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Reykjavík is the capital of Iceland and the northernmost capital of any sovereign state in the world.

Despite a small population (approximately 120,000, with just over 200,000 in the Greater Reykjavík area), it is a vibrant city that draws an ever increasing number of visitors every year. It is the financial, cultural and political centre of Iceland, and has a reputation of being one of the cleanest and safest cities in the world.

Geography

The city of Reykjavík is located in southwest Iceland by Faxaflói Bay. Throughout the ages, the landscape has been shaped by glaciers, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and the area is geothermal; after all, its name translates to ‘Smoky Bay’.

Much of the current city area was subglacial during the Ice Age, with the glacier reaching as far as the Álftanes peninsula, while other areas lay under the sea.  After the end of the Ice Age, the land rose as the glaciers drifted away, and it began to take on its present form.

The coastline of Reykjavík is set with peninsulas, coves, straits and islands, most notably the island of Viðey, and seabirds and whales frequent the shores. The mountain ring as seen from the shore is particularly beautiful.

Mount Esjan is the highest mountain in the vicinity of Reykjavík and the most distinctive feature of the coastline. This majestic summit is also highly popular amongst hikers and climbers. Other notable mountains that can be seen from the seaside are Akrafjall and Skarðsheiði.

On clear days, one may even see as far to the legendary Snæfellsjökull glacier, at the end of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.

The largest river to run through the city is Elliðaá in Elliðaárdalur valley, which is also one of Iceland’s best rivers for salmon fishing.

Transportation

There are no trains or trams in Iceland, but most people travel by car. The city also operates a bus system. There are two major harbours in town, the old harbour in the centre and Sundahöfn in the east.

The domestic Reykjavík Airport is located at Vatnsmýrin, not far from the city centre and close to the hill Öskjuhlíð and the restaurant, vantage point and exhibition centre Perlan. The international Keflavík Airport at Miðnesheiði heath then lies around 50 kilometres (31 miles) from the city.

Cars, jeeps and bicycles can be readily rented in the city and many organized tours are also being offered. It is, however, quite easy to walk between the major sites.

What to See & Do in Reykjavik

The local arts scene is strong in Iceland, with annual events and festivals, many of artists from which have hit the international stage.

Major events taking place in Reykjavík include Iceland Airwaves, Reykjavík Pride, RIFF (The Reykjavík International Film Festival), The Reykjavík Literature Festival, Culture Night, the Reykjavík Arts Festival, Food & Fun, the Reykjavík Fashion Festival and the Sónar music festival.

Amongst the famous people from Reykjavík are musicians like Björk Guðmundsdóttir and Sigur Rós, and writers Halldór Laxness (born on the main street, Laugavegur) and Arnaldur Indriðason.

Those eager to soak up the local culture should visit the city’s many museums, exhibitions and galleries, and check out live music at the cafés, bars, and concert venues dotted around. You could look at the programmes of what’s on at the Harpa music hall or the theatres, or else plan a few hours at the lighthouse at Grótta, the shopping street of Laugavegur, or the old harbour and the flea market.

You could even book a bird- and whale watching tour or a visit to Viðey island. There are a lot of things to do and the possibilities are endless.

Make sure to visit the public square of Austurvöllur, one of the city’s most popular gathering places, where you’ll also find the national parliament, the Alþingi, as well as the state church, a statue of independence hero Jón Sigurðsson, cafés, bars and restaurants.

Austurvöllur was central in the protests following the banking collapse of 2008, along with Lækjargata, home to the House of Government. You are also not likely to miss the great church of Hallgrímskirkja that towers over the city from the hill of Skólavörðuholt, from which you’ll get a great view of the city.

Try a walk by the city pond, Tjörnin, to greet the many birds that frequent the area and to visit the city hall, stationed by its banks. A beautiful park lies by the pond, ideal for a nice walk, and sometimes concerts get held there.

Further off is the campus of the University of Iceland, the Nordic house and the Vatnsmýrin wetland, a particularly pleasant place, but be mindful to not disturb the wildlife there by keeping to the pathways.

