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The Westfjords are the westernmost part of Iceland and an unspoilt region of incredible beauty. They are home to some of the country’s most dramatic natural gems and, being off-the-beaten-track attractions in Iceland, these gems are usually far from the crowds.

The Westfjords are a wide area, stretching as a peninsula to the northwest of the mainland. The peninsula is ancient, mountainous and has many fjords of varying length.

The town Ísafjörður serves as the capital of the region, in spite of the fact that it has just 3,000 year-round inhabitants. There are many fishing villages in the fjords, as good fishing banks are found around the Wesfjords, yet all are much smaller.

The agriculture, unlike in the rest of Iceland, is very scant, due to the steepness of the mountains and the limited areas of lowland. Fishing and tourism, therefore, are the driving trades of the region.

While there are many incredible places in the Westfjords, the most iconic and beautiful are listed below.

The Hornstrandir Nature Reserve

Many places in the Westfjords are now deserted, such as the northernmost part of the peninsula, Hornstrandir. Due to the region’s beauty and wildlife, it was made a protected nature reserve in 1975. Its allure, however, was made famous much earlier; the 1834 poem Floriggi by Valdimir Dunjic was based on this area.

Hornstrandir is a holy place for travellers who seek solitude, peacefulness, breathtaking scenery and great hiking trails. It also has a special appeal for animal lovers, as the arctic fox is protected here, and, unlike in the rest of the country, curious of visitors, rather than cautious.

Between May and September, it is also a great place to see puffins.

Dynjandi Waterfall

Dynjandi, meaning ‘Thunderous,’ is considered one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland. It is really a series of waterfalls, seven altogether, with a cumulative height of 100 meters (330 feet), that tumble down steps so perfectly formed they barely seem natural.

How Iceland inspired J. R. R. Tolkien and the Game of Thrones crew is immediately apparent at Dynjandi.

Látrabjarg Bird Cliff

While not technically correct, many say that Europe’s westernmost part is the massive vertical seacliff Látrabjarg, in the westernmost part of the Westfjords. While officially on the North American tectonic plate, Iceland is considered a European country, leading to the confusion.

Over 400 meters (1,312 feet) high, these cliffs are renowned for the millions of seabirds that nest here in summer. These include Atlantic Puffins, which come between May and September. Like the foxes of Hornstrandir, the puffins of Látrabjarg are protected and thus have very little fear of people, allowing visitors to get within metres.

Other than its beauty, Látrabjarg is renowned for the act of heroism that occurred here. In 1947 a British trawler stranded at the base of its cliff. The stranded sailors would have no doubt frozen that night if their vessel had not been seen.

Local farmers, however, did see it. For generations, their families had learnt how to scale down the cliffs on ropes to collect bird eggs, and by using this technique, they abseiled 200 metres (656 feet) to the rescue.

Rauðasandur Beach & Sjöundá

The beach by the cliff is called Rauðasandur, rare for its pale red, almost pink sand. Along with many seabirds, the beach is home to hundreds of seals.

At Rauðasandur one can find the remnants of a farm where one of Iceland’s most notorious alleged killers once resided. Two farmers lived there with their wives, but one fell in love with the spouse of the other and she with him. Though no one knows exactly what happened, their original partners were found dead, and they were later sentenced to death.

This dramatic event later served as an inspiration for Icelandic author Gunnar Gunnarsson's masterful novel The Black Cliffs.

The Látrabjarg cliffs in the Westfjords mark both the westernmost point of Iceland and Europe. Hosting millions of birds, it is Europe’s largest bird cliff, 14 km (9 mi) long and 441 (1,444 ft) high.

It takes around six hours to reach Látrabjarg from Reykjavík, so it is recommended that visitors travel there as part of a wider trip around the beautiful Westfjords.

Birdwatching at Látrabjarg

Látrabjarg is home to a wide variety of birds, in large parts thanks to the shelter and seclusion the cliffs provide as nesting grounds. 

It is not only the variation of species that makes Látrabjarg such an awe-inspiring place and undoubtedly one of the world’s best birdwatching locations; the sheer volume of individuals is staggering, with some estimating over five million nesting here in summer.

The main species are Skuas, Arctic Terns, Guillemots, Eider Ducks and Razorbills. Of course, however, the stars of the show are the Atlantic Puffins.

At least a million puffins nest here, often very near to the top of the cliff. As they are protected here, they have very little fear of people, and will let them within feet for some great photo opportunities.

You should not, however, get too close to puffins for a variety of reasons. Firstly, they nest on sheer cliff faces, so a slip could send you falling. Secondly, puffins burrow rather than nest, making the surface of the cliff edge even more unstable; even if you caught yourself before tumbling, you could still crush an egg or a chick. Thirdly, puffins are socially aware animals, and if one flies off in a panic, it is common for all others to follow, spoiling the moment for everyone and putting chicks and eggs at risk.

Be aware the puffins can only be found at Látrabjarg from May until late August.

The Rescue at Látrabjarg

In 1947 Látrabjarg was the site of a famous act of heroism, in the form of a dramatic rescue. The British trawler Dhoon capsized, like so many other boats have, beneath Látrabjarg. Only twelve of its crew members survived the tumultuous, rocky ocean, pulling themselves up at the base of the cliffs.

