6 Day Summer Self-Drive | Hidden Gems under the Midnight Sun

• Available: Apr. - Sep.
• Duration: 6 days
• Activities: Glacier Hiking, Snorkelling, Caving, Snowmobile, Super Jeep, Ice Climbing, Horse Riding, Sightseeing, Climbing, Hot Spring Bathing, Cultural Activity, Bird watching, Ice Caving, Self drive
• Difficulty: Easy
• Highlights:

  

  The Blue Lagoon is a geothermal spa found on the Reykjanes Peninsula in southwest Iceland. It is the most popular attraction in Iceland drawing people from all across the world.

  The Lagoon is just a fifteen-minute drive from Keflavík International Airport, or a thirty-minute drive from Reykjavík, located between the two. It is thus often visited straight after arrival to the country or right before departure.

  There are few better ways to recharge after a long-flight or action-packed holiday.

  History

  

  The Blue Lagoon started as a pool of wastewater from the Svartsengi geothermal plant in 1976. The first person to bathe there was Valur Margeirsson in 1981. He was met with some resistance prior to taking the first dip as people thought he was mad for wanting to bath in a "blue mud pool". He and others soon began to notice the unusual but remarkable healing qualities of the azure waters.

  Those with conditions such as psoriasis found the waters immediately soothing for their condition. News quickly spread, and by 1987, the first swimming facilities were officially opened.

  Since then, the establishment has only grown, from an open pool with no surrounding buildings to a luxurious spa, research centre and hotel.

  Today

  The Blue Lagoon is considered to have such notable regenerative qualities because the water is rich in silica and sulphur. A research and development facility on site finds cures and remedies for skin ailments, and silica mud is available for free on the sides of the pool for guests to enjoy a facemask.

  The temperature in the bathing and swimming area is very comfortable, averaging 37–39° C (98–102° F). The Blue Lagoon also boasts the LAVA Restaurant, the Blue Café and the Lagoon Spa: you can thus enjoy cocktails, health products, delicious meals and treatments such as massages without leaving the premises. Saunas, steam rooms and a small waterfall are also on site.

  

  For all of these reasons and more, the Blue Lagoon is considered to be one of the most enjoyable and romantic spots in the country. It is surrounded by a plethora of fantastic volcanic landscapes, and the water itself is opaque and vividly blue. Rising pillars of steam only add to the spa’s fantastic ambience.

  Things to Note

  The Blue Lagoon Spa is open throughout the year, and popular in every season. Due to the fact it has a maximum capacity for the comfort of its guests, it is essential that you book several months in advance to ensure your space. The vast majority of the time, you will be turned away at the door without a reservation.

  More reserved guests might want to be aware that it is a requirement to shower naked in public before entering the lagoon, to ensure that the highest hygiene standards are maintained. Though uncomfortable for some, nudity has little taboo in Icelandic culture, so worry not; no-one’s looking.

  Those who are travelling on a budget will note that the Blue Lagoon is quite pricey. There are other smaller spas and pools that can be entered for less, such as the Fontana Spa, Secret Lagoon, Mývatn Nature Baths and Krauma Spa. Of course, natural hot pools are free to enter.

  For more information, you can read articles on the best pools in the country and the best natural hot springs.
  Blue Lagoon,

  

  The Golden Circle is a 300 kilometre (186 mile) route to the three most popular natural attractions in Iceland: the Geysir Geothermal Area, Gullfoss Waterfall and Þingvellir National Park.

  This sightseeing trail is easy to do within half a day from Reykjavík, either by self-drive or on one of many tours. Some of these tours have additional activities, such as snorkelling or snowmobiling, or are conducted in a unique style, such as by helicopter, or under the midnight sun.

  Within the three locations of the Golden Circle are some of the clearest examples of Iceland’s fascinating geological forces, magnificent landscapes, and rich culture.

  The Geysir Geothermal Area

  

  The Geysir Geothermal Area is a hot-spring haven in Haukadalur Valley. As could be guessed, it is home to a famous geyser, the name of which has named all others: Geysir itself.

  Though this feature is currently in a phase of inactivity, its neighbour Strokkur more than makes up for it. Every five to ten minutes, it blasts a column of boiling water to heights that can reach over 40 metres (131 feet).

  The surrounding area is dotted with fumaroles, hot springs, and mud-pits. There are also two other smaller geysers, Smiður and Litlí-Strokkur, that can be easily visited, as well as a hotel, restaurant, cafe and gift shop across the road.

  Gullfoss Waterfall

  The 'Golden Waterfall', Gullfoss one of the most beautiful and powerful waterfalls in Iceland, plummeting 32 metres (105 feet) in two tiers into the river gorge of the popular rafting river Hvítá. It is just a ten-minute drive from Geysir and is the furthest point on the Golden Circle from Reykjavík.

  Gullfoss was very almost lost in the early 20th century when British developers sought to harness its incredible power for geothermal energy. Though they got the lease to the land, allowing them to go ahead with their plans, they met an unlikely adversary: the daughter of the farmer who owned it, Sigríður Tómasdóttir.

  This resilient woman refused to see the waterfall, to which she and her sisters paved the first path, destroyed. She, therefore, walked over 200 kilometres (124 miles) to Reykjavík and back multiple times to meet with a lawyer in order to help change the decision.

  Though the process was arduous and took years, eventually Sigríður managed to exhaust the resources of the businessmen and they withdrew their plans. Because of her, all Icelandic waterfalls are now protected from foreign investors, and she is considered one of Iceland’s first environmentalists and most important historical people.

  Thingvellir National Park

  

  The largest attraction of the Golden Circle is Þingvellir National Park. The Icelandic parliament was founded here in 930 and remained until the year 1798 before moving to Reykjavík, making it the original site of what is now the world’s longest ongoing parliament.

  Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important places to visit in Iceland. This is not just for its historical and cultural values, but for also its magnificent landscape and dramatic geology.

  Þingvellir is surrounded by a beautiful mountain and volcanic ranges, as it is located in a rift valley directly between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. This makes it one of the few places in the world where you can walk between the continents, in the Mid-Atlantic Rift.

  The daring and qualified even have opportunities to snorkel or scuba dive in this no-mans-land, in a ravine filled with crystal-clear spring water called Silfra. The visibility here can exceed 100 metres (328 feet), revealing incredible geological sites. Though it never freezes over due to the constant flow of water into it, it is 2°C (35°C) throughout the year, thus underwater explorers are always equipped with protective suits.

  Other sites of note are the magnificent Almannagjá gorge, which you can walk down into to reach the rift valley from the North American tectonic plate, and the beautiful lake Þingvallavatn, the largest lake in Iceland, which gleams to the south of the National Park.

  Surrounding sites

  Due to its convenient location in south-west Iceland, it is easy to visit the Golden Circle alongside with many other sites. Those seeking relaxation could head to the Secret Lagoon in Flúðir or Fontana Spa in Laugarvatn, those seeking adventure could book a trip to the ice tunnels of Langjökull glacier, and those seeking culture could visit the Sólheimar ecovillage. For more natural beauty, you can visit the nearby Kerið crater lake.

  There are many tours that include such bonuses, but if driving yourself, you should check out this guide to great detours off the Golden Circle.

  Golden Circle,

  

  The Icelandic Highlands cover the majority of the country and many of Iceland’s impressive natural attractions can be found here. Away from crowds, noise and bustle, the Highlands offer silence, serenity, peace and extreme natural beauty.

  A favourite amongst hikers and photographers, the Highlands are accessible from June to September.

  The Central Highlands

  The Central Highlands cover a vast area, at an altitude of over 500 metres (1640 feet), with numerous mountains reaching heights between 1,000 and 2,000 metres (3,281 and 6562 feet). Most of these higher mountains are covered by glaciers.

  The tallest mountain in the country is located in the Highlands, beneath Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull. Hvannadalshnúkur stands at an incredible 2,109 metres (6,919 feet) tall and can be reached on some helicopter tours. Another notable peak is Bárðarbunga, a sub-glacial volcano in northwest Vatnajökull that stands at 2,000 metres.

  Vatnajökull is the greatest of the three largest glaciers in the country, all of which are in the Central Highlands; the others are Hofsjökull in the centre of Iceland and Langjökull, west of Hofsjökull.

  Various highlands paths lie between the glaciers. These usually open in June, but late snows have been known to push the opening to July. One of the major routes is Kjölur, which connects the south and north of Iceland. It is located between Hofsjökull and Langjökull and passes through a region of rhyolite mountains and geothermal oases.

  Sprengisandur, is another noteworthy path connecting the south and north, and it is located between Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull.

  Kaldidalur is also a significant highland road stretching west of Langjökull, from Þingvellir towards the Borgarfjörður district.

  Always remember that the natural environment that makes up Iceland's Highlands is as delicate as it is enchanting. The slightest damage inflicted upon small areas can cause erosion and irreversible landscape wounds that can easily spread over large areas. Consequently, when travelling in the Highlands visitors must at all times uphold responsible travel etiquette.

  Driving off-road and designated paths is strictly forbidden and punishable by heavy fines. The moss is delicate and should not be walked or camped on, let alone removed, and fishing is heavily regulated.

  The South Highlands

  

  Almost all the mountains south of the glaciers are tuff mountains, formed during the Ice Age. Volcanic activity is confined to tuff areas of the country and the southern Highlands are home to some of Iceland's most active volcanoes: Hekla, Eyjafjallajökull and Katla, which sits under Mýrdalsjökull, Iceland’s fourth largest glacier

  Eyjafjallajökull is the most famous of these volcanoes. When it erupted in 2010, it caused major disruption to air travel across Europe, and widespread confusion to newsreaders everywhere as they tried to pronounce it; it was thus nicknamed to E11.

  The South Highlands is also home to Landmannalaugar, one of the country's best hiking and hot spring bathing sites.

  Northeast, Central-North and Northwest Highlands

  In the northeast of the Highlands are the Lakagígar Craters the famous subglacial lake and volcano, Grímsvötn, and the glacier Öræfajökull. North of Vatnajökull, the best-known volcanoes are Askja and Krafla.

  Also in this area is the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon, which holds the most powerful waterfall in Europe, Dettifoss.

  The northwest and central-north Highlands consist of ancient basalt formations, similar to the mountains that comprise the Eastfjords.

  Highland Oases

  There are a few oases in the highlands that have unique vegetation and wildlife. The most important of these are Þjórsárver, Nýidalur/Jökuldalur, Herðubreiðarlindir and Eyjabakkar. The pink-footed goose has its main nesting places at Þjórsárver and Eyjabakkar. Þjórsárver was designated as a Ramsar site in 1990.

  Wild reindeer reside in the east Highlands; this is the only place they can be seen. Initially brought over for farming, the industry never took out and they have roamed free in their herds since.

   

  Highlands,

  

  Reykjavík is the capital of Iceland and the northernmost capital of any sovereign state in the world.

  Despite a small population (approximately 120,000, with just over 200,000 in the Greater Reykjavík area), it is a vibrant city that draws an ever increasing number of visitors every year. It is the financial, cultural and political centre of Iceland, and has a reputation of being one of the cleanest and safest cities in the world.

  Geography

  The city of Reykjavík is located in southwest Iceland by Faxaflói Bay. Throughout the ages, the landscape has been shaped by glaciers, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and the area is geothermal; after all, its name translates to ‘Smoky Bay’.

  Much of the current city area was subglacial during the Ice Age, with the glacier reaching as far as the Álftanes peninsula, while other areas lay under the sea.  After the end of the Ice Age, the land rose as the glaciers drifted away, and it began to take on its present form.

  The coastline of Reykjavík is set with peninsulas, coves, straits and islands, most notably the island of Viðey, and seabirds and whales frequent the shores. The mountain ring as seen from the shore is particularly beautiful.

  Mount Esjan is the highest mountain in the vicinity of Reykjavík and the most distinctive feature of the coastline. This majestic summit is also highly popular amongst hikers and climbers. Other notable mountains that can be seen from the seaside are Akrafjall and Skarðsheiði.

  On clear days, one may even see as far to the legendary Snæfellsjökull glacier, at the end of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

  The largest river to run through the city is Elliðaá in Elliðaárdalur valley, which is also one of Iceland’s best rivers for salmon fishing.

  Transportation

  There are no trains or trams in Iceland, but most people travel by car. The city also operates a bus system. There are two major harbours in town, the old harbour in the centre and Sundahöfn in the east.

  The domestic Reykjavík Airport is located at Vatnsmýrin, not far from the city centre and close to the hill Öskjuhlíð and the restaurant, vantage point and exhibition centre Perlan. The international Keflavík Airport at Miðnesheiði heath then lies around 50 kilometres (31 miles) from the city.

  Cars, jeeps and bicycles can be readily rented in the city and many organized tours are also being offered. It is, however, quite easy to walk between the major sites.

  What to See & Do in Reykjavik

  The local arts scene is strong in Iceland, with annual events and festivals, many of artists from which have hit the international stage.

  Major events taking place in Reykjavík include Iceland Airwaves, Reykjavík Pride, RIFF (The Reykjavík International Film Festival), The Reykjavík Literature Festival, Culture Night, the Reykjavík Arts Festival, Food & Fun, the Reykjavík Fashion Festival and the Sónar music festival.

  Amongst the famous people from Reykjavík are musicians like Björk Guðmundsdóttir and Sigur Rós, and writers Halldór Laxness (born on the main street, Laugavegur) and Arnaldur Indriðason.

  Those eager to soak up the local culture should visit the city’s many museums, exhibitions and galleries, and check out live music at the cafés, bars, and concert venues dotted around. You could look at the programmes of what’s on at the Harpa music hall or the theatres, or else plan a few hours at the lighthouse at Grótta, the shopping street of Laugavegur, or the old harbour and the flea market.

  You could even book a bird- and whale watching tour or a visit to Viðey island. There are a lot of things to do and the possibilities are endless.

  

  Make sure to visit the public square of Austurvöllur, one of the city’s most popular gathering places, where you’ll also find the national parliament, the Alþingi, as well as the state church, a statue of independence hero Jón Sigurðsson, cafés, bars and restaurants.

  Austurvöllur was central in the protests following the banking collapse of 2008, along with Lækjargata, home to the House of Government. You are also not likely to miss the great church of Hallgrímskirkja that towers over the city from the hill of Skólavörðuholt, from which you’ll get a great view of the city.

  Try a walk by the city pond, Tjörnin, to greet the many birds that frequent the area and to visit the city hall, stationed by its banks. A beautiful park lies by the pond, ideal for a nice walk, and sometimes concerts get held there.

  Further off is the campus of the University of Iceland, the Nordic house and the Vatnsmýrin wetland, a particularly pleasant place, but be mindful to not disturb the wildlife there by keeping to the pathways.

  For a nice swim on a warm day, we particularly recommend Nauthólsvík beach, which is heated with geothermal water. Those who love a dip should also visit the Laugardalur valley, home to one of the city’s best swimming pools, which sits a short walk away from Ásmundarsafn gallery, a beautiful botanical garden and a domestic zoo.

  A walk by the Ægissíða beach, with its old fishing sheds, in the west part of Reykjavík also holds a particular charm. From there, you can see all the way to president’s house at Bessastaðir, which is also a historical site in its own right, having been the educational centre of Iceland for centuries. 

  Another place that offers one of the city’s best views is Perlan, up on Öskjuhlíð hill. The hill itself is a popular place to spend a few hours, with over 176,000 trees and great opportunities for walking and cycling. Perlan also has and observation deck with great views, a café and an exhibition centre.

  Furthermore, the city is a short drive from many of Iceland’s major attractions, most famously the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. In close vicinity you’ll also find the Heiðmörk preservation area, a favourite local site of the people of Reykjavík, as well as the Blue Mountains, one of Iceland’s best skiing venues.

  Finally, we’d like to stress that these are only some suggestions of the many things you might check out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose to do, we hope you’ll be able to make the most of your visit and we wish you a pleasant stay in our capital.

  Reykjavík,

  

  Jökulsárlón is Iceland’s most famous glacier lagoon. Conveniently located in the southeast by Route 1, about halfway between the Skaftafell Nature Reserve and Höfn, it is a popular stop for those travelling along the South Coast or around the Ring Road of the country.

  Geography

  As a glacier lagoon, Jökulsárlón is a lake that is filled with the meltwater from an outlet glacier. In this case, it is Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Europe’s largest ice cap, Vatnajökull.

  It stands out, however, due to the fact that it also fills with icebergs breaking from the glacier, some of which tower several stories high.

  These icebergs, other than their scale, are notable for their colouration. Although they are, as expected, largely white, most are also dyed electric blue in part, with black streaks of ash from eruptions centuries past.

  

  When the icebergs finally make it across the lagoon, they either drift out to sea or wash up on the nearby shore. Because of the way they glisten against the black sands of Breiðamerkursandur, this area has been nicknamed ‘the Diamond Beach’.

  In spite of being a rather recent formation, Jökulsárlón is the deepest lake in the country, with depths of 248 metres (814 feet). With a surface area of 18 square kilometres (7 square miles), it is also growing to be one of the largest.

