14 Day Photography Workshop | Ring Road in the Winter with Ice Cave

North Iceland is a beautiful region, hosting some of the best attractions on the island. 

Home to the Lake Mývatn region, the town of Akureyri (otherwise known as the 'Capital of the North'), the whale-watching hot-spot of Húsavík and the northern parts of Vatnajökull National Park, the North attracts visitors throughout the year.

It is divided by fjords and mountain ranges into many beautiful regions.

Eyjafjordur

Within the bay of Eyjafjörður is Akureyri, a town of 17,000 inhabitants. It is the largest settlement outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area.

It is easy to reach via the Ring Road, and many cruise ships land in the port of the town.

The older part of Akureyri is particularly worth a stroll, as it contains many historic buildings. The town is also home to many interesting museums, galleries, and the world’s northernmost botanical gardens.

If you like skiing or snowboarding, one of the best skiing sites in the country is located nearby.

Siglufjordur

Siglufjörður straddles the border of Eyjafjörður and Skagafjörður and is most famously home to a charming settlement of the same name.

Other than its natural beauty, with huge cliffs bordering the town, Siglufjörður is renowned for its fascinating museums.

There is a folk music museum, which comes alive during an annual festival, and the Herring Era Museum. The latter is the only Icelandic museum to win an international award and is much more interesting than it sounds; it explains how Iceland managed to survive a millennium in such harsh climes by relying on the seas.

The Vatnsnes Peninsula

The Vatnsnes Peninsula gets its fame for two reasons. Firstly, it is the best seal-watching location in the whole country, with colonies hauling out throughout the year. In the town of Hvammstangi, you can visit the Icelandic Seal Centre to learn more about these animals.

It is also famous for hosting the coastal rock formation of Hvítserkur. This bizarre feature is said to be a troll frozen by the light of the morning sun, but to most, it appears to be more like an elephant drinking from the ocean.

Thingeyjarsysla 

Þingeyjarsýsla county is home to many incredible sites, particularly due to the fact that the Lake Mývatn region is nestled within it. This beautiful area is renowned for its lava formations, pseudocraters and rich birdlife.

Near Mývatn is the impressive lava field Dimmuborgir, which was featured in the Game of Thrones series. There is also the incredible waterfall Goðafoss, a beautiful feature between Lake Mývatn itself and Akureyri.

Húsavík is a nearby town, considered the whale watching capital of Europe. In summer, many operators see Humpback Whales every time they leave the port.

The Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon is home to some of Iceland's most beloved natural attractions; the river Jökulsá á Fjöllum runs through it and holds several waterfalls including Europe's most powerful, Dettifoss. Nearby to here is the spectacular, horseshoe-shaped Ásbyrgi canyon.  

Grimsey

Far north, straddling the Arctic Circle is Grímsey island, the northernmost inhabited territory of Iceland, with a population of about 100 people. It is renowned for its fishing, its rich vegetation and birdlife, particularly puffins.

The Icelandic Highlands cover the majority of the country and many of Iceland’s impressive natural attractions can be found here. Away from crowds, noise and bustle, the Highlands offer silence, serenity, peace and extreme natural beauty.

A favourite amongst hikers and photographers, the Highlands are accessible from June to September.

The Central Highlands

The Central Highlands cover a vast area, at an altitude of over 500 metres (1640 feet), with numerous mountains reaching heights between 1,000 and 2,000 metres (3,281 and 6562 feet). Most of these higher mountains are covered by glaciers.

The tallest mountain in the country is located in the Highlands, beneath Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull. Hvannadalshnúkur stands at an incredible 2,109 metres (6,919 feet) tall and can be reached on some helicopter tours. Another notable peak is Bárðarbunga, a sub-glacial volcano in northwest Vatnajökull that stands at 2,000 metres.

Vatnajökull is the greatest of the three largest glaciers in the country, all of which are in the Central Highlands; the others are Hofsjökull in the centre of Iceland and Langjökull, west of Hofsjökull.

Various highlands paths lie between the glaciers. These usually open in June, but late snows have been known to push the opening to July. One of the major routes is Kjölur, which connects the south and north of Iceland. It is located between Hofsjökull and Langjökull and passes through a region of rhyolite mountains and geothermal oases.

Sprengisandur, is another noteworthy path connecting the south and north, and it is located between Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull.

Kaldidalur is also a significant highland road stretching west of Langjökull, from Þingvellir towards the Borgarfjörður district.

Always remember that the natural environment that makes up Iceland's Highlands is as delicate as it is enchanting. The slightest damage inflicted upon small areas can cause erosion and irreversible landscape wounds that can easily spread over large areas. Consequently, when travelling in the Highlands visitors must at all times uphold responsible travel etiquette.

Driving off-road and designated paths is strictly forbidden and punishable by heavy fines. The moss is delicate and should not be walked or camped on, let alone removed, and fishing is heavily regulated.

The South Highlands

Almost all the mountains south of the glaciers are tuff mountains, formed during the Ice Age. Volcanic activity is confined to tuff areas of the country and the southern Highlands are home to some of Iceland's most active volcanoes: Hekla, Eyjafjallajökull and Katla, which sits under Mýrdalsjökull, Iceland’s fourth largest glacier

Eyjafjallajökull is the most famous of these volcanoes. When it erupted in 2010, it caused major disruption to air travel across Europe, and widespread confusion to newsreaders everywhere as they tried to pronounce it; it was thus nicknamed to E11.

The South Highlands is also home to Landmannalaugar, one of the country's best hiking and hot spring bathing sites.

Northeast, Central-North and Northwest Highlands

In the northeast of the Highlands are the Lakagígar Craters the famous subglacial lake and volcano, Grímsvötn, and the glacier Öræfajökull. North of Vatnajökull, the best-known volcanoes are Askja and Krafla.

Also in this area is the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon, which holds the most powerful waterfall in Europe, Dettifoss.

The northwest and central-north Highlands consist of ancient basalt formations, similar to the mountains that comprise the Eastfjords.

Highland Oases

There are a few oases in the highlands that have unique vegetation and wildlife. The most important of these are Þjórsárver, Nýidalur/Jökuldalur, Herðubreiðarlindir and Eyjabakkar. The pink-footed goose has its main nesting places at Þjórsárver and Eyjabakkar. Þjórsárver was designated as a Ramsar site in 1990.

Wild reindeer reside in the east Highlands; this is the only place they can be seen. Initially brought over for farming, the industry never took out and they have roamed free in their herds since.

Reykjavík is the capital of Iceland and the northernmost capital of any sovereign state in the world.

Despite a small population (approximately 120,000, with just over 200,000 in the Greater Reykjavík area), it is a vibrant city that draws an ever increasing number of visitors every year. It is the financial, cultural and political centre of Iceland, and has a reputation of being one of the cleanest and safest cities in the world.

Geography

The city of Reykjavík is located in southwest Iceland by Faxaflói Bay. Throughout the ages, the landscape has been shaped by glaciers, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and the area is geothermal; after all, its name translates to ‘Smoky Bay’.

Much of the current city area was subglacial during the Ice Age, with the glacier reaching as far as the Álftanes peninsula, while other areas lay under the sea.  After the end of the Ice Age, the land rose as the glaciers drifted away, and it began to take on its present form.

The coastline of Reykjavík is set with peninsulas, coves, straits and islands, most notably the island of Viðey, and seabirds and whales frequent the shores. The mountain ring as seen from the shore is particularly beautiful.

Mount Esjan is the highest mountain in the vicinity of Reykjavík and the most distinctive feature of the coastline. This majestic summit is also highly popular amongst hikers and climbers. Other notable mountains that can be seen from the seaside are Akrafjall and Skarðsheiði.

On clear days, one may even see as far to the legendary Snæfellsjökull glacier, at the end of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

The largest river to run through the city is Elliðaá in Elliðaárdalur valley, which is also one of Iceland’s best rivers for salmon fishing.

Transportation

There are no trains or trams in Iceland, but most people travel by car. The city also operates a bus system. There are two major harbours in town, the old harbour in the centre and Sundahöfn in the east.

The domestic Reykjavík Airport is located at Vatnsmýrin, not far from the city centre and close to the hill Öskjuhlíð and the restaurant, vantage point and exhibition centre Perlan. The international Keflavík Airport at Miðnesheiði heath then lies around 50 kilometres (31 miles) from the city.

Cars, jeeps and bicycles can be readily rented in the city and many organized tours are also being offered. It is, however, quite easy to walk between the major sites.

What to See & Do in Reykjavik

The local arts scene is strong in Iceland, with annual events and festivals, many of artists from which have hit the international stage.

Major events taking place in Reykjavík include Iceland Airwaves, Reykjavík Pride, RIFF (The Reykjavík International Film Festival), The Reykjavík Literature Festival, Culture Night, the Reykjavík Arts Festival, Food & Fun, the Reykjavík Fashion Festival and the Sónar music festival.

Amongst the famous people from Reykjavík are musicians like Björk Guðmundsdóttir and Sigur Rós, and writers Halldór Laxness (born on the main street, Laugavegur) and Arnaldur Indriðason.

Those eager to soak up the local culture should visit the city’s many museums, exhibitions and galleries, and check out live music at the cafés, bars, and concert venues dotted around. You could look at the programmes of what’s on at the Harpa music hall or the theatres, or else plan a few hours at the lighthouse at Grótta, the shopping street of Laugavegur, or the old harbour and the flea market.

You could even book a bird- and whale watching tour or a visit to Viðey island. There are a lot of things to do and the possibilities are endless.

Make sure to visit the public square of Austurvöllur, one of the city’s most popular gathering places, where you’ll also find the national parliament, the Alþingi, as well as the state church, a statue of independence hero Jón Sigurðsson, cafés, bars and restaurants.

Austurvöllur was central in the protests following the banking collapse of 2008, along with Lækjargata, home to the House of Government. You are also not likely to miss the great church of Hallgrímskirkja that towers over the city from the hill of Skólavörðuholt, from which you’ll get a great view of the city.

Try a walk by the city pond, Tjörnin, to greet the many birds that frequent the area and to visit the city hall, stationed by its banks. A beautiful park lies by the pond, ideal for a nice walk, and sometimes concerts get held there.

Further off is the campus of the University of Iceland, the Nordic house and the Vatnsmýrin wetland, a particularly pleasant place, but be mindful to not disturb the wildlife there by keeping to the pathways.

For a nice swim on a warm day, we particularly recommend Nauthólsvík beach, which is heated with geothermal water. Those who love a dip should also visit the Laugardalur valley, home to one of the city’s best swimming pools, which sits a short walk away from Ásmundarsafn gallery, a beautiful botanical garden and a domestic zoo.

A walk by the Ægissíða beach, with its old fishing sheds, in the west part of Reykjavík also holds a particular charm. From there, you can see all the way to president’s house at Bessastaðir, which is also a historical site in its own right, having been the educational centre of Iceland for centuries. 

Another place that offers one of the city’s best views is Perlan, up on Öskjuhlíð hill. The hill itself is a popular place to spend a few hours, with over 176,000 trees and great opportunities for walking and cycling. Perlan also has and observation deck with great views, a café and an exhibition centre.

Furthermore, the city is a short drive from many of Iceland’s major attractions, most famously the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. In close vicinity you’ll also find the Heiðmörk preservation area, a favourite local site of the people of Reykjavík, as well as the Blue Mountains, one of Iceland’s best skiing venues.

