Sólheimajökull is an outlet glacier of the mighty icecap of Mýrdalsjökull on the South Coast of Iceland. It is one of the most easily accessible glaciers to reach from Reykjavík, just 158 kilometres (98 miles) away.
For those who are based in Reykjavík, it is by far the favourite spot on which to take guided glacier walks, competing nationally for popularity only with Svínafellsjökull in the south-east.
Geography of Solheimajokull
About eight kilometres long and two kilometres wide (five miles long and just over a mile wide), Sólheimajökull is an impressive feature. Due to the way it descends from Mýrdalsjökull, however, without a clear distinction between the two, it appears much bigger.
Mýrdalsjökull itself has many other outlet glaciers; overall, it is the fourth largest ice cap in Iceland. Beneath its thick surface is one of the country’s most infamous volcanoes, Katla.
The nearby Eyjafjallajökull erupted in 2010 causing widespread havoc at European airports. Throughout history, eruptions in Eyjafjallajökull mean that Katla will also erupt, and so the volcano is due to go off soon. However, volcanoes and all seismic activity in Iceland is highly monitored, meaning that it is perfectly safe to travel around the area and even take an ice cave tour in the glacier above.
Sadly, like all the glaciers in Iceland bar one, Sólheimajökull is shrinking rapidly. A glacier lagoon at its base reveals how quickly it is receding: the length of an Olympic swimming pool every year. It seems like this change is already an irreversible consequence of climate change, and it may be gone within decades.
Visitors to Iceland should, therefore, make sure they witness the ice-cap while it is still with us.
Sólheimajökull has several distinctive traits that separate it from other glaciers. Firstly, it is incredibly easy to find, laying just off of the Ring Road that encircles Iceland. Secondly, it is not surrounded by tall mountains, meaning those who ascend it can attain incredible views of the South Coast. Thirdly, it is home to many walls of ice that can be climbed up with ice axes on certain tours.
There are also crevasses that snake across the surface, spectacular ice ridges and formations, and a vivid colouration that dances between a gleaming white, electric blue, and ash black. Occasionally, you will even find an ice cave, though these can never be guaranteed.
A river runs from the meltwater of the glacier tongue, called the Jökulsá á Sólheimasandi. This river runs through a glacial outwash plain - otherwise known as a black-sand-desert - of Sólheimasandur to the nearby ocean.
Tours on Solheimajokull
Many day tours run from Reykjavík to Sólheimajökull, for glacier hikes or as part of a greater South Coast tour.
Greater South Coast tours include visits to other features, such as the incredible waterfalls of Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss, the black sand beach Reynisfjara, and some even reach Vatnajökull National Park and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.
Hidden crevasses and ice caves, slippery surfaces, and the threat of rock- or ice-falls all pose dangers on glacier hikes, but glacier guides have to pass several training courses to deal with these eventualities, making the activity quite safe for those in a fit state of health.
All guests are equipped with helmets, ice axes, and crampons, and should arrive wearing warm clothes and sturdy hiking boots.
It is forbidden to ascend glaciers without the correct equipment or training, for your safety and the safety of others. There have been injuries and deaths on Sólheimajökull before, and glacier guides have had to risk their lives to rescue those who flouted the rules.
Skaftafell is a nature reserve located in Vatnajökull National Park in the south-east of Iceland. It is an oasis of this nation’s diverse landscapes and features, so beautiful it was once a national park in its own right.
Nature of Skaftafell
Skaftafell is notable for its rich flora, growing between sands and glaciers, and for its amazing, contrasting scenery. Visitors will find a wealth of natural attractions, from cascading waterfalls to glacier lagoons, geological formations to black sand deserts.
The rugged region is known for its fantastic photo opportunities, with many awe-inspiring panoramic views.
Like many areas along the South Coast of Iceland, Skaftafell Nature Reserve is known for its glorious hiking trails, often called a ‘hiking paradise’. Unlike in the Highlands, where hikes tend to go on for multiple days, here there are far shorter. There are easy treks that lead to diverse sites such as the waterfall Svartifoss which is surrounded by bizarre and beautiful basalt columns, as well as to glaciers such as Svínafellsjökull.
With a qualified guide, it is an excellent region to try your hand at a spot of either ice climbing or glacier hiking; both activities are two of the most authentically Icelandic experiences you can partake in whilst in the country.
The nature reserve is also the perfect base camp for those seeking to climb Iceland’s highest peak, Hvannadalshnúkur, or for those wishing to spend a number of days exploring the region's attractions, including Vatnajökull glacier, Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon and the nearby Diamond Beach.
Getting to Skaftafell
Just off the Ring Road in the south-east of the country, it takes approximately four hours to reach Skaftafell from Reykjavík. The South Coast, however, is one of the regions most popular sightseeing routes, so the journey usually takes much longer, as visitors will want to make several stops along the way.
Examples of the beautiful natural features found en route to Skaftafell include the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, the glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull, the black sand deserts of Sólheimasandur and Skeiðarársandur, as well as the dramatic coastal rock formations at Dyrhólaey and Reynisdrangar. The villages of Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur are also along Route 1 if you need to stop and refuel on refreshments.
