuborgir, a lava field which truly reflects the dramatic consequences of a volcanism in Iceland. This area is steeped in folklore and is home to the thirteen ‘Santas’ of Iceland, the Yule Lads.
It was also here that many of the Game of Thrones scenes were shot such as Mance Rayder's wildling camp at Dimmuborgir and Grjótagjá cave, where Jon and Ygritte shared an evening together. Though this site can be admired from the shore, the water temperature is not monitored and can heat up very quickly, so visitors are asked not to take a dip.
Those with an interest in Iceland’s strange geothermal and geological sites should also check out the Skútustadagígar pseudo-craters and the aforementioned Víti crater and its surrounding lava field. There are also several geothermal hot spots around Krafla and the Námaskarð Pass which is a fascinating and primordial place.
Lake Mývatn is located on the Ring Road that fully encircles the country, making further sites easily reachable. To the west is the ‘Capital of the North’, Akureyri, a charming town with the highest population outside of the capital area.
To the east, you can find the largest waterfall in Iceland, Dettifoss which also happens to be the most powerful waterfall in Europe, and the incredible horseshoe-shaped canyon, Ásbyrgi. This feature was said to have formed by the stomping of one of the feet of Oðinn’s eight-legged horse as it leapt through the sky.
Dimmuborgir, or the Black Fortress, is a dramatic expanse of lava in the Lake Mývatn area. Steeped with folklore, it is one of the most popular destinations for travellers to north Iceland.
Geology of Dimmuborgir
Dimmuborgir was formed in an eruption that occurred in the area 2,300 years ago; the Lake Mývatn area is highly volcanic, as can be further seen in nearby locations such as the geothermal Námaskarð Pass, the hot spring cave Grjótagjá, and the dramatic Krafla fissure.
As lava flowed across the area, it passed over a lake, causing it to boil. This both quickened the cooling of the lava and caused pillars of steam to shatter parts of it. After it solidified, Dimmuborgir area became defined by large stacks of rock and many caves and caverns, caused by bubbles of intense steam.
As such, many have compared Dimmuborgir to a medieval castle, with its many hidden chambers and its rising towers.
Folklore of Dimmuborgir
In Icelandic culture, lava caves are allegedly the homes of the nation’s brutal and vile trolls. The most famous of these were the half-troll, half-ogre Grýla and her submissive husband Leppalúði. Grýla was renowned for her insatiable appetite for children, and her gigantic pet cat, that would eat children over the Christmas period for not getting any clothes (encouraging kids to finish their weaving, knitting and sewing chores before the season set in).
Grýla and Leppalúði had thirteen sons who lived in Dimmuborgir and are now known as the ‘Icelandic Santa Clauses’ or Yule Lads. On the thirteen nights before Christmas, these trolls come one by one to terrorise Icelanders, each with their own strategy after which they were named.
Sheep-Colt Clod, for example, would harass livestock; Skyr-Gobbler would steal and lick the house's supplies of yoghurt-like skyr; and Window-Peeper would stare into houses, looking for things to burgle.
Like most frightening Icelandic stories, the Yule Lads were most likely created to keep children from going out into the cold Icelandic winter nights, where many disappeared without a trace for centuries. As the nation modernised, they became mischievous tricksters rather than devilish monsters. Now, they have been ‘Americanised’; rather than traditional Icelandic garb, they wear Santa costumes, and although they still steal skyr, they now also bring gifts.
Due to Iceland’s remoteness and fondness for storytelling, the nation developed many unusual Christmas traditions.
During the Christianisation of Iceland, Dimmuborgir developed a new set of tales. Many began to believe, due to its starkness, that it was where Satan landed when cast from heaven, and where he created the catacombs to hell.
Dimmuborgir in pop culture
Dimmuborgir recently saw a surge in popularity, as it was featured on HBO’s Game of Thrones. In the series, it is where Mance Raider held his wildling army. It was shot here in winter.
The popular Norwegian black metal band Dimmu Borgir is also named after the area.
Húsavík, by Skjálfandi Bay in North Iceland, is a town of just over two thousand people. It is considered to be one of the best places in Europe for whale watching in the summer.
Whale Watching in Husavik
Húsavík is often nicknamed the whale watching capital of Europe, due to the fact that throughout the vast majority of summers, tour operators have 100% sighting rates.
Humpback Whales are the most common species in Skjálfandi Bay. These gentle giants are renowned for being possibly the most entertaining of the great whales to observe, due to the fact they always show their tail before a dive, and exhibit many other behaviours at the surface, such as breaching and fin slapping.
Other animals that reside within the bay include White Beaked Dolphins and Harbour Porpoises. It is not at all unheard of, however, for Fin and Blue Whales to be seen, nor Orcas or Belugas.
Many whale watching tours also include a puffin-watching component.
Other Activities in Husavik
Húsavík is home to the Húsavíkurkirkja church, a beautiful wooden structure built in 1907 and the civic museum for culture and biology, which amongst other things features a stuffed polar bear and ancient boats, bearing witness to the history of seafaring in Iceland.
There is also an Exploration Museum on the spirit of discovery, from early explorations to space missions.
Near to Húsavík is the Lake Mývatn area, a place of diverse, natural beauty, with a wealth of geological features. It is also close to the capital of the North, Akureyri.
In Húsavík you'll also find cute cafés and restaurants offering tasty treats, and you'll have a gorgeous view over the Skjálfandi Bay. There is a wealth of accommodation options available, from nice hotels to cabins and hostels.
History of Husavik
Húsavík means ‘the Bay of Houses’, as according to legend, it was settled before the official ‘settlement date’ of 874 AD.
Garðar Svavarsson was a Swede who wintered in Iceland in 870 AD. According to legend and Sagas, he left a man called Náttfari and two slaves to tend a farm here. It is said that the town was named after their houses.
Goðafoss waterfall is located in the river Skjálfandafljót in north Iceland, the fourth largest river in Iceland. It is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the country, falling from a height of 12 metres (39 feet) over a width of 30 metres (98 feet).
History of Goðafoss
The name Goðafoss means either waterfall of the gods or waterfall of the 'goði' (i.e. priest/ chieftain). The reason for this is its fascinating history.
When Iceland was first settled in the 9th and 10th Centuries, the vast majority (who were not slaves, at least) were Norwegians who followed the Old Norse religion, worshipping deities like Thor, Odin, Loki and Freya. However, after the Commonwealth was established in 930 AD, pressure to convert began to push from Christianising Europe.
By 1000 AD, it seemed that Norway would almost certainly invade if the country were to stand by their pagan beliefs. The issue was thus discussed at Þingvellir, where the parliament met once a year. The lawspeaker at the time, the Ásatrú priest (or goði) Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði, was given the responsibility to make the decision.
It is said he sat beneath a birch for a day and a night in silence, praying to his Old Gods for the right decision. Eventually, he emerged and said, for the good of the people, Christianity would be the official religion, but pagans could practice in private.
To symbolise his decision, he returned to his home in north Iceland and threw idols of the Old Gods into a beautiful waterfall. Since then, it would be known as Goðafoss.
Getting to Goðafoss
Goðafoss is located in north Iceland, on the Ring Road that fully encircles the country. It is considered part of the Diamond Circle sightseeing route.
This trail also takes visitors to the Lake Mývatn area, Dettifoss Waterfall, Ásbyrgi Canyon and the town of Húsavík.
Mývatn is a beautiful lake, filled with a wealth of birdlife, and it is renowned for it incredible surroundings, which include fortresses and of lava, geothermal areas, craters and basalt pillars. Dettifoss is another waterfall, and though it does not have the history of Goðafoss, it has much more power; it is, in fact, the most powerful waterfall in Europe.
Ásbyrgi Canyon, meanwhile, is also linked to the Old Norse Gods. Its perfect horseshoe shape was said to have been created by the stomping of one of the hoofs of the eight-legged steed of Odin. The final destination on the Diamond Circle is Húsavík, the best place for whale-watching in Iceland.
Outside of the Diamond Circle, Goðafoss, is easily reached by travelling for 45 minutes east by car from the capital of the north, Akureyri.
This is the largest settlement outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area and is a perfect place to stay for those travelling the circle around the country. It is a renowned cultural centre, with many museums, galleries and the world’s northernmost botanical gardens. Many tours depart from here.
Goðafoss can be reached throughout the year, although drivers in winter will want to be sure that they rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Skógafoss is one of Iceland’s biggest and most beautiful waterfalls with an astounding width of 25 meters (82 feet) and a drop of 60 meters (197 feet).
Due to the amount of spray the cascade produces, at least one rainbow is present any time the sun emerges from behind the clouds.
Located on the Skógá river, this mighty cascade is clearly visible from Route 1 and is an excellent place to stop and stretch the legs while travelling Iceland’s South Coast. The river below Skógafoss holds a large char and salmon population and is thus a favourite spot for fishermen in the summer.
The land underneath the waterfall is very flat, allowing visitors to walk right up to the wall of water. This will get you drenched, although, on a summer’s day, it can be quite tempting.
Skógafoss can also be viewed from the top as a steep staircase leads to an observational platform above the cascade. Many nesting seabirds can be found on the route up.
Geography
Skógafoss is located near the small village of Skógar, south of the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano. There you’ll find the Skógasafn folk museum, an open-air museum with both old wooden houses and turf houses, as well as a regional museum with various artefacts from this area.
A part of the Skógasafn Regional Museum is the Museum of Transportation, which showcases the history and evolution of transportation, communication and technologies in Iceland. There, you can see how this nation evolved from the age of the working horse to the digital communications of the 21st century.
The Skógasafn museum also includes a café and a museum shop, and in the village of Skógar, you will find both a hotel and a restaurant.
At the eastern side of Skógafoss, you will find one of Iceland’s most famed hiking routes; the Fimmvörðuháls pass. The 22 kilometre (14 miles) trail takes you along Skógá river, between two glaciers, Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull, before ending in the beautiful Þórsmörk valley.
Skógafoss is often visited alongside the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, which is just a little further along the South Coast. Both fall from cliffs of the same height, and while Skógafoss is much more powerful, Seljalandsfoss has a cave behind it, which means it can be fully encircled. It is also next to a much lesser known but still awe-inspiring waterfall, Gljúfrabúi.
Folklore
A gold ring is on display at the Skógasafn museum. According to legend, the ring is from a chest that was owned by Þrasi Þórólfsson, one of the first Viking settlers in the area, who by some accounts was a giant. Folklore states that before his death in 900 AD, Þrasi buried a chest filled with gold in a cave behind Skógafoss waterfall.
Many attempts were made to retrieve the chest after Þrasi’s death, and years later, locals managed to grasp a ring on the side of the chest. As they pulled, the ring broke off, and the treasure was lost forever. The ring was then given to the local church before it made its way to the museum.
Seljalandsfoss is a waterfall that can be fully encircled, situated on the South Coast of Iceland with a drop of 60 metres (200 feet).
Due to the waterfall’s close proximity to the Ring Road and impressive natural features, it is one the country's most famous and visited falls. Majestic and picturesque, it is one of the most photographed features in all of Iceland.
