Informationen über: Strokkur Geyser

Strokkur, Iceland’s most active geyser, is one of the top stops on the Golden Circle. Learn about its eruption patterns from an expert, how to get there, what to see nearby, and how to plan your visit.

Strokkur is a geyser located in the Geysir Geothermal Area in Haukadalur Valley, one of the main highlights of Golden Circle tours. On an average day, it erupts about 17 times per hour, shooting boiling water skyward against Iceland’s volcanic landscape.

Strokkur has been erupting reliably since 1963, when locals drilled the conduit. Most eruptions reach 37 to 104 feet (11 to 32 meters). In rare cases, the water column can climb as high as 130 feet (40 meters). 

For this guide, we spoke with Prof. Dr. Eva Eibl, a geophysicist at the University of Potsdam in Germany who leads the seismological research at Strokkur. She shared insights on how the geyser works beneath the surface, what shapes its eruption patterns, and what visitors can expect from its eruptions.

If you want more technical details, we also recommend reading Prof. Eibl’s published research on Strokkur, including her studies on the geyser’s eruption interval monitoring, its eruptive cycle and bubble trap, eruption forecasting, and the effects of wind on eruption timing.

Travelers who want to see it with their own eyes can visit Strokkur on a range of self-drive packages or by renting a car and driving Routes 1 and 35 from Reykjavik, a distance of about 62 miles (100 kilometers). The geothermal area surrounding Strokkur offers far more than the geyser alone.

Read on to learn more about Strokkur, including when it erupts, what to see nearby, and how to plan your visit.

Key Takeaways

• Strokkur (pronounced STROHK-ir) is one of only a handful of geysers in the world that erupt this reliably and this frequently. There are no tickets to buy, no schedule to check, and never more than 15 minutes to wait between eruptions.

• There is no admission fee. The Geysir Geothermal Area is open 24/7, with parking at around 1,000 ISK at the Geysir Center across the road. The Strokkur Geyser parking fee is payable through the Parka app.

• Strokkur is located on the Golden Circle, about 62 miles (100 kilometers) from Reykjavik along Route 35. The drive takes roughly 1 hour and 40 minutes on paved roads.

• Most visitors spend 30 to 60 minutes at the geyser, with up to 90 minutes for those exploring the full Haukadalur Geothermal Field.

• The water in and around the vents is boiling. Stay on the marked paths at all times, and keep a safe distance from all hot springs and steaming fissures.

How Strokkur Geyser Erupts

Strokkur is the centerpiece of Haukadalur Valley and the main reason this geothermal area ranks among Iceland’s most visited natural wonders.

Active geysers are rare worldwide because three precise geological conditions must exist in the same location. Only a handful of places on Earth have the right combination.

1. The first is an intense heat source. Iceland sits on top of the Mid-Atlantic Ridge between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, which means magma is close enough to the surface to boil water on contact.

2. The second is a supply of underground water. In Strokkur’s case, glacial meltwater from Langjokull, Iceland’s second-largest glacier, seeps through porous lava rock and travels underground in all directions. Evidence of this flowing water can also be found at Thingvellir National Park, where freshwater springs emerge directly from the earth.

3. The third is a specific underground plumbing system. If the geyser eruption is driven by bubbles in a reservoir, there must be a chamber above the heat source where water can collect. This chamber is connected through narrow cracks to a conduit that links it with the surface.

The buildup follows a consistent sequence. The water reaches roughly 250 F (120 C) at 33 feet (10 meters) depth before erupting.

Prof. Eibl explains:

Visitors standing at the closest viewing distance of about 33 feet (10 meters) from Strokkur can sometimes feel the ground vibrating beneath their feet. They are standing directly above what scientists call the “bubble trap,” the underground chamber where gas accumulates before each eruption.

Despite the dramatic appearance, the eruption is driven by the rapid expansion of steam bubbles rather than by a large volume of water. It is the speed of the ejection, roughly up to 98.43 miles per hour (158.4 kilometers per hour), that creates the towering column.

This combination of heat, water, and silica-lined plumbing is so uncommon that geysers exist in only a few geothermal regions globally, including Iceland, Yellowstone in the United States, and the Taupo Volcanic Zone in New Zealand.

Strokkur vs. Geysir: What’s the Difference?

