This travel blog is part III in a series of travel blogs about my travels around the magical Snæfellsnes peninsula, and a direct continuation of my travel blog, The Magical Snæfellsnes Peninsula Part II.
There is just so much to see and do here that I have created five travel blogs about my journey around the peninsula. I love Snæfellsnes and want to show you all it has to offer :)
Top photo: By Snæfellsjökull glacier
Driving on Jökulháls between Arnarstapi and Ólafsvík
In my last travel blog, I showed you the area from Lóndrangar volcanic plugs to Öndverðarnes, the westernmost point of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
We are now driving along Road 574 toward Hellissandur village. There are several points of interest on the way. Let's turn left onto a paved road by these two signs: Gufuskálavör and Írskrabrunnur.
Írskrabrunnur - the Well of the Irish 
Írskrabrunnur - the Well of the Irish on Snæfellsnes peninsula
We are going to explore both of these locations mentioned on the sign, but first, we will visit the Írskrabrunnur - the Well of the Irish, and turn left by a fork in the road.
Írskrabrunnur - the Well of the Irish is quite an old well on the west side of Snæfellsnes, which dates back to the Settlement of Iceland in the year 874, give or take a few years. Or even predates the Settlement of Iceland.
Írskrabrunnur - the Well of the Irish
The Well of the Irish was the water supply in this area, Gufuskálar, for centuries until it was buried under sand and lost from sight from 1948 to 1989.
I refer you to my travel blog about Gufuskálar & Írskrabrunnur Well for more information on this area and how it was rediscovered after being hidden for a long time.
Gufuskálar & Írskrabrunnur - the Well of the Irish on Snæfellsnes Peninsula in West Iceland
Írskrabrunnur - the Well of the Irish on Snæfellsnes peninsula
There is now a fence around the well to protect it, and 16 steps leading down into it. You will notice a huge whalebone in the opening - the story of which you can read in my side-blog.
Let's now have a look at Írskrabyrgi or the Shelter of the Irish, which is just a few meters away from the Irish well.
The stacking of the lava rocks is very even with an entrance to it. We don't know what it was used for, maybe a church, maybe not?
The Shelter of the Irish
From the Shelter of the Irish, there is a good view of the shoreline and the sea. I spotted "something" running on the rocky beach.
I zoomed in on it, and "it" turned out to be a small mink carrying a fish much bigger than itself! The mink ran happily away, holding this big hrognkelsi - lumpfish to its home.
Minks are not native to Iceland; they escaped from mink farms and are now a part of Iceland's wildlife.
A mink I spotted
Now let's go back to the car, drive to the fork in the road, and take the road to Gufuskálavör. There are 700 meters or a 10-minute walk from the Well of the Irish to Gufuskálavör.
Here is the location of the Well of the Irish on the map.
Gufuskálavör landing
Gufuskálavör landing
At Gufuskálavör, you will find an old fishing station dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries. Here are the ruins of fishermen's huts, fish storage huts, and farm ruins.
Down by the beach, you will see wakes in the stones as the keels of the rowboats left grooves behind. I have written more detailed information about Gufuskálavör in a separate travel blog.
A rock by the sea is a monument to the last woman to live at Gufuskálar, Elínborg Þorbjarnardóttir (1860-1947), but she lived there from 1898 until 1946.
A monument at Gufuskálar
Remains of old fishermen's huts were discovered inside a sandy hill at Gufuskálar with human habitation signs in the layers of the debris.
A turned chessman from the 14th-15th century, made of bone, was discovered in the oldest layer of the debris.
These antiquities are very close to the sea, so there is a real danger that the sea might erode them, making us lose these significant historical remains :(
Gufuskálar ruins
Now let's check out the old Fiskbyrgi - the fish drying sheds of Gufuskálar - which are located on the other side of road 574, much further away from the sea. Drive back to Road 574 and look for the sign below.
There, you turn right and drive up a short gravel road to leave your car.
Fiskbyrgin á Gufuskálum - the Fish Drying Sheds at Gufuskálar
Fiskbyrgin á Gufuskálum - the Fish Drying Sheds at Gufuskálar
Above Gufuskálar, you will see a sign Fiskbyrgi, meaning fish drying sheds. These fish-drying sheds are old and made of lava rocks, of which there is plenty in this area below the Snæfellsjökull glacier.