Geology and Surroundings
Seljalandsfoss waterfall, part of the river Seljalandsá, has its origins underneath the glacier Eyjafjallajökull. The volcano beneath this ice cap was the one that erupted in 2010 and caused havoc at airports across Europe.
The cascade of the falls is relatively narrow but falls from a tall cliff that once marked the country's coastline, the sea is now located across a stretch of lowlands and is visible from the site.
The most distinguishing feature of Seljalandsfoss is a pathway that stretches all the way around it. The cliffs behind the falls have a wide cavern, and rocks and paths allow guests to fully encircle it in summer.
Though a mesmerising opportunity, visitors should be prepared to get dampened due to the perpetual mist of the falls, which also tends to make the rocks of the pathway slippery.
Floodlights have been set up on both sides of the waterfall, which impressively illuminate the scene during the night when the midnight sun is not out. The lights were installed in 2001 due to the growing popularity of the falls as a tourist destination.
After visiting Seljalandsfoss, it is common for visitors to continue north to the waterfall Gljúfrabúi, which is found partially hidden behind a rock face. Because of Seljalandsfoss extreme popularity, Gljúfrabúi is widely considered the hidden gem of the scene, as it is too often overlooked.
Seljalandsfoss is also usually visited alongside the nearby Skógafoss. The waterfall falls from the same height, and while it cannot be encircled, it is much more powerful and steeped in the legend of a giant’s hidden treasure.
Visitor Centre Controversy
In 2017, it was announced that a visitor’s centre was to be constructed near the falls. The design of the building indicated that it would be seven metres (23 feet) high and 2,000 square metres (21,500 square feet) in size. Landowners in the area opposed to the idea, proclaiming that the centre would greatly alter the natural appearance of the waterfall’s renowned scenery.
The project has neither been fully approved nor wholly cancelled, with ideas surfacing of either significantly reducing the size of the construction, or moving the visitor centre’s location further away, for instance to the nearby farmstead Brekkuhorn.
Seljalandsfoss in Popular Culture
Along with a multitude of South Iceland’s most famous natural attractions, Seljalandsfoss can be seen in Justin Bieber’s music video for his song ‘I’ll Show You’. Please enjoy the video without emulating any antics that will endanger yourself or the environment.
The waterfall was also a featured waypoint during the first leg of the sixth season of The Amazing Race, an American reality TV series.
Geysir is a famous hot spring in the geothermal area of Haukadalur Valley, found in south-west Iceland.
Making up just one of the attractions along the world-renowned Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside Þingvellir National Park and the mighty Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir is most well-known for having lent its name to geysers all around the world.
Geography
Though Geysir itself is rarely active these days, Haukadalur Valley boasts a plethora of hot springs and geysers, including the powerful Strokkur, Smiður and Litli-Strokkur.
Strokkur is, arguably, the country’s most famous hot spring, shooting vast jets of boiling water from 20 metres (65 feet) up to 40 metres (130 feet) high. Don’t worry about missing this incredible spectacle of nature, as Strokkur erupts every five to ten minutes; just make sure to have your camera ready.
Geysir is much larger, but years can go by between eruptions here; it is currently in an inactive phase. When it does erupt, the water can shoot up in the air as high as 70 metres (230 feet).
Just a few minutes walk north of Geysir are a wealth of fumaroles emanating steam and gas into the cool Icelandic air. Aside from watching the hypnotic pillars of steam, you will also be able to observe the yellow sulphuric stains along the fumaroles themselves, a result of the earth’s minerals crystallising around the rock bed.
At the southern part of the valley, Þykkuhverir, you’ll find various bubbling mud pots. These spooky brown cauldrons are actually fumaroles that boil up through the loose ground; after a dry spell, these mud pools are likely to transform into a hardened fumarole.
Nearby Attractions
About two kilometres (one mile) from Geysir is a preserved natural pool called Kúalaug. It has room for three to five people at a time, but care should be taken, as the area around the pool is very delicate. The temperature is 39-43°C (102-109°F), depending on where you are positioned in the pool.
The water is slightly muddy, as the pool is built on soil, and the bottom is slippery due to algae, so caution is advised when relaxing here.
Haukadalur has also seen a rise in reforestation in recent times thanks to continued experiments and research in the area. Today, Haukadalsskógur is one of the largest forests in south Iceland, boasting accessible walking paths (also for wheelchair users), fascinating vegetation and The Tree Museum, built in the memory of forester Gunnar Freysteinsson.
History
Haukadalur has been inhabited and used as a church site since the Age of Settlement. Given its historic value, it should be noted that scholar, Ari “The Wise“ Þorgilsson, grew up here; it was also where the first pastoral school in Iceland was built.
The current wooden church was last rebuilt in 1938 but its architectural style dates back to 1842, making it well worth a visit to see how Iceland looked before industrialisation.
For accommodation, Hotel Gullfoss is approximately 7 kilometre from the Geysir area, and closer still is Hotel Geysir on the other side of the road from the attraction, where you will also find a restaurant, café and a souvenir shop.
Gullfoss (translated to ‘Golden Falls’) is one of Iceland’s most iconic and beloved waterfalls, found in the Hvítá river canyon in south-west Iceland.
The water in Hvítá river travels from the glacier Langjökull, before cascading 32 meters (105 feet) down Gullfoss’ two stages in a dramatic display of nature’s raw power. This incredible site is seen by most visitors, as it is on the Golden Circle sightseeing route.
Because of the waterfall’s two stages, Gullfoss should actually be thought of as two separate features. The first, shorter cascade is 11 metres (36 feet), whilst the second drop is 21 metres (69 feet). The canyon walls on both sides of the waterfall reach heights of up to 70 metres (230 feet), descending into the great Gullfossgjúfur canyon. Geologists believe that this canyon was formed by glacial outbursts at the beginning of the last age.
In the summer, approximately 140 cubic metres (459 cubic feet) of water surges down the waterfall every second, whilst in winter that number drops to around 109 cubic metres (358 cubic feet). With such energy, visitors should not be surprised to find themselves drenched by the waterfall’s mighty spray.
As mentioned, Gullfoss makes up a part of the highly popular Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside Geysir geothermal area and Þingvellir National Park. Many Golden Circle tours include additional activities that can be taken from Gullfoss, such as ascending the mighty nearby glacier Langjökull and entering its ice tunnels, or snowmobiling along its gleaming surface.
History
In the early days of the last century, Gullfoss was at the centre of much controversy regarding foreign investors and their desire to profit off Iceland’s nature. In the year 1907, an English businessman, Howell, sought to utilise the waterfall’s energy and harboured ambitions to use its energy to fuel a hydroelectric plant.
At the time, Gullfoss was owned by a farmer named Tómas Tómasson. Tómas declined Howell’s offer to purchase the land, stating famously “I will not sell my friend!” He would, however, go on to lease Howell the land without the knowledge of a loophole that would allow him to proceed with his plans.
It was Tómas’ daughter, Sigríður Tómasdóttir, who would lead the charge to stop Howell’s ambitions. Having grown up on her father’s sheep farm where she helped pave the first road to Gullfoss, she sought to get the contract nullified, hurriedly saving her own money to hire a lawyer.
The ensuing legal battle was an uphill struggle; the case continued for years, forcing Sigríður to travel many times by foot to Reykjavík, a distance of over 100 kilometres (62 miles). Circumstances became so difficult that Sigríður threatened to throw herself into the waterfall if any construction began.
Her tenacity, however, resulted in success. In 1929, Howell’s withdrew from the lease, unable to keep up with the costs and difficulties of his plan. The waterfall fell back into the hands of the Icelandic people.
Today, Sigríður is recognised for her perseverance in protecting Gullfoss and is often hailed as Iceland’s first environmentalist. As such, she is one of the most famous figures in Iceland’s history. Her contribution is forever marked in stone; a plaque detailing her plight sits at the top of Gullfoss.
Interestingly, the lawyer who assisted Sigríður, Sveinn Björnsson, went on to go down in history too; he became the first president of Iceland in 1944.
Restaurant / Cafe
Besides Gullfoss, visitors can enjoy the views from Gullfoss Cafe, a locally run delicatessen that serves a wide variety of refreshments and meals. The menu has options to tantalise everyone’s taste buds: hot soups, sandwiches, salads and cakes. There is also a shop on site where visitors’ can browse and purchase traditional Icelandic souvenirs.
The glacier volcano of Eyjafjallajökull is notorious the world over for causing havoc to air travel in 2010, and stumping television anchors everywhere as they tried to pronounce it. 1651 metres (5427 feet) tall, it is one of the most dominant features of the South Coast.
Geography
The glacier of Eyjafjallajökull is approximately 100 square kilometres (39 square miles), making it the country’s sixth largest. It sits close to the fourth greatest, Mýrdalsjökull, which also conceals another notorious volcano, this one called Katla.
While Eyjafjallajökull’s eruption was huge and disruptive, it pales in comparison to the potential of Katla. Far more explosive, and under much thicker ice, an eruption here in unfavourable wind conditions could have worldwide consequences.
The magma chambers between both of these mighty volcanoes are connected, and, unfortunately for us, an eruption at Eyjafjallajökull is usually followed by one at Katla within a decade.
Eyjafjallajökull has many glacial outlets, the most famous being Gígjökull. Many rivers flow from its meltwater, and one of these falls into the beautiful South Coast waterfall, Seljalandsfoss, which it is possible to fully encircle.
Eruptions
Eyjafjallajökull’s most recent eruption was no doubt the most famous in Iceland’s history (although the honour really should go to Laki, the 1783-4 eruption of which caused an ash cloud so great that Europe fell into a famine that many historians believe led to the French Revolution). On March 27th, 2010, magma began to bubble from beneath the surface, and by April 14th, ash was starting to billow from the peak.
800 people were evacuated, in fears not of magma, but of equally dangerous glacial floods, which have decimated Icelandic towns in the past. Animals were ordered to be kept inside, and those with respiratory problems told they should also stay indoors.
Air travel across Europe was halted, as, by the evening of April 15th, the ash was already over the UK, Scandinavia, and parts of Germany. Holidaymakers were trapped, waiting for news, and would end up stuck for eight days; in Scotland and Ireland, there were even flights delayed in May due to lingering effects.
Thankfully, no one was injured, although the ash is thought to have caused respiratory issues for some in the south of the country. Many farms were also destroyed by the ash and floods, with some farmers still struggling to recover today.
Since settlement in 874, Eyjafjallajökull has also erupted in 900, 1612, and from 1821 to 1823. The latter released a huge amount of fluoride which is believed to have affected the bone health of humans and animals alike at the time.
Eyjafjallajokull today
Eyjafjallajökull is now entirely safe to visit and is seen on most tours of the South Coast in clear weather. In the town of Hvolsvöllur, there is a visitor’s centre on the volcano, which focuses on the experience of one family whose farm, Þorvaldseyri, was one of the many destroyed by the floods, lava and ash.
It is very unlikely that Eyjafjallajökull will erupt again any time soon, with hundreds of years between each eruption, but as mentioned, its neighbour Katla might start rumbling...
Þingvellir National Park is the only UNESCO World Heritage site on the Icelandic mainland and one of the three stops on the world famous Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside the Haukadalur Geothermal Valley (Geysir) and Gullfoss Waterfall. Just to the south of the park is Þingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest natural lake.
