My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

I want to dedicate this 200th blog of mine here on Guide to Iceland to a very remote valley in the Westfjords of Iceland - the birthplace of my maternal grandmother, Kristbjörg Guðmundsdóttir.  

This remote valley is called Ingjaldssandur and is located between Dýrafjörður and Önundarfjörður fjords.  To get to this secluded valley one has to drive way up to the top of a mountain on a small winding gravel road.

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

We had a family reunion back in 2010 at Núpur in Dýrafjörður close by Ingjaldssandur, and spent one day at Ingjaldssandur, which is called Sandur for short by those who know it well.  My mother and I had arrived early and drove to Ingjaldssandur to check it out.  She had never been to the Westfjords before and after my grandmother left her birthplace and met my grandfather in 1943 in Reykjavík she never returned to her birthplace in the Westfjords.  

I was always told as a young girl that we could not go to the Westfjords as the roads are high up and windy and very bumpy gravel roads.  Well, since the reunion back in 2010 I have spent quite a few days in the Westfjords of Iceland and always look forward to revisiting it in summer time.

On the day my mother and I visited Ingjaldssandur for the first time it was overcast and we drove so high up the windy road in the mountain pass at Sandheiði heath that we were way up in the clouds - it was quite scary as we didn't know the road, which takes you some 530 meters above sea level!  

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

We thought to ourselves what on earth we had gotten ourselves into and when we saw the orange emergency shelter in the clouds we almost lost our courage - but there was no other way than to go straight forward... into the fog... not knowing what lay behind it.

Fortunately by then we were close to the descent from the mountain and soon we were out of the clouds and the beautiful valley of Ingjaldssandur opened up.  Finally we were able to see the birthplace of my mother's mother :)  I was so happy when I spotted the lovely little white church with the huge Celtic cross on top - of which I had seen so many photos.

The day after the whole extended family (ca 170 people) drove over this mountain in beautiful weather - it was quite strange seeing a long line of cars driving up this winding mountain road - so remote in the Westfjords of Iceland!

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

Ingjaldssandur was once home to more than 100 people including the family of 10, to whom my grandmother belonged.  My grandmother, who was born on the 1st of April 1923, was born in a turf house at Sæból, right by the open sea - and later on a concrete house was built, which is still standing.  

All Icelanders used to live in a turf house, rich and poor, and it wasn't until the mid 20th century that the last inhabitants moved out of the turf houses - things sure have changed in my country.  And they changed relatively quickly as my generation thought it was so strange that people had actually been living in these turf houses.

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

I wonder what it must have been like living so close to the open sea, especially during the long, dark and cold winters with the icy wind blowing from the open sea. I want to tell you the story of just one family of many, who have lived in this remote place through the centuries.  Just imagine how many other stories there are to tell from the thousand years of habitation in Ingjaldssandur!

My great-grandparents, Guðmundur Guðmundsson (1889) and Ingibjörg Guðmundsdóttir  (1890) had met at Hvanneyri in West-Iceland, where my great-grandfather was studying to become an agriculturist.   She had already graduated  as a "rjómabústýra" - manager of a creamery, from Hvítárvellir in Borgarfjörður and worked at the creamery at Hvanneyri.  

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

Ingibjörg was born at the beautiful Hellnar in Snæfellsnes, but he was from the Westfjords.  When the land at Sæból at Ingjaldssandur became available she moved away from her family in West-Iceland to reunite with her fiancé and become a farmer in this remote valley way up in the Westfjords.  They had hoped for a land in the fertile Borgarfjörður, but no land was to be had there.

Guðmundur and Ingibjörg had 8 children together; 7 daughters and 1 son, and all but their son and the eldest daughter were later to move to Reykjavík and the surrounding areas in South-West Iceland.

Guðmundur and Ingibjörg lived for 31 years at Sæból in Ingjaldssandur on farming and fishing.  In 1946 they moved to Reykjavík, where most of their daughters already lived.  Their only son, Sigurvin, bought the land from his parents and continued to live at Sæból.

Guðmundur wrote his memoirs, which is invaluable to us, his descendants.  He was also an excellent poet and wrote several poems about Ingjaldssandur, where his love for this valley shines through.

