Attractions: 
Reykjavík is the capital of Iceland and the northernmost capital of any sovereign state in the world.
Despite a small population (approximately 120,000, with just over 200,000 in the Greater Reykjavík area), it is a vibrant city that draws an ever increasing number of visitors every year. It is the financial, cultural and political centre of Iceland, and has a reputation of being one of the cleanest and safest cities in the world.
Geography
The city of Reykjavík is located in southwest Iceland by Faxaflói Bay. Throughout the ages, the landscape has been shaped by glaciers, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions and the area is geothermal; after all, its name translates to ‘Smoky Bay’.
Much of the current city area was subglacial during the Ice Age, with the glacier reaching as far as the Álftanes peninsula, while other areas lay under the sea. After the end of the Ice Age, the land rose as the glaciers drifted away, and it began to take on its present form.
The coastline of Reykjavík is set with peninsulas, coves, straits and islands, most notably the island of Viðey, and seabirds and whales frequent the shores. The mountain ring as seen from the shore is particularly beautiful.
Mount Esjan is the highest mountain in the vicinity of Reykjavík and the most distinctive feature of the coastline. This majestic summit is also highly popular amongst hikers and climbers. Other notable mountains that can be seen from the seaside are Akrafjall and Skarðsheiði.
On clear days, one may even see as far to the legendary Snæfellsjökull glacier, at the end of the Snæfellsnes peninsula.
The largest river to run through the city is Elliðaá in Elliðaárdalur valley, which is also one of Iceland’s best rivers for salmon fishing.
Transportation
There are no trains or trams in Iceland, but most people travel by car. The city also operates a bus system. There are two major harbours in town, the old harbour in the centre and Sundahöfn in the east.
The domestic Reykjavík Airport is located at Vatnsmýrin, not far from the city centre and close to the hill Öskjuhlíð and the restaurant, vantage point and exhibition centre Perlan. The international Keflavík Airport at Miðnesheiði heath then lies around 50 kilometres (31 miles) from the city.
Cars, jeeps and bicycles can be readily rented in the city and many organized tours are also being offered. It is, however, quite easy to walk between the major sites.
What to See & Do in Reykjavik
The local arts scene is strong in Iceland, with annual events and festivals, many of artists from which have hit the international stage.
Major events taking place in Reykjavík include Iceland Airwaves, Reykjavík Pride, RIFF (The Reykjavík International Film Festival), The Reykjavík Literature Festival, Culture Night, the Reykjavík Arts Festival, Food & Fun, the Reykjavík Fashion Festival and the Sónar music festival.
Amongst the famous people from Reykjavík are musicians like Björk Guðmundsdóttir and Sigur Rós, and writers Halldór Laxness (born on the main street, Laugavegur) and Arnaldur Indriðason.
Those eager to soak up the local culture should visit the city’s many museums, exhibitions and galleries, and check out live music at the cafés, bars, and concert venues dotted around. You could look at the programmes of what’s on at the Harpa music hall or the theatres, or else plan a few hours at the lighthouse at Grótta, the shopping street of Laugavegur, or the old harbour and the flea market.
You could even book a bird- and whale watching tour or a visit to Viðey island. There are a lot of things to do and the possibilities are endless.
Make sure to visit the public square of Austurvöllur, one of the city’s most popular gathering places, where you’ll also find the national parliament, the Alþingi, as well as the state church, a statue of independence hero Jón Sigurðsson, cafés, bars and restaurants.
Austurvöllur was central in the protests following the banking collapse of 2008, along with Lækjargata, home to the House of Government. You are also not likely to miss the great church of Hallgrímskirkja that towers over the city from the hill of Skólavörðuholt, from which you’ll get a great view of the city.
Try a walk by the city pond, Tjörnin, to greet the many birds that frequent the area and to visit the city hall, stationed by its banks. A beautiful park lies by the pond, ideal for a nice walk, and sometimes concerts get held there.
Further off is the campus of the University of Iceland, the Nordic house and the Vatnsmýrin wetland, a particularly pleasant place, but be mindful to not disturb the wildlife there by keeping to the pathways.
