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Reykjavik is the capital of Iceland and the northernmost capital of a sovereign state in the world.

Despite a small population (120.000 and more than 200.000 in the Greater Reykjavik area), it is a vibrant city that draws an ever increasing number of visitors. It is the financial, cultural and governmental center of Iceland. It also has a reputation of being one of the cleanest and safest cities in the world.

Geography

The city of Reykjavik is located in southwest Iceland by the creek of the same name. Throughout the ages, the landscape has been shaped by glaciers, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and the area is geothermal.  Much of the current city area area was subglacial during the Ice Age, with the glacier reaching as far as the Alftanes peninsula, while other areas lay under the sea.  After the end of the ice age the land rose as the glaciers drifted away, and it began to take on its present form.

The coastline of Reykjavik is set with peninsulas, coves, straights and islands, most notably the island of Videy, and seabirds and whales frequent the shores. The mountain ring as seen from the shore is particularly beautiful. Mount Esja is the highest mountain in the vicinity of Reykjavik and lends its distinct feature to the whole area. This majestic mountain is also highly popular for climbing. Other notable mountains that can be seen from the seaside are Akrafjall and Skardsheidi and on clear days one may even see as far to the legendary Snaefellsjokull glacier, at the end of the Snafellsnes peninsula.

The largest river to run through the city is Ellidaa in Ellidaardalur valley, which is also one of Iceland‘s best rivers for salmon fishing.

Transportion

There are no trains or trams in Iceland, but most people travel by car. The city also operates a bus system. There are two major harbours in town, the old harbour in the center and Sundahofn in the east. The domestic Reykjavik Airport is located at Vatnsmyrin, not far from the city center and close to Oskjuhlid and Perlan. The international  Keflavik Airport at Midnesheidi heath then lies around 50 km from the city. Cars, jeeps and bicycles can be readily rented in the city and many organized tours are also being offered.

What to See & Do in Reykjavik

The local arts scene is strong in Iceland, with both annual events and single ones, many of whom have hit the international stage. For the annual ones please check our articles Best Annual Events in Iceland and the Top Ten Festivals in Iceland. Major events taking place in Reykjavik include the Iceland Airwaves, Gay Pride, RIFF (The Reykjavik International Film Festival), The Reykjavik Literature Festival, Cultural Night, the Reykjavik Arts Festival, Food & Fun, the Reykjavik Fashion Festival and the Sónar music festival.

Among famous people from Reykjavik are artists Bjork Gudmundsdottir, Sigur Ros, writers Halldor Laxness (born in Laugarvegur) and Arnaldur Indridason and mayor Jon Gnarr. For more well-known and fairly-well known Icelanders, check our article on the subject.

You might also want to check our article on some of the many things to see and do in Reykjavik, such as visiting the city‘s many museums, exhibitions and galleries, checking out live music, visiting the Harpa music hall or the theaters, visiting the lighthouse at Grotta, the main shopping street of Laugavegur, visiting the old harbour and the flea market, going on a bird- and whalewatching tour or visiting Videy island. We also have a top ten list of things to do.

Make sure to visit the publis square of Austurvollur, one of the city‘s most popular gathering places, where you‘ll also find the national parliament, Althingi, the state church a statue of independence hero Jon Sigurdson, as well as cafés, bars and restaurants. Austurvollur was central in the 2008 protests, along with Laekjargata, home to the House of Government. You are also not likely to miss the great church of Hallgrimskirkja that towers over the city from the hill of Skolavorduholt, wherefrom you‘ll get a great view of the city.

 Try a walk by the city pond, greet the many birds that frequent the area and visit the city hall, stationed by its banks. The Hljomaskalagardur is a beautiful park that lies by the pond, it ideal for a nice walk and sometimes concerts get held there. Further off is the campus of the university of Iceland, the Nordic house and the Vatnsmyri wetland, a particularly pleasant place, but be mindful of not disturbing the wildlife there and keep to the pathways.

 For a nice swim on a warm day, we particularly recommend Nautholsvik beach.

Visit the Laugardalur valley, home to one of the city‘s best swimming pools, as well as the Asmundarsafn gallery, a beautiful botanical garden and a domestic zoo. A walk by the Aegissida beach, with it‘s old fishing sheds, in the west part of Reykjavik also holds a particular charm. The aforementioned Elllidaardalur valley is also a popular resort.  

Another place that offers one of the city‘s best (and free) views is Perlan, up in Oskjuhlid hill. The hill itself is a popular resort, with over 176.000 trees and great opportunities for walking and cycling.

Travel to Alftanes to see the president‘s house at Bessastadir, which is also a historical site in it‘s own right, having been the educational center of Iceland for centuries. Nearby is a beautiful lava field, Galgahraun, well worth a visit, though there is currently an environmental struggle going on as to it‘s future state.

