Highlights: 
Geysir is a famous hot spring in the geothermal area of Haukadalur Valley, found in South Iceland.
Making up just one of the attractions along the world-renowned Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside Þingvellir National Park and the mighty Gullfoss waterfall, Geysir is most well-known for having lent its name to geysers all around the world.
Geography
Though Geysir itself is rarely active these days, Haukadalur Valley boasts a plethora of hot springs and geysers, including the powerful Strokkur, Smiður and Litli-Strokkur.
Strokkur is, arguably, the country’s most famous hot spring, shooting vast jets of boiling water from 20m (65ft) up to 40m (130ft) high. Don’t worry about missing this incredible spectacle of nature, as Strokkur erupts every five to ten minutes; just make sure to have your camera ready.
Geysir is much larger, but years can go by between eruptions here; it is currently in an inactive phase. When it does erupt, the water can shoot up in the air as high as 70 metres (230 ft).
Just five minutes walk north of Geysir are a wealth of fumaroles emanating steam and gas into the cool Icelandic air. Aside from watching the hypnotic pillars of steam, you will also be able to observe the yellow sulphuric stains along the fumaroles themselves, a result of the earth’s minerals crystallising around the rock bed.
At the southern part of the valley, Þykkuhverir, you’ll find various bubbling mud pots. These spooky brown cauldrons are actually fumaroles that boil up through the loose ground; after a dry spell, these mud pools are likely to transform into a hardened fumarole.
Nearby Attractions
About 2km (1 mile) from Geysir is a preserved natural pool called Kúalaug. It has room for three to five people at a time, but care should be taken, as the area around the pool is very delicate. The temperature is 39-43°C (102-109°F), depending on where you are positioned in the pool.
The water is slightly muddy, as the pool is built on soil, and the bottom is slippery due to algae, so caution is advised when relaxing here.
Haukadalur has also seen a rise in reforestation in recent times thanks to continued experiments and research in the area. Today, Haukadalsskógur is one of the largest forests in South Iceland, boasting accessible walking paths (also for wheelchair users), fascinating vegetation and The Tree Museum, built in the memory of forester Gunnar Freysteinsson.
History
Haukadalur has been inhabited and used as a church site since the Age of Settlement. Given its historic value, it should be noted that scholar, Ari “The Wise“ Þórgilsson, grew up here; it was also where the first pastoral school in Iceland was built.
The current wooden church was last rebuilt in 1938 but its architectural style dates back to 1842, making it well worth a visit to see how Iceland looked before industrialisation.
For accommodation, Hotel Gullfoss is approximately 7 km from the Geysir area, and closer still is Hotel Geysir on the other side of the road from the attraction, where you will also find a restaurant, café and a souvenir shop.
Gullfoss (translated to ‘Golden Falls’) is one of Iceland’s most iconic and beloved waterfalls, found in the Hvítá river canyon in south Iceland.
The water in Hvítá river travels from the glacier Langjökull, before cascading 32m (105ft) down Gullfoss’ two stages in a dramatic display of nature’s raw power. This incredible site is seen by most visitors, as it is on the Golden Circle sightseeing route.
Because of the waterfall’s two stages, Gullfoss should actually be thought of as two separate features. The first, shorter cascade is 11m (36ft), whilst the second drop is 21m (69ft). The canyon walls on both sides of the waterfall reach heights of up to 70m (230ft), descending into the great Gullfossgjúfur canyon. Geologists believe that this canyon was formed by glacial outbursts at the beginning of the last age.
In the summer, approximately 140 cubic metres (459 cubic feet) of water surges down the waterfall every second, whilst in winter that number drops to around 109 cubic metres (358 cubic feet). With such energy, visitors should not be surprised to find themselves drenched by the waterfall’s mighty spray.
As mentioned, Gullfoss makes up a part of the highly popular Golden Circle sightseeing route, alongside Geysir geothermal area and Þingvellir National Park. Many Golden Circle tours include additional activities that can be taken from Gullfoss, such as ascending the mighty nearby glacier Langjökull and entering its ice tunnels, or snowmobiling along its gleaming surface.
History
In the early days of the last century, Gullfoss was at the centre of much controversy regarding foreign investors and their desire to profit off Iceland’s nature. In the year 1907, an English businessman, Howell, sought to utilise the waterfall’s energy and harboured ambitions to use its energy to fuel a hydroelectric plant.
At the time, Gullfoss was owned by a farmer named Tómas Tómasson. Tómas declined Howell’s offer to purchase the land, stating famously “I will not sell my friend!” He would, however, go on to lease Howell the land without the knowledge of a loophole that would allow him to proceed with his plans.
It was Tómas’ daughter, Sigríður Tómasdóttir, who would lead the charge to stop Howell’s ambitions. Having grown up on her father’s sheep farm where she helped pave the first road to Gullfoss, she sought to get the contract nullified, hurriedly saving her own money to hire a lawyer.
The ensuing legal battle was an uphill struggle; the case continued for years, forcing Sigríður to travel many times by foot to Reykjavík, a distance of over 100 kilometres (62 miles). Circumstances became so difficult that Sigríður threatened to throw herself into the waterfall if any construction began.
