Highlights:
Akureyri, ‘The Capital of the North’ is a town in the fjord Eyjafjörður in North Iceland. It lies just 100 kilometres (62 miles) away from the Arctic Circle. It is Iceland’s second-largest urban area with a population of about 17,800.
Economy
Akureyri is an important fishing centre and port, but in the last few years, tourism, industry, higher education and services have become the fastest growing sectors of the economy.
An airport is located about three kilometres (two miles) from the centre and a large number of cruise ships lay anchor in its busy harbour.
Traditionally Akureyri has survived on fisheries and some of Iceland’s largest fishing companies such as Samherji, have their headquarters there. Other large companies are also based here, such as Vifilfell hf, the largest brewery in Iceland, which produces the famous Kaldi beer.
FSA/Akureyri Hospital is a significant employer in the area and is one of two major hospitals in Iceland.
Akureyri has excellent facilities for travellers and is located a short drive from many of Iceland’s top natural, cultural and historical attractions. Additionally, one of Iceland's best skiing sites is found by Akureyri, at Hlíðarfjall and it is the location for Ak Extreme, an annual skiing and snowboarding festival.
Nature & Landscape
Akureyri is surrounded by mountains, the highest one being Kerling at 1,538 metres (5,064 feet). The area around it has rich agriculture and a beautiful mountain ring.
The island of Hrísey sits in the middle of Eyjafjörður and Grímsey Island, which straddles the Arctic Circle; both islands belong to the municipality of Akureyri. Hrísey is often called 'The Pearl of Eyjafjörður’ and Grímsey 'The Pearl of the Arctic', and these beautiful and peaceful islands are highly popular with travellers.
Both are also home to many puffins.
Furthermore, Akureyri is a very popular place to stay due to its proximity to the Lake Mývatn. This is one of the country’s most popular destinations, due to its incredible natural beauty, intense geothermal activity, a wealth of birdlife and many surrounding sites, including Dettifoss waterfall, the most powerful waterfall in Europe.
It is also close to the seal-watching capital of Iceland, Hvammstangi, on the Vatnsnes Peninsula. This peninsula is also home to the captivating ‘elephant rock’ formation, called Hvítserkur.
The convenience of Akureyri is added to by its position on the Icelandic Ring Road, a route that encircles the country, passing almost every major destination. This means that reaching it from Reykjavík is little trouble, even in winter and the journey takes just under five hours.
History & Culture
During World War II, Akureyri was an essential site for the Allies and the town grew considerably after the war, as people increasingly moved to urban areas.
Akureyri has an active cultural scene, with several bars and renowned restaurants as well as frequent concerts and shows. During the summer there are several notable festivals in Akureyri and its surroundings such as the Vaka Folk festival.
Sites of interest in Akureyri include the brand-new Hof concert hall, many museums and the Christmas house which is open all year round.
The city boasts the world's northernmost botanical gardens which are located close to the swimming pool which is worth a visit.
Akureyrarkirkja church sits in a prized position halfway up the hill upon which most of the city is built. It was completed in 1940 and was designed by one of Iceland's most famous architects, Guðjón Samúelsson, who also was also responsible for arguably Iceland's most famous church, Hallgrímskirkja in Reykjavík.
Mývatn is a beautiful lake with many small islands in the north of Iceland, the fourth largest lake in the country. Due to its serenity, birdlife and volcanism, the lake, including its surrounding area, is one of the most amazing natural attractions in the country.
Mývatn is, in fact, so beautiful that is was used as a site in the Game of Thrones franchise. In mid-winter it was used to represent the lands North of the Wall, namely Mance Raider’s Wildling camp.
Geology
Mývatn sits about an incredibly active geothermal area, giving it a unique and beautiful geology. After all, it is close to sites such as Krafla caldera, which contains the notorious Víti volcano, the name of which translates to ‘hell’.
Many of the islands here are thus pseudocraters, formed by steam explosions as magma rose beneath pockets of water, and many are bizarre basalt columns, rising vertically from the surface, formed by rapid cooling after an eruption.