There are information signs by the parking lot and a path leading through the lava field up to a fish-drying shed.
It is so strange walking in this area amongst the myriad old fish-drying sheds, thinking about the vibrant fishing community that is now past.
Fiskbyrgin á Gufuskálum - the Fish Drying Sheds at Gufuskálar
I am so glad that the fish drying sheds were left here and not destroyed - they are of great cultural importance to us as they are ancient, 500-700 years old or even older, which is old for Iceland - they were protected in 1969.
There are some speculations that they might not have been fish-drying sheds, but prayer chapels of the Irish.
The path led me up to the fish-drying shed in the photo above. These sheds are like little cottages, really, and blend in perfectly with the landscape. These sheds are protected antiquities, so let's be careful here.
Fiskbyrgin á Gufuskálum - the Fish Drying Sheds at Gufuskálar
It is forbidden to enter them, as they are not safe and protected, but you can peek inside on your hands and knees.
I visited only one fish-drying shed, but there are about 150-200 others dotted around the lava field (Skúli Alexandersson counted 167). To my knowledge, these old fish-drying sheds are the most extensive and best-preserved antiquities of this kind in Northern Europe.
It is believed that most of these sheds date back to the 15th or 16th century, but back then, stockfish was Iceland's most significant export to both England and the towns of the Hanseatic League.
You can maybe see holes in the rocks in my photo above, but these holes let the wind blow through the sheds, which kept the fish from rotting and helped with the process of drying the fish.
A ptarmigan leading me away from its chicks.
You may also notice that the walls are leaning towards the top of the shed. This building method is called "borghleðsla" in Icelandic.
These sheds are easy to access; it is only a 5-10 minute walk to the one I peeked into. Let's keep to the path, as this is a lava field with many hidden holes covered by moss.
It is easy to break one's leg in such lava fields - we Icelanders are warned of this danger from a very early age, and I want to pass this warning on to our foreign visitors.
I saw a ptarmigan hiding in the lava field, with many chicks that blended seamlessly into the landscape. They got startled when I walked by them, and the chicks ran all over the place while their mother tried to lure me away from them.
The ptarmigan was pretending to be injured.
I followed her so she wouldn't think that I was going to hurt her chicks, and I found it so cute when she looked for me when I stopped.
She had hidden behind a lava rock, then stretched her neck, and I could see her looking for me, wondering why I hadn't followed her. So cute and as not to scare her, I kept following her :)
I both respect and feel sorry for the ptarmigan. This bird stays in Iceland year-round and changes colour with the seasons - in the summertime, it is dappled, but in wintertime, it becomes white to blend in with the snow.
At this point, the ptarmigan felt that I was at a safe distance from its chicks.
The reason I feel sorry for the ptarmigan is that it stands out when there isn't enough snow to hide in. Also, during the change, it is half white and half dappled, and it doesn't blend in at all.
A lovely bird, which is hunted for a traditional Christmas dinner.
The National Park Center at Hellissandur
The new National Park Center by Hellissandur
The Visitor Center has relocated from Malarrif to Hellissandur, adjacent to the Sjómannagarður Museum.
Here you will find an information desk, a souvenir shop, a caféteria, and plenty of toilets open 24/7, which is always a plus when travelling.
You can have your coffee or food from the restaurant on the terrace, with a fantastic view of the Snæfellsjökull glacier!
The view from the terrace is of Snæfellsjökull glacier and a vast lava field.
The park rangers have their offices at the National Park Center, and here you can find all the information you need for your visit to the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
Opening hours are daily from 10:00 to 16:00.
Here you can find accommodations in and around Hellissandur: the best accommodations in Hellissandur and Rif.
Hellissandur Village & the Maritime Museum in the Fishermen's Garden
Sjómannagarður park and museum
Hellissandur is one of the villages on the north side of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. Until now, we have not encountered a proper village, as it were, but now we have reached the first of five villages on the peninsula.