They would have no doubt died of hypothermia, if not for the fact that they were seen by local farmers. Though 190 metres (632 feet) above them, with time of the essence, the farmers knew exactly what to do.

For generations, Icelanders had scaled down the cliffs of Látrabjarg on ropes to collect eggs and feathers, a practice that continues to this day. The farmers, therefore, put their harnesses on, scaled down, and pulled all twelve sailors to safety.

Dynjandi (meaning ‘Thunderous’) is a series of waterfalls in the Westfjords and the largest of its kind in the region. Dynjandi is particularly beloved by visiting nature enthusiasts and aspiring photographers, who are able to snapshot this fantastic natural feature from a wealth of angles.

Geography

Dynjandi can be found close by to Dynjandisvogur Bay and Arnarfjörður fjord, an area widely famed for its wealth of birdlife, stunning natural vistas and picturesque coastlines.

Colloquially titled ‘the Jewel of the Westfjords’, Dynjandi (otherwise known as Fjallfoss) cascades approximately 100 metres (328 ft) in total, falling in a trapezoidal shape; it is 30 metres (98 feet) wide at the top, 60 metres (196 feet) wide at the bottom.

In the summer, the flow rate of Dynjandi is up to eight cubic meters per second (282 cubic feet), whilst the winter it reduces to as little as one cubic metre per second (35 cubic feet).

Those wishing to view Dynjandi from the top are able to hike nearly 200 metres (656 feet) up the cliffside. As they do, they will pass the seven individual waterfalls that lead to the largest: Hæstahjallafoss, Strompgljúfrafoss (Strompur), Göngumannafoss, Hrísvaðsfoss-Kvíslarfoss, Hundafoss and Bæjarfoss (Sjóarfoss).

In 1996, there was a rocky path built to the top Dynjandi by volunteers, making the hike little more than 15 minutes in total.

Visiting Dynjandi

To travel to the Westfjords, one of your best options would be renting your own vehicle and driving yourself. Dynjandi is approximately 363 kilometres (226 miles) away from Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavík, meaning it will take some commitment to visit.

Alternatively, you could choose to join a guided tour around the Ring Road and the Westfjords, either by bus or Super Jeep, allowing an experienced tour guide to take responsibility for the driving.

It is also possible to fly to an airport in the Westfjords from Reykjavík Domestic Airport.   

Though the Westfjords are remote, they have enormous appeal to nature lovers who want to avoid the crowds. Most visitors do not make the effort to travel to them, so the beautiful sites are some of the most unspoiled and peaceful in the country.

Other than Dynjandi are sites such as the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve and the Látrabjarg birdwatching cliffs. The former is the least populated part of the country, with incredible panoramas and a wealth of Arctic Foxes. The latter is the best place to see puffins from land, as they nest in the tens of thousands.

Due to the fact that both species are protected in their respective habitats, they have little fear of people and will let you within mere metres.

Though sparsely populated, there are a few significant towns in the Westfjords. Foremost amongst them is the settlement of Ísafjörður, which is the region’s capital and its centre of tourism and trade.

Since 1981, Dynjandi has been considered a National Monument, meaning extra care must be taken not to stray from the specified walking trails. Iceland’s vegetation is incredibly fragile, often taking decades to repair once damaged. Remember, take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints.

Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo Credit: Evgeniy Metyolkin

Rauðasandur is a beach in the Westfjords, famous for having red and golden rather than black sands like most other beaches in Iceland.

Nature at Rauðasandur

Rauðasandur beach is located besides Látrabjarg, Europe's highest birdwatching cliffs. These cliffs are home to millions of seabirds, with razorbills, guillemots, gulls, fulmar, and hundreds of thousands of puffins (between May and September).

Many of these birds can be seen from the beach as they make their way to and from the ocean.

The beach, like all in the Westfjords, also boasts great seal-watching opportunities. Grey and Harbour Seals can often be seen bobbing in the water, or hauling out on the sands.

Though not at all guaranteed, the Westfjords boast the best whale-watching from the land in the country. Though most of these animals are found in the fjords themselves, the lucky may spot some from Rauðasandur.

The reason why Rauðasandur has its unusual colouration is because the Westfjords are no longer volcanically active, meaning there is no constant creation of the ashy sands that are found on other beaches such as Reynisfjara in the South.

In summer, it even looks somewhat tropical.

History and Culture at Rauðasandur

The remnants of a farm named Sjöundá can be found on Rauðasandur. At the beginning of the 19th century, this was the site of one of Iceland’s most famous murder cases.

Two farmers and their wives lived there but one farmer, Bjarni, and the other's wife, Steinunn, had an affair. They were sentenced to death, accused of having murdered their spouses. Bjarni was executed abroad but Steinunn died in prison in Reykjavík and was buried at Skólavörðuholt.

In the 20th century, she was moved to consecrated grounds and is buried in Hólavallagarður in Reykjavík. Steinunn's decendants, believing her innocent, recently gave her a tombstone.

