Höhepunkte: 
The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spa found on the Reykjanes Peninsula in southwest Iceland. The Blue Lagoon is the most popular visitor attraction in Iceland and one of its most famous features, drawing people from all across the world.
The Lagoon is just a fifteen-minute drive from Keflavík International Airport, or a thirty-minute drive from Reykjavík, located between the two. It is thus often visited straight after arrival to the country or right before departure.
There are few better ways to recharge after a long-flight or action-packed holiday.
History
The Blue Lagoon started as a pool of wastewater from the Svartsengi geothermal plant in 1976. The first person to bathe there was Valur Margeirsson in 1981. He was met with some resistance prior to taking the first dip as people thought he was mad for wanting to bath in a "blue mud pool". He and others soon began to notice the unusual but remarkable healing qualities of the azure waters.
Those with conditions such as psoriasis found the waters immediately soothing for their condition. News quickly spread, and by 1987, the first swimming facilities were officially opened.
Since then, the establishment has only grown, from an open pool with no surrounding buildings to a luxurious spa, research centre and hotel.
Today
The Blue Lagoon is considered to have such notable regenerative qualities because the water is rich in silica and sulphur. A research and development facility on site finds cures and remedies for skin ailments, and silica mud is available for free on the sides of the pool for guests to enjoy a facemask.
The temperature in the bathing and swimming area is very comfortable, averaging 37–39° C (98–102° F). The Blue Lagoon also boasts the LAVA Restaurant, the Blue Café and the Lagoon Spa: you can thus enjoy cocktails, health products, delicious meals and treatments such as massages without leaving the premises. Saunas, steam rooms and a small waterfall are also on site.
For all of these reasons and more, the Blue Lagoon is considered to be one of the most enjoyable and romantic spots in the country. It is surrounded by a plethora of fantastic volcanic landscapes, and the water itself is opaque and vividly blue. Rising pillars of steam only add to the spa’s fantastic ambience.
Things to Note
The Blue Lagoon Spa is open throughout the year, and popular in every season. Due to the fact it has a maximum capacity for the comfort of its guests, it is essential that you book several months in advance to ensure your space. The vast majority of the time, you will be turned away at the door without a reservation.
More reserved guests might want to be aware that it is a requirement to shower naked in public before entering the lagoon, to ensure that the highest hygiene standards are maintained. Though uncomfortable for some, nudity has little taboo in Icelandic culture, so worry not; no-one’s looking.
Those who are travelling on a budget will note that the Blue Lagoon is quite pricey. There are other smaller spas and pools that can be entered for less, such as the Fontana Spa, Secret Lagoon, Mývatn Nature Baths and Krauma Spa. Of course, natural hot pools are free to enter.
For more information, you can read articles on the best pools in the country and the best natural hot springs.
The Golden Circle is a 300 kilometre (186 mile) route to the three most popular natural attractions in Iceland: the Geysir Geothermal Area, Gullfoss Waterfall and Þingvellir National Park.
This sightseeing trail is easy to do within half a day from Reykjavík, either by self-drive or on one of many tours. Some of these tours have additional activities, such as snorkelling or snowmobiling, or are conducted in a unique style, such as by helicopter, or under the midnight sun.
Within the three locations of the Golden Circle are some of the clearest examples of Iceland’s fascinating geological forces, magnificent landscapes, and rich culture.
The Geysir Geothermal Area
The Geysir Geothermal Area is a hot-spring haven in Haukadalur Valley. As could be guessed, it is home to a famous geyser, the name of which has named all others: Geysir itself.
Though this feature is currently in a phase of inactivity, its neighbour Strokkur more than makes up for it. Every five to ten minutes, it blasts a column of boiling water to heights that can reach over 40 metres (131 feet).
The surrounding area is dotted with fumaroles, hot springs, and mud-pits. There are also two other smaller geysers, Smiður and Litlí-Strokkur, that can be easily visited, as well as a hotel, restaurant, cafe and gift shop across the road.
Gullfoss Waterfall
The 'Golden Waterfall', Gullfoss one of the most beautiful and powerful waterfalls in Iceland, plummeting 32 metres (105 feet) in two tiers into the river gorge of the popular rafting river Hvítá. It is just a ten-minute drive from Geysir and is the furthest point on the Golden Circle from Reykjavík.
Gullfoss was very almost lost in the early 20th century when British developers sought to harness its incredible power for geothermal energy. Though they got the lease to the land, allowing them to go ahead with their plans, they met an unlikely adversary: the daughter of the farmer who owned it, Sigríður Tómasdóttir.
This resilient woman refused to see the waterfall, to which she and her sisters paved the first path, destroyed. She, therefore, walked over 200 kilometres (124 miles) to Reykjavík and back multiple times to meet with a lawyer in order to help change the decision.
Though the process was arduous and took years, eventually Sigríður managed to exhaust the resources of the businessmen and they withdrew their plans. Because of her, all Icelandic waterfalls are now protected from foreign investors, and she is considered one of Iceland’s first environmentalists and most important historical people.
Thingvellir National Park
The largest attraction of the Golden Circle is Þingvellir National Park. The Icelandic parliament was founded here in 930 and remained until the year 1798 before moving to Reykjavík, making it the original site of what is now the world’s longest ongoing parliament.
Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important places to visit in Iceland. This is not just for its historical and cultural values, but for also its magnificent landscape and dramatic geology.
Þingvellir is surrounded by a beautiful mountain and volcanic ranges, as it is located in a rift valley directly between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This makes it one of the few places in the world where you can walk between the continents, in the Mid-Atlantic Rift.
The daring and qualified even have opportunities to snorkel or scuba dive in this no-mans-land, in a ravine filled with crystal-clear spring water called Silfra. The visibility here can exceed 100 metres (328 feet), revealing incredible geological sites. Though it never freezes over due to the constant flow of water into it, it is 2°C (35°C) throughout the year, thus underwater explorers are always equipped with protective suits.
Other sites of note are the magnificent Almannagjá gorge, which you can walk down into to reach the rift valley from the North American tectonic plate, and the beautiful lake Þingvallavatn, the largest lake in Iceland, which gleams to the south of the National Park.
Surrounding sites
Due to its convenient location in south-west Iceland, it is easy to visit the Golden Circle alongside with many other sites. Those seeking relaxation could head to the Secret Lagoon in Flúðir or Fontana Spa in Laugarvatn, those seeking adventure could book a trip to the ice tunnels of Langjökull glacier, and those seeking culture could visit the Sólheimar ecovillage. For more natural beauty, you can visit the nearby Kerið crater lake.
There are many tours that include such bonuses, but if driving yourself, you should check out this guide to great detours off the Golden Circle.
East Iceland is a vast area of incredible nature, striking contrasts and fascinating history and culture. It is home to the remote and beautiful East Fjords, many small fishing villages, and an array of wildlife.
Services in East Iceland
East Iceland has just a few settlements with significant services. The main one of these, considered to be the capital of the region, is Egilsstaðir.
Egilsstaðir has restaurants, museums, shops, petrol stations and an array of accommodation options to suit all budget. It is also home to an airport, meaning those with limited time or without a driving licence can easily reach it from Reykjavík.
Seydisfjörður is another settlement of significance, with services for travellers, and a ferry that goes to Scandinavia. Djúpivogur is another wonderful town that visitors can refresh at.
East Iceland is home to the Karahnjúkar Hydroelectric Power Station, which provides many of the towns with energy. The construction of this has led to hot debates on Iceland’s ecological footprint and continues to do so considering that it provides fuel to a controversial aluminium smelter nearby.
Nature of East Iceland
East Iceland is characterised by many fjords, surrounded by steep mountains. Fishing villages can be found nestled in most of them.
Inland, however, is just as beautiful, with much of it being a fertile agricultural area. Woodlands of birch can be found here, the most famous being Hallormsstadaskogur, the largest forest in Iceland.
By this forest, and the town of Egilsstaðir, is the lake Lagarfljót, said to hold a terrible monster.
Many rivers run through the district, and by their estuaries, colonies of seals may be found. The fertile waters also provide food to whales and dolphins, which can infrequently be seen from sure.
The impressive mountain Snӕfell, Iceland's highest freestanding peak, can be found in the east. Near here is the highland oasis Eyjabakkar, one of the largest nesting place for the pink footed goose in the world.
Reindeer roam the mountains of East Iceland, and this is the only place they can be found. Initially brought over for farming, the industry was never lucrative, and they have roamed free ever since.
Many migratory birds are found both inland and in the cliffs in summer, including the elusive puffin.
Vatnajökull, Europe's largest glacier, stretches to the borders of East Iceland and can be seen across much of it.
Culture of East Iceland
Of particular cultural note in the Fljótsdalshérað district is the cultural and historical centre Skriðuklaustur. In the Middle Ages, a monastery stood here, making it the region’s religious centre. In the 20th century, Icelandic author Gunnar Gunnarsson made it his home.
Gunnar wrote many masterpieces, including Adventa, or The Good Shepherd, Svartfugl, or The Black Cliffs, Saga Borgaraettarinnar, or The Saga of the One Eyed Guest, and the autobiographical novel cycle Fjallkirkjan, which has been translated under different names, such as The Church on the Mountain, Ships in the Sky and The Night and the Dream.
The culture of the East today is largely defined by festivals. Seydisfjörður hosts the annual music festival LungA. The settlement of Neskaupsstadur also hosts two highly popular annual festivals, Neistaflug and Eistnaflug.
The Westfjords are the westernmost part of Iceland, and an unspoilt region of incredible beauty. They are home to some off the country’s most dramatic natural gems and, being off the beaten track attractions in Iceland, these gems are usually far from the crowds.
The Westfjords are a wide area stretching as a peninsula to the northwest of the mainland. The peninsula is ancient, mountainous and has many fjords of varying length.
The town Ísafjörður serves as the capital of the region, in spite of the fact that it has just 3,000 year-round inhabitants. There are many of fishing villages in the fjords, as good fishing banks are found around the Wesfjords, yet all are much smaller.
The agriculture, unlike in the rest of Iceland is very scant, due to the steepness of the mountains and the limited areas of lowland. Fishing and tourist, therefore, are the driving trades of the region.
While there are many incredible places in the Westfjords, the most iconic and beautiful are listed below.
The Hornstrandir Nature Reserve
Many places in the Westfjords are now deserted, such as the northernmost part of the peninsula, Hornstrandir. Due to the region’s beauty and wildlife, it was made a protected nature reserve in 1975. Its allure, however, was made famous much earlier; the 1834 poem Floriggi by Valdimir Dunjic was based on this area.
Hornstrandir is a holy place for travelers who seek solitude, peacefulness, breathtaking scenery and great hiking trails. It also has a special appeal for animal lovers, as the Arctic Fox is protected here, and, unlike in the rest of the country, curious of visitors, rather than cautious.
Between May and September, it is also a great place to see puffins.
Dynjandi Waterfall
Dynjandi, meaning ‘Thunderous’, is subjectively the most beautiful waterfall in Iceland. It is really a series of waterfalls, seven altogether, with a cumulative height of 100 meters (330 feet), that tumble down steps so perfectly formed they barely seem natural.
How Iceland inspired J. R. R. Tolkien and the Game of Thrones crew is immediately apparent at Dynjandi.
Látrabjarg Birdcliff
While not technically correct, many say that Europe’s westernmost part the massive vertical seacliff Látrabjarg, in the westernmost part of the Westfjords. While officially on the North American tectonic plate, Iceland is considered a European country, leading to the confusion.
Over 400 meters (1,312 feet) high, these cliffs are renowned for the millions of seabirds that nest here in summer. These include Atlantic Puffins, which come between May and September. Like the foxes of Hornstrandir, the puffins of Látrabjarg are protected and thus have very little fear of people, allowing visitors to get within metres.
Other than its beauty, Látrabjarg is renowned for the act of heroism that occured here. In 1947 a British trawler stranded at the base of its cliff. The stranded sailors would have no doubt frozen that night, if there vessel was not seen.
Local farmers, however, did see it. For generations, their families had learnt how to scale down the cliffs on ropes to collect bird eggs, and by using this technique, they abseiled 200 metres (656 feet) to the rescue.
Rauðasandur Beach & Sjounda
The beach by the cliff is called Rauðasandur, rare for its pale red, almost pink sand. Along with many seabirds, the beach is home to hundreds of seals.
At Rauðasandur are the remnants of a farm where one of Iceland’s most notorious potential killers once resided. Two farmers lived there with their wives, but one fell in love with the spouse of the other and she with him. Though no one knows exactly what happened, their original partners were found dead, and they were later sentenced to death.
This dramatic event later served as an inspiration for Icelandic author Gunnar Gunnarsson's masterful novel The Black Cliffs.
Reykjavík is the capital of Iceland and the northernmost capital of any sovereign state in the world.
Despite a small population (approximately 120,000, with just over 200,000 in the Greater Reykjavík area), it is a vibrant city that draws an ever increasing number of visitors every year. It is the financial, cultural and political centre of Iceland, and has a reputation of being one of the cleanest and safest cities in the world.
Geography
The city of Reykjavík is located in southwest Iceland by Faxaflói Bay. Throughout the ages, the landscape has been shaped by glaciers, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and the area is geothermal; after all, its name translates to ‘Smoky Bay’.
Much of the current city area was subglacial during the Ice Age, with the glacier reaching as far as the Álftanes peninsula, while other areas lay under the sea. After the end of the Ice Age, the land rose as the glaciers drifted away, and it began to take on its present form.
The coastline of Reykjavík is set with peninsulas, coves, straits and islands, most notably the island of Viðey, and seabirds and whales frequent the shores. The mountain ring as seen from the shore is particularly beautiful.
Mount Esjan is the highest mountain in the vicinity of Reykjavík and the most distinctive feature of the coastline. This majestic summit is also highly popular amongst hikers and climbers. Other notable mountains that can be seen from the seaside are Akrafjall and Skarðsheiði.
On clear days, one may even see as far to the legendary Snæfellsjökull glacier, at the end of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
The largest river to run through the city is Elliðaá in Elliðaárdalur valley, which is also one of Iceland’s best rivers for salmon fishing.
Transportation
There are no trains or trams in Iceland, but most people travel by car. The city also operates a bus system. There are two major harbours in town, the old harbour in the centre and Sundahöfn in the east.
The domestic Reykjavík Airport is located at Vatnsmýrin, not far from the city centre and close to the hill Öskjuhlíð and the restaurant, vantage point and exhibition centre Perlan. The international Keflavík Airport at Miðnesheiði heath then lies around 50 kilometres (31 miles) from the city.
Cars, jeeps and bicycles can be readily rented in the city and many organized tours are also being offered. It is, however, quite easy to walk between the major sites.
What to See & Do in Reykjavik
The local arts scene is strong in Iceland, with annual events and festivals, many of artists from which have hit the international stage.
Major events taking place in Reykjavík include Iceland Airwaves, Reykjavík Pride, RIFF (The Reykjavík International Film Festival), The Reykjavík Literature Festival, Culture Night, the Reykjavík Arts Festival, Food & Fun, the Reykjavík Fashion Festival and the Sónar music festival.
Amongst the famous people from Reykjavík are musicians like Björk Guðmundsdóttir and Sigur Rós, and writers Halldór Laxness (born on the main street, Laugavegur) and Arnaldur Indriðason.
Those eager to soak up the local culture should visit the city’s many museums, exhibitions and galleries, and check out live music at the cafés, bars, and concert venues dotted around. You could look at the programmes of what’s on at the Harpa music hall or the theatres, or else plan a few hours at the lighthouse at Grótta, the shopping street of Laugavegur, or the old harbour and the flea market.
You could even book a bird- and whale watching tour or a visit to Viðey island. There are a lot of things to do and the possibilities are endless.
Make sure to visit the public square of Austurvöllur, one of the city’s most popular gathering places, where you’ll also find the national parliament, the Alþingi, as well as the state church, a statue of independence hero Jón Sigurðsson, cafés, bars and restaurants.
Austurvöllur was central in the protests following the banking collapse of 2008, along with Lækjargata, home to the House of Government. You are also not likely to miss the great church of Hallgrímskirkja that towers over the city from the hill of Skólavörðuholt, from which you’ll get a great view of the city.
Try a walk by the city pond, Tjörnin, to greet the many birds that frequent the area and to visit the city hall, stationed by its banks. A beautiful park lies by the pond, ideal for a nice walk, and sometimes concerts get held there.
Further off is the campus of the University of Iceland, the Nordic house and the Vatnsmýrin wetland, a particularly pleasant place, but be mindful to not disturb the wildlife there by keeping to the pathways.
For a nice swim on a warm day, we particularly recommend Nauthólsvík beach, which is heated with geothermal water. Those who love a dip should also visit the Laugardalur valley, home to one of the city’s best swimming pools, which sits a short walk away from Ásmundarsafn gallery, a beautiful botanical garden and a domestic zoo.
A walk by the Ægissíða beach, with its old fishing sheds, in the west part of Reykjavík also holds a particular charm. From there, you can see all the way to president’s house at Bessastaðir, which is also a historical site in its own right, having been the educational centre of Iceland for centuries.
Another place that offers one of the city’s best views is Perlan, up on Öskjuhlíð hill. The hill itself is a popular place to spend a few hours, with over 176,000 trees and great opportunities for walking and cycling. Perlan also has and observation deck with great views, a café and an exhibition centre.
Furthermore, the city is a short drive from many of Iceland’s major attractions, most famously the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. In close vicinity you’ll also find the Heiðmörk preservation area, a favourite local site of the people of Reykjavík, as well as the Blue Mountains, one of Iceland’s best skiing venues.
Finally, we’d like to stress that these are only some suggestions of the many things you might check out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose to do, we hope you’ll be able to make the most of your visit and we wish you a pleasant stay in our capital.
Akureyri, ‘The Capital of the North’ is a town in the fjord Eyjafjörður in North Iceland. It lies just 100 kilometres (62 miles) away from the Arctic Circle. It is Iceland’s second-largest urban area with a population of about 17,800.
Economy
Akureyri is an important fishing centre and port, but in the last few years, tourism, industry, higher education and services have become the fastest growing sectors of the economy.
An airport is located about three kilometres (two miles) from the centre and a large number of cruise ships lay anchor in its busy harbour.
Traditionally Akureyri has survived on fisheries and some of Iceland’s largest fishing companies such as Samherji, have their headquarters there. Other large companies are also based here, such as Vifilfell hf, the largest brewery in Iceland, which produces the famous Kaldi beer.
FSA/Akureyri Hospital is a significant employer in the area and is one of two major hospitals in Iceland.
Akureyri has excellent facilities for travellers and is located a short drive from many of Iceland’s top natural, cultural and historical attractions. Additionally, one of Iceland's best skiing sites is found by Akureyri, at Hlíðarfjall and it is the location for Ak Extreme, an annual skiing and snowboarding festival.
Nature & Landscape
Akureyri is surrounded by mountains, the highest one being Kerling at 1,538 metres (5,064 feet). The area around it has rich agriculture and a beautiful mountain ring.
The island of Hrísey sits in the middle of Eyjafjörður and Grímsey Island, which straddles the Arctic Circle; both islands belong to the municipality of Akureyri. Hrísey is often called 'The Pearl of Eyjafjörður’ and Grímsey 'The Pearl of the Arctic', and these beautiful and peaceful islands are highly popular with travellers.
Both are also home to many puffins.
Furthermore, Akureyri is a very popular place to stay due to its proximity to the Lake Mývatn. This is one of the country’s most popular destinations, due to its incredible natural beauty, intense geothermal activity, a wealth of birdlife and many surrounding sites, including Dettifoss waterfall, the most powerful waterfall in Europe.
It is also close to the seal-watching capital of Iceland, Hvammstangi, on the Vatnsnes Peninsula. This peninsula is also home to the captivating ‘elephant rock’ formation, called Hvítserkur.
The convenience of Akureyri is added to by its position on the Icelandic Ring Road, a route that encircles the country, passing almost every major destination. This means that reaching it from Reykjavík is little trouble, even in winter and the journey takes just under five hours.
History & Culture
During World War II, Akureyri was an essential site for the Allies and the town grew considerably after the war, as people increasingly moved to urban areas.
Akureyri has an active cultural scene, with several bars and renowned restaurants as well as frequent concerts and shows. During the summer there are several notable festivals in Akureyri and its surroundings such as the Vaka Folk festival.
Sites of interest in Akureyri include the brand-new Hof concert hall, many museums and the Christmas house which is open all year round.
The city boasts the world's northernmost botanical gardens which are located close to the swimming pool which is worth a visit.
Akureyrarkirkja church sits in a prized position halfway up the hill upon which most of the city is built. It was completed in 1940 and was designed by one of Iceland's most famous architects, Guðjón Samúelsson, who also was also responsible for arguably Iceland's most famous church, Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavík.
Jökulsárlón is Iceland’s most famous glacier lagoon. Conveniently located in the southeast by Route 1, about halfway between the Skaftafell Nature Reserve and Höfn, it is a popular stop for those travelling along the South Coast or around the Ring Road of the country.
Geography
As a glacier lagoon, Jökulsárlón is a lake that is filled with the meltwater from an outlet glacier. In this case, it is Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Europe’s largest ice cap, Vatnajökull.
It stands out, however, due to the fact that it also fills with icebergs breaking from the glacier, some of which tower several stories high.
These icebergs, other than their scale, are notable for their colouration. Although they are, as expected, largely white, most are also dyed electric blue in part, with black streaks of ash from eruptions centuries past.
When the icebergs finally make it across the lagoon, they either drift out to sea or wash up on the nearby shore. Because of the way they glisten against the black sands of Breiðamerkursandur, this area has been nicknamed ‘the Diamond Beach’.
In spite of being a rather recent formation, Jökulsárlón is the deepest lake in the country, with depths of 248 metres (814 feet). With a surface area of 18 square kilometres (7 square miles), it is also growing to be one of the largest.
History
Jökulsárlón has not been around since Iceland’s settlement; it only formed around 1935. This was due to rapidly rising temperatures in the country from the turn of the twentieth century; since 1920, Breiðamerkurjökull has been shrinking at a dramatic rate, and the lagoon has begun to fill its space.
Today, the expansion of Jökulsárlón is accelerating. In 1975, it had less than half its current surface area.
In the relatively near future, it is expected that the lagoon will continue to grow until it becomes a large, deep fjord.
Though a dark omen for Iceland’s glaciers and ice caps in general, the retreat of Breiðamerkurjökull has resulted in an incredibly beautiful, if temporary, site. This has not been overlooked by Hollywood.
Jökulsárlón has been featured in the James Bond films A View to Kill in 1985 and Die Another Day in 2002, 2001’s Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and 2005’s Batman Begins.
In 2017, Jökulsárlón was enveloped into the Vatnajökull National Park, thus it is now fully protected by Icelandic law.
Wildlife
Because of the wealth of herring and capelin that the tides bring into the lagoon, Jökulsárlón is somewhat of a hot-spot for Iceland’s wildlife.
In summer, it is a nesting site for Arctic Terns; stay well away from their nesting area, as these birds are notorious for the fierceness with which they protect their eggs, dive-bombing the heads of any they see as a threat. Skuas also nest on the lake’s shores in this season.
Seals can be reliably spotted here throughout the year, swimming amongst or else hauling out on the icebergs. Jökulsárlón provides them with a safe haven to rest and socialise, especially considering the waters of southeast Iceland are renowned for their population of orcas.
Vatnajökull glacier is the largest glacier in Europe, covering 8% of Iceland’s landmass.
It is the central feature of the Vatnajökull National park, found in the south west of Iceland, a popular spot for activities like glacier hiking from Skaftafell, boat tours in the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, and ice caving tours between November and March.
Facts about Vatnajokull
Vatnajökull has a surface area of approximately 8,100 square kilometres (3127 square miles); though it is rapidly shrinking due to climate change, its recession is not quite as advanced as at other glaciers, such as Langjökull and Mýrdalsjökull. In parts, it is a kilometre deep (over three thousand feet), and its average thickness is around half of that.