Geography
The first thing that visitors to the National Park notice is its sheer aesthetic beauty; dried magma fields, covered in Icelandic moss, sit carved by glacial springs and surrounded by a bowl of ancient mountain peaks.
Two of the greatest attractions in the park are the exposed North American and Eurasian tectonic plates; it is one of the only regions in the world where you can see geology such as this on land.
Visitors are encouraged to walk along the North American tectonic plate, where they can read more about the area’s fascinating formation and history, before descending into the valley below.
History
Þingvellir can be anglicised to ‘Fields of Parliament’, a nod to the area’s fascinating history and relevance to Icelandic culture. It is here, after all, that the world’s first democratically elected parliament that remains functioning, Alþingi, was formed in 930 AD.
It may seem unlikely that Vikings would want to be under such an uncombative government, but the thirty or so clans that lived in Iceland at the time sought to prosper in their harsh new environment.
The first gathering was such a success that the meetings became annual, and it became a place where disputes were settled, criminals were tried, and laws to the benefit of all were laid down.
This saw the birth of the Icelandic Commonwealth, a time of independence and freedom for the Icelandic people before they became constituents of the Norwegian monarchy. Sessions would continue to be held at Þingvellir until 1798.
Though the parliament was removed by the Danish at this time, it returned 1845 to Reykjavík.
Another major reason as to why Þingvellir is considered so important to Icelanders is the fact that this is where the decision was made to abandon the belief of Paganism and the Norse Gods; the people adopted Christianity in 1000 AD under threat of invasion from Norway.
This turning point in history was left to the pagan lawspeaker, Þorgeir Þorkelsson, who rested on the choice for one day and one night before reappearing to share his decision.
To symbolise the country’s change, he threw idols of his old deities into the northern waterfall Goðafoss, the name of which translates to ‘Waterfall of the Gods’.
Silfra Fissure
Þingvellir is one of the most widely visited attractions in Iceland, in large part due to the fact that it is home to the glacial spring, Silfra fissure, one of the top ten sites in the world for snorkellers and scuba divers.
Silfra (meaning ‘Silver’) is a submerged ravine within the park, boasting visibility of up to 100 metres (328 feet) and a temperature just above freezing. Participants in these tours will be attired at the Silfra carpark in neoprene hoodies and gloves, as well as an undersuit and drysuit for thermal protection.
Hraunfossar ('Lava Falls' in English) in Borgarfjörður district is a series of beautiful waterfalls formed by rivulets streaming out of the Hallmundarhraun lava field. It is located in West Iceland near another waterfall called Barnafoss.
Geography and Surroundings of Hraunfossar
The lava field that Hraunfossar trickles through flowed from an eruption of one of the volcanoes lying under the nearby glacier of Langjökull, the second largest ice-cap in Iceland. The waterfalls pour into the Hvítá river from ledges of less porous rock in the lava.
Because the area around Hraunfossar used to be the site of constant eruptions, the lava fields are known for their hidden caves. The country's longest cave, Víðgelmir, can be found near the waterfall. This amazing feature is 1,595 metres long (5,200 feet), up to 15.8 metres high (52 feet) and 16.5 metres wide (54 feet).
Its geological history may be fascinating, being just a thousand years old, though its human history stirs just as much intrigue as the lava field was once home to bandits and, according to folklore it is the home of trolls.
Another major site near Hraunfossar is an incredibly short walk away, and though also a waterfall, could not be more different. Barnafoss surges down a narrow, rocky valley with ferocious power, foaming and churning quite spectacularly. According to legend, however, the force of these rapids led to tragedy.
It was said that an old stone bridge once went over the falls, and two boys at a nearby farm, bored at home, attempted to cross it to catch up with their parents at church. However, they felt dizzy due to its height, fell, and drowned.
The legend ends in two different ways, with the least interesting saying the mother in grief simply ordered the bridge destroyed. Other tales say that she cursed the bridge using an Icelandic rune so that any who crossed would meet the same fate as her sons.
In this version, the bridge and curse were later broken by an earthquake.
The story led the waterfall its name; it translates to ‘Children’s Falls’.
Settlements near Hraunfossar
The nearest settlement of significance to Hraunfossar is Reykholt.
This tiny village has a huge history, being home to the legendary writer, chieftain, lawspeaker and poet Snorri Sturluson. Without Snorri, huge amounts of Icelandic, Nordic and even British history would be unknown.
He alone at the time catalogued a history of Norwegian kings and their relations with other monarchs through the work Heimskringla, as well as the Norse mythological beliefs through Prose Edda. It is also believed that Snorri first wrote many of the sagas still read today.
Reykholt has a centre dedicated to Snorri called Snorrastofa, which discusses his fascinating life as much as his works. Working during the times of Iceland’s tumultuous civil war as a chieftain, lawspeaker and spokesman of the Norwegian king, who had ambitions to take the country, it is a story with as much politics, betrayal, blood and sexual impropriety as Game of Thrones.
Hraunfossar is also reasonably close to Borgarnes, another town with a long history. Here, visitors can see the Settlement Centre with its two exhibitions on Iceland’s past, one is on the first people to reach this island over a thousand years ago, and the other is on Iceland’s most famous saga, Egil’s Saga.
Deildartunguhver is a hot spring located in Reykholtsdalur, a district of west Iceland. Deildartunguhver is the highest flowing hot spring in Europe and is widely known for its rapid flow rate of 180 litres (380 pints) per second.
Geothermal activity at Deildartunguhver
Reykholtsdalur is one of Iceland’s most popular places to see hot springs, along with the Geysir Geothermal Area, the Highlands, the Reykjanes Peninsula, Reykjadalur Valley and Námaskarð Pass. While each of these areas have their appeal, at no other does the water rise with such ferocity.
The water at Deildartunguhver hot spring emerges at a constant 97 degrees Celsius (207 degrees Fahrenheit), making it incredibly dangerous for those who venture too close. Thankfully, there are a number of wooden walkways and observation points that lead you around the hot springs without putting you at any risk.
Due to the sheer energy bubbling under Deildartunguhver, much of the water is used for heating Icelandic homes. One pipe travels 34 kilometres (21 miles) to Borgarnes, whilst another travels 64 kilometres (40 miles) to Akranes.
This means that if you’ve taken a shower or bath within a 64-kilometre radius of Deildartunguhver, you will have touched the water from the hot spring.
All Icelandic hot water comes from hot springs such as this, except in some parts of the Westfjords which are now geologically much older than the rest of the country, and thus less active.
This is a fantastic example of how Icelanders efficiently use the geothermal energy provided and is one of the major reasons as to why Iceland has such an excellent reputation for green energy.
Points of Interest at Deildartunguhver
Whilst in the area, many visitors choose to make a stop at Krauma Geothermal Bath & Spa, a fantastic and relaxing complex that makes for a cheaper, more isolated alternative to the Blue Lagoon.
Visitors to Kraua will experience the hot water of Deildartunguhver blended perfectly with glacial water from Iceland’s smallest ice cap, Ok (which rhymes with ‘talk’), creating the perfect bathing temperature.
Krauma has a total of six pools, a relaxation room and two steam baths.
Visitors to Deildartunguhver with an interest in botany will also be able to check out the Blechnum Spicant, aka; “deer fern”, a type of plant that grows nowhere else in Iceland.
Surroundings of Deildartunguhver
Deildartunguhver is located in west Iceland. The two most notable points of interest nearby are two waterfalls, Hraunfossar and Barnafoss.
Hraunfossar, or the ‘Lava Falls’, is, in fact, a series of tiny cascades that trickle through an old lava field. Barnafoss, or ‘the Children’s Falls’, is a more powerful rapid, steeped in a dark legend.
Deildartunghver is also near Víðgelmir, the longest lava cave in the country, trailing for 1,595 metres (5,200 feet) beneath the surface of the earth.
The most significant settlement near Deildartunghver is Reykholt, a beautiful village with a fascinating history. This settlement was once home to Snorri Sturluson, a historian, writer, chieftain and poet without whom we would know very little of the Nordic mythology, folklore and history at the time.
His works, and life--full of politics, betrayal, affairs and war--can be learnt about in the town at the Snorrastofa Centre.
Katla is one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, located underneath Iceland’s fourth largest ice cap, Mýrdalsjökull. Since settlement, it has erupted, on average, once every fifty years, with the last eruption in 1918. It is long overdue.
Katla is connected to Eyjafjallajökull, which erupted in 2010 and caused widespread disruption to air traffic, as well as changes in climate. Usually, Katla is triggered by an eruption here, usually going off within the decade afterwards. Kristín Jónsdóttir said in 2016 that it was ‘a matter of when, not if’ Iceland would face the wrath of Katla once more.
Katla means ‘Kettle’ in Icelandic, and many women are named after the volcano with it being one of the more popular girl’s names.
Geography and geology of Katla
Katla is located on Iceland’s South Coast, north of the village of Vík. Its peak is 1,512 metres (4,961 feet) above sea level, and its crater is 10 kilometres (6.2 miles) wide. The ice of Mýrdalsjökull is, 700 metres (2,300 feet) thick at certain points over it.
Because of this huge amount of ice, some smaller eruptions do not even break the surface. However, even these can be very dangerous, as they can still cause unexpected floods as the melted water seeps from under the glacier. One only needs to see the black sand desert of Sólheimasandur to see how much life can thrive in the glacial outwash plain under Katla.
Because of the floods caused by Katla, Iceland’s South Coast has very few settlements. Floods such as these have wiped out entire villages before.
The floods following the 1918 eruption were particularly powerful, clearing away huge swathes of land. The lava that followed, however, was so voluminous that it extended the southern coastline over five kilometres (eight miles) out to sea.
Though Eyjafjallajökull and Katla have a relationship of exploding in quick succession, they are part of different volcanic systems. Katla’s system has an area of 595 square kilometres (230 square miles), and is connected to the Eldgjá canyon.
Tours on Katla
Katla is beneath the peak of Mýrdalsjökull, which is surrounded by outlet glaciers, making tours on it few and far between - after all, it is very difficult to reach. Some helicopter tours, however, will make a landing here. Some super jeep tours also take the bumpy but beautiful path to the top.
It should be noted that there are ice caves above Katla, which are accessible for longer throughout the year than the ice caves at Vatnajökull. These ones, however, do not have blue ice.
Where to see Katla
Katla can be seen from the Ring Road, which encircles Iceland, by travelling along the South Coast, so long as the weather is clear. It will be visible for much of the drive, which also takes you passed features such as the waterfall Seljalandsfoss and the black sand beach of Reynisfjara.
It can also be viewed when visiting one of the glacier tongues of Mýrdalsjökull, such as Sólheimajökull, the most popular outlet for glacier hiking.
Strokkur is Iceland’s most visited active geyser. One of the three major attractions on the world-famous Golden Circle sightseeing route, it is usually visited alongside Gullfoss Waterfall and Þingvellir National Park.