Icelandic novelist Gunnar Gunnarsson based his masterpiece Svartfugl (The Black Bird) on the Sjöundá murder mystery.

Reykjavík Airport refers to the predominantly domestic airport within Iceland’s capital, often shortened to RVK or BIRK.

While Keflavík International Airport deals with flights abroad, planes from Reykjavík Domestic Airport only fly to select towns around Iceland, as well as to the Faroe Islands and Greenland. It will, however, serve as a landing place for international flights if conditions are problematic at Keflavík.

History of Reykjavík Airport

Flights had been going in and out of Reykjavík to an extent before 1940, but this was the year when construction began at the airport.

It was built by the British Troops who invaded the country after Denmark (the colonial ruler of Iceland at the time) was invaded by the Nazis. Initially, it was called RAF Reykjavík but received its current name when it was handed back to Icelanders in 1946.

In 2000, the airport underwent two years of renovation. During this time, there was a successful referendum in which the people spoke in favour of moving the airport out of the city centre, but due to complications in voting and the fact that the vote was not binding, these plans are yet to move forward.

The renovations were finished in 2002, and the airport has not changed much since, other than becoming much busier with the dramatic increase of tourism.

Reykjavík Airport Today

Today, Reykjavík Airport has four airlines that operate from it. They head to the following destinations in Iceland:

• Akureyri

• Egilsstaðir

• Húsavík

• Ísafjörður

• The Westman Islands

• Bíldudalur

• Gjögur

This means that guests who are pressured for time, fearful of driving on the icy roads, or have come in the depths of winter and roads are closed, can still reach all corners of the country.

Flights also go to Nuuk, Kulusuk and Ilulissat in Greenland, and Vágar in the Faroe Islands.

Very occasionally, flights will go back and forth to Copenhagen.

The airport is also regularly visited by tourists staying in Reykjavík, however, as it is the departure location for many helicopters and small plane excursions, which allow guests to have incredible aerial views of Iceland.

Some of these tours take guests as far out as to remote parts of the Highlands, while others are short flightseeing trips around the greater Reykjavík area. These, however, are still exhilarating and rewarding; there is no better way to see Reykjavík than from above, witnessing the patchwork quilt of colourful tin roofs unfold beneath you, and landmarks such as Hallgrímskirkja church from a whole new angle.

It also provides a great chance to see the nature around Reykjavík. In clear weather, you will be able to see the Snæfellsnes and Reykjanes Peninsulas, the flat-topped mountain Esjan, the bay of Faxaflói and the Bláfjöll Mountain Range.

The airport is located about two kilometres from Reykjavík’s city centre, putting it within easy walking, bus or taxi distance from all downtown hotels. It is right beside the forested hill Öskuhlíð, home to the popular restaurant, viewing point and exhibition centre, Perlan.

Surrounded by layered, flat top mountains, Bíldudalur is an attractive fishing village settled on the fjord, Arnarfjörður. This fjord-side location is responsible for the village’s envious reputation as “the good weather capital” of the Westfjords, and is a well tread spot for hikers, skiers and deep sea anglers. 

History

Despite it’s diminutive population size today (around 200 inhabitants), the development of  Bíldudalur was once prospering, making it an important commercial hub for the Westfjords region. Following the cessation of the Danish Trade Monopoly in 1786, Ólafur Thorlacius made his reputation as one of Iceland’s most respected businessmen in the town, buying and selling merchandise, drying fish and running his own fishing fleet. At the beginning of the 19th century, Thorlacius had successfully turned the village into a base for his large commercial operation, a reality that continued with his successor, Pétur J. Thorsteinnsson, lasting until 1924. 

As with many coastal villages in Iceland, the fishing quotas of the 20th Century began to hurt Bíldudalur’s primary industry and put a stop to any further large-scale urban development. The economy, however, managed to successfully diversify. Thankfully, Arnarfjörður is positively teeming with Lithothamnion Tophiforme, red algae which, when processed, becomes seaweed-derived Hafkalk, a natural supplement. Today, the village’s primary industries are shrimp farming, tourism and Hafkalk mineral processing. 

Culture 

Culture and music have thrived for years in Bíldudalur. In the past, the folk music festival, Baunagrasið, has seen musicians from across Iceland join for evening performances, workshops and courses. There is also an exhibition, “Melodies of the Past”, found in the basement of Jón Kr. Ólafsson, former vocalist for the 1960s Icelandic band, Facon. Inside, there is a wide array of LPs, instruments, posters and other fascinating objects from Icelandic music memorabilia. 

There is also the Icelandic Sea Monster Museum, where guests can enjoy electronic displays delving into the myth and folklore of these fantastical creatures. It might seem a little superstitious, but there are over 200 stories of locals coming across strange creatures slithering from Arnarfjörður. There is a large gallery of cryptozoological illustrations on display which might bring closer insight into these alleged run-ins.

Geography 

Around 45 minutes northerly drive from Bíldudalur is an epic series of waterfalls called Dynjandi, otherwise referred to as Fjallfoss. The waterfalls, collectively, have a height of over 100m. This area is particularly scenic for amateur photographers, who can snapshot the waterfall cascading from over the lip of the mountains all the way down to Arnarfjörður below.