Lakagigar Day Tour by Super Jeep

Vatnajökull glacier is the largest glacier in Europe, covering 8% of Iceland’s landmass.

It is the central feature of the Vatnajökull National park, found in the south west of Iceland, a popular spot for activities like glacier hiking from Skaftafell, boat tours in the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, and ice caving tours between November and March.

Facts about Vatnajokull

Vatnajökull has a surface area of approximately 8,100 square kilometres (3127 square miles); though it is rapidly shrinking due to climate change, its recession is not quite as advanced as at other glaciers, such as Langjökull and Mýrdalsjökull. In parts, it is a kilometre deep (over three thousand feet), and its average thickness is around half of that.

Vatnajökull also holds the tallest peak in Iceland beneath its ice; Hvannadalshnjúkur is 2,200 metres tall (7,218 feet). It also conceals some of the most active volcanoes in the country, the most notable being Grímsvötn, Öræfajökull and Bárðarbunga.

Volcanic activity in the region has occurred on and off throughout the centuries, and many geologists believe that several eruptions are overdue. If their calculations are correct, it would mean significant volcanic activity for Vatnajökull over the scope of the next half-century.

Depending on winds, this could result in worldwide consequences in terms of air-travel, agriculture and the general climate.

The glacier boasts over 30 outlet glaciers, which are channels of ice that flow out of ice caps but remain constrained on the sides of the valley. The major outlet glaciers of Vatnajökull include Dyngjujökull in the north, Breiðamerkurjökull, and Skeiðarárjökull to the south. To the west, one can find the outlet glaciers Síðujökull, Skaftárjökull and Tungnaárjökull.

Numerous rivers run out of Vatnajökull, making up some of the greatest glacial rivers in Iceland. The most notable are:

• Tungnaá (west)

• Köldukvísl (west)

• Þjórsá (west)

• Jökulsá á Fjöllum (north)

• Skjálfandafljót (north)

• Jökulsá á Brú (northeast)

• Jökulsá í Fljótsdal (northeast)

• Jökulsá í Lóni (south)

• Hornafjarðarfljót (south)

• Jökulsá á Breiðamerkursandi (south)

• Skeiðará (south)

• Núpsvötn (south)

• Hverfisfljót (south)

• Skaftá (south)

Vatnajokull National Park

Vatnajökull National Park was established in June 2008 and has slowly grown to include more and more areas. The park now covers an area of 14,141 square kilometres (5,460 square miles), 14% of the country. It is the second largest national park in Europe.

Rivers divide the highland plateau to the north of the park. The volcanic table mountain Herðubreið towers over this particular region, along with volcanoes Askja, Snæfell and Kverkfjöll.

The canyon Jökulsárgljúfur was carved out by glacial floods centuries ago. At the upper end of the canyon, you'll find Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe. Further north, the horseshoe-shaped canyon Ásbyrgi is believed to have formed when Óðinn's eight-legged horse, Sleipnir, stepped his foot down from the heavens.

East around Snæfell, one can find wetlands and ranges, home to roaming herds of wild reindeer and abundant birdlife. Steep mountain ridges make up the south side of Vatnajökull, where outlet glaciers crawl onto the lowlands. The sandy plains of Skeiðarársandur also lie to the south, and the glacial river Skeiðará runs through this vast desert.

One of Iceland's most visited landmarks in the National Park is the Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, which sits at the base of the outlet glacier Breiðamerkurjökull. Here, large icebergs that have broken off the glacier float across a vast lake before ending up in the Atlantic Ocean, or washed ashore on the nearby Diamond Beach.

This is one of the best seal-watching spots in the country.

The Future of Vatnajokull

The volume of Vatnajökull reached its peak around 1930 but has since been in a steady process of decline. Because of rising levels of global temperature, Vatnajökull has on average lost about a metre (three feet) of its thickness annually over the past 15 years.

If temperature levels continue to rise, the glacier could be all but gone nearing the end of the next century, leaving only small ice caps on top of the highest mountain summits.  

Efforts are being made to prevent what some say is the inevitable, with reforestation projects going on all around the glacier, a proven method of cooling the area. Time will tell how successful they are.