Vatnajökull also holds the tallest peak in Iceland beneath its ice; Hvannadalshnjúkur is 2,200 metres tall (7,218 feet). It also conceals some of the most active volcanoes in the country, the most notable being Grímsvötn, Öræfajökull and Bárðarbunga.
Volcanic activity in the region has occurred on and off throughout the centuries, and many geologists believe that several eruptions are overdue. If their calculations are correct, it would mean significant volcanic activity for Vatnajökull over the scope of the next half-century.
Depending on winds, this could result in worldwide consequences in terms of air-travel, agriculture and the general climate.
The glacier boasts over 30 outlet glaciers, which are channels of ice that flow out of ice caps but remain constrained on the sides of the valley. The major outlet glaciers of Vatnajökull include Dyngjujökull in the north, Breiðamerkurjökull, and Skeiðarárjökull to the south. To the west, one can find the outlet glaciers Síðujökull, Skaftárjökull and Tungnaárjökull.
Numerous rivers run out of Vatnajökull, making up some of the greatest glacial rivers in Iceland. The most notable are:
Tungnaá (west)
Köldukvísl (west)
Þjórsá (west)
Jökulsá á Fjöllum (north)
Skjálfandafljót (north)
Jökulsá á Brú (northeast)
Jökulsá í Fljótsdal (northeast)
Jökulsá í Lóni (south)
Hornafjarðarfljót (south)
Jökulsá á Breiðamerkursandi (south)
Skeiðará (south)
Núpsvötn (south)
Hverfisfljót (south)
Skaftá (south)
Vatnajokull National Park
Vatnajökull National Park was established in June 2008 and has slowly grown to include more and more areas. The park now covers an area of 14,141 square kilometres (5,460 square miles), 14% of the country. It is the second largest national park in Europe.
Rivers divide the highland plateau to the north of the park. The volcanic table mountain Herðubreið towers over this particular region, along with volcanoes Askja, Snæfell and Kverkfjöll.
The canyon Jökulsárgljúfur was carved out by glacial floods centuries ago. At the upper end of the canyon, you'll find Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe. Further north, the horseshoe-shaped canyon Ásbyrgi is believed to have formed when Óðinn's eight-legged horse, Sleipnir, stepped his foot down from the heavens.
East around Snæfell, one can find wetlands and ranges, home to roaming herds of wild reindeer and abundant birdlife. Steep mountain ridges make up the south side of Vatnajökull, where outlet glaciers crawl onto the lowlands. The sandy plains of Skeiðarársandur also lie to the south, and the glacial river Skeiðará runs through this vast desert.
One of Iceland's most visited landmarks in the National Park is the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, which sits at the base of the outlet glacier Breiðamerkurjökull. Here, large icebergs that have broken off the glacier float across a vast lake before ending up in the Atlantic Ocean, or washed ashore on the nearby Diamond Beach.
This is one of the best seal-watching spots in the country.
The Future of Vatnajokull
The volume of Vatnajökull reached its peak around 1930 but has since been in a steady process of decline. Because of rising levels of global temperature, Vatnajökull has on average lost about a metre (three feet) of its thickness annually over the past 15 years.
If temperature levels continue to rise, the glacier could be all but gone nearing the end of the next century, leaving only small ice caps on top of the highest mountain summits.
Efforts are being made to prevent what some say is the inevitable, with reforestation projects going on all around the glacier, a proven method of cooling the area. Time will tell how successful they are.
Vatnajokull and Jokulsarlon in Popular Culture
The beauty of Vatnajökull National Park has not gone unnoticed by those in film or television. Many famous scenes have been shot here, starting with James Bond: A View to Kill in 1985. Other notable films with scenes here include Batman Begins, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and James Bond: Die Another Day.
Most famously, however, many places in Vatnajökull have been used in the HBO Series Game of Thrones, north of the Wall. The Wall itself is constructed with CGI using shots of the glacier.
Mývatn is a beautiful lake with many small islands in the north of Iceland, the fourth largest lake in the country. Due to its serenity, birdlife and volcanism, the lake, including its surrounding area, is one of the most amazing natural attractions in the country.
Mývatn is, in fact, so beautiful that is was used as a site in the Game of Thrones franchise. In mid-winter it was used to represent the lands North of the Wall, namely Mance Raider’s Wildling camp.
Geology
Mývatn sits about an incredibly active geothermal area, giving it a unique and beautiful geology. After all, it is close to sites such as Krafla caldera, which contains the notorious Víti volcano, the name of which translates to ‘hell’.
Many of the islands here are thus pseudocraters, formed by steam explosions as magma rose beneath pockets of water, and many are bizarre basalt columns, rising vertically from the surface, formed by rapid cooling after an eruption.
The high amount of geothermal activity beneath Mývatn, of course, presents the opportunity for bathing in naturally heated waters. This is best done at the Mývatn Nature Baths, a beautiful establishment with serene waters, incredible views, and a reasonable entry fee.
Wildlife
Mývatn has some of the best bird-watching available in Iceland, although those seeking puffins will need to be at coastal cliffs such as those at Látrabjarg and Dyrhólaey, between May and September.
In fact, Mývatn has more species of duck than anywhere else in the world, with thirteen nesting species and many more visitors. Most popular (and common) amongst these is the harlequin duck sometimes referred to as the white-eyed diver after their unique white markings.
Mývatn’s surrounding vegetation and plentiful food make it a happy home for voles, mice and rats that have spread all over Iceland, providing tasty treats for Iceland’s only native land mammal, the Arctic Fox. Visitors, however, will have to keep a close eye out for these, as they are experts in camouflage.
In terms of flora, the most interesting plant life at Mývatn actually exists just beneath the surface of the water. Marimo are ‘moss balls’, bizarre spheres of fluffy green algae that are found in very few other places around the world, namely Japan (where they got their name), Scotland, Estonia and Australia.
Surrounding sites
Visitors to Mývatn often wish to spend more than just a single day exploring its many surrounding locations. Primary amongst these is Dimmuborgir, a lava field which truly reflects the dramatic consequences of a volcanism in Iceland. This area is steeped in folklore and is home to the thirteen ‘Santas’ of Iceland, the Yule Lads.
It was also here that many of the Game of Thrones scenes were shot such as Mance Rayder's wildling camp at Dimmuborgir and Grjótagjá cave, where Jon and Ygritte shared an evening together. Though this site can be admired from the shore, the water temperature is not monitored and can heat up very quickly, so visitors are asked not to take a dip.
Those with an interest in Iceland’s strange geothermal and geological sites should also check out the Skútustadagígar pseudo-craters and the aforementioned Víti crater and its surrounding lava field. There are also several geothermal hot spots around Krafla and the Námaskarð Pass which is a fascinating and primordial place.
Lake Mývatn is located on the Ring Road that fully encircles the country, making further sites easily reachable. To the west is the ‘Capital of the North’, Akureyri, a charming town with the highest population outside of the capital area.
To the east, you can find the largest waterfall in Iceland, Dettifoss which also happens to be the most powerful waterfall in Europe, and the incredible horseshoe-shaped canyon, Ásbyrgi. This feature was said to have formed by the stomping of one of the feet of Oðinn’s eight-legged horse as it leapt through the sky.
Dimmuborgir, or the Black Fortress, is a dramatic expanse of lava in the Lake Mývatn area. Steeped with folklore, it is one of the most popular destinations for travellers to north Iceland.
Geology of Dimmuborgir
Dimmuborgir was formed in an eruption that occurred in the area 2,300 years ago; the Lake Mývatn area is highly volcanic, as can be further seen in nearby locations such as the geothermal Namaskarð Pass, the hot spring cave Grjótagjá, and the dramatic Krafla fissure.
As lava flowed across the area, it passed over a lake, causing it to boil. This both quickened the cooling of the lava, and caused pillars of steam to shatter parts of it. The result, after it solidified, the area became defined by large stacks of rock and many caves and caverns, caused by bubbles of intense steam.
As such, many have compared Dimmuborgir to a medieval castle, with its many hidden chambers and its rising towers.
Folklore of Dimmuborgir
In Icelandic culture, lava caves are allegedly the homes of the nation’s brutal and vile trolls. The most famous of these were the half-troll, half-ogre Grýla and her submissive husband Leppalúði. Grýla was renowned for her insatiable appetite for children, and her gigantic pet cat, that would eat children over the Christmas period for not getting any clothes (encouraging kids to finish their weaving, knitting and sewing chores before the season set in).
Grýla and Leppalúði had thirteen sons who lived in Dimmuborgir, and are now known as the ‘Icelandic Santa Clauses’. On the thirteen nights before Christmas, these trolls come one by one to terrorise Icelanders, each with their own strategy after which they were named.
Sheep-Colt Clod, for example, would harass livestock; Skyr-Gobbler would steal and lick the houses supplies of yoghurt; and Window-Peeper would stare into houses, looking for things to burgle.
Like most frightening Icelandic stories, the Yule Lads were most likely created to keep children from going out into the cold Icelandic winter nights, where many disappeared without a trace for centuries. As the nation modernised, they became mischievous tricksters rather than devilish monsters. Now, they have been ‘Americanised’, and rather than traditional Icelandic garb, wear Santa costumes.
Due to Iceland’s remoteness and fondness for storytelling, the nation developed many unusual Christmas traditions that can be read about on this site.
During the Christianisation of Iceland, Dimmuborgir developed a new set of tales. Many began to believe, due to its starkness, that it was where Satan landed when cast from heaven, and where he created the catacombs to hell.
Dimmuborgir in pop culture
Dimmuborgir recently saw a surge in popularity, as it was featured on HBO’s Game of Thrones. In the series, it is where Mance Raider held his wildling army. It was shot here in winter.
Photo Credit: Husavik Traditional Whale Watching
Húsavík,in Skjálfandi Bay in North Iceland, is a town of just over two thousand people. It is renowned for having some of best the whale watching in Europe throughout the summer.
Whale Watching in Húsavík
Húsavík is often nicknamed the whale watching capital of Europe, due to the fact that throughout the vast majority of summers, tour operators have 100 percent sighting rates.
Humpback Whales are the most common species in Skjálfandi Bay. These gentle giants are renowned for being possibly the most entertaining of the great whales to observe, due to the fact they always show their tail before a dive, and exhibit many other behaviours at the surface, such as breaching and fin slapping.
Other animals that reside within the bay include White Beaked Dolphins and Harbour Porpoises. It is not at all unheard of, however, for Fin and Blue Whales to be seen, nor Orcas or Belugas.
Many whale watching tours include a puffin watching component.
Other Activities in Húsavík
Húsavík is home to the Húsavíkurkirkja church, a beautiful wooden structure built in 1907 and the civic museum for culture and biology, which amongst other things features a stuffed polar bear and ancient boats, bearing witness to the history of seafaring in Iceland.
There is also an Exploration Museum on the spirit of discovery.
Near to Húsavík is the Lake Mývatn area, a place of diverse, natural beauty, with a wealth of geological features. It is also close to the capital of the North, Akureyri.
In Húsavík you'll also find cute cafés and restaurants offering tasty treats, and you'll have a gorgeous view over the Skjálfandi Bay. There is a wealth of accommodation options available, from nice hotels, to cabins, to hostels.
History of Húsavík
Húsavík means ‘the Bay of Houses’, as according to legend, it was settled before the official ‘settlement date’ of 930 AD.
Garðar Svavarsson was a Swede who wintered in Iceland in 870 AD. According to legend and official sources, he left a man called Natfarri and two slaves to tend a farm here. It is said that the town was named after their houses.
Ásbyrgi Canyon is a spectacular horseshoe-shaped depression in the northeast of Iceland, steeped in folklore.
It is found only fifty miles east of Húsavík along the popular Diamond Circle route.
Geography of Ásbyrgi Canyon
This beloved natural feature measures approximately 3.5 kilometres (2.2 miles) in length and 1.1 kilometres (0.7 miles) in width. It is only a small corner of the extensive and dramatic Vatnajökull National Park, but undoubtedly one of its most breathtaking.
Visitors to Ásbyrgi will quickly take note of the canyon’s 100 metre (328) feet high cliff faces, as well as the thick woodland of birch and willow below, creating an area quite unlike that found anywhere else across Iceland.
Other tree species here include spruce, larch and pine, and there is a small lake called Botnstjörn which visitors can hike to. One of the canyon's most distinctive features is Eyjan ("The Island"), a 25m rock formation that divides Ásbyrgi for almost half its length.
Formation and Folklore of Ásbyrgi Canyon
Geologists estimate that Ásbyrgi Canyon began to form roughly eight to ten million years ago, just after the last Ice Age, following a catastrophic glacial flooding of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river. This flooding likely occurred due to a volcanic eruption beneath the ice-cap, Vatnajökull glacier.
Later, only 3000 years ago, this process repeated itself, further sculpting the soul-stirring, spectacular gorge that we know and love today.
With that being said, Icelandic folklore dictates an alternative theory, as it does with many of the landmarks around the country. Given the canyon’s horseshoe shape, legend has it that Odin’s eight-legged steed, Sleipnir, placed one of his feet on the ground here, leaving a deep imprint on the earth, as it sprinted across the sky.
A wealth of art and literature has depicted Sleipnir as Ásbyrgi’s true creator. Other myths claim that Ásbyrgi is the capital city and true home to Iceland’s ‘hidden people’, the Huldufólk and elves. Many of Iceland’s folk stories revolve around these strange, magical people and the bizarre punishments and plots.
Self-professed psychics have claimed that they can see and hear these mystical beings living in cracks and ravines of the canyon. Much more likely to be hidden in the woodland, however, are Arctic Foxes.
Attractions near Ásbyrgi Canyon
Thankfully, a number of other fascinating attractions are easily accessible from Ásbyrgi Canyon. One could visit Hljóðaklettar, a strange and enchanting cluster of columnar rock formations located in the neighbouring Jökulsárgljúfur canyon.
Nearby, there is also Europe’s most powerful waterfall, Dettifoss, a striking and mighty spectacle for any observer; glacial water from the Jökulsá á Fjöllum cascades 44 metres (144 ft) over the lip of the falls, culminating in a misty, roaring spray.
The video below shows one of Iceland’s most famous post-rock bands, Sigur Ros, who chose to play an outdoor concert at Ásbyrgi in 2006, only adding to the area’s rich and ethereal atmosphere. This and the rest of their performances can be seen in the film Heima (2007).
Askja is a caldera in the central Highlands of Iceland, just north of Vatnajökull glacier. It is best known for its dramatic eruptions, as well as the training grounds for Apollo astronauts because of its otherworldly, lunar landscapes.
The highest point of the mountains forming the crater is 1,510 metres (4.954 feet), which is remarkably tall for an Icelandic peak.
Askja is a popular destination for hikers, with mountain huts to reside in, although can only be accessed in summer with a four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Major eruptions at Askja
Askja was not known to a feature of note throughout most of Iceland’s history; it would only gain significant attention 1875, when it erupted with great force, and poured poisonous ash across much of the East Fjords; this ash reached far Poland, to give some idea of the scale.
The effect on the local people was catastrophic, as livestock and crops wilted and died. This forced a major wave of emigration from the country to the United States and Canada, and many towns on their East Coasts have high populations of Icelandic descendants, particularly the Canadian town of Gimli.
Though this appeared to be the first time Askja was known to have an international impact, it was not; 11,000 years ago, tephra from its eruption got as far as Romania.
Askja last erupted in 1961, though to no such significant extent. It has, however, rumbled since, with there being tremors in the region in 2010, and no ice cap in April in 2012, indicating heat below the peak.
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo Credit: Ulrich Latzenhofer
Öskjuvatn lake
Askja is also well known for being home to the second deepest lake in Iceland, Öskjuvatn, which misses out on the top spot for the newly formed Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.
Lying about 50 metres (164 feet) beneath the main level of the caldera floor, it has depths of up to 220 metres (722 feet).
This lake was formed after the 1875 eruption, and covers an area of twelve square kilometres (about five square miles). It is frozen the majority of the year, and if unseasonably liquid, a worrying sign of a potential eruption.
Science and Askja
Askja sits in what is called the ‘rain shadow’ of the great Vatnajökull glacier. This means that the area is remarkably dry, with only 450 mm of rain annually, about half of what falls in Reykjavík. It is also particularly cold, due to its elevation and proximity to the glacier.
These conditions mean that there is little to no vegetation surrounding Askja, and as such, it was a perfect place for Apollo astronauts to acclimatise to the environment of the moon. While other places around the country, such as the Reykjanes Peninsula were also used, this particular environment was considered the most accurate reflection of a lunar landscape.
The Apollo scientists were far from the only ones to come to Askja, with it attracting meteorologists, geologists and volcanologists for decades. In fact, before the astronauts came, Askja had already claimed the lives of two people studying it.
In 1907, two scientists from Germany, Walter von Knebel and Max Rudloff, were studying the volcano, and took a boat journey out onto the surface of Öskjuvatn. They would never return, nor would any sign of them be seen again, in spite of the hard work of von Knebel fiance, Ina von Grumbkow.
What happened to them has been an enduring mystery, a probable answer to which was finally found in 2014.
A study taken in this year in the caldera revealed what effects a landslide can have on the lake. When displaced earth struck its surface, it caused a wave 30 metres (98 feet) tall. Any small boat in its path would have been completely shattered, and it is little wonder why no sign of them has ever been found.
Goðafoss waterfall is located in the river Skjálfandafljót in north Iceland, the fourth largest river in Iceland. It is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the country, falling from a height of 12 metres (39 feet) over a width of 30 metres (98 feet).
History of Goðafoss
The name Goðafoss means either waterfall of the gods or waterfall of the 'goði' (i.e. priest/ chieftain). The reason for this is its fascinating history.
When Iceland was first settled in the 9th and 10th Centuries, the vast majority (who were not slaves, at least) were Norwegians who followed the Old Norse religion, worshipping deities like Thor, Odin, Loki and Freya. However, after the Commonwealth was established in 930 AD, pressure to convert began to push from Christianising Europe.
By 1000 AD, it seemed that Norway would almost certainly invade if the country were to stand by their pagan beliefs. The issue was thus discussed at Þingvellir, where the parliament met once a year. The lawspeaker at the time, the Asatru priest Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði, was given the responsibility to make the decision.
It is said he sat beneath a birch for a day and a night in silence, praying to his Old Gods for the right decision. Eventually, he emerged and said, for the good of the people, Christianity would be the official religion, but pagans could practice in private (something that really would not be able to happen until the twentieth century).
To symbolise his decision, he returned to his home in north Iceland, and threw idols of the Old Gods into a beautiful waterfall. Since then, it would be known as Goðafoss.
Getting to Goðafoss
Goðafoss is located in north Iceland, on the Ring Road that fully encircles the country. It is considered part of the Diamond Circle sightseeing route.
This trail also takes visitors to the Lake Mývatn area, Dettifoss Waterfall, Ásbyrgi Canyon and the town of Húsavík.
Mývatn is a beautiful lake, filled with a wealth of birdlife, renowned for it incredible surroundings, which include fortresses and of lava, geothermal areas, craters and basalt pillars. Dettifoss is another waterfall, and though it does not have the history of Goðafoss, it has much more power; it, in fact, is the most powerful waterfall in Europe.
Ásbyrgi Canyon, meanwhile, is also linked to the Old Norse Gods. Its perfect horseshoe shape was said to have been created by the stomping of one of the hoofs of the eight-legged steed of Odin. The final destination on the Diamond Circle is Húsavík, the best place for whale-watching in Iceland.
Outside of the Diamond Circle, Goðafoss, is easily reached by travelling for 45 minutes east by car from the capital of the north, Akureyri.
This is the largest settlement outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area, and is a perfect place to stay for those travelling the circle around the country. It is a renowned cultural centre, with many museums, galleries and the world’s northernmost botanical gardens. Many tours depart from here.
Goðafoss can be reached throughout the year, although drivers in winter will want to be sure that they rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Dettifoss is a waterfall found in North Iceland, said to be the most powerful in Europe. It is regularly visited on Diamond Circle tours and should not be missed by any visiting the region.
Geography
Dettifoss is fed by the powerful glacier river Jökulsá á Fjöllum which flows from the largest glacier in Europe, Vatnajökull. The thunderous falls has an average waterflow of 193 metres cubed per second (6,186 cubic feet). It is 100 metres (330 feet) wide and plummets 45 metres (150 feet) down into Jökulsárgljúfur canyon.
This canyon is in the northern part of the greater Vatnajökull National Park, the greatest national park in the country, thus Dettifoss is well protected.
Also within this canyon, fed by the river of Jökulsá á Fjöllum, are two more impressive waterfalls, Selfoss (not to be mistaken with the southern town of the same name) and Hafragilsfoss.
Surrounding Sites
Dettifoss is located to the Ring Road that encircles Iceland, bypassing only the Westfjords and Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the west. This means that it is easy to drive to year-round, although you will need a four-wheel-drive to reach it in winter.
The most significant settlement near Dettifoss is the town of Akureyri, or ‘the Capital of the North’. With over ten thousand people, it is the largest town outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area. It is an excellent place to stop and rest for those visiting the north or encircling Iceland.
Another town of significance in the area is Húsavík, a coastal town that has began to boast the title of having the best whale watching in all of Europe. In summer, operators usually have 100 percent success rates in terms of sightings. The most common species are humpback and minke whales, white-beaked dolphins and harbour porpoises, although blue, fin, sei, beaked, pilot, beluga and killer whales are seen on rare occasions.
Between Akureyri and Dettifoss is the Lake Mývatn area. This beautiful expanse is renowned for it wealth of flora and fauna, particularly its birdlife; dozens of species can be found here, particularly the charming Eider Duck.
It is also renowned for its spectacular geology, with its pseudocraters, basalt pillars, and particularly the lava ‘fortress’ of Dimmuborgir, which is said to be the home of Iceland’s thirteen ‘Santas’, who are traditionally vindictive trolls more than they are jolly gift-givers.
Dimmuborgir and Mývatn were both used as a set in the Game of Thrones franchise, for many scenes North of the Wall. Dettifoss, meanwhile, was used in the opening scene of the 2012 film Prometheus, where the black rocks and dramatic scenery allowed it to represent an alien landscape.
Another waterfall sits on the Ring Road between Akureyri and Mývatn: Goðafoss. Though not as great as Dettifoss, its history is deeper; it was here, in 1000 AD, that Iceland’s lawspeaker marked the country’s shift from believing in the Old Norse Gods to believing in Christianity.
North of Dettifoss, one can find the incredible canyon of Ásbyrgi. This canyon is shaped like a giant horseshoe, and filled with verdant greenery. It is so perfectly formed and dramatic that it was originally believed to have been created by the stomping of one of the hoofs of the eight-legged horse of the Old Norse God Odin.
Hljodaklettar (‘Echo Rocks’) is a distinctive cluster of columnar rock formations, located by Jokulsargljufur in Vatnajokull National Park.
Hljóðaklettar stand at the entrance to Vesturdalur, down by the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum. The columns lie at all angles and derive their name from the strange echoes created by the numerous caves and uncommon rock formations.
The Látrabjarg cliffs in the Westfjords mark both the westernmost point of Iceland and Europe. Hosting millions of birds, it is Europe’s largest bird cliff, 14 km (9 mi) long and 441 (1,444 ft) high.
It takes around six hours to reach Látrabjarg from Reykjavík, so it is recommended that visitors travel there as part of a wider trip around the beautiful Westfjords.
Birdwatching at Látrabjarg
Látrabjarg is home to a wide variety of birds, in large parts thanks to the shelter and seclusion the cliffs provide as nesting grounds.
It is not only the variation of species that makes Látrabjarg such an awe-inspiring place and undoubtedly one of the world’s best birdwatching locations; the sheer volume of individuals is staggering, with some estimating over five million nesting here in summer.
The main species are Skuas, Arctic Terns, Guillemots, Eider Ducks and Razorbills. Of course, however, the stars of the show are the Atlantic Puffins.
At least a million puffins nest here, often very near to the top of the cliff. As they are protected here, they have very little fear of people, and will let them within feet for some great photo opportunities.