Finally, we’d like to stress that these are only some suggestions of the many things you might check out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose to do, we hope you’ll be able to make the most of your visit and we wish you a pleasant stay in our capital.

Jökulsárlón is Iceland’s most famous glacier lagoon. Conveniently located in the southeast by Route 1, about halfway between the Skaftafell Nature Reserve and Höfn, it is a popular stop for those travelling along the South Coast or around the Ring Road of the country.

Geography

As a glacier lagoon, Jökulsárlón is a lake that is filled with the meltwater from an outlet glacier. In this case, it is Breiðamerkurjökull, a tongue of Europe’s largest ice cap, Vatnajökull.

It stands out, however, due to the fact that it also fills with icebergs breaking from the glacier, some of which tower several stories high.

These icebergs, other than their scale, are notable for their colouration. Although they are, as expected, largely white, most are also dyed electric blue in part, with black streaks of ash from eruptions centuries past.

When the icebergs finally make it across the lagoon, they either drift out to sea or wash up on the nearby shore. Because of the way they glisten against the black sands of Breiðamerkursandur, this area has been nicknamed ‘the Diamond Beach’.

In spite of being a rather recent formation, Jökulsárlón is the deepest lake in the country, with depths of 248 metres (814 feet). With a surface area of 18 square kilometres (7 square miles), it is also growing to be one of the largest.

History

Jökulsárlón has not been around since Iceland’s settlement; it only formed around 1935. This was due to rapidly rising temperatures in the country from the turn of the twentieth century; since 1920, Breiðamerkurjökull has been shrinking at a dramatic rate, and the lagoon has begun to fill its space.

Today, the expansion of Jökulsárlón is accelerating. In 1975, it had less than half its current surface area.

In the relatively near future, it is expected that the lagoon will continue to grow until it becomes a large, deep fjord.

Though a dark omen for Iceland’s glaciers and ice caps in general, the retreat of Breiðamerkurjökull has resulted in an incredibly beautiful, if temporary, site. This has not been overlooked by Hollywood.

Jökulsárlón has been featured in the James Bond films A View to Kill in 1985 and Die Another Day in 2002, 2001’s Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and 2005’s Batman Begins.

In 2017, Jökulsárlón was enveloped into the Vatnajökull National Park, thus it is now fully protected by Icelandic law.

Wildlife

Because of the wealth of herring and capelin that the tides bring into the lagoon, Jökulsárlón is somewhat of a hot-spot for Iceland’s wildlife.

In summer, it is a nesting site for Arctic Terns; stay well away from their nesting area, as these birds are notorious for the fierceness with which they protect their eggs, dive-bombing the heads of any they see as a threat. Skuas also nest on the lake’s shores in this season.

Seals can be reliably spotted here throughout the year, swimming amongst or else hauling out on the icebergs. Jökulsárlón provides them with a safe haven to rest and socialise, especially considering the waters of southeast Iceland are renowned for their population of orcas.

Vatnajökull glacier is the largest glacier in Europe, covering 8% of Iceland’s landmass.

It is the central feature of the Vatnajökull National park, found in the south west of Iceland, a popular spot for activities like glacier hiking from Skaftafell, boat tours in the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, and ice caving tours between November and March.

Facts about Vatnajokull

Vatnajökull has a surface area of approximately 8,100 square kilometres (3127 square miles); though it is rapidly shrinking due to climate change, its recession is not quite as advanced as at other glaciers, such as Langjökull and Mýrdalsjökull. In parts, it is a kilometre deep (over three thousand feet), and its average thickness is around half of that.

Vatnajökull also holds the tallest peak in Iceland beneath its ice; Hvannadalshnjúkur is 2,200 metres tall (7,218 feet). It also conceals some of the most active volcanoes in the country, the most notable being Grímsvötn, Öræfajökull and Bárðarbunga.

Volcanic activity in the region has occurred on and off throughout the centuries, and many geologists believe that several eruptions are overdue. If their calculations are correct, it would mean significant volcanic activity for Vatnajökull over the scope of the next half-century.

Depending on winds, this could result in worldwide consequences in terms of air-travel, agriculture and the general climate.

The glacier boasts over 30 outlet glaciers, which are channels of ice that flow out of ice caps but remain constrained on the sides of the valley. The major outlet glaciers of Vatnajökull include Dyngjujökull in the north, Breiðamerkurjökull, and Skeiðarárjökull to the south. To the west, one can find the outlet glaciers Síðujökull, Skaftárjökull and Tungnaárjökull.

Numerous rivers run out of Vatnajökull, making up some of the greatest glacial rivers in Iceland. The most notable are:

• Tungnaá (west)

• Köldukvísl (west)

• Þjórsá (west)

• Jökulsá á Fjöllum (north)

• Skjálfandafljót (north)

• Jökulsá á Brú (northeast)

• Jökulsá í Fljótsdal (northeast)

• Jökulsá í Lóni (south)

• Hornafjarðarfljót (south)

• Jökulsá á Breiðamerkursandi (south)

• Skeiðará (south)

• Núpsvötn (south)

• Hverfisfljót (south)

• Skaftá (south)

Vatnajokull National Park

Vatnajökull National Park was established in June 2008 and has slowly grown to include more and more areas. The park now covers an area of 14,141 square kilometres (5,460 square miles), 14% of the country. It is the second largest national park in Europe.

Rivers divide the highland plateau to the north of the park. The volcanic table mountain Herðubreið towers over this particular region, along with volcanoes Askja, Snæfell and Kverkfjöll.

The canyon Jökulsárgljúfur was carved out by glacial floods centuries ago. At the upper end of the canyon, you'll find Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe. Further north, the horseshoe-shaped canyon Ásbyrgi is believed to have formed when Óðinn's eight-legged horse, Sleipnir, stepped his foot down from the heavens.

East around Snæfell, one can find wetlands and ranges, home to roaming herds of wild reindeer and abundant birdlife. Steep mountain ridges make up the south side of Vatnajökull, where outlet glaciers crawl onto the lowlands. The sandy plains of Skeiðarársandur also lie to the south, and the glacial river Skeiðará runs through this vast desert.

One of Iceland's most visited landmarks in the National Park is the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, which sits at the base of the outlet glacier Breiðamerkurjökull. Here, large icebergs that have broken off the glacier float across a vast lake before ending up in the Atlantic Ocean, or washed ashore on the nearby Diamond Beach.

This is one of the best seal-watching spots in the country.

The Future of Vatnajokull

The volume of Vatnajökull reached its peak around 1930 but has since been in a steady process of decline. Because of rising levels of global temperature, Vatnajökull has on average lost about a metre (three feet) of its thickness annually over the past 15 years.

If temperature levels continue to rise, the glacier could be all but gone nearing the end of the next century, leaving only small ice caps on top of the highest mountain summits.  

Efforts are being made to prevent what some say is the inevitable, with reforestation projects going on all around the glacier, a proven method of cooling the area. Time will tell how successful they are.

Vatnajokull and Jokulsarlon in Popular Culture

The beauty of Vatnajökull National Park has not gone unnoticed by those in film or television. Many famous scenes have been shot here, starting with James Bond: A View to Kill in 1985. Other notable films with scenes here include Batman Begins, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and James Bond: Die Another Day.

Most famously, however, many places in Vatnajökull have been used in the HBO Series Game of Thrones, north of the Wall. The Wall itself is constructed with CGI using shots of the glacier.

Mývatn is a beautiful lake with many small islands in the north of Iceland, the fourth largest lake in the country. Due to its serenity, birdlife and volcanism, the lake, including its surrounding area, is one of the most amazing natural attractions in the country.

Mývatn is, in fact, so beautiful that is was used as a site in the Game of Thrones franchise. In mid-winter it was used to represent the lands North of the Wall, namely Mance Raider’s Wildling camp.

Geology

Mývatn sits about an incredibly active geothermal area, giving it a unique and beautiful geology. After all, it is close to sites such as Krafla caldera, which contains the notorious Víti volcano, the name of which translates to ‘hell’.

Many of the islands here are thus pseudocraters, formed by steam explosions as magma rose beneath pockets of water, and many are bizarre basalt columns, rising vertically from the surface, formed by rapid cooling after an eruption.

The high amount of geothermal activity beneath Mývatn, of course, presents the opportunity for bathing in naturally heated waters. This is best done at the Mývatn Nature Baths, a beautiful establishment with serene waters, incredible views, and a reasonable entry fee.

Wildlife

Mývatn has some of the best bird-watching available in Iceland, although those seeking puffins will need to be at coastal cliffs such as those at Látrabjarg and Dyrhólaey, between May and September.

In fact, Mývatn has more species of duck than anywhere else in the world, with thirteen nesting species and many more visitors. Most popular (and common) amongst these is the harlequin duck sometimes referred to as the white-eyed diver after their unique white markings.

Mývatn’s surrounding vegetation and plentiful food make it a happy home for voles, mice and rats that have spread all over Iceland, providing tasty treats for Iceland’s only native land mammal, the Arctic Fox. Visitors, however, will have to keep a close eye out for these, as they are experts in camouflage.

In terms of flora, the most interesting plant life at Mývatn actually exists just beneath the surface of the water. Marimo are ‘moss balls’, bizarre spheres of fluffy green algae that are found in very few other places around the world, namely Japan (where they got their name), Scotland, Estonia and Australia.

Surrounding sites

Visitors to Mývatn often wish to spend more than just a single day exploring its many surrounding locations. Primary amongst these is Dimmuborgir, a lava field which truly reflects the dramatic consequences of a volcanism in Iceland. This area is steeped in folklore and is home to the thirteen ‘Santas’ of Iceland, the Yule Lads.

It was also here that many of the Game of Thrones scenes were shot such as Mance Rayder's wildling camp at Dimmuborgir and Grjótagjá cave, where Jon and Ygritte shared an evening together. Though this site can be admired from the shore, the water temperature is not monitored and can heat up very quickly, so visitors are asked not to take a dip.

Those with an interest in Iceland’s strange geothermal and geological sites should also check out the Skútustadagígar pseudo-craters and the aforementioned Víti crater and its surrounding lava field. There are also several geothermal hot spots around Krafla and the Námaskarð Pass which is a fascinating and primordial place.

Lake Mývatn is located on the Ring Road that fully encircles the country, making further sites easily reachable. To the west is the ‘Capital of the North’, Akureyri, a charming town with the highest population outside of the capital area.

To the east, you can find the largest waterfall in Iceland, Dettifoss which also happens to be the most powerful waterfall in Europe, and the incredible horseshoe-shaped canyon, Ásbyrgi. This feature was said to have formed by the stomping of one of the feet of Oðinn’s eight-legged horse as it leapt through the sky.

Dimmuborgir, or the Black Fortress, is a dramatic expanse of lava in the Lake Mývatn area. Steeped with folklore, it is one of the most popular destinations for travellers to north Iceland.

Geology of Dimmuborgir

Dimmuborgir was formed in an eruption that occurred in the area 2,300 years ago; the Lake Mývatn area is highly volcanic, as can be further seen in nearby locations such as the geothermal Námaskarð Pass, the hot spring cave Grjótagjá, and the dramatic Krafla fissure.

