3 great reasons for visiting beautiful Hofsós (besides the fact that it's beautiful)
Hofsós, located on the banks of Skagafjörður fjord in north Iceland, is a historic trading port overlooking the stunning island of Drangey, which rises almost vertical out of the sea in the distance. It’s a friendly little village, that comes alive in the summer with tourists, hikers and seasonal residents. Personally I think the view is reason enough to visit, but if you prefer something more hands-on, here are three more.
The Icelandic Emigration Centre (Vesturfarasetrið)
This wonderful museum details the mass emigration of Icelanders to North America in the late 1800s. As many readers will know, life in Iceland in centuries past was marked by extreme poverty, oppression, and natural disasters and epidemics that caused widespread famine and death. It was all pretty horrific. (You can read all about it here, plug plug.) So when the opportunity arose for Icelanders to emigrate en masse to North America in the late-1800s, many jumped at the chance.
However, this was no fail-safe solution, and the life that awaited people in the new country was sometimes just as hard as life in the old. The Icelandic Emigration Centre is bears testimony to that whole period in Icelandic history, largely through people’s individual stories, which are completely captivating. On more than one occasion I was deeply moved and awestruck when I read about the strength, diligence and fates of some of the people.
I have heard people say that they find the museum too text-based, but personally I was fascinated and could have stayed there for hours. There are also illustrations and exhibits designed to bring to life various aspects of people’s lives, both in Iceland and the new world. A great museum for anyone, and a must for anyone of Western Icelandic descent.
A boat cruise on Skagafjörður
Near Hofsós there are amazing geological formations that can only seen from the sea. Most of them are on the sea side of the Þórðarhöfði promontory that juts out into the sea with a sheer drop at the end down to the water. Here's a view of Þórðarhöfði from Kolkuós, where we stayed:
We went with a company called Haf og land, run by Ingvar Daði Jóhannesson and his Austrian wife Barbara Wenzl, that operates out of Hofsós. After cruising slowly past the gorgeous formations near the promontory we headed out to the island of Málmey (Mineral Island) to view the puffins from the sea (Málmey is home to one of the largest puffin colonies in Iceland). Here are some of the formations we saw en route (sadly the photos don't capture all the nuances, so you may have to lean in close):
Then, on the way back, it was time for the real fun - sea angling, aka “catch your own dinner”. Believe me, that sea is teeming with fish. One of the women in our group caught two big codfish on one line less than five minutes after casting it out, and she just kept hauling them in after that. Aldís and I managed to catch a three cod between us, and when we got back to shore, Ingvar Daði’s father Jóhann gutted and fileted them for us. Such a great day, with great people.
Incidentally, a couple of days prior to our trip, one of their guests took this video, showing a humpback whale doing jumps and generally frolicking in the fjord. We were hoping he would make a comeback when we were there, but alas he did not. Still, I’m told it’s not an uncommon occurrence, and that whales can even be seen from my next great Hofsós location, which is ...
The Hofsós swimming pool
This gorgeous pool, which opened a couple of years ago, was a gift to the town by two heiresses who live in the area - of the Hagkaup and BYKO fortunes, respectively (if that tells you anything). Rather than building private pools at their own residences they decided to finance the construction of a pool in the town, for everyone to enjoy (and to frequent it themselves). The design is magnificent - it’s an infinity pool, meaning that while you are swimming you have the impression of it stretching on into the ocean beyond. Definitely worth a visit.
WHERE WE STAYED
Our lodgings should really make up the fourth great reason to visit Hofsós. We stayed at Kolkuós a historic trading port with a natural harbour. In the past it was the site of much vibrant activity, but today it is an incredibly secluded, tranquil place (barring the very active bird life). Its history is incredible and too lengthy to relate here, but I will say that the house in which we stayed was due for demolition and the entire site was supposed to be turned into a garbage dump for north Iceland.
Through the efforts of the current owners, however, the house - which in the past was owned by a couple who were known to take in terminally ill persons to allow them to die with dignity - has been turned into very luxurious accommodation, with four absolutely beautiful rooms, all with en suite bath. It has just opened, and the owners have wonderful plans for the area, foreseeing to create custom experiences for groups, including horse riding (Skagafjörður is renowned for its horses), cultural readings or presentations, healing spa programs, yoga retreats, or whatever.
It is a completely inspirational place with a rich sense of the past, recommended for anyone who wants something exclusive and tailor-made to their own interests and desires.
For more information, contact the owners of Kolkuós, and be sure to check out their website for pictures. And because I can't help myself, here is one of my own, taken from the house just before midnight on the night we were there:
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요쿨살론부터 비크까지, 꽃보다 청춘 5화
드디어 하늘씨과 쓰리스톤즈가 합류했는데요! 설원을 달리는 모습에 저도 아이슬란드가 엄청 그리워졌답니다. 빙하와 빛나는 요쿨살론 첫번째로 향한 요쿨살론(Jokulsarlon)은 아이슬란드의 대표적인 명소 중 하나랍니다. 영어로 Glacier lagoon 이라고도 하는데요. 방송에 나온 것처럼 눈 앞에 보이는 빙하는 빙하수가 흘러서 녹았다 얼었다를더 보기스코가포스 폭포부터 오로라까지, 꽃보다청춘 4화를 따라서
여행 5일째, 포스톤즈가 처음으로 향한 곳은 아이슬란드 남부에 있는 스코가포스 폭포(skogasfoss)입니다. 아이슬란드 남부의 대표적인 폭포 중 하나에요. 방송에서는 들르지 않았지만 스코가포스 거의 바로 옆에 위치한 셀리야란드스포스(seljalandsfoss) 폭포와 함께 같이 들르곤 한답니다. 스코가포스 폭포는 폭포의 물줄기 끝까지 올라갈 수 있단더 보기꽃청춘을 따라서
요즘 인기리에 방영되고 있는 꽃보다 청춘 아이슬란드편! 저도 매주 빼놓지 않고 시청하고 있습니다. 많은 분들께서 포스톤즈의 발랄한 매력과 아이슬란드의 놀라운 경치에 빠져드셨을 것 같습니다! 이번에는 꽃보다 청춘을 따라서 아이슬란드를 한번 가보도록 해요! 사실 아이슬란드가 한국에서 그렇게 가기 쉬운 나라는 아닙니다. 거리도 멀고 항공권도 비싸고! 우더 보기
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