Highlights: 
The Icelandic Highlands cover the majority of the country and many of Iceland’s impressive natural attractions can be found here. Away from crowds, noise and bustle, the Highlands offer silence, serenity, peace and extreme natural beauty.
A favourite amongst hikers and photographers, the Highlands are accessible from June to September.
The Central Highlands
The Central Highlands cover a vast area, at an altitude of over 500 metres (1640 feet), with numerous mountains reaching heights between 1,000 and 2,000 metres (3,281 and 6562 feet). Most of these higher mountains are covered by glaciers.
The tallest mountain in the country is located in the Highlands, beneath Europe’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull. Hvannadalshnúkur stands at an incredible 2,109 metres (6,919 feet) tall and can be reached on some helicopter tours. Another notable peak is Bárðarbunga, a sub-glacial volcano in northwest Vatnajökull that stands at 2,000 metres.
Vatnajökull is the greatest of the three largest glaciers in the country, all of which are in the Central Highlands; the others are Hofsjökull in the centre of Iceland and Langjökull, west of Hofsjökull.
Various highlands paths lie between the glaciers. These usually open in June, but late snows have been known to push the opening to July. One of the major routes is Kjölur, which connects the south and north of Iceland. It is located between Hofsjökull and Langjökull and passes through a region of rhyolite mountains and geothermal oases.
Sprengisandur, is another noteworthy path connecting the south and north, and it is located between Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull.
Kaldidalur is also a significant highland road stretching west of Langjökull, from Þingvellir towards the Borgarfjörður district.
Always remember that the natural environment that makes up Iceland's Highlands is as delicate as it is enchanting. The slightest damage inflicted upon small areas can cause erosion and irreversible landscape wounds that can easily spread over large areas. Consequently, when travelling in the Highlands visitors must at all times uphold responsible travel etiquette.
Driving off-road and designated paths is strictly forbidden and punishable by heavy fines. The moss is delicate and should not be walked or camped on, let alone removed, and fishing is heavily regulated.
The South Highlands
Almost all the mountains south of the glaciers are tuff mountains, formed during the Ice Age. Volcanic activity is confined to tuff areas of the country and the southern Highlands are home to some of Iceland's most active volcanoes: Hekla, Eyjafjallajökull and Katla, which sits under Mýrdalsjökull, Iceland’s fourth largest glacier
Eyjafjallajökull is the most famous of these volcanoes. When it erupted in 2010, it caused major disruption to air travel across Europe, and widespread confusion to newsreaders everywhere as they tried to pronounce it; it was thus nicknamed to E11.
The South Highlands is also home to Landmannalaugar, one of the country's best hiking and hot spring bathing sites.
Northeast, Central-North and Northwest Highlands
In the northeast of the Highlands are the Lakagígar Craters the famous subglacial lake and volcano, Grímsvötn, and the glacier Öræfajökull. North of Vatnajökull, the best-known volcanoes are Askja and Krafla.
Also in this area is the Jökulsárgljúfur canyon, which holds the most powerful waterfall in Europe, Dettifoss.
The northwest and central-north Highlands consist of ancient basalt formations, similar to the mountains that comprise the Eastfjords.
Highland Oases
There are a few oases in the highlands that have unique vegetation and wildlife. The most important of these are Þjórsárver, Nýidalur/Jökuldalur, Herðubreiðarlindir and Eyjabakkar. The pink-footed goose has its main nesting places at Þjórsárver and Eyjabakkar. Þjórsárver was designated as a Ramsar site in 1990.
Wild reindeer reside in the east Highlands; this is the only place they can be seen. Initially brought over for farming, the industry never took out and they have roamed free in their herds since.
Nestled between the glaciers Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull is Þórsmörk, the Valley of Thor. A nature reserve in the southern Icelandic highlands, Þórsmörk is one of the country's most popular hiking destinations and a favourite location for photographers and nature lovers alike.
Strictly speaking, Þórsmörk is a valley and a mountain range between the Krossá, Þröngá, and Markarfljót rivers.
Locals, however, often use the name ‘Þórsmörk’ when referring to a much larger region that is composed of the area between Þórsmörk proper, and the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano, the peak that notoriously erupted in 2010 and caused widespread disruption to air traffic in Europe.
Landscapes and Geology
The contrasting vistas of lush oases and roaring glacier rivers cutting through black desert expanses not only make Þórsmörk unique in Iceland but to the entire world. Parts of the valley are rich with moss, fern, and birchwood, while jagged mountain ridges and ice-capped peaks crown the horizon.
The valley's climate is warmer and calmer than usual in south Iceland, which often causes Þórsmörk's mountains to be cloaked in a veil of mist that materialises when the warm valley air ascends and mixes with the descending cold breath of the glaciers above. This is due to the colossal peaks that both surround and shelter it.