Vatnajokull and Jokulsarlon in Popular Culture

The beauty of Vatnajökull National Park has not gone unnoticed by those in film or television. Many famous scenes have been shot here, starting with James Bond: A View to Kill in 1985. Other notable films with scenes here include Batman Begins, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider, and James Bond: Die Another Day.

Most famously, however, many places in Vatnajökull have been used in the HBO Series Game of Thrones, north of the Wall. The Wall itself is constructed with CGI using shots of the glacier.

Lakagígar is a row of spectacular craters along twenty-five kilometres in the southern Icelandic Highlands, formed in the eruptions at Lakí in 1784.

These were one of the most significant and damaging eruptions in recorded history, known as 'the Fires of the River Skafta', or 'Skaftareldar' in Icelandic.

The majority of the craters are today covered in moss. The total area of the lava field they occupy is incredibly vast, and from certain vantage points in the area, you'll also be able to see the Highlands and South Coast.

Lakagígar can be accessed with a four-wheel drive vehicle in summer, and several super-jeep and hiking tours incorporate a visit to them. The craters run adjacent to the Edgjá canyon, the largest volcanic canyon in the world.

The Eruption That Formed Lakagígur

The eruption of Lakí, which began in 1783, was not only one of the most consequential events in Icelandic history but had a massive impact globally. 

The ash cloud it produced was so dense that it made ports too unsafe to access or leave, halting essential trade routes around Europe. Its effect on the climate ravaged agriculture, as did the poisons in the ash that entered the soil via rain.

Crops were destroyed and livestock depleted across the continent, with effects also being felt in Asia, North Africa and Asia; it caused a particularly devasting famine in Egypt. It is most known, however, for its impact in France. The effect on grain production there led to a shortage of bread and other essentials (leading to the legend of 'Let them eat cake'), which, alongside new ideas of liberty, equality and fraternity, stirred the population into revolt.

The French Revolution was one of the most significant events of the last millennium, propelling the ideals of liberalism above autocracy across much of the world. Though it had roots in many places, it is interesting that Lakí was one of them.

When admiring Lakagígur, therefore, know that you are not just looking at a geological marvel, but part of an incredible story entwined with human history.

While the eruption of Lakí may seem to have a 'silver lining' because of its association with the revolution, have no illusions; its consequences were devasting at home. A third of Icelanders died, either from famine after livestock was all but wiped out or poison from the ash in their air and their food. A further third emigrated, mostly to Canada and North America.

Eldgjá is the largest volcanic canyon in the world, located in the south of Iceland.

• Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo by Ilya Grigorik

At 270 metres at its deepest, 600 metres at its widest, and around 40 km long, Eldgjá covers a significant part of the country. It stretches from Landmannalaugar, a popular hot-spring and hiking area in the Icelandic Highlands, to Kirkjubæjarklaustur, a village with a long religious history on the South Coast.

First Eruption at Eldgja

Eldjá’s first recorded eruption in 939 was an incredibly powerful one. It produced the largest flood of basalt of all time; it is estimated that 18 kilometres cubed of lava was released, which spread over an area of around 800 square kilometres.

The effects at home and abroad were dramatic. In Iceland, which had only been settled for less than half a century, it was used by Christian forces to warn of the wrath of God against the pagan beliefs of the Old Norse. Documents from as far back as 961 AD confirm this, where its effects are exaggerated to Biblical proportions.

Of course, the eruption would have devastated growing agriculture at the time, as well as decimated the forests surrounding it. Iceland was actually very forested at this time,  but eruptions like this one, and the mini-Ice Age that followed them, have left it one of the most barren countries on earth.

Further afield, it was even more impactful. Temperatures as far as Central Asia dropped two degrees, and the ash cloud made 940 AD the coolest summer in 1,500 years.

It is little wonder, therefore, why Eldgjá translates to ‘Fire Canyon’.

Sites At Eldgja

The canyon lies parallel with the Lakagígar craters, a major attraction in the Icelandic Highlands, which were formed in a similarly consequential eruption, called Laki, in 1783. Here, twenty-five dramatic craters sit in a row, surrounded by spectacular lava.

Another major attraction at Eldgjá is Ófærufoss, a beautiful, two-stream waterfall that can be hiked to. It flows from the river Ófærá.

Katla is one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, located underneath Iceland’s fourth largest ice cap, Mýrdalsjökull. Since settlement, it has erupted, on average, once every fifty years, with the last eruption in 1918. It is long overdue.