For a nice swim on a warm day, we particularly recommend Nauthólsvík beach, which is heated with geothermal water. Those who love a dip should also visit the Laugardalur valley, home to one of the city’s best swimming pools, which sits a short walk away from Ásmundarsafn gallery, a beautiful botanical garden and a domestic zoo.
A walk by the Ægissíða beach, with its old fishing sheds, in the west part of Reykjavík also holds a particular charm. From there, you can see all the way to president’s house at Bessastaðir, which is also a historical site in its own right, having been the educational centre of Iceland for centuries.
Another place that offers one of the city’s best views is Perlan, up on Öskjuhlíð hill. The hill itself is a popular place to spend a few hours, with over 176,000 trees and great opportunities for walking and cycling. Perlan also has and observation deck with great views, a café and an exhibition centre.
Furthermore, the city is a short drive from many of Iceland’s major attractions, most famously the Golden Circle and the Blue Lagoon. In close vicinity you’ll also find the Heiðmörk preservation area, a favourite local site of the people of Reykjavík, as well as the Blue Mountains, one of Iceland’s best skiing venues.
Finally, we’d like to stress that these are only some suggestions of the many things you might check out in Reykjavík. Whatever you choose to do, we hope you’ll be able to make the most of your visit and we wish you a pleasant stay in our capital.
Wikimedia. Creative Commons. Credit: TommyZ
Heiðmörk is a conservation area on the outskirts of Reykjavík, popular amongst locals and visitors for recreational activities.
History of Heiðmörk
Heiðmörk was established as a conservation area in 1950, following reforestation efforts to the region that began in 1949, near the farm of Elliðvatn, named after the adjacent lake of the same name.
Five hundred of each Norway spruce and Sikta Sprice, and eight thousand Scots pines, were planted, and this has since bloomed into a thriving woodland.
Since its creation, Heiðmörk has grown as a protected area to incorporate new areas, and as it has done so, the protections themselves have grown. In 1961, it was declared a national monument, and in 1974, a public field.
It now covers about 3,000 hectares.
Heiðmörk has become so popular that it has more visitors than some of the most famous places in the country, such as Þingvellir National Park on the Golden Circle.
Heiðmörk is also where Reykjavík’s water reservoirs are held.
Flora, Fauna and Nature of Heiðmörk
Heiðmörk’s forests have grown exponentially since the first seeds were buried. To date, over four million trees have been planted, of twenty six different species. Furthermore, nearly two hundred species of different wild flower have been found.
Heiðmork holds Lake Elliðvatn, which helps contribute to its wealth of birdlife. Over sixty species have been identified in the area.
Like any other Icelandic location with good hiding places, Arctic Foxes have been seen here, although are notoriously elusive.
Besides its lakes, waterways, forests and lava fields, Heiðmörk also boasts being home to ‘the red hills’, or Rauðhólar. These 5,200-year-old, red pseudo-craters are vivid and distinctive, but also used to be more dramatic before many were dismantled for road construction in World War Two.
Since being part of Heiðmörk, the craters have been protected from further damage.
Reykjanes is a peninsula in south-west Iceland, characterised by immense lava fields, volcanoes and heightened geothermal activity.
Volcanic & Geothermal Activity
The Reykjanes Peninsula runs along the Mid-Atlantic Rift, where the Eurasian and the North American tectonic plates are drifting apart. Due to this geological setting, the whole peninsula is extremely volcanically active, covered with lava fields, and eruptions and earthquakes are very common here.
During the Middle Ages, many eruptions occurred in Reykjanes, but no eruptions have been recorded here for the last 500 years. This is simply a period of dormancy, however; they could start again at any time.
Earthquakes are still common. In 2001, one occurred beneath the lake Kleifarvatn and drained it to the extent that it lost 25 per cent of its surface area. Since then, hot springs have been bubbling beneath its surface.
The main geothermal areas of Reykjanes, however, are Gunnuhver, Krýsuvik and Svartsengi. Various mud pools and fumaroles can be seen at Gunnuhver, while Krýsuvik is characterised by hot springs and mud pots that bestow multicoloured hues upon the soil.
