レイキャヴィーク発｜スーパージープで行くソゥルスモルク渓谷ツアー

From Reykjanesta and the next 100 km onwards, the south shore is characterized by lava formations constantly battered by the wild ocean waves (‘brim’ in Icelandic). For the next 300 km after that the shore consists of sands with hardly any harbours.

South Shore

Along with the powerful brakers, there is rich birdlife in the lava shore area. As for the sand shores, despite the lack of harbours, people would set off for fishing there anyway, at tremendous risk and this would indeed often result in great losses of life.

Among excellent places for a hypnotizing view of the massive white brakers, that may reach tens of meters into the air, are Reykjanesta, Grindavik, Strandakirkja, Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri.

South Iceland is the most popular part of the country and contains some of the most beautiful natural attractions in Iceland, among them the Golden Circle, some of Iceland's most famous active volcanoes as well as the beautiful Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon.

Geography

South Iceland is usually divided into the fertile South Icelandic lowlands between Hellisheidi and Eyjafjallajokull volcano on the one hand - and on the other hand the eastern part with the big volcanic glaciers Eyjafjallajokull and Myrdalsjokull (home of Katla) and flattened sands stretching towards the sea.

The South Icelandic lowlands

The South Icelandic Lowlands stretch nearly 100 km from Hellisheidi in the west towards Eyjafjallajokull in the east as a very flat and fertile farming land. From the shore the lowland stretches about km towards the inland. This is the best agriculture area in Iceland. The whole area is geologically very young, mainly of tuff type, formed during the Ice Age by the lava flows of the numerous volcanoes of the area. The area is indeed surrounded by volcanically active mountains on all sides. The glacier rivers of the area have helped filling the lavas with sand and clay, leaving it more and less smooth and fertile. Very strong earthquakes are found in this area as well.

The most active volcanoes of the area are Hekla and Eyjafjallajokull. No less active and not far off, but on the east side, is Katla, which we’ll adress in the eastern part-section. South of the mainland are the volcanic Westman Islands, famous for the 1973 eruption as well as the eruption in 1963, when Surtsey island was formed. Closely linked to the volcanic activity in the south is the geothermal heat found in many places, the best known being the Geysir area, which forms a part of the famed Golden Circle, which also consists of Gullfoss waterfall , Iceland's most famous waterfall as well as one of its most beautiful, located in the popular rafting river Hvita and Thingvellir National Park, comprising three of Iceland's most beloved natural attractions.

The earthquakes of the area bear witness to the fact that Iceland is still in shape. This is further evidenced by the endless number of fissures in the lavas, fractures in the mountains and certain pieces of lands sinking. The area of Thingvellir is the best known example of this, showcasing the continental drift. Thingvellir is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the location of the old parliament, Althingi, (now situated in Reykjavik) and one of Iceland's most important sites.

Another of Iceland's most popular attractions is the beautiful Thorsmork valley, situated between Myrdalsjokull and Eyjafjallajokull.

Natural harbour-sites are hardly any on the South shore, due to sand produced by the glacier rivers. A few towns are found in the area, Selfoss being the biggest one, Hveragerdi is another, then there are Hella and Hvolsvollur, all conveniently located by the ring road. By the shore are three fishing villages; Thorlakshofn, Eyrarbakki and Stokkseyri. Thorlakshofn the only one of those that can accommodate modern ships and ferrys. The ferry to the Westman Islands sails from there. A new harbour has been built on the sandy coast opposite the Westman Islands. The whole south shoreline offers some of the most gigantic braker waves that you are likely to see.

Culturewise, in addition to Thingvellir, we reccomend the ancient bishop seat of Skalholt (weekends at Skalholt further offer rich music life). Also, Iceland's most famous saga, Njal's saga takes place in the South lowlands. We further recommend the large reconstructed turfhouse near Stong and the ancient excavated ruins.

For sports, horse riding is popular in the area as well as catching salmon or trout, hiking, and river rafting in Hvita. 

The east part of South Iceland.