You should not, however, get too close to puffins for a variety of reasons. Firstly, they nest on sheer cliff faces, so a slip could send you falling. Secondly, puffins burrow rather than nest, making the surface of the cliff edge even more unstable; even if you caught yourself before tumbling, you could still crush an egg or a chick. Thirdly, puffins are socially aware animals, and if one flies off in a panic, it is common for all others to follow, spoiling the moment for everyone and putting chicks and eggs at risk.
Be aware the puffins can only be found at Látrabjarg from May until late August.
The Rescue at Látrabjarg
In 1947 Látrabjarg was the site of a famous act of heroism, in the form of a dramatic rescue. The British trawler Dhoon capsized, like so many other boats have, beneath Látrabjarg. Only twelve of its crew members survived the tumultuous, rocky ocean, pulling themselves up at the base of the cliffs.
They would have no doubt died of hypothermia, if not for the fact that they were seen by local farmers. Though 190 metres (632 feet) above them, with time of the essence, the farmers knew exactly what to do.
For generations, Icelanders had scaled down the cliffs of Látrabjarg on ropes to collect eggs and feathers, a practice that continues to this day. The farmers, therefore, put their harnesses on, scaled down, and pulled all twelve sailors to safety.
Dynjandi (meaning ‘Thunderous’) is a series of waterfalls in the Westfjords and the largest of its kind in the region. Dynjandi is particularly beloved by visiting nature enthusiasts and aspiring photographers, who are able to snapshot this fantastic natural feature from a wealth of angles.
Geography
Dynjandi can be found close by to Dynjandisvogur Bay and Arnarfjörður fjord, an area widely famed for its wealth of birdlife, stunning natural vistas and picturesque coastlines.
Colloquially titled ‘the Jewel of the Westfjords’, Dynjandi (otherwise known as Fjallfoss) cascades approximately 100 metres (328 ft) in total, falling in a trapezoidal shape; it is 30 metres (98 feet) wide at the top, 60 metres (196 feet) wide at the bottom.
In the summer, the flow rate of Dynjandi is up to eight cubic meters per second (282 cubic feet), whilst the winter it reduces to as little as one cubic metre per second (35 cubic feet).
Those wishing to view Dynjandi from the top are able to hike nearly 200 metres (656 feet) up the cliffside. As they do, they will pass the seven individual waterfalls that lead to the largest: Hæstahjallafoss, Strompgljúfrafoss (Strompur), Göngumannafoss, Hrísvaðsfoss-Kvíslarfoss, Hundafoss and Bæjarfoss (Sjóarfoss).
In 1996, there was a rocky path built to the top Dynjandi by volunteers, making the hike little more than 15 minutes in total.
Visiting Dynjandi
To travel to the Westfjords, one of your best options would be renting your own vehicle and driving yourself. Dynjandi is approximately 363 kilometres (226 miles) away from Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavík, meaning it will take some commitment to visit.
Alternatively, you could choose to join a guided tour around the Ring Road and the Westfjords, either by bus or Super Jeep, allowing an experienced tour guide to take responsibility for the driving.
It is also possible to fly to an airport in the Westfjords from Reykjavík Domestic Airport.
Though the Westfjords are remote, they have enormous appeal to nature lovers who want to avoid the crowds. Most visitors do not make the effort to travel to them, so the beautiful sites are some of the most unspoiled and peaceful in the country.
Other than Dynjandi are sites such as the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve and the Látrabjarg birdwatching cliffs. The former is the least populated part of the country, with incredible panoramas and a wealth of Arctic Foxes. The latter is the best place to see puffins from land, as they nest in the tens of thousands.
Due to the fact that both species are protected in their respective habitats, they have little fear of people and will let you within mere metres.
Though sparsely populated, there are a few significant towns in the Westfjords. Foremost amongst them is the settlement of Ísafjörður, which is the region’s capital and its centre of tourism and trade.
Since 1981, Dynjandi has been considered a National Monument, meaning extra care must be taken not to stray from the specified walking trails. Iceland’s vegetation is incredibly fragile, often taking decades to repair once damaged. Remember, take nothing but photos, leave nothing but footprints.
Drangey, with its steep sea cliff and rich birdlife, is situated in the middle of Skagafjordur. It towers majestically over the fjord, resembling a rock fortress.
Drangey is the remnant of a 700,000 year old volcano, and is mostly made of volcanic tuff. Due to its rich birdlife, the island was for centuries a source of livelihood for the people of Skagafjordur. Among the most common birds are the guillemot, auk and puffin. Drangey is also famous as the refuge of Icelandic outlaw Grettir, the hero of Grettis saga.
Breidafjordur is a fjord and a nature reserve situated between the Westfjords and the Snaefellsnes peninsula.
The fjord features countless islands, though it's estimated they might be around 3000 and has strong ebb and flow. The rock formations there, mainly basalt, belongs to Iceland’s oldest, from the tertier era. It is the only place in the country where one can find Antortorsit or moon rock (the most common type of rock on the moon). The wildlife is amazing, with cod, shrimp, shellfish, an abundance of seals along with wales and a wide range of seabirds. From Stykkisholmur one can sail to Brjanslaekur, witness the fantastic islands and enjoy shellfish fresh from the sea.
Snæfellsjökull (1446 m) is a glacier-capped volcano found on the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in West Iceland, in one of the country’s three National Parks. It stands at 1,446 metres (4,744 feet) tall, and on clear days, is visible across the bay from Reykjavík.
The stratovolcano beneath Snæfellsjökull is 700,000-year-old.
The mountain is actually called 'Snæfell' (Snowy Mountain), though the 'jökull' (Glacier) is often added to help distinguish it from other mountains of the same name. For the first time in recorded history, Snæfellsjökull had no snow or ice at its peak in August 2012, causing concern amongst locals that climate change is threatening the nature of the mountain.
History
Nearby villages include Hellissandur, Rif and Ólafsvík, all of which were some of the busiest commercial and fishing hubs in the country for much of the last millennium. Fishing took off primarily in the 13th-Century, with fishing stations being built in all areas with easy access to the open ocean.
One notable example would be the settlement of Dritvík; in spite of its miniscule size today, it once utilised around forty to sixty boats and employed up to six hundred people.
Fishing in the region declined during the 19th century due to change in Iceland’s industry and fish stocks, though it is still an important source of livelihood for those living on the Peninsula.
The Snæfellsjökull National Park was established in 2001, and tourism is rapidly changing the trade of the area.
In Folklore
Snæfellsjökull has, for centuries, been considered to be one of the world’s ancient power sites, a source of mysticism, energy and mystery for the peninsula’s superstitious population.
The feature takes a prominent role in Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, a late 14th-century saga that tells the story of Bárður, half-human-half-troll, who became the 'guardian spirit of Snæfellsjökull'. There are many rock formations on and around Snæfellsjökull that are said to be trolls petrified by sunlight, or else homes of hidden elves.
On November 5th, 1993, thousands of people came to Snæfellsjökull as some paranormal enthusiasts believed there would be an alien landing; CNN even showed up with a camera crew. Though the evening passed without a galactic invasion, the incident shows the strange significance of Snæfellsjökull to many.
In Literature
Snæfellsjökull serves as the entrance to a fantastical subterranean world in Jules Verne’s classic 1864 novel 'Journey to The Centre of The Earth.' Given its central place in the novel, Snæfellsjökull has become one of the most popular spots for visitors in Iceland and has inspired a wealth of writers, poets and artists.
Since 'Journey to The Centre of The Earth', Snæfellsjökull has appeared in the ‘Blind Birds’ trilogy by Czech science fiction writer Ludvík Souček (partially based on Jules’ work) and in ‘Under The Glacier’, a novel by Iceland’s only Nobel laureate, Halldor Laxness.
Nearby Attractions
Along with the glacier, attractions on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula include the two nearby basalt cliffs called Lóndrangar and the many fascinating lava formations at the beautiful Djúpalonssandur beach, such as the arch rock Gatklettur.
At Djúpalonssandur, one can also test their muscle as historic sailors once did with the four 'strength' stones, Amlóði ('Useless'), Hálfdrættingur ('Weakling'), Hálfsterkur ('Half Strength') and Fullsterkur ('Full Strength').
In the area, one can also explore the Saxhóll volcano crater and 'the singing cave' Sönghellir, which is named after the loud echoes inside.
Skógafoss is one of Iceland’s biggest and most beautiful waterfalls with an astounding width of 25 meters (82 feet) and a drop of 60 meters (197 feet).
Due to the amount of spray the cascade produces, at least one rainbow is present any time the sun emerges from behind the clouds.
Located on the Skógá river, this mighty cascade is clearly visible from Route 1 and is an excellent place to stop and stretch the legs while travelling Iceland’s South Coast. The river below Skógafoss holds a large char and salmon population and is thus a favourite spot for fishermen in the summer.
The land underneath the waterfall is very flat, allowing visitors to walk right up to the wall of water. This will get you drenched, although, on a summer’s day, it can be quite tempting.
Skógafoss can also be viewed from the top as a steep staircase leads to an observational platform above the cascade. Many nesting seabirds can be found on the route up.
Geography
Skógafoss is located near the small village of Skógar, south of the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano. There you’ll find the Skógasafn folk museum, an open-air museum with both old wooden houses and turf houses, as well as a regional museum with various artefacts from this area.
A part of the Skógasafn Regional Museum is the Museum of Transportation, which showcases the history and evolution of transportation, communication and technologies in Iceland. There, you can see how this nation evolved from the age of the working horse to the digital communications of the 21st century.
The Skógasafn museum also includes a café and a museum shop, and in the village of Skógar, you will find both a hotel and a restaurant.
At the eastern side of Skógafoss, you will find one of Iceland’s most famed hiking routes; the Fimmvörðuháls pass. The 22 kilometre (14 miles) trail takes you along Skógá river, between two glaciers, Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull, before ending in the beautiful Þórsmörk valley.
Skógafoss is often visited alongside the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, which is just a little further along the South Coast. Both fall from cliffs of the same height, and while Skógafoss is much more powerful, Seljalandsfoss has a cave behind it, which means it can be fully encircled. It is also next to a much lesser known but still awe-inspiring waterfall, Gljúfrabúi.
Folklore
A gold ring is on display at the Skógasafn museum. According to legend, the ring is from a chest that was owned by Þrasi Þórólfsson, one of the first Viking settlers in the area, who by some accounts was a giant. Folklore states that before his death in 900 AD, Þrasi buried a chest filled with gold in a cave behind Skógafoss waterfall.
Many attempts were made to retrieve the chest after Þrasi’s death, and years later, locals managed to grasp a ring on the side of the chest. As they pulled, the ring broke off, and the treasure was lost forever. The ring was then given to the local church before it made its way to the museum.
Seljalandsfoss is a waterfall that can be fully encircled, situated on the South Coast of Iceland with a drop of 60 metres (200 feet).
Due to the waterfall’s close proximity to the Ring Road and impressive natural features, it is one the country's most famous and visited falls. Majestic and picturesque, it is one of the most photographed features in all of Iceland.
Geology and Surroundings
Seljalandsfoss waterfall, part of the river Seljalandsá, has its origins underneath the glacier Eyjafjallajökull. The volcano beneath this ice cap was the one that erupted in 2010 and caused havoc at airports across Europe.
The cascade of the falls is relatively narrow but falls from a tall cliff that once marked the country's coastline, the sea is now located across a stretch of lowlands and is visible from the site.
The most distinguishing feature of Seljalandsfoss is a pathway that stretches all the way around it. The cliffs behind the falls have a wide cavern, and rocks and paths allow guests to fully encircle it in summer.
Though a mesmerising opportunity, visitors should be prepared to get dampened due to the perpetual mist of the falls, which also tends to make the rocks of the pathway slippery.
Floodlights have been set up on both sides of the waterfall, which impressively illuminate the scene during the night when the midnight sun is not out. The lights were installed in 2001 due to the growing popularity of the falls as a tourist destination.
After visiting Seljalandsfoss, it is common for visitors to continue north to the waterfall Gljúfrabúi, which is found partially hidden behind a rock face. Because of Seljalandsfoss extreme popularity, Gljúfrabúi is widely considered the hidden gem of the scene, as it is too often overlooked.
Seljalandsfoss is also usually visited alongside the nearby Skógafoss. The waterfall falls from the same height, and while it cannot be encircled, it is much more powerful and steeped in the legend of a giant’s hidden treasure.
Visitor Centre Controversy
In 2017, it was announced that a visitor’s centre was to be constructed near the falls. The design of the building indicated that it would be seven metres (23 feet) high and 2,000 square metres (21,500 square feet) in size. Landowners in the area opposed to the idea, proclaiming that the centre would greatly alter the natural appearance of the waterfall’s renowned scenery.
The project has neither been fully approved nor wholly cancelled, with ideas surfacing of either significantly reducing the size of the construction, or moving the visitor centre’s location further away, for instance to the nearby farmstead Brekkuhorn.
Seljalandsfoss in Popular Culture
Along with a multitude of South Iceland’s most famous natural attractions, Seljalandsfoss can be seen in Justin Bieber’s music video for his song ‘I’ll Show You’. Please enjoy the video without emulating any antics that will endanger yourself or the environment.
The waterfall was also a featured waypoint during the first leg of the sixth season of The Amazing Race, an American reality TV series.
Geysir is a famous hot spring in the geothermal area of Haukadalur Valley, found in south-west Iceland.
Making up just one of the attractions along the world-renowned Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside Þingvellir National Park and the mighty Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir is most well-known for having lent its name to geysers all around the world.
Geography
Though Geysir itself is rarely active these days, Haukadalur Valley boasts a plethora of hot springs and geysers, including the powerful Strokkur, Smiður and Litli-Strokkur.
Strokkur is, arguably, the country’s most famous hot spring, shooting vast jets of boiling water from 20 metres (65 feet) up to 40 metres (130 feet) high. Don’t worry about missing this incredible spectacle of nature, as Strokkur erupts every five to ten minutes; just make sure to have your camera ready.
Geysir is much larger, but years can go by between eruptions here; it is currently in an inactive phase. When it does erupt, the water can shoot up in the air as high as 70 metres (230 feet).
Just a few minutes walk north of Geysir are a wealth of fumaroles emanating steam and gas into the cool Icelandic air. Aside from watching the hypnotic pillars of steam, you will also be able to observe the yellow sulphuric stains along the fumaroles themselves, a result of the earth’s minerals crystallising around the rock bed.
At the southern part of the valley, Þykkuhverir, you’ll find various bubbling mud pots. These spooky brown cauldrons are actually fumaroles that boil up through the loose ground; after a dry spell, these mud pools are likely to transform into a hardened fumarole.
Nearby Attractions
About two kilometres (one mile) from Geysir is a preserved natural pool called Kúalaug. It has room for three to five people at a time, but care should be taken, as the area around the pool is very delicate. The temperature is 39-43°C (102-109°F), depending on where you are positioned in the pool.
The water is slightly muddy, as the pool is built on soil, and the bottom is slippery due to algae, so caution is advised when relaxing here.
Haukadalur has also seen a rise in reforestation in recent times thanks to continued experiments and research in the area. Today, Haukadalsskógur is one of the largest forests in south Iceland, boasting accessible walking paths (also for wheelchair users), fascinating vegetation and The Tree Museum, built in the memory of forester Gunnar Freysteinsson.
History
Haukadalur has been inhabited and used as a church site since the Age of Settlement. Given its historic value, it should be noted that scholar, Ari “The Wise“ Þorgilsson, grew up here; it was also where the first pastoral school in Iceland was built.
The current wooden church was last rebuilt in 1938 but its architectural style dates back to 1842, making it well worth a visit to see how Iceland looked before industrialisation.
For accommodation, Hotel Gullfoss is approximately 7 kilometre from the Geysir area, and closer still is Hotel Geysir on the other side of the road from the attraction, where you will also find a restaurant, café and a souvenir shop.
Gullfoss (translated to ‘Golden Falls’) is one of Iceland’s most iconic and beloved waterfalls, found in the Hvítá river canyon in south-west Iceland.
The water in Hvítá river travels from the glacier Langjökull, before cascading 32 meters (105 feet) down Gullfoss’ two stages in a dramatic display of nature’s raw power. This incredible site is seen by most visitors, as it is on the Golden Circle sightseeing route.
Because of the waterfall’s two stages, Gullfoss should actually be thought of as two separate features. The first, shorter cascade is 11 metres (36 feet), whilst the second drop is 21 metres (69 feet). The canyon walls on both sides of the waterfall reach heights of up to 70 metres (230 feet), descending into the great Gullfossgjúfur canyon. Geologists believe that this canyon was formed by glacial outbursts at the beginning of the last age.
In the summer, approximately 140 cubic metres (459 cubic feet) of water surges down the waterfall every second, whilst in winter that number drops to around 109 cubic metres (358 cubic feet). With such energy, visitors should not be surprised to find themselves drenched by the waterfall’s mighty spray.
As mentioned, Gullfoss makes up a part of the highly popular Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside Geysir geothermal area and Þingvellir National Park. Many Golden Circle tours include additional activities that can be taken from Gullfoss, such as ascending the mighty nearby glacier Langjökull and entering its ice tunnels, or snowmobiling along its gleaming surface.
History
In the early days of the last century, Gullfoss was at the centre of much controversy regarding foreign investors and their desire to profit off Iceland’s nature. In the year 1907, an English businessman, Howell, sought to utilise the waterfall’s energy and harboured ambitions to use its energy to fuel a hydroelectric plant.
At the time, Gullfoss was owned by a farmer named Tómas Tómasson. Tómas declined Howell’s offer to purchase the land, stating famously “I will not sell my friend!” He would, however, go on to lease Howell the land without the knowledge of a loophole that would allow him to proceed with his plans.
It was Tómas’ daughter, Sigríður Tómasdóttir, who would lead the charge to stop Howell’s ambitions. Having grown up on her father’s sheep farm where she helped pave the first road to Gullfoss, she sought to get the contract nullified, hurriedly saving her own money to hire a lawyer.
The ensuing legal battle was an uphill struggle; the case continued for years, forcing Sigríður to travel many times by foot to Reykjavík, a distance of over 100 kilometres (62 miles). Circumstances became so difficult that Sigríður threatened to throw herself into the waterfall if any construction began.
Her tenacity, however, resulted in success. In 1929, Howell’s withdrew from the lease, unable to keep up with the costs and difficulties of his plan. The waterfall fell back into the hands of the Icelandic people.
Today, Sigríður is recognised for her perseverance in protecting Gullfoss and is often hailed as Iceland’s first environmentalist. As such, she is one of the most famous figures in Iceland’s history. Her contribution is forever marked in stone; a plaque detailing her plight sits at the top of Gullfoss.
Interestingly, the lawyer who assisted Sigríður, Sveinn Björnsson, went on to go down in history too; he became the first president of Iceland in 1944.
Restaurant / Cafe
Besides Gullfoss, visitors can enjoy the views from Gullfoss Cafe, a locally run delicatessen that serves a wide variety of refreshments and meals. The menu has options to tantalise everyone’s taste buds: hot soups, sandwiches, salads and cakes. There is also a shop on site where visitors’ can browse and purchase traditional Icelandic souvenirs.
The glacier volcano of Eyjafjallajökull is notorious the world over for causing havoc to air travel in 2010, and stumping television anchors everywhere as they tried to pronounce it. 1651 metres (5427 feet) tall, it is one of the most dominant features of the South Coast.
Geography
The glacier of Eyjafjallajökull is approximately 100 square kilometres (39 square miles), making it the country’s sixth largest. It sits close to the fourth greatest, Mýrdalsjökull, which also conceals another notorious volcano, this one called Katla.
While Eyjafjallajökull’s eruption was huge and disruptive, it pales in comparison to the potential of Katla. Far more explosive, and under much thicker ice, an eruption here in unfavourable wind conditions could have worldwide consequences.
The magma chambers between both of these mighty volcanoes are connected, and, unfortunately for us, an eruption at Eyjafjallajökull is usually followed by one at Katla within a decade.
Eyjafjallajökull has many glacial outlets, the most famous being Gígjökull. Many rivers flow from its meltwater, and one of these falls into the beautiful South Coast waterfall, Seljalandsfoss, which it is possible to fully encircle.
Eruptions
Eyjafjallajökull’s most recent eruption was no doubt the most famous in Iceland’s history (although the honour really should go to Laki, the 1783-4 eruption of which caused an ash cloud so great that Europe fell into a famine that many historians believe led to the French Revolution). On March 27th, 2010, magma began to bubble from beneath the surface, and by April 14th, ash was starting to billow from the peak.
800 people were evacuated, in fears not of magma, but of equally dangerous glacial floods, which have decimated Icelandic towns in the past. Animals were ordered to be kept inside, and those with respiratory problems told they should also stay indoors.
Air travel across Europe was halted, as, by the evening of April 15th, the ash was already over the UK, Scandinavia, and parts of Germany. Holidaymakers were trapped, waiting for news, and would end up stuck for eight days; in Scotland and Ireland, there were even flights delayed in May due to lingering effects.
Thankfully, no one was injured, although the ash is thought to have caused respiratory issues for some in the south of the country. Many farms were also destroyed by the ash and floods, with some farmers still struggling to recover today.
Since settlement in 874, Eyjafjallajökull has also erupted in 900, 1612, and from 1821 to 1823. The latter released a huge amount of fluoride which is believed to have affected the bone health of humans and animals alike at the time.
Eyjafjallajokull today
Eyjafjallajökull is now entirely safe to visit and is seen on most tours of the South Coast in clear weather. In the town of Hvolsvöllur, there is a visitor’s centre on the volcano, which focuses on the experience of one family whose farm, Þorvaldseyri, was one of the many destroyed by the floods, lava and ash.
It is very unlikely that Eyjafjallajökull will erupt again any time soon, with hundreds of years between each eruption, but as mentioned, its neighbour Katla might start rumbling...
Dyrhólaey Peninsula is a 120-metre promenade famed for its staggering views of Iceland’s South Coast, as well as its historic lighthouse and wealth of birdlife. It is home to a rock arch of the same name.
Dyrhólaey, which translates to Door Hill Island, is of volcanic origin and was once an island before joining up to the Icelandic mainland. In ancient times, passing sailors used to refer to Dyrhólaey as ‘Cape Portland’.
It is also the most southernmost part of the Icelandic mainland, making it a popular stop for sightseers travelling along the Ring Road, and can be found close by the coastal village of Vík í Mýrdal.
Other features along the South Coast en route to Dyrhólaey from Reykjavík include the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, and the glacier Eyjafjallajökull.
Dyrhólaey Arch
Dyrhólaey’s most instantly recognisable attractions is the promenade’s massive rock arch, a result of centuries of erosion. As a result, its name is in direct reference to this enormous arch. In fact, this natural feature is so large and dramatic that one daredevil pilot even flew through it, back in 1993. Boats can easily cruise through its opening.
Dyrhólaey Wildlife
Dyrhólaey has an abundance of birdlife, the most common year-round being Eider Ducks. Iceland’s favourite winged resident, the migratory Atlantic Puffin, however, can be found here from May to September.
It is one of the best places to reliably locate them, and one of the closest puffin-watching locations to Reykjavík, excluding the islands in Faxaflói Bay that can be visited by boat from the Old Harbour.
While watching puffins, it is striking how little they seem to fear people, as they allow you to get very close. Be aware, however, they do not like to be touched, and if one flies off in a panic, the whole flock might follow it, so be respectful.
Features at and around Dyrhólaey
From your position atop the promenade of Dyrhólaey, you can enjoy staggering views over Iceland’s black sand beaches, complemented by the glittering waves of the Atlantic on one side, and distant mountainscapes to the other.
The most notable stretch of coast here is called Reynisfjara, renowned for its incredible geology, with the sea-stacks of Reynisdrangar jutting up out to sea. If you visit this beach while seeing Dyrhólaey as part of a South Coast adventure, be sure to follow the warning signs and stay away from the water, as sneaker waves here are notorious.
To the north, you will also able to see the creeping glacier, Mýrdalsjökull. This amazing ice cap conceals a secret; beneath its surface is one of the most explosive and notorious volcanoes in all of Iceland, Katla. Long overdue, experts say that it is a matter of when - not if - it will erupt over the coming years.