Her tenacity, however, resulted in success. In 1929, Howell’s withdrew from the lease, unable to keep up with the costs and difficulties of his plan. The waterfall fell back into the hands of the Icelandic people.
Today, Sigríður is recognised for her perseverance in protecting Gullfoss and is often hailed as Iceland’s first environmentalist. As such, she is one of the most famous figures in Iceland’s history. Her contribution is forever marked in stone; a plaque detailing her plight sits at the top of Gullfoss.
Interestingly, the lawyer who assisted Sigríður, Sveinn Björnsson, went on to go down in history too; he become the first president of Iceland in 1944.
Restaurant / Cafe
Besides Gullfoss, visitors can enjoy the views from Gullfoss Cafe, a locally run delicatessen that serves a wide variety of refreshments and meals. The menu has options to tantalise everyone’s taste buds: hot soups, sandwiches, salads and cakes. There is also a shop on site where visitors’ can browse and purchase traditional Icelandic souvenirs.
Þingvellir National Park is the only UNESCO World Heritage site on the Icelandic mainland and one of the three stops on the world famous Golden Circle sightseeing tour, alongside the Haukadalur Geothermal Valley (Geysir) and Gullfoss Waterfall. Just to the south of the park is Þingvallavatn, Iceland’s largest natural lake.
Geography
The first thing that visitors to the National Park notice is its sheer aesthetic beauty; dried magma fields, covered in Icelandic moss, sit carved by glacial springs and surrounded by a bowl of ancient mountain peaks.
Two of the greatest attractions in the park are the exposed North American and Eurasian tectonic plates; it is one of the only regions in the world where you can see geology such as this on land.
Visitors are encouraged to walk along the North American tectonic plate, where they can read more about the area’s fascinating formation and history, before descending into the valley below.
History
Þingvellir can be anglicised to ‘Fields of Parliament’, a nod to the area’s fascinating history and relevance to Icelandic culture. It is here, after all, that the world’s first democratically elected parliament that remains functioning, the Althing, was formed in 930 AD.
It may seem unlikely that Vikings would want to be under such an uncombative government, but the thirty or so clans that lived in Iceland at the time sought to prosper in their harsh new environment.
The first gathering was such a success that the meetings became annual, and it became a place where disputes were settled, criminals were tried, and laws to the benefit of all were laid down.
This saw the birth of the Icelandic Commonwealth, a time of independence and freedom for the Icelandic people before they became constituents of the Norwegian monarchy. Sessions would continue to be held at Þingvellir until 1798.
Though the parliament was removed by the Danish at this time, it returned 1845 to Reykjavík.
Another major reason as to why Þingvellir is considered so important to Icelanders is the fact that this is where the decision was made to abandon the belief of Paganism and the Norse Gods; the people adopted Christianity in 1000 AD under threat of invasion from Norway.
This turning point in history was left to the pagan lawspeaker, Þorgeir Þorkelsson, who rested on the choice for one day and one night before reappearing to share his decision.
To symbolise the country’s change, he threw idols of his old deities into the northern waterfall Goðafoss, the name of which translates to ‘Waterfall of the Gods’.
Silfra Fissure
Þingvellir is one of the most widely visited attractions in Iceland, in large part due to the fact that it is home to the glacial spring, Silfra fissure, one of the top ten sites in the world for snorkellers and scuba divers.
Silfra (meaning ‘Silver’) is a submerged ravine within the park, boasting visibility of up to 100 metres (328 feet) and a temperature just above freezing. Participants in these tours will be attired at the Silfra carpark in neoprene hoodies and gloves, as well as an undersuit and drysuit for thermal protection.
The mighty Langjokull (“The Long Glacier“), in the midwest highlands is the second-largest glacier in Iceland, at 935 km2. For jeep and snowmobile trips, Langjokull is the most popular glacier in Iceland and skiing and hiking is possible as well. We stress that under no circumstances should one travel alone on Langjokull, as there are many cracks in the glacier. Experience of the area, whether that of yourself or of those traveling with you is all important.
Highland tracks
Two main highland tracks, connecting the north and the south, lie alongside the glacier, Kaldidalur road and Kjalvegur (a.k.a. Kjolur road). The Kaldidalur road stretches from Thingvellir northwards to Husafell (in Borgarfjordur district), between Langjokull and Ok shield volcano. Kjalvegur lies east of Langjokull and west of Hofsjokull glacier, starting near the famous Gullfoss waterfall to the south and the Svartakvisl stream by the Hveravellir geothermal area to the north.
The landscape of Langjokull
Langjokull is about 50 km long and 15-20 km wide. The volume of the glacier is 195 km3 and the ice is around 580 m thick. The glacier reaches its highest point at the northernmost part of the glacier, which is called Baldjokull, rising around 1450 m above sea level.
Counting west and southwards from there, outlets extending from the main glacier are Thristapajokull, Flosajokull, Geitalandsjokull, Flosajokull, Geitlandsjokull and West- and East Hagafellsjokull furthest south, separated by Mt. Hagafell. On the eastside from north to south are Leidarjokull, Kirkjujokull, Nordurjokull, and Sudurjokull.