  History

  Jökulsárlón has not been around since Iceland’s settlement; it only formed around 1935. This was due to rapidly rising temperatures in the country from the turn of the twentieth century; since 1920, Breiðamerkurjökull has been shrinking at a dramatic rate, and the lagoon has begun to fill its space.

  Today, the expansion of Jökulsárlón is accelerating. In 1975, it had less than half its current surface area.

  In the relatively near future, it is expected that the lagoon will continue to grow until it becomes a large, deep fjord.

  Though a dark omen for Iceland’s glaciers and ice caps in general, the retreat of Breiðamerkurjökull has resulted in an incredibly beautiful, if temporary, site. This has not been overlooked by Hollywood.

  

  Jökulsárlón has been featured in the James Bond films A View to Kill in 1985 and Die Another Day in 2002, 2001’s Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and 2005’s Batman Begins.

  In 2017, Jökulsárlón was enveloped into the Vatnajökull National Park, thus it is now fully protected by Icelandic law.

  Wildlife

  Because of the wealth of herring and capelin that the tides bring into the lagoon, Jökulsárlón is somewhat of a hot-spot for Iceland’s wildlife.

  In summer, it is a nesting site for Arctic Terns; stay well away from their nesting area, as these birds are notorious for the fierceness with which they protect their eggs, dive-bombing the heads of any they see as a threat. Skuas also nest on the lake’s shores in this season.

  Seals can be reliably spotted here throughout the year, swimming amongst or else hauling out on the icebergs. Jökulsárlón provides them with a safe haven to rest and socialise, especially considering the waters of southeast Iceland are renowned for their population of orcas.

   

   

  Jökulsárlón,

  

  Hvíta is a glacier river in Arnessysla in South Iceland. It is one of the most popular rivers in Iceland for rafting, salmon fishing, and it is home to Iceland's most famous waterfall.

  Gullfoss Waterfall

  The river has its source in Hvítarvatn, by the roots of Langjökull. Many tributaries join it as it travels towards the ocean, making Gullfoss waterfall, which lays on its course, mightily powerful.

  At 32 metres (105 feet) tall, it falls in two steps into a magnificent canyon. There are several viewing platforms around it, and a café and visitors centre a short distance away.

  It can be seen in all seasons, with rainbows flying from its mists in summer and ice cladding the rocks around it in winter.

  Rafting in Hvíta

  Downstream from Gullfoss is the part of Hvíta that is most popular for kayaking, canoeing and rafting. These tours are open to all skill sets, even beginners.

  These tours are not only exhilarating but expose guests to beautiful nature and geology.

  Hvítá River,

  

  Vatnajökull glacier is the largest glacier in Europe, covering 8% of Iceland’s landmass.

  It is the central feature of the Vatnajökull National park, found in the south west of Iceland, a popular spot for activities like glacier hiking from Skaftafell, boat tours in the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, and ice caving tours between November and March.

  Facts about Vatnajokull

  Vatnajökull has a surface area of approximately 8,100 square kilometres (3127 square miles); though it is rapidly shrinking due to climate change, its recession is not quite as advanced as at other glaciers, such as Langjökull and Mýrdalsjökull. In parts, it is a kilometre deep (over three thousand feet), and its average thickness is around half of that.

  Vatnajökull also holds the tallest peak in Iceland beneath its ice; Hvannadalshnjúkur is 2,200 metres tall (7,218 feet). It also conceals some of the most active volcanoes in the country, the most notable being Grímsvötn, Öræfajökull and Bárðarbunga.

  Volcanic activity in the region has occurred on and off throughout the centuries, and many geologists believe that several eruptions are overdue. If their calculations are correct, it would mean significant volcanic activity for Vatnajökull over the scope of the next half-century.

  Depending on winds, this could result in worldwide consequences in terms of air-travel, agriculture and the general climate.

  The glacier boasts over 30 outlet glaciers, which are channels of ice that flow out of ice caps but remain constrained on the sides of the valley. The major outlet glaciers of Vatnajökull include Dyngjujökull in the north, Breiðamerkurjökull, and Skeiðarárjökull to the south. To the west, one can find the outlet glaciers Síðujökull, Skaftárjökull and Tungnaárjökull.

  Numerous rivers run out of Vatnajökull, making up some of the greatest glacial rivers in Iceland. The most notable are:

  • Tungnaá (west)

  • Köldukvísl (west)

  • Þjórsá (west)

  • Jökulsá á Fjöllum (north)

  • Skjálfandafljót (north)

  • Jökulsá á Brú (northeast)

  • Jökulsá í Fljótsdal (northeast)

  • Jökulsá í Lóni (south)

  • Hornafjarðarfljót (south)

  • Jökulsá á Breiðamerkursandi (south)

  • Skeiðará (south)

  • Núpsvötn (south)

  • Hverfisfljót (south)

  • Skaftá (south)

  Vatnajokull National Park

  

  Vatnajökull National Park was established in June 2008 and has slowly grown to include more and more areas. The park now covers an area of 14,141 square kilometres (5,460 square miles), 14% of the country. It is the second largest national park in Europe.

  Rivers divide the highland plateau to the north of the park. The volcanic table mountain Herðubreið towers over this particular region, along with volcanoes Askja, Snæfell and Kverkfjöll.

  The canyon Jökulsárgljúfur was carved out by glacial floods centuries ago. At the upper end of the canyon, you'll find Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe. Further north, the horseshoe-shaped canyon Ásbyrgi is believed to have formed when Óðinn's eight-legged horse, Sleipnir, stepped his foot down from the heavens.

  East around Snæfell, one can find wetlands and ranges, home to roaming herds of wild reindeer and abundant birdlife. Steep mountain ridges make up the south side of Vatnajökull, where outlet glaciers crawl onto the lowlands. The sandy plains of Skeiðarársandur also lie to the south, and the glacial river Skeiðará runs through this vast desert.

  One of Iceland's most visited landmarks in the National Park is the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, which sits at the base of the outlet glacier Breiðamerkurjökull. Here, large icebergs that have broken off the glacier float across a vast lake before ending up in the Atlantic Ocean, or washed ashore on the nearby Diamond Beach.

  This is one of the best seal-watching spots in the country.

  The Future of Vatnajokull

  

  The volume of Vatnajökull reached its peak around 1930 but has since been in a steady process of decline. Because of rising levels of global temperature, Vatnajökull has on average lost about a metre (three feet) of its thickness annually over the past 15 years.

  If temperature levels continue to rise, the glacier could be all but gone nearing the end of the next century, leaving only small ice caps on top of the highest mountain summits.  

  Efforts are being made to prevent what some say is the inevitable, with reforestation projects going on all around the glacier, a proven method of cooling the area. Time will tell how successful they are.

  Vatnajokull and Jokulsarlon in Popular Culture

  The beauty of Vatnajökull National Park has not gone unnoticed by those in film or television. Many famous scenes have been shot here, starting with James Bond: A View to Kill in 1985. Other notable films with scenes here include Batman Begins, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and James Bond: Die Another Day.

  Most famously, however, many places in Vatnajökull have been used in the HBO Series Game of Thrones, north of the Wall. The Wall itself is constructed with CGI using shots of the glacier.
  Vatnajökull,

  

  Landmannalaugar, or the 'People's Pools', is a vast area of stunning and unique beauty in the heart of Iceland's southern Highlands. Throughout the summer, it is one of the most popular places for hiking -- either over one day or several -- and natural hot spring bathing.

  Geology

  Landmannalaugar is a truly rare area, both geologically and aesthetically. The dramatic region can be found nestled beside the raven-black Laugahraun lava field, a sweeping expanse of dried magma which originally formed in an eruption in 1477.

  Landmannalaugar itself is made up of windswept rhyolite mountains, a rock type that creates a full spectrum of dazzling colour. Shades of red, pink, green, blue and golden yellow make for an ethereal location.

  Landmannalaugar was historically best known for its natural geothermal baths, hence its name the People's Pools. For centuries, it served as an area of shelter and respite for weary travellers who use these soothing springs as a means to relax after tiring excursions.

  Originally, those attending were settlers crossing the barren highlands, but today, they are tourists after an exciting trip.

  Today, visitors to the Highlands should always bring a swimsuit and towel, just in case one of these naturally occurring hot pools should crop up along the hiking trail.

  The most popular road leading to Landmannalaugar, Sigölduleið, has such springs, and takes you past multiple stunning natural features, including Bláhylur lake, a magnificent body of water nestled in a dormant volcanic crater.

  

  Landmannalaugar can be reached by car in one of two ways. The quickest is driving through West Iceland, either via Selfoss or Þingvellir National Park. A longer but more scenic route would take you along the South Coast of Iceland. This is Iceland’s most popular sightseeing route, aside from the Golden Circle, due to its wealth of sites.

  Of course, like many of Iceland’s destinations, Landmannalaugar can also be reached via helicopter, for those who are travelling with less of a concern for budget. Those on more of a shoestring can buy a bus pass that will take them to the region.

  Hiking

  Landmannalaugar marks the northern end of the Laugavegur, one of Iceland's most popular hiking trails. This route connects Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk, the ‘Valley of Thor’, ending at the beautiful Skógafoss waterfall.

  It is also home to many other notable trails, however, including the path onto the mighty Mt. Brennisteinsalda, the ‘Sulphur Wave’ crater. Visitors can also traverse the trail up the Bláhnjúkur volcano, the 'Blue Peak', whose summit allows for a sweeping view of up to five glaciers on clear days.

  Multiple operators run daily tours to Landmannalaugar from mid-June to mid-September, during which time the Icelandic Touring Association operates a small shop, three campsites and a mountain hut equipped with sleeping bags and accommodation for up to 80 visitors.

  It is only recommended you take a multi-day hike with an operator. If visiting Landmannalaugar without a guide, you will need a four-wheel-drive.

   

  Landmannalaugar,

  

  Snæfellsjökull is a glacier-capped volcano found on the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in west Iceland. It stands in a National Park of the same name, one of the only three National Parks in the country.

  It stands at 1,446 metres (4,744 feet) tall, and on clear days, is visible across the bay from Reykjavík. The stratovolcano beneath Snæfellsjökull is 700,000-year-old.

  The mountain is actually called 'Snæfell' (Snowy Mountain), though the 'jökull' (Glacier) is often added to help distinguish it from other mountains of the same name.

  For the first time in recorded history, Snæfellsjökull had no snow or ice at its peak in August 2012, causing concern amongst locals that climate change is threatening the nature of the mountain.

  History

  Snæfellsjökull has several small villages surrounding it, including Hellissandur, Rif and Ólafsvík, all of which were some of the busiest commercial and fishing hubs in the country for much of the last millennium.

  Fishing took off primarily in the 13th-Century, with fishing stations being built in all areas with easy access to the open ocean. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula was a notable centre of this industry, due to the fertile waters within Breiðafjörður bay.

  One notable example would be the settlement of Dritvík; in spite of its minuscule size today, it once utilised around forty to sixty boats and employed up to six hundred people.

  Fishing in the region declined during the 19th century due to change in Iceland’s industry and fish stocks, though it is still an important source of livelihood for those living on the Peninsula.

  The Snæfellsjökull National Park was established in 2001, and tourism is rapidly changing the trade of the area.

  In Folklore

  Snæfellsjökull has, for centuries, been considered to be one of the world’s ancient power sites, a source of mysticism, energy and mystery for the peninsula’s superstitious population.

  The feature takes a prominent role in Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, a late 14th-century saga that tells the story of  Bárður, half-human-half-troll, who became the 'guardian spirit of Snæfellsjökull'.

  There are many rock formations on and around Snæfellsjökull that are said to be trolls petrified by sunlight, or else homes of the hidden people.

  On November 5th, 1993, thousands of people came to Snæfellsjökull as some paranormal enthusiasts believed there would be an alien landing; CNN even showed up with a camera crew. Though the evening passed without a galactic invasion, the incident shows the strange significance of Snæfellsjökull to many.

  In Literature

  Snæfellsjökull serves as the entrance to a fantastical subterranean world in Jules Verne’s classic 1864 novel 'Journey to The Centre of The Earth.' Given its central place in the novel, Snæfellsjökull has become one of the most popular spots for visitors in Iceland and has inspired a wealth of writers, poets and artists.

  Since 'Journey to The Centre of The Earth', Snæfellsjökull has appeared in the ‘Blind Birds’ trilogy by Czech science fiction writer Ludvík Souček (partially based on Jules’ work) and in ‘Under The Glacier’, a novel by Iceland’s only Nobel laureate, Halldór Laxness.

  Nearby Attractions

  

  Along with the glacier, attractions on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula include the two nearby basalt cliffs called Lóndrangar and the many fascinating lava formations at the beautiful Djúpalónssandur beach, such as the arch rock Gatklettur.

  At Djúpalónssandur, one can also test their muscle as historic sailors once did with the four 'strength' stones, Amlóði ('Useless'), Hálfdrættingur ('Weakling'), Hálfsterkur ('Half Strength') and Fullsterkur ('Full Strength').  

  In the area, one can also explore the Saxhóll volcano crater and 'the singing cave' Sönghellir, which is named after the loud echoes inside.

   

  Snæfellsjökull,

  

  Skógafoss is one of Iceland’s biggest and most beautiful waterfalls with an astounding width of 25 meters (82 feet) and a drop of 60 meters (197 feet).

  Due to the amount of spray the cascade produces, at least one rainbow is present any time the sun emerges from behind the clouds.

  Located on the Skógá river, this mighty cascade is clearly visible from Route 1 and is an excellent place to stop and stretch the legs while travelling Iceland’s South Coast. The river below Skógafoss holds a large char and salmon population and is thus a favourite spot for fishermen in the summer.

  The land underneath the waterfall is very flat, allowing visitors to walk right up to the wall of water. This will get you drenched, although, on a summer’s day, it can be quite tempting.

  Skógafoss can also be viewed from the top as a steep staircase leads to an observational platform above the cascade. Many nesting seabirds can be found on the route up.

  Geography

  Skógafoss is located near the small village of Skógar, south of the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano. There you’ll find the Skógasafn folk museum, an open-air museum with both old wooden houses and turf houses, as well as a regional museum with various artefacts from this area.

  A part of the Skógasafn Regional Museum is the Museum of Transportation, which showcases the history and evolution of transportation, communication and technologies in Iceland. There, you can see how this nation evolved from the age of the working horse to the digital communications of the 21st century.

  The Skógasafn museum also includes a café and a museum shop, and in the village of Skógar, you will find both a hotel and a restaurant.

  At the eastern side of Skógafoss, you will find one of Iceland’s most famed hiking routes; the Fimmvörðuháls pass. The 22 kilometre (14 miles) trail takes you along Skógá river, between two glaciers, Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull, before ending in the beautiful Þórsmörk valley.

  Skógafoss is often visited alongside the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, which is just a little further along the South Coast. Both fall from cliffs of the same height, and while Skógafoss is much more powerful, Seljalandsfoss has a cave behind it, which means it can be fully encircled. It is also next to a much lesser known but still awe-inspiring waterfall, Gljúfrabúi.

  Folklore

  A gold ring is on display at the Skógasafn museum. According to legend, the ring is from a chest that was owned by Þrasi Þórólfsson, one of the first Viking settlers in the area, who by some accounts was a giant. Folklore states that before his death in 900 AD, Þrasi buried a chest filled with gold in a cave behind Skógafoss waterfall.

  Many attempts were made to retrieve the chest after Þrasi’s death, and years later, locals managed to grasp a ring on the side of the chest. As they pulled, the ring broke off, and the treasure was lost forever. The ring was then given to the local church before it made its way to the museum.
  

  Skógafoss,

  

  Seljalandsfoss is a waterfall that can be fully encircled, situated on the South Coast of Iceland with a drop of 60 metres (200 feet).

  Due to the waterfall’s close proximity to the Ring Road and impressive natural features, it is one the country's most famous and visited falls. Majestic and picturesque, it is one of the most photographed features in all of Iceland.

  Geology and Surroundings

  Seljalandsfoss waterfall, part of the river Seljalandsá, has its origins underneath the glacier Eyjafjallajökull. The volcano beneath this ice cap was the one that erupted in 2010 and caused havoc at airports across Europe.

  The cascade of the falls is relatively narrow but falls from a tall cliff that once marked the country's coastline, the sea is now located across a stretch of lowlands and is visible from the site.

  

  The most distinguishing feature of Seljalandsfoss is a pathway that stretches all the way around it. The cliffs behind the falls have a wide cavern, and rocks and paths allow guests to fully encircle it in summer.

  Though a mesmerising opportunity, visitors should be prepared to get dampened due to the perpetual mist of the falls, which also tends to make the rocks of the pathway slippery. 

  Floodlights have been set up on both sides of the waterfall, which impressively illuminate the scene during the night when the midnight sun is not out. The lights were installed in 2001 due to the growing popularity of the falls as a tourist destination.

  After visiting Seljalandsfoss, it is common for visitors to continue north to the waterfall Gljúfrabúi, which is found partially hidden behind a rock face. Because of Seljalandsfoss extreme popularity, Gljúfrabúi is widely considered the hidden gem of the scene, as it is too often overlooked.