Hellissandur used to be a big fishing centre, and in the year 1700, there were some 60 seasonal fishermen's huts here.
The population of Hellissandur and the small village next to it, Rif, which we will explore next, is now combined at approximately 544.
Hellissandur Village & the Maritime Museum in the Fishermen's Garden
Almost every town and village in Iceland has its own museum. Hellissandur's museum is the Fisherman's Garden and Maritime Museum, which you will see on your right-hand side as you enter the village.
You can read about this interesting museum in my travel blog on the Fisherman's Garden in Hellissandur.
The statue Jöklarar by Ragnar Kjartansson
Here is the location of Hellissandur on the map. Since leaving Reykjavík, we have driven around 195 km, not counting the detours we have taken.
The beautiful murals in Hellissandur village
My favourite mural in Hellissandur
Now, let's drive through the small village of Hellissandur and view the marvellous murals for which the village is famous.
You will see murals on many houses and buildings all over the village, but the most famous artworks are on the old freezing plant by the sea.
There are many beautiful murals in Hellissandur, but I like the one in the photo above the most. It depicts Bárður Snæfellsás, the Protector of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
Artwork on the walls of the freezing plant
Kári Viðarsson, the owner of Frystiklefinn - the Freezer at Rif, a small theatre in the nearby village, got the idea to create an outdoor art gallery in Hellissandur.
There had been a fire at the freezing plant in Hellissandur, and it looked like a stain on the village.
Kári invited 10 artists from around the world - and ended up with more than 30 beautiful murals that beautify both the freezing plant and the village.
A mural on the wall tells us about Fróðárundrin - it has been repainted
Some of the artwork on the freezing plant tells us about events that took place here on the Snæfellsnes peninsula, like the one above about Fróðarundrin - the Fróðá-Haunted, which took place nearby around the year 1,000.
It is a horrible ghost story, which I translated for you from Eyrbyggja Saga:
Fróðárheiði Heath & the Fróðá Wonders - Icelandic Folklore: Ghosts and Zombies in the Viking Age!
This mural tells us about Axlar-Björn - it has also been repainted
Other murals tell us about Iceland's only serial killer, Axlar-Björn, whom I have also told you about in another travel blog:
Iceland's Only Serial Killer - the Bloody Story of the Homicidal Axlar-Björn
Yes, there is so much history on Snæfellsnes, which is why I have had to write a travel blog series about the peninsula, and I feel like I have only just touched the surface.
Murals on the old freezing plant
We walked further on and crossed the bridge over the creek, as we wanted to walk Ástarbrautin - the Love Street.
The Love Street in Hellissandur
With Ómar on Love Street
Ómar Lúðvíksson created Ástarbraut - Love Street by the sea in Hellissandur behind his house on Keflavíkurgata 7.
Along Love Street, you will see a beautiful little replica of a turf house and a turf church, made by Ómar.
The rock by the turf house is an elf rock, in which elves seem to reside. I have written about many elf locations in Iceland in other travel blogs, and another travel blog about all the turf houses in Iceland, if you are interested in our folklore and old habitations.
An elf rock by Love Street
It is so beautiful and well-made, kudos to him for a job well done. He must be a perfectionist, as everything is so tidy and perfect :)
You will also find an elf rock with many faces in Ómars garden by Love Street.
Ómar was in his garden, and he gave us a guided tour of his work, both on Love Street and in his garden. He invited us in and showed us old artefacts in his home.
An elf rock in Ómar's garden - look at the bright red house with the mural across the street
He told us stories about an elf rock in his garden and more elf rocks in Hellissandur.
The rock in my photo below is close to Ómar's home. It is an elf rock by Dvergasteinn. Ómar told us that elf children had been seen playing by this rock.
I would for sure want to know more stories about the elves in Hellissandur
An elf rock in Hellissandur
We drove around the village and stopped the car in many places, as there were so many beautiful murals all over.
I took photos of them all, and wish I could show them to you as they are so colourful and cheerful.
I added one photo of what I call the heart of every village in Iceland, Minnismerki um drukknaða sjómenn - the Memorial for Drowned Fishermen, and paid my respect.