The city is furthermore a short drive from many of Iceland‘s major attractions, most famously the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. In close vicinity you‘ll also find the Heidmork preservation area, a favorite passtime resort of the people of Reykjavik, as well as the Blue Mountains, one of Iceland‘s most beloved skiing venues.

Check our Best of Reykjavik guide further for tips on the best cheap things to do in Reykjavik, some of the best restaurants in the city, happy hours, the top ten value places to eat and our two articles on the famous Reykjavik nightlife; Nightlife in Reykjavik and Nightlife and mating.

Finally, we‘d like to stress that these are only some suggestions of the many things you might check out in Reykjavik. Whatever you choose to do, we hope you‘ll be able to make the most of your visit and we wish you a pleasant stay in our capital.

Faxaflói is a large bay in west Iceland, between the Reykjanes and Snӕfellsnes Peninsula. It faces Reykjavík, and is a hot spot for puffin and whale watching.

Activities in Faxaflói Bay

Whale watching tours head into Faxaflói from Reykjavík throughout the year. Throughout the summer, the most commonly seen species are Minke and Humpback whales, while Harbour Porpoises and White-Beaked Dolphins are seen year-round. Other species are seen on occasion, including Orcas and Blue Whales.

From May to September, some of these tours include a puffin-watching segment to the islands of Lundey and Akurey, where visitors can see them nesting on the rocks and bobbing in the water.

Another island, Viðey, can easily be visited throughout the year by boat, with tickets included on the Reykjavík City Card. It is home to the Yoko Ono Peace Tower.

Sea-angling is also popular in Faxaflói, and it is possible to rent a rod and fish from Reykjavík Harbour.

Faxaflói Bay from Reykjavík

Faxaflói Bay is a beautiful feature of Iceland’s capital, visible from much of the city. Many of Reykjavík’s greatest landmarks have it as their backdrop, as they hug the coastline.

Harpa Concert Hall, for example, is an incredible feat of modern architecture that juts out into the water. The Sun Voyager is a popular statue that also looks out to the sea.

In decent weather, visitors can see some of Iceland’s most beautiful nature across Faxaflói. Mount Esjan is the most dominant feature, but when it is especially clear, it is possible to see the Reykjanes and Snӕfellsnes Peninsulas.

Hválfjörður is a fjord in southwest Iceland. The fjord is approximately 30 kilometres (19 miles) long and five (three miles) kilometres wide.

Nature and Landscape

The landscape of Hválfjörður is varied and beautiful, with wide areas of flat land along majestic mountains, green vegetation in summer and beaches cut with by creeks.

The area is rich in birdlife and is home to seals, but despite its name, which translates to ‘Whale Fjord’, it is not known for its whale or dolphin population. Two theories exist on how it got its name; either that it was once home to whales before fish stocks moved away, or because of the general shape of the bay.

The area has recently been part of Iceland’s successful reforestation effort. 

Natural attractions in the area are plentiful, but most significant is Iceland's highest waterfall, Glýmur, in the river Botnsá. There are also plenty of interesting hiking trails in the area, such as Sildarmannagotur, leading north, and Leggjabrjotur, leading east towards the area of Þingvellir National Park. 

History and Culture

Historically, Hválfjörður was home to one of the main whaling stations in Iceland, with ships heading out into Fáxaflói Bay. It was one of the most important naval stations in the North Atlantic during World War Two, when Iceland was occupied by the Allies, after the Nazis conquered Denmark.

The old whaling station and a war museum can be found in the fjord. 

Iceland's main psalm poet, Hallgrímur Pétursson, writer of the ‘Passia Hymns' lived in Hválfjörður. The area was also the home of the late Sveinbjörn Beinteinsson, rhymes poet and performer and head of the Icelandic pagan association. 

Economy

Most inhabitants of the fjord live in rural areas, and there is some farming in the area. Until the 1990s those travelling between Borgarnes and Reykjavík had to take a long detour around the fjord, but this was solved with a tunnel that travels beneath it, finished in 1998.

Grundartangi spit in Hválfjörður has one of the largest harbours in the country and two industrial plants. One is a ferrosilicon plant, operated since 1979, the other an aluminium smelter, operated since 1998.

Both of these were controversial during their construction, and continue to be controversial during their ongoing operation. Along with whaling and hydroelectric dams, smelters and silicone plants are the hottest environmental debates going on in Iceland.

The flat-topped mountain Esja, often called Esjan, is Iceland’s most popular destination for day hiking. It is situated in Kjalarnes in the south-west corner of Iceland.

Only 10 kilometres (6 miles) from the city of Reykjavík across Faxaflói Bay, the mountain is a dominant feature of the capital’s skyline. In reality, Esja is not a true mountain in itself, but a volcanic range, the highest peak of which reaches 914 metres (2,999 feet) tall.