  Seljalandsfoss is also usually visited alongside the nearby Skógafoss. The waterfall falls from the same height, and while it cannot be encircled, it is much more powerful and steeped in the legend of a giant’s hidden treasure.

  Visitor Centre Controversy

  In 2017, it was announced that a visitor’s centre was to be constructed near the falls. The design of the building indicated that it would be seven metres (23 feet) high and 2,000 square metres (21,500 square feet) in size. Landowners in the area opposed to the idea, proclaiming that the centre would greatly alter the natural appearance of the waterfall’s renowned scenery.

  The project has neither been fully approved nor wholly cancelled, with ideas surfacing of either significantly reducing the size of the construction, or moving the visitor centre’s location further away, for instance to the nearby farmstead Brekkuhorn.

  Seljalandsfoss in Popular Culture

  Along with a multitude of South Iceland’s most famous natural attractions, Seljalandsfoss can be seen in Justin Bieber’s music video for his song ‘I’ll Show You’. Please enjoy the video without emulating any antics that will endanger yourself or the environment.

  The waterfall was also a featured waypoint during the first leg of the sixth season of The Amazing Race, an American reality TV series.
  Seljalandsfoss,

  

  Geysir is a famous hot spring in the geothermal area of Haukadalur Valley, found in south-west Iceland.

  Making up just one of the attractions along the world-renowned Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside Þingvellir National Park and the mighty Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir is most well-known for having lent its name to geysers all around the world.

  Geography 

  Though Geysir itself is rarely active these days, Haukadalur Valley boasts a plethora of hot springs and geysers, including the powerful Strokkur, Smiður and Litli-Strokkur.

  Strokkur is, arguably, the country’s most famous hot spring, shooting vast jets of boiling water from 20 metres (65 feet) up to 40 metres (130 feet) high. Don’t worry about missing this incredible spectacle of nature, as Strokkur erupts every five to ten minutes; just make sure to have your camera ready.

  

  Geysir is much larger, but years can go by between eruptions here; it is currently in an inactive phase. When it does erupt, the water can shoot up in the air as high as 70 metres (230 feet).

  Just a few minutes walk north of Geysir are a wealth of fumaroles emanating steam and gas into the cool Icelandic air. Aside from watching the hypnotic pillars of steam, you will also be able to observe the yellow sulphuric stains along the fumaroles themselves, a result of the earth’s minerals crystallising around the rock bed.

  At the southern part of the valley, Þykkuhverir, you’ll find various bubbling mud pots. These spooky brown cauldrons are actually fumaroles that boil up through the loose ground; after a dry spell, these mud pools are likely to transform into a hardened fumarole.

  Nearby Attractions 

  About two kilometres (one mile) from Geysir is a preserved natural pool called Kúalaug. It has room for three to five people at a time, but care should be taken, as the area around the pool is very delicate. The temperature is 39-43°C (102-109°F), depending on where you are positioned in the pool.

  The water is slightly muddy, as the pool is built on soil, and the bottom is slippery due to algae, so caution is advised when relaxing here.

  Haukadalur has also seen a rise in reforestation in recent times thanks to continued experiments and research in the area. Today, Haukadalsskógur is one of the largest forests in south Iceland, boasting accessible walking paths (also for wheelchair users), fascinating vegetation and The Tree Museum, built in the memory of forester Gunnar Freysteinsson.

  History 

  Haukadalur has been inhabited and used as a church site since the Age of Settlement. Given its historic value, it should be noted that scholar, Ari “The Wise“ Þorgilsson, grew up here; it was also where the first pastoral school in Iceland was built.

  The current wooden church was last rebuilt in 1938 but its architectural style dates back to 1842, making it well worth a visit to see how Iceland looked before industrialisation.

  For accommodation, Hotel Gullfoss is approximately 7 kilometre from the Geysir area, and closer still is Hotel Geysir on the other side of the road from the attraction, where you will also find a restaurant, café and a souvenir shop.

  Geysir,

  

  Gullfoss (translated to ‘Golden Falls’) is one of Iceland’s most iconic and beloved waterfalls, found in the Hvítá river canyon in south-west Iceland.

  The water in Hvítá river travels from the glacier Langjökull, before cascading 32 meters (105 feet) down Gullfoss’ two stages in a dramatic display of nature’s raw power. This incredible site is seen by most visitors, as it is on the Golden Circle sightseeing route.

  Because of the waterfall’s two stages, Gullfoss should actually be thought of as two separate features. The first, shorter cascade is 11 metres (36 feet), whilst the second drop is 21 metres (69 feet). The canyon walls on both sides of the waterfall reach heights of up to 70 metres (230 feet), descending into the great Gullfossgjúfur canyon. Geologists believe that this canyon was formed by glacial outbursts at the beginning of the last age.

  In the summer, approximately 140 cubic metres (459 cubic feet) of water surges down the waterfall every second, whilst in winter that number drops to around 109 cubic metres (358 cubic feet). With such energy, visitors should not be surprised to find themselves drenched by the waterfall’s mighty spray.

  As mentioned, Gullfoss makes up a part of the highly popular Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside Geysir geothermal area and Þingvellir National Park. Many Golden Circle tours include additional activities that can be taken from Gullfoss, such as ascending the mighty nearby glacier Langjökull and entering its ice tunnels, or snowmobiling along its gleaming surface.

  History

  

  In the early days of the last century, Gullfoss was at the centre of much controversy regarding foreign investors and their desire to profit off Iceland’s nature. In the year 1907, an English businessman, Howell, sought to utilise the waterfall’s energy and harboured ambitions to use its energy to fuel a hydroelectric plant.

  At the time, Gullfoss was owned by a farmer named Tómas Tómasson. Tómas declined Howell’s offer to purchase the land, stating famously “I will not sell my friend!” He would, however, go on to lease Howell the land without the knowledge of a loophole that would allow him to proceed with his plans.

  It was Tómas’ daughter, Sigríður Tómasdóttir, who would lead the charge to stop Howell’s ambitions. Having grown up on her father’s sheep farm where she helped pave the first road to Gullfoss, she sought to get the contract nullified, hurriedly saving her own money to hire a lawyer.

  The ensuing legal battle was an uphill struggle; the case continued for years, forcing Sigríður to travel many times by foot to Reykjavík, a distance of over 100 kilometres (62 miles). Circumstances became so difficult that Sigríður threatened to throw herself into the waterfall if any construction began.

  Her tenacity, however, resulted in success. In 1929, Howell’s withdrew from the lease, unable to keep up with the costs and difficulties of his plan. The waterfall fell back into the hands of the Icelandic people.

  Today, Sigríður is recognised for her perseverance in protecting Gullfoss and is often hailed as Iceland’s first environmentalist. As such, she is one of the most famous figures in Iceland’s history. Her contribution is forever marked in stone; a plaque detailing her plight sits at the top of Gullfoss.

  Interestingly, the lawyer who assisted Sigríður, Sveinn Björnsson, went on to go down in history too; he became the first president of Iceland in 1944.

  Restaurant / Cafe

  Besides Gullfoss, visitors can enjoy the views from Gullfoss Cafe, a locally run delicatessen that serves a wide variety of refreshments and meals. The menu has options to tantalise everyone’s taste buds: hot soups, sandwiches, salads and cakes. There is also a shop on site where visitors’ can browse and purchase traditional Icelandic souvenirs.

  Gullfoss,

  

  The glacier volcano of Eyjafjallajökull is notorious the world over for causing havoc to air travel in 2010, and stumping television anchors everywhere as they tried to pronounce it. 1651 metres (5427 feet) tall, it is one of the most dominant features of the South Coast.

  Geography

  The glacier of Eyjafjallajökull is approximately 100 square kilometres (39 square miles), making it the country’s sixth largest. It sits close to the fourth greatest, Mýrdalsjökull, which also conceals another notorious volcano, this one called Katla.

  While Eyjafjallajökull’s eruption was huge and disruptive, it pales in comparison to the potential of Katla. Far more explosive, and under much thicker ice, an eruption here in unfavourable wind conditions could have worldwide consequences.

  The magma chambers between both of these mighty volcanoes are connected, and, unfortunately for us, an eruption at Eyjafjallajökull is usually followed by one at Katla within a decade.

  Eyjafjallajökull has many glacial outlets, the most famous being Gígjökull. Many rivers flow from its meltwater, and one of these falls into the beautiful South Coast waterfall, Seljalandsfoss, which it is possible to fully encircle.

  Eruptions

  Eyjafjallajökull’s most recent eruption was no doubt the most famous in Iceland’s history (although the honour really should go to Laki, the 1783-4 eruption of which caused an ash cloud so great that Europe fell into a famine that many historians believe led to the French Revolution). On March 27th, 2010, magma began to bubble from beneath the surface, and by April 14th, ash was starting to billow from the peak.

  800 people were evacuated, in fears not of magma, but of equally dangerous glacial floods, which have decimated Icelandic towns in the past. Animals were ordered to be kept inside, and those with respiratory problems told they should also stay indoors.

  Air travel across Europe was halted, as, by the evening of April 15th, the ash was already over the UK, Scandinavia, and parts of Germany. Holidaymakers were trapped, waiting for news, and would end up stuck for eight days; in Scotland and Ireland, there were even flights delayed in May due to lingering effects.

  Thankfully, no one was injured, although the ash is thought to have caused respiratory issues for some in the south of the country. Many farms were also destroyed by the ash and floods, with some farmers still struggling to recover today.

  Since settlement in 874, Eyjafjallajökull has also erupted in 900, 1612, and from 1821 to 1823. The latter released a huge amount of fluoride which is believed to have affected the bone health of humans and animals alike at the time.

  Eyjafjallajokull today

  Eyjafjallajökull is now entirely safe to visit and is seen on most tours of the South Coast in clear weather. In the town of Hvolsvöllur, there is a visitor’s centre on the volcano, which focuses on the experience of one family whose farm, Þorvaldseyri, was one of the many destroyed by the floods, lava and ash.

  It is very unlikely that Eyjafjallajökull will erupt again any time soon, with hundreds of years between each eruption, but as mentioned, its neighbour Katla might start rumbling...

  Eyjafjallajökull,

  

  Þingvellir National Park is the only UNESCO World Heritage site on the Icelandic mainland and one of the three stops on the world famous Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside the Haukadalur Geothermal Valley (Geysir) and Gullfoss Waterfall. Just to the south of the park is Þingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest natural lake.

  Geography 

  The first thing that visitors to the National Park notice is its sheer aesthetic beauty; dried magma fields, covered in Icelandic moss, sit carved by glacial springs and surrounded by a bowl of ancient mountain peaks.

  Two of the greatest attractions in the park are the exposed North American and Eurasian tectonic plates; it is one of the only regions in the world where you can see geology such as this on land.

  Visitors are encouraged to walk along the North American tectonic plate, where they can read more about the area’s fascinating formation and history, before descending into the valley below.

  History 

  

  Þingvellir can be anglicised to ‘Fields of Parliament’, a nod to the area’s fascinating history and relevance to Icelandic culture. It is here, after all, that the world’s first democratically elected parliament that remains functioning, Alþingi, was formed in 930 AD.

  It may seem unlikely that Vikings would want to be under such an uncombative government, but the thirty or so clans that lived in Iceland at the time sought to prosper in their harsh new environment.

  The first gathering was such a success that the meetings became annual, and it became a place where disputes were settled, criminals were tried, and laws to the benefit of all were laid down.

  This saw the birth of the Icelandic Commonwealth, a time of independence and freedom for the Icelandic people before they became constituents of the Norwegian monarchy. Sessions would continue to be held at Þingvellir until 1798.

  Though the parliament was removed by the Danish at this time, it returned 1845 to Reykjavík.

  Another major reason as to why Þingvellir is considered so important to Icelanders is the fact that this is where the decision was made to abandon the belief of Paganism and the Norse Gods; the people adopted Christianity in 1000 AD under threat of invasion from Norway.

  This turning point in history was left to the pagan lawspeaker, Þorgeir Þorkelsson, who rested on the choice for one day and one night before reappearing to share his decision.

  To symbolise the country’s change, he threw idols of his old deities into the northern waterfall Goðafoss, the name of which translates to ‘Waterfall of the Gods’.

  Silfra Fissure 

  Þingvellir is one of the most widely visited attractions in Iceland, in large part due to the fact that it is home to the glacial spring, Silfra fissure, one of the top ten sites in the world for snorkellers and scuba divers.

  Silfra (meaning ‘Silver’) is a submerged ravine within the park, boasting visibility of up to 100 metres (328 feet) and a temperature just above freezing. Participants in these tours will be attired at the Silfra carpark in neoprene hoodies and gloves, as well as an undersuit and drysuit for thermal protection.
  Þingvellir,

  

  Krýsuvík is a geothermal area, located on the Reykjanes Peninsula in south-west Iceland.

  Geothermal activity at Krýsuvík

  The Krýsuvík Geothermal Area is defined by mud pots, hot springs and steaming vents, as well as the multi-coloured mineral deposits that stain the earth. The reason for so much geothermal activity here is because of Iceland’s tectonic plates.

  The Mid-Atlantic Rift runs all the way through Iceland; the western part of the country, including Reykjavík, the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula and the Westfjords, are all on the North American tectonic plate, while the east, including the East Fjords and Vatnajökull National Park, are on the Eurasian plate.

  This rift runs right across the Reykjanes Peninsula, and has dramatic consequences on the landscapes. As these plates pull apart, magma is brought close to the surface of the earth, causing groundwater to boil and create geothermal areas.

  Krýsuvík, in fact, is not the only geothermal area on the peninsula; there is another called Gunnuhver, and a hot spring beneath the lake of Kleifarvatn.

  These plates pulling apart make the Reykjanes Peninsula susceptible to earthquakes; it is also lined with cone-shaped volcanoes, and coated in lava rock, revealing a long volcanic history.

  Exploring Krýsuvík

  What makes Krýsuvík most unique as a geothermal area is that it has been excellently prepared for visitors.

  Walkways take you safely across the uneven earth to the different features of the area, and there are many signs that have been erected to explain the geothermal and geological forces at work.

  There is also a carpark right beside Krýsuvík for the convenience of drivers.

  As the geothermal area is right in the middle of the Reykjanes Peninsula, it is recommended to visit it alongside other sites.

  These include Brimketill, an oceanside ‘pool’ that was once said to be the bathing place of a troll; the bird-watching cliffs of Krýsuvíkurbjarg; the aforementioned lake Kleifarvatn; and the ‘Bridge between the Continents’.

   

  Krýsuvík,

  

  Strokkur is Iceland’s most visited active geyser. One of the three major attractions on the world-famous Golden Circle sightseeing route, it is usually visited alongside Gullfoss Waterfall and Þingvellir National Park.

  Strokkur is found in the Geysir Geothermal Area, titled after the Great Geysir, which lent its name to all others across the world. It is the greatest active geyser on site; Geysir itself is in a period of inactivity. Strokkur erupts more regularly than Geysir ever did, blasting water to heights of around fifteen to twenty metres every five to ten minutes, although it is known to reach up to forty metres. 

  Strokkur and Haukadalur Valley

  

  Strokkur is the primary feature of the Haukadalur valley and the main reason why it is one of the most visited sites in the country. While Geysir will very occasionally still erupt to enormous heights, it is nowhere near reliable enough to justify the area’s popularity.

  Haukadalur valley, however, has many other features that make it worth a visit. The natural beauty of the area is shaped by the forces of the earth; fumaroles, hot-springs, mud-pits and other little geysers are littered around, and the ground itself is dyed vividly by elements such as sulfur (yellow), copper (green) and iron (red).

  Opposite the main geothermal area in Haukadalur Valley is a restaurant, cafe, hotel and luxury gift shop.

  Science behind Strokkur

  

  Active geysers like Strokkur are rare around the world, due to the fact that many conditions must be met for them to form. They are thus only found in certain parts of highly geothermal areas.

  The first condition that is necessary is an intense heat source; magma must be close enough to the surface of the earth for the rocks to be hot enough to boil water. Considering that Iceland is located on top of the rift valley between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, this condition is met throughout most of the county.

  Secondly, you will need a source of flowing underground water. In the case of Strokkur, this comes from the second largest glacier in the country, Langjökull. Meltwater from the glacier sinks into the surrounding porous lava rock, and travels underground in all directions.

  Evidence of this flowing water can be found in Þingvellir National Park, where there are many freshwater springs flowing straight from the earth.

  Finally, you need a complex plumbing system that allows a geyser to erupt, rather than just steam from the ground like a fumarole. Above the intense heat source, there must be space for the flowing water to gather like a reservoir. From this basin, there must be a vent to the surface. This vent must be lined with silica so that the boiling, rising water cannot escape before the eruption.

  Environmental Issues with Strokkur

  One of the main reasons that Geysir entered a period of inactivity was due to the fact soap used to be pumped into the vents to make the eruptions more dramatic; it damaged the structure of the vent and prevented water building up. Strokkur, therefore, is guarded against all interference, with chains keeping visitors a good distance away.

  Unfortunately, however, there have been incidents where people have meddled with its natural state. For example, an artist called Marco Evaristti once poured food colouring into it to make the eruption pink. He defended himself by claiming that nature was open to artists to utiltise and the fact the colouring was all-natural, but he became a pariah amongst many Icelanders, and was arrested and fined (though never paid it).