Those who have made it all the way to Skaftafell will want to be sure to check out the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, a giant lake filled with enormous icebergs breaking from a glacial tongue, and slowly drifting to sea. At the nearby Diamond Beach you can watch them wash upon the shore, and in both the sea and lagoon are many seals which can routinely be spotted.
Skaftafell Visitor Center
You will find a Visitors Centre at Skaftafell which acts as the main information and meeting point for tour operators and independent travellers. At the Skaftafell Visitor Centre, you will find answers to virtually any questions you might have about the greater Skaftafell area, including its history and geology. The Visitors Centre also contains information about nearby hiking trails, recreational options and accommodation.
There is also a hotel at Skaftafell, though it tends to book up very early. Luckily, the south-east is dotted with hotels, cabins and cottages in which you can stay, and the area is not far from the settlements of Höfn or Kirkjubæklaustur.
The South Coast of Iceland is one of the most popular parts of the country for travellers. South Iceland is lined with countless natural wonders including cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, glaciers and black sand beaches.
This incredible South Shore of Iceland stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east. It’s possible to incorporate a trip to The Golden Circle before heading South. This is another popular area with visitors to Iceland. Here you can see Þingvellir (or Thingvellir) National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, a volcanic crater called Kerið, and one of Iceland's biggest waterfalls; Gulfoss.
Highlights of the South Coast of Iceland
The South Coast offers an array of natural wonders that draw thousands of visitors each day.
The whole area is geologically very young, formed during the last Ice Age by the lava flows from numerous volcanoes in the area. The lowlands are surrounded by volcanically active mountains, notably Eyjafjallajökull and Hekla. If you stop at Hveragerði, you can visit the Quake 2008 exhibition where you can witness the split in the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.
In terms of culture in the South, it is rich and diverse. Most towns have amateur groups for theatre, poetry reading, and choir song. Community is a big part of an Icelander’s life and one of the key things that help them get through the winter months. The South was once home to the ancient bishop seat of Skálholt. Also, Iceland's most famous saga, Njal's Saga, takes place in the region.
When driving the South Coast route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. These falls which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean from these beautiful cascades. Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall.
Skógar, which is home to Skogafoss waterfall, has a very interesting museum that discusses some of the nation’s history and culture. One of Iceland’s most famous hiking trails, Fímmvörðuháls, cuts through the area and is worth the walk if you have time.
A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull glacier, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the glacier tongue, Sólheimajökull.
This landscape has also been shaped by volcanic eruptions, although these were much more recent. Vast expanses of the black sand stretch from the Highlands to the sea, part of several glacial outwash plains that flood during a volcanic eruption. One such sandplain, Sólheimasandur, is home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck.
The Dyrhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.
Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, which is home to basalt columns and the Reynisdrangar rock formations. These pillars are said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun.
Though beautiful, this area is notorious for its dangerous sneaker waves. Even on seemingly calm and still days, visitors should keep a distance from the shoreline. There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.
After passing through Vík you will cross the glacial sandplain of Skeiðarársandur before entering Vatnajökull National Park. Here you can see Vatnajokull Glacier, Iceland’s largest glacier. Many ice cave tours take place in Vatnajokull in the winter months.
Move on to the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve in the National Park. Here you can enjoy a diversity of landscapes and terrains. The area was considered a National Park in its own right because it was so beautiful.
Finally, you will approach the famous Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon, a deep lake that fills with icebergs as the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier slowly breaks down. Here there are plenty of options for boat tours that take you around the lagoon and up close to icebergs. A short distance from Jökulsárlón you will find the Diamond Beach, where blue icebergs wash on the black-sand beach, and another glacier lagoon called Fjallsárlón.
Geography, Nature & Wildlife
The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Ring Road (Route 1), which encircles Iceland. The area is made up of diverse landscapes; marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.
Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Reaching several hundred metres offshore, it provides a protective factor to the lowland as ocean waves crash upon it. This results in the South Shore being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shoreline.
Unlike most early Icelandic settlements, few of the communities in the south were based on fishing. The only town with a significant harbour in the south is Þorlákshöfn, where the ferry to the Westman Islands leaves. Some agriculture is found here, with farms nestled in the mountains, but because of the glacial floods, they are few and far between.
There are, however, plenty of hot springs in the area. The most famous is the Blue Lagoon Spa which is close to Keflavik airport. The lagoon formed as a result of the overflow from a nearby power plant.
However, there are lots of natural geothermal hot springs in more remote locations, where you can avoid the crowds and have a more natural experience. Some of the spots travellers recommend are Seljavallalaug, which is close to Skogar, and Reykjadalur, the Valley of Steam, which is close to Hveragerði.
The South region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey.
You may be able to spot North Atlantic puffins nesting on the cliffs between May and August. In summer there are 2-3 times as many Arctic Tern as Icelanders so you are bound to spot some of them on your travels. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.
Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.
In terms of sports; horse riding is popular, as is fishing, hiking, snorkelling, sightseeing and river rafting.
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