This is the area south and east  of Myrdalsjokull. The volcanic glaciers Eyjafjallajokull (near the border of the eastern and western part) and Myrdalsjokull, dominate the view. The landscape has been shaped by volcanic eruptions and vast sands stretch to the sea. Some agriculture is found here, however, with the farms in a row alongside the mountains.  A few large glacial rivers fall down in this area which also has striking waterfalls, such as Skogafoss and Seljalandsfoss.

Eyjafjallajokull is already well known for its 2010 eruption,  disturbing air communication all over Europe for many days. Much more serious,however, would be an eruption from Katla, a volcano in the eastern part og Myrdalsjokull. 

Katla’s last eruption was in the year 1918, when an enormous flood of water exploded from the glacier in a matter of minutes, threatening the local farmers of the area. Large amounts of ash and muddy  material were brought to sea to form a new land of sand, Kotlutangi, later washed away by the sea. No people were killed in this eruption. Eruptions in Katla throughout the ages have further created the vast sand area Myrdalssandur. Sixteen eruptions have been recorded for Katla since 930 at intervals of 13-95 years and the volcano is being closely monitored, as time may draw near to its next eruption.

In the same volcanic system as Katla (geologically speaking), are the Lakagigar craters, northeast of Myrdalsjokull. Those erupted in the years 1783-84; producing the largest amount of lava known in historic times. The ashes hindered the sunlight from reaching down to the surface of Earth, resulting in cold climate over northern Europe.

In  this area – what we call the eastern part of South Iceland -, there are many places worth visiting: Solheimajokull is a beautiful glacier in a walking distance (an outlet of Myrdalsjokull); Skogar has a very interesting museum of older time traditions and Skogafoss is only a few km away from there. One of Iceland’s most famous hiking routes, Fimmvorduhals, starts from Skogar. Southwest of the village Vik is one of Iceland’s most spectacular beaches, Reynisfjara. Together with the promontory Dyrholaey, which is the southernmost tip of the mainland of Iceland, it offers a breathtaking view with amazing rock formations, a black pebble beach, an abundance of birds and the powerful waves of the North Atlantic Ocean crashing on the beach.

Further east stretches the world's most vast sand plain, Skeidararsandur. North of the sand is the fascinating Skaftafell preservation area.  At its east end, south of Hvannadalshnukur, Iceland's highest peak, is Ingolfshofdi cape, with its rich birdlife, old fishermen's shacks and its lighthouse. Following the shore further east is the incredibly beautiful and ice-filled Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon. Not far off is the region of Sudursveit, featuring the culture center and heritage museum Thorbergssetur, erected in the memory of Icelandic author Thorbergur Thordarson.

Nestled between the glaciers Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull is Þórsmörk, the Valley of Thor. A nature reserve in the southern Icelandic highlands, Þórsmörk is one of Iceland's most popular hiking destinations, and a favourite location for photographers and nature lovers.

Strictly speaking, Þórsmörk is a valley and a mountain range between the Krossá, Þröngá, and Markarfljót rivers.

Locals, however, often use the name ‘Þórsmörk’ when referring to a much larger region that is composed of the area between Þórsmörk proper, and the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano, the peak that notoriously erupted in 2010 and caused widespread disruption to air traffic in Europe.

Landscapes and Geology

The contrasting vistas of lush oases and roaring glacier rivers cutting through black desert expanses not only make Þórsmörk unique in Iceland, but to the entire world. Parts of the valley are rich with moss, fern, and birchwood, while jagged mountain ridges and ice-capped peaks crown the horizon.

The valley's climate is warmer and calmer than usual in south Iceland, which often causes Þórsmörk's mountains to be cloaked in a veil of mist that materialises when the warm valley air ascends and mixes with the descending cold breath of the glaciers above. This is due to the collosal peaks that both surround and shelter it.

In spite of being warmer, Þórsmörk is also wetter than the rest of the country. This, however, only brightens the vegetation, giving the area a lush, emerald hue.

Activities

Þórsmörk's surrounding hills, slopes and mountains are beset with small valleys and gullies that make for some of Iceland's most astonishing hiking routes.

Experienced hikers, therefore, have a wealth of trails to trek, varying in distances and difficulty. In fact, Þórsmörk offers two of the most popular trails in Iceland, the Fimmvörðuháls and the Laugavegur routes.