Strokkur is found in the Geysir Geothermal Area, titled after the Great Geysir, which lent its name to all others across the world. It is the greatest active geyser on site; Geysir itself is in a period of inactivity. Strokkur erupts more regularly than Geysir ever did, blasting water to heights of around fifteen to twenty metres every five to ten minutes, although it is known to reach up to forty metres.
Strokkur and Haukadalur Valley
Strokkur is the primary feature of the Haukadalur valley and the main reason why it is one of the most visited sites in the country. While Geysir will very occasionally still erupt to enormous heights, it is nowhere near reliable enough to justify the area’s popularity.
Haukadalur valley, however, has many other features that make it worth a visit. The natural beauty of the area is shaped by the forces of the earth; fumaroles, hot-springs, mud-pits and other little geysers are littered around, and the ground itself is dyed vividly by elements such as sulfur (yellow), copper (green) and iron (red).
Opposite the main geothermal area in Haukadalur Valley is a restaurant, cafe, hotel and luxury gift shop.
Science behind Strokkur
Active geysers like Strokkur are rare around the world, due to the fact that many conditions must be met for them to form. They are thus only found in certain parts of highly geothermal areas.
The first condition that is necessary is an intense heat source; magma must be close enough to the surface of the earth for the rocks to be hot enough to boil water. Considering that Iceland is located on top of the rift valley between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, this condition is met throughout most of the county.
Secondly, you will need a source of flowing underground water. In the case of Strokkur, this comes from the second largest glacier in the country, Langjökull. Meltwater from the glacier sinks into the surrounding porous lava rock, and travels underground in all directions.
Evidence of this flowing water can be found in Þingvellir National Park, where there are many freshwater springs flowing straight from the earth.
Finally, you need a complex plumbing system that allows a geyser to erupt, rather than just steam from the ground like a fumarole. Above the intense heat source, there must be space for the flowing water to gather like a reservoir. From this basin, there must be a vent to the surface. This vent must be lined with silica so that the boiling, rising water cannot escape before the eruption.
Environmental Issues with Strokkur
One of the main reasons that Geysir entered a period of inactivity was due to the fact soap used to be pumped into the vents to make the eruptions more dramatic; it damaged the structure of the vent and prevented water building up. Strokkur, therefore, is guarded against all interference, with chains keeping visitors a good distance away.
Unfortunately, however, there have been incidents where people have meddled with its natural state. For example, an artist called Marco Evaristti once poured food colouring into it to make the eruption pink. He defended himself by claiming that nature was open to artists to utiltise and the fact the colouring was all-natural, but he became a pariah amongst many Icelanders, and was arrested and fined (though never paid it).
Sólheimajökull is an outlet glacier of the mighty icecap of Mýrdalsjökull on the South Coast of Iceland. It is one of the most easily accessible glaciers to reach from Reykjavík, just 158 kilometres (98 miles) away.
For those who are based in Reykjavík, it is by far the favourite spot on which to take guided glacier walks, competing nationally for popularity only with Svínafellsjökull in the south-east.
Geography of Solheimajokull
About eight kilometres long and two kilometres wide (five miles long and just over a mile wide), Sólheimajökull is an impressive feature. Due to the way it descends from Mýrdalsjökull, however, without a clear distinction between the two, it appears much bigger.
Mýrdalsjökull itself has many other outlet glaciers; overall, it is the fourth largest ice cap in Iceland. Beneath its thick surface is one of the country’s most infamous volcanoes, Katla.
The nearby Eyjafjallajökull erupted in 2010 causing widespread havoc at European airports. Throughout history, eruptions in Eyjafjallajökull mean that Katla will also erupt, and so the volcano is due to go off soon. However, volcanoes and all seismic activity in Iceland is highly monitored, meaning that it is perfectly safe to travel around the area and even take an ice cave tour in the glacier above.
Sadly, like all the glaciers in Iceland bar one, Sólheimajökull is shrinking rapidly. A glacier lagoon at its base reveals how quickly it is receding: the length of an Olympic swimming pool every year. It seems like this change is already an irreversible consequence of climate change, and it may be gone within decades.
Visitors to Iceland should, therefore, make sure they witness the ice-cap while it is still with us.
Sólheimajökull has several distinctive traits that separate it from other glaciers. Firstly, it is incredibly easy to find, laying just off of the Ring Road that encircles Iceland. Secondly, it is not surrounded by tall mountains, meaning those who ascend it can attain incredible views of the South Coast. Thirdly, it is home to many walls of ice that can be climbed up with ice axes on certain tours.
There are also crevasses that snake across the surface, spectacular ice ridges and formations, and a vivid colouration that dances between a gleaming white, electric blue, and ash black. Occasionally, you will even find an ice cave, though these can never be guaranteed.
A river runs from the meltwater of the glacier tongue, called the Jökulsá á Sólheimasandi. This river runs through a glacial outwash plain - otherwise known as a black-sand-desert - of Sólheimasandur to the nearby ocean.
Tours on Solheimajokull
Many day tours run from Reykjavík to Sólheimajökull, for glacier hikes or as part of a greater South Coast tour.
Greater South Coast tours include visits to other features, such as the incredible waterfalls of Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, the black sand beach Reynisfjara, and some even reach Vatnajökull National Park and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.
Hidden crevasses and ice caves, slippery surfaces, and the threat of rock- or ice-falls all pose dangers on glacier hikes, but glacier guides have to pass several training courses to deal with these eventualities, making the activity quite safe for those in a fit state of health.
All guests are equipped with helmets, ice axes, and crampons, and should arrive wearing warm clothes and sturdy hiking boots.
It is forbidden to ascend glaciers without the correct equipment or training, for your safety and the safety of others. There have been injuries and deaths on Sólheimajökull before, and glacier guides have had to risk their lives to rescue those who flouted the rules.
Mýrdalsjökull is a glacier in the south of the Icelandic highlands. It is the country's fourth largest ice cap, covering nearly 600 square kilometres (232 square miles), and its highest peak is almost 1500 meters tall. It is most well-known for sitting atop the notorious and explosive volcano, Katla.
Mýrdalsjökull is visible from Route 1 on the South Coast, sitting to the north of the village of Vík. It is visited on some snowmobiling, ice caving and helicopter tours, and one of its glacial outlets, Sólheimajökull, is the most popular place in the country for ice-climbing and glacier hiking.
Eruptions beneath Myrdalsjokull
Since 2010, the world has known of the volcano beneath Eyjafjallajökull; after all, it halted European air travel for over a week and stumped news readers everywhere. Few, however, are aware of the much larger volcano right beside it.
Mýrdalsjökull conceals Katla, one of the country’s most active volcanoes, having erupted, on average, once every fifty years since 930 AD. Because of the glacier above it, these eruptions tend to cause enormous ash clouds. It is these ash clouds that lead to flights being grounded, crops and livestock poisoned, and have the potential to change the world’s climate.
The last major eruption beneath Katla was in 1918, in which such huge lahar floods occurred that the southern coastline was extended five kilometres outwards. This area is also very susceptible to glacial floods, or 'jökulhlaup', during eruptions, even when the lava does not break through the surface of the ice. These are as dangerous as the lava itself, having wiped out whole Icelandic villages before.
Historically, the area was little settled for this reason.
Katla is connected to the same volcanic system as Eyjafjallajökull and usually erupts violently a few years after Eyjafjallajökull does. As the ex-president, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson said in 2010:
‘The time for Katla to erupt is coming close… it is high time for European governments and airline authorities all over Europe and the world to start planning for the eventual Katla eruption’
So it is currently several years overdue. Katla is monitored heavily, and roads around it closed when seismic activity increases. All road closures around Iceland can be found on Road and Coastal Administration's website.
Tours on Myrdalsjokull
While there are no eruptions immediately imminent, tours continue to run onMýrdalsjökull, allowing visitors to enjoy the glacier. It is, for example, possible to snowmobile across its surface throughout the year and take ice caving tours beneath it throughout the year, with departures from both Reykjavík and Vík.
Considering the ice caves under Vatnajökull glacier are usually only accessible from November to March, this provides a wider window of opportunity for travellers to Iceland outside of the depths of winter. It should be noted that the caves in Mýrdalsjökull do not have the same blue ice, however.
Tours around Myrdalsjokull
Mýrdalsjökull can be seen on all South Coast tours that reach Vík and beyond in clear weather. It can also be seen from above on helicopter tours that depart from Reykjavík.
The best perspectives of the glacier, however, can be found on the popular Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail, which goes between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. Part of this hike can be done in a day, or you can take the complete route from Þórsmörk to Skógar on a three-day trek
Skaftafell is a nature reserve located in Vatnajökull National Park in the south-east of Iceland. It is an oasis of this nation’s diverse landscapes and features, so beautiful it was once a national park in its own right.
Nature of Skaftafell
Skaftafell is notable for its rich flora, growing between sands and glaciers, and for its amazing, contrasting scenery. Visitors will find a wealth of natural attractions, from cascading waterfalls to glacier lagoons, geological formations to black sand deserts.
The rugged region is known for its fantastic photo opportunities, with many awe-inspiring panoramic views.
Like many areas along the South Coast of Iceland, Skaftafell Nature Reserve is known for its glorious hiking trails, often called a ‘hiking paradise’. Unlike in the Highlands, where hikes tend to go on for multiple days, here there are far shorter. There are easy treks that lead to diverse sites such as the waterfall Svartifoss which is surrounded by bizarre and beautiful basalt columns, as well as to glaciers such as Svínafellsjökull.
With a qualified guide, it is an excellent region to try your hand at a spot of either ice climbing or glacier hiking; both activities are two of the most authentically Icelandic experiences you can partake in whilst in the country.
The nature reserve is also the perfect base camp for those seeking to climb Iceland’s highest peak, Hvannadalshnúkur, or for those wishing to spend a number of days exploring the region's attractions, including Vatnajökull glacier, Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon and the nearby Diamond Beach.
Getting to Skaftafell
Just off the Ring Road in the south-east of the country, it takes approximately four hours to reach Skaftafell from Reykjavík. The South Coast, however, is one of the regions most popular sightseeing routes, so the journey usually takes much longer, as visitors will want to make several stops along the way.
Examples of the beautiful natural features found en route to Skaftafell include the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, the glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull, the black sand deserts of Sólheimasandur and Skeiðarársandur, as well as the dramatic coastal rock formations at Dyrhólaey and Reynisdrangar. The villages of Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur are also along Route 1 if you need to stop and refuel on refreshments.
Those who have made it all the way to Skaftafell will want to be sure to check out the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, a giant lake filled with enormous icebergs breaking from a glacial tongue, and slowly drifting to sea. At the nearby Diamond Beach you can watch them wash upon the shore, and in both the sea and lagoon are many seals which can routinely be spotted.
Skaftafell Visitor Center
You will find a Visitors Centre at Skaftafell which acts as the main information and meeting point for tour operators and independent travellers. At the Skaftafell Visitor Centre, you will find answers to virtually any questions you might have about the greater Skaftafell area, including its history and geology. The Visitors Centre also contains information about nearby hiking trails, recreational options and accommodation.
There is also a hotel at Skaftafell, though it tends to book up very early. Luckily, the south-east is dotted with hotels, cabins and cottages in which you can stay, and the area is not far from the settlements of Höfn or Kirkjubæklaustur.