Katla is connected to Eyjafjallajökull, which erupted in 2010 and caused widespread disruption to air traffic, as well as changes in climate. Usually, Katla is triggered by an eruption here, usually going off within the decade afterwards. Kristín Jónsdóttir said in 2016 that it was ‘a matter of when, not if’ Iceland would face the wrath of Katla once more.

Katla means ‘Kettle’ in Icelandic, and many women are named after the volcano with it being one of the more popular girl’s names.

Geography and geology of Katla

Katla is located on Iceland’s South Coast, north of the village of Vík. Its peak is 1,512 metres (4,961 feet) above sea level, and its crater is 10 kilometres (6.2 miles) wide. The ice of Mýrdalsjökull is, 700 metres (2,300 feet) thick at certain points over it.

Because of this huge amount of ice, some smaller eruptions do not even break the surface. However, even these can be very dangerous, as they can still cause unexpected floods as the melted water seeps from under the glacier. One only needs to see the black sand desert of Sólheimasandur to see how much life can thrive in the glacial outwash plain under Katla.

Because of the floods caused by Katla, Iceland’s South Coast has very few settlements. Floods such as these have wiped out entire villages before.

The floods following the 1918 eruption were particularly powerful, clearing away huge swathes of land. The lava that followed, however, was so voluminous that it extended the southern coastline over five kilometres (eight miles) out to sea.

Though Eyjafjallajökull and Katla have a relationship of exploding in quick succession, they are part of different volcanic systems. Katla’s system has an area of 595 square kilometres (230 square miles), and is connected to the Eldgjá canyon.

Tours on Katla

Katla is beneath the peak of Mýrdalsjökull, which is surrounded by outlet glaciers, making tours on it few and far between - after all, it is very difficult to reach. Some helicopter tours, however, will make a landing here. Some super jeep tours also take the bumpy but beautiful path to the top.

It should be noted that there are ice caves above Katla, which are accessible for longer throughout the year than the ice caves at Vatnajökull. These ones, however, do not have blue ice.

Where to see Katla

Katla can be seen from the Ring Road, which encircles Iceland, by travelling along the South Coast, so long as the weather is clear. It will be visible for much of the drive, which also takes you passed features such as the waterfall Seljalandsfoss and the black sand beach of Reynisfjara.

It can also be viewed when visiting one of the glacier tongues of Mýrdalsjökull, such as Sólheimajökull, the most popular outlet for glacier hiking.

Mýrdalsjökull is a glacier in the south of the Icelandic highlands. It is the country's fourth largest ice cap, covering nearly 600 square kilometres (232 square miles), and its highest peak is almost 1500 meters tall. It is most well-known for sitting atop the notorious and explosive volcano, Katla.

Mýrdalsjökull is visible from Route 1 on the South Coast, sitting to the north of the village of Vík. It is visited on some snowmobiling, ice caving and helicopter tours, and one of its glacial outlets, Sólheimajökull, is the most popular place in the country for ice-climbing and glacier hiking.

Eruptions beneath Myrdalsjokull

Since 2010, the world has known of the volcano beneath Eyjafjallajökull; after all, it halted European air travel for over a week and stumped news readers everywhere. Few, however, are aware of the much larger volcano right beside it.

Mýrdalsjökull conceals Katla, one of the country’s most active volcanoes, having erupted, on average, once every fifty years since 930 AD. Because of the glacier above it, these eruptions tend to cause enormous ash clouds. It is these ash clouds that lead to flights being grounded, crops and livestock poisoned, and have the potential to change the world’s climate.

The last major eruption beneath Katla was in 1918, in which such huge lahar floods occurred that the southern coastline was extended five kilometres outwards. This area is also very susceptible to glacial floods, or 'jökulhlaup', during eruptions, even when the lava does not break through the surface of the ice. These are as dangerous as the lava itself, having wiped out whole Icelandic villages before.

Historically, the area was little settled for this reason.

Katla is connected to the same volcanic system as Eyjafjallajökull and usually erupts violently a few years after Eyjafjallajökull does. As the ex-president, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson said in 2010:

So it is currently several years overdue. Katla is monitored heavily, and roads around it closed when seismic activity increases. All road closures around Iceland can be found on Road and Coastal Administration's website.