The green crater lake Grænavatn is also an impressive sight.
Svartsengi is home to a geothermal power station that produces 76.5 MW of electricity from the 475 litres of 90° C water that gushes from the earth per second.
The mineral-rich surplus water fills up the Blue Lagoon spa.
Nature & Wildlife
Reykjanes' cliffs are teeming with birdlife. Its best-known bird colony resides in Krýsuvikurbjarg which is the nesting place of approximately eighty thousand seabirds. While puffins are not found here, it is an excellent place to spot cormorants, fulmar, and other such species.
North of Krýsuvíkurbjarg is the aforementioned Kleifarvatn, the largest lake on the peninsula and one of the deepest in Iceland. On the centre of the peninsula is lake Djúpavatn, a popular fishing destination.
Reykjanes is hammered by some of the most breath-taking breaker waves in the world. A short drive from Krýsuvík is Selvogur, where one can witness mighty waves shattering against the rocks. On Reykjanestá, the southwest tip of the peninsula, the waves are known to reach heights of thirty metres (nearly one hundred feet).
Because of this, coastal erosion is constantly ongoing at Reykjanes, and if it were not for the eruptions, it would either be much narrower or simply lost to the seas.
The peninsula's north side is dotted with fishing villages and towns, most notably Keflavík, Sandgerði, Garður and Vogar. Grindavík town is located on the south shore of the peninsula. Together, the towns and towns Keflavík, Njarðvík, Hafnir and Ásbrú make up the municipality Reykjanesbær which consists of just under 16,000 residents, making it the fifth largest municipality in Iceland.
Miðnesheiði
Near Keflavík is the Miðnesheiði heath, where the international airport, Leifsstöð (also known as Keflavíkurflugvöllur, or Keflavík Airport) is located. This is the port of arrival for the vast majority of travellers coming to Iceland.
The World-Famous Spa
On the southern tip of the peninsula is the Blue Lagoon geothermal spa, an ideal place for relaxing and bathing and one of the most-visited attractions in Iceland.
Helgafell is a farm and church site, by a 73 m hill of the same name, and located on Thorsnes, south of Stykkisholmur on Snaefellsnes peninsula. It was a large farm for centuries and had a monastery in the Middle Ages.
In the settlement age, a temple in honour of the thundergod Thor was located at the foot of the hill. Also, according to Laxdaela Saga, heroine Gudrun Osvifursdottir is buried by the hill. In pagan times the mountain was indeed said to be the home for dead people.
The South Coast of Iceland is one of the most popular parts of the country for travellers. South Iceland is lined with countless natural wonders including cascading waterfalls, volcanoes, glaciers and black sand beaches.
This incredible South Shore of Iceland stretches from the greater Reykjavík area in the west to the magnificent Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon in the east. It’s possible to incorporate a trip to The Golden Circle before heading South. This is another popular area with visitors to Iceland. Here you can see Þingvellir (or Thingvellir) National Park, the Geysir geothermal area, a volcanic crater called Kerið, and one of Iceland's biggest waterfalls; Gulfoss.
Highlights of the South Coast of Iceland
The South Coast offers an array of natural wonders that draw thousands of visitors each day.
The whole area is geologically very young, formed during the last Ice Age by the lava flows from numerous volcanoes in the area. The lowlands are surrounded by volcanically active mountains, notably Eyjafjallajökull and Hekla. If you stop at Hveragerði, you can visit the Quake 2008 exhibition where you can witness the split in the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates.
In terms of culture in the South, it is rich and diverse. Most towns have amateur groups for theatre, poetry reading, and choir song. Community is a big part of an Icelander’s life and one of the key things that help them get through the winter months. The South was once home to the ancient bishop seat of Skálholt. Also, Iceland's most famous saga, Njal's Saga, takes place in the region.
When driving the South Coast route from Reykjavík city, the first major features are the two great waterfalls of Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss. These falls which sit beneath the notorious subglacial volcano, Eyjafjallajökull. On clear days, the Westman Islands can be seen across the ocean from these beautiful cascades. Less than a kilometre from Seljalandsfoss is the hidden gem of Gljúfrabúi waterfall.