Hveravellir is a geothermal area and nature reserve in the Icelandic highlands, between the glaciers Hofsjokull and Langjokull.
The area features colourful sinters and smoking fumaroles, hot springs and a geothermal hot pool. Hveravellir is renowned for its beauty and is a popular stop when traveling through the highland road of Kjolur.
Silfra is a fissure filled with fresh spring water within Þingvellir National Park, and one of the country’s most cherished wonders. Snorkelling and diving in its crystal-clear waters is an experience that is both thrilling and relaxing, and it is now considered to be one of the top five dive sites in the world. It takes around an hour to reach Silfra from Reykjavík.
Geography of Silfra
Silfra fissure opened in 1789, due to the movements of the tectonic plates that frame Þingvellir National Park. The North American and Eurasian plates, which run all the way through Iceland, separate at about 2 centimetres per year, and as they do, they tear open fissures in the land between them.
Some of the ravines fill with water travelling underground through the porous lava fields in the area, originating from Langjökull glacier about 60 kilometres north. It can take the water up to a century to reach Silfra and this long filtration process results in the water being both extremely clear and drinkable.
Because the water travels underground, it maintains a constant temperature of two to three degrees Celsius and does not freeze over immediately at the source of the spring. Snorkelling and diving tours are thus open throughout the year.
The clarity of the water is what draws most visitors. The visibility can extend to over 100 metres, allowing you to see the canyon walls and bottom like you are floating over a great cathedral.
The last colour that water absorbs is blue, which means that when you look forward in Silfra, it is as if you are looking into an ethereal, vivid, azure world. The clarity also means that sun-rays refract through the surface of the water, creating rainbows on Silfra’s bed when the weather allows.
Snorkelling in Silfra
Snorkelling in Silfra fissure is a highly enjoyable activity, but you must meet some prerequisites to be able to join. These are as follows:
- You must be able to swim
- You must be over 16
- You must be in good physical health
- You must be at least 145 centimetres and 45 kilograms
- If you are over sixty, you will need a medical waiver
- If you are over forty-five with a history of heavy alcohol use and pipe smoking, you will also need a waiver
The most common option for snorkelling is to conduct it in a drysuit. Drysuits work with a fluffy undersuit to keep your body free from water and insulated against the cold, making the task of swimming through the near-freezing temperature more than achievable.
While drysuit snorkelling is the most comfortable and popular option, a few tours allow you to go through Silfra wearing a wetsuit. Wetsuits, made of neoprene, allow water to surround your body in a thin layer, that your body then heats up and uses to protect you. Though they grant you more flexibility, they are not so warm, so this should be done by the daring; you will also need to be at least 50 kilograms to snorkel in a wetsuit.
In all tours, you wear neoprene on your head and hands to allow for better mobility, a mask and snorkel, and a pair of fins, all of which are provided on site. The course of Silfra takes approximately forty minutes, and there is a gentle current throughout, meaning it requires minimal energy to traverse.
Diving in Silfra
Diving through Silfra gives an extra dimension to its beauty, as you will be able to look up and see the sun glistening upon the surface as you cruise through the crystal clear waters. However, considering the risks associated with diving in cold water and cumbersome equipment, all who partake must meet all the requirements above, as well as one of the following:
- You must be a qualified diver with a certification in a drysuit speciality, OR
- You must be a qualified diver with at least 10 logged dives in a drysuit conducted over the past two years, signed by an instructor or divemaster.
Reynisfjara is a world-famous black-sand beach found on the South Coast of Iceland, just beside the small fishing village of Vík í Mýrdal.
With its enormous basalt stacks, roaring Atlantic waves and stunning panoramas, Reynisfjara is widely considered to be the most beautiful example of Iceland’s black sand beaches. In 1991, National Geographic voted Reynisfjara as one of the Top 10 non-tropical beaches to visit on the planet.
Reynisfjara is found around 180 kilometers (112 miles) from Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavík, and is a popular stop-off for those taking a sightseeing tour along the popular South Coast.
Driving to the beach is particularly easy, taking an approximate two and a half hours from the capital, so can easily be done within half a day, or a full one combined with other features.
Folklore
Upon visiting the beach, travelers will immediately observe rocky sea stacks sitting off the shoreline, known as Reynisdrangar.
According to local Icelandic folklore, these large basalt columns were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean to shore. However, these trolls were dim and went out too late in the night; dawn broke on the horizon, turning the trolls into solid stone.
Another legend tells of a husband whose wife was kidnapped and killed by two trolls. The man followed the trolls down to Reynisfjara where he froze them, ensuring that they would never kill again.
So mesmerizing are these features that they featured in Season 7 of the HBO Series Game of Thrones; you can spot them in a few scenes shot ‘North of the Wall’.
The sea stacks themselves are home to thousands of nesting seabirds. Species that can be found here include puffins, fulmars and guillemots, making it a must-see location for all birdwatchers out there.
Surrounding Sites
Reynisfjara beach is located conveniently in the middle of the South Coast, adjacent to the village of Vík. This means that those taking the Ring Road around the country, or else those heading to the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, will pass it, and are encouraged to make a stop.
The closest major landmark is the Dyrhólaey rock arch and cliffs. While many seabirds are found at Reynisfjara, it is nothing compared to the numbers here. From May to August, it is one of the best places to see puffins from land.
En route to Reynisfjara from Reykjavík, you will discover waterfalls, such as Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, and glaciers, such as Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. Further along the South Coast, you will reach the Vatnajökull National Park, with its many glacier tongues, glacier lagoons, black sand deserts, and the incredible Skaftafell Nature Reserve.
Potential Dangers
Visitors to Reynisfjara must be made well aware of the potential dangers present at the beach. First of all, the rolling, roaring waves of Reynisfjara are particularly violent, often pushing far further up the beach than many would expect.
These are called sneaker-waves, and they can appear when least expected, even on incredibly still days. There are no significant landmasses in between Antarctica and the shores of Reynisfjara, meaning waves have thousands of kilometers to build.
Visitors are advised to never turn their back on the waves, and keep a safe distance of at least 30 meters (98 feet).
Aside from these sudden and dramatic shifts in the tide, the rip currents offshore are infamous for their strength and ability to drag helpless people out into the freezing cold open ocean. A number of fatal accidents have occurred at Reynisfjara, the last of which occurred in January 2017.
Barnafoss is a rapid waterfall in West Iceland, just a short walk away from the serene Hraunfossar falls. It is best known for its dark history in folklore, and for how much it contrasts with its neighbour.
Folklore of Barnafoss
Barnafoss translates to ‘the Children’s Falls’ because of a legend long told about it. Back in Iceland’s early days, it was said that a family with two boys lived at the nearby farm of Hraunsás. The parents left home for church one morning, ordering the young ones to remain at home, but with nothing to entertain them, the children soon decided to follow.
They knew a shortcut to the church: a stone bridge, arching over the nearby rapid waterfall, that back then would have had a different name. They started to cross it, but found the heights and surging water below dizzying. In a tragic turn of events, neither boy made it across the bridge, and both fell to their deaths.
Though both parents were grief-stricken, the mother veered towards insanity. Some versions of the tale end with her demanding the bridge be torn down. Others say she turned to witchcraft, placing a rune on the bridge that made any who crossed it plummet to their deaths just like her beloved sons.
If the latter version is true, her spell was broken when an earthquake shattered the passage.
While Iceland’s tales of magic were, of course, exaggerated as they were passed down in oral tradition, it is very possible that this story is true; Barnafoss would kill whoever fell into it in all likelihood, and many Icelanders scratched runes to spread curses to their neighbours and rivals.
It is, of course, equally possible that like many Icelandic tales, it was simply created as a way to ensure that young children respected their parents, and feared the country’s unpredictable nature.
Surroundings of Barnafoss
Barnafoss is a magical site in and of itself, twisting, turning, foaming and churning as it races down a narrow valley, from which you can view it from above. It is even more fantastical, however, due to its contrast with Hraunfossar.
Rather than being a narrow rapids, Hraunfossar is a wide series of trickling waterfalls, flowing from a plateau of lava rock. Seeing the drama of one, followed by the peace of the other, is an excellent example of how Iceland’s scenery is ever-changing, and completely different spectacles can exist within mere metres of each other.
Other sites of the west near Barnafoss include the highest-flowing hot spring in Europe, Deildartunguhver, which is fascinating to admire but impossible to bathe in due to its extreme heat.
There are also the settlements of Reykholt and Borgarnes, both of which should be visited by those passionate about Icelandic history and culture. Reykholt hosts the Snorrastofa Exhibition, where you can learn about the village’s most famous resident, Snorri Sturluson. Snorri wrote many of the Icelandic texts that reveal huge amounts about Nordic kings, Norse mythology, and Icelandic folklore.
Borgarnes, meanwhile, has the Settlement Centre, where guests can learn about the brave first arrivals to this stark new home, and one of the country’s most famous sagas, Egil’s Saga.
Vík í Mýdral, or just Vík, is the southernmost village on the Icelandic mainland, located 186 kilometres (110 miles) from the capital Reykjavík.
Often visited by those travelling the popular sightseeing route along the South Coast, it is a wonderful place to stop, recharge, and if you are taking your time, rest for the night. Though it only has around 300 residents, the village is very popular amongst tourists for its convenience and beautiful surrounding landscapes.
Features near Vik
Reaching Vík from Reykjavík takes approximately two and a half hours, and en route, there are many marvellous features to admire. Two of the country’s most famous waterfalls, Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, lay between the two destinations; the former has awe-inspiring power, whereas the latter can be fully encircled.
The glaciers Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull can also be seen on clear days; both of these cover volcanoes which are particularly explosive, with Eyjafjallajökull famously disrupting European air travel in 2010. Out to sea in especially good weather, the Westman Islands can also be seen on the horizon.
Just before Vík are the popular birdwatching cliffs of Dyrhólaey, where you can also find an enormous rock arch curving out into the ocean. This is one of the best places for birdwatching in Iceland, with thousands of puffins nesting here from May to August.
The village itself sits opposite one of the country’s most famous features: Reynisfjara black sand beach. Considered one of the world’s most beautiful non-tropical beaches, it boasts incredible geology.
Particularly of note are the Reynisdrangar sea-stacks, said to be two trolls frozen in the light of the morning sun as they tried to pull a ship into shore.
Though this beach makes for a lovely walk, particularly for those staying in Vík overnight, as they can see it under the midnight sun or northern lights, it has its dangers. Sneaker waves can be notorious here, so visitors should stay far from the water’s edge, and never go for a swim. Lives have been lost here before.
The route to Vík from Reykjavík is beautiful and continues to be so as you travel further along the South Coast, through the Skeiðarásandur black-sand-plains into Vatnajökull National Park. This beautiful region is often the final destination of those passing through Vík, as it is home to the largest glacier in Europe, the Skaftafell Nature Reserve, and Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.
Of course, ambitious travellers will carry on from here to encircle the full country.
Wildlife around Vik
Vík, due to its closeness to the Reynisfjall and Dyrhólaey cliffs, has a rich birdlife. Short walks from the village will take you to the nesting grounds of gulls, fulmar, guillemots, and in summer, puffins.