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

My grandmother, who is 3rd from the left in the upper line in the photo above, first visited Reykjavík in 1939 at the age of 16, when she went to help her sister in her sister's home in Reykjavík.

In 1940 my grandmother returned back to the Westfjords, only to find out that she was pregnant at the age of 17, without even knowing about it, until she gave birth to a baby daughter one night.  She stayed at Sæból in Ingjaldssandur until 1942, when she went to work at the hospital at Ísafjörður, the largest town of the Westfjords.  

In 1943 she returned to Reykjavík to work in the kitchen of Tjarnarkaffi restaurant.  There, back in 1943, when she was 20 years old, she met a scrawny looking fellow, Jens Pétur Thomsen, whom she was told to fed as he only weighed 47 kilos at the time!  

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

Pétur had just come from spending months on a German submarine.  He was a young man from Reykjavík, who had been studying photography in Germany, when the Nazis apprehended him and forced him to become a spy in Iceland.  They left him in a remote fjord, Finnafjörður in East-Iceland, but he immediately reported to the British, who had occupied Iceland back then, and became a double agent.  Pétur Thomsen was 1/4 Danish, which makes me 1/16 Danish.

He and my grandmother stayed together until he died in 1988 (she died 20 years later, or in 2008) and had 2 children together and worked as photographers in Reykjavík.  These lovely people were of great importance in my life :)

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

Now back to Ingjaldssandur... this remote place was only accessible in winter time by boat and later by plane.  The valley has mountains on 3 sides and the open sea - it must have been very secluded back then - and still is in winter time.  In my great-grandfather's memoirs I read that often drift ice from Greenland would drift to Ingjaldssandur, and my great-grandfather mentions how interesting it was to see these huge icebergs so close to land.  

One year the drift ice carried with it around hundred trees, most of them 19 feet long!  The trees were a great asset back then as Iceland is severely lacking in trees.  This wood was used to build houses and as firewood.  Sometimes the drift ice brings with it stray polar bears to Iceland, but I am glad that didn't happen to my family at Ingjaldssandur!

Even though my grandmother lived by the open sea she never learnt how to swim - it was not customary in these days to teach people how to swim, now every child in Iceland learns how to swim and almost every town and village in Iceland has got its own geothermal swimming pool.  These swimming pools are very characteristic for Iceland.

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's BirthplaceOnly one farmer is left in Ingjaldssandur now, Elísabet Pétursdóttir or Bettý, is her name.  Do pay her a visit - she knits and sells woollen goods, like sweaters and socks, which she knits during the long, dark winters - so if you want to buy an authentic piece of Icelandic woollen goods then they don't get any more authentic than at Ingjaldssandur :)

At Sæból in Ingjaldssandur, almost right by the sea, you will notice a lovely white church, Sæbólskirkja church, consecrated in 1929.  I remember my grandmother telling me a story of a big storm back in 1924 or 1925, which swept the older church away and broke it to pieces.  At that time my grandmother was only ca 3 years old.  That big storm was called Halaveðrið.   My great-grandfather describes this storm in detail in his memoirs.

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

The noted architect Guðjón Samúelsson designed the new concrete church and the noted sculptor (which I adore) Guðmundur Einarsson from Miðdalur created the font.  The artwork of Guðmundur is very valuable today.  I own two pieces by him which I inherited by my grandfather.

An old copper chandelier from 1649 can be found in the church - which is very old for Iceland.  Many foreign names are engraved in the chandelier - it is believed to have been a donation from a ship-crew, which got saved from danger at sea by Ingjaldssandur.  There are many such stories in Iceland, of foreign ships being saved - or lost at sea - by Iceland.

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

Jón Sveinn Jónsson, the farmer at Sæból, carved the pews and altar rails.  I love visiting these small farm churches, to me they are pure gems dotted around the country side.  I sit inside and make a prayer and think about all the history made in these churches.  Above is a photo I took at the family reunion when my uncle, Rev. Birgir Thomsen, held a service for his relatives in the Sæbólskirkja church during our visit to Ingjaldssandur.

The cross of light is dedicated to Rev. Sigtryggur Guðlaugsson (1862-1959) from Núpur, who is believed to have made 900 trips over Sandsheiði heath to serve his congregation during his 33 years of service! 