Skógar, which is home to Skogafoss waterfall, has a very interesting museum that discusses some of the nation’s history and culture. One of Iceland’s most famous hiking trails, Fímmvörðuháls, cuts through the area and is worth the walk if you have time.
A little further down the route is the glacier Mýrdalsjökull glacier, which covers one of Iceland’s most explosive volcanoes, Katla. Many glacier hikes are taken here upon the glacier tongue, Sólheimajökull.
This landscape has also been shaped by volcanic eruptions, although these were much more recent. Vast expanses of the black sand stretch from the Highlands to the sea, part of several glacial outwash plains that flood during a volcanic eruption. One such sandplain, Sólheimasandur, is home to a crashed DC-3 Plane Wreck.
The Dyrhólaey cliffs are next, home to many seabirds. Jutting out to sea is an enormous rock arch of the same name, which you can marvel at from many angles.
Adjacent to the village of Vík is the famous black-sand beach, Reynisfjara, which is home to basalt columns and the Reynisdrangar rock formations. These pillars are said to be two trolls frozen by the light of the sun.
Though beautiful, this area is notorious for its dangerous sneaker waves. Even on seemingly calm and still days, visitors should keep a distance from the shoreline. There are no landmasses between Reynisfjara beach and the continent of Antarctica, so you can imagine how the waves can build momentum.
After passing through Vík you will cross the glacial sandplain of Skeiðarársandur before entering Vatnajökull National Park. Here you can see Vatnajokull Glacier, Iceland’s largest glacier. Many ice cave tours take place in Vatnajokull in the winter months.
Move on to the dramatic Skaftafell Nature Reserve in the National Park. Here you can enjoy a diversity of landscapes and terrains. The area was considered a National Park in its own right because it was so beautiful.
Finally, you will approach the famous Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon, a deep lake that fills with icebergs as the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier slowly breaks down. Here there are plenty of options for boat tours that take you around the lagoon and up close to icebergs. A short distance from Jökulsárlón you will find the Diamond Beach, where blue icebergs wash on the black-sand beach, and another glacier lagoon called Fjallsárlón.
Geography, Nature & Wildlife
The South Coast is the most easily accessible part of the country’s southern region, found along the Ring Road (Route 1), which encircles Iceland. The area is made up of diverse landscapes; marshlands, bays, cultivated pastures, estuaries and black sand deserts.
Underneath the soil rests a vast lava field, known as Þjórsárhraun. Reaching several hundred metres offshore, it provides a protective factor to the lowland as ocean waves crash upon it. This results in the South Shore being unusually lacking in the deep fjords that so distinctly characterise the rest of Iceland's shoreline.
Unlike most early Icelandic settlements, few of the communities in the south were based on fishing. The only town with a significant harbour in the south is Þorlákshöfn, where the ferry to the Westman Islands leaves. Some agriculture is found here, with farms nestled in the mountains, but because of the glacial floods, they are few and far between.
There are, however, plenty of hot springs in the area. The most famous is the Blue Lagoon Spa which is close to Keflavik airport. The lagoon formed as a result of the overflow from a nearby power plant.
However, there are lots of natural geothermal hot springs in more remote locations, where you can avoid the crowds and have a more natural experience. Some of the spots travellers recommend are Seljavallalaug, which is close to Skogar, and Reykjadalur, the Valley of Steam, which is close to Hveragerði.
The South region boasts vibrant bird life during all seasons. Freshwater birds nest in the marshlands and around the estuaries, while seabirds flock around the cliffs of Reynisdrangar and Dyrhólaey.
You may be able to spot North Atlantic puffins nesting on the cliffs between May and August. In summer there are 2-3 times as many Arctic Tern as Icelanders so you are bound to spot some of them on your travels. Some species stay throughout the harsh Icelandic winter, including the northern diver, the loom and various species of gulls and ducks.
Seals are often found along the shore, particularly around the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach. As with everywhere in Iceland, you should always keep an eye out to sea, as whales and dolphins reside all along its coastline.