Due to its coastal location, visitors to Vík have a decent chance to see seals on the shore. There is also a slim chance to see whales or dolphins; the twenty or so species that live in Iceland’s waters can appear at any time.
Services in Vik
Vík has a wide variety of public services, due to its remoteness and its importance in connecting the east and west of Iceland. There are gas stations, shops and cafes, a swimming pool, a wool factory that can be visited, and a wide range of accommodation options for all budgets.
Please note, however, that as the village has such a small year-round population, those with special dietary requirements should purchase their food from Reykjavík before departing.
Egilsstaðir is the largest town in East Iceland, with a population of 2464 people as of 2018. It is located on the banks of the river Lagarfljót in the wide valley of the fertile Fljótsdalshérað district.
Egilsstaðir is the main centre for service, transportation and administration in East Iceland. It is, therefore, an ideal place for those who are travelling around the Ring Road of the country to refresh and rest. It has excellent connections to remote and little-travelled East Fjords, and to Vatnajökull National Park.
Airport and Services in Egilsstaðir
Egilsstaðir provides all basic services for travellers, with a supermarket, souvenir shops, hotels, an information centre, restaurants and tour operators. It also boasts a quaint and popular Heritage Museum, which has several remodelled turf-houses, replicas of the homes Icelanders lived in for centuries.
The town also features an airport which is mostly used for domestic flights, although an increasing number of international airlines are beginning to fly there. The town also boasts a college and a health centre.
Egilsstaðir also has an annual electronic music festival, Hringrás; the Orsteiti Town Festival; and a jazz festival.
Nature Surrounding Egilsstaðir
Close to the town of Egilsstaðir are two of Iceland’s little-known gems: its largest forest, Hallormsstaðaskógur, and a mysterious lake, Lagarfjlót.
Hallormsstaðaskógur covers 740 hectares, and is composed of over eighty different species of tree from all over the world; the rate it has grown at is astonishing, considering that in 1910 it was simply a copse in a protected paddock.
It is a favourite destination for hikers and bikers, with over 40 kilometres (25 miles) of marked paths. It is also a favoured spot for birdwatchers, due to the dozens of species indigenous to the area.
Lagarfjlót, however, has more appeal to the superstitious. Since the 14th Century, there have been many reports of a great wyrm living in its depths, and sightings of this mythical beast continue to this day.
A little further afield from Egilsstaðir, you will reach the magnificent East Fjords. Like the Westfjords, this is one of the most remote places in the country, and as you wind around the giant mountains and look across the sparkling bays, there will often be no other soul in sight.
Those travelling the East Fjords should be sure to soak up the culture of the fishing villages, the magnificent views, and the extensive wildlife.
Looking towards the sea cliffs will provide plentiful opportunities to see many species of nesting bird; on the shores you may see colonies of seals; and out amongst the waves, perhaps even the breaking fin of a whale or dolphin.
This is also the only place in the country where reindeer can be found. Brought over initially to be farmed for meat, the industry was never as lucrative as sheep and horse farming, so the animals have roamed in their herds ever since.
Travelling north from Egilsstaðir on the Ring Road takes you into the Highlands of Vatnajökull National Park. In this region, you can find features such as Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon, home to the most powerful waterfall in Europe, Dettifoss.
If driving around the Ring Road of Iceland yourself in a clockwise direction, and you are planning to stay the night in Egilsstaðir, the most convenient and beautiful places to spend the night or two before that would be either in the towns of Akureyri or Húsavík, or the Lake Mývatn Area.
If travelling counter-clockwise, the best locations are at the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Skaftafell National Park in the southeast.
Hvolsvöllur is a small town of 950 people in south Iceland, conveniently located by the Ring Road. It is often travelled through or stopped off in by those exploring the South Coast or encircling the country.
It is very popular as a place to stay in a cabin or bungalow for those who want to be close to the sites of the west and south, such as the Golden Circle, but away from the hustle and bustle of Reykjavík.
Economy and transport
Hvolsvöllur’s main economy is services to the surrounding agricultural area, which has an additional 600 people. It is also a growing place tourism, considering its easy accessibility to Iceland’s capital and some of its major natural sites.
Sitting on the Ring Road means a constant flow of travellers use Hvolsvöllur’s services. It also has a tiny local airport, with flights to the Westman Islands.
Museum
The area around Hvolsvöllur features prominently in one of the most famous Icelandic sagas, Njál’s saga. These sagas were epic works of fiction, which encapsulated much of the history (and folklore) of Iceland in its early era.
Njál’s saga is often thought of as one of the best, as many believe it to have been written by legendary historian and poet, Snorri Sturluson.
There is an excellent Icelandic Saga Centre in the town that those who love literature and history should not miss checking out.
‘The Exhibition of Njál’ is the first of its two exhibitions, introducing guests to the characters of the sagas, along with the Viking cosmology and the literary arts that have existed in Iceland for centuries.
The other is on the history of trade, commerce and the cooperative movement in the 20th century. While this may not seem fascinating, Iceland’s journey through this time is actually quite a riveting story.
In the early 1900s, the country had little changed since the medieval era. People still scraped a living off fishing and farming, lived in turf houses or, if they were extremely poor, caves, and had very little industry or infrastructure. The nation was still under the Danish Crown, with little to no contact with the outside world.
Fast-forward to 1999, and Iceland was already the developed country it is today, leading the world on issues such as gender equality, technological prowess, social fairness and civil rights.
You can also view a model of Alþingi, Iceland’s parliament, founded at Þingvellir in 930 AD here.
Hvolsvöllur also has homed the Lava Centre since 2017, an interactive museum where visitors can learn about the earthquakes and volcanoes that shape this country.
There is also a nice gallery in town, and a good restaurant in the Saga Hall, a replica of a medieval longhouse.
Nearby attractions
Hvolsvöllur has a number of interesting hiking routes in its vicinity. Among interesting sights is the large and peculiar rock Drangurinn by the farm Drangshlíð, under the Eyjafjöll mountains.
Hvolsvöllur is also a short drive from many other interesting attractions, among them some of Iceland’s most famous. One of Iceland’s oldest swimming pools, Seljavallalaug, is about 44 kilometres (27 miles) from the town. At a 14 kilometre (nine mile) distance is the rural area of Fljótshlíð and the farm Hlíðarendi. According to Njal's Saga, its hero, Gunnar, lived there.
There is good trout and salmon fishing in the nearby rivers. Several interesting caves, both natural and man-made are in driving distance from Hvolsvöllur.
There is also a number of beautiful waterfalls not far off, the most well known being Seljalandsfoss, which you can walk behind, and Skógafoss, one of Iceland’s highest and most beautiful falls.
Of course, as mentioned, the town is also a perfect launching point from which to explore the Golden Circle, which consists of the Geysir Geothermal Area, Gullfoss Waterfall, and Þingvellir National Park.
Reynisdrangar are impressive rock formations situated near the shore of Reynisfjara beach by the coastal village Vík on the South Coast of Iceland.
The formations are the remains of large and imposing sea cliffs, made up of basalt, that serve as a vital part of the area’s allure; they shoot dramatically out of the ocean under the looming cliffs of Mt. Reynisfjall, making for a beautiful site, and have a folklore that is equally impressive.
More modern visitors will be excited to know that these pillars also feature in Season 7 of Game of Thrones, at Eastwatch by the Sea.
Dangerous Waves
Before getting into the wonders of Reynisdrangar, it is important for potential visitors to be aware of the dangers at the site.
These majestic rock pillars rise from the sea just off of Reynisfjara, a famous black sand beach on the South Coast, by the village of Vík. Though incredible due to its diverse and dramatic geology, Reynisfjara is gaining a notorious reputation for its sneaker waves.
There are no significant landmasses between Antarctica and Reynisfjara, giving waves the entire length of the Atlantic Ocean to build strength. This means that even on still, summer days, they can rise from seemingly nowhere and chase far further up the sand than would ever be expected.
It is absolutely imperative, therefore, that guests stay at least 30 metres (98 feet) from the water’s edge. Those who flout these rules put their lives and the lives of others at risk; people have died here before.
Folklore
As with almost all bizarre features in this country, there is an Icelandic folk tale that explains the origin of the Reynisdrangar pillars and their eerie appearance.
According to legend, a couple of trolls saw a ship out to sea by night, and waded out to reach it. They got hold of it, and began to drag it to shore, but as so often happens in troll stories, they got their timing wrong.
Before they were even close to getting to the shade, dawn broke. The trolls and ship were instantly frozen into stone, and they have remained immortalised since, as a warning to their kin.
This is not the only folk tale in this area. According to local legend, two other trolls murdered a woman, whose husband hunted them down, tricked them into coming out at night, and ensured they too were turned to stone. Their remains can be found inland.
Surroundings & Wildlife
Most visitors will only see the Reynisfjara sea-stacks from the shore of Reynisfjara, although there is an incredibly rewarding alternative view of them from above. Those with a reasonable level of fitness can venture up the bewitching cliffs of Mt. Reynisfjall, by a road to the west of Vík.
The mountain furthermore holds thousands of puffins every summer, from May to August. These adorable creatures have very little fear of people, and can be approached within metres (although you should never try to touch them). Other birds can be seen gliding around the cliffs such as Arctic terns, fulmars and seagulls.
The oceans of Iceland are pregnant with life, so lucky visitors may also see seals in the water, or even one of Iceland’s twenty species of whale and dolphin.
Hvítserkur, otherwise known as the Troll of Northwest Iceland, is a 15 m (49 ft) tall basalt rock stack protruding from Húnaflói Bay. The rock is a nesting ground for seagulls, shag and fulmar, making it appear constantly in motion, further enforcing the idea that Hvítserkur is, in some way, very much alive.
Hvítserkur is best viewed along the eastern shore of Vatnsnes Peninsula and takes its name from the birdlife that nests on top of it. In Icelandic, the name translates to “white shirt”, a nod to the colour of the bird droppings that cover the rock.
Photographers tend to be drawn to Hvítserkur as a subject due to the way the sun, moon, and aurora borealis reflect off of the flat water around its distinctive form.
Folklore of Hvítserkur
It should come as no surprise that Hvítserkur is often referred to as a troll—most distinctive Icelandic rocks are. Folklore says that Hvítserkur was originally a troll from the peninsula, determined to rip the bells down from Þingeyraklaustur convent; trolls, unlike elves, are said to be terrified of Christianity.
The beast was so enraged and persistent that it did not notice the rising sun, and was instantly petrified for eternity in its rays.
In hindsight, like most of Iceland’s folktales, it seems this one had a Christian message not so subtly weaved into it. It is likely that the story was an allusion to the people’s stoic resistance to the Christianisation of Iceland, implying those who held onto the view were as stubborn, stupid, violent and wicked as trolls, and perhaps on their way to a similar fate.
Iceland converted to Christianity in 1000 AD under the threat of invasion from Norway, and the transition was not easy; those who practised the religion of the Old Norse Gods were ostracised and punished for the millennium that followed.