The glacier lies over a massif of hyaloclastite mountains that rise highest in the south and the east. The tops of these mountains can be seen in certain places on the glaciers. To the northeast are Hyrningur (1320 m), Peturshorn (1358) m), Fjallkirkja (1248 m) and Thursaborg (1315 m), a mighty series of immense rock pillars rising high to the sky. In the southern part of Langjokull, between Lonsjokull and Vestri-Hagafellsjokulll is the 995 high Klakkur.
Into the glacier
Deep within Langjokull lies a man-made ice tunnel, a true spectacle for any visitor passing by the glacier. This daring vision began in 2010, in the minds of Baldvin Einarsson and Hallgrimur Orn Arngrímsson. Designed and constructed by geophysicist and presidential candidate, Ari Trausti Gudmundsson, dreams of an ice tunnel beneath the glacier soon became a reality. Guests traverse beneath Langjokull's thick ice sheet, experiencing the blue ice within, and gaining an insight into the glacier's beauty inside and out. The Ice Tunnel Tour is available inside the glacier all year round.
Notable nearby mountains
The main mountains that lie close to Langjokull to the north are Krakur and the Burfjoll mountain range, slightly eastwards. East of Baldjokull are Hafjall and the Thjofadalafjoll mountain range. Hrutfell with the Hrutfellsjokull glacier cap (1396 m) lies east of Fjallkirkja and is the most impressive mountain of the Kjolur area, along with Kjalfell (1008 m), further northeast.
On the south eastern side of Langjokull, between the outlets Nordurjokull and Sudurjokull lies Mt. Skridufell (1235 m) and south of Sudurjokull is the shield volcano Skalpanes. Further east, i.e. south of Hvitarvatn is the 1204 m high Blafell and south of Skalpanes is the impressive palagonitic mountain range Jarlhettur. Among the most prominent mountains south of the Langjokull glacier is Hlodufell at 1186 meters and the Skjaldbreidur shield volcano further east.
Among the most prominent mountains to the west of Langjokull are Hafrafell, south of Eiriksjokull, North- and South Hadegisfell, Ok volcano, Prestahnukur volcano, and Stora- and Litla Bjornsfell.
Nearby glaciers
Glaciers located near to Langjokull are Eiriksjokull, to the west, the highest mountain of West Iceland, and Thorisjokull, further southwest. Hrutfellsjokull lies on the east side of Langjokull.
Between Thorisjokull and Geitlandsjokull is a valley called Thorisdalur. Along with stunning views it features prominently in Icelandic folk tales and the outlaw Grettir the strong of Grettis saga fame is further reported to have resided there for one winter.
Glacier-fed rivers & lakes
Two glacier rivers, both bearing the name of Hvita (‘White River’) trace their sources to Langjokull. The first is the mighty Hvita in Arnessysla county, home to Iceland‘s most famous waterfall, Gullfoss, the beautiful Bruarhlod canyon and one of Iceland‘s most popular rafting rivers. The source of this river is Hvitarvatn lake, east of Langjokull. The outlet Nordurjokull reaches the lake and lends it a distinctly glacial colour. Sudurjokull used to reach it as well but has retreated in recent times.
The other Hvita glacier river, in Borgarfjordur, also has its source in the area, by Eiriksjokull glacier. In this river are the beautiful waterfalls Hraunfossar and Barnafoss. Indeed, many of the hot springs in Borgarfjordur receive ground water from Langjokull. Sub-surface water also flows south to Lake Thingvallavatn, reappearing in springs in and around the lake. A few rivers flowing north to Hunafloi bay also have their sources there.
To the south, Eystri-Hagafellsjokull feeds a lake called Hagavatn and several smaller river flow from there to lake Sandvatn. In turn, rivers flow from this lake to two major rivers i.e. Hvita in Arnessysla & Tungufljot. Tungufljot later joins up with Hvita and Hvita itself merges with Sogid river as Olfusa and this river then flows towards the sea.
Volcanism
There are at least two active volcanic systems under Langjokull glacier, whose calderas are visible from the air. The best known of these is the geothermal area of Hveravellir, east of Baldjokull. Also to the east lies the Kjalhraun lava field, which flowed about 7800 years ago.
To the northwest of the glacier is another system that produced the vast Hallmundarhraun lava field, through which Hvita in Borgarfjordur runs, with its stunning falls. Also in the area is Iceland‘s longest lava cave, the fascinating Surtshellir.
Southwest of Langjokull is the Presthnukur lava field, its fissures extending under Langjokull. South of the glacier is the Lambahraun lava field and further east, i.e. south of Thorisjokull, lies the Skjaldbreidarhraun lava field and the Skjaldbreidur shield volcano.
Compared to other regions in Iceland, the area is considered relatively calm, with only 32 eruptions in the last 10.000 years.
Global warming
Langjokull is shrinking fast and concerns have been raised about the glacier due to the effect of global warming. Some researchers feared that if climate change continues at its current rate the glacier may be gone in about 150 years.
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