In terms of sports; horse riding is popular, as is fishing, hiking, snorkelling, sightseeing and river rafting.
The Eastfjords of Iceland is a 120 kilometre (75 miles) stretch of coastline from Berufjörður, in the south, to the small fishing village of Borgarfjörður Eystri in the north.
Out of the country's total population of 335,000 people, only an estimated 3.2% live in East Iceland. Locally referred to as "Austurland" or "Austfirðir", the whole area covers 22,721 square kilometres (8,773 square miles).
Nature in East Iceland
East Iceland has many narrow fjords, surrounded by steep cliffs. Fishing villages sit in most of them.
Often overlooked by visitors, the East Fjords represent the very best of what Iceland has to offer. Including fantastic scenery, remote fishing villages, sparkling lakes, dense forests and traditional farms.
The region boasts the sunniest weather in the country, as well as some of Iceland’s most well-known and loved wildlife.
This region is especially famous for its herds of wild reindeer. It is the only place in the country that reindeer live. Initially brought over for farming, the industry was never lucrative, and they have roamed free ever since.
Migratory birds live both inland and in the cliffs in summer, including the elusive puffin.
Many rivers run through the district and by their estuaries, colonies of seals reside. The fertile waters also provide food to whales and dolphins, making them visible even from the side of the shore.
The impressive mountain Snӕfell (not to be confused with Snæfellsnes Peninsula in the West of Iceland) is Iceland's highest free-standing peak and sits in the East. Near here is the highland oasis of Eyjabakkar, one of the world's most significant nesting places for the pink-footed goose.
Vatnajökull, Europe's largest glacier, stretches to the borders of Eastern Iceland and is so large it is visible from many places throughout the region.
Breathtaking coastlines and the promise of tranquil solitude also bring visitors to East Iceland. It would make an ideal stop on your ring road adventure.
There are plenty of things to do in Iceland’s East Fjords. If you enjoy pleasant walks through nature, Borgarfjörður Eystri is a hiker’s paradise. Local folklore tells that this area is home to elves and Iceland’s ‘hidden folk’.
There are also incredible basalt rock formations in Studlagil Canyon. Though the canyon requires a hike to reach it, it’s a genuinely astonishing place for geologists and nature lovers alike.
The East of Iceland is also home to some beautiful waterfalls, such as Litlanesfoss and Hengifoss.
Egilsstaðir
East Iceland has only a few towns with vital services. The main one of these, considered to be the capital of the region, is Egilsstaðir.
Egilsstaðir has restaurants, museums, shops, petrol stations and an array of accommodation options to suit all budgets. It is also home to an airport, meaning those with limited time or without a driving licence can easily reach it from Reykjavík.
This small, idyllic town in the East of Iceland is famous for many reasons. The most popular things to do near Egilsstadir include hiking, visiting a swimming pool or Spa (Vok Baths is particularly special), visiting waterfalls, and exploring the quaint town. It also boasts a famous Heritage Museum. This gives visitors an insight into the lives of East Icelanders in days gone by.
The area is packed with fantastic cultural landmarks, such as Hallormsstaðarskógur, the country’s largest forest. This can be found just on the eastern shore of Lake Lagarfljót. Look closely enough at the lake, and you may spot a worm monster in the water.
Hallormsstaðaskógur covers 740 hectares. It is made up of over eighty different species of trees from all over the world. The rate it has grown at is astonishing, considering that in 1910 it was merely a small group of trees within a protected paddock.
Egilsstaðir also has an annual electronic music festival, Hringrás; the Orsteiti Town Festival; and a jazz festival.
For something a touch more relaxing, one could also take a soothing dip in the swimming pool at Selárlaug, near Bakkafjörður. The pool is surrounded by mountains and beautiful views over the fjord and is considered one of the most authentic experiences available in the region.
In the East Fjords in winter, you’ll have an excellent chance to see the Northern Lights from such remote areas as Egilsstaðir, weather permitting of course.