Strokkur’s neighbor, the Great Geysir, sits just 433 feet (132 meters) to the north. Geysir is the hot spring that gave the English language the word “geyser,” and it was historically the more famous of the two, once erupting to heights of nearly 328 feet (100 meters).

Geysir is now largely dormant and erupts only on rare occasions. Many photos and postcards labeled “Geysir” actually show Strokkur, which is the geyser visitors see erupting today.

Beyond Strokkur and Geysir, the valley is full of geothermal features worth exploring. Fumaroles, hot springs, mud pools, and smaller Iceland geysers are scattered across the valley floor.

The ground itself is stained vivid colors by mineral deposits: yellow from sulfur, green from copper, and red from iron. Visitors can walk the marked paths to see steaming fissures and bubbling vents up close.

History and Eruption Patterns of Strokkur Geyser

Sveinn Pálsson, the first university-educated nature scientist in Iceland, documented in his travel books that Strokkur was blocked in 1708 as people threw stones and turf into the pool. Strokkur became active again in 1789, after one of the many earthquakes in Iceland unblocked the geyser’s underground conduit and allowed it to erupt freely.

In 1793, Pálsson gave it the name “Strokkur,” which means churn, and estimated fountain heights of more than 164 feet (50 meters).

At the turn of the 20th century, another earthquake blocked the conduit again, and Strokkur fell silent for decades. It was drilled in 1963 to clear the blocked channel, according to a 1995 report by H. Torfason for Iceland’s National Energy Authority.

The geyser has been erupting regularly ever since. Prof. Eibl’s Strokkur seismological research, with the support of her colleagues at the ISOR, Iceland, has cataloged over 850,000 individual Strokkur eruptions using seismic instruments placed near the geyser between 2020 and 2026.

The data reveals patterns that are invisible to the casual observer: after a single eruption, the average wait is about 3.7 minutes, while a double eruption (two bursts in quick succession) is followed by a longer gap of about 6.2 minutes. Triple, quadruple, and even sextuple eruptions have been recorded, though they are rare.

The research also found that weather conditions affect eruption frequency.

Geothermal areas also change over time. In October 2024, the Icelandic Met Office reported unusual activity across the broader Geysir Geothermal Area, beginning on Saturday, October 19.

The Environment Agency confirmed that numerous hot springs had become more active, and Strokkur in particular erupted more frequently and more powerfully, occasionally ejecting rocks and mud and reaching heights of around 100 feet (30 meters).

Such changes highlight the importance of treating Strokkur as an active geothermal feature, not simply a tourist attraction. Visitors should always stay on designated paths and exercise caution around active vents.

Best Time To Visit Strokkur

Strokkur erupts around the clock in every season, and the Geysir Geothermal Area has no gates, tickets, or opening hours. The best time to visit therefore comes down to light, weather, and how many people you want to share the viewing area with.

Time of day matters more than time of year. Golden Circle day tours leave Reykjavik in the morning and start arriving in Haukadalur Valley from mid-morning onward. This means the paths around Strokkur are at their busiest between roughly 10:00 AM and 4:00 PM. Come earlier or stay later and you can often watch several eruptions in a row with only a handful of other travelers beside you.

In June, visitors traveling at their own pace can even stop by late at night, when the midnight sun bathes the steaming valley in soft golden light and the boardwalks are nearly deserted.

Summer, from June through August, is the most popular season for good reason. Reykjavik sees up to 21 hours of daylight around the solstice, the weather is at its mildest, and the paved Golden Circle route is easy to drive. The trade-off is that midday crowds peak in these months, which makes the early and late hours all the more rewarding.

Winter offers a different kind of spectacle. Boiling water bursts out of a snow-covered landscape, and the cold air condenses each eruption into a far thicker plume of steam than you see in summer. Since eruptions continue after dark, a clear winter evening also brings the chance of watching the northern lights dance above the geothermal field.

Daylight is limited to around four to seven hours from late November through January. Roads can also be icy, so many travelers visit on guided tours instead of driving themselves.

Spring and fall sit comfortably in between. Crowds thin out, the air stays crisp, and roads generally remain manageable for self-drivers. For travelers who want the site largely to themselves without committing to full winter conditions, March through May and September through October are ideal times to visit.