In spite of being warmer, Þórsmörk is also wetter than the rest of the country. This, however, only brightens the vegetation, giving the area a lush, emerald hue.
Activities
Þórsmörk's surrounding hills, slopes and mountains are beset with small valleys and gullies that make for some of Iceland's most astonishing hiking routes.
Experienced hikers, therefore, have a wealth of trails to trek, varying in distances and difficulty. In fact, Þórsmörk offers two of the most popular trails in Iceland, the Fimmvörðuháls and the Laugavegur routes.
Fimmvörðuháls is a 30 kilometres (19 miles) trail that takes you into the hills beneath the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano and to the volcanic craters Magni and Móði, which erupted during the 2010 eruption. You can feel the lingering effects of the volcano by feeling heat still rising from the lava rock.
The 55 kilometre (34 miles) Laugavegur path takes you from Þórsmörk to the Landmannalaugar geothermal area, which is home to an incredible wealth of hot springs and rhyolite mountains of vibrant colours.
A short but demanding hike from Þórsmörk up Mt. Útigönguhöfði is suitable for those who are looking for stunning views and don't mind a little physical challenge.
Accommodation and How To Get There
During winter (October 16th to April 30th) the road into Þórsmörk is impassable. In summer (May 1st to October 15th) a special four-wheel-drive mountain bus runs three times per day from the BSÍ bus terminal in central Reykjavík.
Once there you have the choice of setting up base in a small hut in Húsadalur valley, a private room or a dormitory in Langidalur valley, or to camp in Þórsmörk's campsite. Please note that the huts, private rooms and dormitories must be booked well in advance.
Of course, when the roads are clear, it is possible to drive there yourself. As with all cases with driving in Iceland, however, ensure that you are comfortable with the vehicle you have and your driving skills before setting off.
Fimmvörðuháls Pass is one of Iceland's most popular hiking trails. It made the world news when the Eyjafjallajökull eruption started here in 2010, but now is best renowned for its incredible, stark nature.
Hiking at Fimmvörðuháls
Fimmvörðuháls is located in south Iceland, and is part of the highly popular, multi-day hike, the Laugavegur trail. It can be trekked as part of this, which goes from from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk valley, or independently in a day.
The trail is located between glaciers Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull and lies from Skógar to Þórsmörk valley. It is about 22 kilometres (14 miles) long, and requires a 1000 metres (0.6 miles) ascent.
It is therefore only recommended that those with a good level of fitness, with decent hiking boots and adequate supplies, take the route. It is also not recommended you hike without a guide, unless you are a very experienced hiker and people know where you are going and when to expect your return.
The trail offers breathtaking and diverse scenery. The view down to the verdant and dramatic Þórsmörk, and of the many waterfalls of the river Fossá, are being particularly of note. Part of the trail is often snowy, as the glaciers meet it at either side.
The Morinsheiði plateau offers a stunning view of the ice cap Mýrdalsjökull, which conceals one of the country’s most dangerous and unpredictable volcanoes, Katla.
The weather can be unpredictable in these parts so caution is advised; it is important to check the forecast before leaving for any destination in Iceland, but, due to the difficult terrain here, it is especially vital.
The 2010 eruption at Fimmvörðuháls
In 2010, the world watched as the glacier Eyjafjallajökull erupted, pouring vast amounts of ash into the atmosphere. Farms were poisoned across the south of the county, those with respiratory problems were confined indoors, flights were grounded and newscasters everywhere twisted their tongues trying to pronounce it.
Few know, however, that this eruption succeeded a smaller one at Fimmvörðuháls.
On the 20th of March, at 23:00, a 0.5 kilometre (0.3 mile) fissure opened to the north of the pass. A week later, it started again, and began to form in two craters near Þórsmörk.
The lava flow died down, but were unfortunately only a sign of what was to come on the 14th of April. Air traffic all but halted across Europe for six days, and some routes were closed even into May.
The new craters were named Móði and Magni on the 15th of June, after the sons of Thor, a fitting name considering they were situated next to ‘the Valley of Thor’. They are two of the youngest craters in the country.
They are visited on most hikes through the area, and particularly interesting due to the face that they still emanate heat. Snow cannot settle on the rocks here, and on cold days, they often appear to be steaming.
This is due to the fact lava takes years to fully cool. If you put your hands on the stone here, you’ll find them warm even in cool weather.
Laugavegur is one of the most popular highland trails in Iceland. The scenery is breathtaking in its beauty and diversity, perfectly representing the country’s raw natural wonder.
The area is a favourite for those who want to take multi-day hikes through the Icelandic Highlands.