Geology and History

Esja's formation dates back to the beginning of the last Ice Age. Magma rising from eruptions formed layers of lava beneath a glacier, and when the ice retreated, it ground much of it away and left the mountain in its current form.

The volcano is no longer active, so it has little changed since.

Since Iceland is situated on the boundary between two tectonic plates, Eurasia and North America, the continuous tension pushes the sedimentary soil to the west. This makes the western part of the range the oldest (at about 3.2 million years) and the eastern part the youngest (at about 1.8 million years).

Esja is composed of basalt and tuff rock. It has quite a lot of vegetation for an Icelandic peak, with many lupin and wildflower fields across it in summer.

Recently, Esja has been the site of several concerts, with helicopters taking music-lovers up to the peak for a great show beneath the midnight sun.

Hiking and precautionary measures

Because of the mountain's proximity to the capital city (less than an hour by car, or accessible by taking two regular buses), Esja is an extremely popular hiking destination for locals and visitors alike. The path up the mountain is divided into different sections, with signs indicating the difficulty of each route.

The most well-known paths lead to the separate summits of Þverfellshorn (780 metres or 2,560 feet) and Kerhólakambur (851 metres or 2,790 feet).

The highest point is called Hábunga and requires an additional three-kilometre trek northeast from Þverfellshorn. Approximately 200 metres (656 ft) from the top, hikers find themselves at a large rock named Steinn where they are faced with three options: continuing on the marked trail, climbing directly to the peak, or simply enjoying the great views before descending.

When hiking Esja, it is important to be equipped with proper hiking gear, with a good knowledge of your capabilities. Amateur hikers should only take a simple route, and only expert climbers should try to scale Steinn.

It is also imperative that you get the weather forecast ahead of arrival, so you know what precautions to take.

Avalanches and accidents can and do claim lives; in fact, according to the Iceland Touring Association, Esja holds the record for the most accidents in Icelandic nature. There are several incidents here a year, especially through winter with ice, rain and heavy fog, several of which have resulted in death.

This is largely due to its popularity, as if you take necessary precautions and do not push your limits, however, you minimise the risk to yourself dramatically.

If you take a path you know you can do in clear weather, at your own pace and in appropriate clothing, then you can hike confidently

Reykjavík Harbour refers to the Old Harbour and is located close to the centre of the city. It is the main port of departure for whale and puffin watching tours, as well as Northern Lights cruises.

The original purpose of the old harbour was for fisheries and trade; the consequences of the latter is why Reykjavík has such a disproportionately high population when compared to the rest of the country, and why it became the capital. These industries, while still important have given way to tourism in recent years.

Tours from Reykjavik Harbour

Many tours leave from Reykjavík Harbour, some going on throughout the year. The most notable of these are the whale-watching tours. Leaving multiple times a day, the vessels cruise into Faxaflói Bay, where an abundance of creatures dwell. Year-round, harbour porpoises and white-beaked dolphins reside, with the occasional Minke Whale that forgot to follow its migration route. In summer, these are much more abundant, alongside Humpback Whales.

It is also possible, but not common, to see Blue, Fin, Sei and Beaked Whales on these tours, as well as the magnificent Orca (which, unlike the others, prefers to visit in winter).

In summer, puffin watching tours are also available. These go to the isles of Lundy and Akurey, just offshore, where they nest in the thousands. These tours come with binoculars for a close-up view and can sometimes be added onto whale-watching excursions.

In winter, Northern Lights Cruises can offer some of the best opportunities to see the aurora borealis in complete peace and darkness. If visiting over New Year, it is also possible to take a boat out to see the incredible fireworks over Reykjavík.

Sea anglers can also take tours from the Old Harbour, and there are rod rentals on the pier for those who would rather stay routed on lands. Some of the nearby fish restaurants will be happy to cook up your catch for you.

Museums around Reykjavik Harbour

Not only do many tours leave from the Old Harbour, but it is close to many of the city’s most popular museums. The Reykjavík Maritime Museum, for example, is a perfect place to learn about Iceland’s seafaring history and the brave and brutal men and women who populated the island. The Whales of Iceland exhibition, meanwhile, allows guests to better understand the two dozen species of cetacean that call the waters here home.

These museums are all perfect for children, and many are discounted or free with a Reykjavík city card.

Views from Reykjavik Harbour

The views the Old Harbour are some of the best in Reykjavík. Across Faxaflói Bay, passed the docked sailing boats, are a wealth of natural landscapes. To the north is the flat-topped Mount Esja, the most popular hiking spot in the country, and in very clear weather, you’ll be able to see the stunning Snæfellsnes Peninsula and its crowning glacier.

Looking southward, you will also see the volcanic peaks of the Reykjanes Peninsula. Of course, within view are many of the landmarks of the capital, such as the Harpa Concert Hall.