Kirkjubæjarklaustur is a village in South-Iceland by ring-road 1, the first village you encounter after driving through the vast glacial outwash of Mýrdalssandur. It is a lovely little village with only about 120 inhabitants.
The name of the village, Kirkjubæjarklaustur, is this long as it is actually 3 words linked together - kirkju = church, bæjar = the genitive of a farm or a village, and klaustur = convent. We Icelanders usually refer to Kirkjubæjarklaustur as Klaustur for short.
These names date way back to year 1186 and the local names tell you a story from that time. There was a Benedictine convent at Kirkjubæjarklaustur from 1186-1550.
The statue in my photo above is located in the middle of the village. It is called Byrði sögunnar - the Burden of History, by Magnús Tómasson, and I think it speaks volumes. Byrði sögunnar depicts 2 monks carrying a heavy burden on their head. This area has for sure carried several heavy burdens, f.ex. the volcanic eruption in Skaftáreldar in 1783, which was the largest volcanic eruption for millenniums on this earth.
The statue, which weighs a whopping 10 tonnes, was unveiled on the 20th of July 1997 on the Eldmessudagur - the Day of the Mass of Fire.
Systrafoss the Sisters' Falls is a beautiful waterfall right in the middle of the village. The Icelandic word systur refers to the nuns who lived in the convent at Kirkjubæjarklaustur.
The Sisters' Falls is special in that there are two equal waterfalls side by side, almost falling like two white rivers down the mountain slope.
In cold weather in wintertime the waterfall gets totally frozen, but never the less beautiful. My winter photo above was shot in the golden/red morning sun in freezing November temperatures. See how different it looks - I love it when the winter sun casts its red hue on the landscape.
The days are so short in Iceland in winter time, that the sun barely manages to rise during the darkest months.
On several occasions when I have visited Kirkjubæjarklaustur the Systrafoss waterfall couldn't be seen at all. As you can see in my photo above then there is no waterfall at all! I add this photo here as I don't want you to be looking for a waterfall all over the place (like I did once) when the waterfall is dried up ;) If there has been draught then the waterfall looks like this.
Fossá river cascades from the edge of the mountain hill from Lake Systravatn and down into the Fossárgil rift. If you look closely at my photo above you will see a huge rock just above the picnic tables. This rock, appropriately called Fossasteinn rock, plummeted into the rift in 1830 during a rare thunderstorm in Iceland.
Systravatn - Sisters' Lake
The source of the waterfall is the lake on top of the mountain, Systravatn or Sisters' Lake. The waterfall is "fed" by the overflow of the lake.
In Þjóðsögur Jóns Árnasonar - the Folklore of Jón Árnason you will find a folklore on how Systravatn - Sisters' Lake got its name.
"Above Kirkjubær you will find a beautiful mountainside with green grass up to its edge. Up on this mountain vast grassland can be found around a lake called Systravatn - Sisters' Lake, as 2 nuns from the convent went there, either both of them together or separately. An unusually beautiful golden comb is said to have been extended from the lake, and one of the nuns waded into the lake in the attempt to reach the golden comb, which proved to be too deep so she drowned.
The other nun also wanted to own the comb, but she couldn't figure out how to do so. Finally she spotted a dapple-grey horse by the lake and decided on taking it and riding it. The horse was so big that the nun couldn't mount it (Icelandic horses are smaller than other horses RHR). The horse lowered itself or knelt. She rode it into the lake and none of them, the nun, horse and the comb, have been seen ever since. Because of this the lake has been called Sisters' Lake".
(Translated into English from Þjóðsögur Jóns Árnasonar - the Folklore of Jón Árnason).
There is an easy hike from the waterfall to the lake on top of the hill, with steps taking you up to the top. It is well worth visiting the lake as well as the view from the top is very beautiful.
Systrastapi - Sisters' Rock
Systrastapi - Sisters' Rock is a distinctive, historical rock hill west of Kirkjubæjarklaustur. The hike to the rock is ca 30 minutes from the village.
It is a lovely hike, with a path just above the pastures of the farmer. Make sure to stay on the path and not go into the pastures as it is private land. In summer time it is so nice watching the sheep with their lamb grazing in the pastures.
The hike will take you right by Rauðárfoss fall, a beautiful basalt column waterfall, russet in colour due to the iron in the soil. Rauðárfoss was almost dried up, which made the beautiful basalt very apparent. Rauðárfoss literally means Red River Falls in Rauðá river.
I just stood by it in awe as the little water that was left in the waterfall made this beautiful artwork of nature glisten.
You have to tiptoe over the river here in order to get to the Sisters' Rock, which was easy to do as the small river was all but dried up.
I wanted to show it to you anyhow as it is a part of the hike to Sisters' Rock and such a beautiful waterfall.
By now we have reached the oddly shaped precipitous Sisters' Rock.