The high amount of geothermal activity beneath Mývatn, of course, presents the opportunity for bathing in naturally heated waters. This is best done at the Mývatn Nature Baths, a beautiful establishment with serene waters, incredible views, and a reasonable entry fee.
Wildlife
Mývatn has some of the best bird-watching available in Iceland, although those seeking puffins will need to be at coastal cliffs such as those at Látrabjarg and Dyrhólaey, between May and September.
In fact, Mývatn has more species of duck than anywhere else in the world, with thirteen nesting species and many more visitors. Most popular (and common) amongst these is the harlequin duck sometimes referred to as the white-eyed diver after their unique white markings.
Mývatn’s surrounding vegetation and plentiful food make it a happy home for voles, mice and rats that have spread all over Iceland, providing tasty treats for Iceland’s only native land mammal, the Arctic Fox. Visitors, however, will have to keep a close eye out for these, as they are experts in camouflage.
In terms of flora, the most interesting plant life at Mývatn actually exists just beneath the surface of the water. Marimo are ‘moss balls’, bizarre spheres of fluffy green algae that are found in very few other places around the world, namely Japan (where they got their name), Scotland, Estonia and Australia.
Surrounding sites
Visitors to Mývatn often wish to spend more than just a single day exploring its many surrounding locations. Primary amongst these is Dimmuborgir, a lava field which truly reflects the dramatic consequences of a volcanism in Iceland. This area is steeped in folklore and is home to the thirteen ‘Santas’ of Iceland, the Yule Lads.
It was also here that many of the Game of Thrones scenes were shot such as Mance Rayder's wildling camp at Dimmuborgir and Grjótagjá cave, where Jon and Ygritte shared an evening together. Though this site can be admired from the shore, the water temperature is not monitored and can heat up very quickly, so visitors are asked not to take a dip.
Those with an interest in Iceland’s strange geothermal and geological sites should also check out the Skútustadagígar pseudo-craters and the aforementioned Víti crater and its surrounding lava field. There are also several geothermal hot spots around Krafla and the Námaskarð Pass which is a fascinating and primordial place.
Lake Mývatn is located on the Ring Road that fully encircles the country, making further sites easily reachable. To the west is the ‘Capital of the North’, Akureyri, a charming town with the highest population outside of the capital area.
To the east, you can find the largest waterfall in Iceland, Dettifoss which also happens to be the most powerful waterfall in Europe, and the incredible horseshoe-shaped canyon, Ásbyrgi. This feature was said to have formed by the stomping of one of the feet of Oðinn’s eight-legged horse as it leapt through the sky.
Dimmuborgir, or the Black Fortress, is a dramatic expanse of lava in the Lake Mývatn area. Steeped with folklore, it is one of the most popular destinations for travellers to north Iceland.
Geology of Dimmuborgir
Dimmuborgir was formed in an eruption that occurred in the area 2,300 years ago; the Lake Mývatn area is highly volcanic, as can be further seen in nearby locations such as the geothermal Námaskarð Pass, the hot spring cave Grjótagjá, and the dramatic Krafla fissure.
As lava flowed across the area, it passed over a lake, causing it to boil. This both quickened the cooling of the lava and caused pillars of steam to shatter parts of it. After it solidified, Dimmuborgir area became defined by large stacks of rock and many caves and caverns, caused by bubbles of intense steam.
As such, many have compared Dimmuborgir to a medieval castle, with its many hidden chambers and its rising towers.
Folklore of Dimmuborgir
In Icelandic culture, lava caves are allegedly the homes of the nation’s brutal and vile trolls. The most famous of these were the half-troll, half-ogre Grýla and her submissive husband Leppalúði. Grýla was renowned for her insatiable appetite for children, and her gigantic pet cat, that would eat children over the Christmas period for not getting any clothes (encouraging kids to finish their weaving, knitting and sewing chores before the season set in).
Grýla and Leppalúði had thirteen sons who lived in Dimmuborgir and are now known as the ‘Icelandic Santa Clauses’ or Yule Lads. On the thirteen nights before Christmas, these trolls come one by one to terrorise Icelanders, each with their own strategy after which they were named.