Tours on Myrdalsjokull

While there are no eruptions immediately imminent, tours continue to run onMýrdalsjökull, allowing visitors to enjoy the glacier. It is, for example, possible to snowmobile across its surface throughout the year and take ice caving tours beneath it throughout the year, with departures from both Reykjavík and Vík.

Considering the ice caves under Vatnajökull glacier are usually only accessible from November to March, this provides a wider window of opportunity for travellers to Iceland outside of the depths of winter. It should be noted that the caves in Mýrdalsjökull do not have the same blue ice, however.

Tours around Myrdalsjokull

Mýrdalsjökull can be seen on all South Coast tours that reach Vík and beyond in clear weather. It can also be seen from above on helicopter tours that depart from Reykjavík.

The best perspectives of the glacier, however, can be found on the popular Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail, which goes between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull. Part of this hike can be done in a day, or you can take the complete route from Þórsmörk to Skógar on a three-day trek

Oraefajokull is a glacier volcano in South-East Iceland. On its north-western side is Iceland's highest peak, Hvannadalshnjukur (2109 m).

Oraefajokull, which has several glacier tounges of its own, is considered a part of the larger Vatnajokull and thus belongs to Vatnajokull National Park. It has erupted twice, in 1362 and 1727.

The vast Eldhraun lava field (“Fire Lava“), in the south of the Icelandic highlands, was created in one of the greatest eruptions in recorded history and is of the largest of its kind in the world. The Lakagigar craters were also created during this eruption.

This eruption lasted from 1783 to 1784 and is known as the Skaftáreldar (The Skaftá River Fires). This was a cataclysmic event for Iceland and beyond. In Iceland, it lead to disease, crop failure and disasters.

The eruption affected Europe as well. In Great Britain, that summer is known as the Sand-Summer in Great Britain due to the fallout of ash and it is believed that the airborne haze and blocking of sunlight may have contributed to the French Revolution.

Despite the abysmal effect the eruption had, this lava field of 565 km2 is today one of the most stunningly attractive ones in Iceland.

The area features one of the most magnificent lava tube systems in the country, located north of the Lake Laufbalavatn. More than 200 caves have been found there, extending for more than five kilometers and 14 cu. meters.

Fjaðrárgljúfur is a beautiful, dramatic canyon in South Iceland, close to the historic town of Kirkjubæjarklaustur.

Fjaðrárgljúfur is little known and is thus far less crowded than other sites in the area, such as Skaftafell nature reserve, and Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. Its beauty and isolation make it a dream location for photographers and hikers alike.

Though the valley was only formed at the end of the last ice age approximately 10,000 years ago, the bedrock here is much older, dating back two million years. The ravine was created by the runoff from a glacial lake, which wore away the soft stone and left only the more resistant rocks behind.

Geography of Fjaðrárglúgur

Fjaðrárglúgur is about 100 metres (328 feet) deep and 2 km (1.25 mi) long, with sheer walls dotted with many waterfalls.

It is possible to walk along the ridges above, or in the valley itself. The site is popular amongst photographers for the contrasts between the dark rocks, foaming waters and verdant moss. Of course, if the midnight sun or northern lights are out, it is a shutterbug’s paradise.

If taking the route along ridges of the valley, look up as well as down, as, in clear weather, you will attain great views of the South Coast, Highlands, and surrounding glaciers.

If taking the latter route, know that the river Fjaðrá runs through the canyon, and though its waters are often shallow, those exploring may have to wade through it. While this is safe, you will want either waterproof, sturdy boots, or sandals with a strap on the back that you can easily change in and out of.

This tributary runs into the greater Skaftá river.

Fjaðrárglúgur’s Surroundings

The closest settlement to Fjaðrárglúgur is Kirkjubæjarklaustur, often nicknamed Klaustur by locals. This is a place with a long religious history; it was home to the country’s first convent, and is said to be the only place in the country that the Old Norse faith was never practiced.

Many local sites are named after the nuns who once lived in the area, such as Systrastapi (Sister’s Rock) and Systrafoss (Sister’s Falls).

Fjaðrárglúgur is a great place to stop for those travelling the South Coast as they make their way from Reykjavík or Vík towards Skaftafell and the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.

The South Coast itself is lined with other features to visit during your travel. These include the dramatic waterfalls Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss; the former is famed for its scale, and the latter for the fact that you can walk all around it.