The story goes that 2 nuns were buried up on the rock after being burnt at the stake in the 14th century for breaking their vows. One of them, Katrín, is said to have sold her soul to the Devil, taken the consecrated bread (wafer - the body of Christ) to the privy and had sex with many a man - thus she was condemned to be burnt alive at the stake.
The other nun is said to have talked badly about the Pope (blasphemy) or not spoken about him with enough respect - she was burnt at the stake with Katrín.
After the Reformation in 1550 the second nun was regarded as innocent and it is said that beautiful flowers grew on her grave, while the grave of the other nun was barren. On top of Sisters' Rock 2 tussocks can be found and they are said to be the graves of the nuns.
It is possible to climb up to the top of the rock using a rope - it proved to be way too difficult for me, but my husband tried it. I would love to see the tussocks on top though one day.
For those not able to climb up to the top of Sisters' Rock then it is lovely just walking around the rock on a narrow footpath and to walk further up the river Skaftá to see where the lava actually stopped in the river. In the photo below you can see where the lava flow stopped, right before it reached Sisters' Rock and the church, which was filled with people (see my next chapter). This spot is called Eldmessutangi - the Spit of Fire.
Here is the location of Systrastapi - Sisters' Rock on the map. It is not marked correctly on Google maps, so I zoomed into it so you can see the exact location. You can even see on the map where the lava flow stopped in the river.
Skaftáreldar Volcanic Eruption
On the 8th of June 1783 the largest recorded volcanic eruption in Iceland started in Lakagígar (a row of craters) called Skaftáreldar volcanic eruption. The volcanic ash went as far as to China, Africa and America and this summer is referred to as the blue summer in Europe due to the volcanic ash from Skaftáreldar.
On the 20th of July 1783 on a Whitsunday the lava flow was only 2 km away from the church in Kirkjubæjarklaustur. People went to church fearing that this would be the last time they would see their church, as the lava headed straight for their church. On their way to church it was so hot outside and foggy due to the volcanic ash that people couldn't see the church until they stood right in front of it.
Inside the church Rev. Jón Steingrímsson, held mass. Jón was the reverend at Prestbakki at Síða east of Kirkjubæjarklaustur and served the church at Klaustur from 1778-1791. After this particular day he was called the Pastor of the Fire. There was dreadful thunder and lightnings outside. Jón and the congregation prayed to God for help with blood and tears. Their prayers were answered - a miracle happened - the lava flow stopped by Sisters' Rock! Isn't this amazing?
The mass of Rev. Jón Steingrímsson is referred to as Eldmessan or the Mass of Fire. After the Mass of Fire the congregation walked over to Systrastapi - Sisters' Rock to have a look at Eldmessutangi lava spit to see what had happened. The lava flow seems to have stopped in its track in the same place as it had been before the mass started!
There is actually another church in Iceland where a similar thing has happened, Reykjahlíðar church in Mývatn in North-Iceland.
Finally the volcanic eruption ended on February 7th 1784. Hard times followed and ice-cold winters, and what we in Iceland call Móðuharðindin - the Calamity of the Mist - which went as far as Siberia. In Scotland there was crop failure due to the mist.
In Iceland 70% of the stock died because of the mist and 10.000 people died (20% of the nation) - of famine and outbreak of diseases.
In Kirkjubæjarklaustur a chapel was erected in memory of Rev. Jón Steingrímsson next to where the old church stood. Inside the chapel you will find a model of the old church, which seems to have been quite big.
On the site of the old church west of the chapel a big white cross has been erected. A sign on the cross reads "Hér var Eldmessan 20. júlí 1783" or Here the Mass of Fire took place on the 20th of July 1783. In the graveyard you will find the old grave stone of Rev. Jón Steingrímsson (1728-1791).
This fascinating area of Iceland is one of my favourite places to visit while driving through the vast desolate sand plains of South-Iceland. Like Skaftafell it is an oasis in the middle of the vast glacial outwash. Only 5 km away from Kirkjubæjarklaustur you will find another interesting area called Landbrot. I have written about this area in my blog on Hotel Laki and its Amazing Surroundings.
Kirkjubæjarklaustur is located by ring-road 1 on Iceland’s south coast. You can rent a car in Reykjavík and make Kirkjubæjarklaustur your first overnight stay by f.ex. staying at Hotel Laki. The waterfall is by the main road of the village; just drive to its end, and you’ll see it (if it’s not dried up). The Systrastapi - Sisters' Rock is west of the village, and you will find a walking path above the pasture.
Here is the location of Systrafoss waterfall and Kirkjubæjarklaustur on the map. GPS: 63°47'12.5"N 18°03'32.2"W
There are some guided tours to Kirkjubæjarklaustur, it is f.ex. included in the South West - South East, in 4 days, the 6-Day Winter Self Drive Tour | Diamond Beach | Ice Cave tour and the South Iceland Express Private Tour.