Fimmvörðuháls is a 30 kilometres (19 miles) trail that takes you into the hills beneath the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano and to the volcanic craters Magni and Móði, which are still steaming from the eruption of 2010. You can feel the lingering effects of the volcano by feeling heat still rising from the lava rock.

The 55 kilometre (34 mile) Laugavegur path takes you from Þórsmörk to the Landmannalaugar geothermal area, which is home to an incredible wealth of hot springs and rhyolite mountains of vibrant colours.

A short but demanding hike from Þórsmörk up Mt.Útigönguhöfði is suitable for those who are looking for stunning views and don't mind a little physical challenge.

Accommodation and how to get there

During winter (October 16th to April 30th) the road into Þórsmörk is impassable. In summer (May 1st to October 15th) a special four-wheel-drive mountain bus runs three times per day from the BSÍ bus terminal in central Reykjavík.

Once there you have the choice setting up base in a small hut in Húsadalur valley, a private room or a dormitory in Langidalur valley, or to camp in Þórsmörk's campsite. Please note that the huts, private rooms and dormitories must be booked well in advance.

Of course, when the roads are clear, it is possible to drive there yourself. As with all cases with driving in Iceland, however, ensure that you are comfortable with the vehicle you have and your driving skills before setting off.

Seljalandsfoss is a waterfall that can be fully encircled, situated on the South Coast of Iceland with a drop of 60 metres (200 feet).

Due to the waterfall’s close proximity to the Ring Road and impressive natural features, it is one the country's most famous and visited falls. Majestic and picturesque, it is one of the most photographed features in all of Iceland.

Geology and Surroundings

Seljalandsfoss waterfall, part of the river Seljalandsá, has its origins underneath the glacier Eyjafjallajökull. The volcano beneath this ice cap was the one that erupted in 2010 and caused havoc at airports across Europe.

The cascade of the falls is relatively narrow but falls from a tall cliff that once marked the country's coastline, the sea is now located across a stretch of lowlands and is visible from the site.

The most distinguishing feature of Seljalandsfoss is a pathway that stretches all the way around it. The cliffs behind the falls have a wide cavern, and rocks and paths allow guests to fully encircle it in summer.

Though a mesmerising opportunity, visitors should be prepared to get dampened due to the perpetual mist of the falls, which also tends to make the rocks of the pathway slippery. 

Floodlights have been set up on both sides of the waterfall, which impressively illuminate the scene during the night when the midnight sun is not out. The lights were installed in 2001 due to the growing popularity of the falls as a tourist destination.

After visiting Seljalandsfoss, it is common for visitors to continue north to the waterfall Gljúfrabúi, which is found partially hidden behind a rock face. Because of Seljalandsfoss extreme popularity, Gljúfrabúi is widely considered the hidden gem of the scene, as it is too often overlooked.

Seljalandsfoss is also usually visited alongside the nearby Skógafoss. The waterfall falls from the same height, and while it cannot be encircled, it is much more powerful and steeped in the legend of a giant’s hidden treasure.

Visitor Centre Controversy

In 2017, it was announced that a visitor’s centre was to be constructed near the falls. The design of the building indicated that it would be seven metres (23 feet) high and 2,000 square metres (21,500 square feet) in size. Landowners in the area opposed to the idea, proclaiming that the centre would greatly alter the natural appearance of the waterfall’s renowned scenery.

The project has neither been fully approved nor wholly cancelled, with ideas surfacing of either significantly reducing the size of the construction, or moving the visitor centre’s location further away, for instance to the nearby farmstead Brekkuhorn.

Seljalandsfoss in Popular Culture

Along with a multitude of South Iceland’s most famous natural attractions, Seljalandsfoss can be seen in Justin Bieber’s music video for his song ‘I’ll Show You’. Please enjoy the video without emulating any antics that will endanger yourself or the environment.

The waterfall was also a featured waypoint during the first leg of the sixth season of The Amazing Race, an American reality TV series.

Gigjokull is one of two glacier outlets from the glacier volcano Eyjafjallajokull, the other being Steinholtsjokull.