On top of Dyrhólaey stands Dyrhólaeyjarviti, a beautiful old lighthouse that consists of a white, square concrete tower. The first lighthouse in the area was built in 1919; the current construction was completed in 1927. Visitors here will be able to see the lighthouse flicking out beams of white light to sea every ten seconds.
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo credit: Andreas Tille
Glymur is Iceland’s second-tallest waterfall, and the tallest that is easily accessible by foot. Located in the fjord of Hvalfjörður, it stand at a height of 198 metres (650 feet).
Glymur is fed by the river Botnsá, which has sources in Iceland’s glaciers and runs from a lake above.
Getting to Glymur
To get to the carpark of Glymur, from which you can hike to it, takes about forty five minutes if driving from Reykjavík.
You first will head north on Route 1, before turning right on Route 47, before Hvalfjörður tunnel. This road will take you along the edge of the fjord itself, providing stunning views of the coast, mountains, flora and more smaller waterfalls.
From the carpark, the hike takes approximately three and a half hours to do in total. It is largely through nature, without any paved roads, and at some points can be a little challenging; the most used route, for example, involves wading across a river with the help of a rope, passing through a cave, and walking along a narrow mountainside path.
The hike, therefore, should only be taken by those with a reasonable level of fitness, who are sturdy on their feet. Even then, only those with decent hiking shoes and clothes for any weather should attempt the journey, and it is highly recommended that you bring walking poles, water and snacks.
The route is marked by cairns with yellow markers as well as signs, and is easy enough to follow. Be aware that there are some offshoot trails that can lead you away from the waterfall, so take care to be mindful of your surroundings.
Surroundings of Glymur
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo credit: Jabbi
As part of Hvalfjörður in west Iceland, many other sites can be seen in conjunction with Glymur. It is close to the settlements of Akranes and Borgarnes, both of which are commerce centres of the region, perfect to refresh at. Both are also historically significant, having been settled for over a millennium.
The earliest days of Iceland can be learnt about at the Settlement Centre of Borgarnes.
In terms of natural attractions, Glymur is relatively near to two other notable waterfalls, Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. Hraunfossar is serene, with many rivulets pouring off of a shelf of lava rocks, while Barnafoss is turbulent, racing down a narrow canyon.
Not far from these sites is the highest flowing hot spring in Europe, Deildartunghver, which sits near the geothermal and historical settlement of Reykholt.
Glymur can also be visited as part of a trip to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, the arm which extends off of west Iceland. Some of the country’s most marvellous sites can be found here, such as the basalt cliffs of Lóndrangar, the mountainside gorge of Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, the peak Kirkjufell, and of course, Snæfellsjökull National Park.
Be aware, however, that this would be a long time out for a day trip, and would not give you as much time at the sites as you may necessarily desire. There are, however, many options for accommodation on the peninsula and in the west.
Similar waterfalls to Glymur
When it comes to scale, the only waterfall taller than Glymur in Iceland is Morsárfoss, which is found by a melting outlet of Vatnajökull Glacier. It stands at around 240 metres (787 feet) tall, and was only discovered in 2007. It was only noted to be greater than Glymur in 2011.
Iceland has many other waterfalls of note, but the only other with an international title is Dettifoss, which boasts the highest rate of water flow out of any other falls in Europe.
Þingvellir National Park is the only UNESCO World Heritage site on the Icelandic mainland and one of the three stops on the world famous Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside the Haukadalur Geothermal Valley (Geysir) and Gullfoss Waterfall. Just to the south of the park is Þingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest natural lake.
Geography
The first thing that visitors to the National Park notice is its sheer aesthetic beauty; dried magma fields, covered in Icelandic moss, sit carved by glacial springs and surrounded by a bowl of ancient mountain peaks.
Two of the greatest attractions in the park are the exposed North American and Eurasian tectonic plates; it is one of the only regions in the world where you can see geology such as this on land.
Visitors are encouraged to walk along the North American tectonic plate, where they can read more about the area’s fascinating formation and history, before descending into the valley below.
History
Þingvellir can be anglicised to ‘Fields of Parliament’, a nod to the area’s fascinating history and relevance to Icelandic culture. It is here, after all, that the world’s first democratically elected parliament that remains functioning, Alþingi, was formed in 930 AD.
It may seem unlikely that Vikings would want to be under such an uncombative government, but the thirty or so clans that lived in Iceland at the time sought to prosper in their harsh new environment.
The first gathering was such a success that the meetings became annual, and it became a place where disputes were settled, criminals were tried, and laws to the benefit of all were laid down.
This saw the birth of the Icelandic Commonwealth, a time of independence and freedom for the Icelandic people before they became constituents of the Norwegian monarchy. Sessions would continue to be held at Þingvellir until 1798.
Though the parliament was removed by the Danish at this time, it returned 1845 to Reykjavík.
Another major reason as to why Þingvellir is considered so important to Icelanders is the fact that this is where the decision was made to abandon the belief of Paganism and the Norse Gods; the people adopted Christianity in 1000 AD under threat of invasion from Norway.
This turning point in history was left to the pagan lawspeaker, Þorgeir Þorkelsson, who rested on the choice for one day and one night before reappearing to share his decision.
To symbolise the country’s change, he threw idols of his old deities into the northern waterfall Goðafoss, the name of which translates to ‘Waterfall of the Gods’.
Silfra Fissure
Þingvellir is one of the most widely visited attractions in Iceland, in large part due to the fact that it is home to the glacial spring, Silfra fissure, one of the top ten sites in the world for snorkellers and scuba divers.
Silfra (meaning ‘Silver’) is a submerged ravine within the park, boasting visibility of up to 100 metres (328 feet) and a temperature just above freezing. Participants in these tours will be attired at the Silfra carpark in neoprene hoodies and gloves, as well as an undersuit and drysuit for thermal protection.
Hraunfossar in Borgarfjörður district is a series of beautiful waterfalls formed by rivulets streaming out of the Hallmundarhraun lava field. It is located in West Iceland near another waterfall called Barnafoss.
Its name translates to ‘Lava Falls’.
Geography and Surroundings of Hraunfossar
The lava field that Hraunfossar trickles through flowed from an eruption of one of the volcanoes lying under the nearby glacier of Langjökull, the second largest ice-cap in Iceland. The waterfalls pour into the Hvítá river from ledges of less porous rock in the lava.
The Hvítá river is one of the most popular rivers amongst visitors for two reasons. Firstly, it is the most easily accessible rafting river from Reykjavík, with rapids that are manageable even for total novices. Secondly, it is the river that hosts the mighty waterfall Gullfoss, one of the three sites of the popular the Golden Circle route.
Because the area around Hraunfossar used to be the site of constant eruptions, the lava fields are known for their hidden caves. By far the longest of these in the country can be found near to the waterfall, called Víðgelmir. This amazing feature is 1,595 metres long (5,200 feet), up to 15.8 metres high (52 feet) and 16.5 metres wide (54 feet).
Its geological history may be fascinating, being just a thousand years old, though its human history, once being home to bandits, and folklore, said to be the home of trolls, stir just as much intrigue.
Another major site near Hraunfossar is an incredibly short walk away, and though also a waterfall, could not be more different. Barnafoss surges down a narrow, rocky valley with ferocious power, foaming and churning quite spectacularly. According to legend, however, the force of these rapids led to tragedy.
It was said that an old stone bridge once went over the falls, and two boys at a nearby farm, bored at home, attempted to cross it to catch up with their parents at church. However, they felt dizzy due to its height, fell, and drowned.
The legend ends in two different ways, with the least interesting saying the mother in grief simply ordered the bridge destroyed. Other tales say that she cursed the bridge using an Icelandic rune, so that any who crossed would meet the same fate as her sons.
In this version, the bridge and curse were later broken by an earthquake.
The story led the waterfall its name; it translates to ‘Children’s Falls’.
Settlements near Hraunfossar
The nearest settlement of significance to Hraunfossar is Reykholt.
This tiny village has a huge history, being home to the legendary writer, chieftain, lawspeaker and poet Snorri Sturluson. Without Snorri, huge amounts of Icelandic, Nordic and even British history would be unknown.
He alone at the time catalogued a history of Norwegian kings and their relations with other monarchs through the work Heimskringla, as well as the Norse mythological beliefs through Prose Edda. It is also believed that Snorri first wrote many of the sagas still read today.
Reykholt has a centre dedicated to Snorri called Snorrastofa, which discusses his fascinating life as much as his works. Working during the times of Iceland’s tumultuous civil war as a chieftain, lawspeaker and spokesman of the Norwegian king, who had ambitions to take the country, it is a story with as much politics, betrayal, blood and sexual impropriety as Game of Thrones.
Hraunfossar is also reasonably close to Borganes, another town with a long history. Here, visitors can see the Settlement Centre with its two exhibitions on Iceland’s past, with one on the first people to reach this island over a thousand years ago, and another on Iceland’s most famous saga, Egil’s Saga.
Phot from Wikimedia. Creative Commons., by Reykholt.
Deildartunguhver is a hot spring located in Reykholtsdalur, a district of west Iceland. Deildartunguhver is the highest flowing hot spring in Europe and is widely known for its rapid flow rate of 180 litres (380 pints) per second.
Geothermal activity at Deildartunguhver
Deildartunguhver is one of Iceland’s most popular places to see hot springs, along with the Geysir Geothermal Area, the Highlands, the Reykjanes Peninsula, Reykjadalur Valley and Námaskarð Pass. While each of these areas have their appeal, at no other does the water rise with such ferocity.
The water at the hot spring emerges at a constant 97 degrees Celsius (207 degrees Fahrenheit), making it incredibly dangerous for those who venture too close. Thankfully, there are a number of wooden walkways and observation points found at Deildartunguhver that lead you around the hot springs without putting you at any risk.
Due to the sheer energy bubbling under Deildartunguhver, much of the water is used for heating Icelandic homes. One pipe travels 34 kilometres (21 miles) to Borgarnes, whilst another travels 64 kilometres (40 miles) to Akranes.
This means that if you’ve taken a shower or bath within a 64 kilometre radius of Deildartunguhver, you will have touched the water from the hot spring.
All Icelandic hot water comes from hot springs such as this, except in some parts of the Westfjords which are now geologically much older than the rest of the country, and thus less active.
This is a fantastic example of how Icelanders efficiently use the geothermal energy provided and is one of the major reasons as to why Iceland has such an excellent reputation for green energy.
Points of Interest at Deildartunghver
Photo from Wikimedia, Creative Commons, by Javier Rodríguez
Whilst in the area, many visitors choose to make a stop at Krauma Geothermal Bath & Spa, a fantastic and relaxing complex that makes for a cheaper, more isolated alternative to the Blue Lagoon.
Visitors to Kraua will experience the hot water of Deildartunguhver blended perfectly with glacial water from Iceland’s smallest ice cap, Ok (which rhymes with ‘talk’), creating the perfect bathing temperature.
Sadly, they will need a new source soon, as Ok has all but disappeared.
Krauma has a total of six pools, a relaxation room and two steam baths.
Visitors with an interest in botany will also be able to check out the Blechnum Spicant, aka; “deer fern”, a type of plant that grows nowhere else in Iceland.
Surroundings of Deildartunghver
Deildartunghver is located in west Iceland. The two most notable points of interest nearby are two waterfalls, Hraunfossar and Barnafoss.
Hraunfossar, or the ‘Lava Falls’, is in fact a series of tiny cascades that trickle through an old lava field. Barnafoss, or ‘the Children’s Falls’, is a more powerful rapids, steeped in a dark legend.
Deildartunghver is also near Víðgelmir, the longest lava cave in the country, trailing for 1,595 metres (5,200 feet) beneath the surface of the earth.
The most significant settlement near Deildartunghver is Reykholt, a beautiful village with a fascinating history. This settlement was once home to Snorri Sturluson, a historian, writer, chieftain and poet without whom we would know very little of the Nordic mythology, folklore and history at the time.
His works, and life full of politics, betrayal, affairs and war, can be learnt about in the town at the Snorrastofa Centre.
Strokkur is Iceland’s most visited active geyser. One of the three major attractions on the world-famous Golden Circle sightseeing route, it is usually visited alongside Gullfoss Waterfall and Þingvellir National Park.
Strokkur is found in the Geysir Geothermal Area, titled after the Great Geysir, which lent its name to all others across the world. It is the greatest active geyser on site; Geysir itself is in a period of inactivity. Strokkur erupts more regularly than Geysir ever did, blasting water to heights of around fifteen to twenty metres every five to ten minutes, although it is known to reach up to forty metres.
Strokkur and Haukadalur Valley
Strokkur is the primary feature of the Haukadalur valley and the main reason why it is one of the most visited sites in the country. While Geysir will very occasionally still erupt to enormous heights, it is nowhere near reliable enough to justify the area’s popularity.
Haukadalur valley, however, has many other features that make it worth a visit. The natural beauty of the area is shaped by the forces of the earth; fumaroles, hot-springs, mud-pits and other little geysers are littered around, and the ground itself is dyed vividly by elements such as sulfur (yellow), copper (green) and iron (red).
Opposite the main geothermal area in Haukadalur Valley is a restaurant, cafe, hotel and luxury gift shop.
Science behind Strokkur
Active geysers like Strokkur are rare around the world, due to the fact that many conditions must be met for them to form. They are thus only found in certain parts of highly geothermal areas.
The first condition that is necessary is an intense heat source; magma must be close enough to the surface of the earth for the rocks to be hot enough to boil water. Considering that Iceland is located on top of the rift valley between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, this condition is met throughout most of the county.
Secondly, you will need a source of flowing underground water. In the case of Strokkur, this comes from the second largest glacier in the country, Langjökull. Meltwater from the glacier sinks into the surrounding porous lava rock, and travels underground in all directions.
Evidence of this flowing water can be found in Þingvellir National Park, where there are many freshwater springs flowing straight from the earth.
Finally, you need a complex plumbing system that allows a geyser to erupt, rather than just steam from the ground like a fumarole. Above the intense heat source, there must be space for the flowing water to gather like a reservoir. From this basin, there must be a vent to the surface. This vent must be lined with silica so that the boiling, rising water cannot escape before the eruption.
Environmental Issues with Strokkur
One of the main reasons that Geysir entered a period of inactivity was due to the fact soap used to be pumped into the vents to make the eruptions more dramatic; it damaged the structure of the vent and prevented water building up. Strokkur, therefore, is guarded against all interference, with chains keeping visitors a good distance away.
Unfortunately, however, there have been incidents where people have meddled with its natural state. For example, an artist called Marco Evaristti once poured food colouring into it to make the eruption pink. He defended himself by claiming that nature was open to artists to utiltise and the fact the colouring was all-natural, but he became a pariah amongst many Icelanders, and was arrested and fined (though never paid it).
Snæfellsnes is a large peninsula extending from West Iceland, often nicknamed ‘Iceland in Miniature’ due to its wealth and diversity of natural features found there.
Home to the Snæfellsjökull National Park, at the centre of which is a subglacial volcano that towers over the scenery, this peninsula is home to waterfalls, rock formations, beautiful beaches, historic villages, and an intricate folklore.
In particularly clear weather, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula can sometimes be seen from Reykjavík, making views across the water from the capital of Iceland particularly beautiful. Those with an extended stay in Iceland are recommended to look into spending at least a day here.
Natural Sites of Snaefellsnes
The peninsula stretches 90 kilometres (56 miles) from West Iceland, between the Reykjanes Peninsula to the south and Westfjords to the north. A mountain range runs along it, consisting of both active and dormant volcanoes, culminating at the magnificent, ice-capped Snæfellsjökull volcano.
Starting along the south side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, you will first come to the Eldborg crater, which can be scaled for some incredible views, and the Gerðuberg basalt cliffs, where hundreds of hexagonal basalt columns are arranged with geometric precision. You will then start hugging the coast, where animal-lovers can find the Ytri-Tunga beach and its year-round seal colony.
The next site of particular natural beauty is the Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, a cleft in a huge cliff face that it is possible to climb into. A stream runs through here, so those who want to plumb its depths will get wet. Those with decent clothing, sturdy shoes and reasonable fitness, however, will be able to get quite far.
After Rauðfeldsgjá, you will come to the mighty basalt plugs of Lóndrangar. All that remains of what was once a massive crater, these two enormous pillars are not only awe-inspiring in their scale, but home to thousands of nesting seabirds.
You will then enter Snæfellsjökull National Park, which, in spite of being the smallest of the country’s three national parks, is pregnant with destinations worth visiting.
The most historic of these is Djúpalónssandur beach. Comprised of black, volcanic sands, it is best-known for the four lifting stones that remain on the beach from a bygone age. Fishermen would use these stones to mark their strength, and gage their suitability to working on the dangerous waves.
Within the National Park are also two lava caves that can be entered in summer. Sönghellir is renowned for the musical qualities of its echoes, whereas Vatnshellir is favoured for its easy access and vivid colouration. There is a small entry fee to the latter and you cannot enter it without a guide.
Of course, however, the highlight of this part of the Peninsula is no doubt Snæfellsjökull itself. Even if you are not ascending it on a glacier hiking tour, it is worth stopping by to marvel at.
This is particularly the case for literature enthusiasts. The adventure in the Jules Verne novel ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’ begins here, and it is the backdrop to the lesser-known novel ‘Under the Glacier’, by Nobel-Prize winning Icelander, Halldór Laxness.
On the north side of the peninsula is the haunting Berserkjahraun lava field, near the town of Bjarnarhöfn, the history of which weaves deception and murder. Most notable on this stretch, however, is the mountain Kirkjufell, often described as the most photographed mountain in Iceland, and known as "the mountain shaped like an arrowhead" from the popular HBO series, Game of Thrones.
Cultural Sites of Snaefellsnes
There are a few small and beautiful villages dotted across the peninsula, the majority of which are on the northern side, where the fishing is better. Most notable are Arnarstapi, Hellnar, Búðir, Hellissandur, Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur.
The last of these is highly popular for travellers, featuring a volcano museum and a ferry that takes you across the fascinating Breiðafjörður bay to the south border of the Westfjords with a stop at the remote island of Flatey.
Other museums of note are the Maritime Museum at Hellissandur, the regional museum at Ólafsvík, and, last but not least, the shark museum at Bjarnarhöfn, where you can taste the Icelandic ‘delicacy’, hákarl, or fermented shark.
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo Credit: Axel Kristinsson
Hválfjörður is a fjord in southwest Iceland. The fjord is approximately 30 kilometres (19 miles) long and five (three miles) kilometres wide.
Nature and Landscape
The landscape of Hválfjörður is varied and beautiful, with wide areas of flat land along majestic mountains, green vegetation in summer and beaches cut with by creeks.
The area is rich in birdlife and is home to seals, but despite its name, which translates to ‘Whale Fjord’, it is not known for its whale or dolphin population. Two theories exist on how it got its name; either that it was once home to whales before fish stocks moved away, or because of the general shape of the bay.
The area has recently been part of Iceland’s successful reforestation effort.
Natural attractions in the area are plentiful, but most significant is Iceland's highest waterfall, Glýmur, in the river Botnsá. There are also plenty of interesting hiking trails in the area, such as Sildarmannagotur, leading north, and Leggjabrjotur, leading east towards the area of Þingvellir National Park.
History and Culture
Historically, Hválfjörður was home to one of the main whaling stations in Iceland, with ships heading out into Fáxaflói Bay. It was one of the most important naval stations in the North Atlantic during World War Two, when Iceland was occupied by the Allies, after the Nazis conquered Denmark.
The old whaling station and a war museum can be found in the fjord.
Iceland's main psalm poet, Hallgrímur Pétursson, writer of the ‘Passia Hymns' lived in Hválfjörður. The area was also the home of the late Sveinbjörn Beinteinsson, rhymes poet and performer and head of the Icelandic pagan association.
Economy
Most inhabitants of the fjord live in rural areas, and there is some farming in the area. Until the 1990s those travelling between Borgarnes and Reykjavík had to take a long detour around the fjord, but this was solved with a tunnel that travels beneath it, finished in 1998.
Grundartangi spit in Hválfjörður has one of the largest harbours in the country and two industrial plants. One is a ferrosilicon plant, operated since 1979, the other an aluminium smelter, operated since 1998.
Both of these were controversial during their construction, and continue to be controversial during their ongoing operation. Along with whaling and hydroelectric dams, smelters and silicone plants are the hottest environmental debates going on in Iceland.
Ísafjörður is a town in the northwest of Iceland and the largest settlement of the Westfjords of Iceland. It is considered the capital of the region, and is the centre of trade, commerce, fishing and tourism.
Ísafjörður is located on a spit within the fjord Skutulsfjörður, which is part of the larger fjord Ísafjarðardjúp. The settlement is one of the few large enough in the Icelandic Westfjords to be considered a town, with a population of around 2,600 people.
History of Ísafjörður
According to Iceland’s Book of Settlement, the fjord Skutulsfjörður was first settled in the 9th century by a man called Helgi Magri Hrólfsson. Around the 16th century, Ísafjörður grew rapidly due to it becoming a merchant trading post. The town was granted municipal status in 1786.
The oldest house still standing in Iceland, built in 1734, is located in Ísafjörður as part of the local folk museum. The area also includes the most extensive body of old timber frame houses in the country, constructed in the 18th century by foreign traders. One of these is Tjöruhús, now a seafood restaurant, and another Turnhús, now a maritime museum.
Throughout its history, Ísafjörður has been one of the largest fisheries in Iceland. Several factors— a fishing restriction in the 1980s, drops in the fish population and monopolisation from bigger fisheries in Reykjavík—have led to a sizeable decline in the town’s population.
In recent years, the tourism industry has yet again created local jobs and economic prosperity for the town. The town now has many hotels and hostels, restaurants and cafes, and tour operators offering trips out into the Westfjords.
Nature of Ísafjörður
The climate of the Westfjords and Ísafjörður is tundra, bordering closely on subarctic, meaning the winters are cold and the summers cool. Due to Ísafjörður being located in a fjord surrounded by steep mountains, during the peak of the winter solstice, the rays of the sun don’t reach the town for weeks on end.
The Westfjords have a wealth of birdlife, and Ísafjörður is no exception; many species can be seen on several hikes out of the town. When on such trails, keep an eye on the landscapes to spot Arctic Foxes, on the coast to see seals, or the ocean to spot a whale.
Ísafjörður is the most convenient place in the Westfjords from where to visit the region’s incredible natural sites. These include Látrabjarg, birdwatching cliffs perfect for getting up close and personal with puffins; Dynjandi, a series of waterfalls that look to be plucked from fantasy; Hornstrandir, a Nature Reserve with spectacular views; Rauðasandur, a red- and gold-sand beach; and Drangajökull, the only glacier in the country that is expanding rather than shrinking.
Events and Happenings in Ísafjörður
Ísafjörður, despite its isolation and small population, boasts a proportionately urban atmosphere. The town hosts a multitude of events and festivals attended by people from all over Iceland, such as the Ski Week Festival, the Act Alone theatre festival, the European Championship of Swamp Soccer and alternative music festival Aldrei fór ég suður.
Sólheimajökull is an outlet glacier of the mighty icecap of Mýrdalsjökull on the South Coast of Iceland. It is one of the most easily accessible glaciers to reach from Reykjavík, just 158 kilometres (98 miles) away.
For those who are based in Reykjavík, it is by far the favourite spot on which to take guided glacier walks, competing nationally for popularity only with Svínafellsjökull in the south-east.
Geography of Solheimajokull
About eight kilometres long and two kilometres wide (five miles long and just over a mile wide), Sólheimajökull is an impressive feature. Due to the way it descends from Mýrdalsjökull, however, without a clear distinction between the two, it appears much bigger.
Mýrdalsjökull itself has many other outlet glaciers; overall, it is the fourth largest ice cap in Iceland. Beneath its thick surface is one of the country’s most infamous volcanoes, Katla.
The nearby Eyjafjallajökull erupted in 2010 causing widespread havoc at European airports. Throughout history, eruptions in Eyjafjallajökull mean that Katla will also erupt, and so the volcano is due to go off soon. However, volcanoes and all seismic activity in Iceland is highly monitored, meaning that it is perfectly safe to travel around the area and even take an ice cave tour in the glacier above.