As lava flowed across the area, it passed over a lake, causing it to boil. This both quickened the cooling of the lava and caused pillars of steam to shatter parts of it. After it solidified, Dimmuborgir area became defined by large stacks of rock and many caves and caverns, caused by bubbles of intense steam.

As such, many have compared Dimmuborgir to a medieval castle, with its many hidden chambers and its rising towers.

Folklore of Dimmuborgir

In Icelandic culture, lava caves are allegedly the homes of the nation’s brutal and vile trolls. The most famous of these were the half-troll, half-ogre Grýla and her submissive husband Leppalúði. Grýla was renowned for her insatiable appetite for children, and her gigantic pet cat, that would eat children over the Christmas period for not getting any clothes (encouraging kids to finish their weaving, knitting and sewing chores before the season set in).

Grýla and Leppalúði had thirteen sons who lived in Dimmuborgir and are now known as the ‘Icelandic Santa Clauses’ or Yule Lads. On the thirteen nights before Christmas, these trolls come one by one to terrorise Icelanders, each with their own strategy after which they were named.

Sheep-Colt Clod, for example, would harass livestock; Skyr-Gobbler would steal and lick the house's supplies of yoghurt-like skyr; and Window-Peeper would stare into houses, looking for things to burgle.

Like most frightening Icelandic stories, the Yule Lads were most likely created to keep children from going out into the cold Icelandic winter nights, where many disappeared without a trace for centuries. As the nation modernised, they became mischievous tricksters rather than devilish monsters. Now, they have been ‘Americanised’; rather than traditional Icelandic garb, they wear Santa costumes, and although they still steal skyr, they now also bring gifts.

Due to Iceland’s remoteness and fondness for storytelling, the nation developed many unusual Christmas traditions.

During the Christianisation of Iceland, Dimmuborgir developed a new set of tales. Many began to believe, due to its starkness, that it was where Satan landed when cast from heaven, and where he created the catacombs to hell.

Dimmuborgir in pop culture

Dimmuborgir recently saw a surge in popularity, as it was featured on HBO’s Game of Thrones. In the series, it is where Mance Raider held his wildling army. It was shot here in winter.

The popular Norwegian black metal band Dimmu Borgir is also named after the area. 

Vatnsnes is a peninsula in north Iceland, best known for its wildlife and geology.

Wildlife at the Vatnsnes Peninsula.

The Vatnsnes Peninsula is well-known as being one of the best places in the country, alongside the Westfjords, Ytri Tunga Beach and the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, to watch seals from the shore.

Iceland is home to grey and harbour seals throughout the year, although occasionally is visited by harp, ringed, hooded and bearded seals. Rogue walruses even show up on rare occasions, but not as far south as Vatnsnes.

The best locations on the Vatnsnes Peninsula to see seal colonies are at the farms Svalbarð and Illugarstaðir. Both of these have car parks and signposts to assist visitors in getting close to the seals, and neither require a great deal of walking to reach the optimal viewing points. At Illugarstaðir, there are also bathroom facilities and binoculars available.

The best time to view the seals is the two hours before and after low tide, when the weather is clear.

The seals of these sanctuaries are not particularly afraid of people, but even so, they are wild animals and should not be approached, and definitely not fed; though usually peaceful, seals have been known to bite, and such wounds are very easily infected.

It is also essential that, in spite of videos on Youtube, the seals should never be filmed with a drone. They are very sensitive to noise, so the buzzing sound (as well as any shouting) will frighten them away, disturbing the animals and ruining the experience for all other guests.

To learn more about the seals on Vatnsnes, visitors should attend the Icelandic Seal Centre, located in the largest town on the peninsula, Hvammstangi.

The centre has been running since 2005, and has exhibitions on the biology and geographical distribution of seals, the protection of seals, and the relationship between the animals and man since settlement. It also has information on the birds and whales that frequent the Vatnsnes Peninsula.

To learn more about seal-watching in Iceland, there is a relevant article you can read on this site.

Geology of the Vatnsnes Peninsula

Vatnsnes is a mountainous peninsula that is geologically less active than the rest of the country. It still has interesting basalt formations, however, the most notable of which is the Hvítserkur monolith.

This bizarre feature stands just out to sea in shallow water, and is most often compared to an elephant drinking; some onlookers have said it more resembles a dragon or a dinosaur.

According to legend, however, it is a troll, that waded into the sea to throw rocks at the nearby monastery (trolls, unlike hidden elves, despised Christianity, and could not live on or near sanctified ground). It is said that the sun rose during its assault and it had no time to find shelter; it was frozen into the rock formation you see today.

Hvítserkur has been reinforced at its base with concrete to preserve it for future generations. It is one of the country’s most photographed landmarks, both for its unusual shape and the fact it hosts many nesting birds in summer, who can lay their eggs safe from land predators such as Arctic Foxes and rats.

Aldeyarfoss is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland, found within the north highlands in the Skjálfandafljót river.

Geology of Aldeyjarfoss

Aldeyarfoss stands at twenty metres tall, and plummets into a beautiful blue lagoon. It is best known for its surrounding geology, as on either side of it are rows of hexagonal basalt columns, features found in few places around the world.

These columns are so perfectly formed and symmetrical that they seem to be carved by hand. They can, however, be explained by physics.

When lava was flowing down the cliff faces at Aldeyarfoss during an eruption centuries ago, the outer lava, which was exposed to the air, cooled into solid rock fasting than the layers beneath. In this case, the lava was moving in a way that meant it cooled quickly at the same rate over an even surface.

This caused the lava to contract equally across its surface into cylindrical columns, that cracked into the hexagonal structures due to the different levels of pressure in the rock.

These basalt columns can be found in several places around Iceland, such as along Gerðuberg on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and at the cliffs in the village of Hofsós. The only other easily accessible waterfall with them, however, is Svartifoss in the Skaftafell Nature Reserve, in the south-eastern corner of the country.

At Aldeyarfoss, the columns are more diverse in colour than their black counterparts at Svartifoss, with yellow and red shades created by the sulfur and iron brought up in the eruption.

Other Waterfalls in the Skjálfandafljót River

Aldeyarfoss is the most second most popular waterfall in the Skjálfandafljót river, losing out to Goðafoss which sits a more accessible location and has an interesting history.

This falls is found on the road between the two most visited sites of the north, the town of Akureyri and Lake Mývatn. It is famous for being the location where Iceland symbolically marked its departure from paganism to Christianity in 1000 AD; here, the lawspeaker at the time threw away his idols of the Old Norse Gods, where they were consumed by the rapids.

Aldeyarfoss and Goðafoss are not the only waterfalls in the Skjálfandafljót river, however. Just to the south of the former is Hrafnabjargafoss, a horseshoe shaped falls that stands at five metres tall. Others include Ingvararfoss, Barnafoss and Ullarfoss.

Getting to Aldeyarfoss

Aldeyarfoss is located just inside the north Icelandic highlands. It can be reached by turning onto Route 844, which leads off the Ring Road between Akureyri and Mývatn. This road will lead onto Route 842, before it continues onto a highland track, the F26. Highland routes should only be approached in a four-wheel-drive.

This route will lead to a carpark on the southern side of the waterfall, which provides excellent views over the falls. It can, however, also be viewed at its north bank.

To reach this less-known area, turn off Route 842 when you see the signs for the farm Stóratunga. This route will take you past the aforementioned Ullarfoss falls, renowned for being fed by clear springwater, and over a bridge. You will then turn left on a gravel road signposting towards to Aldeyarfoss, follow it to a small carpark, and from there take take a short hike to the northern bank.

Goðafoss waterfall is located in the river Skjálfandafljót in north Iceland, the fourth largest river in Iceland. It is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the country, falling from a height of 12 metres (39 feet) over a width of 30 metres (98 feet).

History of Goðafoss

The name Goðafoss means either waterfall of the gods or waterfall of the 'goði' (i.e. priest/ chieftain). The reason for this is its fascinating history.

When Iceland was first settled in the 9th and 10th Centuries, the vast majority (who were not slaves, at least) were Norwegians who followed the Old Norse religion, worshipping deities like Thor, Odin, Loki and Freya. However, after the Commonwealth was established in 930 AD, pressure to convert began to push from Christianising Europe.

By 1000 AD, it seemed that Norway would almost certainly invade if the country were to stand by their pagan beliefs. The issue was thus discussed at Þingvellir, where the parliament met once a year. The lawspeaker at the time, the Ásatrú priest (or goði) Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði, was given the responsibility to make the decision.

It is said he sat beneath a birch for a day and a night in silence, praying to his Old Gods for the right decision. Eventually, he emerged and said, for the good of the people, Christianity would be the official religion, but pagans could practice in private.

To symbolise his decision, he returned to his home in north Iceland and threw idols of the Old Gods into a beautiful waterfall. Since then, it would be known as Goðafoss.

Getting to Goðafoss

Goðafoss is located in north Iceland, on the Ring Road that fully encircles the country. It is considered part of the Diamond Circle sightseeing route.

This trail also takes visitors to the Lake Mývatn area, Dettifoss Waterfall, Ásbyrgi Canyon and the town of Húsavík.

Mývatn is a beautiful lake, filled with a wealth of birdlife, and it is renowned for it incredible surroundings, which include fortresses and of lava, geothermal areas, craters and basalt pillars. Dettifoss is another waterfall, and though it does not have the history of Goðafoss, it has much more power; it is, in fact, the most powerful waterfall in Europe.

Ásbyrgi Canyon, meanwhile, is also linked to the Old Norse Gods. Its perfect horseshoe shape was said to have been created by the stomping of one of the hoofs of the eight-legged steed of Odin. The final destination on the Diamond Circle is Húsavík, the best place for whale-watching in Iceland.

Outside of the Diamond Circle, Goðafoss, is easily reached by travelling for 45 minutes east by car from the capital of the north, Akureyri.

This is the largest settlement outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area and is a perfect place to stay for those travelling the circle around the country. It is a renowned cultural centre, with many museums, galleries and the world’s northernmost botanical gardens. Many tours depart from here.

Goðafoss can be reached throughout the year, although drivers in winter will want to be sure that they rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

Dettifoss is a waterfall found in North Iceland, said to be the most powerful in Europe. It is regularly visited on Diamond Circle tours and should not be missed by any visiting the region.

Geography

Dettifoss is fed by the powerful glacier river Jökulsá á Fjöllum which flows from the largest glacier in Europe, Vatnajökull. The thunderous falls has an average waterflow of 193 metres cubed per second (6,186 cubic feet). It is 100 metres (330 feet) wide and plummets 45 metres (150 feet) down into Jökulsárgljúfur canyon.

This canyon is in the northern part of the greater Vatnajökull National Park, the largest national park in the country, thus Dettifoss is well protected.

Also within this canyon, fed by the river of Jökulsá á Fjöllum, are two more impressive waterfalls, Selfoss (not to be mistaken with the southern town of the same name) and Hafragilsfoss.

Surrounding Sites

Dettifoss is located north of the Ring Road that encircles Iceland, bypassing only the Westfjords and Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the west. There are two routes that connect the Ring Road to Dettifoss. However, traversing those in the winter can be difficult, even with a four-wheel-drive vehicle.

The most significant settlement near Dettifoss is the town of Akureyri, or ‘the Capital of the North’. With over ten thousand people, it is the largest town outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area. It is an excellent place to stop and rest for those visiting the North or encircling Iceland.