The 2010 Eyjafjallajokull eruption was close to the head of Gigjokull. Gigjokull empties out of the summit crater area at 1600 meters (5249 feet), flows across the ice cap to 1500 meters (4921 feet) and then descends in an icefall down 200 meters (656 ft). Water flowing from Gigjokull enters the Markarfljot river and eruptions in the area have caused great glacier bursts, 2010 being the latest example.

Valahnukur is a mountain in the beautiful Thorsmork valley in South Iceland.

Valahnukur is a popular hiking trail, as it offers a magnificent view of the area, which is one of Iceland's most beloved attractions. 

Hveragerði is a town and municipality in the southwest of Iceland. It is often nicknamed ‘the Earthquake Town’ or ‘the Hot Spring Town’, due to the active geological and geothermal forces that define it.

Hveragerði town and services

Hveragerði is around 45 kilometres (28 miles) from the capital Reykjavík, and takes half an hour to drive to along the Ring Road travelling south. Around 2,300 people live in Hveragerði, most employed in tourism, horticulture or agriculture.

There is a service centre in the town with shops, including an alcohol shop, a supermarket, a gas station, an information point, and a cafe. There are several restaurants as well, and just outside it is a popular horse farm.

There are nice botanical areas and parks in the town, many recreational activities are available. There are excellent hiking trails as well as nice hotels and a camping ground which is open in the summer months.

In terms of culture, a number of museums can be found in Hveragerði, such as the Árnesingar art museum. The town hosts an annual culture and family festival in August.

Geography of Hveragerði

Hveragerði sits on a highly geothermal area. Boiling water runs just beneath the surface of the ground, leading to many hot springs in the nearby hills. This is both a blessing for the town and a curse.

In terms of a blessing, it allows greenhouses to flourish, as they can be provided with heat throughout the year. Hveragerði is thus the world’s northernmost producer of bananas, which are grown alongside a host of other fruits and vegetables.

Many flowers and herbs are also grown here, and it is considered the centre of botany in Iceland.

The boiling water also allows food to be cooked simply by burying it for a few hours, providing the restaurants with unique menus. It also brings the area a wealth of tourism.

The curse of this geothermal water is the effect it has on the residents. Stories of hot springs opening overnight in people’s kitchens, bedrooms and living rooms are very common.

Also, due to the Mid-Atlantic rift running through Iceland, many earthquakes hit Hveragerði. Fortunately, the houses are built here to withstand tremors, due to how common they are, but there is a lingering knowledge that a powerful earthquake or eruption could cause serious, perhaps irreparable damage to the settlement.

The river Varmá runs from the valley of Reykjadalur through the town. This region, which translates to the Steam Valley, is an incredibly popular place for hot spring bathing and hiking.

A gravel road that leads from Hveragerði takes you to the base of the hiking trail, which, for forty five minutes, winds up, down and around beautiful, scenic hills dotted with fumaroles and mud pits.

It ends by a river that is fed by hot springs, meaning it is heated from the top, allowing visitors to choose the perfect place to bathe. There are no indoor changing areas, but screens to undress behind.

From the horse farm outside the city, tours allow you to ride to the springs instead of walk.

Selfoss is a town of about 6,512 people in South Iceland (to the southwest), by the banks of the river Olfusa, one of the largest rivers in the country. It is located around 50 km from Reykjavik. The town is a centre of commerce, farming, and small industries in South Iceland.

The area and the old bridge over the river were of great strategic importance during World War II, and the British stationed troops there to guard it.

The mountain Ingolfsfjall rises over the town and lends a distinct feature to the scene. It is popular for climbing. Earthquakes are common in the area, with a strong one occuring in 2008, causing considerable damage to some buildings and roads. At least 30 people were injured, though no lives were claimed.

Selfoss has an annual festival called 'Sumar a Selfossi' ('Summer in Selfoss) in early August. Locals decorate their gardens with coloured ribbons and a fete with musicians and magicians is held by the library, culminating with a bonfire and fireworks display in the evening.

Hella is a small town of around 781 people (as of 2011), located in South Iceland, around 94 km from the capital. It is an important regional centre for the area.

Hella's economy mainly consists of commerce, services and industry. Tourism is an ever-growing sector as well. 