Getting the Best Strokkur Photos

The best position for photographing a Strokkur eruption is to the south or southeast of the vent. This puts the sun behind you during the middle of the day and gives the clearest view of the water column against the sky.

Standing to the west, at the closest viewing distance of about 33 feet (10 meters), puts you nearest to the action but can leave you shooting into backlight during afternoon hours. It also helps to watch for the bubble. Just before each eruption, a dome of pale blue water swells at the surface of the basin. That is your cue.

The final stage is fast. Prof. Eibl’s measurements show the system commits to an eruption only about 15 seconds before the water leaves the vent, so frame and focus during the wait rather than after you see movement in the basin.

A fast shutter speed (1/1000 or higher) freezes the water in mid-air, while a slightly slower speed (1/250 to 1/500) captures some motion in the column. Burst mode helps, since the eruption lasts only two to three seconds.

Keep shooting after the column drops. Strokkur occasionally fires a second time within seconds, and those double and triple bursts cannot be predicted, as Prof. Eibl noted.

Winter and autumn offer the most dramatic conditions for photography. The steam is denser and more visible against cold air, and low sun angles during these months create strong contrast and long shadows across the geothermal field.

In summer, the late evening light (after 8:00 PM) is softer and warmer than the flat midday sun.

Strokkur Parking, Toilets, and Facilities

The Geysir Center is directly across the road from the Geysir Geothermal Area and provides the main facilities for visitors to Strokkur. The geothermal area itself has no restaurants, cafes, or toilets, so the center is the most convenient place to stop before or after seeing the geyser.

The center offers the following facilities:

• Geysir Glima Restaurant: A convenient option for a full meal.

• Kantina Cafe: A casual self-service canteen or cafeteria.

• Supa: A dedicated soup outlet offering warm, filling meals.

• Ice Cream Shop: A spot to grab a sweet treat.

• Gift Shop: A large shop selling souvenirs and Icelandic gifts.

• Toilets/Restrooms: Clean public toilets are available for visitors.

• Parking: Parking is available, with Strokkur a short walk away. You can pay the parking fee of 1000 ISK through the Parka app.

Safety Tips for Visiting Strokkur Geyser

Visitors should exercise caution throughout the Haukadalur Geothermal Area. The water in and around the vents is boiling, and steam can cause burns even through clothing.

There is no hospital in the immediate vicinity, so following safety rules is essential.

• Stay on marked paths: Never step beyond ropes or barriers, as the ground around hot springs and vents can be unstable and dangerously hot.

• Keep a safe distance: Stay well back from Strokkur and other geothermal features, especially during eruptions.

• Stand upwind when possible: Wind can blow hot water droplets and steam toward visitors. Some travelers report feeling scalding spray during windy conditions.

• Dress for changing weather: Wear windproof and waterproof layers, as weather conditions can shift quickly and strong winds are common.

• Be prepared for sulfur smells: The scent of sulfur, often compared to rotten eggs, is normal in geothermal areas and can be stronger near vents and mud pools.

• Supervise children closely: Keep children behind safety ropes and within arm’s reach at all times.

• Watch your footing: Boardwalks and paths can become wet, icy, or slippery, particularly in winter.

• Allow extra space in crowds: The area can become busy during peak hours, so avoid standing too close to geothermal features when viewing eruptions.

• Respect closures and warning signs: Conditions in geothermal areas can change, and some sections may be temporarily closed for safety reasons.

Strokkur Protection and Conservation

Strokkur is guarded against interference, with chains and barriers keeping visitors at a safe distance from the vent. This protection exists in part because of what happened to the Great Geysir.

For years, soap was pumped into Geysir’s vents to trigger more dramatic eruptions for tourists. Over time, this damaged the vent structure and contributed to the geyser’s eventual dormancy.

Strokkur has not been immune to interference. In April 2015, Chilean artist Marco Evaristti poured five liters of red food coloring into the geyser as a piece of what he called “landscape art,” turning the eruption pink.

The erupting water carried the dye onto the surrounding ground and into nearby puddles, with traces still visible that afternoon. The landowner pressed charges under Icelandic conservation legislation.

However, the South Iceland District Court acquitted Evaristti, ruling that the specific provisions he was charged under did not clearly prohibit his actions. The incident remains a sore point for conservation advocates and a reminder of how vulnerable the geothermal features are to human interference.

