Guide de Voyage : Hlemmur

Hlemmur is a long-time fixture of Reykjavík’s capital region, serving for the past century as a central transportation hub. Hlemmur now houses a colorful bazaar of world cuisine, nestled among museums, galleries, and shops.  

Hlemmur is an iconic landmark in Reykjavik and has undergone significant transformations over the years. Once a central bus terminal and gathering spot, it has evolved into a vibrant cultural and culinary hub, capturing the spirit of the city’s growth.

The lively neighborhood around Hlemmur in Reykjavik is a vibrant area known for its good food and unique character. With a range of accommodations nearby, including modern hotels and cozy guesthouses, the area near Hlemmur is an ideal base for experiencing Reykjavik’s dynamic energy and local flavors.

If you want to learn more about this part of Reykjavik, there are multiple guided tours available that showcase Iceland’s vibrant capital, giving you insights into city's history and character. This walking tour offers a close-up experience of Reykjavik’s highlights, such as Hallgrímskirkja church, Harpa Concert Hall, and the Old Harbour. At the same time, local guides share fascinating stories about the city’s history and culture.

While Hlemmur has a long history as a place of gathering in the city of Reykjavik, for most of its history it wasn't the trendy hotspot it is now.

In recent years, Hlemmur was revitalized with the opening of Hlemmur Matholl, a popular food hall that attracts locals and visitors. With Reykjavik’s new transit system, Borgarlína, Hlemmur no longer serves as the final bus stop. Still, it remains a bustling space where history, community, and modern Icelandic culture come together in the heart of the capital.

A Name That Reflect Reykjavik’s Heritage

Hlemmur (Icelandic for “pot lid”) traces its name to a small bridge that crossed the nearby creek, Raudararlaekur. At the turn of the twentieth century, a cistern was constructed, transforming Hlemmur into an indispensable roadside stop for travelers on horseback.

Sigurjón Ólafsson’s famous sculpture, “Pack Horse” (“Klyfjahestur”), has overlooked Hlemmur Square from its easternmost corner since 2005 in commemoration of the area’s vital role in transportation.

Architecture and Change Overtime

Photo by Ljosmyndasafn Reykjavikur. No edits were made.

In the early 1970s, architect Gunnar Hansson designed Hlemmur’s distinctive building in the high-tech style that was popular at the time, focusing on open spaces and a sleek, industrial look. When Hlemmur officially opened in 1978, it was a bustling hub filled with small market stalls and shops that catered to Reykjavik’s locals. However, over the years, the spacious, open floor plan led to maintenance challenges, and the shops gradually moved out, leaving the space less active.

By the 1980s, Hlemmur had transformed into an unofficial gathering place for the city’s punk rock scene and those down on their luck, becoming an emblem of Reykjavik's raw, unpolished urban life.

During the 1990s and early 2000s, it was frequented by the city's outcasts, vagrants, and those less fortunate, giving it a bad reputation.

Filmmaker Ólafur Sveinsson documented this complex social dynamic in his 2002 documentary Hlemmur, which captured both the gritty reality and the spirit of community that defined Hlemmur during this era, highlighting its role in Reykjavik’s cultural history. The soundtrack of the film was written and performed by the popular Icelandic band Sigur Rós.

Bars and Restaurants around Hlemmur

In 2017, Hlemmur underwent a remarkable transformation that revived the original vision of its architect, bringing new life to one of Reykjavik’s iconic spaces. Previously a bustling bus terminal and later a vacant building, Hlemmur was reborn as Hlemmur Matholl, Reykjavik’s first food hall, quickly becoming a culinary landmark in the city.

This revitalization not only preserved Hlemmur’s historic architecture but also created a welcoming space for locals and travelers to gather, eat, and unwind. Hlemmur Matholl now stands as a symbol of Reykjavik’s evolving food culture and urban renaissance, embodying the city's blend of tradition, innovation, and community.

However, aside from this bustling food market, several options are adjacent to the main hub, like the brand-new apartment hotel Hlemmur Suites.

Nearby Museums and Galleries

Hlemmur isn’t just a foodie hotspot; it’s also a cultural hub, home to various museums and galleries showcasing Icelandic creativity. Just down the street along Raudararstigur, you’ll find Gallerí Fold, one of Reykjavik’s premier art galleries. Gallerí Fold welcomes visitors with exhibitions of contemporary Icelandic art. It even hosts online and in-person art auctions, offering the chance to take home a unique piece of Icelandic artistry.

Continuing along Raudararstigur, you’ll come across Kjarvalsstadir, a gallery dedicated to one of Iceland’s most celebrated artists, Jóhannes Sveinsson Kjarval. Kjarvalsstadir is part of the Reykjavik Art Museum and showcases works by Kjarval and other prominent Icelandic artists, making it a must-visit for modern art enthusiasts.

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• Check out the Top 12 Art Museums and Galleries in Reykjavik

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Hlemmur’s Transformation

Hlemmur, once a major bus hub and final stop for many routes in Reykjavik, has shifted its role with the upcoming arrival of "Borgarlína" (CityLine), Reykjavik’s new rapid transit system. Borgarlína is part of an ambitious infrastructure project aimed at creating faster, more efficient public transport across the capital area, reducing traffic congestion, and promoting sustainable travel.

As a result, Hlemmur no longer functions as the end bus stop it once was. Instead, it has transformed into a vibrant urban center, with Hlemmur Matholl serving as a popular food hall and community space. With Borgarlína, public transportation is set to become more accessible and interconnected, linking various parts of Reykjavik and its surrounding suburbs.

This development marks a significant step forward in Reykjavik’s urban planning, emphasizing sustainability and accessibility. Hlemmur now thrives as a lively neighborhood hub, no longer the city’s end stop but still central to Reykjavik’s evolving landscape. If you’re planning to use the bus service, be sure to visit Straeto's website or app to plan your trip.

What is Hlemmur, and where is it located?

Hlemmur is a long-time fixture in Reykjavik, Iceland, and originally served as a central transportation hub in the city. Located in Reykjavik’s capital region, Hlemmur is now a vibrant neighborhood filled with food and culture.

What is Hlemmur Matholl?

Hlemmur Matholl, Reykjavik’s first food hall, opened in 2017. It transformed the former bus terminal into a culinary hub, offering a variety of global and Icelandic cuisines in a lively marketplace atmosphere. It’s a popular gathering spot for both locals and visitors.

How did Hlemmur get its name?

Hlemmur (Icelandic for “pot lid”) was named after a small bridge over the Raudararlaekur creek. In the early 20th century, the area became a critical roadside stop for travelers. Sigurjón Ólafsson’s sculpture, “Pack Horse,” now commemorates this history.

What historical changes has Hlemmur undergone?

Designed by architect Gunnar Hansson in the 1970s, Hlemmur was a bustling market space. By the 1980s, it became an unofficial gathering place for the punk rock scene. In 2017, Hlemmur was revitalized as a food hall, blending historical architecture with a new purpose.

What is "Borgarlína" and how has it impacted Hlemmur?

Borgarlína, or “CityLine,” is Reykjavik’s new rapid transit system that aims to improve public transportation across the city. With its upcoming launch, Hlemmur no longer serves as the final bus stop, shifting to an urban center where people can gather, dine, and enjoy the area’s cultural offerings.

How can I plan my bus trip in Reykjavik?

For bus travel around Reykjavik, visit Strætó’s website or app to view routes, schedules, and updated information on Reykjavik’s public transportation.