The river Ytri-Ranga on the east bank of which Hella is located, is one of the best salmon rivers in Iceland. Hella has excellent lodgings and for recreational activities there is plenty to choose from; sightseeing tours, horse rentals, dog sledge tours and fishing. Horse shows are held regularly and in July the town hosts an annual family festival. Hella is furthermore located near to many of Iceland's major attractions, such as Hekla volcano, Iceland's most famous volcano and one of its most active, as well as the nature wonders of Thorsmork valley and Landmannalaugar geothermal area.

Hvolsvöllur is a small town of 950 people in south Iceland, conveniently located by the Ring Road. It is often travelled through or stopped off in by those exploring the South Coast or encircling the country.

It is very popular as a place to stay in a cabin or bungalow for those who want to be close to the sites of the west and south, such as the Golden Circle, but away from the hustle and bustle of Reykjavík.

Economy and transport

Hvolsvöllur’s main economy is services to the surrounding agricultural area, which has an additional 600 people. It is also a growing place tourism, considering its easy accessibility to Iceland’s capital and some of its major natural sites.

Sitting on the Ring Road means a constant flow of travellers use Hvolsvöllur’s services. It also has a tiny local airport, with flights to the Westman Islands.

Museum

The area around Hvolsvöllur features prominently in one of the most famous Icelandic sagas, Njál’s saga. These sagas were epic works of fiction, which encapsulated much of the history (and folklore) of Iceland in its early era.

Njál’s saga is often thought of as one of the best, as many believe it to have been written by legendary historian and poet, Snorri Sturluson.

There is an excellent Icelandic Saga Centre in the town that those who love literature and history should not miss checking out.

‘The Exhibition of Njál’ is the first of its two exhibitions, introducing guests to the characters of the sagas, along with the Viking cosmology and the literary arts that have existed in Iceland for centuries.

The other is on the history of trade, commerce and the cooperative movement in the 20th century. While this may not seem fascinating, Iceland’s journey through this time is actually quite a riveting story.

In the early 1900s, the country had little changed since the medieval era. People still scraped a living off fishing and farming, lived in turf houses or, if they were extremely poor, caves, and had very little industry or infrastructure. The nation was still under the Danish Crown, with little to no contact with the outside world.

Fast-forward to 1999, and Iceland was already the developed country it is today, leading the world on issues such as gender equality, technological prowess, social fairness and civil rights.

You can also view a model of Alþingi, Iceland’s parliament, founded at Þingvellir in 930 AD here.

Hvolsvöllur also has homed the Lava Centre since 2017, an interactive museum where visitors can learn about the earthquakes and volcanoes that shape this country.

There is also a nice gallery in town, and a good restaurant in the Saga Hall, a replica of a medieval longhouse.

Nearby attractions

Hvolsvöllur has a number of interesting hiking routes in its vicinity. Among interesting sights is the large and peculiar rock Drangurinn by the farm Drangshlíð, under the Eyjafjöll mountains.

Hvolsvöllur is also a short drive from many other interesting attractions, among them some of Iceland’s most famous. One of Iceland’s oldest swimming pools, Seljavallalaug, is about 44 kilometres (27 miles) from the town. At a 14 kilometre (nine mile) distance is the rural area of Fljótshlíð and the farm Hlíðarendi. According to Njal's Saga, its hero, Gunnar, lived there.

There is good trout and salmon fishing in the nearby rivers. Several interesting caves, both natural and man-made are in driving distance from Hvolsvöllur.

There is also a number of beautiful waterfalls not far off, the most well known being Seljalandsfoss, which you can walk behind, and Skógafoss, one of Iceland’s highest and most beautiful falls.

Of course, as mentioned, the town is also a perfect launching point from which to explore the Golden Circle, which consists of the Geysir Geothermal Area, Gullfoss Waterfall, and Þingvellir National Park.

Skogar, in South Iceland, is a popular destination for travelers. It has a population of about 20 people, features a regional museum and and is close to the beautiful Skogafoss waterfall. The area had a region school until 1949, now run as a hotel.

The regional museum site

The museum features several buildings. The main building has many interesting artefacts but its main attraction is the eight-oar fishing ship Petursey, the best-known Icelandic ship of its kind.