Formation of Hvítserkur
The scientific community has another explanation for how Hvítserkur formed. Erosion from the cascading sea water has carved three large holes through the basalt rock, sculpting and shaping it into what appears as some petrified, mythological animal.
The base of the stack has been reinforced with concrete to protect its foundations from the sea, but this has not stopped visitors’ interpreting the rock’s peculiar shape.
Some say Hvítserkur looks like more like an elephant than a troll, while others claim it looks like a rhino. Some onlookers have gone as far as to claim the rock appears as a dragon or dinosaur drinking.
Sites Nearby Hvítserkur
Hvítserkur is located on Vatnsnes Peninsula, the best seal watching location in the country. In the town of Hvammstangi, there is the Icelandic Seal Centre, where visitors can learn all about how these charming animals have influenced the nation’s survival and folklore. The town also has some small shops and a restaurant with beautiful sea views.
To the south of Hvítserkur one can find the beach of Sigríðarstaðir, which is arguably the most reliable and rewarding location viewing seal colonies in the country.
Hvítserkur is also only a short drive from the historical and quintessential Súluvellir farm, a location that boasts incredible views of the surrounding landscape.
Öxarárfoss is a waterfall situated within Þingvellir National Park in southwest Iceland.
The waterfall flows out the river Öxará, cascading in two drops over the cliffs of Almannagjá gorge, which marks the eastern boundary of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.
Description
The waterfall has a height of 13 metres (44 feet) and an average width of six metres (20 feet). The pool of water at the waterfall’s base is dotted with large, smooth rocks, which get especially icy in winter. The waterfall can be visited year round, but expect large crowds during the peak season of the summer.
During the depths of winter, the waterfall is entirely frozen over. Ice climbers have been known to scale it, but this should only be done with and by experts.
Surroundings and History
Öxarárfoss is one of the most popular attractions of Þingvellir Natural Park, which in turn, is one of the most popular attractions of Iceland. The National Park is one of the three famous sites of the Golden Circle along with Gullfoss waterfall and the Geyser Geothermal Area, for both geological and historical reasons.
The geological reason is that, as mentioned, Þingvellir lies between the tectonic plates. As they pull apart, the land is torn, and thus there are many beautiful ravines and lava fields to be found.
The most famous of these ravines is Silfra. Like the others, it is filled with crystal clear glacial water, which emerges from a spring, but unlike the others, it is possible to take snorkelling and diving tours here.
The water from the crevasses such as Silfra feed into the lake Þingvellavatn; in fact, the river Öxará, which feeds Öxarárfoss, is the only source of the lake that does not come from a spring.
The historical reason that makes Þingvellir so famous is that it was the original site of the Alþing, the Icelandic parliament founded in 930 AD. This parliament continues to exist in Reykjavík but for nine centuries flourished here.
Icelanders would meet annually to pass laws, settle disputes, and share news. It was both incredibly progressive, giving a voice to all people and granting women divorces long before many other nations were considering it, and barbaric, hosting many battles and the prosecution of dozens of witches.
It is thus featured in many sagas, and though not always mentioned in them, Öxarárfoss was a witness to this long history.
One notable piece of folklore about the waterfall was that it was said to have prophetic powers for the year ahead. At midnight on New Years Eve, it would run red with either wine or blood, with the former promising prosperity ahead, and the latter warning of war.
Haukadalur is a geothermal valley in South Iceland on the popular Golden Circle route.
Lying to the north of Lake Laugarvatn, it is home to hot springs, fumaroles, mud pots and geysers, including the famous Great Geysir and the active Strokkur. The area is noted for the vivid colouration of its surrounding hills, caused by elements deep in the earth being brought to the surface by the geothermal activity.
History of Haukadalur
Haukadalur has been mentioned in historic writings as far back as 1294, in which its geysers were described following an earthquake that activated them. Since the 18th Century, it has been drawing visitors to the island including two different Kings of Denmark in 1907 and 1922.
Throughout the 20th Century, images of the Great Geysir erupting at Haukadular began to symbolise Iceland. It’s activity, however, was unreliable, so unnatural efforts were made to stimulate it more regularly, such as lowering the water table in 1935 and pumping soap into it 1981.
These, however, limited the geyser’s long-term activity, so that it rarely goes off today, although, in the early 2000s, it did have a period where it was spouting water over 140 metres (459 ft) high. Even so, the geyser Strokkur is still very active, erupting to heights of 30 metres (98 ft) every five to ten minutes.
Today, most of the near-two million visitors to Iceland will see Haukadalur Valley on their travels.
Surroundings of Haukadalur
Haukadalur Valley is located about an hour and a half’s drive inland from Reykjavík, thus making many sites of the South and West easily accessible. The most notable of these are the other points on the Golden Circle: Gullfoss Waterfall (about five minutes away) and Þingvellir National Park (about forty minutes away).
It is also, however, within an easy driving distance of Flúðir, home of the Secret Lagoon, the Kjölur Highland Road, which leads into Iceland’s interior, Sólheimar eco-village, and Faxi Waterfall.
Photo from Goðafoss Waterfall and the Mývatn Nature Baths
The Mývatn Nature Baths are a set of geothermally heated pools and steam baths found in the Lake Mývatn area. They are about two kilometres east of the village of Reykjahlíð, and a fantastic example of Iceland’s hot spring culture.
Opened in 2004, the Mývatn Nature Baths can be considered to be somewhat of a northern equivalent of the world-famous Blue Lagoon Spa, found in Iceland's south-west. It is the only pool of its size in the area and is ever increasing in popularity. It is recommended you book tickets in advance in the summer.
Facilities and Price of the Mývatn Nature Baths
The Mývatn Nature Baths are centred around a large lagoon, which has a temperature of about 36 to 40 degrees Celsius (97 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit). The water here is packed with minerals, particularly sulphur, which is said to be good for respiratory and skin problems.
There are also two steam-baths, sat directly on top of churning geothermal waters. The temperature in these is close to 50 degrees Celsius (122 degrees Fahrenheit), and humidity is near 100%, so be sure to be well hydrated before going in. The site also has a hot tub and a separate pool for young children, as well as a restaurant.
The price for adult entry is 4,500 ISK for the winter season (until the end of April) and 5,000 ISK in summer (until the end of September); 1,800 and 2,200 ISK respectively for teenagers aged 13-15; and 3,000 ISK respectively for senior citizens, handicapped customers and students; and free for those 12 and younger with an adult.
Sites Around the Mývatn Nature Baths
The Mývatn region is one of the most diverse in Iceland. You will only have to drive five minutes from the Nature Baths to come across natural geothermal phenomena, such as those at Mount Námaskarð. On this pass, you will find dozens of seething fumaroles and bubbling mud pits, that dye the land vivid colours and fill the air with noxious fumes.
Nearby you will also find geological wonders, such as at Dimmuborgir. This ‘lava fortress’ is unbelievably dramatic, and steeped in folklore; it is said that this is where the thirteen evil Santas of Iceland live. It is no wonder that it was used in Game of Thrones as the setting for Mance Rayder’s Wildling Camp Beyond the Wall.
Another nearby site used in Game of Thrones that combines both geothermal energy and geological beauty is the Grjótagjá hot spring cave. While you cannot bathe here, you can feel the water and see where Jon Snow and his Wildling lover consummated their relationship.
The lake Mývatn itself is beautiful and renowned for its birdlife, with over a dozen species of duck, to say nothing of the other species. Those interested in flora will be interested to know that this is one of the few places in the world where you can see moss balls.
The Mývatn area is also considered a point on the Diamond Circle sightseeing route, so it is close to other incredible places of the North, such as Goðafoss and Dettifoss Waterfalls.
Námaskarð Pass is a geothermal area on the mountain Námafjall, in north Iceland, less than half an hour’s drive from Lake Mývatn. It is located by Route 1, which encircles the country.
Connected to the Krafla volcano system, Námaskarð is home to many hot springs and fumaroles.
Geography of Námaskarð
Námaskarð is notable due to its barrenness; no vegetation grows on its slopes. This is due to the heat beneath the earth, the acidity in the soil, and poisonous fumes being expelled.
That is not to say, however, that the site is dull; its life comes from the vivid colours that streak through the earth, dyed by the elements brought up with the steam. Expect to see shades of red, orange, yellow and green, particularly concentrated around the springs themselves.
The air smells intensely of sulphur throughout the area, which, while unpleasant, is a constant reminder of the powerful forces at work beneath your feet. Though it would be damaging for your health to spend too long breathing it, a visit for a few hours will not cause any problems.
While exploring Námaskarð, be sure not to touch any of the running water, as it is likely to be boiling. Also, give all the hot springs a reasonably wide berth, as the land surrounding them may be unstable, with scalding steam just beneath the surface.
Námaskarð is about 400 metres (1312 ft) above sea level.
Surroundings of Námaskarð
Námaskarð is situated between the mighty waterfalls of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river (which include Europe’s most powerful waterfall, Dettifoss) and the Lake Mývatn area, making it a natural part of anyone’s itinerary if they are exploring the north from Akureyri or Mývatn.
Those travelling the Diamond Circle are also encouraged to make a stop here if they have time.
Lagarfjlót is a narrow lake in the east of Iceland, also known as Lögurinn.
This feature is best known for its natural beauty, its fishing, and its folklore.
Folklore at Lagarfjlót
No doubt the most fascinating thing about Lake Lagarfjlót is its folklore, and the feature has long attracted the superstitious to East Iceland.
According to legend, the deep lake is said to hold a beast called the Lagarfljót Wyrm, a cousin of the Loch Ness Monster with a lot more history. While the earliest significant records of Nessie go back to the 1870s, the Lagarfjlót Wyrm has been spoken about since 1345.
Even today, videos and photos emerge of disruption at the surface of the lake, said to be the venom spitting beast. While most are attributed to logs, currents, ice and wind, there are a few that have experts puzzled, with no concrete answer as to what they could be.
As such a little culture has arisen around the lake, and you can see figurines and sculptures depicting different interpretations of this elusive serpent.
Of course, however, there has been no concrete evidence to suggest anything lives in the lake other than trout and other fish. If you are interested in fishing for these, you will need a license.
Sites near Lagarfljót
Any visitor to East Iceland will no doubt see Lagarfljót, as it is located right next to the Capital of the East, Egilsstaðir. This is the region’s largest town and its commerce centre. Many of its accommodation options are set against the lake edge.
Iceland’s largest forest, Hallormsstaðaskógur, also sits on its shores. This is an amazing place for birdwatching, and where the forest and lake meet, one can find a wealth of ducks, geese and other water birds.
Lake Lagarfljót is also near to the beautiful falls Hengifoss. This is Iceland’s third tallest waterfall, with a height of 128 metres (420 feet).
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo Credit: Cristophe L Hess
Hallormsstaðaskógur is Iceland's largest national forest, found in East Iceland near Egilsstaðir. The area is a famous for its pleasant hiking trails, wildlife and collection of tree species.
Development and Nature
For a largely treeless landscape, a forest in Iceland is something of an enigma. The nation was once covered in woodland, but the overuse of wood saunas by the early settlers, followed by several great volcanic eruptions, meant that for centuries, the land has been quite barren.