You will also see sites such the beach Reynisfjara, with its great sea-stacks, Reynisdrangar, said to be trolls frozen in the light of the morning sun. Other coastal features include the Dyrhólaey cliffs and arch, which is a paradise for birdwatchers in summer, due to the fact that it is home to thousands of nesting puffins.

The South Coast can be explored in a day, but to get to all the sites and enjoy them properly, visitors are encouraged to spend two or three days in the region.

Photo by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir

Kirkjubæjarklaustur (referred to locally as ‘Klaustur’) is a village of approximately 120 inhabitants in the Skaftárhreppur municipality of South Iceland.

Situated by the Ring Road, approximately 250 km (155 miles) east of Reykjavík, Klaustur is one of the few villages providing amenities such as fuel, shops, a bank and a supermarket between Vík í Mýrdal and Höfn.

History

The history of Kirkjubæjarklaustur differs, in many respects, to the traditional Icelandic settlement. “Papar”, the Icelandic title for travelling Irish monks, were thought to have settled the area long before the Norsemen.

In that tradition, it was claimed that pagans of no kind would set foot in Klaustur; this was a strictly Christian area.

Stories have permeated, with one telling of a pagan, Hildir Eysteinsson, who attempted to move there in the 10th Century. Upon setting foot across the border, he fell instantly dead and was buried on the neighbouring hill, Hildishaugur (“Hildir’s Mound.”)

Despite twisting the tongue, the full village name 'Kirkju-bæjar-klaustur' actually tells the story of the area well; 'Kirkju' means church, 'bæjar' means farm and 'klaustur' means convent.

The word 'Klaustur' was added to the original name 'Kirkjubær' in 1186 AD when a convent of Benedictine nuns settled there.

In the 364 years leading to the Reformation in 1550 AD, Klaustur did much for the oral history of South Iceland. Systrastapi (Sister’s Rock), the Systrafoss waterfall and lake Systravatn all take their names from the nun’s settlement.

Folklore

Photo by Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir

The lore relating to these sites are rich in tales of religious heresy, superstition and death.

Sister’s Rock, for instance, has been said to be the burial site of two nuns executed for sinful behaviour. The nuns were accused of all sorts of behaviour, including selling their soul to the devil, removing communion bread from church, carnal knowledge with men, and blasphemy toward the pope.

Guilty or not, the nuns were swiftly burned at the stake.

Following the Reformation, one of the nuns was vindicated for her actions, and it is said that flowers soon bloomed on top of her grave. The other’s grave has remained barren, a continuing reminder of the lady’s ethereal disapproval.

Nearby attractions

Despite its petite size, Klaustur is a critical crossroads to the attractions nestled at the centre of the island, namely the Laki Craters in Vatnajökull National Park and the Landmannalaugar hiking trails in the scenic Fjallabak Nature Reserve. Only a few kilometres from the village itself lies the spectacular Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon.

A short walk east of Kirkjubæjarlaustur will take you to the fascinating Kirkjugólfið “Church Floor”, an 80 square metre flat of basalt columns, shaped and formed naturally by the tide and glacial melts. The aforementioned Sisters Rocks and Sisters Waterfalls can be walked to from the village as well.

These three sites are little known of, so should be visited by those avoiding the crowds.

Due to its location on the South Coast, Klaustur is visited or passed through by those travelling to the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Skaftafell Nature Reserve or ice caves, or those encircling the whole country.

Wikimedia. Creative Commons. Credit: Praveen Kumar Bodigutla

Skaftafellsjökull is a glacier tongue spurting off from Iceland's largest ice cap, Vatnajökull.

Skaftafellsjökull itself

The glacier tongue of Skaftafellsjökull sits in Skaftafell, a nature reserve in Öræfi, Vatnajökull National Park. It is one of many tongues stretching from the largest glacier in Europe, Vatnajökull itself. This ice cap covered eleven percent of the surface area of Iceland.

This reserve was once a national park in its own right, before it was enveloped into a new, much greater one. The Vatnajökull National Park was created to incorporate many other protected areas, including the Jökulsárlon glacier lagoon in the south and the Jökulsárgjlúfur canyon in the north.

It is now the largest national park in Iceland.

