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Landmannalaugar, or the 'People's Pools', is a vast area of stunning and unique beauty in the heart of Iceland's southern Highlands. Throughout the summer, it is one of the most popular places for hiking -- either over one day or several -- and natural hot spring bathing.
Geology
Landmannalaugar is a truly rare area, both geologically and aesthetically. The dramatic region can be found nestled beside the raven-black Laugahraun lava field, a sweeping expanse of dried magma which originally formed in an eruption in 1477.
Landmannalaugar itself is made up of windswept rhyolite mountains, a rock type that creates a full spectrum of dazzling colour. Shades of red, pink, green, blue and golden yellow make for an ethereal location.
Landmannalaugar was historically best known for its natural geothermal baths, hence its name the People's Pools. For centuries, it served as an area of shelter and respite for weary travellers who use these soothing springs as a means to relax after tiring excursions.
Originally, those attending were settlers crossing the barren highlands, but today, they are tourists after an exciting trip.
Today, visitors to the Highlands should always bring a swimsuit and towel, just in case one of these naturally occurring hot pools should crop up along the hiking trail.
The most popular road leading to Landmannalaugar, Sigölduleið, has such springs, and takes you past multiple stunning natural features, including Bláhylur lake, a magnificent body of water nestled in a dormant volcanic crater.
Landmannalaugar can be reached by car in one of two ways. The quickest is driving through West Iceland, either via Selfoss or Þingvellir National Park. A longer but more scenic route would take you along the South Coast of Iceland. This is Iceland’s most popular sightseeing route, aside from the Golden Circle, due to its wealth of sites.
Of course, like many of Iceland’s destinations, Landmannalaugar can also be reached via helicopter, for those who are travelling with less of a concern for budget. Those on more of a shoestring can buy a bus pass that will take them to the region.
Hiking
Landmannalaugar marks the northern end of the Laugavegur, one of Iceland's most popular hiking trails. This route connects Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk, the ‘Valley of Thor’, ending at the beautiful Skógafoss waterfall.
It is also home to many other notable trails, however, including the path onto the mighty Mt. Brennisteinsalda, the ‘Sulphur Wave’ crater. Visitors can also traverse the trail up the Bláhnjúkur volcano, the 'Blue Peak', whose summit allows for a sweeping view of up to five glaciers on clear days.
Multiple operators run daily tours to Landmannalaugar from mid-June to mid-September, during which time the Icelandic Touring Association operates a small shop, three campsites and a mountain hut equipped with sleeping bags and accommodation for up to 80 visitors.
It is only recommended you take a multi-day hike with an operator. If visiting Landmannalaugar without a guide, you will need a four-wheel-drive.
Nestled between the glaciers Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull is Þórsmörk, the Valley of Thor. A nature reserve in the southern Icelandic highlands, Þórsmörk is one of the country's most popular hiking destinations and a favourite location for photographers and nature lovers alike.
Strictly speaking, Þórsmörk is a valley and a mountain range between the Krossá, Þröngá, and Markarfljót rivers.
Locals, however, often use the name ‘Þórsmörk’ when referring to a much larger region that is composed of the area between Þórsmörk proper, and the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano, the peak that notoriously erupted in 2010 and caused widespread disruption to air traffic in Europe.
Landscapes and Geology
The contrasting vistas of lush oases and roaring glacier rivers cutting through black desert expanses not only make Þórsmörk unique in Iceland but to the entire world. Parts of the valley are rich with moss, fern, and birchwood, while jagged mountain ridges and ice-capped peaks crown the horizon.
The valley's climate is warmer and calmer than usual in south Iceland, which often causes Þórsmörk's mountains to be cloaked in a veil of mist that materialises when the warm valley air ascends and mixes with the descending cold breath of the glaciers above. This is due to the colossal peaks that both surround and shelter it.
In spite of being warmer, Þórsmörk is also wetter than the rest of the country. This, however, only brightens the vegetation, giving the area a lush, emerald hue.
Activities
Þórsmörk's surrounding hills, slopes and mountains are beset with small valleys and gullies that make for some of Iceland's most astonishing hiking routes.
Experienced hikers, therefore, have a wealth of trails to trek, varying in distances and difficulty. In fact, Þórsmörk offers two of the most popular trails in Iceland, the Fimmvörðuháls and the Laugavegur routes.
Fimmvörðuháls is a 30 kilometres (19 miles) trail that takes you into the hills beneath the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano and to the volcanic craters Magni and Móði, which erupted during the 2010 eruption. You can feel the lingering effects of the volcano by feeling heat still rising from the lava rock.