Don't miss visiting Hellissandur, it is a delightful village :)
A memorial for fishermen at Hellissandur, Beðið í von - Waiting and hoping.
Next, let's have a look at one historical site, Ingjaldshóll, before visiting the small village of Rif.
Midway between these two villages, you turn right from road 574 and drive up Ingjaldshólskirkja road by the sign below ;)
Ingjaldshóll
The Ingjaldshóll sign
Ingjaldshóll on the Snæfellsnes peninsula is a historical site in Iceland; it was a former settlement manor and assembly site.
Christopher Columbus seems to have stayed at Ingjaldshóll during the winter of 1477-78. It is believed that he was here to obtain tips and information from the Vikings, Leif the Lucky, and co., who had already discovered America before he set out on his journey west.
The current church at Ingjaldshóll is the world's oldest concrete church!
I have written a side travel blog about the historical Ingjaldshóll, with additional information about this site.
At Ingjaldshóll
Here is the location of Ingjaldshólskirkja church on the map, and if you zoom out, you will see that it is located right between Hellissandur and Rif.
The Village Rif and Björnssteinn Stone
Björnssteinn stone
Rif is one of the small villages in the northern part of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, between Hellissandur, which is only 2 km away, and Ólafsvík.
Rif is a small village, but it was once one of the main trading ports on the peninsula, and you will still see many fishing boats here in the harbour. Even though this village is small now, it remains a historical site.
There is one place in Rif that is declared as protected - the Björnssteinn stone. The story behind this stone is that in 1467, on this spot, Björn the Rich Þorleifsson (around 1408-1467) was beheaded by English merchants.
Björnssteinn stone
In 1455, Björn and his wife, Ólöf the Rich Loftsdóttir from Skarð, the wealthiest couple in Iceland at the time, were on a tour when they were kidnapped by Scottish pirates and brought to Scotland.
The Danish King, Christian I, paid their ransom and appointed Björn governor of Iceland, a seneschal, and a knight of the Danish king.
Björn was tasked with preventing the illegal English trade in Iceland, and he and his wife carried out this task diligently.
Björnssteinn rock
So diligently that the English ended up beheading Björn at Rif.
His body is then supposed to have been cut into seven pieces, which were salted into barrel-like herrings.
The barrel was then sent to his wife, Ólöf the Rich.
Ólöf the Rich avenged the death of her husband, and famous are her words: "Eigi skal gráta Björn bónda, heldur safna liði..." - meaning "Shed no tears for my husband Björn, but gather men..." 
The dent in Björnssteinn's stone
I think almost every Icelander off-age knows this quote. Björn was not the only one to be beheaded, as 7 of his men were killed as well.
You will see the place where Björn was beheaded and a dent in the stone made by the axe - see my photo above.
The Björnssteinn stone was unearthed by the locals, who then stacked a stone wall around it. I found this information in a Research Report of the Department of Archaeology at the National Museum of Iceland.
My husband had to stand on his toes while peeking into the dent in Björnssteinn rock.
Ólöf, by now the wealthiest person in Iceland, avenged her husband and waged war against the English traders in Iceland.
She imprisoned 50 Englishmen and kept them in a lodge opposite her mansion at Skarð and enslaved them.
She forced them to build a fence all around Skarð and a rock pavement, which can still be seen there. She then had them killed.
Ólöf as depicted in the alabaster artwork from the 15th century at Skarðskirkja church on Skarðsströnd in West Iceland
In 1473, the Danish king Christian I forbade the English from sailing to Iceland or trading with the Icelanders without his special permission.
I have written about my ancestors, Ólöf the Rich and Björn, in my travel blog about Fellsströnd and Skarðsströnd.
While visiting Skarð at Skarðsströnd, the farmer showed us the church there and told us this story. Ólöf was for sure a force to be reckoned with.
The triptych at Skarðskirkja church
The farmer at Skarð told us that Björn is believed to be buried beneath a rock on the south side of the church.
It is well worth visiting the off-the-beaten-path Skarðsströnd and Fellsströnd, which are known as the Golden Saga Circle of Iceland.
The road by Rif was once painted to deter Arctic terns from sitting on it.