For a nice swim on a warm day, we particularly recommend Nauthólsvík beach, which is heated with geothermal water. Those who love a dip should also visit the Laugardalur valley, home to one of the city’s best swimming pools, which sits a short walk away from Ásmundarsafn gallery, a beautiful botanical garden and a domestic zoo.

A walk by the Ægissíða beach, with its old fishing sheds, in the west part of Reykjavík also holds a particular charm. From there, you can see all the way to president’s house at Bessastaðir, which is also a historical site in its own right, having been the educational centre of Iceland for centuries. 

Another place that offers one of the city’s best views is Perlan, up on Öskjuhlíð hill. The hill itself is a popular place to spend a few hours, with over 176,000 trees and great opportunities for walking and cycling. Perlan also has and observation deck with great views, a café and an exhibition centre.

Furthermore, the city is a short drive from many of Iceland’s major attractions, most famously the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. In close vicinity you’ll also find the Heiðmörk preservation area, a favourite local site of the people of Reykjavík, as well as the Blue Mountains, one of Iceland’s best skiing venues.

Finally, we’d like to stress that these are only some suggestions of the many things you might check out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose to do, we hope you’ll be able to make the most of your visit and we wish you a pleasant stay in our capital.

Hallgrímskirkja is a Lutheran church, located on top of the Skólavörðuhæð hill in the centre of Reykjavík. At 74.5 metres (245 feet) tall, it is the largest church in Iceland, and its tower offers a spectacular panoramic view over the city.  

History and Design

The church was designed by one of Iceland’s most renowned architects, Guðjón Samúelsson, who is said to have sought inspiration for his expressionistic design from elements of Icelandic nature.

These include glaciers, mountains and lava formations, particularly the hexagonal basalt columns that surround the waterfall Svartifoss in Skaftafell Nature Reserve, in Vatnajökull National Park. These have influenced the architecture of many structures in Iceland, as well as a whole host of other artistic projects.

It is also designed to resemble Thor’s hammer, with the handle facing up, as a nod to Iceland’s religious history.

The church took 41 years to build, with construction starting in 1945 and finishing in 1986. The leaders of the Church of Iceland wanted a building that would tower over the Catholic Church of Landakotskirkja, also designed by Samúelsson.

The large pipe organ inside Hallgrímskirkja, consisting of over 5000 pipes, was built by German Johannes Klais of Bonn and its construction was completed in December 1992.

Outside the church stands one of the most famous statues of one of Iceland’s most legendary children, Leifur Eiríksson, by American sculptor Alexander Stirling Calder; Eiríksson was a Norse explorer from Iceland who discovered the continent of North America in the year 1000, more than half a century before Christopher Columbus.  

The statue was a gift from the United States in 1930, on the millennial anniversary of Iceland’s legislative body, the Alþingi, founded in Þingvellir in 930 AD. This was the world’s first democratically elected parliament and is now located in Reykjavík.

Culture

The church’s namesake is the Icelandic priest Hallgrímur Pétursson, a 17th-century poet and author of the Passion Hymns (Passíusálmar). These hymns are a vital part of Icelandic religious tradition and a staple of local literature, having been reprinted over 75 times since their original publishing in 1666.

The tower of the church is each day visited by hundreds of spectators who seek to enjoy its sweeping view of the capital. The observation tower can be accessed via a lift. There is a small fee to ascend above the clock, which goes towards the maintenance and running of the church.

Hallgrímskirkja counts as the most iconic landmark of the city of Reykjavík and is visible throughout most of the capital, challenged only by the concert hall and conference centre Harpa. It is a useful tool for navigating as visitors wander the streets.

It also serves as a focal meeting point for several cultural events, such as the annual gathering for watching the fireworks on New Year’s Eve. On this night, thousands of people set off dozens of fireworks in an ad-hoc, somewhat chaotic, yet unbelievably dazzling show.

In the lead-up to the night many shops sell protective goggles that are recommended for all observers, particularly children, due to a few incidents of debris falling from poorly aimed fireworks.

Wikimedia, Creative Commons, photo by Laurentgauthier

Höfði is a building in Iceland’s capital, most famous for being the meeting point of then-presidents Ronald Reagan of the United States and Mikhail Gorbachev of the Soviet Union.