   

  Strokkur,

  

  Snæfellsnes is a large peninsula extending from West Iceland, often nicknamed ‘Iceland in Miniature’ due to its wealth and diversity of natural features found there.

  Home to the Snæfellsjökull National Park, at the centre of which is a subglacial volcano that towers over the scenery, this peninsula is home to waterfalls, rock formations, beautiful beaches, historic villages, and an intricate folklore.

  In particularly clear weather, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula can sometimes be seen from Reykjavík, making views across the water from the capital of Iceland particularly beautiful. Those with an extended stay in Iceland are recommended to look into spending at least a day here.

  Natural Sites of Snaefellsnes

  

  The peninsula stretches 90 kilometres (56 miles) from West Iceland, between the Reykjanes Peninsula to the south and Westfjords to the north. A mountain range runs along it, consisting of both active and dormant volcanoes, culminating at the magnificent, ice-capped Snæfellsjökull volcano.

  Starting along the south side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, you will first come to the Eldborg crater, which can be scaled for some incredible views, and the Gerðuberg basalt cliffs, where hundreds of hexagonal basalt columns are arranged with geometric precision. You will then start hugging the coast, where animal-lovers can find the Ytri-Tunga beach and its year-round seal colony.

  The next site of particular natural beauty is the Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, a cleft in a huge cliff face that it is possible to climb into. A stream runs through here, so those who want to plumb its depths will get wet. Those with decent clothing, sturdy shoes and reasonable fitness, however, will be able to get quite far.

  After Rauðfeldsgjá, you will come to the mighty basalt plugs of Lóndrangar. All that remains of what was once a massive crater, these two enormous pillars are not only awe-inspiring in their scale, but home to thousands of nesting seabirds.

  You will then enter Snæfellsjökull National Park, which, in spite of being the smallest of the country’s three national parks, is pregnant with destinations worth visiting.

  The most historic of these is Djúpalónssandur beach. Comprised of black, volcanic sands, it is best-known for the four lifting stones that remain on the beach from a bygone age. Fishermen would use these stones to mark their strength, and gage their suitability to working on the dangerous waves.

  Within the National Park are also two lava caves that can be entered in summer. Sönghellir is renowned for the musical qualities of its echoes, whereas Vatnshellir is favoured for its easy access and vivid colouration. There is a small entry fee to the latter and you cannot enter it without a guide.

  Of course, however, the highlight of this part of the Peninsula is no doubt Snæfellsjökull itself. Even if you are not ascending it on a glacier hiking tour, it is worth stopping by to marvel at.

  This is particularly the case for literature enthusiasts. The adventure in the Jules Verne novel ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’ begins here, and it is the backdrop to the lesser-known novel ‘Under the Glacier’, by Nobel-Prize winning Icelander, Halldór Laxness.

  On the north side of the peninsula is the haunting Berserkjahraun lava field, near the town of Bjarnarhöfn, the history of which weaves deception and murder. Most notable on this stretch, however, is the mountain Kirkjufell, often described as the most photographed mountain in Iceland, and known as "the mountain shaped like an arrowhead" from the popular HBO series, Game of Thrones.

   

  Cultural Sites of Snaefellsnes

  

  There are a few small and beautiful villages dotted across the peninsula, the majority of which are on the northern side, where the fishing is better. Most notable are Arnarstapi, Hellnar, Búðir, Hellissandur, Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur.

  The last of these is highly popular for travellers, featuring a volcano museum and a ferry that takes you across the fascinating Breiðafjörður bay to the south border of the Westfjords with a stop at the remote island of Flatey.

  Other museums of note are the Maritime Museum at Hellissandur, the regional museum at Ólafsvík, and, last but not least, the shark museum at Bjarnarhöfn, where you can taste the Icelandic ‘delicacy’, hákarl, or fermented shark.

  Snæfellsnes,

  

  Reykjanes is a peninsula in south-west Iceland, characterised by immense lava fields, volcanoes and heightened geothermal activity.

    Volcanic & Geothermal Activity

  The Reykjanes Peninsula runs along the Mid-Atlantic Rift, where the Eurasian and the North American tectonic plates are drifting apart. Due to this geological setting, the whole peninsula is extremely volcanically active, covered with lava fields, and eruptions and earthquakes are very common here. 

  During the Middle Ages, many eruptions occurred in Reykjanes, but no eruptions have been recorded here for the last 500 years. This is simply a period of dormancy, however; they could start again at any time.

  Earthquakes are still common. In 2001, one occurred beneath the lake Kleifarvatn and drained it to the extent that it lost 25 per cent of its surface area. Since then, hot springs have been bubbling beneath its surface.

  The main geothermal areas of Reykjanes, however, are Gunnuhver, Krýsuvik and Svartsengi. Various mud pools and fumaroles can be seen at Gunnuhver, while Krýsuvik is characterised by hot springs and mud pots that bestow multicoloured hues upon the soil.

  The green crater lake Grænavatn is also an impressive sight.

  Svartsengi is home to a geothermal power station that produces 76.5 MW of electricity from the 475 litres of 90° C water that gushes from the earth per second.

  The mineral-rich surplus water fills up the Blue Lagoon spa.

    Nature & Wildlife

  Reykjanes' cliffs are teeming with birdlife. Its best-known bird colony resides in Krýsuvikurbjarg which is the nesting place of approximately eighty thousand seabirds. While puffins are not found here, it is an excellent place to spot cormorants, fulmar, and other such species.

  North of Krýsuvíkurbjarg is the aforementioned Kleifarvatn, the largest lake on the peninsula and one of the deepest in Iceland. On the centre of the peninsula is lake Djúpavatn, a popular fishing destination. 

  Reykjanes is hammered by some of the most breath-taking breaker waves in the world. A short drive from Krýsuvík is Selvogur, where one can witness mighty waves shattering against the rocks. On Reykjanestá, the southwest tip of the peninsula, the waves are known to reach heights of thirty metres (nearly one hundred feet).

  Because of this, coastal erosion is constantly ongoing at Reykjanes, and if it were not for the eruptions, it would either be much narrower or simply lost to the seas.

  The peninsula's north side is dotted with fishing villages and towns, most notably Keflavík, Sandgerði, Garður and Vogar. Grindavík town is located on the south shore of the peninsula. Together, the towns and towns Keflavík, Njarðvík, Hafnir and Ásbrú make up the municipality Reykjanesbær which consists of just under 16,000 residents, making it the fifth largest municipality in Iceland.

    Miðnesheiði

  Near Keflavík is the Miðnesheiði heath, where the international airport, Leifsstöð (also known as Keflavíkurflugvöllur, or Keflavík Airport) is located. This is the port of arrival for the vast majority of travellers coming to Iceland.

    The World-Famous Spa

  On the southern tip of the peninsula is the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, an ideal place for relaxing and bathing and one of the most-visited attractions in Iceland.
  Reykjanes,

  

  Sólheimajökull is an outlet glacier of the mighty icecap of Mýrdalsjökull on the South Coast of Iceland. It is one of the most easily accessible glaciers to reach from Reykjavík, just 158 kilometres (98 miles) away.

  For those who are based in Reykjavík, it is by far the favourite spot on which to take guided glacier walks, competing nationally for popularity only with Svínafellsjökull in the south-east.

  Geography of Solheimajokull

  About eight kilometres long and two kilometres wide (five miles long and just over a mile wide), Sólheimajökull is an impressive feature. Due to the way it descends from Mýrdalsjökull, however, without a clear distinction between the two, it appears much bigger.

  Mýrdalsjökull itself has many other outlet glaciers; overall, it is the fourth largest ice cap in Iceland. Beneath its thick surface is one of the country’s most infamous volcanoes, Katla.

  The nearby Eyjafjallajökull erupted in 2010 causing widespread havoc at European airports. Throughout history, eruptions in Eyjafjallajökull mean that Katla will also erupt, and so the volcano is due to go off soon. However, volcanoes and all seismic activity in Iceland is highly monitored, meaning that it is perfectly safe to travel around the area and even take an ice cave tour in the glacier above.

  Sadly, like all the glaciers in Iceland bar one, Sólheimajökull is shrinking rapidly. A glacier lagoon at its base reveals how quickly it is receding: the length of an Olympic swimming pool every year. It seems like this change is already an irreversible consequence of climate change, and it may be gone within decades.

  Visitors to Iceland should, therefore, make sure they witness the ice-cap while it is still with us.

  

  Sólheimajökull has several distinctive traits that separate it from other glaciers. Firstly, it is incredibly easy to find, laying just off of the Ring Road that encircles Iceland. Secondly, it is not surrounded by tall mountains, meaning those who ascend it can attain incredible views of the South Coast. Thirdly, it is home to many walls of ice that can be climbed up with ice axes on certain tours.

  There are also crevasses that snake across the surface, spectacular ice ridges and formations, and a vivid colouration that dances between a gleaming white, electric blue, and ash black. Occasionally, you will even find an ice cave, though these can never be guaranteed.

  A river runs from the meltwater of the glacier tongue, called the Jökulsá á Sólheimasandi. This river runs through a glacial outwash plain - otherwise known as a black-sand-desert - of Sólheimasandur to the nearby ocean.

  Tours on Solheimajokull

  Many day tours run from Reykjavík to Sólheimajökull, for glacier hikes or as part of a greater South Coast tour.

  Greater South Coast tours include visits to other features, such as the incredible waterfalls of Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, the black sand beach Reynisfjara, and some even reach Vatnajökull National Park and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.

  Hidden crevasses and ice caves, slippery surfaces, and the threat of rock- or ice-falls all pose dangers on glacier hikes, but glacier guides have to pass several training courses to deal with these eventualities, making the activity quite safe for those in a fit state of health.

  All guests are equipped with helmets, ice axes, and crampons, and should arrive wearing warm clothes and sturdy hiking boots.

  It is forbidden to ascend glaciers without the correct equipment or training, for your safety and the safety of others. There have been injuries and deaths on Sólheimajökull before, and glacier guides have had to risk their lives to rescue those who flouted the rules.

   

  Sólheimajökull,

  

  Mýrdalsjökull is a glacier in the south of the Icelandic highlands. It is the country's fourth largest ice cap, covering nearly 600 square kilometres (232 square miles), and its highest peak is almost 1500 meters tall. It is most well-known for sitting atop the notorious and explosive volcano, Katla.

  Mýrdalsjökull is visible from Route 1 on the South Coast, sitting to the north of the village of Vík. It is visited on some snowmobiling, ice caving and helicopter tours, and one of its glacial outlets, Sólheimajökull, is the most popular place in the country for ice-climbing and glacier hiking.

  Eruptions beneath Myrdalsjokull

  Since 2010, the world has known of the volcano beneath Eyjafjallajökull; after all, it halted European air travel for over a week and stumped news readers everywhere. Few, however, are aware of the much larger volcano right beside it.

  Mýrdalsjökull conceals Katla, one of the country’s most active volcanoes, having erupted, on average, once every fifty years since 930 AD. Because of the glacier above it, these eruptions tend to cause enormous ash clouds. It is these ash clouds that lead to flights being grounded, crops and livestock poisoned, and have the potential to change the world’s climate.

  

  The last major eruption beneath Katla was in 1918, in which such huge lahar floods occurred that the southern coastline was extended five kilometres outwards. This area is also very susceptible to glacial floods, or 'jökulhlaup', during eruptions, even when the lava does not break through the surface of the ice. These are as dangerous as the lava itself, having wiped out whole Icelandic villages before.

  Historically, the area was little settled for this reason.

  Katla is connected to the same volcanic system as Eyjafjallajökull and usually erupts violently a few years after Eyjafjallajökull does. As the ex-president, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson said in 2010:

  ‘The time for Katla to erupt is coming close… it is high time for European governments and airline authorities all over Europe and the world to start planning for the eventual Katla eruption’

  So it is currently several years overdue. Katla is monitored heavily, and roads around it closed when seismic activity increases. All road closures around Iceland can be found on Road and Coastal Administration's website.

  Tours on Myrdalsjokull

  While there are no eruptions immediately imminent, tours continue to run onMýrdalsjökull, allowing visitors to enjoy the glacier. It is, for example, possible to snowmobile across its surface throughout the year and take ice caving tours beneath it throughout the year, with departures from both Reykjavík and Vík.

  Considering the ice caves under Vatnajökull glacier are usually only accessible from November to March, this provides a wider window of opportunity for travellers to Iceland outside of the depths of winter. It should be noted that the caves in Mýrdalsjökull do not have the same blue ice, however.

  Tours around Myrdalsjokull

  Mýrdalsjökull can be seen on all South Coast tours that reach Vík and beyond in clear weather. It can also be seen from above on helicopter tours that depart from Reykjavík.

  The best perspectives of the glacier, however, can be found on the popular Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail, which goes between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. Part of this hike can be done in a day, or you can take the complete route from Þórsmörk to Skógar on a three-day trek

   

  Mýrdalsjökull,

  

  Skaftafell is a nature reserve located in Vatnajökull National Park in the south-east of Iceland. It is an oasis of this nation’s diverse landscapes and features, so beautiful it was once a national park in its own right.

  Nature of Skaftafell

  Skaftafell is notable for its rich flora, growing between sands and glaciers, and for its amazing, contrasting scenery. Visitors will find a wealth of natural attractions, from cascading waterfalls to glacier lagoons, geological formations to black sand deserts.

  The rugged region is known for its fantastic photo opportunities, with many awe-inspiring panoramic views.

  Like many areas along the South Coast of Iceland, Skaftafell Nature Reserve is known for its glorious hiking trails, often called a ‘hiking paradise’. Unlike in the Highlands, where hikes tend to go on for multiple days, here there are far shorter. There are easy treks that lead to diverse sites such as the waterfall Svartifoss which is surrounded by bizarre and beautiful basalt columns, as well as to glaciers such as Svínafellsjökull.

  With a qualified guide, it is an excellent region to try your hand at a spot of either ice climbing or glacier hiking; both activities are two of the most authentically Icelandic experiences you can partake in whilst in the country.

  The nature reserve is also the perfect base camp for those seeking to climb Iceland’s highest peak, Hvannadalshnúkur, or for those wishing to spend a number of days exploring the region's attractions, including Vatnajökull glacier, Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon and the nearby Diamond Beach.

  Getting to Skaftafell

  Just off the Ring Road in the south-east of the country, it takes approximately four hours to reach Skaftafell from Reykjavík. The South Coast, however, is one of the regions most popular sightseeing routes, so the journey usually takes much longer, as visitors will want to make several stops along the way.

  Examples of the beautiful natural features found en route to Skaftafell include the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, the glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull, the black sand deserts of Sólheimasandur and Skeiðarársandur, as well as the dramatic coastal rock formations at Dyrhólaey and Reynisdrangar.  The villages of Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur are also along Route 1 if you need to stop and refuel on refreshments.

  Those who have made it all the way to Skaftafell will want to be sure to check out the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, a giant lake filled with enormous icebergs breaking from a glacial tongue, and slowly drifting to sea. At the nearby Diamond Beach you can watch them wash upon the shore, and in both the sea and lagoon are many seals which can routinely be spotted.

  Skaftafell Visitor Center

  You will find a Visitors Centre at Skaftafell which acts as the main information and meeting point for tour operators and independent travellers. At the Skaftafell Visitor Centre, you will find answers to virtually any questions you might have about the greater Skaftafell area, including its history and geology. The Visitors Centre also contains information about nearby hiking trails, recreational options and accommodation.  

  There is also a hotel at Skaftafell, though it tends to book up very early. Luckily, the south-east is dotted with hotels, cabins and cottages in which you can stay, and the area is not far from the settlements of Höfn or Kirkjubæklaustur.

  Skaftafell,

  

  Silfra is a fissure filled with fresh spring water within Þingvellir National Park, and one of the country’s most cherished wonders. Snorkelling and diving in its crystal-clear waters is an experience that is both thrilling and relaxing, and it is now considered to be one of the top five dive sites in the world. It takes around an hour to reach Silfra from Reykjavík. 

  Geography of Silfra

  

  Silfra fissure opened in 1789, due to the movements of the tectonic plates that frame Þingvellir National Park. The North American and Eurasian plates, which run all the way through Iceland, separate at about 2 centimetres per year, and as they do, they tear open fissures in the land between them. 

  Some of the ravines fill with water travelling underground through the porous lava fields in the area, originating from Langjökull glacier about 60 kilometres north. It can take the water up to a century to reach Silfra and this long filtration process results in the water being both extremely clear and drinkable.

  

  Because the water travels underground, it maintains a constant temperature of two to three degrees Celsius and does not freeze over immediately at the source of the spring. Snorkelling and diving tours are thus open throughout the year.

  The clarity of the water is what draws most visitors. The visibility can extend to over 100 metres, allowing you to see the canyon walls and bottom like you are floating over a great cathedral.

  The last colour that water absorbs is blue, which means that when you look forward in Silfra, it is as if you are looking into an ethereal, vivid, azure world. The clarity also means that sun-rays refract through the surface of the water, creating rainbows on Silfra’s bed when the weather allows. 

