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Breidafjordur is a fjord and a nature reserve situated between the Westfjords and the Snaefellsnes peninsula.
The fjord features countless islands, though it's estimated they might be around 3000 and has strong ebb and flow. The rock formations there, mainly basalt, belongs to Iceland’s oldest, from the tertier era. It is the only place in the country where one can find Antortorsit or moon rock (the most common type of rock on the moon). The wildlife is amazing, with cod, shrimp, shellfish, an abundance of seals along with wales and a wide range of seabirds. From Stykkisholmur one can sail to Brjanslaekur, witness the fantastic islands and enjoy shellfish fresh from the sea.
Snæfellsjökull (1446 m) is an ice-capped volcano found on the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in West Iceland.
Though many consider Snæfellsjökull to simply be a particularly impressive ice cap, it is, in fact, a 700,000-year-old glacier-capped stratovolcano. The mountain is actually called "Snæfell" (Snowy Mountain), though the “jökull” (Glacier) is often added to help distinguish it from other mountains of the same name. For the first time in recorded history, Snæfellsjökull had no snow or ice at its peak in August 2012, causing concern amongst locals that climate change is threatening the nature of the mountain.
On clear days, one can see Snæfellsjökull from Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavik, approximately 120 kilometres away over Faxa Bay, making for an impressive sight—and a tick off the bucket list if you can’t make it to travelling across the Peninsula itself. The volcano makes up just a small part of the larger Snæfellsjökull National Park.
History
Nearby villages include Hellissandur, Rif and Ólafsvík, all of which were commercial and fishing hubs throughout the peninsula’s long history of human inhabitance. Fishing took off primarily in the 13th-Century, with fishing stations being built in all areas with easy access to the open ocean.
One notable example would be the settlement of Dritvík, one of the largest fishing stations in Iceland at the time, utilising around 40–60 boats and employing between 200–600 people. Fishing in the region declined during the 19th century due to a change in Iceland’s fishing practises, though it is still an important source of livelihood for those living on the Peninsula.
Snæfellsjökull has, for centuries, been considered to be one of the world’s ancient power sites, a source of mysticism, energy and mystery for the peninsula’s superstitious population. This likely has something to do with the stratovolcanoes place in the Icelandic sagas; the feature takes a prominent role in Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, a late 14th-century saga that tells the story of Bárður, half-human-half-troll, who became the “guardian spirit of Snæfellsjökull.”
In Literature
Snæfellsjökull serves as the entrance to a fantastical subterranean world in Jules Verne’s classic 1864 novel “Journey to The Centre of The Earth.” Given its central place in the novel, Snæfellsjökull has become one of the most popular spots for visitors in Iceland and has inspired a wealth of writers, poets and artists.
Since “Journey to The Centre of The Earth”, Snæfellsjökull has appeared in the Blind Birds trilogy by Czech SF writer Ludvík Souček (partially based on Jules’ work) and in Under The Glacier, a novel by Iceland’s only Nobel laureate, Halldor Laxness.
Nearby Attractions
Along with the glacier, attractions include the two nearby basalt cliffs called Lóndrangar and the many fascinating lava formations at the beautiful Djúpalonssandur beach, such as the arch rock Gatklettur. At Djúpalonssandur, one can also test their strength just as the ancient sailors once did with the four "strength" stones, Amlóði ('Useless'), Hálfdrættingur ('Weakling'), Hálfsterkur ('Half Strength') and Fullsterkur ('Full Strength'). In the area, one can also explore the Saxhóll volcano crater and 'the singing cave' Sönghellir, which is named after the loud echoes inside.
Snæfellsnes is a large peninsula extending from West Iceland, often nicknamed ‘Iceland in Miniature’ due to its wealth and diversity of natural features.
Home to the Snæfellsjökull National Park, at the centre of which is a subglacial volcano that towers over the scenery, this peninsula is home to waterfalls, rock formations, beautiful beaches, historic villages, and an intricate folklore.
In particularly clear weather, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula can sometimes be seen from Reykjavík, making views across the water from the capital of Iceland particularly beautiful. Those with an extended stay are recommended to look into spending at least a day here.
Natural Sites of Snaefellsnes
The peninsula stretches 90 kilometres (56 miles) from West Iceland, between the Reykjanes Peninsula to the south and Westfjords to the north. A mountain range runs along it, consisting of both active and dormant volcanoes, culminating at the magnificent, ice-capped Snæfellsjökull volcano.
Starting along the south side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, you will first come to the Eldborg crater, which can be scaled for some incredible views, and the Gerðuberg basalt cliffs, where hundreds of hexagonal basalt columns are arranged with geometric precision. You will then start hugging the coast, where animal-lovers can find the Ytri-Tunga beach and its year-round seal colony.