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

Ingjaldssandur got its name from the settler of this area, Ingjaldur Brúnason.  His great-grandson was Ljótur hinn spaki - Ljótur the tame, who lived at Álfadalur at Ingjaldssandur and got killed there.

There is accommodation available at Sæból farm 3 with all the modern amenities, apart from the Internet.  Ingjaldssandur is still so remote that there is no Internet in the valley - but maybe that is a plus, to get away from all the stress factors of modern life and experience the silence and tranquillity in a remote valley in the Westfjords of Iceland - at least for a while?

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

One day of the family reunion my extended family - the descendants of my great-grandparents who had lived at Sæból in Ingjaldssandur - visited Ingjaldssandur and spent a whole sunny day in the valley.  On that day this remote place came alive again, much like it must have been back when there were 100 people living here.  My photo above is from the family reunion - notice the pink sand, which is characteristic of the Westfjords.  

The whole of Iceland, apart from the Westfjords, the Snæfellsnes peninsula and Akranes town, has got black lava sand beaches.  I remember listening to my grandmother in awe when she told us about the PINK beaches of her birthplace - how I wanted to see this pink sand, especially as pink was my favourite colour back then :)

We were so lucky that the weather was so fine, sunny and lovely all day long, that we could have barbecue and picnic outside by the community meeting house Vonaland :)

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

Once a year there are festivities in Ingjaldssandur by Vonaland during the first weekend of August, when Sandaballið ball takes place and the valley fills up with people having fun.  

I so want to join one year, but my husband is an entertainer so it is difficult as he is always working during this long weekend, which is the busiest travel weekend in Iceland.

The Waterfall Ósómi

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

When visiting Ingjaldssandur don't forget to walk behind the hidden away waterfall, Ósómi.  It is a beautiful waterfall so I don't know why it is called by this name, which means indecency!

It is best to leave the car by the bridge at Hálsá and walk down by the river, which creates beautiful smaller waterfalls, until you reach the part of the river where you can actually walk behind the waterfall - see my photo below.

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

The weather was so smashing that I decided on washing my hair in the waterfall - I just stuck my head in and let the water do the work - it was just heavenly.  It made me wonder if my grandmother and her sisters had done the same thing and I am sure they did.  If only the surroundings could talk, I bet they had many a romantic story to tell ;)

I wished I had paid more attention when my grandmother was telling me stories, I remember a lot, but as I had never visited Ingjaldssandur back then, then I didn't know the surroundings.

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

What I remember her telling me is the elves (hidden people) which she had seen and talked to!  And her eldest sister even wrote down her encounter with an elf woman she met in the valley.

Back then it was nothing out of the ordinary to have encounters with the elves.  I am still hoping to be able to see an elf one day in nature.  I often converse with the beings in waterfalls, but I have not yet seen an elf in nature.

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

After visiting the waterfall it was time to return back.  On top of the mountain was a sign saying that the descent was 12% over 4 km.  And just look at the height of the poles which measure the depth of the snow, they are the same height as I am (1.70 m) - now we can see why there is no driving to Ingjaldssandur in winter time during heavy snowfall!!

Here you can see the exact location of Ingjaldssandur on the map.  The distance from Núpur in Dýrafjörður to Sæból in Ingjaldssandur is 23 km on road 624. 

My last photo is taken on the other side of the mountain as we were returning back down the winding road and into Dýrafjörður fjord. 

My 200th Travel Blog on Guide to Iceland - Ingjaldssandur in the Westfjords - my Grandmother's Birthplace

If you want to visit the Westfjord then there are plenty of tours to choose from once you are there - take a look at the selection of Westfjord tours on offer - I have joined some of them, f.ex. the Natural Wonders of the Westfjords, where you visit the largest sea cliff in Europe and get up and close with the puffins.

There are several self-drive tours which include the Westfjords of Iceland, f.ex.:  14 Day Self Drive Tour | Circle of Iceland & The Westfjords14 day super-budget self drive tour | Circle of Iceland & the Westfjords

13 Day Self Drive Tour | Circle Of Iceland & Westfjords13 Day Self Drive Tour on Budget | Circle Of Iceland & Westfjords and 

Summer 8 Day Self Drive Tour | Westfjords & Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

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