  Snorkelling in Silfra

  

  Snorkelling in Silfra fissure is a highly enjoyable activity, but you must meet some prerequisites to be able to join. These are as follows:

  • You must be able to swim
  • You must be over 16
  • You must be in good physical health
  • You must be at least 145 centimetres and 45 kilograms
  • If you are over sixty, you will need a medical waiver
  • If you are over forty-five with a history of heavy alcohol use and pipe smoking, you will also need a waiver

  The most common option for snorkelling is to conduct it in a drysuit. Drysuits work with a fluffy undersuit to keep your body free from water and insulated against the cold, making the task of swimming through the near-freezing temperature more than achievable. 

   

  While drysuit snorkelling is the most comfortable and popular option, a few tours allow you to go through Silfra wearing a wetsuit. Wetsuits, made of neoprene, allow water to surround your body in a thin layer, that your body then heats up and uses to protect you. Though they grant you more flexibility, they are not so warm, so this should be done by the daring; you will also need to be at least 50 kilograms to snorkel in a wetsuit.

  In all tours, you wear neoprene on your head and hands to allow for better mobility, a mask and snorkel, and a pair of fins, all of which are provided on site. The course of Silfra takes approximately forty minutes, and there is a gentle current throughout, meaning it requires minimal energy to traverse.

  Diving in Silfra

  

  Diving through Silfra gives an extra dimension to its beauty, as you will be able to look up and see the sun glistening upon the surface as you cruise through the crystal clear waters. However, considering the risks associated with diving in cold water and cumbersome equipment, all who partake must meet all the requirements above, as well as one of the following:

  • You must be a qualified diver with a certification in a drysuit speciality, OR
  • You must be a qualified diver with at least 10 logged dives in a drysuit conducted over the past two years, signed by an instructor or divemaster.

   

  Silfra,
  

  Sólheimasandur is a vast area of sand and gravel along the South Coast of Iceland, between the cliffs of the interior and the modern shoreline. It was built up by immense glacier bursts sweeping from the mountains to the shore.

  Geography of Sólheimasandur

  Sólheimasandur is a glacial outwash plain, meaning when that when eruptions happen under the nearby glacier, Mýrdalsjökull, the floodwater rushes across this land for the sea.

  A glacial flood, otherwise called Jökulhlaup (one of two words taken from Icelandic in the English language, the other being geyser) is perhaps the most dangerous immediate element of an Icelandic eruption. While individuals have been killed by lava flows and bombs, many more have lost their lives to the water.

  For this reason, Sólheimasandur has no significant settlements, all the way from the village of Vík í Mýrdal to Kirkjubæjarklaustur. The whole area is vulnerable to glacial floods, which are still notoriously unpredictable to modern science.

  This is especially the case considering that the volcano beneath Mýrdalsjökull, Katla, is Iceland’s most active volcano, which carries a reputation for violently erupting, seemingly at random.

  Even if these eruptions do not break the surface of the ice, they can still cause devastating floods. In fact, these can even be more dangerous, as these eruptions are often not detected..

  If Katla is showing signs of waking, then the Ring Road going south across Sólheimasandur is often closed.

  In spite of its dark reputation, Sólheimasandur is a place of ethereal and haunting beauty. Entirely flat, composed of black sands, it is often compared to a lunar landscape, or else some kind fantastical desert. The views of Mýrdalsjökull, Vatnajökull, the Highlands and the South Coast are also magnificent in clear weather.

  Sólheimasandur is easy to reach, laying on the Ring Road that encircles the country.

  The DC-3 Plane Wreckage

  Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo Credit: Sekeri

  One of the most impressive sights on Sólheimasandur is the DC-3 plane wreckage. Lying abandoned in the sand, a deteriorating skeleton, with nothing but endless black sand surrounding it,  it makes an eerie destination even more ominous.

  It is a US Navy plane, that was flying across the area in 1973; until recently the US had a NATO base at Keflavík, as Iceland has no armed forces of its own. It seemed to run out of fuel - although it was later discovered that the pilot had, in fact, switched to the wrong fuel tank - and had to make an emergency landing.

  Thankfully, no one was killed or injured, although the plane was far too damaged to be repaired.

  Because there were no deaths or injuries, there is nothing tasteless about taking photos with the plane. In fact, it a popular addition to many South Coast tours. Because the wreckage is not expected to remain there for long - considering the regular glacial floods that rush through the area - it is fine to touch it. It is not recommended that you climb on it, however, for safety reasons.

  To reach the plane requires a short walk across Sólheimasandur.

   

  Sólheimasandur,

  

  Hveragerði is a town and municipality in the southwest of Iceland. It is often nicknamed ‘the Earthquake Town’ or ‘the Hot Spring Town’, due to the active geological and geothermal forces that define it.

  Hveragerdi town and services

  Hveragerði is around 45 kilometres (28 miles) from the capital Reykjavík and takes half an hour to drive to along the Ring Road travelling south. Around 2,300 people live in Hveragerði, most employed in tourism, horticulture or agriculture.

  There is a service centre in the town with shops, including an alcohol shop, a supermarket, a gas station, an information point, and a cafe. There are several restaurants as well, and just outside it is a popular horse farm.

  

  Surrounding the town are nice botanical areas and many recreational activities are available. There are excellent hiking trails as well as nice hotels and a camping ground which is open in the summer months.

  In terms of culture, a number of museums can be found in Hveragerði, such as the Árnesingar art museum and Hveragerði Stone and Mineral Museum. The town even hosts an annual culture and family festival in August.

  Geography of Hveragerdi

  Hveragerði sits on a highly geothermal area. Boiling water runs just beneath the surface of the ground, leading to many hot springs in the nearby hills. This is both a blessing for the town and a curse.

  In terms of a blessing, it allows greenhouses to flourish, as they can be provided with heat throughout the year. Hveragerði is thus the world’s northernmost producer of bananas, which are grown alongside a host of other fruits and vegetables.

  Many flowers and herbs are also grown here, and it is considered the centre of botany in Iceland.

  The boiling water also allows food to be cooked simply by burying it for a few hours, providing the restaurants in the area with unique menus. It also brings the area a wealth of tourism.

  The curse of this geothermal water is the effect it has on the residents. Stories of hot springs opening overnight in people’s kitchens, bedrooms and living rooms are very common.

  Also, due to the Mid-Atlantic rift running through Iceland, many earthquakes hit Hveragerði. Fortunately, the houses are built here to withstand tremors, due to how common they are, but there is a lingering knowledge that a powerful earthquake or eruption could cause serious, perhaps irreparable damage to the settlement.

  The river Varmá runs from the valley of Reykjadalur through the town. This region, which translates to the 'Steam Valley', is an incredibly popular place for hot spring bathing and hiking.

  A gravel road that leads from Hveragerði takes you to the base of the hiking trail, which winds up, down and around beautiful, scenic hills dotted with fumaroles and mud pits.

  It ends by a river that is fed by hot springs, meaning it is heated from the top, allowing visitors to choose the perfect place to bathe. There are no indoor changing areas, but screens to undress behind.

   

  Hveragerði,
  Reynisfjara is a world-famous black-sand beach found on the South Coast of Iceland, just beside the small fishing village of Vík í Mýrdal.

  With its enormous basalt stacks, roaring Atlantic waves and stunning panoramas, Reynisfjara is widely considered to be the most beautiful example of Iceland’s black sand beaches. In 1991, National Geographic voted Reynisfjara as one of the Top 10 non-tropical beaches to visit on the planet.

  Reynisfjara is found around 180 kilometers (112 miles) from Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavík, and is a popular stop-off for those taking a sightseeing tour along the popular South Coast.

  Driving to the beach is particularly easy, taking an approximate two and a half hours from the capital, so can easily be done within half a day, or a full one combined with other features.

  Folklore

  Upon visiting the beach, travelers will immediately observe rocky sea stacks sitting off the shoreline, known as Reynisdrangar.

  According to local Icelandic folklore, these large basalt columns were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean to shore. However, these trolls were dim and went out too late in the night; dawn broke on the horizon, turning the trolls into solid stone.

  Another legend tells of a husband whose wife was kidnapped and killed by two trolls. The man followed the trolls down to Reynisfjara where he froze them, ensuring that they would never kill again.

  So mesmerizing are these features that they featured in Season 7 of the HBO Series Game of Thrones; you can spot them in a few scenes shot ‘North of the Wall’.

  The sea stacks themselves are home to thousands of nesting seabirds. Species that can be found here include puffins, fulmars and guillemots, making it a must-see location for all birdwatchers out there.

  Surrounding Sites

  

  Reynisfjara beach is located conveniently in the middle of the South Coast, adjacent to the village of Vík. This means that those taking the Ring Road around the country, or else those heading to the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, will pass it, and are encouraged to make a stop.

  The closest major landmark is the Dyrhólaey rock arch and cliffs. While many seabirds are found at Reynisfjara, it is nothing compared to the numbers here. From May to August, it is one of the best places to see puffins from land.

  En route to Reynisfjara from Reykjavík, you will discover waterfalls, such as Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, and glaciers, such as Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. Further along the South Coast, you will reach the Vatnajökull National Park, with its many glacier tongues, glacier lagoons, black sand deserts, and the incredible Skaftafell Nature Reserve.

  Potential Dangers

  

  Visitors to Reynisfjara must be made well aware of the potential dangers present at the beach. First of all, the rolling, roaring waves of Reynisfjara are particularly violent, often pushing far further up the beach than many would expect.

  These are called sneaker-waves, and they can appear when least expected, even on incredibly still days. There are no significant landmasses in between Antarctica and the shores of Reynisfjara, meaning waves have thousands of kilometers to build.

  Visitors are advised to never turn their back on the waves, and keep a safe distance of at least 30 meters (98 feet).

  Aside from these sudden and dramatic shifts in the tide, the rip currents offshore are infamous for their strength and ability to drag helpless people out into the freezing cold open ocean. A number of fatal accidents have occurred at Reynisfjara, the last of which occurred in January 2017.
  Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach,

  Photo by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir

  Stykkisholmur is a town of about 1,100 people on northern shore of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. It is a centre of service and commerce in the area, and the ferry Baldur sails from here to Brjanslaekur in the Westfjords.

  History of Stykkisholmur

  Stykkisholmur has long attracted settlers due to its natural harbour and its access to the fertile fishing grounds of Breiðafjörður.

  Because of its early settlement, it features in the Sagas (if not by name), notably Laxdæla Saga, one of the great early works of Icelandic literature. It is one of the earliest European stories with a passionate and powerful female lead Guðrún Ósvífrsdóttir, who struggles against a destiny to lose four husbands while trying to keep her children close and safe.

  According to the tale, she eventually became the country’s first nun, and when she died, was buried at Helgafell, a small mountain near Stykkisholmur.

  The first proper development for the town, however, came in 1550, with the creation of a trading post. Trading posts were uncommon in Iceland at the time due to the dangers and distances involved with travelling across the Atlantic, but Stykkisholmur’s natural harbour made it possible.

  The settlement grew further with the beginning of the Danish Trade Monopoly over Iceland, starting in 1602 and not ending until near the end of the 18th Century. Though the policies of this monopoly disenfranchised and impoverished many Icelanders, it did help the development of towns along the peninsula such as Stykkisholmur.

  In spite of the animosity felt from Icelanders towards the Danish under their colonial rule (a wound that has all but healed in every arena apart from perhaps sports), Stykkisholmur has always boasted good ties with their former rulers.

  Every years since 1994, on the third weekend of August, Stykkisholmur holds a ‘Danish Day’, where it celebrates the historic and continued relations between the town and country. It is also the sister town of Kolding in Denmark.

  Culture at Stykkisholmur

  Photo from 'The Ultimate Guide to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula'

  Stykkisholmur is a cultural hub, particularly considering its size. There is museum called the Norwegian House, which is the oldest two-storey building in Iceland, from 1828, and reveals what life was like for wealthy Icelanders of the day. There is also a Volcano Museum and the country’s oldest weather station, dating back to 1845.

  Scenes to represent Greenland in the film ‘The Secret Life of Walter Mitty’ were shot in Stykkisholmur. In the novel Red Storm Rising, the town was the landing point of American troops liberating Iceland from the clutches of the Soviets.

  Surroundings of Stykkisholmur

  Stykkisholmur is on the northern side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and thus close to many incredible natural sites. The two most significant are Mount Kirkjufell and Snæfellsjökull National Park.

  Kirkjufell is often nicknamed Iceland’s most photographed mountain; it rises from the edge of the ocean like a pyramid, and can be admired from many angles. Particularly pleasant is viewing it from beside the waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss, which trickles nearby.

  Snæfellsjökull is one of Iceland’s three National Parks, named after its crowning glacier and volcano. This magnificent, twin-peaked feature has featured in novels such as Jules Verne’s ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’, and Halldor Laxness’ ‘Under the Glacier’.

  It is also steeped in folklore and mystery, said to home the spirit of the peninsula’s guardian spirit and a centre of strange energies. This was so much the case that thousands of people, including new crews from the United States, showed up one evening that some theorists predicted an alien craft landing on it.

  On the southern side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula are many more attractions such as the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs, Ytri Tunga seal watching beach, and the Rauðfeldsgjá gorge.

   

  Stykkishólmur,

  

  Hellnar is an old fishing village on the westernmost part of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. It used to be one of the largest fishing stations of the peninsula, with the oldest written record of seafaring there from 1560.

  History of Hellnar

  Historically, the settlement was a hub of activity, with many trading and fishing vessels pulling in and out of the harbour daily. There were many farms around the area, and by 1703, 38 houses.

  Though by modern international standards this was nothing, it was rather significant for Iceland at the time.

  Throughout the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, however, Iceland began to develop and industrialise, and its fishing and trading industries began to move to Reyjavík, bringing with them many people.

  Hellnar, therefore, rapidly lost its population and importance, like many other places in Iceland particularly on the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula. The change in the economy hit Hellnar particularly hard, however, considering it was increasingly neglected for the neighbouring village of Arnarstapi, which was favoured by the ruling Danish.

  The settlement was abandoned but for a few farms and a few resilient locals, until tourism began to boom in Iceland. Now, it is a centre for visitors in the area, with many options for rural accommodation.

  Hellnar hosts the guesthouse for Snӕfellsnes National Park, which has a very interesting exhibition about the economy of former times, and on the geology, flora and fauna of the park.

  Sites near Hellnar

  At the shores of Hellnar are spectacular rock formations; much of the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula is incredibly dramatic along its coast, due to the previous volcanism of the area and the waves shattering the brittle lava rock that makes up the land.

  Most notable amongst these that can be reached on foot is a protruding cliff called Valasnös. It has tunnels into the cliff, and its colouration is affected by the time of the day, the movements of the sea, and the prevailing weather conditions.

  Large colonies of birds nest in the area, although it should be noted that puffins do not.

  Hellnar, located at the tip of the peninsula, is a convenient hub for those travelling in their own car, offering easy access to the incredible natural sites nearby. These include the Lóndrangar sea stacks, the mountain Kirkjufell, and the Ytri Tunga seal watching beach.

  Like many other places on Snӕfellsnes, it is easy to see the beautiful glacial capped volcano Snӕfellsjökull from the village.

   

  Hellnar,

  The mighty Langjökull, the ‘Long Glacier’, is the second-largest glacier in Iceland, at 935 square kilometres (361 square miles). For jeep and snowmobile trips, Langjökull is the most popular glacier in Iceland, and skiing and hiking here is possible as well.

  Highland tracks

  

  Langjökull is located in the Highlands, and two main highland tracks, connecting the north and the south of Iceland, lie alongside it.

  The Kaldidalur road stretches from Þingvellir National Park northwards to Húsafell. The Kjalvegur road, meanwhile lies east of Langjökull and west of Hofsjökull glacier, starting near the famous Gullfoss waterfall to the south, and passing through the beautiful Hveravellir geothermal area to the north.

  The landscape of Langjokull

  Langjökull is about 50 kilometres (31 miles) long and up to 20 kilometres (12 miles) wide, and the ice is around 580 metres (1,903 feet) deep at its thickest. The glacier reaches its highest point in its northernmost part, which is called Baldjökull, rising around 1,450 metres (4,757 feet) above sea level.

  The glacier lies over a massif of hyaloclastite mountains. The tops of these mountains can be seen in certain places on the glacier. It also conceals at least two active volcanic systems, the calderas of which are visible from the air.

  The best known of these systems fuels the geothermal area of Hveravellir, east of Baldjökull. Also in the east lies the Kjalhraun lava field, which formed about 7800 years ago.

  To the northwest of the glacier is another system that produced the vast Hallmundarhraun lava field, through which the Hvítá river runs in the direction of Gullfoss waterfall. Also in the area is Iceland‘s longest lava cave, the fascinating Surtshellir.

  Southwest of Langjökull is the Presthnúkur lava field, fissures of which creep under the ice. South of the glacier is the Lambahraun lava field and even further south lies the Skjaldbreiðarhraun lava field and the Skjaldbreiður shield volcano.

  Compared to other regions in Iceland, the area is considered relatively calm, with only 32 eruptions in the last 10,000 years.