Strokkur Geyser Location and How To Get There

Strokkur is located just off Route 35 in Haukadalur Valley, about 62 miles (100 kilometers) northeast of Reykjavik.

The Geysir Geothermal Area is also included in a wide range of Golden Circle tours, combining Strokkur with Gullfoss Waterfall, Thingvellir National Park, and more recently, the Kerid Crater.

Tours to the Golden Circle are available as guided day trips from Reykjavik, self-drive itineraries with pre-booked accommodation and a rental car, or multi-day guided packages that pair the famous route with other regions.

The right format depends on how much time you have, how independently you want to travel, and what other parts of Iceland are on your itinerary.

Golden Circle Day Tours From Reykjavik

Day tours are the most popular way to visit Strokkur from Reykjavik. These guided trips cover the three main Golden Circle stops in a single day and include transportation, a local guide, and stops at each attraction.

Here are some of the top Golden Circle day trips worth considering:

• Golden Circle Minibus Tour: A small-group trip with Icelandic food samples and local music along the way, giving the classic Golden Circle route a more cultural, personal feel than standard coach tours.

• Golden Circle and Blue Lagoon Tour With Admission: Combines all three Golden Circle stops with a visit to the Blue Lagoon and Kerid Crater, covering five attractions in a single day with admission included.

• Golden Circle & Snowmobiling Tour: Adds a snowmobile ride across Langjokull Glacier to the classic Golden Circle route, departing from Gullfoss after visiting Strokkur.

Golden Circle Self-Drive Itineraries

Travelers who prefer to explore independently can rent a car and drive the full Golden Circle loop in a single day. The drive from Reykjavik to Strokkur takes roughly 1 hour and 40 minutes along paved roads that are accessible year-round.

Strokkur Geyser parking is available directly across the road from the geothermal area. From there, it is a short walk to the viewing area.

Most self-drive itineraries place the Golden Circle on the first or second day.

• 5-Day Self-Drive Tour of South Iceland With the Golden Circle and Blue Lagoon: Covers the Golden Circle, South Coast waterfalls, Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach, and Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon at your own pace, with optional add-ons like glacier hiking and snowmobiling.

• 6-Day Self-Drive Tour of the Golden Circle, Blue Lagoon & Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon: Extends the South Coast route with extra time at Vatnajokull National Park and Skaftafell, including the option to hike to Svartifoss or join a glacier walk.

• 7-Day Self-Drive Tour of West and South Iceland with the Golden Circle: Combines the Golden Circle and South Coast with the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, covering Iceland’s southern and western highlights in one itinerary.

Multi-Day Tours Including Strokkur

Multi-day guided tours in Iceland typically include Strokkur as part of a broader itinerary covering the South Coast, glaciers, or the full Ring Road. These packages include accommodation, transportation, and a guide throughout.

• 3-Day Golden Circle, South Coast & Jokulsarlon Tour with Ice Cave from Reykjavik: Covers the Golden Circle on day one, then continues along the south coast to glacier hiking, ice caving, and floating icebergs at Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon.

• 6-Day Ring Road Tour in Iceland with Glacier Hike, Ice Caving, and Whale Watching: Circles the full Ring Road with stops for glacier excursions in the south, whale watching in the north, and time in East Iceland’s remote fjords.

• 8-Day Guided Tour of the Complete Ring Road of Iceland & Snaefellsnes Peninsula: Takes a slower pace around the Ring Road with a detour to the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, allowing more time at each stop than shorter itineraries.

Top 6 Things To Do Near Strokkur

Strokkur’s location in the Haukadalur Valley and on the Golden Circle route puts a range of attractions within easy reach. Below are the best things to do near Strokkur.

6. Play a Round at Geysir Golf Course

Photo from Haukadalsvöllur / Geysir Golf Course Iceland (Facebook). No edits made. 

For an unexpected diversion, the Geysir Golf Course sits within walking distance of the geothermal area. This 9-hole course winds through heather-lined fairways with two rivers crossing the playing area and no artificial mounding, giving it a raw, natural feel.

The course is open during the summer months, and the combination of steaming vents visible from the fairways and the volcanic landscape surrounding the greens makes it one of the more unusual rounds of golf in Iceland.