There is an electicity station in the area, built in 1929. There’s also charming little schoolhouse there, built in 1901 and serving until 1907. Furthermore, there is a beautiful church there, Skogakirkja, built in the 19th century style, using material from decomissioned churches. 

A transport museum at the site has a collection of vehicles, along with am exhibition on the history of transport and its development.

The timberhouse of Holt has its earliest origins in 1878 but has since been restored, with the latest restoration ocurring around 1950. The house has domestic artifacts ranging from 1870-1930. Another building, the reconstructed ‘Skalarbaer’ dates back to 1919-20 and last, but not least, is the old reconstructed turf farm of seven houses, dating back to the 19th century and with old artifacts, showcasing the farm life of the time.

Nearby attractions

There are several spectacular waterfalls in the area. The most famous, about 5 km from Skogar. is the Skogafoss waterfall, one of the highest and most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland. You can walk to the top of the waterfall and on sunny days it may produce a rainbow. You can also travel by jeep to Fimmvorduhals, one of Iceland’s most popular hiking routes. The volcanic glaciers Myrdalsjokull (home to Katla volcano) and Eyjafjallajokull are not  far off, the latter  famous for its 2010 eruption. Further north is Thorsmork, one of Iceland’s most popular sites.

Gljúfrabúi (or Canyon Dweller) is a beautiful waterfall located at Hamragarðar in South Iceland, close to its better known counterpart, Seljalandsfoss waterfall. It is one of the hidden gems of the South Coast, and thus a great spot for photographers and those seeking to admire nature in peace.

Image from Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir

Nature of Gljúfrabúi

The 40 metre (131 feet) high Gljúfrabúi is hidden behind a huge cliff which faces out towards Iceland’s South Coast and the Atlantic Ocean. Because of its decent ‘hiding place’, it is overlooked by most travellers, in spite of the fact that thousands of people visit Seljalandsfoss, less than a kilometre away, every day.

A stream, the Gljúfurá, runs through a cleft in the cliff, and those who wish to approach the falls must do so by wading through these waters.

After a few metres of travelling through a narrow valley, the space will open, and here, Gljúfrabúi tumbles before a great boulder, which it is possible to climb upon for some great photos. With the open sky above, mossy walls, silver mist and black lava, it is one of Iceland’s most breathtaking gems, seemingly from a fantasy story.

This is especially the case on sunny days, where rainbows curve through the water’s spray.

It is also possible to see Gljúfrabúi from above. There is a steep path that allows you to clamber up the cliff, at some points with the aid of ropes.

Both these routes are mildly challenging and have their dangers, so only attempt to reach Gljúfrabúi if you are in a decent state of health and confident on your feet. They should only be attempted when there is not ice on the ground, and in the case of the path up the cliff, when it is wet and slippery.

Surroundings of Gljúfrabúi

Gljúfrabúi is in one of the most travelled regions of Iceland, on the South Coast along the Ring Road. This means that it is very easy to reach, either alone or on a guided tour, just an hour and a half’s drive from the capital.

As mentioned, Gljúfrabúi is about ten minutes walk north Seljalandsfoss. Interestingly, this is one of the country’s most famous and photographed waterfalls, due to the fact it falls from a concave cliff which allows visitors to fully encircle the cascade.

Seljalandsfoss is taller than Gljúfrabúi at 60 metres (196 metres), with a similar waterflow. Both are fed by the meltwater of the glacier Eyjafjallajökull, the volcano beneath which caused widespread problems to air traffic across Europe when it erupted in 2010.

A much more powerful waterfall can be found just half hour’s drive or so along the Ring Road, called Skógafoss. This is a similar height to Seljalandsfoss, but up to 30 metres (98 feet) wide after a heavy rain.

Another popular site in the area is Sólheimajökull, the most popular glacial outlet in Iceland for glacier hiking. This feature is on Sólheimasandur, a vast expanse of volcanic ash that resembles a black sand desert.

Those who travelling a little further along the South Coast will reach the cliffs of Dyrhólaey, with their beautiful rock arch and resident puffins in summer, and the beach of Reynisfjara, renowned for it powerful waves and basalt sea-stacks, called Reynisdrangar.

All these sites can be visited with ease within a day.