Sheep-Colt Clod, for example, would harass livestock; Skyr-Gobbler would steal and lick the house's supplies of yoghurt-like skyr; and Window-Peeper would stare into houses, looking for things to burgle.
Like most frightening Icelandic stories, the Yule Lads were most likely created to keep children from going out into the cold Icelandic winter nights, where many disappeared without a trace for centuries. As the nation modernised, they became mischievous tricksters rather than devilish monsters. Now, they have been ‘Americanised’; rather than traditional Icelandic garb, they wear Santa costumes, and although they still steal skyr, they now also bring gifts.
Due to Iceland’s remoteness and fondness for storytelling, the nation developed many unusual Christmas traditions.
During the Christianisation of Iceland, Dimmuborgir developed a new set of tales. Many began to believe, due to its starkness, that it was where Satan landed when cast from heaven, and where he created the catacombs to hell.
Dimmuborgir in pop culture
Dimmuborgir recently saw a surge in popularity, as it was featured on HBO’s Game of Thrones. In the series, it is where Mance Raider held his wildling army. It was shot here in winter.
The popular Norwegian black metal band Dimmu Borgir is also named after the area.
Goðafoss waterfall is located in the river Skjálfandafljót in north Iceland, the fourth largest river in Iceland. It is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the country, falling from a height of 12 metres (39 feet) over a width of 30 metres (98 feet).
History of Goðafoss
The name Goðafoss means either waterfall of the gods or waterfall of the 'goði' (i.e. priest/ chieftain). The reason for this is its fascinating history.
When Iceland was first settled in the 9th and 10th Centuries, the vast majority (who were not slaves, at least) were Norwegians who followed the Old Norse religion, worshipping deities like Thor, Odin, Loki and Freya. However, after the Commonwealth was established in 930 AD, pressure to convert began to push from Christianising Europe.
By 1000 AD, it seemed that Norway would almost certainly invade if the country were to stand by their pagan beliefs. The issue was thus discussed at Þingvellir, where the parliament met once a year. The lawspeaker at the time, the Ásatrú priest (or goði) Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði, was given the responsibility to make the decision.
It is said he sat beneath a birch for a day and a night in silence, praying to his Old Gods for the right decision. Eventually, he emerged and said, for the good of the people, Christianity would be the official religion, but pagans could practice in private.
To symbolise his decision, he returned to his home in north Iceland and threw idols of the Old Gods into a beautiful waterfall. Since then, it would be known as Goðafoss.
Getting to Goðafoss
Goðafoss is located in north Iceland, on the Ring Road that fully encircles the country. It is considered part of the Diamond Circle sightseeing route.
This trail also takes visitors to the Lake Mývatn area, Dettifoss Waterfall, Ásbyrgi Canyon and the town of Húsavík.
Mývatn is a beautiful lake, filled with a wealth of birdlife, and it is renowned for it incredible surroundings, which include fortresses and of lava, geothermal areas, craters and basalt pillars. Dettifoss is another waterfall, and though it does not have the history of Goðafoss, it has much more power; it is, in fact, the most powerful waterfall in Europe.
Ásbyrgi Canyon, meanwhile, is also linked to the Old Norse Gods. Its perfect horseshoe shape was said to have been created by the stomping of one of the hoofs of the eight-legged steed of Odin. The final destination on the Diamond Circle is Húsavík, the best place for whale-watching in Iceland.
Outside of the Diamond Circle, Goðafoss, is easily reached by travelling for 45 minutes east by car from the capital of the north, Akureyri.
This is the largest settlement outside of the Greater Reykjavík Area and is a perfect place to stay for those travelling the circle around the country. It is a renowned cultural centre, with many museums, galleries and the world’s northernmost botanical gardens. Many tours depart from here.
Goðafoss can be reached throughout the year, although drivers in winter will want to be sure that they rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo by Smiley.toerist
Hrísey is an island in the fjord Eyjafjörður of north Iceland of around 200 people.