Buggy rentals and a driving range are available on-site. Quad biking and horse rentals are also available nearby for travelers looking for something active beyond the geothermal field.

5. Walk the Haukadalur Church Loop

If you want more than the short geothermal walk, you can take the Haukadalur Church loop, a 2.9-mile (4.7-kilometer) trail that circles through the valley and takes roughly 1 hour and 20 minutes at a relaxed pace.

The trail passes through quieter countryside beyond the main geothermal field, offering views of the surrounding hills and a small historic church. It is a good option for visitors who arrive early or have extra time at the Geysir stop and want to stretch the visit beyond the usual 30 to 60 minutes most travelers spend at Strokkur.

4. Explore the Haukadalur Geothermal Field

The geothermal field surrounding Strokkur extends well beyond the geyser itself. The main walking loop covers roughly 2 miles (3.2 kilometers) and takes about 45 to 60 minutes at a leisurely pace, including time to wait for eruptions.

The pathway, which includes boardwalks in places, leads directly past the Great Geysir’s large blue basin, the vivid turquoise Blesi hot spring, Konungshver Spring, mud pools, steaming fissures, and other smaller geysers in Iceland, like Smidur and Litli Strokkur.

The main viewing path from the parking area to Strokkur is paved and boardwalked in places, making it passable for strollers and wheelchairs, though some sections closer to the outer geothermal features are gravel and uneven.

The entire area is free to access and open year-round. Water temperatures in the pools and vents reach 175 to 212 F (80 to 100 C), so staying on the marked paths is essential, particularly during summer when the area gets crowded.

The sulfur smell is strong in places. Arriving early in the morning or later in the evening helps avoid the busiest tour bus hours and gives a quieter experience of the field.

3. Relax at Laugaras Lagoon

For a relaxing break after exploring Strokkur, head to Laugaras Lagoon, a geothermal spa in the village of Laugaras, about 30 minutes from the Geysir Geothermal Area. Its facilities include a geothermal lagoon, saunas, cold pools, forest pool, and swim-up bars.

You can choose from several ticket options that suit different types of visits.

• Birki Pass: The standard admission includes the lagoon, saunas, cold pool, forest pool, and swim-up bars. Towels are not included.

• Lerki Pass: Includes all Birki Pass facilities, plus a towel and one complimentary drink from the swim-up bar.

• Osp Pass: Includes everything in the Lerki Pass, along with a two-course meal at Ylja Restaurant.

Laugaras Lagoon works well as a longer stop on a Golden Circle itinerary, giving you time to relax and enjoy the spa facilities before continuing your journey. Allow at least 1 to 2 hours for bathing and relaxing before continuing your journey.

If you’re not driving, you can also visit Laugaras Lagoon as part of a Golden Circle tour with Reykjavik transfer, which combines the main Golden Circle sights, including Strokkur, with Lerki admission and transportation from Reykjavik.

2. Drive to Gullfoss Waterfall

Gullfoss Waterfall is about 6 miles (10 kilometers) further northeast along Route 35, roughly a 10-minute drive from Strokkur on fully paved roads. One of Iceland’s best waterfalls, Gullfoss plunges 105 feet (32 meters) in two tiers into a dramatic canyon carved by the Hvita River.

Two free parking lots are available: an upper lot near the cafe and visitor center, and a lower lot closer to the falls. Both connect to viewing platforms, with a 10- to 20-minute walk depending on which lot you use. The upper lot is more convenient for a quick stop; the lower lot puts you closer to the spray.

In winter, the roads remain accessible, but studded tires are recommended due to potential ice. Make sure to check road conditions before driving.

Most visitors combine Gullfoss and Strokkur in the same stop on the Golden Circle. From Gullfoss, it takes roughly 50 to 60 minutes to Thingvellir National Park to complete the loop.

Travelers who want to explore Gullfoss in more depth can browse Gullfoss Waterfall tours, many of which include Strokkur and the rest of the Golden Circle in the same itinerary.

1. Visit Thingvellir National Park

Thingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is roughly 37 miles (60 kilometers) west of Strokkur along Routes 35 and 365. The park sits in a rift valley where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are actively pulling apart, and it was the original site of Iceland’s national assembly, the Althingi, founded in 930 AD.