Sadly, like all the glaciers in Iceland bar one, Sólheimajökull is shrinking rapidly. A glacier lagoon at its base reveals how quickly it is receding: the length of an Olympic swimming pool every year. It seems like this change is already an irreversible consequence of climate change, and it may be gone within decades.
Visitors to Iceland should, therefore, make sure they witness the ice-cap while it is still with us.
Sólheimajökull has several distinctive traits that separate it from other glaciers. Firstly, it is incredibly easy to find, laying just off of the Ring Road that encircles Iceland. Secondly, it is not surrounded by tall mountains, meaning those who ascend it can attain incredible views of the South Coast. Thirdly, it is home to many walls of ice that can be climbed up with ice axes on certain tours.
There are also crevasses that snake across the surface, spectacular ice ridges and formations, and a vivid colouration that dances between a gleaming white, electric blue, and ash black. Occasionally, you will even find an ice cave, though these can never be guaranteed.
A river runs from the meltwater of the glacier tongue, called the Jökulsá á Sólheimasandi. This river runs through a glacial outwash plain - otherwise known as a black-sand-desert - of Sólheimasandur to the nearby ocean.
Tours on Solheimajokull
Many day tours run from Reykjavík to Sólheimajökull, for glacier hikes or as part of a greater South Coast tour.
Greater South Coast tours include visits to other features, such as the incredible waterfalls of Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, the black sand beach Reynisfjara, and some even reach Vatnajökull National Park and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.
Hidden crevasses and ice caves, slippery surfaces, and the threat of rock- or ice-falls all pose dangers on glacier hikes, but glacier guides have to pass several training courses to deal with these eventualities, making the activity quite safe for those in a fit state of health.
All guests are equipped with helmets, ice axes, and crampons, and should arrive wearing warm clothes and sturdy hiking boots.
It is forbidden to ascend glaciers without the correct equipment or training, for your safety and the safety of others. There have been injuries and deaths on Sólheimajökull before, and glacier guides have had to risk their lives to rescue those who flouted the rules.
Mýrdalsjökull is a glacier in the south of the Icelandic highlands. It is the country's fourth largest ice cap, covering nearly 600 square kilometres (232 square miles), and its highest peak is almost 1500 meters tall. It is most well-known for sitting atop the notorious and explosive volcano, Katla.
Mýrdalsjökull is visible from Route 1 on the South Coast, sitting to the north of the village of Vík. It is visited on some snowmobiling, ice caving and helicopter tours, and one of its glacial outlets, Sólheimajökull, is the most popular place in the country for ice-climbing and glacier hiking.
Eruptions beneath Myrdalsjokull
Since 2010, the world has known of the volcano beneath Eyjafjallajökull; after all, it halted European air travel for over a week and stumped news readers everywhere. Few, however, are aware of the much larger volcano right beside it.
Mýrdalsjökull conceals Katla, one of the country’s most active volcanoes, having erupted, on average, once every fifty years since 930 AD. Because of the glacier above it, these eruptions tend to cause enormous ash clouds. It is these ash clouds that lead to flights being grounded, crops and livestock poisoned, and have the potential to change the world’s climate.
The last major eruption beneath Katla was in 1918, in which such huge lahar floods occurred that the southern coastline was extended five kilometres outwards. This area is also very susceptible to glacial floods, or 'jökulhlaup', during eruptions, even when the lava does not break through the surface of the ice. These are as dangerous as the lava itself, having wiped out whole Icelandic villages before.
Historically, the area was little settled for this reason.
Katla is connected to the same volcanic system as Eyjafjallajökull and usually erupts violently a few years after Eyjafjallajökull does. As the ex-president, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson said in 2010:
‘The time for Katla to erupt is coming close… it is high time for European governments and airline authorities all over Europe and the world to start planning for the eventual Katla eruption’
So it is currently several years overdue. Katla is monitored heavily, and roads around it closed when seismic activity increases. All road closures around Iceland can be found on Road and Coastal Administration's website.
Tours on Myrdalsjokull
While there are no eruptions immediately imminent, tours continue to run onMýrdalsjökull, allowing visitors to enjoy the glacier. It is, for example, possible to snowmobile across its surface throughout the year and take ice caving tours beneath it from October to April, with departures from both Reykjavík and Vík.
Considering the ice caves under Vatnajökull glacier are usually only accessible from November to March, this provides a wider window of opportunity for travellers to Iceland outside of the depths of winter. It should be noted that the caves in Mýrdalsjökull do not have the same blue ice, however.
Tours around Myrdalsjokull
Mýrdalsjökull can be seen on all South Coast tours that reach Vík and beyond in clear weather. It can also be seen from above on helicopter tours that depart from Reykjavík.
The best perspectives of the glacier, however, can be found on the popular Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail, which goes between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. Part of this hike can be done in a day, or you can take the complete route from Þórsmörk to Skógar on a three-day trek
Skaftafell is a nature reserve located in Vatnajökull National Park in the south-east of Iceland. It is an oasis of this nation’s diverse landscapes and features, so beautiful it was once a national park in its own right.
Nature of Skaftafell
Skaftafell is notable for its rich flora, growing between sands and glaciers, and for its amazing, contrasting scenery. Visitors will find a wealth of natural attractions, from cascading waterfalls to glacier lagoons, geological formations to black sand deserts.
The rugged region is known for its fantastic photo opportunities, with many awe-inspiring panoramic views.
Like many areas along the South Coast of Iceland, Skaftafell Nature Reserve is known for its glorious hiking trails, often called a ‘hiking paradise’. Unlike in the Highlands, where hikes tend to go on for multiple days, here there are far shorter. There are easy treks that lead to diverse sites such as the waterfall Svartifoss which is surrounded by bizarre and beautiful basalt columns, as well as to glaciers such as Svínafellsjökull.
With a qualified guide, it is an excellent region to try your hand at a spot of either ice climbing or glacier hiking; both activities are two of the most authentically Icelandic experiences you can partake in whilst in the country.
The nature reserve is also the perfect base camp for those seeking to climb Iceland’s highest peak, Hvannadalshnúkur, or for those wishing to spend a number of days exploring the region's attractions, including Vatnajökull glacier, Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon and the nearby Diamond Beach.
Getting to Skaftafell
Just off the Ring Road in the south-east of the country, it takes approximately four hours to reach Skaftafell from Reykjavík. The South Coast, however, is one of the regions most popular sightseeing routes, so the journey usually takes much longer, as visitors will want to make several stops along the way.
Examples of the beautiful natural features found en route to Skaftafell include the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, the glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull, the black sand deserts of Sólheimasandur and Skeiðarársandur, as well as the dramatic coastal rock formations at Dyrhólaey and Reynisdrangar. The villages of Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur are also along Route 1 if you need to stop and refuel on refreshments.
Those who have made it all the way to Skaftafell will want be sure to check out the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, a giant lake filled with enormous icebergs breaking from a glacial tongue, and slowly drifting to sea. At the nearby Diamond Beach you can watch them wash upon the shore, and in both the sea and lagoon are many seals which can routinely be spotted.
Skaftafell Visitor Center
You will find a Visitors Centre at Skaftafell which acts as the main information and meeting point for tour operators and independent travellers. At the Skaftafell Visitor Centre, you will find answers to virtually any questions you might have about the greater Skaftafell area, including its history and geology. The Visitors Centre also contains information about nearby hiking trails, recreational options and accommodation.
There is also a hotel at Skaftafell, though it tends to book up very early. Luckily, the south-east is dotted with hotels, cabins and cottages in which you can stay, and the area is not far from the settlements of Höfn or Kirkjubæklaustur.
Silfra is a fissure filled with fresh springwater within Þingvellir National Park, and one of the country’s most cherished wonders. Snorkelling and diving in its crystal-clear waters is an experience that is both thrilling and relaxing, and it is now considered to be one of the top five dive sites in the world. It takes around an hour to reach Silfra from Reykjavík.
Geography of Silfra
Silfra fissure opened in 1789, due to the movements of the tectonic plates that frame Þingvellir National Park. The North American and Eurasian plates, which run all the way through Iceland, separate at about 2 centimetres per year, and when they do, tear open fissures in the land between them.
The ravines fill with water travelling underground through the porous lava fields in the area, originating from Langjökull glacier about 60 kilometres north. It can take the water up to a century to reach Silfra and this long filtration process results in the water being both extremely clear and drinkable.
Because the water travels underground, it maintains a constant temperature of two to three degrees Celsius and does not freeze over immediately at the source of the spring. Snorkelling and diving tours are thus open throughout the year.
The clarity of the water is what draws most visitors. The visibility can extend to over 100 metres, allowing you to see the canyon walls and bottom like you are floating over a great cathedral.
The last colour that water absorbs is blue, which means that when you look forward in Silfra, it is as if you are looking into an ethereal, vivid, azure world. The clarity also means that sun-rays refract through the surface of the water, creating rainbows on Silfra’s bed when the weather allows.
Snorkelling in Silfra
Snorkelling in Silfra fissure is a highly enjoyable activity, but you must meet some prerequisites to be able to join. These are as follows:
- You must be able to swim
- You must be over 16
- You must be in good physical health
- You must be at least 145 centimetres and 45 kilograms
- If you are over sixty, you will need a medical waiver
- If you are over forty-five with a history of heavy alcohol use and pipe smoking, you will also need a waiver
The most common option for snorkelling is to conduct it in a drysuit like is done on this tour. Drysuits work with a fluffy undersuit to keep your body free from water and insulated against the cold, making the task of swimming through the near-freezing temperature more than achievable.
While drysuit snorkelling is the most comfortable and popular option, a few tours allow you to go through Silfra wearing a wetsuit. Wetsuits, made of neoprene, allow water to surround your body in a thin layer, that your body then heats up and uses to protect you. Though they grant you more flexibility, they are not so warm, so this should be done by the daring; you will also need to be at least 50 kilograms to snorkel in a wetsuit.
In all tours, you wear neoprene on your head and hands to allow for better mobility, a mask and snorkel, and a pair of fins, all of which are provided on site. The course of Silfra takes approximately forty minutes, and there is a gentle current throughout, meaning it requires minimal energy to traverse.
Diving in Silfra
Diving through Silfra gives an extra dimension to its beauty, as you will be able to look up and see the sun glistening upon the surface as you cruise through the crystal clear waters. However, considering the risks associated with diving in cold water and cumbersome equipment, all who partake must meet all the requirements above, as well as one of the following:
- You must be a qualified diver with a certification in a drysuit speciality, OR
- You must be a qualified diver with at least 10 logged dives in a drysuit conducted over the past two years, signed by an instructor or divemaster.
Photo by Emmanuel Milou
Höfn is an Icelandic fishing town of just over two thousand people in south-east Iceland. It is the most significant settlement on Route 1 between the village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur in the south and Egilsstaðir in the east.
Geography of Höfn
Höfn means ‘harbour’, as the town is located in one of the few natural harbours of Iceland’s South Coast; unlike the rest of the country, this stretch is beachy and flat, thus there are hardly any small coastal villages when compared to places such as the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
The town is right at the tip of its own peninsula, which is easy to reach throughout the year; it is at the base of Route 99, which detours off from Route 1. It is surrounded on three sides by the ocean, which has been known to freeze over in extreme conditions.
The town can also be reached by plane in good weather, as it is one of the few locations in the country with a domestic airport.
The largest glacier in Europe, Vatnajökull, which sits in a National Park of the same name, is within clear view of Höfn.
Nearby Locations to Höfn
Höfn is most often visited by those driving the full Ring Road of Iceland, as a place to stay just before or after visiting the South Coast or East Fjords.
It is also visited independently, however, by those seeking to spend enough time near the sites of south-east Iceland, most notably Vatnajökull National Park, the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, the Diamond Beach and Vestrahorn Mountain.
All of these sites are incredible. Vatnajökull, for example, is incredibly diverse, boasting a huge array of different sites to marvel over. In its southwestern corner, for example, it is home to the Skaftafell Nature Reserve, an oasis of unbelievable scenery, whereas to its west is the mighty mountain Snaefell, renowned for its wildlife such as pink-footed geese and reindeer.
The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon has recently been enveloped into the National Park, but warrants its own discussion. Out of all the sites listed, it is here where most staying over in Höfn want to spend most time. This lagoon is, in fact, Iceland’s deepest lake, and renowned for being full of great icebergs throughout the year.
These bergs snap off of a tongue of Vatnajökull glacier, before slowly cruising through the waters towards the ocean. As they travel, they often become resting spots for some of the many seals who live in and around the lagoon.
The site is marvellous to behold, with particular appeal to landscape photographers. Visitors, however, should not spend all their time in the lagoon. By following the channel from Jökulsárlón to the ocean, you will come onto the Diamond Beach, where these icebergs wash on the shore and glisten against the black sands.
A final site in south-east Iceland, closer to Höfn than those previously listed, is Mount Vestrahorn. This jagged peak is ominous and dramatic, with two sharp peaks that have created the nickname ‘the Batman Mountain’. Another favourite amongst photographers, it’s distinct silhouette and colouration make it the perfect subject regardless of the weather.
Culture at Höfn
Like many of Iceland’s small, coastal towns, Höfn has a surprising amount of culture. Its cuisine is particularly of note, with the celebration of it coming to a head at the annual Lobster Festival, held every July. This is little surprise considering the town’s long history as an important fishing port.
Höfn also has several art museums where visitors can admire local handicrafts, although it should be noted, in spite of conflicting evidence on the internet, that the Höfn Glacier Museum is now closed.
Photo by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir
Stykkisholmur is a town of about 1,100 people on northern shore of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. It is a centre of service and commerce in the area, and the ferry Baldur sails from here to Brjanslaekur in the Westfjords.
History of Stykkisholmur
Stykkisholmur has long attracted settlers due to its natural harbour and its access to the fertile fishing grounds of Breiðafjörður.
Because of its early settlement, it features in the Sagas (if not by name), notably Laxdæla Saga, one of the great early works of Icelandic literature. It is one of the earliest European stories with a passionate and powerful female lead Guðrún Ósvífrsdóttir, who struggles against a destiny to lose four husbands while trying to keep her children close and safe.
According to the tale, she eventually became the country’s first nun, and when she died, was buried at Helgafell, a small mountain near Stykkisholmur.
The first proper development for the town, however, came in 1550, with the creation of a trading post. Trading posts were uncommon in Iceland at the time due to the dangers and distances involved with travelling across the Atlantic, but Stykkisholmur’s natural harbour made it possible.
The settlement grew further with the beginning of the Danish Trade Monopoly over Iceland, starting in 1602 and not ending until near the end of the 18th Century. Though the policies of this monopoly disenfranchised and impoverished many Icelanders, it did help the development of towns along the peninsula such as Stykkisholmur.
In spite of the animosity felt from Icelanders towards the Danish under their colonial rule (a wound that has all but healed in every arena apart from perhaps sports), Stykkisholmur has always boasted good ties with their former rulers.
Every years since 1994, on the third weekend of August, Stykkisholmur holds a ‘Danish Day’, where it celebrates the historic and continued relations between the town and country. It is also the sister town of Kolding in Denmark.
Culture at Stykkisholmur
Photo from 'The Ultimate Guide to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula'
Stykkisholmur is a cultural hub, particularly considering its size. There is museum called the Norwegian House, which is the oldest two-storey building in Iceland, from 1828, and reveals what life was like for wealthy Icelanders of the day. There is also a Volcano Museum and the country’s oldest weather station, dating back to 1845.
Scenes to represent Greenland in the film ‘The Secret Life of Walter Mitty’ were shot in Stykkisholmur. In the novel Red Storm Rising, the town was the landing point of American troops liberating Iceland from the clutches of the Soviets.
Surroundings of Stykkisholmur
Stykkisholmur is on the northern side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and thus close to many incredible natural sites. The two most significant are Mount Kirkjufell and Snæfellsjökull National Park.
Kirkjufell is often nicknamed Iceland’s most photographed mountain; it rises from the edge of the ocean like a pyramid, and can be admired from many angles. Particularly pleasant is viewing it from beside the waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss, which trickles nearby.
Snæfellsjökull is one of Iceland’s three National Parks, named after its crowning glacier and volcano. This magnificent, twin-peaked feature has featured in novels such as Jules Verne’s ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’, and Halldor Laxness’ ‘Under the Glacier’.
It is also steeped in folklore and mystery, said to home the spirit of the peninsula’s guardian spirit and a centre of strange energies. This was so much the case that thousands of people, including new crews from the United States, showed up one evening that some theorists predicted an alien craft landing on it.
On the southern side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula are many more attractions such as the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs, Ytri Tunga seal watching beach, and the Rauðfeldsgjá gorge.
Hellnar is an old fishing village on the westernmost part of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. It used to be one of the largest fishing stations of the peninsula, with the oldest written record of seafaring there from 1560.
History of Hellnar
Historically, the settlement was a hub of activity, with many trading and fishing vessels pulling in and out of the harbour daily. There were many farms around the area, and by 1703, 38 houses.
Though by modern international standards, this was nothing, it was rather significant for Iceland at the time.
Throughout the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, however, Iceland began to develop and industrialise, and its fishing and trading industries began to move to Reyjavík, bringing with them many people.
Hellnar, therefore, rapidly lost its population and importance, like many other places in Iceland particularly on the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula. The change in economy hit Hellnar particularly hard, however, considering it was increasingly neglected for the neighbouring village of Arnarstapi, which was favoured by the ruling Danish.
The settlement was abandoned but for a few farms and a few resilient locals, until tourism began to boom in Iceland. Now, it is a centre for visitors in the area, with many options for rural accommodation.
Hellnar hosts the guesthouse for Snӕfellsnes National Park, which has a very interesting exhibition about the economy of former times, and on the geology, flora and fauna of the park.
Sites near Hellnar
At the shores of Hellnar are spectacular rock formations; much of the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula is incredibly dramatic along its coast, due to the previous volcanism of the area and the waves shattering the brittle lava rock that makes up the land.
Most notable amongst these that can be reached on foot is a protruding cliff called Valasnös. It has tunnels into the cliff, and its colouration is affected by the time of the day, the movements of the sea, and the prevailing weather conditions.
Large colonies of birds nest in the area, although it should be noted that puffins do not.
Hellnar, at the tip of the peninsula, is also within easy access of its many incredible natural sites for those travelling by car. Theses include the Lóndrangar sea stacks, the mountain Kirkjufell, and the Ytri Tunga seal watching beach.
Like many other places on Snӕfellsnes, it is easy to see the beautiful glacial capped volcano Snӕfellsjökull from the village.
Reykholt is a tiny village in west Iceland, which was once home to one of the world’s greatest medieval writers. Packed with history and culture, this little settlement should not be overlooked
Reykholt: Home of Snorri Sturluson
Reyholt’s fame comes from the fact that it was the home of the legendary writer, historian, chieftain and lawspeaker Snorri Sturluson. Though his name is not well-known outside of the Nordic world, without him we would know much less about medieval northern European history than we do today.
His two most famous works are Prose Edda and Heimskringla. The former is an account of the Old Norse Mythology, which was otherwise kept alive only by oral tradition.
It tells about how the pagans thought the world was created and how it would end, and the deities that sparked fear and awe in them, most famously Odin, Thor and Loki. Considered an epic poem akin to Homer’s Odyssey to many, it has inspired the fantasy genre perhaps more than any other work in the world.
Heimskringla is an account of Norwegian kings, told as sagas. It depicts what most historians consider to be an accurate depiction of relations across northern Europe from the 9th Century to the end of the 12th.
It is through this work, therefore, that we can learn about how the Vikings related to the kings of places such as the not-yet United Kingdom, how the jarls and clans disputed, and how they formed governments that have lasted to this day.
Though Snorri is best remembered for his works, his life was also a fascinating tale somewhat similar to that of a Game of Thrones character.
Aside from being a beloved poet and writer, he was a chieftain and later lawspeaker for Icelandic parliament, as well as a spokesperson, agent and, to some, lackey of the Norwegian king.
His influence and actions propelled Iceland’s civil war into chaos, and he met betrayal from every side, resulting in his eventual assassination. The taboo of this execution, however, meant that Snorri was remembered as a hero, rather than the divisive figure he often was.
To add to the Game of Thrones flavour, he was also notorious for infidelity, and fathering children up and down the country.
In honour of Snorri’s life and works, Reykholt is home to Snorrastofa, a centre on his contribution to medieval studies.
Reykholt and Surroundings
Even if you have little interest in Snorri, Reykholt is a beautiful town, well worth a visit. It has a wealth of geothermal activity, and one of the country's oldest structures, Snorralaug geothermal pool, can be found here.
Reykholt is also the closest settlement to the popular waterfalls of Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. The former of these, the ‘Lava Falls’, are serene and unique, while the latter, the ‘Children’s Falls’, is rapid and dramatic.
It is also close to Deildartunghver, the highest flowing hot spring in Europe.
If you're looking to stay more than a day in Reykholt or nearby, there are several hotels in the vicinity, among them the the beautifully built boarding school that functions as an Edda-hotel in the summer. There are also a wealth of cabins and bungalows to be rented here.
Bolungarvík is the second-largest town in the Westfjords, as well as being its second-largest municipality, with around 950 people. The town hosts one of the oldest fishing stations in the country and is close to good fishing grounds.
Bolungarvík is surrounded by large coastal mountains and has been populated since the age of settlement. The town features a national history museum and an open air fishing museum. Bolungarvík has apartments for rent and all basic facilities. The surrounding area is pleasant and is popular for hiking, birdwatching and horse-riding. Good camping grounds at the banks of Hólsá river, above by the lake Kirkjuvatn. Bolafjall mountain is also a popular attraction in summertime as it is possible to drive all the way to its top and enjoy spectacular views.
The popular Icelandic film Nói Albinói was filmed in Bolungarvík.
The mighty Langjökull, the ‘Long Glacier’, is the second-largest glacier in Iceland, at 935 square kilometres (361 square miles). For jeep and snowmobile trips, Langjökull is the most popular glacier in Iceland, and skiing and hiking here is possible as well.
Highland tracks
Langjökull is located in the Highlands, and two main highland tracks, connecting the north and the south of Iceland, lie alongside it.
The Kaldidalur road stretches from Þingvellir National Park northwards to Húsafell. The Kjalvegur road, meanwhile lies east of Langjökull and west of Hofsjökull glacier, starting near the famous Gullfoss waterfall to the south, and passing through the beautiful Hveravellir geothermal area to the north.
The landscape of Langjokull
Langjökull is about 50 kilometres (31 miles) long and up to 20 kilometres (12 miles) wide, and the ice is around 580 metres (1,903 feet) deep at its thickest. The glacier reaches its highest point in its northernmost part, which is called Baldjökull, rising around 1,450 metres (4,757 feet) above sea level.
The glacier lies over a massif of hyaloclastite mountains. The tops of these mountains can be seen in certain places on the glacier. It also conceals at least two active volcanic systems, the calderas of which are visible from the air.
The best known of these systems fuels the geothermal area of Hveravellir, east of Baldjökull. Also in the east lies the Kjalhraun lava field, which formed about 7800 years ago.
To the northwest of the glacier is another system that produced the vast Hallmundarhraun lava field, through which the Hvítá river runs in the direction of Gullfoss waterfall. Also in the area is Iceland‘s longest lava cave, the fascinating Surtshellir.
Southwest of Langjökull is the Presthnúkur lava field, fissures of which creep under the ice. South of the glacier is the Lambahraun lava field and even further south lies the Skjaldbreiðarhraun lava field and the Skjaldbreiður shield volcano.
Compared to other regions in Iceland, the area is considered relatively calm, with only 32 eruptions in the last 10,000 years.
Into the glacier
Near the highest peaks of Langjökull exists a man-made ice tunnel, a true spectacle for any visitor passing by the glacier. Designed and constructed by geophysicist and presidential candidate Ari Trausti Guðmundsson, the tunnel exists to allow visitors to explore the inside of a glacier without having to come to Iceland in mid-winter for a chance to see the less-than-reliable ice caves.