Höfði House’s Location

Höfði House is located on Sӕbraut, the road in Reykjavík that runs adjacent to the coastline; it thus looks out over Faxaflói Bay and Mount Esjan.

Though several kilometres away from the downtown area, it is a pleasure to walk to, taking you past Harpa, a concert hall, and the Sun Voyager, an artwork. In clear weather, the route provides great views of the Reykjanes and Snӕfellsnes Peninsulas.

History of Höfði House

Höfði is also notable as the former residence of Icelandic poet and entrepreneur Einar Benediktsson. Since 1958 it has been used for formal receptions and festive occasions.

In 1986, it drew the world’s attention, as Cold War presidents Reagan and Gorbachev met here for the first time. This was seen as the beginning of the end of the Cold War.

Though talks here collapsed, they eventually led to nuclear forces treaty in 1987, and marked the beginning of a dialogue between the USA and USSR.

A Hollywood film is now being made about the meeting of the Soviet and US leaders, starring Michael Douglas and called Reykjavík.

The house is rumoured to be haunted.

Reykjavík Harbour refers to the Old Harbour and is located close to the centre of the city. It is the main port of departure for whale and puffin watching tours, as well as Northern Lights cruises.

The original purpose of the old harbour was for fisheries and trade; the consequences of the latter is why Reykjavík has such a disproportionately high population when compared to the rest of the country, and why it became the capital. These industries, while still important have given way to tourism in recent years.

Tours from Reykjavik Harbour

Many tours leave from Reykjavík Harbour, some going on throughout the year. The most notable of these are the whale-watching tours. Leaving multiple times a day, the vessels cruise into Faxaflói Bay, where an abundance of creatures dwell. Year-round, harbour porpoises and white-beaked dolphins reside, with the occasional Minke Whale that forgot to follow its migration route. In summer, these are much more abundant, alongside Humpback Whales.

It is also possible, but not common, to see Blue, Fin, Sei and Beaked Whales on these tours, as well as the magnificent Orca (which, unlike the others, prefers to visit in winter).

In summer, puffin watching tours are also available. These go to the isles of Lundy and Akurey, just offshore, where they nest in the thousands. These tours come with binoculars for a close-up view and can sometimes be added onto whale-watching excursions.

In winter, Northern Lights Cruises can offer some of the best opportunities to see the aurora borealis in complete peace and darkness. If visiting over New Year, it is also possible to take a boat out to see the incredible fireworks over Reykjavík.

Sea anglers can also take tours from the Old Harbour, and there are rod rentals on the pier for those who would rather stay routed on lands. Some of the nearby fish restaurants will be happy to cook up your catch for you.

Museums around Reykjavik Harbour

Not only do many tours leave from the Old Harbour, but it is close to many of the city’s most popular museums. The Reykjavík Maritime Museum, for example, is a perfect place to learn about Iceland’s seafaring history and the brave and brutal men and women who populated the island. The Whales of Iceland exhibition, meanwhile, allows guests to better understand the two dozen species of cetacean that call the waters here home.

These museums are all perfect for children, and many are discounted or free with a Reykjavík city card.

Views from Reykjavik Harbour

The views the Old Harbour are some of the best in Reykjavík. Across Faxaflói Bay, passed the docked sailing boats, are a wealth of natural landscapes. To the north is the flat-topped Mount Esja, the most popular hiking spot in the country, and in very clear weather, you’ll be able to see the stunning Snæfellsnes Peninsula and its crowning glacier.

Looking southward, you will also see the volcanic peaks of the Reykjanes Peninsula. Of course, within view are many of the landmarks of the capital, such as the Harpa Concert Hall.

Harpa is Rekjavík’s premier concert hall and conference centre. Opened in 2011, its design was a collaboration between Danish-Icelandic artist Ólafur Elíasson, and the Danish firm Henning Larsen Architects. Today, it is a cultural centre of Reykjavík and one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.

History

The idea for a purpose-built concert hall in Reykjavík had been tossed around since the 1880s, but it wasn't until this millennium that it began to gain traction. Construction finally began in 2007, with Icelanders as blissfully unaware as the rest of us as to the problems that year would bring.