Widely hailed as 'The Pearl of Eyjafjörður', the beauty and tranquility of Hrísey, along with its interesting history and culture, the hospitality of the locals, its rich birdlife and its fantastic views, have made the island an essential stop for travellers.
History & Culture
Hrísey has been inhabited since the age of settlement and is mentioned as early as in Landnámabók and the Saga of Víga-Glúms.
From early on, fishing and trade from the island was the lifeblood of the economy, and in the 19th century, Norwegians and Swedes set up a herring salting factory here, providing more work. The locals soon followed suit and developed their own herring industry, reaching its greatest heights between 1930 and 1950.
Overfishing in Icelandic waters led to a steep decline in the fishing industry in the 1960s, and the last fish freezing plant on Hrísey, owned by the Eyjafjörður Co-operative Society, closed in 1999. Today, the locals have diversified their economy and make their living through fishing and tourism.
Among the many beautiful houses in Hrísey is the house of Shark-Jorundur, built in 1885-6, which features an exhibition on shark hunting in Iceland, which reached its peak in the 19th century. This was an industry that was extremely hazardous and claimed many lives but could be highly profitable, as shark liver oil was used for street lighting until petrol took over.
At the house of Alda Halldórsdóttir, built in 1913, there is a regional museum. An old fishing station has been turned into a handworks gallery, showcasing handicrafts such as knitting products, handmade candles, paintings, artefacts made from seashells, souvenirs and more.
Nature lovers should also check out the birdhouse and the lighthouse, which offers a fantastic view of the area.
Nature
Wikimedia, Creative Commons, Photo by Dreizung
The island itself is around seven kilometres (four miles) long and 2.5 kilometres (1.5 miles) wide, and rather flat, only 110 meters (361 feet) above sea level at its highest. The island is comprised of basalt and its upper lair of moraine (which is glacier debris, soil and rock) and it is well vegetated. Among the many plants found on the island are wooly willow, tea-leaved willow, common juniper and dwarf birch.
There is a geothermal heat and hot water supply on the island, and at the seashore there’s a pool with a heat of 60°C. It becomes submerged with sea water during flood.
As noted, the island is a haven for birds and more than 40 species may be found here. Most abundant are ptarmigans, but Hrísey also has the largest breeding colony of arctic terns in Europe and many types of moorland birds live on the island as well.
Transport & Services
To reach the island, you‘ll need to take the ferry Sævar from the village Árskógssandur, on the west coast of Eyjafjörður. The ferry goes hourly in summertime and the journey takes around 20 minutes. A bus goes from Akureyri to the village. The drive takes around 30 minutes.
Hrísey offers good services, and along with the museums, gallery and lighthouse, it has a bank, a restaurant, a shop and a post office. There are also several options for accommodation on the island.
There are also great walking trails around the island, where you can enjoy the peace and beauty of the Pearl of Eyjafjörður.
Lore
According to legend, it was here in the 18th century that a sorcerer conjured one of a horrible and monstrous ghost. It‘s said that the ghost was created by flaying a calf so it dragged its hide by its tail, and was given the elements of man, cat, dog, air, bird, mouse and two sea creatures so that it was being able to take on all these forms.
Other accounts claim that the monster came to be as the sorcerer placed a dog‘s leg inside the head of a flayed calf and recited evil poetry over it.
The ghost was first conjured to haunt a woman who had spurned the sorcerer in love. It would then grow ever stronger and harder to contain, until the sorcerer could no longer control it.
It is said to have followed its creator’s family for long after, and some claim it haunts the descendants to this day.
Photo from Goðafoss Waterfall and the Mývatn Nature Baths
The Mývatn Nature Baths are a set of geothermally heated pools and steam baths found in the Lake Mývatn area. They are about two kilometres east of the village of Reykjahlíð, and a fantastic example of Iceland’s hot spring culture.
Opened in 2004, the Mývatn Nature Baths can be considered to be somewhat of a northern equivalent of the world-famous Blue Lagoon Spa, found in Iceland's south-west. It is the only pool of its size in the area and is ever increasing in popularity. It is recommended you book tickets in advance in the summer.