Guests traverse beneath Langjökull's thick ice sheet, experiencing the vivid blue colouration within, and gaining an insight into the glacier's beauty, formation and processes. It is the only place in the world where this is possible. ‘Into the Glacier’ tours are often combined with adventure activities such as snowmobiling.
Nearby glaciers
The glaciers located nearest to Langjökull are Eiríksjökull, which conceals the highest mountain in west Iceland, and Þórisjökull. Hrútfellsjökull also lies on the east side of Langjökull.
Between Þórisjökull and Geitlandsjökull is a valley called Þórisdalur. Along with stunning views, it features prominently in Icelandic folk tales; the outlaw Grettir the Strong of Grettis Saga, for example, is reported to have resided here for one winter.
Langjokull and the Golden Circle
Iceland’s most popular sightseeing route, the Golden Circle, would not be possible if not for Langjökull glacier; none of its three iconic features would exist in their current state without the melting ice.
Gullfoss waterfall is the most obvious example of this. The river that feeds into it, the Hvítá, is a glacier river flowing straight from Langjökull; the scale of the ice cap is hinted at by the sheer volume of water that cascades here every second.
The hot springs at Geysir, meanwhile, are supplied with water underground. Meltwater from Langjökull feeds into the surrounding lava fields, which have very porous rock, and flows in a subterranean river to the geothermal area, where it comes bursting out of the naturally forms vents.
While Þingvellir would still have its National Park and World Heritage status without Langjökull, which it received for being the original site of what is now the longest-running representative parliament in the world, it would be notably less beautiful.
Many springs exist throughout the park, also formed by the underground meltwater of the glacier. Due to its long filtration process, the water emerges as some of the clearest naturally occurring water in the world.
Silfra fissure, therefore, is the best snorkelling and diving location in the country and consistently ranked as one of the top ten places for such activities in the world.
Global warming
Langjökull is shrinking fast and concerns have been raised about the glacier due to the effect of global warming. Some researchers fear that if climate change continues at its current rate the glacier may be gone in 150 years. Less optimistic scientists have said it could be gone in as few as 50.
Arnarstapi is a village on the southern side of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, once a fishing hub and now a place for travellers to refuel before entering Snæfellsjökull National Park. The area has several old and charming houses with interesting stories to them and is renowned for its beautiful nature.
History of Arnarstapi
Records of settlements around Arnarstapi date back to the Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, an ancient Icelandic saga that tells of the half-human, half-ogre who once lived on the Snæfellsnes peninsula; after his death, he has been considered its guardian spirit.
The area was popular with settlers due to its natural harbour, meaning fishing in the rich herring grounds of the surrounding waters was easy. When Norway, and to a much greater extent when they took over, Denmark, were in control of Iceland, Arnarstapi grew increasingly as a trading port.
Denmark invested a lot of money into Arnarstapi throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (for their interests, unfortunately not those of the Icelanders). Many of the resulting buildings still stand today, being some of the oldest in the country, such as the Danish Prefect’s Residence, which was built in the 1770s.
In the industrial revolution, Arnarstapi’s population radically shrunk which was common in the countryside at this time. The vast majority of Iceland’s jobs were now centralised in Reykjavík, reducing opportunities for small-time fishermen and their businesses, and the town became little more than a hamlet as a result.
As Iceland’s infrastructure rapidly improved after independence in 1943, and more people abroad began to see the many wonders of this island as a travel destination; Arnarstapi, like many other settlements in the area, got a new lease on life.
Fishing and trade remain vital parts of the economy, but they now play second fiddle to tourism and services. The village has essential services for those travelling on the peninsula, a wide array of accommodation options, and tour companies operating from it.
Nature and Sites around Arnarstapi
The beach at Arnarstapi holds a particular attraction. It has an eroded circular stone arch, called Gatklettur, and here, the interplay of spectacular waves and the light of the sun create a fascinating spectacle. Large colonies of the arctic tern also nest in the area, and both these features make it very popular amongst photographers.
An old horse trail through the lava field Hellnahraun is highly popular for hiking, due to the impressiveness of the surrounding landscape.
Arnarstapi, however, should never be too long a stop on a tour of the peninsula. As lovely as it is, the natural attractions nearby simply warrant more time. The village, for example, sits on the cusp of Snæfellsjökull National Park, home to the Snæfellsjökull glacier and volcano, the beauty of which has inspired writers and artists for centuries.
This is one of only three National Parks in the country, but it is to the credit of the peninsula’s beauty that it is far from the only must-see destination around. Very close to Arnarstapi is the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs, huge towers of lava that from a distance look like a fortress.
Vatnshellir and Sönghellir and two nearby lava caves (the former of which can only be entered on a guided tour). There is also a beautiful cleft in a mountainside called Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge that it is possible to climb into.
Though a little further away, on the north of the peninsula, Kirkjufell mountain is also a wonderful site to behold.
Hverfell is an explosion crater on the east side of Lake Mývatn in northern Iceland and is one of the largest explosion craters in the world.
The diameter of the crater is 1000 metres and it is around 140 metres deep. It was formed in a volcanic explosion some 2800-2900 years ago.
Hverfell is also known as Hverfjall, both spellings are correct.
Vík í Mýdral, or just Vík, is the southernmost village on the Icelandic mainland, located 186 kilometres (110 miles) from the capital Reykjavík.
Often visited by those travelling the popular sightseeing route along the South Coast, it is a wonderful place to stop, recharge, and if you are taking your time, rest for the night. Though it only has around 300 residents, the village is very popular amongst tourists for its convenience and beautiful surrounding landscapes.
Features near Vik
Reaching Vík from Reykjavík takes approximately two and a half hours, and en route, there are many marvellous features to admire. Two of the country’s most famous waterfalls, Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, lay between the two destinations; the former has awe-inspiring power, whereas the latter can be fully encircled.
The glaciers Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull can also be seen on clear days; both of these cover volcanoes which are particularly explosive, with Eyjafjallajökull famously disrupting European air travel in 2010. Out to sea in especially good weather, the Westman Islands can also be seen on the horizon.
Just before Vík are the popular birdwatching cliffs of Dyrhólaey, where you can also find an enormous rock arch curving out into the ocean. This is one of the best places for birdwatching in Iceland, with thousands of puffins nesting here from May to August.
The village itself sits opposite one of the country’s most famous features: Reynisfjara black sand beach. Considered one of the world’s most beautiful non-tropical beaches, it boasts incredible geology.
Particularly of note are the Reynisdrangar sea-stacks, said to be two trolls frozen in the light of the morning sun as they tried to pull a ship into shore.
Though this beach makes for a lovely walk, particularly for those staying in Vík overnight, as they can see it under the midnight sun or northern lights, it has its dangers. Sneaker waves can be notorious here, so visitors should stay far from the water’s edge, and never go for a swim. Lives have been lost here before.
The route to Vík from Reykjavík is beautiful and continues to be so as you travel further along the South Coast, through the Skeiðarásandur black-sand-plains into Vatnajökull National Park. This beautiful region is often the final destination of those passing through Vík, as it is home to the largest glacier in Europe, the Skaftafell Nature Reserve, and Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.
Of course, ambitious travellers will carry on from here to encircle the full country.
Wildlife around Vik
Vík, due to its closeness to the Reynisfjall and Dyrhólaey cliffs, has a rich birdlife. Short walks from the village will take you to the nesting grounds of gulls, fulmar, guillemots, and in summer, puffins.
Due to its coastal location, visitors to Vík have a decent chance to see seals on the shore. There is also a slim chance to see whales or dolphins; the twenty or so species that live in Iceland’s waters can appear at any time.
Services in Vik
Vík has a wide variety of public services, due to its remoteness and its importance in connecting the east and west of Iceland. There are gas stations, shops and cafes, a swimming pool, a wool factory that can be visited, and a wide range of accommodation options for all budgets.
Please note, however, that as the village has such a small year-round population, those with special dietary requirements should purchase their food from Reykjavík before departing.
Seydisfjordur is a town of around 668 people in East Iceland, innermost of the fjord of the same name. Along with natural attractions, its annual LungA festival has gained it increased interest in later years.
Economy
The main economy of Seydisfjordur has largely been the fishing industry, but the town has seen increased tourism in later years. The town has a good harbour and the ferry Norraena is operated from there and sails over to Scandinavia. The town offers good services and has become increasingly popular for its annual LungA art festival.
Culture & history
Old and charming wooden houses are notable in the town and the country's oldest powerplant, Fjardasel, built in 1913, is located in the vicinity, near to many beautiful waterfalls. The town was used for British and American army bases during WWII and the remains from this activity can still be seen.
The town has a vibrant cultural scene. Artist Dieter Roth has a residence and art studio in Seydisfjordur and the town further hosts a telecommunications museum, an arts centre, one of the two cinemas in East Iceland, and, last but not least, the annual LungA festival.
The LungA art festival is July 14-18 and features workshops, exhibitions, a fashion show etc. as well as concerts. Many of Iceland's top musicians have participated in the festival, among them Retro Stefson, Samaris, Mugison, Ojba Rasta and Hermigervill.
Nature & nearby surroundings
There are several beautiful waterfalls in the area that are worth visiting, such as near Fjardarsel and in Fjardara river. The rock stratum Nedri Stafur, at an altitude of over 300 m is considered an absolute must-see for travelers of the area.
No less important, around 17 km from the town, is the nature reserve Skalanes, covering around 1250 hectars and featuring 47 different bird species and 150 plant species, along with many interesting geoloccal formations. Reindeers wander the area and seals and porpoises frequent the sand shores. Over 90 archeological sites can further be found in the area and impressive mountains are nearby. The nature reserve also features a nice guesthouse.
Vesturdalur (not to be confused with the one in North Iceland) is further popular for a hike. It has several nice waterfalls as well as archelocial sites and remains of former settlement. Mt. Bjolfur is also popular for hiking, and gives a good view of the area.
Grettislaug is a pool at Reykir in Skagafjordur in North Iceland. It is named after the outlaw Grettir of Grettis Saga fame, who was said to have warmed himself in a geothermal pool after his swim of about 7.5 kilometers from Drangey island.
The old spring disappeared in a storm in 1934 a long with another one, Reykjalaug, that had been used for washing. In 1992 farmer Jon Eiriksson of Fagranes, known as 'The earl of Drangey island', along with others, reconstructed it. In 2006 an adjacent pool was added. Both of the pools are built with natural stones and have a temperature of 42-43°C. Please note that there are no changing facilities around springtime.
The beach by Latrabjarg cliff, Europe's highest birdcliff and Europe's westernmost part, is called Rauðasandur. It is rare for its pale red, almost pink sand. Along with many seabirds, the beach also features hundreds of seals.
The remnants of a farm named Sjöundá can be found on Rauðasandur. At the beginning of the 19th century, it was the site of one of Iceland’s most famous murder cases.
Two farmers and their wives lived there but one farmer, Bjarni, and the other's wife, Steinunn, had an affair. They were sentenced to death, accused of having murdered their spouses. Bjarni was executed abroad but Steinunn died in prison in Reykjavík and was buried at Skólavörðuholt. In the 20th century, she was moved to consecrated grounds and is buried in Hólavallagarður in Reykjavík.
Steinunn's decendants, believing her innocent, recently gave her a tombstone.
Icelandic novelist Gunnar Gunnarsson based his masterpiece Svartfugl (The Black Bird) on the Sjöundá murder mystery.
In the desolate, dramatic, and awe-inspiring Strandir region of the Westfjords, the village of Hólmavík is the largest settlement. About 375 people (as of 2011) live there, and it serves as a centre of commerce for the area.
In spite of its small population, it has a fascinating history; it is notorious in Iceland for its link to witchcraft and witch-hunts, and as such, it is home to the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft. Magic in Icelandic history folklore is a constant and fascinating theme, so for those interested in legend or a darker side of history, the museum is a must-see.
Visitors with an appreciation for the past might also want to check out the village’s oldest house, built in the 19th Century and now home to the excellent coffeehouse/bar, Café Riis. Art buffs may appreciate that several well-known Icelandic artists were born in the area, such as poet Stefán frá Hvítadal and musician/composer Gunnar Þórðarson.
Fisheries and tourism services are the mainstay of the economy of Hólmavík, as well as farming in the countryside surrounding the village; those with interest in the latter can travel about 12 km from Hólmavík to the region’s Sheep Farming Museum. Here, visitors can learn about the history of Icelandic sheep farming and enjoy a nice cup of coffee, local bread and cakes at the caféteria. The surrounding area is also ideal for hiking. The peaks of Kálfanesborgir, in particular, give an impressive view of the region.
Siglufjörður is a town of about 1,300 people, located in North Iceland. It is the northernmost town of the mainland.
Along with its natural beauty, it is a cultural hub, with an award-winning Herring Era Museum, Folk Music Museum and the Folk Music Festival that attracts ever more travellers every year.
Economy
Siglufjörður has one of Iceland's best harbours and the fishing industry has been the mainstay of the economy for a long time. Like with the rest of Iceland, in recent years services and tourism have become increasingly essential parts of the economy.
Since the tunnels through the fjord Hedinsfjörður opened in 2010, the town has become much more easily accessible to those travelling the Ring Road of Iceland or staying in the northern town of Akureyri. Thus, there has been a large increase in visitors over the past decade.
History & Culture
Siglufjörður has an eventful history in its more recent years, seeing a quick rise in the early 20th Century from being a tiny village to becoming an established town by 1918. By the middle of the 20th century it was one of the largest settlements in Iceland.
From this period, it was the capital of herring fishing in the North Atlantic, and the town's fishing museum bears proud witness to this history. Here, you can learn all about how important the seas were to the survival of all Icelanders from settlement to modernisation.
Called the Herring Era Museum, it is one of Iceland's largest seafaring and industry museums in the country. It is split into three houses; in one, you can learn about the fishing itself and the national processing processes. In another, you can see many ships and boats from the 1950s. The salting station retains the old look of the place and on good summer days travelers may observe the salting process in action.
Finally, the old Grana factory shows how herring was transformed into meals and oil.
The Folk Music Center is another cultural centre, located where the reverend Bjarni Þorsteinsson, 'The Father of Siglufjörður', lived. Here, the the old folk songs are brought to life, and you can hear recordings of people singing quint songs, called tvisongur; chanting the epic rhymes, or rimur; playing the langspil; and singing the old Icelandic nursery rhymes.
The centre also depicts the life of reverend Bjarni.
The Folk Festival
In early July, Siglufjörður hosts it annual Folk Music Festival, including the folk music of various nations, but with a special focus on Icelandic folk music. Various events take place, including lectures and courses on music and handicraft, along with dances, concerts and parties.
Nature
Siglufjörður is located in a particularly beautiful fjord of the same name, and high and dramatic mountains tower over the town. The birdlife is varied, with some 2,000 birds of 16 to18 species usually be found in the fjord, particularly in summer.
Popular hiking trails include the passes Hólsskarð and Hestskarð, which lead to the beautiful fjord Hedinsfjörður, which may also be accessed by boat or car.
The deserted Hedinsfjörður is surrounded by steep and impressive mountains and has a beautiful valley with good trout fishing in the Héðinsfjarðarvatn lake.
The last farm here, of Hedinsfjörður, was abandoned in 1951. In the 20th Century, there were usually five inhabited farms in the fjord, as the vegetation in the region is rich and food could be obtained from land and sea. The winters were hard, however, the area saw many avalanches, and the fjord was also hard to reach, so none remain.
Northeast of Hedinsfjörður you'll find the remnants of one of the remote farms in Iceland, Hvanndalir. Hvanndalir can be reached from Hedinsfjörður, though we would only suggest this route to seasoned hikers, accompanied by professional guides, as it goes over a collapsed mountainside.
Photo from Golden Circle with Northern Lights, Fontana Spa & Traditional Cuisine
Laugarvatn is a hamlet of around 200 people, by the lake of the same name. Originally formed around the boarding school there, it is now best known for being a detour on the Golden Circle with a geothermal pool.
It is located in South Iceland, around 93 kilometres (56 miles) from Reykjavík. Laugarvatn is popular as a summer resort and as a stop for travelers, as it is located near many of Iceland’s top attractions, both natural and cultural, such as Gullfoss waterfall and Geysir, and the ancient Skálholt bishop seat.
Environment & Fontana Spa
The environment of Laugarvatn is very pleasant, as the town is surrounded by hills, lava fields, fertile countryside, and a forest has been planted and is ever growing. Brooks and streams further contribute to the scenery.
The beautiful and shallow Lake Laugarvatn is rich in aquatic life, with good char and lake trout fishing, although you need a permit in order to fish here. Boats and gear for watersport can be rented at Laugarvatn in summer when the weather is clear.
As the shores of the lake feature geothermal springs, it was decided to build a spa there.
At the Fontana spa at Laugarvatn you can relax in the excellent geothermal swimming pool and the three steam rooms which sit directly over bubbling hot pots and have near 100 percent humidity.
Photo from Golden Circle Day Tour with Fontana Spa
The spa also features a Finnish-style sauna and three interconnected mineral baths. At the spa you can also enjoy the stone artwork of artist Erla Þórarinsdóttir.
At the Viska hot tub you’ll further have a nice view of the Laugarvatn surroundings.
Compared to other geothermal pools like the Blue Lagoon, the Fontana Spa is smaller, more affordable, and lacks the renowned healing qualities (although most geothermal water is said to have some revitalising properties). It’s unique selling point comes in that it is possible here to wade out into the lake, where tongues of hot water can be felt brushing against your ankles.
Laugarvatn sits almost directly between Þingvellir National Park and the Geysir Geothermal Area, two points of the Golden Circle. The former is a natural wonderland, sitting between two tectonic plates and boasting crystal clear streams, forests, and incredible geology. The latter is home to the geysers of Geysir and Strokkur, as well as dozens of other hot springs and fumaroles.
The final point on the Golden Circle is Gullfoss Waterfall. Almost all travellers will see these three sites, as the route is the most popular sightseeing trail in the country. If driving yourself, Laugarvatn is just one of many popular detours you can take.
Gallery & Accommodation
While at Laugarvatn, it is also recommended for guests to check out the Gallery Laugarvatn, which features a wide display of Icelandic handicraft and offers bed and breakfast.
Laugarvatn has a boarding school that functions as a popular hotel, Hotel Edda, in the summer. A number of guesthouses, hostels, rental apartments and cottages are also to be found in the area. Laugarvatn offers basic services, with a gas station, shop and restaurants, and is highly popular throughout the year.
Photo from Minibus tour of the Golden Circle | The Classic Sites and Kerid Crater.
Kerið is a volcanic crater lake in Grímsnes, South Iceland. It is close to the three major sites that comprise Iceland’s world-famous Golden Circle sightseeing route, and makes for the perfect detour.
Kerið and the Golden Circle
The Golden Circle is Iceland’s most popular tourist route, which it is possible to explore on many tours in many different ways, or to traverse yourself. Its three main highlights are Gullfoss, or the ‘Golden Waterfall’; the Haukadalur Geothermal Valley, with its many springs and geysers; and Þingvellir National Park, the only UNESCO World Heritage Site on Iceland’s mainland and the birthplace of the country’s parliament.
Many operators define their tours from the others with extra stops, and Kerið crater is the most popular of these. It is approximately 40 minutes drive from Þingvellir and Haukadalur in different directions, allowing visitors to return to Reykjavík
If travelling to Kerið crater alone, please be aware that there is a small charge to walk upon it, of 400 ISK (about two Euros, or three US dollars). This is only to help the landowners preserve and protect the crater; after all, it is on privately owned land.
Other sites you may want to detour on when travelling the Golden Circle are the Sólheimar ecovillage, the Fontana Spa in Laugarvatn, the Secret Lagoon in Flúðir, and the Friðheimar tomato and horse farm.
Geology of Kerið
Kerið is approximately three thousand years old, making it approximately half the age of most volcanic calderas found in Iceland. This is the major reason as to why Kerið’s slopes are red in colour, rather than a volcanic black; the iron deposits are, geologically speaking, fresh.
This vivid redness is part of the appeal of visiting this crater. The crimson rocks contrast dramatically with their surroundings, particularly the intense azure colour of the waters within the crater lake, and the verdant bursts of vegetation.
Kerið is approximately 55 metres (180 feet) deep, 170 metres (558 feet) wide and 270 meters (886 feet) in circumference. It is possible to take a path right to the crater’s edge, to fully encircle it, and to descend down to the pristine waters of the crater lake.
Many crater lakes can found in this area, a region known as Iceland's Western Volcanic Zone. The area surrounding it is of barren, stark lava fields, further illustrating the volcanism of the region.
Scientists believe that Kerið was once a cone-shaped volcano. Upon eruption, it is widely believed that the volcano depleted its magma reserve, causing the foundation to fall in upon itself and result in the formation it has today. Of course, this was two thousand years before settlement, so no one is quite certain.
At some point in the centuries following the collapse, Kerið crater filled with water. The resulting lake is between seven and fourteen metres deep, depending on the time of year and the amount of rainfall.
The reason it is so vividly coloured is because of the minerals from the rocks, seeping into and dyeing the water the aquamarine colour for which it is renowned.
Gljúfrabúi (or Canyon Dweller) is a beautiful waterfall located at Hamragarðar in South Iceland, close to its better known counterpart, Seljalandsfoss waterfall. It is one of the hidden gems of the South Coast, and thus a great spot for photographers and those seeking to admire nature in peace.
Image from Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir
Nature of Gljúfrabúi
The 40 metre (131 feet) high Gljúfrabúi is hidden behind a huge cliff which faces out towards Iceland’s South Coast and the Atlantic Ocean. Because of its decent ‘hiding place’, it is overlooked by most travellers, in spite of the fact that thousands of people visit Seljalandsfoss, less than a kilometre away, every day.
A stream, the Gljúfurá, runs through a cleft in the cliff, and those who wish to approach the falls must do so by wading through these waters.
After a few metres of travelling through a narrow valley, the space will open, and here, Gljúfrabúi tumbles before a great boulder, which it is possible to climb upon for some great photos. With the open sky above, mossy walls, silver mist and black lava, it is one of Iceland’s most breathtaking gems, seemingly from a fantasy story.
This is especially the case on sunny days, where rainbows curve through the water’s spray.
It is also possible to see Gljúfrabúi from above. There is a steep path that allows you to clamber up the cliff, at some points with the aid of ropes.
Both these routes are mildly challenging and have their dangers, so only attempt to reach Gljúfrabúi if you are in a decent state of health and confident on your feet. They should only be attempted when there is not ice on the ground, and in the case of the path up the cliff, when it is wet and slippery.
Surroundings of Gljúfrabúi
Gljúfrabúi is in one of the most travelled regions of Iceland, on the South Coast along the Ring Road. This means that it is very easy to reach, either alone or on a guided tour, just an hour and a half’s drive from the capital.
As mentioned, Gljúfrabúi is about ten minutes walk north Seljalandsfoss. Interestingly, this is one of the country’s most famous and photographed waterfalls, due to the fact it falls from a concave cliff which allows visitors to fully encircle the cascade.
Seljalandsfoss is taller than Gljúfrabúi at 60 metres (196 metres), with a similar waterflow. Both are fed by the meltwater of the glacier Eyjafjallajökull, the volcano beneath which caused widespread problems to air traffic across Europe when it erupted in 2010.
A much more powerful waterfall can be found just half hour’s drive or so along the Ring Road, called Skógafoss. This is a similar height to Seljalandsfoss, but up to 30 metres (98 feet) wide after a heavy rain.
Another popular site in the area is Sólheimajökull, the most popular glacial outlet in Iceland for glacier hiking. This feature is on Sólheimasandur, a vast expanse of volcanic ash that resembles a black sand desert.
Those who travelling a little further along the South Coast will reach the cliffs of Dyrhólaey, with their beautiful rock arch and resident puffins in summer, and the beach of Reynisfjara, renowned for it powerful waves and basalt sea-stacks, called Reynisdrangar.
All these sites can be visited with ease within a day.
Photo from 3 great reasons for visiting beautiful Hofsós.
Located in the north-west, Hofsós is one of the oldest trading posts in Iceland, dating back to the 1500s. Today, it is a sleepy fishing village, though tourism is now on the rise thanks to the recent addition of a designer swimming pool.