Another town of significance in the area is Húsavík, a coastal town that claims the title of the best whale watching town in all of Europe. In summer, operators usually have 100% success rates in terms of sightings. The most common species are humpback and minke whales, white-beaked dolphins and harbour porpoises, although blue, fin, sei, beaked, pilot, beluga and killer whales are seen on rare occasions.

Between Akureyri and Dettifoss is the Lake Mývatn area. This beautiful expanse is renowned for its wealth of flora and fauna, particularly its birdlife; dozens of species can be found here, particularly ducks.

It is also renowned for its spectacular geology, with its pseudocraters, basalt pillars, and the lava field of Dimmuborgir which is said to be the home of Iceland’s thirteen ‘Santas’, who are traditionally vindictive trolls more than they are jolly gift-givers.

Dimmuborgir and Mývatn were both used as a set in the Game of Thrones franchise, for many scenes North of the Wall. Dettifoss, meanwhile, was used in the opening scene of the 2012 film Prometheus, where the black rocks and dramatic scenery allowed it to represent an alien landscape.

Another waterfall sits on the Ring Road between Akureyri and Mývatn: Goðafoss. Though not as great as Dettifoss, its history is deeper; it was there in 1000 AD that Iceland’s lawspeaker symbolised the country’s shift from believing in the Old Norse Gods to believing in Christianity by throwing idols into the waterfall.

North of Dettifoss, one can find the incredible canyon of Ásbyrgi. This canyon is shaped like a giant horseshoe and filled with verdant greenery. It is so perfectly formed and dramatic that it was originally believed to have been created by the stomping of one of the hoofs of the eight-legged horse of the Old Norse God Odin.

Snæfellsjökull is a glacier-capped volcano found on the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in west Iceland. It stands in a National Park of the same name, one of the only three National Parks in the country.

It stands at 1,446 metres (4,744 feet) tall, and on clear days, is visible across the bay from Reykjavík. The stratovolcano beneath Snæfellsjökull is 700,000-year-old.

The mountain is actually called 'Snæfell' (Snowy Mountain), though the 'jökull' (Glacier) is often added to help distinguish it from other mountains of the same name.

For the first time in recorded history, Snæfellsjökull had no snow or ice at its peak in August 2012, causing concern amongst locals that climate change is threatening the nature of the mountain.

History

Snæfellsjökull has several small villages surrounding it, including Hellissandur, Rif and Ólafsvík, all of which were some of the busiest commercial and fishing hubs in the country for much of the last millennium.

Fishing took off primarily in the 13th-Century, with fishing stations being built in all areas with easy access to the open ocean. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula was a notable centre of this industry, due to the fertile waters within Breiðafjörður bay.

One notable example would be the settlement of Dritvík; in spite of its minuscule size today, it once utilised around forty to sixty boats and employed up to six hundred people.

Fishing in the region declined during the 19th century due to change in Iceland’s industry and fish stocks, though it is still an important source of livelihood for those living on the Peninsula.

The Snæfellsjökull National Park was established in 2001, and tourism is rapidly changing the trade of the area.

In Folklore

Snæfellsjökull has, for centuries, been considered to be one of the world’s ancient power sites, a source of mysticism, energy and mystery for the peninsula’s superstitious population.

The feature takes a prominent role in Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, a late 14th-century saga that tells the story of  Bárður, half-human-half-troll, who became the 'guardian spirit of Snæfellsjökull'.

There are many rock formations on and around Snæfellsjökull that are said to be trolls petrified by sunlight, or else homes of the hidden people.

On November 5th, 1993, thousands of people came to Snæfellsjökull as some paranormal enthusiasts believed there would be an alien landing; CNN even showed up with a camera crew. Though the evening passed without a galactic invasion, the incident shows the strange significance of Snæfellsjökull to many.

In Literature

Snæfellsjökull serves as the entrance to a fantastical subterranean world in Jules Verne’s classic 1864 novel 'Journey to The Centre of The Earth.' Given its central place in the novel, Snæfellsjökull has become one of the most popular spots for visitors in Iceland and has inspired a wealth of writers, poets and artists.

Since 'Journey to The Centre of The Earth', Snæfellsjökull has appeared in the ‘Blind Birds’ trilogy by Czech science fiction writer Ludvík Souček (partially based on Jules’ work) and in ‘Under The Glacier’, a novel by Iceland’s only Nobel laureate, Halldór Laxness.

Nearby Attractions

Along with the glacier, attractions on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula include the two nearby basalt cliffs called Lóndrangar and the many fascinating lava formations at the beautiful Djúpalónssandur beach, such as the arch rock Gatklettur.

At Djúpalónssandur, one can also test their muscle as historic sailors once did with the four 'strength' stones, Amlóði ('Useless'), Hálfdrættingur ('Weakling'), Hálfsterkur ('Half Strength') and Fullsterkur ('Full Strength').  

In the area, one can also explore the Saxhóll volcano crater and 'the singing cave' Sönghellir, which is named after the loud echoes inside.

Skógafoss is one of Iceland’s biggest and most beautiful waterfalls with an astounding width of 25 meters (82 feet) and a drop of 60 meters (197 feet).

Due to the amount of spray the cascade produces, at least one rainbow is present any time the sun emerges from behind the clouds.

Located on the Skógá river, this mighty cascade is clearly visible from Route 1 and is an excellent place to stop and stretch the legs while travelling Iceland’s South Coast. The river below Skógafoss holds a large char and salmon population and is thus a favourite spot for fishermen in the summer.

The land underneath the waterfall is very flat, allowing visitors to walk right up to the wall of water. This will get you drenched, although, on a summer’s day, it can be quite tempting.

Skógafoss can also be viewed from the top as a steep staircase leads to an observational platform above the cascade. Many nesting seabirds can be found on the route up.

Geography

Skógafoss is located near the small village of Skógar, south of the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano. There you’ll find the Skógasafn folk museum, an open-air museum with both old wooden houses and turf houses, as well as a regional museum with various artefacts from this area.

A part of the Skógasafn Regional Museum is the Museum of Transportation, which showcases the history and evolution of transportation, communication and technologies in Iceland. There, you can see how this nation evolved from the age of the working horse to the digital communications of the 21st century.

The Skógasafn museum also includes a café and a museum shop, and in the village of Skógar, you will find both a hotel and a restaurant.

At the eastern side of Skógafoss, you will find one of Iceland’s most famed hiking routes; the Fimmvörðuháls pass. The 22 kilometre (14 miles) trail takes you along Skógá river, between two glaciers, Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull, before ending in the beautiful Þórsmörk valley.

Skógafoss is often visited alongside the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, which is just a little further along the South Coast. Both fall from cliffs of the same height, and while Skógafoss is much more powerful, Seljalandsfoss has a cave behind it, which means it can be fully encircled. It is also next to a much lesser known but still awe-inspiring waterfall, Gljúfrabúi.

Folklore

A gold ring is on display at the Skógasafn museum. According to legend, the ring is from a chest that was owned by Þrasi Þórólfsson, one of the first Viking settlers in the area, who by some accounts was a giant. Folklore states that before his death in 900 AD, Þrasi buried a chest filled with gold in a cave behind Skógafoss waterfall.

Many attempts were made to retrieve the chest after Þrasi’s death, and years later, locals managed to grasp a ring on the side of the chest. As they pulled, the ring broke off, and the treasure was lost forever. The ring was then given to the local church before it made its way to the museum.

Seljalandsfoss is a waterfall that can be fully encircled, situated on the South Coast of Iceland with a drop of 60 metres (200 feet).

Due to the waterfall’s close proximity to the Ring Road and impressive natural features, it is one the country's most famous and visited falls. Majestic and picturesque, it is one of the most photographed features in all of Iceland.

Geology and Surroundings

Seljalandsfoss waterfall, part of the river Seljalandsá, has its origins underneath the glacier Eyjafjallajökull. The volcano beneath this ice cap was the one that erupted in 2010 and caused havoc at airports across Europe.

The cascade of the falls is relatively narrow but falls from a tall cliff that once marked the country's coastline, the sea is now located across a stretch of lowlands and is visible from the site.

The most distinguishing feature of Seljalandsfoss is a pathway that stretches all the way around it. The cliffs behind the falls have a wide cavern, and rocks and paths allow guests to fully encircle it in summer.

Though a mesmerising opportunity, visitors should be prepared to get dampened due to the perpetual mist of the falls, which also tends to make the rocks of the pathway slippery. 

Floodlights have been set up on both sides of the waterfall, which impressively illuminate the scene during the night when the midnight sun is not out. The lights were installed in 2001 due to the growing popularity of the falls as a tourist destination.

After visiting Seljalandsfoss, it is common for visitors to continue north to the waterfall Gljúfrabúi, which is found partially hidden behind a rock face. Because of Seljalandsfoss extreme popularity, Gljúfrabúi is widely considered the hidden gem of the scene, as it is too often overlooked.

Seljalandsfoss is also usually visited alongside the nearby Skógafoss. The waterfall falls from the same height, and while it cannot be encircled, it is much more powerful and steeped in the legend of a giant’s hidden treasure.

Visitor Centre Controversy

In 2017, it was announced that a visitor’s centre was to be constructed near the falls. The design of the building indicated that it would be seven metres (23 feet) high and 2,000 square metres (21,500 square feet) in size. Landowners in the area opposed to the idea, proclaiming that the centre would greatly alter the natural appearance of the waterfall’s renowned scenery.

The project has neither been fully approved nor wholly cancelled, with ideas surfacing of either significantly reducing the size of the construction, or moving the visitor centre’s location further away, for instance to the nearby farmstead Brekkuhorn.

Seljalandsfoss in Popular Culture

Along with a multitude of South Iceland’s most famous natural attractions, Seljalandsfoss can be seen in Justin Bieber’s music video for his song ‘I’ll Show You’. Please enjoy the video without emulating any antics that will endanger yourself or the environment.

The waterfall was also a featured waypoint during the first leg of the sixth season of The Amazing Race, an American reality TV series.

Dyrhólaey Peninsula is a 120-metre promenade famed for its staggering views of Iceland’s South Coast, as well as its historic lighthouse and wealth of birdlife. It is home to a rock arch of the same name.

Dyrhólaey, which translates to Door Hill Island, is of volcanic origin and was once an island before joining up to the Icelandic mainland. In ancient times, passing sailors used to refer to Dyrhólaey as ‘Cape Portland’.

It is also the southernmost part of the Icelandic mainland, making it a popular stop for sightseers travelling along the Ring Road, and can be found close by the coastal village of Vík í Mýrdal.

Other features along the South Coast en route to Dyrhólaey from Reykjavík include the waterfalls Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, and the glacier Eyjafjallajökull.

Dyrhólaey Arch

Dyrhólaey’s most instantly recognisable attraction is the promenade’s massive rock arch, a result of centuries of erosion. As a result, its name is in direct reference to this enormous arch. In fact, this natural feature is so large and dramatic that one daredevil pilot even flew through it, back in 1993. Boats can easily cruise through its opening.

Dyrhólaey Wildlife

Dyrhólaey has an abundance of birdlife, the most common year-round being Eider Ducks. Iceland’s favourite winged resident, the migratory Atlantic Puffin, can be found here from May to September.

It is one of the best places to reliably locate them, and one of the closest to Reykjavík after the islands in Faxaflói Bay which can be visited by boat from the Old Harbour.