Skaftafellsjökull is an excellent but concerning example of how climate change is steadily affecting the glaciers in Iceland.

Over the last decade, Skaftafellsjökull has been receding dramatically, only strengthening the argument that environmental policies must look to preserve Iceland's unique, important and beautiful natural features.

Many trees have been planted in the area to help absorb carbon dioxide around the glaciers, but tragically, many scientists believe that this is too little, too late.

It is possible to hike Skaftafellsjökull's surrounding area in order to secure a fantastic perspective of this glacier tongue. After checking in with the Skaftafell Visitors Centre as to the best hiking trails and conditions, guests will follow an eight kilometre (five miles) trail (there and back), up 390 metres (1,280 feet) to the waterfall, Svartifoss.

From here, you will be able to look out on the glacier and its adjacent lagoon.

Svínafellsjökull

Skaftafellsjökull and Svínafellsjökull are both glacier tongues of Vatnajökull within Skaftafell, and are often mistake for each other. For ease, the latter is often referred to as the former, though both are distinct features.

The majority of glacier hiking tours in this part of the country are in fact done on Svínafellsjökull.

Mýrdalssandur is an outwash plain located between the rivers of Kúðafljót, in the east, and Múlakvísl, in the west, both of which carry water down from the glacier, Mýrdalsjökull. Mýrdalssandur has a 35km (22mi) long coastline which includes Kötlutangi, the southernmost point of the Iceland's mainland. 

Culture

Around the year 1000, many farmers set up shop on Mýrdalssandur. By the 15th century, however, most of these farmsteads were abandoned due to violent eruptions originating from Katla volcano. Today, the area is a 700 square kilometre desert of black sand, made up of the deposits from Mýrdalsjökull ice cap and the sudden glacial floods (or jökulhaup) that run from the glacier down to the sea. Evidence of these prior floods can be seen throughout Mýrdalssandur, be it the washed out bridges or the peculiar rock erosions. Even today, farmers close to Mýrdalssandur worry that receding glaciers will cause rivers to change direction and overflow. It’s no wonder Icelanders left this region a long time ago.

The barren landscape of Mýrdalssandur has done much for folklore and superstition, with many still claiming (albeit, with a twinkle in their eye) that the black sand desert is haunted by ghosts and witches. Birdlife and arctic foxes are a relatively common sight in the region.

Attractions 

There are a number of attractions to preoccupy oneself with in Mýrdalssandur. At the beginning of the western edge, visitors can head to Sólheimasandur beach to see the famous Navy DC plane wreck. The plane crashed in 1973 after the pilot, incorrectly, assumed the plane had run out of fuel. Still, he managed to land the plane on the black sands with no casualties. The plane wreck still exists today and makes for a great stop for photographers. 

Roughly 15km east of Vik, visitors will arrive at the inselberg mountain, Hjörleifshöfði. Rising 221m (725ft) above sea level, Hjörleifshöfði was once an island though by the time of the settlement of Iceland, it was already connected to the mainland. Today, it offers a well-paced trail hike with sweeping views across the Mýrdalssandur region.

The mountain is named in a number of sagas, particularly that of Hjörleifur Hróðmarsson, of whom the mountain is named after. The brother of Ingólfur Arnarson, it was told that Hjörleifur settled at the base of the mountain in the 9th Century, but was eventually murdered by his Irish slaves. Vengeance was swift as Ingólfur pursued the assailants to Vestmannaeyjar, where they were eventually killed. Hjörleifur is said to be buried at the summit of Hjörleifshöfði. 

Driving across Mýrdalssandur will take approximately an hour, with stunning views of Vatnajökull glacier and regular picnic stops. Recently, Mýrdalssandur was used as a filming location for the opening scenes of Star Wars: Rogue One, depicted as the planet Lah’mu. 

The South Coast of Iceland is one of the most popular parts of the country for travellers. South Iceland is lined with countless natural wonders including cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, glaciers and black sand beaches.

This incredible South Shore of Iceland stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east. It’s possible to incorporate a trip to The Golden Circle before heading South. This is another popular area with visitors to Iceland. Here you can see Þingvellir (or Thingvellir) National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, a volcanic crater called Kerið, and one of Iceland's biggest waterfalls; Gulfoss.

Highlights of the South Coast of Iceland

The South Coast offers an array of natural wonders that draw thousands of visitors each day.