However, the reforestation service of Iceland has sought to change this. It cares for 53 patches of public access land, most of which are easily accessible for travellers on the Ring Road. Hallormsstaðaskógur is their largest success story, with trees covering 740 square kilometres (286 square miles).
Initial experiments in planting trees began as early as 1903, though large scale cultivation truly began in 1950. In 1905, Hallormsstaðaskógur was labelled a protected forest. Ever since then, the forest has been greatly venerated by the local population as an area of respite from the often barren, volcanic terrain of the island.
Common tree species include native dwarf birch and mountain birch, as well as over 80 different species of tree brought from 177 locations overseas.
Birds such as redpolls, goldcrests and ravens all use the forest as a sanctuary from predators, with red wings, snipes and meadow pipits joining the fray in the summer months. The area also presents opportunities for botany, as well as berry and mushroom picking. Streams running through the forest are perfectly drinkable spring water.
To Do
In June, Hallormsstaðaskógur hosts Skógardagurinn, or “Forest Day”, a weekend of accordion music, active festivities and competitions amongst the birch trees. Here, festival-goers can enjoy logging competitions, grilled lamb served by local farmers, art exhibitions and even mini-marathons (one 4 kilometres (2.5 miles) long, the other 14 kilometres (nine miles).
The Skógardagurinn celebrations are a fantastic treat for all the family and provide great insight into the culture of Iceland’s less visited regions.
There are two camping areas in Hallormsstaðaskógur: Atlavík, located in the picturesque tree cover of the inner-forest, and Höfðavík, a site providing a more luxurious standard of service for visitors.
Hallormsstaðaskógur is located near to the town of Egilsstaðir, the capital of East Iceland, and the perfect point from which to explore the region.
The South Coast of Iceland is one of the most popular parts of the country for travellers. South Iceland is lined with countless natural wonders including cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, glaciers and black sand beaches.
This incredible South Shore of Iceland stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east. It’s possible to incorporate a trip to The Golden Circle before heading South. This is another popular area with visitors to Iceland. Here you can see Þingvellir (or Thingvellir) National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, a volcanic crater called Kerið, and one of Iceland's biggest waterfalls; Gulfoss.
Highlights of the South Coast of Iceland
The South Coast offers an array of natural wonders that draw thousands of visitors each day.
The whole area is geologically very young, formed during the last Ice Age by the lava flows from numerous volcanoes in the area. The lowlands are surrounded by volcanically active mountains, notably Eyjafjallajökull and Hekla. If you stop at Hveragerði, you can visit the Quake 2008 exhibition where you can witness the split in the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.
In terms of culture in the South, it is rich and diverse. Most towns have amateur groups for theatre, poetry reading, and choir song. Community is a big part of an Icelander’s life and one of the key things that help them get through the winter months. The South was once home to the ancient bishop seat of Skálholt. Also, Iceland's most famous saga, Njal's Saga, takes place in the region.
When driving the South Coast route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. These falls which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean from these beautiful cascades. Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall.
Skógar, which is home to Skogafoss waterfall, has a very interesting museum that discusses some of the nation’s history and culture. One of Iceland’s most famous hiking trails, Fímmvörðuháls, cuts through the area and is worth the walk if you have time.
A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull glacier, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the glacier tongue, Sólheimajökull.
This landscape has also been shaped by volcanic eruptions, although these were much more recent. Vast expanses of the black sand stretch from the Highlands to the sea, part of several glacial outwash plains that flood during a volcanic eruption. One such sandplain, Sólheimasandur, is home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck.
The Dyrhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.
Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, which is home to basalt columns and the Reynisdrangar rock formations. These pillars are said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun.
Though beautiful, this area is notorious for its dangerous sneaker waves. Even on seemingly calm and still days, visitors should keep a distance from the shoreline. There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.
After passing through Vík you will cross the glacial sandplain of Skeiðarársandur before entering Vatnajökull National Park. Here you can see Vatnajokull Glacier, Iceland’s largest glacier. Many ice cave tours take place in Vatnajokull in the winter months.
Move on to the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve in the National Park. Here you can enjoy a diversity of landscapes and terrains. The area was considered a National Park in its own right because it was so beautiful.
Finally, you will approach the famous Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon, a deep lake that fills with icebergs as the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier slowly breaks down. Here there are plenty of options for boat tours that take you around the lagoon and up close to icebergs. A short distance from Jökulsárlón you will find the Diamond Beach, where blue icebergs wash on the black-sand beach, and another glacier lagoon called Fjallsárlón.
Geography, Nature & Wildlife
The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Ring Road (Route 1), which encircles Iceland. The area is made up of diverse landscapes; marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.
Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Reaching several hundred metres offshore, it provides a protective factor to the lowland as ocean waves crash upon it. This results in the South Shore being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shoreline.
Unlike most early Icelandic settlements, few of the communities in the south were based on fishing. The only town with a significant harbour in the south is Þorlákshöfn, where the ferry to the Westman Islands leaves. Some agriculture is found here, with farms nestled in the mountains, but because of the glacial floods, they are few and far between.
There are, however, plenty of hot springs in the area. The most famous is the Blue Lagoon Spa which is close to Keflavik airport. The lagoon formed as a result of the overflow from a nearby power plant.
However, there are lots of natural geothermal hot springs in more remote locations, where you can avoid the crowds and have a more natural experience. Some of the spots travellers recommend are Seljavallalaug, which is close to Skogar, and Reykjadalur, the Valley of Steam, which is close to Hveragerði.
The South region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey.
You may be able to spot North Atlantic puffins nesting on the cliffs between May and August. In summer there are 2-3 times as many Arctic Tern as Icelanders so you are bound to spot some of them on your travels. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.
Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.
In terms of sports; horse riding is popular, as is fishing, hiking, snorkelling, sightseeing and river rafting.
The Diamond Beach is a strip of black sand belonging to the greater Breiðamerkursandur glacial plain, located by Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon on the South Coast of Iceland.
Here, the icebergs which fill Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon wash up on shore, standing dazzling and defiant in stark contrast to the black sand beach. It is, therefore, a favourite amongst photographers, nature-lovers, and wildlife-enthusiasts. Many seals call this beach home, and it is one of the best places in the country to see orcas from the shore.
Breiðamerkursandur
Breiðamerkursandur is a glacial outwash plain located in the municipality of Hornafjörður. The sand stretches approximately 18 kilometres along Iceland’s South Coast, more specifically from the foot of Kvíárjökull Glacier to the famed glacier lagoon Jökulsárlón, that nests by the foot of Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier.
Both glaciers make up part of the 30 outlets of Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest ice cap and the central feature of the Vatnajökull National Park. Many of these are seen en route to the Diamond Beach as you travel along the South Coast.
The outwash plain was formed when three of Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers, Breiðamerkurjökull, Hrútárjökull and Fjallsjökull, flowed forward due to volcanic activity and ground the rocks of the underlying surface, creating and pushing forward the glacial sediments.
Such sand plains are a common part of the Icelandic landscape, due to the island being volcanically active as well as boasting numerous ice caps. The terminus (the tip of a given glacier) also dug deep into the ground and left what is now the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Although now the deepest lake in all of Iceland, it only began to form in 1935.
The glacier lagoon and Diamond Beach are fantastical sites, however, the rate of their expansion is, unfortunately, a consequence of climate change. With the rate that the glaciers are melting, there may be no ice left at either site within decades.
Jökulsárlón Icebergs
Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon is one of the most famed and visited attractions in Iceland. Floating on the lagoon are enumerable icebergs that have broken off the resident glacier, creating an ever-changing scenery of incredible allure.
The river Jökulsá connects the lagoon to the Atlantic Ocean, meaning that these icebergs eventually drift out to sea where they are polished by the waves before floating back to the black sands of Breiðamerkursandur. The name ‘Diamond Beach’ thus comes from the white ice on the black sand appearing like gemstones or diamonds, as they often glisten in the sun and sharply contrast their jet black surroundings.
Safety at the Diamond Beach
The Diamond Beach is a safe place for any responsible traveller; unlike at Reynisfjara, another South Coast black-sand-beach, sneaker waves and rip currents are not notorious for whisking unwitting tourists out to sea. However, there are still dangers to consider.
The main one of these is the icebergs themselves. Under no circumstance should you climb upon an iceberg, due to their slippery surfaces and sharp edges.
This is especially the case if the iceberg is at all in the water, as it could flip and trap you underneath, or else be pulled out to sea by a current with you on it.
The risk of injury and illness in the form of hypothermia is so great that extortionate fines exist to deter any ‘rebels’ looking for a thrill-seek. These have only come about due to serious incidents, to protect not only tourists at the lagoon but guides and staff who may feel obligated to embark on a dangerous rescue if they see someone at risk.
Iceland has one main road: Route 1, or the Icelandic Ring Road. This ring road goes all around the island and is 1,332 kilometres long (828 miles), allowing visitors to see all regions bar the Westfjords and Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Perhaps most importantly, the road connects the capital, Reykjavík, to the second biggest city in Iceland, Akureyri, in the north of the country.
Other notable towns that are connected via the ring road are Borgarnes, Blönduós, Egilsstaðir, Höfn, Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Vík, Hella, Hvolsvöllur, Selfoss and Hveragerði.
Features on the Ring Road
A number of popular tourist attractions are also found by the ring road. In the south, drivers will pass the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss; the glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull; the black-sand-beach of Reynisfjara, and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.
In the east, there is the largest forest in Iceland, Hallormsstaðaskógur, and the lake Lagarfljót, said to contain a monster, records for which date back centuries before the Loch Ness Monster.
In the north, the most notable features are Lake Mývatn and Goðafoss waterfall. In the west are many historical settlements and beautiful fjords.
History of the Ring Road
The road was completed in 1974, with the opening of Iceland's longest bridge, which crosses Skeiðará river in southeast Iceland. In 1998 a tunnel below the fjord Hvalfjörður shortened the drive around Iceland by about one hour and it offers a straight and easy alternative to a winding fjord.
The Hvalfjörður tunnel is the largest tunnel in Iceland, 5.8 kilometres (3.6 miles) long and an impressive 165 metres (541 feet) below sea level. The ring road has two other tunnels; Almannaskarð in the southeast by Höfn, and the Vaðlaheiðar tunnel in north Iceland which shortens the drive from Akureyri to Húsavík by 16km.
In wintertime, The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration tries to keep all of the Ring Road is kept open. However, parts of it can be closed in extreme weather.
Good to Know
The ring road consists mainly of paved two lanes road (one each direction). Some sections of the ring road are original 1940s country roads demanding caution when driving with features such as many sharp curves, blind curves, blind summits as well as single lane bridges.
The speed limit is 90km per hour on the paved section of the road (lower when it passes through towns), and 80km per hour on gravel.
The ring-road can be driven in a two-wheel-drive throughout the year, but it is highly recommended you rent a four-wheel-drive if travelling between October and May.
Guide to Iceland would advise people to drive cautiously on the ring road both in summer and wintertime, but also to explore other roads leading from it to multiple attractions. Be sure that if you want to stop to take a picture, make sure you have turned off into a safe parking area. Stopping on the Ring Road itself can be very dangerous for you and other travellers using it.
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