While watching puffins, it is striking how little they seem to fear people, as they allow you to get very close. Be aware, however, they do not like to be touched, and if one flies off in a panic, the whole flock might follow it, so be respectful.

Features at and around Dyrhólaey

From your position atop the promenade of Dyrhólaey, you can enjoy staggering views over Iceland’s black sand beaches, complemented by the glittering waves of the Atlantic on one side, and distant mountainscapes to the other.

The most notable stretch of coast here is called Reynisfjara, renowned for its incredible geology, with the sea-stacks of Reynisdrangar jutting up out to sea. If you visit this beach while seeing Dyrhólaey as part of a South Coast adventure, be sure to follow the warning signs and stay away from the water as dangerous sneaker waves here are commonplace.

To the north, you will also able to see the creeping glacier, Mýrdalsjökull. This amazing ice cap conceals a secret; beneath its surface is one of the most explosive and notorious volcanoes in all of Iceland, Katla. Long overdue, experts say that it is a matter of when - not if - it will erupt over the coming years.

On top of Dyrhólaey stands Dyrhólaeyjarviti, a beautiful old lighthouse that consists of a white, square concrete tower. The first lighthouse in the area was built in 1919; the current construction was completed in 1927. Visitors here will be able to see the lighthouse flicking out beams of white light to sea every ten seconds.

Snæfellsnes is a large peninsula extending from West Iceland, often nicknamed ‘Iceland in Miniature’ due to its wealth and diversity of natural features found there.

Home to the Snæfellsjökull National Park, at the centre of which is a subglacial volcano that towers over the scenery, this peninsula is home to waterfalls, rock formations, beautiful beaches, historic villages, and an intricate folklore.

In particularly clear weather, the Snæfellsnes Peninsula can sometimes be seen from Reykjavík, making views across the water from the capital of Iceland particularly beautiful. Those with an extended stay in Iceland are recommended to look into spending at least a day here.

Natural Sites of Snaefellsnes

The peninsula stretches 90 kilometres (56 miles) from West Iceland, between the Reykjanes Peninsula to the south and Westfjords to the north. A mountain range runs along it, consisting of both active and dormant volcanoes, culminating at the magnificent, ice-capped Snæfellsjökull volcano.

Starting along the south side of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, you will first come to the Eldborg crater, which can be scaled for some incredible views, and the Gerðuberg basalt cliffs, where hundreds of hexagonal basalt columns are arranged with geometric precision. You will then start hugging the coast, where animal-lovers can find the Ytri-Tunga beach and its year-round seal colony.

The next site of particular natural beauty is the Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge, a cleft in a huge cliff face that it is possible to climb into. A stream runs through here, so those who want to plumb its depths will get wet. Those with decent clothing, sturdy shoes and reasonable fitness, however, will be able to get quite far.

After Rauðfeldsgjá, you will come to the mighty basalt plugs of Lóndrangar. All that remains of what was once a massive crater, these two enormous pillars are not only awe-inspiring in their scale, but home to thousands of nesting seabirds.

You will then enter Snæfellsjökull National Park, which, in spite of being the smallest of the country’s three national parks, is pregnant with destinations worth visiting.

The most historic of these is Djúpalónssandur beach. Comprised of black, volcanic sands, it is best-known for the four lifting stones that remain on the beach from a bygone age. Fishermen would use these stones to mark their strength, and gage their suitability to working on the dangerous waves.

Within the National Park are also two lava caves that can be entered in summer. Sönghellir is renowned for the musical qualities of its echoes, whereas Vatnshellir is favoured for its easy access and vivid colouration. There is a small entry fee to the latter and you cannot enter it without a guide.

Of course, however, the highlight of this part of the Peninsula is no doubt Snæfellsjökull itself. Even if you are not ascending it on a glacier hiking tour, it is worth stopping by to marvel at.

This is particularly the case for literature enthusiasts. The adventure in the Jules Verne novel ‘A Journey to the Centre of the Earth’ begins here, and it is the backdrop to the lesser-known novel ‘Under the Glacier’, by Nobel-Prize winning Icelander, Halldór Laxness.

On the north side of the peninsula is the haunting Berserkjahraun lava field, near the town of Bjarnarhöfn, the history of which weaves deception and murder. Most notable on this stretch, however, is the mountain Kirkjufell, often described as the most photographed mountain in Iceland, and known as "the mountain shaped like an arrowhead" from the popular HBO series, Game of Thrones.

Cultural Sites of Snaefellsnes

There are a few small and beautiful villages dotted across the peninsula, the majority of which are on the northern side, where the fishing is better. Most notable are Arnarstapi, Hellnar, Búðir, Hellissandur, Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur.

The last of these is highly popular for travellers, featuring a volcano museum and a ferry that takes you across the fascinating Breiðafjörður bay to the south border of the Westfjords with a stop at the remote island of Flatey.

Other museums of note are the Maritime Museum at Hellissandur, the regional museum at Ólafsvík, and, last but not least, the shark museum at Bjarnarhöfn, where you can taste the Icelandic ‘delicacy’, hákarl, or fermented shark.

Reykjanes is a peninsula in south-west Iceland, characterised by immense lava fields, volcanoes and heightened geothermal activity.

The Reykjanes Peninsula runs along the Mid-Atlantic Rift, where the Eurasian and the North American tectonic plates are drifting apart. Due to this geological setting, the whole peninsula is extremely volcanically active, covered with lava fields, and eruptions and earthquakes are very common here. 

During the Middle Ages, many eruptions occurred in Reykjanes, but no eruptions have been recorded here for the last 500 years. This is simply a period of dormancy, however; they could start again at any time.

Earthquakes are still common. In 2001, one occurred beneath the lake Kleifarvatn and drained it to the extent that it lost 25 per cent of its surface area. Since then, hot springs have been bubbling beneath its surface.

The main geothermal areas of Reykjanes, however, are Gunnuhver, Krýsuvik and Svartsengi. Various mud pools and fumaroles can be seen at Gunnuhver, while Krýsuvik is characterised by hot springs and mud pots that bestow multicoloured hues upon the soil.

The green crater lake Grænavatn is also an impressive sight.

Svartsengi is home to a geothermal power station that produces 76.5 MW of electricity from the 475 litres of 90° C water that gushes from the earth per second.

The mineral-rich surplus water fills up the Blue Lagoon spa.

Reykjanes' cliffs are teeming with birdlife. Its best-known bird colony resides in Krýsuvikurbjarg which is the nesting place of approximately eighty thousand seabirds. While puffins are not found here, it is an excellent place to spot cormorants, fulmar, and other such species.

North of Krýsuvíkurbjarg is the aforementioned Kleifarvatn, the largest lake on the peninsula and one of the deepest in Iceland. On the centre of the peninsula is lake Djúpavatn, a popular fishing destination. 

Reykjanes is hammered by some of the most breath-taking breaker waves in the world. A short drive from Krýsuvík is Selvogur, where one can witness mighty waves shattering against the rocks. On Reykjanestá, the southwest tip of the peninsula, the waves are known to reach heights of thirty metres (nearly one hundred feet).

Because of this, coastal erosion is constantly ongoing at Reykjanes, and if it were not for the eruptions, it would either be much narrower or simply lost to the seas.

The peninsula's north side is dotted with fishing villages and towns, most notably Keflavík, Sandgerði, Garður and Vogar. Grindavík town is located on the south shore of the peninsula. Together, the towns and towns Keflavík, Njarðvík, Hafnir and Ásbrú make up the municipality Reykjanesbær which consists of just under 16,000 residents, making it the fifth largest municipality in Iceland.

Near Keflavík is the Miðnesheiði heath, where the international airport, Leifsstöð (also known as Keflavíkurflugvöllur, or Keflavík Airport) is located. This is the port of arrival for the vast majority of travellers coming to Iceland.

On the southern tip of the peninsula is the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, an ideal place for relaxing and bathing and one of the most-visited attractions in Iceland.

Mýrdalsjökull is a glacier in the south of the Icelandic highlands. It is the country's fourth largest ice cap, covering nearly 600 square kilometres (232 square miles), and its highest peak is almost 1500 meters tall. It is most well-known for sitting atop the notorious and explosive volcano, Katla.

Mýrdalsjökull is visible from Route 1 on the South Coast, sitting to the north of the village of Vík. It is visited on some snowmobiling, ice caving and helicopter tours, and one of its glacial outlets, Sólheimajökull, is the most popular place in the country for ice-climbing and glacier hiking.

Eruptions beneath Myrdalsjokull

Since 2010, the world has known of the volcano beneath Eyjafjallajökull; after all, it halted European air travel for over a week and stumped news readers everywhere. Few, however, are aware of the much larger volcano right beside it.

Mýrdalsjökull conceals Katla, one of the country’s most active volcanoes, having erupted, on average, once every fifty years since 930 AD. Because of the glacier above it, these eruptions tend to cause enormous ash clouds. It is these ash clouds that lead to flights being grounded, crops and livestock poisoned, and have the potential to change the world’s climate.

The last major eruption beneath Katla was in 1918, in which such huge lahar floods occurred that the southern coastline was extended five kilometres outwards. This area is also very susceptible to glacial floods, or 'jökulhlaup', during eruptions, even when the lava does not break through the surface of the ice. These are as dangerous as the lava itself, having wiped out whole Icelandic villages before.

Historically, the area was little settled for this reason.

Katla is connected to the same volcanic system as Eyjafjallajökull and usually erupts violently a few years after Eyjafjallajökull does. As the ex-president, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson said in 2010:

So it is currently several years overdue. Katla is monitored heavily, and roads around it closed when seismic activity increases. All road closures around Iceland can be found on Road and Coastal Administration's website.

Tours on Myrdalsjokull

While there are no eruptions immediately imminent, tours continue to run onMýrdalsjökull, allowing visitors to enjoy the glacier. It is, for example, possible to snowmobile across its surface throughout the year and take ice caving tours beneath it from October to April, with departures from both Reykjavík and Vík.

Considering the ice caves under Vatnajökull glacier are usually only accessible from November to March, this provides a wider window of opportunity for travellers to Iceland outside of the depths of winter. It should be noted that the caves in Mýrdalsjökull do not have the same blue ice, however.

Tours around Myrdalsjokull

Mýrdalsjökull can be seen on all South Coast tours that reach Vík and beyond in clear weather. It can also be seen from above on helicopter tours that depart from Reykjavík.

The best perspectives of the glacier, however, can be found on the popular Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail, which goes between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. Part of this hike can be done in a day, or you can take the complete route from Þórsmörk to Skógar on a three-day trek

Reynisfjara is a world-famous black-sand beach found on the South Coast of Iceland, just beside the small fishing village of Vík í Mýrdal.

With its enormous basalt stacks, roaring Atlantic waves and stunning panoramas, Reynisfjara is widely considered to be the most beautiful example of Iceland’s black sand beaches. In 1991, National Geographic voted Reynisfjara as one of the Top 10 non-tropical beaches to visit on the planet.

Reynisfjara is found around 180 kilometers (112 miles) from Iceland’s capital city, Reykjavík, and is a popular stop-off for those taking a sightseeing tour along the popular South Coast.

Driving to the beach is particularly easy, taking an approximate two and a half hours from the capital, so can easily be done within half a day, or a full one combined with other features.