The whole area is geologically very young, formed during the last Ice Age by the lava flows from numerous volcanoes in the area. The lowlands are surrounded by volcanically active mountains, notably Eyjafjallajökull and Hekla. If you stop at Hveragerði, you can visit the Quake 2008 exhibition where you can witness the split in the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.

In terms of culture in the South, it is rich and diverse. Most towns have amateur groups for theatre, poetry reading, and choir song. Community is a big part of an Icelander’s life and one of the key things that help them get through the winter months. The South was once home to the ancient bishop seat of Skálholt. Also, Iceland's most famous saga, Njal's Saga, takes place in the region.

When driving the South Coast route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. These falls which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean from these beautiful cascades. Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall. 

Skógar, which is home to Skogafoss waterfall, has a very interesting museum that discusses some of the nation’s history and culture. One of Iceland’s most famous hiking trails, Fímmvörðuháls, cuts through the area and is worth the walk if you have time.

A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull glacier, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the glacier tongue, Sólheimajökull.

This landscape has also been shaped by volcanic eruptions, although these were much more recent. Vast expanses of the black sand stretch from the Highlands to the sea, part of several glacial outwash plains that flood during a volcanic eruption. One such sandplain, Sólheimasandur, is home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck.

The Dyrhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.

Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, which is home to basalt columns and the Reynisdrangar rock formations. These pillars are said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun. 

Though beautiful, this area is notorious for its dangerous sneaker waves. Even on seemingly calm and still days, visitors should keep a distance from the shoreline. There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.

After passing through Vík you will cross the glacial sandplain of Skeiðarársandur before entering Vatnajökull National Park. Here you can see Vatnajokull Glacier, Iceland’s largest glacier. Many ice cave tours take place in Vatnajokull in the winter months.

Move on to the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve in the National Park. Here you can enjoy a diversity of landscapes and terrains. The area was considered a National Park in its own right because it was so beautiful.

Finally, you will approach the famous Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon, a deep lake that fills with icebergs as the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier slowly breaks down. Here there are plenty of options for boat tours that take you around the lagoon and up close to icebergs. A short distance from Jökulsárlón you will find the Diamond Beach, where blue icebergs wash on the black-sand beach, and another glacier lagoon called Fjallsárlón.

Geography, Nature & Wildlife

The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Ring Road (Route 1), which encircles Iceland. The area is made up of diverse landscapes; marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.

Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Reaching several hundred metres offshore, it provides a protective factor to the lowland as ocean waves crash upon it. This results in the South Shore being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shoreline.

Unlike most early Icelandic settlements, few of the communities in the south were based on fishing. The only town with a significant harbour in the south is Þorlákshöfn, where the ferry to the Westman Islands leaves. Some agriculture is found here, with farms nestled in the mountains, but because of the glacial floods, they are few and far between.

There are, however, plenty of hot springs in the area. The most famous is the Blue Lagoon Spa which is close to Keflavik airport. The lagoon formed as a result of the overflow from a nearby power plant.

However, there are lots of natural geothermal hot springs in more remote locations, where you can avoid the crowds and have a more natural experience. Some of the spots travellers recommend are Seljavallalaug, which is close to Skogar, and Reykjadalur, the Valley of Steam, which is close to Hveragerði.

The South region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey. 

You may be able to spot North Atlantic puffins nesting on the cliffs between May and August. In summer there are 2-3 times as many Arctic Tern as Icelanders so you are bound to spot some of them on your travels. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.  

Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.

In terms of sports; horse riding is popular, as is fishing, hiking, snorkelling, sightseeing and river rafting.

Credit: Wikimedia, Creative Commons. Photo by Nave111.

Fagrifoss (the Beautiful Waterfall) is located in southeast Iceland near the Lakagígar volcanic region. The falls rest along the 4x4 road F206, approximately 24 km (15 mi) from the small town Kirkjubæjarklaustur and 40 km (25 mi) from the Laki crater. 

What makes Fagrifoss particularly attractive is its smooth brink and the segmented plunge in which its lower end slants, giving the falling water at its base a beautiful fan shape. Only adding to the falls beauty is its contrast with the raw landscapes in which it is nestled.

To reach the Fagrifoss, travellers must cross a small river and a 4x4 vehicle is needed for the crossing.