History
Located in the north-west, Hofsós is one of the oldest trading posts in Iceland, dating back to the 1500s. Today, it is a sleepy fishing village, though tourism is now on the rise thanks to the recent addition of a designer swimming pool.
In the 16th century, Hofsós seemed destined to develop into a large and prosperous town. It was built centre-north of the country, there was easy access for boats to land, the fishing was rife and, most importantly, it was a trading port for the Danish Trade Monopoly. Given that Iceland was under Danish crown rule, this trade monopoly ensured the then King of Denmark, Christian IV, that he could both pursue his mercantilist priorities and maintain overseas territories.
An old wooden warehouse, Pakkhúsið, still exists in the town dating back to this period, which ended in 1786 following the cessation of the Danish Trade Monopoly. However, Hofsós failed to develop substantially in the 20th Century, and to this day is still a fairly quiet village West of Akureyri.
Culture
A number of harbourside buildings have been converted to the Iceland Emigration Centre, a museum dedicated to the story of Icelandic emigration to North America.
Icelander Leif Erikson was, arguably, the first man of European descent to make landfall in North America, estimated at around 1000 AD, five centuries before Christopher Columbus. His worthy voyage cowers in comparison to the countries’ later mass exodus. Iceland lost 16,000 residents between 1870 to 1914, all pursuing the dream of a “New Iceland”.
Further thousands left after the Second World War, many settling in the Upper Midwest of the United States. The Iceland Emigration Centre’s main exhibition is a collection of letters, photographs and displays called “New Land, New Life”, which brings this story to greater attention.
Since 2010, Hofsós has boasted an outdoor swimming pool and adjacent hot pot— Sundlaugin á Hofsósi—built fjord side and beautifully integrated into the landscape. Swimmers are privy to truly majestic views of the area. Boat tours are available for bird watching and sightseeing trips to the uninhabited island of Málmey.
Fáskrúðsfjörður (sometimes referred to as Búðir) is a coastal village in east Iceland with a population of 700 people. The name of the village originates from the small but incredibly majestic island, Skrúður, situated at the mouth of the fjord that shares the village name.
History
Historically, Fáskrúðsfjörður’s settlement, development and culture has been noticeably different from other towns and villages in Iceland. The village was originally settled by French seaman, hungry for bountiful waters, who came to fish at the Icelandic coastline in the mid 1800s. The fishermen built houses, a hospital and a harbour - all that they could need whilst at Fáskrúðsfjörður.
This operation continued efficiently onward until the First World War, when Frenchmen world over were called to the defence of France. Signposts around the town are written in both Icelandic and French as a nod to this heritage, and the Fáskrúðsfjörður’s sister town, Gravelines, celebrates the connection twice every year. Consequently, on the last weekend of every July, Fáskrúðsfjörður residents celebrate their gallic heritage with cuisine, street parties and events as part of the French Day festivities.
The full story of French settlement can be found at the former (and some say haunted) French Hospital. Originally built in 1907, the hospital fell into decay for almost sixty years, but has now been renovated as both a hotel and a museum. Outside of the town is a graveyard - le Cimetiere Francais - where 46 French sailors are buried.
Geography
Nearby, the laccolithic mountain, Sandfell (743m), is one of the finest examples of an igneous mountain in the world and makes for fantastic hiking. Formed after molten rhyolite broke through ancient lava layers, Sandfell has a unique, dome shaped appearance and is unable to grow vegetation. This is, geologically speaking, a rare occurrence in Iceland, and a source of pride for Fáskrúðsfjörður residents. It is a 2-3 hour hike to the top of the Sandfell, the summit providing gorgeous views of the regional landscape.
Visitors are also advised to hike the path along Gilsá river towards the waterfall Gilsárfoss, where they are able to walk behind the cascading water. For devout anglers, fishing is readily accessible in the nearby Dalsá river.
Fjaðrárgljúfur is a beautiful, dramatic canyon in South Iceland, close to the historic town of Kirkjubæjarklaustur.
Fjaðrárgljúfur is little known and is thus far less crowded than other sites in the area, such as Skaftafell nature reserve, and Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Its beauty and isolation make it a dream location for photographers and hikers alike.
Though the valley was only formed at the end of the last ice age approximately 10,000 years ago, the bedrock here is much older, dating back two million years. The ravine was created by the runoff from a glacial lake, which wore away the soft stone and left only the more resistant rocks behind.
Geography of Fjaðrárglúgur
Fjaðrárglúgur is about 100 metres (328 feet) deep and 2 km (1.25 mi) long, with sheer walls dotted with many waterfalls.
It is possible to walk along the ridges above, or in the valley itself. The site is popular amongst photographers for the contrasts between the dark rocks, foaming waters and verdant moss. Of course, if the midnight sun or northern lights are out, it is a shutterbug’s paradise.
If taking the route along ridges of the valley, look up as well as down, as, in clear weather, you will attain great views of the South Coast, Highlands, and surrounding glaciers.
If taking the latter route, know that the river Fjaðrá runs through the canyon, and though its waters are often shallow, those exploring may have to wade through it. While this is safe, you will want either waterproof, sturdy boots, or sandals with a strap on the back that you can easily change in and out of.
This tributary runs into the greater Skaftá river.
Fjaðrárglúgur’s Surroundings
The closest settlement to Fjaðrárglúgur is Kirkjubæjarklaustur, often nicknamed Klaustur by locals. This is a place with a long religious history; it was home to the country’s first convent, and is said to be the only place in the country that the Old Norse faith was never practiced.
Many local sites are named after the nuns who once lived in the area, such as Systrastapi (Sister’s Rock) and Systrafoss (Sister’s Falls).
Fjaðrárglúgur is a great place to stop for those travelling the South Coast as they make their way from Reykjavík or Vík towards Skaftafell and the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.
The South Coast itself is lined with other features to visit during your travel. These include the dramatic waterfalls Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss; the former is famed for its scale, and the latter for the fact that you can walk all around it.
You will also see sites such the beach Reynisfjara, with its great sea-stacks, Reynisdrangar, said to be trolls frozen in the light of the morning sun. Other coastal features include the Dyrhólaey cliffs and arch, which is a paradise for birdwatchers in summer, due to the fact that it is home to thousands of nesting puffins.
The South Coast can be explored in a day, but to get to all the sites and enjoy them properly, visitors are encouraged to spend two or three days in the region.
The fishing village of Drangsnes can be found at the mouth of the Steingrímsfjörður fjord, in the Westfjords of Iceland. Drangsnes is part of the Kaldrananeshreppur municipality, with the village of Hólmavík as its closest neighbour. The region itself takes its name from a rock called Kerling, whom locals say was once a troll woman, turned to stone for attempting to break the Westfjords from the rest of Iceland.
The village has three, public-use hot tubs located on the shoreline. There is no direct signage, and the tubs rest a few metres below the nearest road, making them a little difficult to locate. Once they’re found, however, visitors can soak themselves to a vista of incredible mountainscapes and fjord-side views. All of the hot tubs are heated by a natural geothermal spring just beneath them. One pool is kept fairly cool, while the other two heat up progressively. With such a small population, the Drangsnes hot pools have become a favourite amongst tourists and locals alike for viewing Northern Lights in the dead of winter.
To the north of Drangsnes, visitors can access a long and winding road that takes them out into true, wild beauty. There are no amenities on this route, but the journey is worth it for the sheer spectacle of the sights of themselves. Dramatic, rocky escarpments and beautiful coastal bays are prevalent throughout the route. This is also the opening setting for the saga Njálssaga.
Kirkjufell, or Church Mountain, is a distinctly shaped peak found on the north shore of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula, only a short distance away from the town of Grundarfjörður. It is often called ‘the most photographed mountain in Iceland’, due to its dramatic formation and perfect coastal location.
Kirkjufell takes its name from its resemblance to a church steeple, sharpened at the top with long curved sides. From other angles, the mountain has been compared to a witch’s hat or even a freshly scooped ice cream.
Photography at Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall
Peaking at 463 metres, 1519 feet, Kirkjufell is an impressive landmark. Throughout the centuries, Kirkjufell’s striking slopes have acted as a visual landmark for seafarers and travellers. More recently, it has attracted amateur and professional photographers alike.
Within walking distance from Kirkjufell is the serene and perfectly located waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss, or Church Mountain Falls, an excellent subject for photographers who can easily frame the mountain in the background. Despite its relatively diminutive height, Kirkjufellsfoss’ three-steps, gentle flow, and dramatic differences between seasons makes it as impressive as some of Iceland’s larger waterfalls.
At the base of the mountain, visitors will also be able to find a lake; on calm and clear days, this lake reflects a perfect mirror image of Kirkjufell, only adding to the fantastic photo opportunities around this area.
On top of that, the colours of Kirkjufell change with the passing seasons; the summer sees it a lush green, full of life, whilst the winter months scar the mountain’s face with a mask of barren brown and white. Of course, it is more impressive under the midnight sun in the weeks surrounding the June equinox, and under the northern lights, best seen between September and April.
Fans of the HBO series Game of Thrones will recognise Kirkjufell as a shooting location from Season 7 of Game of Thrones. The mountain is showcased from the scenes ‘North beyond the Wall’ when Jon Snow, The Hound and Jorah Mormont, amongst others, brave the wilderness in hopes of catching an undead wight.
Having seen it in a vision, The Hound acknowledges Kirkjufell as “[...] the mountain like an arrowhead”, and the events that happen beneath it are some of the show’s most dramatic.
Though heavily edited to appear inlandsand much larger than it is, it is instantly recognisable to those who recognise Kirkjufell.
Hiking Kirkjufell
There is a fairly steep trail to the top of Kirkjufell, from where there are magnificent panoramas of the surrounding fields, coastlines and rivers. The mountain takes roughly an hour and a half to ascend, with another one and a half hours needed to get back to the bottom.
Alongside this mountain-track is a steeper route to the peak which involves two points where one needs to rope-climb. This route should never be attempted in the winter, and never without a certified guide.
Given the steep elevation, it is highly recommended that you bring a sturdy pair of hiking boots, snacks and water to the trail. Only take it if you are experienced and confident, as there have been fatal accidents here before.
Getting to Kirkjufell
Kirkjufell is extremely close to Grundarfjörður, a small town on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, just over two hours drive from Iceland's capital city, Reykjavik. From Grundarfjörður, one travels ten minutes west down Route Snaefellsnesvegur 54 to the base of Kirkjufell. Visitors have plenty of parking space to choose from, all free of charge.
Photo by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir
Kirkjubæjarklaustur (referred to locally as ‘Klaustur’) is a village of approximately 120 inhabitants in the Skaftárhreppur municipality of south of Iceland.
Situated by the Ring Road, approximately 250 km (155 miles) east of Reykjavík, Klaustur is one of the few villages providing amenities such as fuel, shops, a bank and a supermarket between Vík í Mýrdal and Höfn.
History
The history of Kirkjubæjarklaustur differs, in many respects, to the traditional Icelandic settlement. “Papar”, the Icelandic title for travelling Irish monks, were thought to have settled the area long before the Norsemen.
In that tradition, it was claimed that pagans of no kind would set foot in Klaustur; this was a strictly Christian area.
Stories have permeated, with one telling of a pagan, Hildir Eysteinsson, who attempted to move there in the 10th Century. Upon setting foot across the border, he fell instantly dead and was buried on the neighbouring hill, Hildishaugur (“Hildir’s Mound.”)
Despite twisting the tongue, the full village name 'Kirkju-bæjar-klaustur' actually tells the story of the area well; 'Kirkju' means church, 'bæjar' means farm and 'klaustur' means convent.
The word 'Klaustur' was added to the original name 'Kirkjubær' in 1186 AD when a convent of Benedictine nuns settled there.
In the 364 years leading to the Reformation in 1550 AD, Klaustur did much for the oral history of south Iceland. Systrastapi (Sister’s Rock), the Systrafoss waterfall and lake Systravatn all take their names from the nun’s settlement.
Folklore
Photo by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir
The folklore relating to these sites are rich in tales of religious heresy, superstition and death.
Sister’s Rock, for instance, has been said to be the burial site of two nuns executed for sinful behaviour. The nuns were accused of all sorts of behaviour, including selling their soul to the devil, removing communion bread from church, carnal knowledge with men, and blasphemy toward the pope.
Guilty or not, the nuns were swiftly burnt at the stake.
Following the Reformation, one of the nuns was vindicated for her actions, and it is said that flowers soon bloomed on top of her grave. The other’s grave has remained barren, a continuing reminder of the lady’s ethereal disapproval.
Nearby attractions
Despite its petite size, Klaustur is an important crossroads to the attractions nestled at the centre of the island, namely the Laki Craters in Vatnajökull National Park and the Landmannalaugar hiking trails in the scenic Fjallabak Nature Reserve. Only a few kilometres from the village itself lies the spectacular Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon.
A short walk east of Kirkjubæjarlaustur will take you to the fascinating Kirkjugólfið “Church Floor”, an 80 square metre flat of basalt columns, shaped and formed naturally by tide and glacial melts. The aforementioned Sisters Rocks and Sisters Waterfalls can be walked to from the village as well.
These three sites are little known of, so should be visited by those avoiding the crowds.
Due to its location on the South Coast, Klaustur is visited or passed through by those travelling to the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Skaftafell Nature Reserve or ice caves, or those encircling the whole country.
Snæfellsjökull National Park is found on the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and is one of three National Parks in Iceland. It is named after its crowning glacier and volcano.
Established in 2001, it is neither the oldest nor the largest National Park; those honours go to Þingvellir and Vatnajökull respectively. Within its borders, however, it has a wealth of sites for visitors to enjoy.
Features in Snæfellsjökull National Park
Snæfellsjökull National Park’s main feature is obviously the sub-glacial volcano Snæfellsjökull. This twin-peaked phenomenon is at the tip of the peninsula, and visible across Faxaflói Bay from Reykjavík on clear days.
It has inspired artists and writers for centuries. Most famously, it was the primary setting for the Jules Verne novel ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’ and the Halldór Laxness novel ‘Christianity Beneath the Glacier’. Beyond its inspiration to artists, the site also provides adventure to thrill-seekers; it is a popular place for both glacier hiking and super jeep tours.
Another feature within the National Park is the Buðahraun lava field, which encircles the glacier. This moss-coated terrain gives the area a haunting, otherworldly air, especially when grey or snow-coated in the winter months.
The coastline is also worthy of some time sightseeing; the beaches of Djúpalónssandur and Skarðsvík have fascinating geology, beautiful seascapes, and interesting histories. The Lóndrangar basalt fortress, however, is perhaps the most dramatic and picturesque example.
A final feature of the National Park is its lava caves. While most of these are inaccessible, you can take tours into Vatnshellir throughout summer.
Features Around Snæfellsjökull National Park
Snæfellsjökull National Park is adjacent to Arnarstapi and Hellnar on its south, and Hellissandur and Ríf on its north, all historic fishing villages that have managed to preserve the old culture of the peninsula when it was Iceland’s trading hub. All four of these settlements have options for accommodation.
Within an hour of driving, it is possible to reach many other sites of Snæfellsnes. These include the second most defining mountain on the peninsula, Mount Kirkjufell; Ytri Tunga, a seal-watching beach; and Rauðfeldsgjá, a mightily impressive gorge that slices into a mountainside.
Hvítserkur, otherwise known as the Troll of Northwest Iceland, is a 15 m (49 ft) tall basalt rock stack protruding from Húnaflói Bay. The rock is a nesting ground for seagulls, shag and fulmar, making it appear constantly in motion, further enforcing the idea that Hvítserkur is, in some way, very much alive.
Hvítserkur is best viewed along the eastern shore of Vatnsnes Peninsula and takes its name from the birdlife that nests on top of it. In Icelandic, the name translates to “white shirt”, a nod to the colour of the bird droppings that cover the rock.
Photographers tend to be drawn to Hvítserkur as a subject due to the way the sun, moon, and aurora borealis reflect off of the flat water around its distinctive form.
Folklore of Hvítserkur
It should come as no surprise that Hvítserkur is often referred to as a troll—most distinctive Icelandic rocks are. Folklore says that Hvítserkur was originally a troll from the peninsula, determined to rip the bells down from Þingeyraklaustur convent; trolls, unlike elves, are said to be terrified of Christianity.
The beast was so enraged and persistent that it did not notice the rising sun, and was instantly petrified for eternity in its rays.
In hindsight, like most of Iceland’s folktales, it seems this one had a Christian message not so subtly weaved into it. It is likely that the story was an allusion to the people’s stoic resistance to the Christianisation of Iceland, implying those who held onto the view were as stubborn, stupid, violent and wicked as trolls, and perhaps on their way to a similar fate.
Iceland converted to Christianity in 1000 AD under the threat of invasion from Norway, and the transition was not easy; those who practised the religion of the Old Norse Gods were ostracised and punished for the millennium that followed.
Formation of Hvítserkur
The scientific community has another explanation for how Hvítserkur formed. Erosion from the cascading sea water has carved three large holes through the basalt rock, sculpting and shaping it into what appears as some petrified, mythological animal.
The base of the stack has been reinforced with concrete to protect its foundations from the sea, but this has not stopped visitors’ interpreting the rock’s peculiar shape.
Some say Hvítserkur looks like more like an elephant than a troll, while others claim it looks like a rhino. Some onlookers have gone as far as to claim the rock appears as a dragon or dinosaur drinking.
Sites Nearby Hvítserkur
Hvítserkur is located on Vatnsnes Peninsula, the best seal watching location in the country. In the town of Hvammstangi, there is the Icelandic Seal Centre, where visitors can learn all about how these charming animals have influenced the nation’s survival and folklore. The town also has some small shops and a restaurant with beautiful sea views.
To the south of Hvítserkur one can find the beach of Sigríðarstaðir, which is arguably the most reliable and rewarding location viewing seal colonies in the country.
Hvítserkur is also only a short drive from the historical and quintessential Súluvellir farm, a location that boasts incredible views of the surrounding landscape.
Photo from Goðafoss Waterfall and the Mývatn Nature Baths
The Mývatn Nature Baths are a set of geothermally heated pools and steam baths found in the Lake Mývatn area. They are about two kilometres east of the village of Reykjahlíð, and a fantastic example of Iceland’s hot spring culture.
Opened in 2004, the Mývatn Nature Baths can be considered to be somewhat of a northern equivalent of the world-famous Blue Lagoon Spa, found in Iceland's south-west. It is the only pool of its size in the area and is ever increasing in popularity. It is recommended you book tickets in advance in the summer.
Facilities and Price of the Mývatn Nature Baths
The Mývatn Nature Baths are centred around a large lagoon, which has a temperature of about 36 to 40 degrees Celsius (97 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit). The water here is packed with minerals, particularly sulphur, which is said to be good for respiratory and skin problems.
There are also two steam-baths, sat directly on top of churning geothermal waters. The temperature in these is close to 50 degrees Celsius (122 degrees Fahrenheit), and humidity is near 100%, so be sure to be well hydrated before going in. The site also has a hot tub and a separate pool for young children, as well as a restaurant.
The price for adult entry is 4,200 ISK for the winter season (until the end of April) and 4,700 ISK in summer (until the end of September); 1,600 and 2000 ISK respectively for teenagers aged 13-15; 2,700 and 3,000 ISK respectively for senior citizens; and free for those 12 and younger with an adult.
Sites Around the Mývatn Nature Baths
The Mývatn region is one of the most diverse in Iceland. You will not have to drive longer than an hour from the Nature Baths to come across natural geothermal areas, such as those at Mount Námaskarð. On this pass, you will find dozens of seething fumaroles and bubbling mud pits, that dye the land vivid colours and fill the air with noxious fumes.
Nearby you will also find geological wonders, such as at Dimmuborgir. This ‘lava fortress’ is unbelievably dramatic, and steeped in folklore; it is said that this is where the thirteen evil Santas of Iceland live. It is no wonder it was used in Game of Thrones as the setting for Mance Raider’s Wildling Camp.
Another nearby site used in Game of Thrones that combines both geothermal energy and geological beauty is the Grjótagjá hot spring cave. While you cannot bathe here, you can feel the water and see where Jon Snow and his Wildling lover consumated their relationships.
The lake Mývatn itself is beautiful and renowned for its birdlife, with over a dozen species of duck, to say nothing of the other species. Those interested in flora will be interested to know that this is one of the few places in the world where you can see moss balls.
The Mývatn area is also considered a point on the Diamond Circle, so it is close to other incredible places of the North, such as Goðafoss and Dettifoss Waterfalls.
Námaskarð Pass is a geothermal area on the mountain Námafjall, in north Iceland, less than half an hour’s drive from Lake Mývatn. It is located by Route 1, which encircles the country.
Connected to the Krafla volcano system, Námaskarð is home to many hot-springs, mud-pots and fumaroles.
Geography of Námaskarð
Námaskarð is notable due to its barrenness; no vegetation grows on its slopes. This is due to the heat beneath the earth, the high levels of acidity in the soil, and poisonous fumes being expelled.
That is not to say, however, that the site is dull; its life comes from the vivid colours that streak through the earth, dyed by the elements brought up with the steam. Expect to see shades of red, orange, yellow and green, particularly concentrated around the springs themselves.
The air smells intensely of sulphur throughout the area, which, while unpleasant, is a constant reminder of the powerful forces at work beneath your feet. Though it would be damaging for your health to spend too long breathing it, a visit for a few hours will not cause any problems.
While exploring Námaskarð, be sure not to touch any of the running water, as it is likely to be boiling. Also, give all the hot springs a reasonably wide berth, as the land surrounding them may be unstable, with scalding steam just beneath the surface.
Námaskarð is about 400 metres (1312 ft) above sea level.
Surroundings of Námaskarð
Námaskarð is situated between the mighty waterfalls of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river (which include Europe’s most powerful waterfall, Dettifoss) and the Lake Mývatn area, making it a natural part of anyone’s itinerary if they are exploring the north from Akureyri or Mývatn.
Those travelling the Diamond Circle are also encouraged to make a stop here if they have time.
Wikimedia. Creative Commons. Credit: Kolbrún Ragna.
Flatey ('Flat Island') is just one of the thousands of islands that dot Breiðafjörður, a large bay that splits the Snæfellsnes peninsula from the Westfjords.
Visiting the island is truly a step back in time, with visitors gaining insight into the traditions and customs of Icelandic islanders.
Flatey takes its name from the fact that the island doesn't have any hills. It is roughly 2 km (1.2 mi) long and 1 km (0.6 mi) wide. It is thought that Flatey, like the surrounding islands of Breiðafjörður, was formed during the last Ice Age, carved out by an enormous ancient glacier.
History & Present Day
The island was once a commercial and cultural centre, boasting prosperous trade routes. Today, Flatey is only inhabited during the summer months with enough people to maintain the community. This season sees Flatey highly populated again with domestic visitors, foreign guests and second homeowners. Still on the island today, guests can visit the smallest, and oldest, library in Iceland (built 1864) and a church built in 1926.
Lagarfjlót is a narrow lake in the east of Iceland, also known as Lögurinn.
This feature is best known for its natural beauty, its fishing, and its folklore.
Folklore at Lagarfjlót
No doubt the most fascinating thing about Lake Lagarfjlót is its folklore, and the feature has long attracted the superstitious to East Iceland.
According to legend, the deep lake is said to hold a beast called the Lagarfljót Wyrm, a cousin of the Loch Ness Monster with a lot more history. While the earliest significant records of Nessie go back to the 1870s, the Lagarfjlót Wyrm has been spoken about since 1345.
Even today, videos and photos emerge of disruption at the surface of the lake, said to be the venom spitting beast. While most are attributed to logs, currents, ice and wind, there are a few that have experts puzzled, with no concrete answer as to what they could be.
As such a little culture has arisen around the lake, and you can see figurines and sculptures depicting different interpretations of this elusive serpent.
Of course, however, there has been no concrete evidence to suggest anything lives in the lake other than trout and other fish. If you are interested in fishing for these, you will need a license.