The next site of particular natural beauty is the Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, a cleft in a huge cliff face that it is possible to climb into. A stream runs through here, so those who want to plumb its depths will get wet. Those with decent clothing, sturdy shoes and reasonable fitness, however, will be able to get quite far.
After Rauðfeldsgjá, you will come to the mighty basalt plugs of Lóndrangar. All that remains of what was once a massive crater, these two enormous pillars are not only awe-inspiring in their scale, but home to thousands of nesting seabirds.
You will then enter Snæfellsjökull National Park, which, in spite of being the smallest of the country’s three national parks, is pregnant with destinations worth visiting.
The most historic of these is Djúpalónssandur beach. Comprised of black, volcanic sands, it is best-known for the four lifting stones that remain on the beach from a bygone age. Fishermen would use these stones to mark their strength, and gage their suitability to working on the dangerous waves.
Within the National Park are also two lava caves that can be entered in summer. Songhellir is renowned for the musical qualities of its echoes, whereas Vatnshellir is favoured for its easy access and vivid colouration.
Of course, however, the highlight of this part of the Peninsula is no doubt Snæfellsjökull itself. Even if you are not ascending it on a glacier hiking tour, it is worth stopping by to marvel at.
This is particularly the case for literature enthusiasts. The adventure within the Jules Verne novel ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’ begins here, and it is the backdrop to the lesser-known novel ‘Under the Glacier’, by Nobel-Prize winning Icelander, Halldor Laxness.
On the north side of the peninsula is the haunting Berserkjahraun lava field, near the town of Bjarnarhöfn, the history of which weaves deception and murder. Most notable on this stretch, however, is the mountain Kirkjufell, often described as the most photographed mountain in Iceland.
Cultural Sites of Snaefellsnes
There are a few small and beautiful villages dotted across the peninsula, the majority of which are on the northern side, where the fishing is better. Most notable are Arnarstapi, Hellnar, Búðir, Hellissandur, Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur.
The last of these is highly popular for travellers, featuring a volcano museum and a ferry that takes you across the fascinating Breiðafjörður bay to the south border of the Westfjords.
Other museums of note are the Maritime Museum at Hellissandur, the regional museum at Ólafsvík, and, last but not least, the shark museum at Bjarnarhöfn, where you can taste the revolting Icelandic ‘delicacy’, hakarl, or fermented shark.
Kirkjufell (“Church Mountain”) is a distinctly shaped mountain found on the north coast of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula, only a short distance away from the town of Grundarfjörður.
Kirkjufell takes it’s name from its resemblance to a church steeple, sharpened at the top with long curved sides. From other angles, the mountain can resemble a witch’s hat or even a freshly scooped ice cream.
Photography at Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall
Peaking at 463 m, Kirkjufell holds the honour of being Iceland’s most photographed mountain. Throughout the centuries, Kirkjufell’s striking slopes have acted as a visual landmark for seafarers and travellers.
Walking distance from Kirkjufell, one can find the photogenic waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss (“Church Mountain Falls”), an excellent subject for photographers who can easily frame the mountain in the background. Despite its relatively diminutive height, Kirkjufellsfoss’ three-pronged falls make the waterfall particularly stunning, even for Iceland.
At the base of the mountain, visitors will also be able to find a lake; on calm and clear days, this lake reflects a perfect mirror image of Kirkjufell, only adding to the fantastic photo opportunities around this area. On top of that, the colours of Kirkjufell change with the passing seasons; the summer see it a lush green, full of life, whilst the winter months scar the mountain’s face with a mask of barren brown and white.
Fans of the HBO series Game of Thrones will recognise Kirkjufell as a shooting location from Season 7 of Game of Thrones. The mountain is showcased from the scenes ‘beyond the wall’ when Jon Snow, The Hound and Jorah Mormont, among others, brave the wilderness in hopes of catching an undead wight. Having seen it in a vision, The Hound acknowledges Kirkjufell as “[...] the mountain like an arrowhead.” Even the Games of Thrones producers can’t resist capturing the mountain on celluloid!
Hiking Kirkjufell
There is a fairly steep trail to the top of Kirkjufell, from where there are magnificent panoramas of the surrounding fields, coastlines and rivers. The mountain takes roughly an hour and a half to ascend, and one and a half hours back to the bottom.
Alongside this mountain-track is a steeper route to the peak which involves two points where one needs to rope-climb. This route should never be attempted in the winter, and never without a certified guide. Given the steep elevation, it is highly recommended that you bring a sturdy pair of hiking boots, snacks and water to the trail.
Getting to Kirkjufell
Kirkjufell is extremely close to Grundarfjörður, a small town on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, approximately two hours drive from Iceland's capital city, Reykjavik. From Grundarfjörður, one travels ten minutes west down Route Snaefellsnesvegur 54 to the base of Kirkjufell. Visitors have plenty of parking space to choose from, all free of charge.
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