  Into the glacier

  Near the highest peaks of Langjökull exists a man-made ice tunnel, a true spectacle for any visitor passing by the glacier. Designed and constructed by geophysicist and presidential candidate Ari Trausti Guðmundsson, the tunnel exists to allow visitors to explore the inside of a glacier without having to come to Iceland in mid-winter for a chance to see the less-than-reliable ice caves.

  Guests traverse beneath Langjökull's thick ice sheet, experiencing the vivid blue colouration within, and gaining an insight into the glacier's beauty, formation and processes. It is the only place in the world where this is possible. ‘Into the Glacier’ tours are often combined with adventure activities such as snowmobiling.

  Nearby glaciers

  The glaciers located nearest to Langjökull are Eiríksjökull, which conceals the highest mountain in west Iceland, and Þórisjökull. Hrútfellsjökull also lies on the east side of Langjökull.

  Between Þórisjökull and Geitlandsjökull is a valley called Þórisdalur. Along with stunning views, it features prominently in Icelandic folk tales; the outlaw Grettir the Strong of Grettis Saga, for example, is reported to have resided here for one winter.

  Langjokull and the Golden Circle

  

  Iceland’s most popular sightseeing route, the Golden Circle, would not be possible if not for Langjökull glacier; none of its three iconic features would exist in their current state without the melting ice.

  Gullfoss waterfall is the most obvious example of this. The river that feeds into it, the Hvítá, is a glacier river flowing straight from Langjökull; the scale of the ice cap is hinted at by the sheer volume of water that cascades here every second.

  The hot springs at Geysir, meanwhile, are supplied with water underground. Meltwater from Langjökull feeds into the surrounding lava fields, which have very porous rock, and flows in a subterranean river to the geothermal area, where it comes bursting out of the naturally forms vents.

  While Þingvellir would still have its National Park and World Heritage status without Langjökull, which it received for being the original site of what is now the longest-running representative parliament in the world, it would be notably less beautiful.

  Many springs exist throughout the park, also formed by the underground meltwater of the glacier. Due to its long filtration process, the water emerges as some of the clearest naturally occurring water in the world.

  Silfra fissure, therefore, is the best snorkelling and diving location in the country and consistently ranked as one of the top ten places for such activities in the world.

  Global warming

  Langjökull is shrinking fast and concerns have been raised about the glacier due to the effect of global warming. Some researchers fear that if climate change continues at its current rate the glacier may be gone in 150 years. Less optimistic scientists have said it could be gone in as few as 50.

   

  Langjökull,

  Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo by Emstrur

  Kleifarvatn is the largest lake on the Reykjanes Peninsula, located in the south-west of Iceland. It covers an area of 9.1 square kilometres (3.5 square miles) and is one of Iceland's deepest lakes, reaching a depth of 97 metres (318 feet).

  Geography of Kleifarvatn

  Kleifarvatn is located in the centre of the Reykjanes Peninsula, near the Krýsuvík and Gunnhver geothermal areas. This region is renowned for its geothermal and geological activity; the landscape is covered in a thick layer of lava, which itself is topped by a haunting moss, and hot springs steam in many areas. A row of active volcanoes run along its length.

  The peninsula, and Kleifarvatn itself, lies on the fissure zone of the Mid-Atlantic ridge, between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. Their movements, as they pull apart, are what cause this region to have so many eruptions and earthquakes.

  An earthquake in 2000, in fact, occurred beneath Kleifarvatn, and drained it of over twenty percent of its surface area. It has since recovered, but not quite the same; the seismic event created hot springs in one corner of the lake.

  The draining of Kleifarvatn inspired the Icelandic author Arnaldur Indriðason to write a novel, titled after the lake. In the crime-fiction, the receding waters uncover a body long hidden beneath the surface, and the story follows how she died, and at whose hand. The name of the translation is ‘the Draining Lake’.

  Kleifarvatn is not fed by any rivers; all the water coming in and out of it comes from the porous lava rock around it. In spite of this, it still has a high fish population, and is popular amongst anglers.

  Kleifarvatn folklore

  According to folklore, a whale-like monster lives in Kleifarvatn, akin to the Loch Ness Monster. It is one of two beasts of cryptozoology in Icelandic tales; the other regards a serpent in the eastern lake of Lagarfjlót.

  Activities in Kleifarvatn

  Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo by Balou46

  Kleifarvatn is usually visited on sightseeing tours of the Reykjanes Peninsula. Recently, however, scuba diving tours have began in it. On these tours, divers can see the hot springs and feel the bubbles, while exploring the world between two tectonic plates.

  The only other place this is possible is Silfra ravine. The water here is a lot clearer, having visibility for up to a hundred metres, but it has much less life in it in Kleifarvatn.

  The sightseeing tours visit an array of sights on the Peninsula beside Kleifarvatn. These include the aforementioned geothermal areas, a ‘bridge between the continents’, the Reykjanes lighthouse, and the many fishing villages that nestle in the lunar landscapes.

  Some also include activities in the surrounding area, such as lava tubing in the nearby cave of Leiðarendi. Caving here provides an excellent opportunity to learn about the peninsula’s geological history and folklore.

  Of course, no discussion of the Reykjanes Peninsula can be complete without a mention of the Blue Lagoon. This stunning resort is renowned the world over for its azure waters and silica masks, as well as its healing properties.

   

  Kleifarvatn,

  

  Arnarstapi is a village on the southern side of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, once a fishing hub and now a place for travellers to refuel before entering Snæfellsjökull National Park. The area has several old and charming houses with interesting stories to them and is renowned for its beautiful nature.

  History of Arnarstapi

  Records of settlements around Arnarstapi date back to the Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, an ancient Icelandic Saga that tells of the half-human, half-ogre who once lived on the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Since his death, he has been considered the area's guardian spirit.

  The region was popular with settlers due to its natural harbour, meaning fishing in the rich herring grounds of the surrounding waters was easy. When Norway, and to a much greater extent when they took over, Denmark, were in control of Iceland, Arnarstapi grew increasingly as a trading port.

  Denmark invested a lot of money into Arnarstapi throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (for their own interests, unfortunately not those of the Icelanders). Many of the resulting buildings still stand today, being some of the oldest in the country, such as the Danish Prefect’s Residence, which was built in the 1770s.

  In the industrial revolution, Arnarstapi’s population radically shrunk which was common in the countryside at this time. The vast majority of Iceland’s jobs were now centralised in Reykjavík, reducing opportunities for small-time fishermen and their businesses, and the town became little more than a hamlet as a result.

  As Iceland’s infrastructure rapidly improved after independence in 1943, and more people abroad began to see the many wonders of this island as a travel destination; Arnarstapi, like many other settlements in the area, got a new lease on life.

  Fishing and trade remain vital parts of the economy, but they now play second fiddle to tourism and services. The village has essential services for those travelling on the peninsula, a wide array of accommodation options, and tour companies operating from it.

  Nature and Sites around Arnarstapi

  

  The beach at Arnarstapi holds a particular attraction. It has an eroded circular stone arch, called Gatklettur, and here, the interplay of spectacular waves and the light of the sun create a fascinating spectacle. Large colonies of the arctic tern also nest in the area, and both these features make it very popular amongst photographers.

  An old horse trail through the lava field Hellnahraun is highly popular for hiking, due to the impressiveness of the surrounding landscape.

  Arnarstapi, however, should never be too long a stop on a tour of the peninsula. As lovely as it is, the natural attractions nearby simply warrant more time. The village, for example, sits on the cusp of Snæfellsjökull National Park, home to the Snæfellsjökull glacier and volcano, the beauty of which has inspired writers and artists for centuries.

  This is one of only three National Parks in the country, but it is to the credit of the peninsula’s beauty that it is far from the only must-see destination around. Very close to Arnarstapi is the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs, huge towers of lava that from a distance look like a fortress.

  Vatnshellir and Sönghellir and two nearby lava caves (the former of which can only be entered on a guided tour). There is also a beautiful cleft in a mountainside called Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge that it is possible to climb into.

  Though a little further away, on the north of the peninsula, Kirkjufell mountain is also a wonderful site to behold.

   

  Arnarstapi,

  

  Vík í Mýdral, or just Vík, is the southernmost village on the Icelandic mainland, located 186 kilometres (110 miles) from the capital Reykjavík.

  Often visited by those travelling the popular sightseeing route along the South Coast, it is a wonderful place to stop, recharge, and if you are taking your time, rest for the night. Though it only has around 300 residents, the village is very popular amongst tourists for its convenience and beautiful surrounding landscapes.

  Features near Vik

  Reaching Vík from Reykjavík takes approximately two and a half hours, and en route, there are many marvellous features to admire. Two of the country’s most famous waterfalls, Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, lay between the two destinations; the former has awe-inspiring power, whereas the latter can be fully encircled.

  The glaciers Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull can also be seen on clear days; both of these cover volcanoes which are particularly explosive, with Eyjafjallajökull famously disrupting European air travel in 2010. Out to sea in especially good weather, the Westman Islands can also be seen on the horizon.

  Just before Vík are the popular birdwatching cliffs of Dyrhólaey, where you can also find an enormous rock arch curving out into the ocean. This is one of the best places for birdwatching in Iceland, with thousands of puffins nesting here from May to August.

  The village itself sits opposite one of the country’s most famous features: Reynisfjara black sand beach. Considered one of the world’s most beautiful non-tropical beaches, it boasts incredible geology.

  

  Particularly of note are the Reynisdrangar sea-stacks, said to be two trolls frozen in the light of the morning sun as they tried to pull a ship into shore.

  Though this beach makes for a lovely walk, particularly for those staying in Vík overnight, as they can see it under the midnight sun or northern lights, it has its dangers. Sneaker waves can be notorious here, so visitors should stay far from the water’s edge, and never go for a swim. Lives have been lost here before.

  The route to Vík from Reykjavík is beautiful and continues to be so as you travel further along the South Coast, through the Skeiðarásandur black-sand-plains into Vatnajökull National Park. This beautiful region is often the final destination of those passing through Vík, as it is home to the largest glacier in Europe, the Skaftafell Nature Reserve, and Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.

  Of course, ambitious travellers will carry on from here to encircle the full country.

  Wildlife around Vik

  Vík, due to its closeness to the Reynisfjall and Dyrhólaey cliffs, has a rich birdlife. Short walks from the village will take you to the nesting grounds of gulls, fulmar, guillemots, and in summer, puffins.

  Due to its coastal location, visitors to Vík have a decent chance to see seals on the shore. There is also a slim chance to see whales or dolphins; the twenty or so species that live in Iceland’s waters can appear at any time.

  Services in Vik

  Vík has a wide variety of public services, due to its remoteness and its importance in connecting the east and west of Iceland. There are gas stations, shops and cafes, a swimming pool, a wool factory that can be visited, and a wide range of accommodation options for all budgets.

  Please note, however, that as the village has such a small year-round population, those with special dietary requirements should purchase their food from Reykjavík before departing.

   

  Vík í Mýrdal,

  

  Hvolsvöllur is a small town of 950 people in south Iceland, conveniently located by the Ring Road. It is often travelled through or stopped off in by those exploring the South Coast or encircling the country.

  It is very popular as a place to stay in a cabin or bungalow for those who want to be close to the sites of the west and south, such as the Golden Circle, but away from the hustle and bustle of Reykjavík.

  Economy and transport

  Hvolsvöllur’s main economy is services to the surrounding agricultural area, which has an additional 600 people. It is also a growing place tourism, considering its easy accessibility to Iceland’s capital and some of its major natural sites.

  Sitting on the Ring Road means a constant flow of travellers use Hvolsvöllur’s services. It also has a tiny local airport, with flights to the Westman Islands.

  Museum

  The area around Hvolsvöllur features prominently in one of the most famous Icelandic sagas, Njál’s saga. These sagas were epic works of fiction, which encapsulated much of the history (and folklore) of Iceland in its early era.

  Njál’s saga is often thought of as one of the best, as many believe it to have been written by legendary historian and poet, Snorri Sturluson.

  There is an excellent Icelandic Saga Centre in the town that those who love literature and history should not miss checking out.

  ‘The Exhibition of Njál’ is the first of its two exhibitions, introducing guests to the characters of the sagas, along with the Viking cosmology and the literary arts that have existed in Iceland for centuries.

  The other is on the history of trade, commerce and the cooperative movement in the 20th century. While this may not seem fascinating, Iceland’s journey through this time is actually quite a riveting story.

  In the early 1900s, the country had little changed since the medieval era. People still scraped a living off fishing and farming, lived in turf houses or, if they were extremely poor, caves, and had very little industry or infrastructure. The nation was still under the Danish Crown, with little to no contact with the outside world.

  Fast-forward to 1999, and Iceland was already the developed country it is today, leading the world on issues such as gender equality, technological prowess, social fairness and civil rights.

  You can also view a model of Alþingi, Iceland’s parliament, founded at Þingvellir in 930 AD here.

  Hvolsvöllur also has homed the Lava Centre since 2017, an interactive museum where visitors can learn about the earthquakes and volcanoes that shape this country.

  There is also a nice gallery in town, and a good restaurant in the Saga Hall, a replica of a medieval longhouse.

  Nearby attractions

  Hvolsvöllur has a number of interesting hiking routes in its vicinity. Among interesting sights is the large and peculiar rock Drangurinn by the farm Drangshlíð, under the Eyjafjöll mountains.

  Hvolsvöllur is also a short drive from many other interesting attractions, among them some of Iceland’s most famous. One of Iceland’s oldest swimming pools, Seljavallalaug, is about 44 kilometres (27 miles) from the town. At a 14 kilometre (nine mile) distance is the rural area of Fljótshlíð and the farm Hlíðarendi. According to Njal's Saga, its hero, Gunnar, lived there.

  There is good trout and salmon fishing in the nearby rivers. Several interesting caves, both natural and man-made are in driving distance from Hvolsvöllur.

  There is also a number of beautiful waterfalls not far off, the most well known being Seljalandsfoss, which you can walk behind, and Skógafoss, one of Iceland’s highest and most beautiful falls.

  Of course, as mentioned, the town is also a perfect launching point from which to explore the Golden Circle, which consists of the Geysir Geothermal Area, Gullfoss Waterfall, and Þingvellir National Park.

   

  Hvolsvöllur,

  

  Kerið is a volcanic crater lake in the Grímsnes area of South Iceland. It is close to the three major sites that comprise Iceland’s world-famous Golden Circle sightseeing route and thus makes for the perfect detour for those on visiting these landmarks.

  Kerid and the Golden Circle

  The Golden Circle is Iceland’s most popular tourist route. Its three main highlights are Gullfoss, or the ‘Golden Waterfall’; the Haukadalur Geothermal Valley, with its many springs and geysers; and Þingvellir National Park, the only UNESCO World Heritage Site on Iceland’s mainland and the birthplace of the country’s parliament.

  

  There are several tour operators who offer trips to the Golden Circle. Many of those define their tours from others with extra stops, and Kerið crater is the most popular of these. It is approximately 40 minutes drive from Þingvellir and Haukadalur in different directions, providing visitors with two routes by which they can return to Reykjavík.

  If travelling to Kerið crater alone, please be aware that there is a small entrance fee, of 400 ISK (about two Euros, or three US dollars). This is only to help the landowners preserve and protect the crater; after all, it is on privately owned land.

  Other sites you may want to detour on when travelling the Golden Circle are the Sólheimar ecovillage, the Fontana Spa in Laugarvatn, the Secret Lagoon in Flúðir, and the Friðheimar tomato and horse farm.

  Geology of Kerid

  Kerið is approximately three thousand years old, making it roughly half the age of most volcanic calderas found in Iceland. This is the major reason as to why Kerið’s slopes are red in colour, rather than a volcanic black; the iron deposits are, geologically speaking, fresh.

  This vivid redness is part of the appeal of visiting this crater. The crimson rocks contrast dramatically with their surroundings, particularly the intense azure colour of the waters within the crater lake, and the verdant bursts of vegetation.

  Kerið is approximately 55 metres (180 feet) deep, 170 metres (558 feet) wide and 270 meters (886 feet) in circumference. It is possible to take a path right to the crater’s edge, to fully encircle it, and to descend down to the pristine waters of the crater lake.

  Many crater lakes can be found in nearby, a region known as Iceland's Western Volcanic Zone. The area surrounding it is of barren, stark lava fields, further illustrating the volcanism of the region.

  Scientists believe that Kerið was once a cone-shaped volcano. Upon eruption, it is widely believed that the volcano depleted its magma reserve, causing the foundation to fall in upon itself and result in the formation it has today. Of course, this was two thousand years before settlement, so no one is quite certain.

  At some point in the centuries following the collapse, Kerið crater filled with water. The resulting lake is between seven and fourteen metres deep, depending on the time of year and the amount of rainfall.

  The reason why the lake is so vividly coloured is that of the minerals from the rocks, seeping into and dyeing the water the aquamarine colour for which it is renowned.

   

  Kerið,

  

  Kirkjufell, or 'Church Mountain', is a distinctly shaped peak found on the north shore of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula, only a short distance away from the town of Grundarfjörður. It is often called ‘the most photographed mountain in Iceland’, due to its dramatic formation and perfect coastal location.