Folklore

Upon visiting the beach, travelers will immediately observe rocky sea stacks sitting off the shoreline, known as Reynisdrangar.

According to local Icelandic folklore, these large basalt columns were once trolls trying to pull ships from the ocean to shore. However, these trolls were dim and went out too late in the night; dawn broke on the horizon, turning the trolls into solid stone.

Another legend tells of a husband whose wife was kidnapped and killed by two trolls. The man followed the trolls down to Reynisfjara where he froze them, ensuring that they would never kill again.

So mesmerizing are these features that they featured in Season 7 of the HBO Series Game of Thrones; you can spot them in a few scenes shot ‘North of the Wall’.

The sea stacks themselves are home to thousands of nesting seabirds. Species that can be found here include puffins, fulmars and guillemots, making it a must-see location for all birdwatchers out there.

Surrounding Sites

Reynisfjara beach is located conveniently in the middle of the South Coast, adjacent to the village of Vík. This means that those taking the Ring Road around the country, or else those heading to the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, will pass it, and are encouraged to make a stop.

The closest major landmark is the Dyrhólaey rock arch and cliffs. While many seabirds are found at Reynisfjara, it is nothing compared to the numbers here. From May to August, it is one of the best places to see puffins from land.

En route to Reynisfjara from Reykjavík, you will discover waterfalls, such as Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, and glaciers, such as Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. Further along the South Coast, you will reach the Vatnajökull National Park, with its many glacier tongues, glacier lagoons, black sand deserts, and the incredible Skaftafell Nature Reserve.

Potential Dangers

Visitors to Reynisfjara must be made well aware of the potential dangers present at the beach. First of all, the rolling, roaring waves of Reynisfjara are particularly violent, often pushing far further up the beach than many would expect.

These are called sneaker-waves, and they can appear when least expected, even on incredibly still days. There are no significant landmasses in between Antarctica and the shores of Reynisfjara, meaning waves have thousands of kilometers to build.

Visitors are advised to never turn their back on the waves, and keep a safe distance of at least 30 meters (98 feet).

Aside from these sudden and dramatic shifts in the tide, the rip currents offshore are infamous for their strength and ability to drag helpless people out into the freezing cold open ocean. A number of fatal accidents have occurred at Reynisfjara, the last of which occurred in January 2017.

Hellnar is an old fishing village on the westernmost part of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. It used to be one of the largest fishing stations of the peninsula, with the oldest written record of seafaring there from 1560.

History of Hellnar

Historically, the settlement was a hub of activity, with many trading and fishing vessels pulling in and out of the harbour daily. There were many farms around the area, and by 1703, 38 houses.

Though by modern international standards this was nothing, it was rather significant for Iceland at the time.

Throughout the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, however, Iceland began to develop and industrialise, and its fishing and trading industries began to move to Reyjavík, bringing with them many people.

Hellnar, therefore, rapidly lost its population and importance, like many other places in Iceland particularly on the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula. The change in the economy hit Hellnar particularly hard, however, considering it was increasingly neglected for the neighbouring village of Arnarstapi, which was favoured by the ruling Danish.

The settlement was abandoned but for a few farms and a few resilient locals, until tourism began to boom in Iceland. Now, it is a centre for visitors in the area, with many options for rural accommodation.

Hellnar hosts the guesthouse for Snӕfellsnes National Park, which has a very interesting exhibition about the economy of former times, and on the geology, flora and fauna of the park.

Sites near Hellnar

At the shores of Hellnar are spectacular rock formations; much of the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula is incredibly dramatic along its coast, due to the previous volcanism of the area and the waves shattering the brittle lava rock that makes up the land.

Most notable amongst these that can be reached on foot is a protruding cliff called Valasnös. It has tunnels into the cliff, and its colouration is affected by the time of the day, the movements of the sea, and the prevailing weather conditions.

Large colonies of birds nest in the area, although it should be noted that puffins do not.

Hellnar, located at the tip of the peninsula, is a convenient hub for those travelling in their own car, offering easy access to the incredible natural sites nearby. These include the Lóndrangar sea stacks, the mountain Kirkjufell, and the Ytri Tunga seal watching beach.

Like many other places on Snӕfellsnes, it is easy to see the beautiful glacial capped volcano Snӕfellsjökull from the village.

Hrafnabjargafoss is a waterfall located in the Skjálfandafljót river, one of the longest rivers is Iceland.

It is little-known compared to other waterfalls in north Iceland, making it somewhat of a hidden gem in the region. It can be found alongside a highland road that is only accessible in summer.

Waterfalls of the Skjálfandafljót River

Hrafnabjargafoss is but one of several falls found in the Skjálfandafljót river. The most famous of these is Goðafoss, which sits several miles north, on the road between Akureyri and the Lake Mývatn region.

This easy to access location and its history, being the place where Iceland marked its conversion to Christianity in 1000 AD when idols of the Old Norse Gods were tossed here, means that Hrafnabjargafoss has always sat somewhat in Goðafoss’s shadow. That does not mean, however, that it is any less beautiful or worthy of a visit.

Though only about five metres tall, it falls from a unique, horseshoe shaped cliff in several chutes. It is surrounded by moss covered lava rock, black sands and some greenery in summer, and boasts stunning highland views to the south.

Other waterfalls in Skjálfandafljót include Aldeyarfoss, famous for the hexagonal basalt columns that cluster around it; Ingvararfoss, where two rapid falls mean at a tumultuous point in the river; Barnafoss, not to be confused with a waterfall of the same name in west Iceland; and finally Ullarfoss, which is fed by fresh springs.

Getting to Hrafnabjargafoss

Hrafnabjargafoss is really only accessible in summer, unless on tour in which specialist vehicles, equipment and guides are needed. This is because it is located on a highland road that is closed to the general public in the winter months as it is not maintained and thus often covered in snow. Even in summer, it can only be driven to in a four-wheel-drive.

From Akureyri, where most people stay when in travelling to the north of the country, follow the Ring Road eastward until you hit Route 844, where you will turn right towards the country’s interior. Follow this road onto Route 842, and continue onto the F26. This journey will take you past one of the aforementioned waterfalls, Aldeyarfoss, which is also well worth a stop.

Once you reach Íshólsvatn lake, you will find a trail that leads five hundred metres away from it to the left, which will take you to the feature.

The journey, without stops, will take you approximately an hour and a half.

Other Sites Around Hrafnabjargafoss

Being an attraction in north Iceland, a visit to Hrafnabjargafoss can be just a part of an extensive day of sightseeing, and to more than just the waterfalls of the Skjálfandafljót river.

This region boasts the Mývatn area, a series of lakes surrounded by geothermal and geological wonders, such as the Mývatn Nature Baths and Dimmuborgir lava fortress respectively; some of its features are both geothermal and geological attractions, such as the Grjótagjá hot spring cave.

A little further to the east, you can find the seething mud-pits and steaming fumaroles of the barren Námaskarð Pass, and a little further east from here, you can find three more great waterfalls, part of the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river.

These are named Selfoss, Dettifoss and Hafragilsfoss, and while all are magnificent, Dettifoss is undoubtedly the most impressive, being the most powerful falls in Europe.

Just north of here is the dramatic, forested horseshoe shaped canyon of Ásbyrgi.

Arnarstapi is a village on the southern side of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, once a fishing hub and now a place for travellers to refuel before entering Snæfellsjökull National Park. The area has several old and charming houses with interesting stories to them and is renowned for its beautiful nature.

History of Arnarstapi

Records of settlements around Arnarstapi date back to the Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, an ancient Icelandic Saga that tells of the half-human, half-ogre who once lived on the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Since his death, he has been considered the area's guardian spirit.

The region was popular with settlers due to its natural harbour, meaning fishing in the rich herring grounds of the surrounding waters was easy. When Norway, and to a much greater extent when they took over, Denmark, were in control of Iceland, Arnarstapi grew increasingly as a trading port.

Denmark invested a lot of money into Arnarstapi throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries (for their own interests, unfortunately not those of the Icelanders). Many of the resulting buildings still stand today, being some of the oldest in the country, such as the Danish Prefect’s Residence, which was built in the 1770s.

In the industrial revolution, Arnarstapi’s population radically shrunk which was common in the countryside at this time. The vast majority of Iceland’s jobs were now centralised in Reykjavík, reducing opportunities for small-time fishermen and their businesses, and the town became little more than a hamlet as a result.

As Iceland’s infrastructure rapidly improved after independence in 1943, and more people abroad began to see the many wonders of this island as a travel destination; Arnarstapi, like many other settlements in the area, got a new lease on life.

Fishing and trade remain vital parts of the economy, but they now play second fiddle to tourism and services. The village has essential services for those travelling on the peninsula, a wide array of accommodation options, and tour companies operating from it.

Nature and Sites around Arnarstapi

The beach at Arnarstapi holds a particular attraction. It has an eroded circular stone arch, called Gatklettur, and here, the interplay of spectacular waves and the light of the sun create a fascinating spectacle. Large colonies of the arctic tern also nest in the area, and both these features make it very popular amongst photographers.

An old horse trail through the lava field Hellnahraun is highly popular for hiking, due to the impressiveness of the surrounding landscape.

Arnarstapi, however, should never be too long a stop on a tour of the peninsula. As lovely as it is, the natural attractions nearby simply warrant more time. The village, for example, sits on the cusp of Snæfellsjökull National Park, home to the Snæfellsjökull glacier and volcano, the beauty of which has inspired writers and artists for centuries.

This is one of only three National Parks in the country, but it is to the credit of the peninsula’s beauty that it is far from the only must-see destination around. Very close to Arnarstapi is the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs, huge towers of lava that from a distance look like a fortress.

Vatnshellir and Sönghellir and two nearby lava caves (the former of which can only be entered on a guided tour). There is also a beautiful cleft in a mountainside called Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge that it is possible to climb into.

Though a little further away, on the north of the peninsula, Kirkjufell mountain is also a wonderful site to behold.

The Námafjall Geothermal Area is located in Northeast Iceland, on the east side of Lake Mývatn.

At this area, also known as Hverir, you will see many smoking fumaroles and boiling mud pots, surrounded by sulphur crystals of many different colours. This sulphur gives the area an overwhelming smell of egg.

The soil in the area has little vegetation due to the acidity caused by these geothermal processes.

Around the area is a small hiking trail up to Námaskarð pass and Námafjall mountain, which returns to the highway and the parking lot.

In 1969 a geothermal power plant was built west of the Námafjall Area. The plant currently produces 3MW of geothermal energy.

Concerns have raised over current plans to expand the plant to 90 MW. In particular, there have been worries in regards to the effect of the plant on the delicate ecosystem of Lake Mývatn. The head of an environmental NGO has recently called for a new environmental impact assessment on the plans, and the matter continues to be debated.

Kirkjufell, or 'Church Mountain', is a distinctly shaped peak found on the north shore of Iceland’s Snæfellsnes Peninsula, only a short distance away from the town of Grundarfjörður. It is often called ‘the most photographed mountain in Iceland’, due to its dramatic formation and perfect coastal location.

Kirkjufell takes its name from its resemblance to a church steeple, sharpened at the top with long curved sides. From other angles, the mountain has been compared to a witch’s hat or even a freshly scooped ice cream.