The 55 kilometre (34 miles) Laugavegur path takes you from Þórsmörk to the Landmannalaugar geothermal area, which is home to an incredible wealth of hot springs and rhyolite mountains of vibrant colours.
A short but demanding hike from Þórsmörk up Mt. Útigönguhöfði is suitable for those who are looking for stunning views and don't mind a little physical challenge.
Accommodation and How To Get There
During winter (October 16th to April 30th) the road into Þórsmörk is impassable. In summer (May 1st to October 15th) a special four-wheel-drive mountain bus runs three times per day from the BSÍ bus terminal in central Reykjavík.
Once there you have the choice of setting up base in a small hut in Húsadalur valley, a private room or a dormitory in Langidalur valley, or to camp in Þórsmörk's campsite. Please note that the huts, private rooms and dormitories must be booked well in advance.
Of course, when the roads are clear, it is possible to drive there yourself. As with all cases with driving in Iceland, however, ensure that you are comfortable with the vehicle you have and your driving skills before setting off.
Skógafoss is one of Iceland’s biggest and most beautiful waterfalls with an astounding width of 25 meters (82 feet) and a drop of 60 meters (197 feet).
Due to the amount of spray the cascade produces, at least one rainbow is present any time the sun emerges from behind the clouds.
Located on the Skógá river, this mighty cascade is clearly visible from Route 1 and is an excellent place to stop and stretch the legs while travelling Iceland’s South Coast. The river below Skógafoss holds a large char and salmon population and is thus a favourite spot for fishermen in the summer.
The land underneath the waterfall is very flat, allowing visitors to walk right up to the wall of water. This will get you drenched, although, on a summer’s day, it can be quite tempting.
Skógafoss can also be viewed from the top as a steep staircase leads to an observational platform above the cascade. Many nesting seabirds can be found on the route up.
Geography
Skógafoss is located near the small village of Skógar, south of the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano. There you’ll find the Skógasafn folk museum, an open-air museum with both old wooden houses and turf houses, as well as a regional museum with various artefacts from this area.
A part of the Skógasafn Regional Museum is the Museum of Transportation, which showcases the history and evolution of transportation, communication and technologies in Iceland. There, you can see how this nation evolved from the age of the working horse to the digital communications of the 21st century.
The Skógasafn museum also includes a café and a museum shop, and in the village of Skógar, you will find both a hotel and a restaurant.
At the eastern side of Skógafoss, you will find one of Iceland’s most famed hiking routes; the Fimmvörðuháls pass. The 22 kilometre (14 miles) trail takes you along Skógá river, between two glaciers, Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull, before ending in the beautiful Þórsmörk valley.
Skógafoss is often visited alongside the waterfall Seljalandsfoss, which is just a little further along the South Coast. Both fall from cliffs of the same height, and while Skógafoss is much more powerful, Seljalandsfoss has a cave behind it, which means it can be fully encircled. It is also next to a much lesser known but still awe-inspiring waterfall, Gljúfrabúi.
Folklore
A gold ring is on display at the Skógasafn museum. According to legend, the ring is from a chest that was owned by Þrasi Þórólfsson, one of the first Viking settlers in the area, who by some accounts was a giant. Folklore states that before his death in 900 AD, Þrasi buried a chest filled with gold in a cave behind Skógafoss waterfall.
Many attempts were made to retrieve the chest after Þrasi’s death, and years later, locals managed to grasp a ring on the side of the chest. As they pulled, the ring broke off, and the treasure was lost forever. The ring was then given to the local church before it made its way to the museum.
Fimmvörðuháls Pass is one of Iceland's most popular hiking trails. It made the world news when the Eyjafjallajökull eruption started here in 2010, but now is best renowned for its incredible, stark nature.
Hiking at Fimmvörðuháls
Fimmvörðuháls is located in south Iceland, and is part of the highly popular, multi-day hike, the Laugavegur trail. It can be trekked as part of this, which goes from from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk valley, or independently in a day.
The trail is located between glaciers Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull and lies from Skógar to Þórsmörk valley. It is about 22 kilometres (14 miles) long, and requires a 1000 metres (0.6 miles) ascent.
It is therefore only recommended that those with a good level of fitness, with decent hiking boots and adequate supplies, take the route. It is also not recommended you hike without a guide, unless you are a very experienced hiker and people know where you are going and when to expect your return.