  Kirkjufell takes its name from its resemblance to a church steeple, sharpened at the top with long curved sides. From other angles, the mountain has been compared to a witch’s hat or even a freshly scooped ice cream.

  Photography at Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall

  Peaking at 463 metres, 1519 feet, Kirkjufell is an impressive landmark. Throughout the centuries, Kirkjufell’s striking slopes have acted as a visual landmark for seafarers and travellers. More recently, it has attracted amateur and professional photographers alike.

  Within walking distance from Kirkjufell is the serene and perfectly located waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss, or 'Church Mountain Falls', an excellent subject for photographers who can easily frame the mountain in the background. Despite its relatively diminutive height, Kirkjufellsfoss’ three-steps, gentle flow, and dramatic differences between seasons make it as impressive as some of Iceland’s larger waterfalls.

  

  At the base of the mountain, visitors will also be able to find a lake; on calm and clear days, this lake reflects a perfect mirror image of Kirkjufell, only adding to the fantastic photo opportunities around this area.

  On top of that, the colours of Kirkjufell change with the passing seasons; the summer sees it a lush green, full of life, whilst the winter months scar the mountain’s face with a mask of barren brown and white. Of course, it is more impressive under the midnight sun in the weeks surrounding the June equinox, and under the northern lights, best seen between September and April.

  Fans of the HBO series Game of Thrones will recognise Kirkjufell as a shooting location from Season 7 of Game of Thrones. The mountain is showcased from the scenes ‘North beyond the Wall’ when Jon Snow, The Hound and Jorah Mormont, amongst others, brave the wilderness in hopes of catching an undead wight.

  Having seen it in a vision, The Hound acknowledges Kirkjufell as “[...] the mountain like an arrowhead”, and the events that happen beneath it are some of the show’s most dramatic.

  Hiking Kirkjufell

  There is a fairly steep trail to the top of Kirkjufell, from where there are magnificent panoramas of the surrounding fields, coastlines and rivers. The mountain takes roughly an hour and a half to ascend, with another one and a half hours needed to get back to the bottom.

  Given the steep elevation and treacherous trail, you should only hike Kirkjufell if you are a very experienced and confident mountain climber, preferably in the company of an expert guide. Sadly, there have been three fatal accidents on the mountain, most recently in 2018.

  Getting to Kirkjufell

  Kirkjufell is extremely close to Grundarfjörður, a small town on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, which is just over two hours drive from Iceland's capital city, Reykjavík. From Grundarfjörður, one travels a few minutes west down Route Snaefellsnesvegur 54 to the base of Kirkjufell. Visitors have plenty of parking space to choose from, all free of charge.

   

  Kirkjufell,

  

  Búðir is a small hamlet in the municipality of Snæfellsbær on the westernmost tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

  The hamlet is located in the lava fields of Búðahraun in the region of Staðarsveit in west Iceland. Búðir consists of a church and a country hotel but is otherwise uninhabited.

  History

  Búðir was once a prosperous fishing village and one of Snæfellsnes' most active trading posts. Medieval sources describe Búðir as one of Iceland's major ports and archaeological evidence suggests portal activity dating back to the earliest settlement of Iceland.

  In the beginning of the 19th Century, the trading post was abandoned but today, the area prospers economically because of tourism.  

  Surroundings

  Búðir boasts the vast lava field Búðahraun that reaches east from the hamlet towards the sea by Faxaflói Bay, and west to the reef of Hraunlandarif. The lava's source can be traced to the 88-metre tall volcanic crater Búðaklettur which is located in the middle of the lava field. The crater has an opening on its south-west side, where one can enter the 382-metre long Búðahellir Cave.

  Búðahraun is acclaimed for its rich flora, boasting approximately 130 different plant species. These include rare and protected species. The eastern part of the lava field has been an official nature reserve since 1977.

  Búðir also consists of a field of tall, windswept grass, and a beach of fair-coloured sand dotted with jet black lava rocks. Hótel Búðir is a charming country hotel where visitors can enjoy the reclusiveness of the surrounding area.

  Búðakirkja

  All that remains of Búðir’s former community is the black wooden church Búðakirkja. A man named Bent Lauridtsen got a bishop’s permit in 1701 to build a church in the area. When it came to deciding the location, an old woman reportedly suggested making a man spin in circles until he became dazed and then have him shoot three arrows into the air. Where the third arrow landed, the church should be built.

  A small turf chapel was built two years later, where it stood until it was dismissed by orders of the Danish King Christian VIII in 1819. Several residents fought for the reclamation of the church until in 1849 the priest’s council allowed for the construction of a new house of worship—as long as the residents of Búðir would fully finance the project and see to its maintenance.

  A woman named Steinunn had meticulously cared for the artefacts from the old chapel, which resulted in the church still donning some of its original items, such a door latch engraved by Bent in 1703. Renovations were made in 1951, and again in the 1980s when it got slightly relocated and reconstructed according to its original Danish design.   

  Búðir,

  

  Reynisdrangar are impressive rock formations situated near the shore of Reynisfjara beach by the coastal village Vík on the South Coast of Iceland.

  The formations are the remains of large and imposing sea cliffs, made up of basalt, that serve as a vital part of the area’s allure; they shoot dramatically out of the ocean under the looming cliffs of Mt. Reynisfjall, making for a beautiful site, and have a folklore that is equally impressive.

  More modern visitors will be excited to know that these pillars also feature in Season 7 of Game of Thrones, at Eastwatch by the Sea.

  Dangerous Waves

  

  Before getting into the wonders of Reynisdrangar, it is important for potential visitors to be aware of the dangers at the site.

  These majestic rock pillars rise from the sea just off of Reynisfjara, a famous black sand beach on the South Coast, by the village of  Vík. Though incredible due to its diverse and dramatic geology, Reynisfjara is gaining a notorious reputation for its sneaker waves.

  There are no significant landmasses between Antarctica and Reynisfjara, giving waves the entire length of the Atlantic Ocean to build strength. This means that even on still, summer days, they can rise from seemingly nowhere and chase far further up the sand than would ever be expected.

  It is absolutely imperative, therefore, that guests stay at least 30 metres (98 feet) from the water’s edge. Those who flout these rules put their lives and the lives of others at risk; people have died here before.

  Folklore

  

  As with almost all bizarre features in this country, there is an Icelandic folk tale that explains the origin of the Reynisdrangar pillars and their eerie appearance.

  According to legend, a couple of trolls saw a ship out to sea by night, and waded out to reach it. They got hold of it, and began to drag it to shore, but as so often happens in troll stories, they got their timing wrong.

  Before they were even close to getting to the shade, dawn broke. The trolls and ship were instantly frozen into stone, and they have remained immortalised since, as a warning to their kin.

  This is not the only folk tale in this area. According to local legend, two other trolls murdered a woman, whose husband hunted them down, tricked them into coming out at night, and ensured they too were turned to stone. Their remains can be found inland.

  Surroundings & Wildlife

  Most visitors will only see the Reynisfjara sea-stacks from the shore of Reynisfjara, although there is an incredibly rewarding alternative view of them from above. Those with a reasonable level of fitness can venture up the bewitching cliffs of Mt. Reynisfjall, by a road to the west of Vík.

  The mountain furthermore holds thousands of puffins every summer, from May to August. These adorable creatures have very little fear of people, and can be approached within metres (although you should never try to touch them). Other birds can be seen gliding around the cliffs such as Arctic terns, fulmars and seagulls.

  The oceans of Iceland are pregnant with life, so lucky visitors may also see seals in the water, or even one of Iceland’s twenty species of whale and dolphin.

  Reynisdrangar,

  Wikimedia, Creative CommonsChensiyuan 

  Grundarfjörður is a small town found on the north coast of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the west of Iceland. It has an approximate population of 872 people and has been twinned with the French town Paimpol since 2004.

  The town’s main industries lie in fishing and fish processing. Grundarfjörður also bears host to substantial ship traffic, a consequence of’ the settlement’s natural harbour.

  More recently, it has become a centre for tourism, due to the incredible beauty of the features on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. It is developing to meet the needs of those who travel through it.

  Grundarfjörður boasts a public library, a historical centre, a resident’s café and a photography exhibition, Bæringsstofa, which is a collection of pictures by the late Icelandic photographer and honorary citizen of Grundarfjörður, Bærings Cecilsson.

  Asides from accommodation and amenities, Grundarfjörður offers the opportunity to partake in numerous outdoor activities, ranging from horseback riding and camping to ice-climbing.

  One can also find a nine-hole golf course beside the town.

  Kirkjufell Mountain

  

  Visitors to Grundarfjörður will likely visit the town’s main landmark, the photogenic Kirkjufell, which translates to ‘Church Mountain’. Clearly distinguishable, and standing alone on the edge of the sea, its dramatic slopes, steeple-like peak and surrounding shorelines make it one of the country’s most beautiful summits.

  Kirkjufell is often called the most photographed mountain in Iceland, due to the variety of different way you can shoot it, and how starkly different it appears under different lights.

  Besides the mountain itself, one can find Kirkjufellsfoss (Church Mountain Falls), a beautiful three-pronged waterfall, which is often favoured as a foreground.

  Rock climbing is possible up Kirkjufell, but only for the very experienced as there have been accidents before.

  Folklore & History

  Nearby, one can find the town and municipality of Stykkishólmur, which has a population of 1,195, and is a centre of commerce and services for the region. The town, more than any other in the region, is considered mystical, with many folk stories and Sagas referencing it.

  The road from Grundarfjörður to Stykkishólmur crosses a wide lava field known as Berserkjahraun. The name of this lava field is derived from the Eyrbyggja saga, in which it said two berserkers (Viking Warriors) were slaughtered by their master because one of them fell madly in love with own daughter.

  It was said that the master had then pave the road across it before killing them.

  Grundarfjörður is an important historical town in Iceland, having been a centre of trade for the Snæfellsnes Peninsula since at least the 15th century. The town was certified official as one the country’s six designated marketplaces in the year 1786.

  There are a number of antiquity sites around the town, however, that point to the region being well-inhabited as far back as the Viking era.

  Like many places on the peninsula, it is likely that it could have been one of the first inhabited places in the country, due to its harbour and the wealth of fish that live just off its shores.

   

  Grundarfjörður,

  

  The Lóndrangar basalt cliffs are amongst the many geological wonders of the Snæfellnes peninsula.

  Geology of Lóndrangar

  Once a volcanic crater, all that remains after aeons of ocean battering are two great pillars upon a cliff, one 75 metres (246 ft) high and the other 61 metres (200 ft).

  Their dramatic scale has earned this incredible formation the nickname ‘the rocky castle.’

  The cliffs can be accessed easily from the Visitor’s Centre, through fields of mossy lava, but they can also be seen from the sea. Surfing is relatively popular in the area and doing so in the shadows of these great peaks only adds to the experience.

  Folklore of Lóndrangar

  The surrounding lands are steeped in folklore; farmers have never made use of the fields around the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs due to the elves that are rumoured to live there.

  Nearby, at Þúfubjarg, another cliff on the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula, it was said that the poet Kolbeinn Jöklaskáld met the devil and struck a deal with him.

  Lóndrangar,

  

  Djúpalónssandur is an arched-shaped bay of dark cliffs and black sand, located on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland. 

  History & Monuments 

  The location was once home to a prosperous fishing village, similar to other abandoned hamlets and ports of the area such as Búðir and Hellnar. These thrived back when the Snæfellsnes Peninsula functioned as one of the most active trading posts of the island, but now are simply centres for tourism.

  Fascinating remnants of this period are found in the form of four ancient lifting stones that still occupy the beach. The stones range in weight from 23 kg (50 lbs) to 155 kg (342 lbs) and were used to test the strength of fishermen. Their names are Amlóði (useless), Hálfdrættingur (weakling), Hálfsterkur (half-strong) and Fullsterkur (full-strong). Even today, you can see how you would have fared working on Iceland's dangerous seas by trying your luck at lifting these stones.

  In 1948, the English trawler Epine GY 7 from Grimsby shipwrecked on the shore, with fourteen dead and five survivors. The rusty iron remains of the vessel remain scattered on the beach, now protected as a monument to those who perished. 

  Environment & Surroundings

  The Snæfellsnes Peninsula boasts countless natural wonders, where locals and travellers both flock on a daily basis to enjoy the unique landscape and stunning coastlines. Djúpalónssandur’s black pebble beach is particularly stunning with its rocky coastal lava formations, which include a large lava rock with a hole in the middle through which you can directly spot the Snæfellsjökull glacier volcano. 

  Behind the rocks are two freshwater lagoons called Djúpulón and Svörtulón, with the former serving as the namesake of the bay. Though believed in olden times to be bottomless, the water bodies were later revealed to reach the depth of just five metres.

  Lagoons such as these are held in high regard amongst the Icelandic people, and Svörtulón is thought to possess healing properties, especially after having been blessed by Bishop Guðmundur góði ('the good') in the late 1100s. 

  A natural monument of the area is Söngklettur, or “singing rock”, a large lava rock with a reddish hue that resembles an elfish church. Other rock formations of folklorish appeal rest close by, including the alleged trolls-turned-to-stone Kerling and Lóndrangar. 

  Warning

  When visiting Djúpalónssandur, take heed that these are treacherous waters and the Atlantic Ocean’s powerful suction can easily carry you out to sea. This beach is not one for wading, but enjoying from a safe distance, especially if the weather is stormy. 

  The video below shows the power and shocking speed of sneaker waves that occur at locations such as Djúpalónssandur and Reynisfjara in the south.

  The glistening pebbles that make up the beach known as Djúpalónsperlur, or “pearls of the deep lagoon”, are gorgeous to look at and might seem appealing to stone collectors, but they are protected by law and should not be removed from the area by visitors.

  Djúpalónssandur,

  

  The Secret Lagoon is a man-made hot spring of natural resources located at Hverahólmi, the geothermal area next to the village of Flúðir in southern Iceland. It is the oldest pool in the country, and one of the most popular for locals and tourists alike.

  Though not as busy as the Blue Lagoon, it still requires pre-booking in the summer.

  Surroundings

  The hot spring is situated within the range of popular tourist route the Golden Circle, close to the waterfall of Gullfoss, in the village of Flúðir.

  This village is renowned for its greenhouse activity, which is used for horticulture and agriculture in the form of many greenhouses. This helps Iceland produce fresh food throughout the year.

  Another major advantage of this geothermal activity is the natural and age-old thermal pools to be found in the area. Hrunalaug is one of those, a minuscule natural hot spring that has regrettably undergone a great deal of damage in the last years due to increased numbers of visitors.

  The Secret Lagoon, however, has been modified to accommodate a much larger number of people. It makes use of its natural terrain and geothermal heating, leaving the water at a temperature of 38-40° Celsius (100° Fahrenheit) all year long.

  The area all around the hot spring consists of mossy lava fields and geothermal hot-spots, including a small geyser that erupts every 5 minutes or so, which can be seen from the pool. A path by the pool allows you to explore this area with ease.

  The steam that rises from the surrounding terrain into the air gives the place its distinct and magical atmosphere.

  History

  

  The pool was constructed in 1891 and is officially the oldest swimming pool in the entire country. Icelanders simply call it 'the old pool' or 'gamla laugin'.

  In the year 1909, the first swimming lessons took place in the pool, which continued until relocated to the new pool in Flúðir in 1947. Before the 1900s, the Icelandic people rarely knew how to swim, in spite of being a nation of fishermen surrounded by an ocean.

  Today, near every single Icelandic person is an able swimmer, since swimming lessons are conducted in pools and are mandatory for every Icelandic child.

  After the opening of the new pool in Flúðir, the Secret Lagoon was all but forgotten, falling into disrepair. Once its ownership changed hands, however, it underwent a renaissance. It has since then been thoroughly renovated, although maintains both a natural charm and air of abandoned, fairytale-like mystery.

  It now attracts hundreds of people every day.

  The Secret Lagoon is often compared favourable to the Blue Lagoon, for being cheaper and less busy. While true, the Blue Lagoon has more facilities, such as saunas and steam rooms, and a wealth of unique properties, such as its azure waters and silica masks, that distinguish it.

  It is also closer to Reykjavík, near to Keflavík International Airport. This means that it can be visited to refresh after a long flight, or in preparation for one.

  Both, however, are in beautiful, serene locations and have their own distinct charm, so many visitors indulge in trips to both.

   

  Secret Lagoon,

  

  Seltún Geothermal Area is but one part of the much larger geothermal area, Krýsuvík, located on the Reykjanes Peninsula, Iceland.

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  • Photo Credit: Wikimedia. Creative Commons. Credit: Rosino

  ---

  Visitors to Seltún will be taken aback by how much the area resembles a lunar landscape. With red, somewhat otherworldly gravel and steaming vents, the site is dotted with bubbling pools of mud, fumaroles and hot springs. There are well-maintained wooden walkways around the springs from where you can observe, with several educational signs about the geothermal effects at work here.

  The sediments brought up by such hots pools range in colour from red, orange and green, creating a dazzling kaleidoscopic effect on the ground and surrounding hills. The reason for this geothermal activity is because of Krýsuvík’s location in the middle of the fissure zone on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, which runs right across the Reykjanes Peninsula. 