The Laugavegur Highland Trail should not be confused with the Laugavegur shopping street in Reykjavík. The name Laugavegur means ‘the way of the water’.
Location of the Laugavegur Hiking Trail
The Laugavegur Trail is located in the southern Icelandic Highlands, and connects the geothermal area of Landmannalaugar to the forested valley of Þórmörk.
Landmannalaugar is a spectacular location, only accessible in summer, renowned for its colourful rhyolite mountains and bubbling hot springs, which guests are welcome to bathe in.
Þósmörk, meanwhile, is sheltered by mountains and glaciers, and famous for its greenery. It is so beautiful that it was named after the most acclaimed of the Old Norse Gods, Þór (often anglicized to Thor).
The Laugavegur Trail, from Landmannalaugar, passes the ‘Swan Lake’, Álftavatn; the black sand desert of Mælifellssandur, renowned for its vibrant green mountain Stórasúla; and through the plains of Emstrur. There are countless peaks, crater lakes and volcanoes en route, and the trail sits in the shadow of the glaciers Mýrdalsjökull and Eyjafjallajökull.
It is 55 kilometres (34 miles) long.
Hiking the Laugavegur Hiking Trail
The Laugavegur Hiking Trail is one of the most popular hiking routes in the country. It is usually taken over five- to six- days, although some tours have an additional day hiking the Fimmvörðuháls Pass from Þórsmörk to Skógafoss waterfall. The route can usually be accessed from June to September, though this is weather dependent.
It is possible to camp as you cross the Highlands via the Laugavegur Trail, but most tours stop off at the mountain huts of Hrafntinnusker, Alftavatn, Hvanngil, Laugahraun and Emstrur (Botnar).
Hiking the Laugavegur Trail should only be done by those with good endurance, as many of the paths are uphill, and the days can be quite long. If you wish to hike it without a guide, you must be an expert, well-researched hiker, with all necessary equipment and stocks, and way to contact emergency services as a precaution.
It is also highly recommended that you register your journey at safetravel.is, so that the rescue teams will be alerted if you do not get to your destination at your expected time.
Though some may wish to take the tour independently, there are many advantages to joining a group. It is safer; you will also have the company of an experienced, knowledgeable guide who can tell you about the locations you pass through; your heavy bags will be taken ahead of you; and you don’t need to worry about bringing or cooking food.
Regardless of if you are hiking yourself or on an organised tour, you will need many layers of warm, waterproof clothing; shoes for crossing rivers; sturdy hiking boots with ankle support; a first-aid kit; and a large water bottle.
It is also highly recommended that you take a camera, as well as a swimsuit and towel to enjoy the hot springs at Landmannalaugar.
Fjallabak may refer to Fjallabak Nature Reserve, or two highland routes, South Fjallabaksleið or the North Fjallbaksleið. The name 'Fjallabak' literally translates to 'The Back of the Mountains', or 'Mountain Back'.
Fjallabak Nature Reserve
Fjallabak Nature Reserve ("Friðland að Fjallabaki") is an area in the Icelandic Highlands surrounding the popular hiking destination of Landmannalaugar, protected since 1979.
The entire area is more than 500 metres above sea level and characterised by colourful mountains, geothermal valleys and volcanic activity. The colour is due to the rhyolite and obsidian making the ground appear green, blue, pink, red and yellow. Lava fields, rivers and lakes also make their mark on this Nature Reserve.
A popular natural hot spring is located at Landmannalaugar camping ground, where visitors will frequently bathe. A mountain hut is also found in the area, perfect for guests to book overnight stays, use the kitchen and the bathroom facilities.
All amenities are basic and very rustic and there are no food or grocery shops available in the area.
The area is most popular with hikers; to reach it a 4WD car is needed as some rivers need to be crossed. Fjallabak Nature Reserve is also only accessible during summertime, as it is covered with thick ice and snow in wintertime.
Iceland's most popular hiking route, the Laugavegur Route, leads from Landmannalaugar within Fjallabak Nature Reserve to Þórsmörk.
Hikers normally take 3-4 days to hike it.
South Fjallabaksleið
The South Fjallabaksleið ('Fjallabaksleið syðri') is an old highland route north of Mýrdalsjökull glacier, connecting Rangárvellir (the eastern part of the South Iceland lowlands) to Skaftártunga (the area northwest of Mýrdalsjökull).
The area is very dry, sporting scant vegetation as it is situated between mountains that have a strong volcanic activity. The mountains have left endless amounts of ash, sand and lava in the area which is now covered in moss, creating a truly unique regional look.
North Fjallabaksleid
In more recent times, another track, North Fjallabaksleið ('Fjallabaksleið nyrðri'), has been laid, connecting the two aforementioned areas. This north track was originally named Landmannaleið by the local farmers who used it.