Sites near Lagarfljót
Any visitor to East Iceland will no doubt see Lagarfljót, as it is located right next to the Capital of the East, Egilsstaðir. This is the region’s largest town and its commerce centre. Many of its accommodation options are set against the lake edge.
Iceland’s largest forest, Hallormsstaðaskógur, also sits on its shores. This is an amazing place for birdwatching, and where the forest and lake meet, one can find a wealth of ducks, geese and other water birds.
Lake Lagarfljót is also near to the beautiful falls Hengifoss. This is Iceland’s third tallest waterfall, with a height of 128 metres (420 feet).
Photo by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir.
Hengifoss is a waterfall that runs from the river Hengifossá in the municipality of Fljótsdalshreppur in East Iceland. At 128 metres (420 feet) it is the third tallest waterfall in the country.
The trail leading up to the waterfall is one of the most popular hiking routes in all of East Iceland, but visitors can reach the falls from the nearby parking lot by hiking for approximately 50 minutes.
Geography
The waterfall is surrounded by layers of basaltic strata. In between the basaltic layers are thin layers of red clay. Geologists have also discovered fossilised trees within the layers, evidential of much warmer periods during the tertiary period. Further down the waterfall’s river, Hengifossá, is another, smaller waterfall known as Litlanesfoss, which hikers should pass on their way from the parking lot up to Hengifoss. The river eventually runs into the famous Lake Lagarfljót, home to the mythological sea wyrm Lagarfljótsormur.
Photo from Into the Underworld | Vatnshellir Caving Tour
Vatnshellir Cave is a lava tube on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and a popular site for caving tours.
Geology of Vatnshellir Cave
Vatnshellir is one of Iceland’s older lava tubes that can be explored, having been formed in an eruption 8,000 years ago. To compare, Iceland’s other most popular lava tunnels for caving, Viðgelmir and Leiðarendi, are only one and two thousand years old respectively.
Like all lava tubes in Iceland, Vatnshellir was created when during an eruption, a river of molten rock began to cool from outside in. The effect left a crust over still-flowing lava, which, after flushing away, left a hollow tube.
The minerals of this lava can still be seen in Vatnshellir today. The rocks are vividly coloured, with reds representing deposits of iron, yellows representing sulphur, and greens representing copper.
Vatnshellir is 200 metres (656 feet) long, with a deepest point of 35 metres (114 feet).
Lava Caving in Vatnshellir
Lava caving is possible in Vatnshellir throughout the summer months with a guided tour. Taking such a tour is essential, as guides know the caves in and out, and will bring all the equipment you need. Alone, they are notoriously easy to get lost and hurt in.
Vatnshellir is easier to enter than its cousin Leiðarendi, as it has a staircase descending into it. Unlike Viðgelmir, however, the ground is not paved and the walls are not lit, so you need a reasonable level of fitness and confidence on your feet to traverse it comfortably. Even so, children as young as five can join the fun.
When travelling the cave, you will learn about Iceland’s geology and folklore, as trolls were said to make the caves their homes in many tales. You will also get to experience total darkness by shutting off your lights at the deepest point.
Location of Vatnshellir cave
Vatnshellir is a protected site, as it is within the Snæfellsjökull National Park. This park sits right on the tip of the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula, meaning you can include many nearby sites in a visit to it.
These include the basalt sea stacks of Lóndrangar, the fishing villages of Arnarstapi and Hellnar, and the pyramid-shaped peak Kirkjufell.
Credit: Wikimedia, Creative Commons, by Emstrur
Located in the Westfjords of Iceland, Patreksfjörður is a charming village of approximately 650 inhabitants.
This settlement, in the southern part of the region, is close to many major attractions. Those in the nearest vicinity include Dynjandi, one of the country’s most unique and spectacular waterfalls, Látrabjarg, Iceland’s best birdwatching spot, and Rauðasandur, a beautiful beach with orange sands.
Patreksfjörður has several options for accommodation, restaurants, cafes, and a swimming pool, making it a perfect place to stay for those exploring the Westfjords.
Djúpivogur is a small coastal village located on the Búlandsnes peninsula, nestled between the picturesque fjord, Hamarsfjörður, and Berufirth in east Iceland.
The town has an approximate population of 400 people. Fishing has been the primary engine for Djúpivogur’s economy for centuries. In recent times, the tourism industry has blossomed and a hotel, restaurants, cafés, a campground and shops can all be found in and around the town.
History
Djúpivogur’s history is deeply interlinked with trading. Records show that Djúpivogur was a trading centre as far back as 1589, meaning over four centuries of commerce in the region. The historic building Langabúð (the oldest warehouse in Djúpivogur), constructed in 1790, has recently been renovated and now serves as the town's cultural centre. Inside is the Heritage Museum, dedicated Djúpivogur’s commercial past.
The cultural centre also displays the incredible sculptures of the late artist, Ríkarður Jónsson (1888-1977). In addition, the town has excellent sports facilities, a swimming pool, museums, and a garden of outdoor sculptures named Eggin in Gleðivík, by Sigurður Guðmundsson. By design or not, these sculptures perfectly capture the prospering local birdlife across the region and make for beautiful photographs.
Culture
The landscape around Djúpivogur is overshadowed by Búlandstindur, a pyramid-shaped basalt mountain peaking at 1069m. The mountain is known across Iceland for it’s staggering, almost sculpted beauty. According to local folklore, the mountain is able to grant wishes during the summer solstice and is an ‘energy centre’ for the entire country.
Papey
From Djúpivogur, boat tours can be taken to the largest island off east Iceland. Papey, roughly 2 square kilometres in size, was inhabited since the settlement of Iceland until as recently as 1966. The island still resonates with the ghosts of this lost settlement. The oldest wooden church in Iceland, constructed in 1807, can be found in Papey, alongside an automated weather station and a lighthouse. The island is home to an enormous colony of Atlantic Puffins, and is a fabulous day trip from mainland Iceland.
Photo by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir
Djúpalónssandur is an arched-shaped bay of dark cliffs and black sand, located on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland.
History & Monuments
The location was once home to a prosperous fishing village, similar to other abandoned hamlets and ports of the area such as Búðir and Hellnar. These thrived back when the Snæfellsnes Peninsula functioned as one of the most active trading posts of the island, but now are simply centres for tourism.
Fascinating remnants of this period are found in the form of four ancient lifting stones that still occupy the beach. The stones range in weight from 23 kg (50 lbs) to 155 kg (342 lbs) and were used to test the strength of fishermen. Their names are Amlóði (useless), Hálfdrættingur (weakling), Hálfsterkur (half-strong) and Fullsterkur (full-strong).
Even today, you can see how you would have fared working on Iceland's dangerous seas.
In 1948, the English trawler Epine GY 7 from Grimsby shipwrecked on the shore, with fourteen dead and five survivors. The rusty iron remains of the vessel remain scattered on the beach, now protected as a monument to those who perished.
Environment & Surroundings
The Snæfellsnes Peninsula boasts countless natural wonders, where locals and travellers both flock on a daily basis to enjoy the unique landscape and stunning coastlines. Djúpalónssandur’s black pebble beach is particularly stunning with its rocky coastal lava formations, which include the elusive Gatklettur, a large lava rock with a hole in the middle through which you can directly spot the Snæfellsjökull glacier volcano.
Behind the rock are two freshwater lagoons called Djúpulón and Svörtulón, with the former serving as the namesake of the bay. Though believed in olden times to be bottomless, the water bodies were later revealed to reach the depth of just five metres.
Lagoons such as these are held in high regard amongst the Icelandic people, and Svörtulón is thought to possess healing properties, especially after having been blessed by Bishop Guðmundur góði ('the good') in the late 1100s.
A natural monument of the area is Söngklettur, or “singing rock”, a large lava rock with a reddish hue that resembles an elfish church. Other rock formations of folklorish appeal rest close by, including the alleged trolls-turned-to-stone Kerling and Lóndrangar.
Warning
When visiting Djúpalónssandur, take heed that these are treacherous waters and the Atlantic Ocean’s powerful suction can easily carry you out to sea. This beach is not one for wading, but enjoying from a safe distance, especially if the weather is stormy.
The video below shows the power and shocking speed of sneaker waves that occur at locations such as Djúpalónssandur and Reynisfjara in the south.
The glistening pebbles that make up the beach known as Djúpalónsperlur, or “pearls of the deep lagoon”, are gorgeous to look at and might seem appealing to stone collectors, but they are protected by law and should not be removed from the area by visitors.
The Secret Lagoon is a man-made hot spring of natural resources located at Hverahólmi, the geothermal area next to the village of Flúðir in southern Iceland. It is the oldest pool in the country, and one of the most popular for locals and tourists alike.
Though not as busy as the Blue Lagoon, it still requires pre-booking in the summer.
Surroundings
The hot spring is situated within the range of popular tourist route the Golden Circle, close to the waterfall of Gullfoss, in the village of Flúðir.
This village is renowned for its greenhouse activity, which is used for horticulture and agriculture in the form of many greenhouses. This helps Iceland produce fresh food throughout the year.
Another major advantage of this geothermal activity is the natural and age-old thermal pools to be found in the area. Hrunalaug is one of those, a minuscule natural hot spring that has regrettably undergone a great deal of damage in the last years due to increased numbers of visitors.
The Secret Lagoon, however, has been modified to accommodate a much larger number of people. It makes use of its natural terrain and geothermal heating, leaving the water at a temperature of 38-40° Celsius (100° Fahrenheit) all year long.
The area all around the hot spring consists of mossy lava fields and geothermal hot-spots, including a small geyser that erupts every 5 minutes or so, which can be seen from the pool. A path by the pool allows you to explore this area with ease.
The steam that rises from the surrounding terrain into the air gives the place its distinct and magical atmosphere.
History
The pool was constructed in 1891 and is officially the oldest swimming pool in the entire country. Icelanders simply call it 'the old pool' or 'gamla laugin'.
In the year 1909, the first swimming lessons took place in the pool, which continued until relocated to the new pool in Flúðir in 1947. Before the 1900s, the Icelandic people rarely knew how to swim, in spite of being a nation of fishermen surrounded by an ocean.
Today, near every single Icelandic person is an able swimmer, since swimming lessons are conducted in pools and are mandatory for every Icelandic child.
After the opening of the new pool in Flúðir, the Secret Lagoon was all but forgotten, falling into disrepair. Once its ownership changed hands, however, it underwent a renaissance. It has since then been thoroughly renovated, although maintains both a natural charm and air of abandoned, fairytale-like mystery.
It now attracts hundreds of people every day.
The Secret Lagoon is often compared favourable to the Blue Lagoon, for being cheaper and less busy. While true, the Blue Lagoon has more facilities, such as saunas and steam rooms, and a wealth of unique properties, such as its azure waters and silica masks, that distinguish it.
It is also closer to Reykjavík, near to Keflavík International Airport. This means that it can be visited to refresh after a long flight, or in preparation for one.
Both, however, are in beautiful, serene locations and have their own distinct charm, so many visitors indulge in trips to both.
Between Patreksfjörður and Bíldudalur is the village of Tálknafjörður, in the southern region of the Westfjords. Despite its meagre population size, around 300 inhabitants, the village has chosen not to merge with its closest neighbours into a new municipality, therefore keeping its unique local charm and community character.
History
Historically, the village was settled much later than other villages across Iceland, with development not occurring until the early 20th century. In the 1940s, a harbour was built to both maximise the village’s sheltered coastal position and to begin fishing operations in the fjord. In the next decade, the fish processing plant, ÞórsBerg, was built, and thus the settlement's economy began to develop. However, as with many small fishing villages in Iceland, Tálknafjörður’s growth was halted by the introduction of fishing quotas in the 1990s. Since then, the economy has diversified with large swathes of tourists now visiting Tálknafjörður for the deep sea angling.
Culture
Today, Tálknafjörður has all the amenities of a modern-day village. There is a post office, convenience store, a bank, guesthouses, a restaurant, a mechanic and even a cosmetics store, Villimey Cosmetics, which produces herbal ointments and creams. There are also natural hot springs north of the village from which energy is cultivated for the village’s trout farms, house heating and Tálknafjörður swimming pool.
To Do
A short drive away from Tálknafjörður, there are cement-lined geothermal pools called Pollurinn (literally translating to “The Puddle”), a favourite spot amongst the local residents (some of whom go there to soak every day). The water at Pollurinn comes directly from the ground, unfiltered, meaning that the pools can have a somewhat slimy feel to them. A wooden cabin stands adjacent to the pool, offering changing room facilities.
Credit: Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo by Johannes Martin.
Seljavallalaug is an outdoor swimming pool in South Iceland, roughly ten kilometres (six miles) east of Ásólfsskáli.
History of Seljavallalaug
The pool was built in 1923, making it one of the oldest swimming pools in Iceland. The actual oldest is the Secret Lagoon in Flúðir, which dates all the way back to 1891.
Seljavallalaug is 10 metres (30 feet) in width and 25 metres (82 feet) in length. This made it the largest swimming pool in Iceland until 1936. The largest today is Laugardalslaug in Reykjavík.
Its establishment was designed to be a place for children to learn how to swim. In spite of being a nation of largely fishermen, swimming was not a widely practised skill back then. Nowadays, every child is taught it in school as a mandatory requirement.
Since it was built, Seljavallalaug has experienced few changes. Because of its South Coast location, however, it was affected by the 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull glacier. It was entirely filled with ash, making it unusable, until the following summer, when a team of volunteers cleared it out.
Swimming in Seljavallalaug
Credit: Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo by BiT
Unlike the vast majority of Iceland’s swimming pools, there is no admission fee to enter Seljavallalaug. So long as, when you arrive, there is space for you, you are welcome to hop in.
Please be aware that if you get there before anyone else, you have no claims to the pool, and are required to share.
It should be noted that swimmers enter at their own risk. There are no lifeguards on duty or other measures to ensure you are safe, so take care, particularly if swimming with children.
This is particularly the case considering the algae in the pool. This can cover the sides and bottom throughout summer, making it a little bit slippery.
If this algae is growing excessively, the pool will be dyed a beautiful shade of green.
It should also be noted that Seljavallalaug is only cleaned once a year. This means that those sensitive to bacteria may want to avoid the water, or find out when this is so they can plan a trip straight after.
While unlikely to cause serious harm to those with a decent immune system, the facts that this water is not often cleaned and the flow of water in and out of the pool is minimal, while many people get in and out every day, mean that Seljavallalaug is not the country’s most hygienic place to swim.
Getting to Seljavallalaug
To reach Seljavallalaug from Reykjavík, drive east along the Ring Road that encircles the country for just over an hour and a half, before turning onto Route 242 for the car park. The pool is situated a short hike north.
By driving this route, you will expose yourself to some of the wonderful destinations along the country’s South Coast. Perhaps most notable of these, and best for a stop, is the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, which you can fully encircle for some marvellous views.
You will also pass the great glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull. Both of these sit atop mighty, explosive volcanoes.
Just a few kilometres further along from Seljavallalaug is another waterfall, Skógafoss. Mightily powerful, this feature should not be missed by those in the area.
Hallormsstaðaskógur is Iceland's largest national forest, found in East Iceland near Egilsstaðir. The area is a famous for its pleasant hiking trails, wildlife and collection of tree species.
Development
For a largely treeless landscape, a forest in Iceland is something of an enigma. However, the reforestation service of Iceland cares for 53 patches of public access land, most of which are easily accessible for travellers on the Ring Road. Hallormsstaðaskógur is Iceland’s largest forest (though small by the standards of other nations) covering 740 square kilometres.
Initial experiments in planting trees began as early as 1903, though large scale cultivation truly began in 1950. In 1905, Hallormsstaðaskógur was labelled a protected forest. Ever since then, and spite of its diminutive expanse, the forest has been greatly venerated by the local population as an area of respite from the often barren, volcanic terrain of the island.
Common tree species include native dwarf birch and mountain birch, as well as over 80 different species of tree brought from 177 locations overseas. Birds such as redpolls, goldcrests and ravens all use the forest as a sanctuary from predators, with red wings, snipes and meadow pipits joining the fray in the summer months. The area also presents opportunities for botany, as well as berry and mushroom picking. Streams running through the forest are perfectly drinkable spring water.
To Do
In June, Hallormsstaðaskógur hosts Skógardagurinn, or “Forest Day”, a weekend of accordion music, active festivities and hot-blooded competition amongst the birch trees. Here, festival-goers can enjoy logging competitions, grilled lamb served by local farmers, art exhibitions and even mini-marathons (one 4km long, the other 14km.) The Skógardagurinn celebrations are a fantastic treat for all the family and provide great insight into the culture of Iceland’s less visited regions.
There are two camping areas in Hallormsstaðaskógur: Atlavík, located in the picturesque tree cover of the inner-forest, and Höfðavík, a site providing a more luxurious standard of service for visitors.
The South Coast of Iceland is the country's most visited sightseeing route, along with the Golden Circle.
This incredible shoreline stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east and is lined with countless natural wonders such as cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, black sand beaches and glaciers.
Geography, Nature & Wildlife
The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Route 1 highway (the Ring Road), which encircles Iceland. The area consists of a diverse lowland that transitions between, marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.
Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Its edges reach several hundred metres offshore where the ocean waves crash upon them, thereby protecting the lowland from the invasion of the sea. This results in the South Coast being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shoreline.
The region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey, including the North Atlantic puffin between May and August. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.
Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.
Highlights of the South Coast
The South Coast offers an unprecedented array of natural wonders that draw thousands of visitors each day.
When driving the route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days from these beautiful cascades, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean.
A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the outlet of Sólheimajökull.
The aforementioned Dyrhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Even if you come outside of puffin season, they are well worth a visit; jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.
Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, home to the rock pillars of Reynisdrangar, said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun. Though beautiful, this area is gaining notoriety for its dangerous sneaker waves, so visitors should be sure to stay well away from the edge of the water, even on a calm, still day.
There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.
After passing through Vík, you will cross the glacial sand plain of Skeiðarársandur, before entering Vatnajökull National Park, home to the largest ice cap in Europe, Vatnajökull itself, dozens of glacial outlets and the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.
While almost all of these sites can be seen from Route 1, they make up a fraction of what the South Coast has to offer. The vast sand plains of Sólheimasandur are home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck, and within the Vatnajökull National Park is the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve.
Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall, and short distances from Jökulsárlón you will find the Diamond Beach, where icebergs wash on the black-sand shore, and another glacier lagoon, Fjallsárlón.
Djúpavík is a village in the Westfjords of Iceland, located in Árneshreppur which is the least populous municipality in the country.
Djúpavík is located in the North-West part of Iceland and the eastern part of the Westfjords. The village is as rural as they come, as it currently consists of a single hotel, one abandoned herring factory and just about seven houses.
History
In 1917, a man called Elías Stefánsson constructed a salting factory for herring at the location, thus beginning settlement of the bay. However, the country was facing an economic depression, so the factory went bankrupt only two years later, or in 1919. New owners tried to salvage it, only to abandon it again in the 1920s.
In 1934, a new factory got built at the site―the largest building made of concrete in Iceland at the time―which turned out very successfully and herring fishing was bountiful over the next decade. Numbers of herring started to decline rapidly in the 1940s, and by 1954 the factory shut down again.
The 1980s saw the opening of Hótel Djúpavík, as conservation of the legendary herring factory and other village buildings began. The hotel is open all through the year, but the houses are only inhabited during the summer season.
Sites and Nature
Djúpavík is lovely to visit in the summer. Several hiking trails are available in the area, where complete solitude is all but guaranteed. The waterfall Djúpavíkurfoss cascades down the mountain cliffs that tower over the village and hiking up the mountain provides stunning views of the old factory and the entire fjord.
The herring factory offers guided tours as part of the greater Djúpavík exhibition. The easiest way to reach Djúpavík from Reykjavík is to take a domestic flight to the airport at Gjögur by the coast of Húnaflói bay.
Iceland has one main road: Route 1, or the Icelandic Ring Road. This ring road goes all around the island and is 1,332 kilometres long (828 miles), allowing visitors to see all regions bar the Westfjords and Snæfellsnes Peninsula.
Perhaps most importantly, the road connects the capital, Reykjavík, to the second biggest city in Iceland, Akureyri, in the north of the country.
Other notable towns that are connected via the ring road are Borgarnes, Blönduós, Egilsstaðir, Höfn, Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Vík, Hella, Hvolsvöllur, Selfoss and Hveragerði.
Features on the Ring Road
A number of popular tourist attractions are also found by the ring road. In the south, drivers will pass the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss; the glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull; the black-sand-beach of Reynisfjara, and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.
In the east, there is the largest forest in Iceland, Hallormsstaðaskógur, and the lake Lagarfljót, said to contain a monster, records for which date back centuries before the Loch Ness Monster.
In the north, the most notable features are Lake Mývatn and Goðafoss waterfall. In the west are many historical settlements and beautiful fjords.
History of the Ring Road
The road was completed in 1974, with the opening of Iceland's longest bridge, which crosses Skeiðará river in southeast Iceland. In 1998 a tunnel below the fjord Hvalfjörður shortened the drive around Iceland by about one hour and it offers a straight and easy alternative to a winding fjord.
The Hvalfjörður tunnel is the largest tunnel in Iceland, 5.8 kilometres (3.6 miles) long and an impressive 165 metres (541 feet) below sea level. The ring road has another tunnel called Almannaskarð in the southeast by Höfn, and the Vaðlaheiðar tunnel in north Iceland is due to open in the North Iceland which is set to shorten the drive from Akureyri to Húsavík by 16km.
In wintertime, most of the ring road is kept open, with the exception of a short passage in the eastern part of the country that may be closed due to heavy snow (a detour is needed to travel from the north to the east during wintertime).
Good to Know
The ring road consists mainly of paved two lanes road (one each direction). Some sections of the ring road are original 1940s country roads demanding caution when driving with features such as many sharp curves, blind curves, blind summits as well as single lane bridges.
The speed limit is 90km per hour on the paved section of the road (lower when it passes through towns), and 80km per hour on gravel.
The ring-road can be driven in a two-wheel-drive throughout the year, but it is highly recommended you rent a four-wheel-drive if travelling between October and May.
Guide to Iceland would advise people to drive cautiously on the ring road both in summer and wintertime, but also to explore other roads leading from it to multiple attractions. Be sure that if you want to stop to take a picture, make sure you have turned off into a safe parking area. Stopping on the Ring Road itself can be very dangerous for you and other travellers using it.
Photo from Admission to Krauma Geothermal Baths
The Krauma Spa is a geothermal bath and spa resort in West Iceland. It is located near Europe's highest flowing hot spring, Deildartunguhver.
Krauma Spa was opened to the public in late 2017 and offers five hot tubs, one cold one and two steam baths, as well as a relaxation room where you can unwind to soothing music next to a crackling fireplace.
On-Site Facilities
To create the perfect bathing temperature, the Spa pumps hot water straight from Deildartunguhver hot spring and cools it down by mixing freezing water from Iceland's smallest glacier Ok. The steam in the steam baths also comes directly from the hot spring and is scented with oils.
A restaurant and a bar are located on-site and provide views of the Deildartunguhver hot spring and the nearby valley. The restaurant serves Icelandic cuisine made from fresh farm-produced ingredients, and the bar offers a wide selection of drinks and snacks.
Krauma Spa and Resort is open all year round and accommodates up to 140 guests at a time. The restaurant seats 70 guests inside and another 60 on the outside terrace when the weather allows.
Nearby Attractions
Krauma Spa is located near some of West Iceland's most popular attractions. Aside from the powerful Deildartunguhver hot spring, visitors in the area can take a short drive to the waterfalls Hraunfossar and Barnafoss.
Iceland's largest lava cave, Víðgelmir in the Hallmundarhraun lava field is only a short drive away from Krauma Spa, and so is the country's second largest glacier, Langjökull.
Close by is the historical Reykholt area and the town of Borgarnes. Reykholt houses Snorrastofa, a centre for medieval studies, named after historian, poet and law-maker Snorri Sturluson, and in Borgarnes, you'll find the Settlement Centre which focuses on the age of settlement in Iceland and Egill Skallagrímsson, a Viking-Era poet and warrior of the Egils Saga fame.