You can walk through the Almannagja Gorge between the continental plates, see the Oxararfoss Waterfall cascading into the rift, and visit Logberg (Law Rock), where Iceland’s earliest laws were declared. Lake Thingvallavatn, the largest natural lake in Iceland, borders the park to the south.

For a more immersive experience, snorkeling tours in the Silfra Fissure offer crystal-clear glacial water with visibility exceeding 330 feet (100 meters) between the tectonic plates.

The park is free to enter, with paid parking that is valid all day. The main paths from the Hakid Visitor Center down into the gorge are paved or boardwalked and accessible for strollers and wheelchairs.

Plan to spend at least 1 to 2 hours for the main viewpoints, or a full day to explore the longer hiking trails that extend deeper into the valley. The landscape shifts dramatically between seasons: green and lush in summer, stark and icy with frozen columns in winter.

Top 3 Best Places To Stay Near Strokkur Geyser

Staying near Strokkur allows you to experience the Geysir area outside of peak daytime hours, when the crowds thin out and the light shifts. There are several Golden Circle accommodations within easy reach of the geyser, ranging from full-service hotels to budget-friendly camping.

3. Geysir Campsite

The Geysir Campsite is the most budget-friendly option near Strokkur and a natural base for travelers with rental campervans. It sits in a grassy, partially forested area directly across from the Geysir Center in Haukadalur Valley, putting Strokkur within walking distance.

The site is open from mid-May to mid-September and costs roughly 2,500 ISK per person per night, with extra charges for electricity and showers paid per use. There’s also an overnight accommodation tax of 400 ISK per unit (camper/tent).

The service house has hot showers, toilets, washing machines, and waste disposal for chemical toilets and mobile homes. Electricity hookups are available in about half of the camping area; the other half is reserved for tents only.

A children’s playground sits next to the service house, and free Wi-Fi is available throughout. The Geysir Glima restaurant, cafe, and shops are directly across the road. Quiet hours start at midnight, and motor vehicles cannot move between midnight and 8:00 AM.

2. Litli Geysir Hotel

Litli Geysir Hotel is a 3-star hotel surrounded by open countryside, just steps from the geothermal area. It strikes a balance between comfort and value, and its telescopes and fireplace lounge make it a particularly strong pick for winter visitors hoping to catch the northern lights.

The hotel has 22 rooms, all modern and allergy-friendly, with private bathrooms, flat-screen TVs, and soundproofing. The hotel also has free Wi-Fi, on-site parking, an electric vehicle charging station, and ground-floor accessible rooms.

An on-site restaurant serves traditional Icelandic cuisine with views of the hot spring area, and guests also have easy access to a restaurant and a cafe at the adjacent Geysir Center. The Geysir Golf Course is also just a short walk away.

1. Hotel Geysir

Hotel Geysir is the most upscale option near Strokkur and the closest hotel to the geothermal area itself. This 4-star, 77-room property sits directly across from the Geysir Geothermal Area.

Options range from standard doubles to deluxe suites, with large windows facing the geothermal landscape, coffee machines, and private bathrooms with showers or tubs. Some rooms have balconies.

The hotel has three restaurants, three bars and lounges, and a cafe, serving breakfast (with a mimosa bar), lunch, and à la carte dinner. A rooftop terrace offers 360-degree views of the surrounding valley and has a small herb garden.

For relaxation, guests can use the indoor heated Geysir hot tub. The hotel also has a 24-hour front desk, free Wi-Fi, free self-parking, an electric vehicle charging station, laundry service, and multilingual staff.

Strokkur is a short walk from the hotel entrance, making it the most convenient option for visitors who want to watch eruptions at sunrise or late in the evening without driving anywhere.

Visiting Strokkur on the Golden Circle

Few moments in Iceland are as simple and rewarding as watching Strokkur erupt. A pale blue bubble swells at the surface, the crowd goes quiet, and then the water fires skyward in a single, clean column.

The eruption lasts only a few seconds. Then the basin settles, steam drifts across the valley, and the whole cycle begins again.

Strokkur is one of those rare attractions that deliver exactly what they promise, every time, for free. Plan your visit with one of many Golden Circle tours or browse self-drive packages for a flexible itinerary.

If you prefer full independence, you can rent a car and drive Routes 1 and 35 from Reykjavik, watching the landscape shift from city to countryside to steaming valley in under two hours.