  This ridge is the reason the entire region is so barren, covered in jagged, moss-coated lava and lined with volcanoes. It is also responsible for the other main geothermal areas, at Kleifarvatn lake and the Gunnuhver mud pool. It is possible to cross the ridge - and walk from North America to Europe - at the Bridge Between the Continents, although it should be noted that this is a metaphorical crossing; the tectonic plates are several kilometres apart.

  The best place to truly see the edges of the tectonic plates is at Þingvellir National Park, a site of the Golden Circle sightseeing route.

  The German scientist, Robert Bunsen, proposed his thesis on the formation of sulphuric acid after visiting the Seltún geothermal field in 1845. His early work on photochemistry and organoarsenic chemistry paved the way for scholars after him, as did his principled positions on not taking out patents. As can be gathered from his name, he was one of the inventors of the Bunsen Burner.

  The Seltún Geothermal Area is regularly visited on tours around the Reykjanes Peninsula, and can easily be driven to from Keflavík International Airport or Reykjavík in less than an hour.

   

  Seltún Geothermal Area,

   Credit: Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo by Johannes Martin.

  Seljavallalaug is an outdoor swimming pool in South Iceland, roughly ten kilometres (six miles) east of Ásólfsskáli.

  History of Seljavallalaug

  The pool was built in 1923, making it one of the oldest swimming pools in Iceland. The actual oldest is the Secret Lagoon in Flúðir, which dates all the way back to 1891.

  Seljavallalaug is 10 metres (30 feet) in width and 25 metres (82 feet) in length. This made it the largest swimming pool in Iceland until 1936. The largest today is Laugardalslaug in Reykjavík.

  Its establishment was designed to be a place for children to learn how to swim. In spite of being a nation of largely fishermen, swimming was not a widely practised skill back then. Nowadays, every child is taught it in school as a mandatory requirement.

  Since it was built, Seljavallalaug has experienced few changes. Because of its South Coast location, however, it was affected by the 2010 eruption of Eyjafjallajökull glacier. It was entirely filled with ash, making it unusable, until the following summer, when a team of volunteers cleared it out.

  Swimming in Seljavallalaug

  Credit: Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo by BiT

  Unlike the vast majority of Iceland’s swimming pools, there is no admission fee to enter Seljavallalaug. So long as, when you arrive, there is space for you, you are welcome to hop in.

  Please be aware that if you get there before anyone else, you have no claims to the pool, and are required to share.

  It should be noted that swimmers enter at their own risk. There are no lifeguards on duty or other measures to ensure you are safe, so take care, particularly if swimming with children.

  This is particularly the case considering the algae in the pool. This can cover the sides and bottom throughout summer, making it a little bit slippery.

  If this algae is growing excessively, the pool will be dyed a beautiful shade of green.

  It should also be noted that Seljavallalaug is only cleaned once a year. This means that those sensitive to bacteria may want to avoid the water, or find out when this is so they can plan a trip straight after.

  While unlikely to cause serious harm to those with a decent immune system, the facts that this water is not often cleaned and the flow of water in and out of the pool is minimal, while many people get in and out every day, mean that Seljavallalaug is not the country’s most hygienic place to swim.

  Getting to Seljavallalaug

  To reach Seljavallalaug from Reykjavík, drive east along the Ring Road that encircles the country for just over an hour and a half, before turning onto Route 242 for the car park. The pool is situated a short hike north.

  By driving this route, you will expose yourself to some of the wonderful destinations along the country’s South Coast. Perhaps most notable of these, and best for a stop, is the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, which you can fully encircle for some marvellous views.

  You will also pass the great glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull. Both of these sit atop mighty, explosive volcanoes.

  Just a few kilometres further along from Seljavallalaug is another waterfall, Skógafoss. Mightily powerful, this feature should not be missed by those in the area.

   

  Seljavallalaug,

  Credit: Wikimedia, Creative Commons. Photo by pjt56.

  Ytri Tunga is a beach by a farm of the same name on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. Unlike many of the beaches in Iceland, Ytri Tunga has golden sand, rather than black.

  Seal Watching at Ytri Tunga

  Alongside Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon and the Vatnsnes Peninsula, Ytri Tunga is the most reliable place in Iceland to see seals.

  Just offshore, on some rocks protruding from the water, at least a few individuals from the local colony can be seen hauling out all throughout the year. The best time to see them, however, is in the summer months. 

  The seals that haul out here are Harbour Seals, one of the two common species found in Iceland. The other is the Grey Seal. In spite of what many think, Iceland no longer is home to walruses, although they are spotted in the Westfjords on rare occasions. Other visiting species include Hooded Seals and Ringed Seals.

  Seals and Icelanders have had an interesting relationship over the past millennium. Seals, of course, were vital to their survival, due to their meaty bodies, fat for oil, and their waterproof hides, but also appeared in folklore as mysterious and beautiful selkies. Most other Nordic countries depicted Selkies as evil, but not Iceland.

  More recently, seals have been killed for fashion and due to their impact on fisheries, as they often damage nets and equipment as they steal catches. Today, however, most Icelanders see seals as a beautiful addition to the culture of the nature rather than a pest or a pelt, and encourage visitors to enjoy viewing them.

  On this site, you can find an article about seals in Iceland.

  Getting to Ytri Tunga

  Ytri Tunga is easy to reach from Reykjavík. By driving the Ring Road north, you will eventually reach the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula. Take the road along its south side, and about halfway down, you will come across a small sign pointing to Ytri Tunga Beach.

  Here, there is a carpark, an information sign, and a small path leading to the viewing area. When watching the seals, it is important to give them space, as they can be dangerous if frightened, and to keep the noise respectfully low.

   

  Ytri Tunga Beach,

  
  The South Coast of Iceland is one of the most popular parts of the country for travellers. South Iceland is lined with countless natural wonders including cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, glaciers and black sand beaches.

  This incredible South Shore of Iceland stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east. It’s possible to incorporate a trip to The Golden Circle before heading South. This is another popular area with visitors to Iceland. Here you can see Þingvellir (or Thingvellir) National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, a volcanic crater called Kerið, and one of Iceland's biggest waterfalls; Gulfoss.

  Highlights of the South Coast of Iceland

  
  The South Coast offers an array of natural wonders that draw thousands of visitors each day.

  The whole area is geologically very young, formed during the last Ice Age by the lava flows from numerous volcanoes in the area. The lowlands are surrounded by volcanically active mountains, notably Eyjafjallajökull and Hekla. If you stop at Hveragerði, you can visit the Quake 2008 exhibition where you can witness the split in the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.

  In terms of culture in the South, it is rich and diverse. Most towns have amateur groups for theatre, poetry reading, and choir song. Community is a big part of an Icelander’s life and one of the key things that help them get through the winter months. The South was once home to the ancient bishop seat of Skálholt. Also, Iceland's most famous saga, Njal's Saga, takes place in the region.

  

  When driving the South Coast route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. These falls which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean from these beautiful cascades. Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall. 

  Skógar, which is home to Skogafoss waterfall, has a very interesting museum that discusses some of the nation’s history and culture. One of Iceland’s most famous hiking trails, Fímmvörðuháls, cuts through the area and is worth the walk if you have time.

  A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull glacier, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the glacier tongue, Sólheimajökull.

  This landscape has also been shaped by volcanic eruptions, although these were much more recent. Vast expanses of the black sand stretch from the Highlands to the sea, part of several glacial outwash plains that flood during a volcanic eruption. One such sandplain, Sólheimasandur, is home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck.

  

  The Dyrhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.

  Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, which is home to basalt columns and the Reynisdrangar rock formations. These pillars are said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun. 

  Though beautiful, this area is notorious for its dangerous sneaker waves. Even on seemingly calm and still days, visitors should keep a distance from the shoreline. There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.

  

  After passing through Vík you will cross the glacial sandplain of Skeiðarársandur before entering Vatnajökull National Park. Here you can see Vatnajokull Glacier, Iceland’s largest glacier. Many ice cave tours take place in Vatnajokull in the winter months.

  Move on to the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve in the National Park. Here you can enjoy a diversity of landscapes and terrains. The area was considered a National Park in its own right because it was so beautiful.

  Finally, you will approach the famous Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon, a deep lake that fills with icebergs as the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier slowly breaks down. Here there are plenty of options for boat tours that take you around the lagoon and up close to icebergs. A short distance from Jökulsárlón you will find the Diamond Beach, where blue icebergs wash on the black-sand beach, and another glacier lagoon called Fjallsárlón.

  

  Geography, Nature & Wildlife

  The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Ring Road (Route 1), which encircles Iceland. The area is made up of diverse landscapes; marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.

  Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Reaching several hundred metres offshore, it provides a protective factor to the lowland as ocean waves crash upon it. This results in the South Shore being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shoreline.

  Unlike most early Icelandic settlements, few of the communities in the south were based on fishing. The only town with a significant harbour in the south is Þorlákshöfn, where the ferry to the Westman Islands leaves. Some agriculture is found here, with farms nestled in the mountains, but because of the glacial floods, they are few and far between.

  

  There are, however, plenty of hot springs in the area. The most famous is the Blue Lagoon Spa which is close to Keflavik airport. The lagoon formed as a result of the overflow from a nearby power plant.

  However, there are lots of natural geothermal hot springs in more remote locations, where you can avoid the crowds and have a more natural experience. Some of the spots travellers recommend are Seljavallalaug, which is close to Skogar, and Reykjadalur, the Valley of Steam, which is close to Hveragerði.

  

  The South region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey. 

  You may be able to spot North Atlantic puffins nesting on the cliffs between May and August. In summer there are 2-3 times as many Arctic Tern as Icelanders so you are bound to spot some of them on your travels. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.  

  Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.

  In terms of sports; horse riding is popular, as is fishing, hiking, snorkelling, sightseeing and river rafting.

   

  South Coast,

  

  The Diamond Beach is a strip of black sand belonging to the greater Breiðamerkursandur glacial plain, located by Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon on the South Coast of Iceland.

  Here, the icebergs which fill Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon wash up on shore, standing dazzling and defiant in stark contrast to the black sand beach. It is, therefore, a favourite amongst photographers, nature-lovers, and wildlife-enthusiasts. Many seals call this beach home, and it is one of the best places in the country to see orcas from the shore.

  Breiðamerkursandur

  Breiðamerkursandur is a glacial outwash plain located in the municipality of Hornafjörður. The sand stretches approximately 18 kilometres along Iceland’s South Coast, more specifically from the foot of Kvíárjökull Glacier to the famed glacier lagoon Jökulsárlón, that nests by the foot of Breiðamerkurjökull Glacier.

  Both glaciers make up part of the 30 outlets of Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest ice cap and the central feature of the Vatnajökull National Park. Many of these are seen en route to the Diamond Beach as you travel along the South Coast.

  The outwash plain was formed when three of Vatnajökull’s outlet glaciers, Breiðamerkurjökull, Hrútárjökull and Fjallsjökull, flowed forward due to volcanic activity and ground the rocks of the underlying surface, creating and pushing forward the glacial sediments.

  Such sand plains are a common part of the Icelandic landscape, due to the island being volcanically active as well as boasting numerous ice caps. The terminus (the tip of a given glacier) also dug deep into the ground and left what is now the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Although now the deepest lake in all of Iceland, it only began to form in 1935.

  The glacier lagoon and Diamond Beach are fantastical sites, however, the rate of their expansion is, unfortunately, a consequence of climate change. With the rate that the glaciers are melting, there may be no ice left at either site within decades.

  Jökulsárlón Icebergs

  

  Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon is one of the most famed and visited attractions in Iceland. Floating on the lagoon are enumerable icebergs that have broken off the resident glacier, creating an ever-changing scenery of incredible allure.

  The river Jökulsá connects the lagoon to the Atlantic Ocean, meaning that these icebergs eventually drift out to sea where they are polished by the waves before floating back to the black sands of Breiðamerkursandur. The name ‘Diamond Beach’ thus comes from the white ice on the black sand appearing like gemstones or diamonds, as they often glisten in the sun and sharply contrast their jet black surroundings.  

  Safety at the Diamond Beach

  The Diamond Beach is a safe place for any responsible traveller; unlike at Reynisfjara, another South Coast black-sand-beach, sneaker waves and rip currents are not notorious for whisking unwitting tourists out to sea. However, there are still dangers to consider.

  The main one of these is the icebergs themselves. Under no circumstance should you climb upon an iceberg, due to their slippery surfaces and sharp edges.

  This is especially the case if the iceberg is at all in the water, as it could flip and trap you underneath, or else be pulled out to sea by a current with you on it.

  The risk of injury and illness in the form of hypothermia is so great that extortionate fines exist to deter any ‘rebels’ looking for a thrill-seek. These have only come about due to serious incidents, to protect not only tourists at the lagoon but guides and staff who may feel obligated to embark on a dangerous rescue if they see someone at risk.

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  Diamond Beach,

  

  Krýsuvíkurbjarg is a bird cliff on the Reykjanes Peninsula. It can be spelt Krísuvíkurbjarg, Krísuvíkurberg, or Krýsuvíkurberg.

  Location and Description of Krýsuvíkurbjarg

  Krýsuvíkurbjarg is located on the southern coastline of the Reykjanes Peninsula in south-west Iceland. It stretches for 15 kilometres (9 miles), making it one of the longest birdwatching cliffs in Europe, and at its highest stands at 40 metres (131 feet).

  To get to it from Reykjavík, follow Route 41 south, and turn left onto Route 42. Following this road will take you to Route 427, where you will find a carpark. To reach the cliffs from here, you will need to hike 130 metres (427 feet) south.

  Birdlife at Krýsuvíkurbjarg

  Krýsuvíkurbjarg is home to 60,000 individual birds in the height of summer, when migratory species come to lay their eggs. The most common species are fulmar, guillemots, razorbills, peewits and kittiwakes, and there are small numbers of puffins that nest here in summer.

  It should be noted that more puffins can be found at other locations, such as the Westman Islands, the Dýrhólaey rock arch, the islands of Akurey and Lundey, and Latrabjarg in the Westfjords.

  In winter, there are fewer birds, but gulls and a few other species still nest here.

  The best time for birdwatching, therefore, is May to September, the months considered Icelandic summer. Visiting in the rest of the year comes with more challenges, as snow covers the capark and a four-wheel-drive is required to reach it.

  

  When birdwatching, it is important to move slowly and not to make loud noises or use flash photography. You should not approach the cliff-edge too close, not only because of the sheer drop into the freezing ocean, but for the safety of the birds.

  Some species, such as puffins, burrow into the cliffs rather than nest. If you step above one of the burrows, you could break through the weakened earth and crush the eggs or pufflings within.

  Krýsuvíkurbjarg

• 5 nights of accommodation in Reykjavík (different levels available; breakfast included for Comfort and Quality levels; more detailed info below)

• Vehicle for 6 days (Toyota Aygo or similar, upgrades available)

• CDW insurance for super budget level vehicle; other levels also include SCDW and gravel protection insurances

• Detailed Itinerary with fun and practical information on the nature, history and culture of Iceland

• Hands-on travel agent to oversee your itinerary

• Taxes

• Blue Lagoon entrance (can be added during booking process)

• Optional excursions

• Meals

• Flights

• Fuel

• Warm and waterproof clothes

• Good shoes

• Swimsuit and towel

• Driver's license

See our accommodation levels below and our preferred accommodation partners under each day in the daily itinerary.

Super budget level accommodations will be arranged in hostel dorm beds. For budget and comfort levels, bookings for one person will be arranged in single rooms, and bookings for two or more people will share a twin/double or triple room(s). For quality level, odd number groups will always be allocated a single room.

Teenagers and children will be arranged in the same room with parents. If additional room(s) is needed, additional costs will incur.

Guide to Iceland will provide you with the best available accommodation at the time of your booking from our preferred partners. Please keep in mind that hotel quality in Iceland varies among locations and availability is highly limited. If our preferred partners are fully booked at the time of your booking, we will find another suitable accommodation for you of similar level.

Please note that not all locations offer quality level accommodation. Comfort level accommodation will be arranged at those particular locations, which is reflected in the quality level upgrade price.

We always do our best to accommodate special requests, which may incur additional costs. Press choose a date to find availability.

Below you can see the car rental options available for this self-drive tour. All our vehicles are new or current models. Super budget 2WD vehicles are maximum 5 years of age, and come equipped with a GPS and standard CDW insurance. Budget 2WD, Comfort 4x4 and Luxury 4x4 level vehicles are maximum two years of age, and come equipped with a GPS, CDW, GP and SCDW insurances. You can also upgrade to an automatic model.

This insurance guarantees that you can cancel the booking of this package and receive a full refund, minus the insurance cost of 5,000 ISK per person.
The cancellation must be made within a minimum of 48-hours before the listed starting time. To cancel your booking and claim your refund, simply contact our service desk by writing to info@guidetoiceland.is no later than 48-hours before departure and declare the cancellation.
Please note that this insurance only covers the full cancellation of this entire package. It does not cover cancellations of individual activities and services within the package. The cost of the Cancellation Insurance is neither refundable nor transferable.