Facilities and Price of the Mývatn Nature Baths
The Mývatn Nature Baths are centred around a large lagoon, which has a temperature of about 36 to 40 degrees Celsius (97 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit). The water here is packed with minerals, particularly sulphur, which is said to be good for respiratory and skin problems.
There are also two steam-baths, sat directly on top of churning geothermal waters. The temperature in these is close to 50 degrees Celsius (122 degrees Fahrenheit), and humidity is near 100%, so be sure to be well hydrated before going in. The site also has a hot tub and a separate pool for young children, as well as a restaurant.
The price for adult entry is 4,500 ISK for the winter season (until the end of April) and 5000 ISK in summer (until the end of September); 1,800 and 2200 ISK respectively for teenagers aged 13-15; and 3,000 ISK respectively for senior citizens, handicapped customers and students; and free for those 12 and younger with an adult.
Sites Around the Mývatn Nature Baths
The Mývatn region is one of the most diverse in Iceland. You will only have to drive five minutes from the Nature Baths to come across natural geothermal phenomena, such as those at Mount Námaskarð. On this pass, you will find dozens of seething fumaroles and bubbling mud pits, that dye the land vivid colours and fill the air with noxious fumes.
Nearby you will also find geological wonders, such as at Dimmuborgir. This ‘lava fortress’ is unbelievably dramatic, and steeped in folklore; it is said that this is where the thirteen evil Santas of Iceland live. It is no wonder that it was used in Game of Thrones as the setting for Mance Rayder’s Wildling Camp Beyond the Wall.
Another nearby site used in Game of Thrones that combines both geothermal energy and geological beauty is the Grjótagjá hot spring cave. While you cannot bathe here, you can feel the water and see where Jon Snow and his Wildling lover consummated their relationship.
The lake Mývatn itself is beautiful and renowned for its birdlife, with over a dozen species of duck, to say nothing of the other species. Those interested in flora will be interested to know that this is one of the few places in the world where you can see moss balls.
The Mývatn area is also considered a point on the Diamond Circle sightseeing route, so it is close to other incredible places of the North, such as Goðafoss and Dettifoss Waterfalls.
Tröllaskagi is a dramatic peninsula in north Iceland, renowned for its enormous mountains and high population of Icelandic horses.
Geography of Tröllaskagi
Outside of the Highlands, Tröllaskagi has the tallest mountains in Iceland, many exceeding 1,000 metres (3281 ft) in height. The tallest here is Mount Kerling, which is over 1,500 metres (4921 ft) tall.
In spite of its elevation, the permanent glaciers on the peaks are miniscule compared to even average Icelandic ice caps.
Many valleys and bays were carved at the end of the last ice age, meaning the region is home to many rivers and waterfalls.
What to do on the Tröllaskagi Peninsula
The Tröllaskagi Peninsula lies to the west of Eyjafjorður, the fjord in which the ‘capital of the North’, Akureyri, is nestled, and to the east of Skagafjörður. In spite of its tall mountains, its lowland regions have quite a high population, due to excellent fishing and surprisingly fertile lands.
Most farms are horse-farms, and riding is a popular activity in the area. Icelandic horses are a unique breed, known for being smaller than others, but also more intelligent, curious and sturdy. They also have their own unique gait, the tölt, making them a favourite amongst equestrians.
Though only at the base of the peninsula, Akureyri is the most popular town in the area. It has a wealth of museums and galleries, excellent opportunities for whale-watching and other tours, and is close to highlights of the north such as Lake Mývatn and Goðafoss waterfall.
Besides the Capital of the North, the most popular towns on it for visitors are Hofsós and Siglufjörður.
Hofsós is most renowned for its Infinity Pool, an outdoor swimming pool with unbelievable views over the fjord and ocean. Those who have a walk along the cliffs here will also note some beautiful basalt rock formations.
Siglufjörður, meanwhile, is best known for it Herring Era Museum. This museum has won an international award, and discusses how fisheries sustained the Icelandic populous in such tough conditions before the country’s development.