Photography at Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall

Peaking at 463 metres, 1519 feet, Kirkjufell is an impressive landmark. Throughout the centuries, Kirkjufell’s striking slopes have acted as a visual landmark for seafarers and travellers. More recently, it has attracted amateur and professional photographers alike.

Within walking distance from Kirkjufell is the serene and perfectly located waterfall Kirkjufellsfoss, or 'Church Mountain Falls', an excellent subject for photographers who can easily frame the mountain in the background. Despite its relatively diminutive height, Kirkjufellsfoss’ three-steps, gentle flow, and dramatic differences between seasons make it as impressive as some of Iceland’s larger waterfalls.

At the base of the mountain, visitors will also be able to find a lake; on calm and clear days, this lake reflects a perfect mirror image of Kirkjufell, only adding to the fantastic photo opportunities around this area.

On top of that, the colours of Kirkjufell change with the passing seasons; the summer sees it a lush green, full of life, whilst the winter months scar the mountain’s face with a mask of barren brown and white. Of course, it is more impressive under the midnight sun in the weeks surrounding the June equinox, and under the northern lights, best seen between September and April.

Fans of the HBO series Game of Thrones will recognise Kirkjufell as a shooting location from Season 7 of Game of Thrones. The mountain is showcased from the scenes ‘North beyond the Wall’ when Jon Snow, The Hound and Jorah Mormont, amongst others, brave the wilderness in hopes of catching an undead wight.

Having seen it in a vision, The Hound acknowledges Kirkjufell as “[...] the mountain like an arrowhead”, and the events that happen beneath it are some of the show’s most dramatic.

Hiking Kirkjufell

There is a fairly steep trail to the top of Kirkjufell, from where there are magnificent panoramas of the surrounding fields, coastlines and rivers. The mountain takes roughly an hour and a half to ascend, with another one and a half hours needed to get back to the bottom.

Given the steep elevation and treacherous trail, you should only hike Kirkjufell if you are a very experienced and confident mountain climber, preferably in the company of an expert guide. Sadly, there have been three fatal accidents on the mountain, most recently in 2018.

Getting to Kirkjufell

Kirkjufell is extremely close to Grundarfjörður, a small town on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, which is just over two hours drive from Iceland's capital city, Reykjavík. From Grundarfjörður, one travels a few minutes west down Route Snaefellsnesvegur 54 to the base of Kirkjufell. Visitors have plenty of parking space to choose from, all free of charge.

Reynisdrangar are impressive rock formations situated near the shore of Reynisfjara beach by the coastal village Vík on the South Coast of Iceland.

The formations are the remains of large and imposing sea cliffs, made up of basalt, that serve as a vital part of the area’s allure; they shoot dramatically out of the ocean under the looming cliffs of Mt. Reynisfjall, making for a beautiful site, and have a folklore that is equally impressive.

More modern visitors will be excited to know that these pillars also feature in Season 7 of Game of Thrones, at Eastwatch by the Sea.

Dangerous Waves

Before getting into the wonders of Reynisdrangar, it is important for potential visitors to be aware of the dangers at the site.

These majestic rock pillars rise from the sea just off of Reynisfjara, a famous black sand beach on the South Coast, by the village of  Vík. Though incredible due to its diverse and dramatic geology, Reynisfjara is gaining a notorious reputation for its sneaker waves.

There are no significant landmasses between Antarctica and Reynisfjara, giving waves the entire length of the Atlantic Ocean to build strength. This means that even on still, summer days, they can rise from seemingly nowhere and chase far further up the sand than would ever be expected.

It is absolutely imperative, therefore, that guests stay at least 30 metres (98 feet) from the water’s edge. Those who flout these rules put their lives and the lives of others at risk; people have died here before.

Folklore

As with almost all bizarre features in this country, there is an Icelandic folk tale that explains the origin of the Reynisdrangar pillars and their eerie appearance.

According to legend, a couple of trolls saw a ship out to sea by night, and waded out to reach it. They got hold of it, and began to drag it to shore, but as so often happens in troll stories, they got their timing wrong.

Before they were even close to getting to the shade, dawn broke. The trolls and ship were instantly frozen into stone, and they have remained immortalised since, as a warning to their kin.

This is not the only folk tale in this area. According to local legend, two other trolls murdered a woman, whose husband hunted them down, tricked them into coming out at night, and ensured they too were turned to stone. Their remains can be found inland.

Surroundings & Wildlife

Most visitors will only see the Reynisfjara sea-stacks from the shore of Reynisfjara, although there is an incredibly rewarding alternative view of them from above. Those with a reasonable level of fitness can venture up the bewitching cliffs of Mt. Reynisfjall, by a road to the west of Vík.

The mountain furthermore holds thousands of puffins every summer, from May to August. These adorable creatures have very little fear of people, and can be approached within metres (although you should never try to touch them). Other birds can be seen gliding around the cliffs such as Arctic terns, fulmars and seagulls.

The oceans of Iceland are pregnant with life, so lucky visitors may also see seals in the water, or even one of Iceland’s twenty species of whale and dolphin.

Hvítserkur, otherwise known as the Troll of Northwest Iceland, is a 15 m (49 ft) tall basalt rock stack protruding from Húnaflói Bay. The rock is a nesting ground for seagulls, shag and fulmar, making it appear constantly in motion, further enforcing the idea that Hvítserkur is, in some way, very much alive.

Hvítserkur is best viewed along the eastern shore of Vatnsnes Peninsula and takes its name from the birdlife that nests on top of it. In Icelandic, the name translates to “white shirt”, a nod to the colour of the bird droppings that cover the rock.

Photographers tend to be drawn to Hvítserkur as a subject due to the way the sun, moon, and aurora borealis reflect off of the flat water around its distinctive form.

Folklore of Hvítserkur

It should come as no surprise that Hvítserkur is often referred to as a troll—most distinctive Icelandic rocks are. Folklore says that Hvítserkur was originally a troll from the peninsula, determined to rip the bells down from Þingeyraklaustur convent; trolls, unlike elves, are said to be terrified of Christianity.

The beast was so enraged and persistent that it did not notice the rising sun, and was instantly petrified for eternity in its rays.

In hindsight, like most of Iceland’s folktales, it seems this one had a Christian message not so subtly weaved into it. It is likely that the story was an allusion to the people’s stoic resistance to the Christianisation of Iceland, implying those who held onto the view were as stubborn, stupid, violent and wicked as trolls, and perhaps on their way to a similar fate.

Iceland converted to Christianity in 1000 AD under the threat of invasion from Norway, and the transition was not easy; those who practised the religion of the Old Norse Gods were ostracised and punished for the millennium that followed.

Formation of Hvítserkur

The scientific community has another explanation for how Hvítserkur formed. Erosion from the cascading sea water has carved three large holes through the basalt rock, sculpting and shaping it into what appears as some petrified, mythological animal.

The base of the stack has been reinforced with concrete to protect its foundations from the sea, but this has not stopped visitors’ interpreting the rock’s peculiar shape.

Some say Hvítserkur looks like more like an elephant than a troll, while others claim it looks like a rhino. Some onlookers have gone as far as to claim the rock appears as a dragon or dinosaur drinking.

Sites Nearby Hvítserkur

Hvítserkur is located on Vatnsnes Peninsula, the best seal watching location in the country. In the town of Hvammstangi, there is the Icelandic Seal Centre, where visitors can learn all about how these charming animals have influenced the nation’s survival and folklore. The town also has some small shops and a restaurant with beautiful sea views.

To the south of Hvítserkur one can find the beach of Sigríðarstaðir, which is arguably the most reliable and rewarding location viewing seal colonies in the country.

Hvítserkur is also only a short drive from the historical and quintessential Súluvellir farm, a location that boasts incredible views of the surrounding landscape.

The Lóndrangar basalt cliffs are amongst the many geological wonders of the Snæfellnes peninsula.

Geology of Lóndrangar

Once a volcanic crater, all that remains after aeons of ocean battering are two great pillars upon a cliff, one 75 metres (246 ft) high and the other 61 metres (200 ft).

Their dramatic scale has earned this incredible formation the nickname ‘the rocky castle.’

The cliffs can be accessed easily from the Visitor’s Centre, through fields of mossy lava, but they can also be seen from the sea. Surfing is relatively popular in the area and doing so in the shadows of these great peaks only adds to the experience.

Folklore of Lóndrangar

The surrounding lands are steeped in folklore; farmers have never made use of the fields around the Lóndrangar basalt cliffs due to the elves that are rumoured to live there.

Nearby, at Þúfubjarg, another cliff on the Snӕfellsnes Peninsula, it was said that the poet Kolbeinn Jöklaskáld met the devil and struck a deal with him.

Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photos by Chensiyuan

Djúpivogur is a small coastal village located on the Búlandsnes peninsula, nestled by the picturesque fjord of Hamarsfjörður in east Iceland.

The town has an approximate population of 400 people. Fishing has been the primary engine for Djúpivogur’s economy for centuries. In recent times, the tourism industry has blossomed and a hotel, restaurants, cafés, a campground and shops can all be found in and around the town.

History

Djúpivogur’s history is deeply interlinked with trading. Records show that Djúpivogur was a trading centre as far back as 1589, meaning over four centuries of commerce in the region. The historic building Langabúð (the oldest warehouse in Djúpivogur), constructed in 1790, has recently been renovated and now serves as the town's cultural centre. Inside is the Heritage Museum, dedicated Djúpivogur’s commercial past.

The cultural centre also displays the incredible sculptures of the late artist, Ríkarður Jónsson (1888-1977).  In addition, the town has excellent sports facilities, a swimming pool, museums, and a garden of outdoor sculptures named Eggin in Gleðivík, by Sigurður Guðmundsson. By design or not, these sculptures perfectly capture the prospering local birdlife across the region and make for beautiful photographs.

Culture

Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo by Olafurbj

The landscape around Djúpivogur is overshadowed by Búlandstindur, a pyramid-shaped basalt mountain peaking at 1069m. The mountain is known across Iceland for it’s staggering, almost sculpted beauty. According to local folklore, the mountain is able to grant wishes during the summer solstice and is an ‘energy centre’ for the entire country.

The town has a public artwork called ‘The Eggs of Merry Bay’, where replicas of the eggs of the 32 birds that nest in the area line the shore.  Djúpivogur is also the only ‘Cittaslow’ town in the country, which promotes easy, slow living for personal and environmental health.

Papey

From Djúpivogur, boat tours can be taken to the largest island off east Iceland. Papey, roughly two square kilometres in size, was inhabited since the settlement of Iceland until as recently as 1966.

The island still resonates with the ghosts of this lost settlement. The oldest wooden church in Iceland, constructed in 1807, can be found in Papey, alongside an automated weather station and a lighthouse. The island is home to an enormous colony of Atlantic Puffins, and is a fabulous day trip from mainland Iceland.

Djúpalónssandur is an arched-shaped bay of dark cliffs and black sand, located on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula in western Iceland. 

History & Monuments 

The location was once home to a prosperous fishing village, similar to other abandoned hamlets and ports of the area such as Búðir and Hellnar. These thrived back when the Snæfellsnes Peninsula functioned as one of the most active trading posts of the island, but now are simply centres for tourism.

Fascinating remnants of this period are found in the form of four ancient lifting stones that still occupy the beach. The stones range in weight from 23 kg (50 lbs) to 155 kg (342 lbs) and were used to test the strength of fishermen. Their names are Amlóði (useless), Hálfdrættingur (weakling), Hálfsterkur (half-strong) and Fullsterkur (full-strong). Even today, you can see how you would have fared working on Iceland's dangerous seas by trying your luck at lifting these stones.