If you are travelling by Rif in the summertime, be warned that there is a large Arctic tern colony in this area, my least favourite Icelandic migrating bird.
The Arctic terns sit on the road and only fly up when the car is about to hit them. One has to be careful not to hit the chicks, as they cannot fly away; they only run.
As you can see in my photo above, the part of road 574 leading to Rif was once painted bright green and bright red to deter Arctic terns from resting on the road, thereby reducing the risk of the birds and their chicks being run over by passing cars.
A painted message on the road by Rif
Now, a painted message on the road reads: "Drive carefully, birds on the road."
I have seen many a chick being run over. Sometimes it looks like a bird massacre :(
They are grey, fluffy, and adorable, really, but then they turn into a lean bird that thinks it is a fighter plane and fearlessly attacks you.
I shot this video of the Arctic tern attacking us in the Westfjords of Iceland.
Here is the location of Rif on the map.
Now let's continue along road 574 toward another larger village nearby, Ólafsvík, which is 10 km from Hellissandur and thus about 8 km from Rif.
Svöðufoss waterfall
Svöðufoss waterfall
On the way to Ólafsvík, just outside of Rif, you will notice a pretty waterfall. Its name is Svöðufoss waterfall, and you can drive close to it and walk to an observation platform.
The observation platform by the river gives a good view of Svöðufoss, but it is still a bit far away. I would love to get closer to the waterfall, but that is not an option.
In the summer of 2025, a woman fell 5 meters from the cliffs!
I am grateful that at least a platform and a picnic area have been put up so that we can enjoy Svöðufoss.
Ólafsvík town
Ólafsvík village on the Snæfellsnes peninsula
The next place we are going to visit on the north side of the Snæfellsnes peninsula is called Ólafsvík.
Ólafsvík is a lovely little fishing town with a population of around 1,100.
An old storehouse dating back to 1844 in the center of town is now a museum and information center.
Ólafsvikurkirkja church in Ólafsvík village on the Snæfellsnes peninsula
One of Ólafsvík's landmarks is the white, modern-looking church, Ólafsvíkurkirkja. It looks like a ship, but if you look at it from above, it seems like outspread salted cod!
As in other fishing villages and towns in Iceland, there is a monument in remembrance of fishermen and those lost at sea. I call these monuments the heart of each village and town, and always visit them and pay my homage.
I have written a side-travel blog about Ólafsvík village & the beautiful bridal veil Bæjarfoss falls, with additional information about this area.
The view dial above Ólafsvík village
I would recommend a short hike to Bæjarfoss waterfall, which has a 50-meter drop.
Above Ólafsvík, you will also find a view-dial offering a fantastic view of Ólafsvík and the surrounding area.
Bæjarfoss is a beautiful waterfall that looks like a thin bridal veil.
Here is the location of Ólafsvík on the map.
Bæjarfoss waterfall - it is always in the shadow every time I visit Ólafsvík
By now Útnesvegur road 574 joins the main road on the Snæfellsnes peninsula, the Snæfellsnes road number 54. So now we have finished our "detour" around the westernmost parts of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
Remember that we left road 54 on the southern part of our tour of Snæfellsnes and turned to Búðir? Our next stop will be at the historical Fróðá, where my grandfather, Kjartan, was born.
To reach Snæfellsnes, it is best to rent a car in Reykjavík and drive up here in a couple of hours.
You can continue travelling with me if you like, and read my next travel blog about the Magical Snæfellsnes Peninsula in West Iceland - Part IV, which is a continuation of my travels on the Snæfellsnes peninsula in chronological order.
I hope you are enjoying reading my travel blog series about the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
I know they are long and detailed, with many side blogs, so I hope you haven't given up by now ;)
Here are links to all of the Snæfellsnes travel blogs in this series:
The Magical Snæfellsnes peninsula - part I
The Magical Snæfellsnes peninsula - part II
The Magical Snæfellsnes peninsula - part III
The Magical Snæfellsnes peninsula - part IV
The Magical Snæfellsnes peninsula - part V
The Magical Snæfellsnes peninsula - Arnarstapi and Hellnar
Have a lovely visit to the beautiful Snæfellsnes peninsula :)