The trail offers breathtaking and diverse scenery. The view down to the verdant and dramatic Þórsmörk, and of the many waterfalls of the river Fossá, are being particularly of note. Part of the trail is often snowy, as the glaciers meet it at either side.
The Morinsheiði plateau offers a stunning view of the ice cap Mýrdalsjökull, which conceals one of the country’s most dangerous and unpredictable volcanoes, Katla.
The weather can be unpredictable in these parts so caution is advised; it is important to check the forecast before leaving for any destination in Iceland, but, due to the difficult terrain here, it is especially vital.
The 2010 eruption at Fimmvörðuháls
In 2010, the world watched as the glacier Eyjafjallajökull erupted, pouring vast amounts of ash into the atmosphere. Farms were poisoned across the south of the county, those with respiratory problems were confined indoors, flights were grounded and newscasters everywhere twisted their tongues trying to pronounce it.
Few know, however, that this eruption succeeded a smaller one at Fimmvörðuháls.
On the 20th of March, at 23:00, a 0.5 kilometre (0.3 mile) fissure opened to the north of the pass. A week later, it started again, and began to form in two craters near Þórsmörk.
The lava flow died down, but were unfortunately only a sign of what was to come on the 14th of April. Air traffic all but halted across Europe for six days, and some routes were closed even into May.
The new craters were named Móði and Magni on the 15th of June, after the sons of Thor, a fitting name considering they were situated next to ‘the Valley of Thor’. They are two of the youngest craters in the country.
They are visited on most hikes through the area, and particularly interesting due to the face that they still emanate heat. Snow cannot settle on the rocks here, and on cold days, they often appear to be steaming.
This is due to the fact lava takes years to fully cool. If you put your hands on the stone here, you’ll find them warm even in cool weather.
Laugavegur is one of the most popular highland trails in Iceland. The scenery is breathtaking in its beauty and diversity, perfectly representing the country’s raw natural wonder.
The area is a favourite for those who want to take multi-day hikes through the Icelandic Highlands.
The Laugavegur Highland Trail should not be confused with the Laugavegur shopping street in Reykjavík. The name Laugavegur means ‘the way of the water’.
Location of the Laugavegur Hiking Trail
The Laugavegur Trail is located in the southern Icelandic Highlands, and connects the geothermal area of Landmannalaugar to the forested valley of Þórmörk.
Landmannalaugar is a spectacular location, only accessible in summer, renowned for its colourful rhyolite mountains and bubbling hot springs, which guests are welcome to bathe in.
Þósmörk, meanwhile, is sheltered by mountains and glaciers, and famous for its greenery. It is so beautiful that it was named after the most acclaimed of the Old Norse Gods, Þór (often anglicized to Thor).
The Laugavegur Trail, from Landmannalaugar, passes the ‘Swan Lake’, Álftavatn; the black sand desert of Mælifellssandur, renowned for its vibrant green mountain Stórasúla; and through the plains of Emstrur. There are countless peaks, crater lakes and volcanoes en route, and the trail sits in the shadow of the glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull.
It is 55 kilometres (34 miles) long.
Hiking the Laugavegur Hiking Trail
The Laugavegur Hiking Trail is one of the most popular hiking routes in the country. It is usually taken over five- to six- days, although some tours have an additional day hiking the Fimmvörðuháls Pass from Þórsmörk to Skógafoss waterfall. The route can usually be accessed from June to September, though this is weather dependent.
It is possible to camp as you cross the Highlands via the Laugavegur Trail, but most tours stop off at the mountain huts of Hrafntinnusker, Alftavatn, Hvanngil, Laugahraun and Emstrur (Botnar).
Hiking the Laugavegur Trail should only be done by those with good endurance, as many of the paths are uphill, and the days can be quite long. If you wish to hike it without a guide, you must be an expert, well-researched hiker, with all necessary equipment and stocks, and way to contact emergency services as a precaution.
It is also highly recommended that you register your journey at safetravel.is, so that the rescue teams will be alerted if you do not get to your destination at your expected time.
Though some may wish to take the tour independently, there are many advantages to joining a group. It is safer; you will also have the company of an experienced, knowledgeable guide who can tell you about the locations you pass through; your heavy bags will be taken ahead of you; and you don’t need to worry about bringing or cooking food.
Regardless of if you are hiking yourself or on an organised tour, you will need many layers of warm, waterproof clothing; shoes for crossing rivers; sturdy hiking boots with ankle support; a first-aid kit; and a large water bottle.
It is also highly recommended that you take a camera, as well as a swimsuit and towel to enjoy the hot springs at Landmannalaugar.
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