The wake of the financial crash of 2008 hit Iceland far harder than most other countries; its banks far overstretched themselves across Europe and ended up heavily indebting the people when they collapsed.

The future of Iceland’s economy was uncertain, especially when the government declared they would not bail out the banks nor pay off their debts, much to the chagrin of countries like the Netherlands and the UK.

In this tumultuous period, Harpa was left partially constructed, with no funds to finish it. The Icelandic populace was divided between having a half-finished construction site facing their downtown—a humiliating reminder of their country’s financial state—or spending money no-one was sure they had.

The Icelandic government, however, decided that it was the only building in the country that warranted being raised, in spite of the dubious future of the economy, and fully financed its completion.

When the European Court of Justice ruled that Iceland did not have to bend to the will of its debtors, the country was united in supporting it.

Architecture

Harpa won the prestigious Mies van de Rohe award in 2013, otherwise known as the European Prize for Contemporary Architecture, and is featured heavily in any tour of the city. Its structure is beautiful and unique; it has a facade of 714 glass panels, all of which are a different shape and built with an LED light that allows for shows whenever the sky is dark.

Ólafur Elíasson is world-renowned for his large-scale installation art, and for the influences he draws from the natural world. This is clearly exhibited in Harpa. The building reflects the basalt landscapes of Iceland and the dark-coloured glass creates beautiful effects with the natural light. Considering the midnight sun and aurora borealis, this can be quite spectacular.

Studio Olafur Eliasson employs 90 people, from architects to graphic designers, craftsmen to art historians. Based in Berlin, they work across the world, and are well-known for works such as London's 2007 Serpentine Gallery Pavillion and the annual event Life is Space.

Henning Larsen Architects are similarly successful. They have collaborated on the construction of dozens of buildings in over twenty countries, such as the Copenhagen Opera House and Uppsala Concert Hall in Sweden. They are currently working on the creation of thirteen buildings around the world, many of which they scored the opportunity to work on due to their competition-winning designs.

Harpa Today

Today, Harpa is one of the jewels in Reykjavík’s crown. The hall hosts exhibitions, concerts, cultural events, meetings, and festivals such as Airwaves, Sónar and the Reykjavík Fashion Festival. Home of the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and the offices of the Icelandic Opera, it is a centre of culture in Iceland’s capital.

Many internationally known artists from around the world have performed here, including people such as Eddie Izzard and Cyndi Lauper. It also regularly showcases native talent, such as Björk and Of Monsters and Men.

Below, you can see a video showing Harpa's construction:

Tjörnin is the historic, picturesque pond that can be found in downtown Reykjavík.

Sites and Activities at Tjörnin

This popular spot in the capital city is bordered by cultural sites such as the National Gallery of Iceland, the theatre Tjarnabío, and Reykjavík City Hall, where the Guide to Iceland visitor centre is located.

Tjörnin has a year-round duck population, due to the fact that one corner of the lake is geothermally heated so that it never freezes over.

It is better to feed the birds with treats like oats and frozen peas, which they digest much better than bread. This is not encouraged in summer, however, as the free food attracts seagulls which compete with the residents.

Swans, geese, tern and many other species also frequent the lake throughout summer. This makes it a favourite spot in the city for birdwatching.

Of course, to sea saltwater birds like the puffin, visitors need to book a boat trip out of the city or visit a site such as the Dyrhólaey cliffs. This is only possible from May to September as they are migratory.

The pond borders a beautiful inner city park, Hljómskálagarðurinn, which includes play equipment for children and several fascinating statues.

In winter, the lake freezes so thick (everywhere but the heated part) that it is possible to ice skate on it.

Tjönin’s history

Tjörnin is much older than one might think looking at it. It was first formed at the beginning of the 9th Century, separated from the sea by a gravel barrier.

It was not separated from the sea, however, until 1913, when lochs were built around it to protect it from tidal surges. In 1920, it became even closer to its current form with the building of a bridge across it. This bridge accommodated cars from 1942.

It became a freshwater body as a result of all seawater being separated from it completely in 1989.