In 1948, the English trawler Epine GY 7 from Grimsby shipwrecked on the shore, with fourteen dead and five survivors. The rusty iron remains of the vessel remain scattered on the beach, now protected as a monument to those who perished. 

Environment & Surroundings

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula boasts countless natural wonders, where locals and travellers both flock on a daily basis to enjoy the unique landscape and stunning coastlines. Djúpalónssandur’s black pebble beach is particularly stunning with its rocky coastal lava formations, which include a large lava rock with a hole in the middle through which you can directly spot the Snæfellsjökull glacier volcano. 

Behind the rocks are two freshwater lagoons called Djúpulón and Svörtulón, with the former serving as the namesake of the bay. Though believed in olden times to be bottomless, the water bodies were later revealed to reach the depth of just five metres.

Lagoons such as these are held in high regard amongst the Icelandic people, and Svörtulón is thought to possess healing properties, especially after having been blessed by Bishop Guðmundur góði ('the good') in the late 1100s. 

A natural monument of the area is Söngklettur, or “singing rock”, a large lava rock with a reddish hue that resembles an elfish church. Other rock formations of folklorish appeal rest close by, including the alleged trolls-turned-to-stone Kerling and Lóndrangar. 

Warning

When visiting Djúpalónssandur, take heed that these are treacherous waters and the Atlantic Ocean’s powerful suction can easily carry you out to sea. This beach is not one for wading, but enjoying from a safe distance, especially if the weather is stormy. 

The video below shows the power and shocking speed of sneaker waves that occur at locations such as Djúpalónssandur and Reynisfjara in the south.

The glistening pebbles that make up the beach known as Djúpalónsperlur, or “pearls of the deep lagoon”, are gorgeous to look at and might seem appealing to stone collectors, but they are protected by law and should not be removed from the area by visitors.

Vestrahorn, on the Stokksnes peninsula in Southeast Iceland, is one of the country’s most breathtaking mountains. With peaks reaching up to 454 metres (1490 ft), steep cliffs rising from the sides of a stunning lagoon, and black sand beaches all around, it promises to blow away anyone with an appreciation of stark natural beauty. 

Slightly off the beaten track, Vestrahorn is less ‘touristy’ than many of Iceland’s other mountains, making it popular with avid photographers. The Stokksnes peninsula also has an interesting history stretching back to the 9th Century, with Horn being one of the country’s first settlements; it was also a vital location of the British army during World War Two. 

Just over an hour’s drive from the incredible glacial lagoon Jökulsárlón, and close to Europe’s largest glacier Vatnajökull, Vestrahorn is a natural wonder amongst natural wonders, and a great place to experience the isolated, quiet, beautiful charm of this island. Be aware, however, that the beach at Stokksnes is private, and has a small entrance fee, which allows the landowner to keep up the maintenance of the road.

The South Coast of Iceland is the country's most visited sightseeing route, along with the Golden Circle.

This incredible shoreline stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east and is lined with countless natural wonders such as cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, black sand beaches and glaciers.

Geography, Nature & Wildlife

The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Route 1 highway (the Ring Road), which encircles Iceland. The area consists of a diverse lowland that transitions between, marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.

Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Its edges reach several hundred metres offshore where the ocean waves crash upon them, thereby protecting the lowland from the invasion of the sea. This results in the South Coast being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shoreline.

The region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey, including the North Atlantic puffin between May and August. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.  

Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.

Highlights of the South Coast

The South Coast offers an unprecedented array of natural wonders that draw thousands of visitors each day.

When driving the route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss, which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days from these beautiful cascades, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean.

A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the outlet of Sólheimajökull.

The aforementioned Dyrhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Even if you come outside of puffin season, they are well worth a visit; jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.

Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, home to the rock pillars of Reynisdrangar, said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun. Though beautiful, this area is gaining notoriety for its dangerous sneaker waves, so visitors should be sure to stay well away from the edge of the water, even on a calm, still day.

There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.

After passing through Vík, you will cross the glacial sand plain of Skeiðarársandur, before entering Vatnajökull National Park, home to the largest ice cap in Europe, Vatnajökull itself, dozens of glacial outlets and the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon.

While almost all of these sites can be seen from Route 1, they make up a fraction of what the South Coast has to offer. The vast sand plains of Sólheimasandur are home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck, and within the Vatnajökull National Park is the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve.

Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall, and short distances from Jökulsárlón you will find the Diamond Beach, where icebergs wash on the black-sand shore, and another glacier lagoon, Fjallsárlón.

Gatklettur ("Hellnar Arch") is a famous, naturally formed stone arch found between the villages of Arnarstapi and Hellnar on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. 

Gatklettur is particularly spectacular for photographers, amateurs and professionals alike. The strange, swirling patterns across the rock itself is a testament to the ocean's constant barrage and makes for a fascinating photographic subject. 

Thankfully, Gatklettur is less frequently visited by guests to Iceland, so there is a good chance you'll have this scenic stop all to yourself. The best way to access the rock arch is to hike from Arnarstapi to Hellnar, taking in the beautiful coastlines and gorgeous mountain backdrop as you walk. This route is approximately 5 km and should take around two hours. Gatklettur is far closer to Arnarstapi than Hellnar. 

The Eastfjords of Iceland is a 120 kilometre (75 mile) long stretch of coastline from Berufjörður, in the south, to the small fishing village of Borgarfjörður Eystri, in the north.

Out of Iceland’s total population of 335,000 people, only an estimated 3.2% live in the East Fjords. Locally referred to as "Austurland," or "Austfirðir," the total area covers 22,721 square kilometres (8,773 square miles).

Often overlooked by visitors, the Eastfjords represent the very best of what Iceland has to offer; fantastical scenery, remote fishing villages, sparkling lakes, dense forests and traditional farms.

Boasting the sunniest weather in the country, as well as some of Iceland’s most well-known wildlife, this region is perhaps best known for its herds of wild reindeer, its breathtaking coastlines and its promise of tranquil solitude.

Papey

Papey (“Friar’s Island”) is an uninhabited island located off the east coast of Iceland. The island is approximately 2 square kilometres (0.8 square miles) with its highest point measuring 58 metres (190 feet) above sea level. Boat trips to Papey depart every summer from Djúpivogur.

The island is named after Gaelic monks (“The Papar”) who are thought to have inhabited the island long before the Norse settlement. What is known for sure is that Papey was lived upon from the 10th century until the year 1966 when the island’s residents finally moved to the mainland.

For centuries, Papey’s residents had supported themselves on fishing for shark, hunting seals and puffins, and tending to their farmsteads. In later years, the residents would also harvest down from Eider Ducks living on the island.

Today, visitors to Papey can enjoy the large puffin colonies that still live on the island, as well as the remnants of the former settlement; a lighthouse, church and weather station all still exist much as they did in 1966.

Seyðisfjörður

Those arriving in Iceland by ferry from mainland Europe or the Faroe Islands will make port at Seyðisfjörður, a town famous for its ornate wooden architecture, Scandinavian influence and historical herring-fishing industry. In fact, much of the timber used to develop Seyðisfjörður was shipped over by Norway ready-made in the 18th century.

Populated by around 700 people, Seyðisfjörður is surrounded by pounding waterfalls, flat-top mountains and serene hiking tails, complimented by gorgeous panoramas over the adjacent fjord. Other activities available from or near Seyðisfjörður include scuba diving, skiing, sea angling, paragliding and horseback riding; there is even a number of cultural exhibits including the Fjarðarsel Power Plant Museum and the Skaftfell Centre for Visual Arts.

Other Attractions

The Eastfjords are packed with fantastic cultural landmarks, such as Hallormsstaðarskógur, the country’s largest forest, found just on the eastern shore of Lake Lagarfljót. If you enjoy pleasant walks through nature, you could also visit the hiker’s paradise, Borgarfjörður Eystri, the supposed homes of elves and Iceland’s ‘hidden folk’.

Visitors can also enjoy the black sand beach of the charming fishing village of Breiddalsvik and take a trip to the longest and widest valley in Iceland, Breiðdalur.

For something a touch more relaxing, one could also take a soothing dip in the swimming pool at Selárlaug; the pool is surrounded by mountains and beautiful views over the fjord, making this one of the more authentic experiences available in the region.  

The Diamond Circle is a famed 260 kilometre (162 mile) sightseeing route in the northeast of Iceland, characterised by its sheer number of natural attractions, picturesque settlements and fantastic landscapes.

The Diamond Circle is available for those who wish to drive the route themselves, as well as those who would prefer to partake in a guided tour of the region.

It is considered the northeastern alternative to the popular Golden Circle sightseeing route, which is reached by travelling for forty minutes from Iceland’s capital, Reykjavík, and comprised of the three major sites Þingvellir National Park, Geysir Geothermal Valley and Gullfoss Waterfall.

The route’s four main attractions are Lake Mývatn, Europe’s most powerful waterfall, Dettifoss, the horseshoe-shaped canyon, Ásbyrgi and the fishing town of Húsavík, known primarily for its fantastic whale watching opportunities.

Lake Mývatn

Lake Mývatn is one of the most popular sites of the north; it is a favourite location for birdwatchers in particular, who can see dozens of species year round.

The lake area is also known for its flora, being home to rare moss balls and many wildflowers, and its geology. This takes the form of basalt pillars rising from the waters, pseudocraters surrounding them, and the lava fortress of Dimmuborgir.

Dimmuborgir is a dramatic and beautiful location, used as a setting for the Game of Thrones franchise. In folklore, it is said to be home to the thirteen Icelandic Yule Lads

Dettifoss.

Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Europe, found in the Jökulsá á Fjöllum river in the Jökulsárgljúfur Canyon, which is part of the great Vatnajökull National Park. It is 40 metres (131 feet) tall and over 100 metres (328 feet) wide.

Dettifoss is one of three waterfalls in the river; Selfoss is just a little upstream, while Hafragilsfoss is downriver.

Ásbyrgi

The horseshoe shaped canyon of Ásbyrgi is so perfectly formed that one could be forgiven for thinking it has divine origins. This is, in fact, what old Icelanders used to believe; according to legend, it was created when one of the hoofs of the eight-legged horse of the god Oðin made contact with the earth.

The land within the canyon is well-forested, due to the shelter that the sheer cliffs provide.

Húsavík

Húsavík is often nicknamed ‘the whale-watching capital of Europe’, due to the wealth of life in its waters. Most tour operators boast 100 percent sighting rates on their tours throughout summer, with the most common species being humpback whales and white-beaked dolphins.

Over twenty species of cetacean, however, are found in Iceland’s waters, and there is a chance of seeing any of them, depending on the time of year, from the town. Blue whales, for example, have been seen in summer, and some rather lost Narwhals and Belugas have been seen in winter.

Other Sites

Other sites on the Diamond Circle include the likes of Goðafoss Waterfall, Æðafossar (“Eider Falls”), Hljóðaklettar (“Echo rocks” or “The Whispering Cliffs”) and Laugar swimming pool.

Do note, however, that not all tour operators travel to each of these attractions. If you are looking to visit each location individually, with nothing missed, it is recommended to drive the sightseeing route yourself.