Seyðisfjörður
Those visiting Iceland by ferry from mainland Europe or the Faroe Islands will make port at Seyðisfjörður. The town has a small population of 700 people. It is famous for its ornate wooden architecture, Scandinavian influence and historical herring-fishing industry. Much of the timber used to develop Seyðisfjörður was shipped over by Norway ready-made in the 18th century.
In the town centre lies a rainbow-painted street, which leads to a famous blue church.
Seyðisfjörður is surrounded by pounding waterfalls, flat-top mountains and serene hiking trails, complemented by gorgeous panoramas over the adjacent fjord.
Other activities available from or near Seyðisfjörður include scuba diving, skiing, sea angling, paragliding and horseback riding. There are also several cultural exhibits to visit. These include the Fjarðarsel Power Plant Museum and Skaftfell Centre for Visual Arts.
Fáskrúðsfjörður
Fáskrúðsfjörður is a village with a population of just 700. It is nestled in the heart of the East Fjords and has a very distinct culture all of its own.
Its first settlers were French fisherman, and their legacy lives on in this small town. They first arrived in the mid-1800s. The Frenchmen built houses, a hospital and a harbour, which they considered to be all they would need for their time in Iceland.
They were quite settled here in this small coastal village. However, in the First World War, many Frenchmen were called into duty in defence of France. The town soon emptied of men. However, their heritage lives on.
It’s possible to visit the french hospital, where the full story of these French settlers can be learned. It has recently been renovated and stands as a hotel and a museum.
As a nod to the village’s founding fathers, the town continues to display signs in both Icelandic and French. It is also linked to a town in France called Gravelines.
Here they hold two parties every year to celebrate their connection to Iceland. The first is in spring when fisherman would set off to fish in Iceland. The second in autumn, as these men were returning to French shores.
In Fáskrúðsfjörður, the town celebrates its Frenchified connection in the height of summer. July is peaking fishing season, and so the celebrations tended to coincide with this.
For anglers visiting the area, fishing is readily accessible in the nearby Dalsá river.
Visitors are also advised to hike the path along Gilsá river towards the waterfall Gilsárfoss, where they can walk behind the cascading water.
Breiðdalsvík
Breiddalsvik is located south of Fáskrúðsfjörður. It is a small village with a population of just 140 people. This is an excellent location for people who enjoy hiking, and it’s a great spot to look out for wild reindeer, who are often spotted roaming the nearby area.
Visitors can also enjoy the black sand beach of the charming fishing village of Breiddalsvik. It’s possible to take a road trip to the longest and widest valley in Iceland, Breiðdalur.
Papey Island
Papey (“Friar’s Island”) is an uninhabited island located off the east coast of Iceland. The island is approximately 2 square kilometres (0.8 square miles). Its highest point measures 58 metres (190 feet) above sea level. Boat trips to Papey depart every summer from Djúpivogur.
The island is named after Gaelic monks (“The Papar”). These monks are thought to have inhabited the island long before the Norse settlement. Papey was lived on from the 10th century until the year 1966 when the island’s residents finally moved to the mainland.
For centuries, Papey’s residents had supported themselves on fishing for shark, hunting seals and puffins, and tending to their farmsteads. In later years, the residents would also harvest down from Eider Ducks living on the island.
Today, visitors to Papey can enjoy the large puffin colonies that still live on the island. It’s also interesting to see the remnants of the former settlement including a lighthouse, church and weather station. These all still exist much as they did in 1966.
Culture of East Iceland
One of the central points of culture in the East is the cultural and historical centre, Skriðuklaustur, in the Fljótsdalshérað district. In the Middle Ages, a monastery stood on this site. From then on it became the region’s religious centre. In the 20th century, the Icelandic author Gunnar Gunnarsson made it his home.
Gunnar wrote many masterpieces, such as Aðventa (The Good Shepherd), Svartfugl (The Black Cliffs) and Saga Borgaraettarinnar (The Saga of the One-Eyed Guest). He also wrote the autobiographical novel, Fjallkirkjan, which has been given a variety of different titles once translated, including The Church on the Mountain, Ships in the Sky and The Night and the Dream.
Festivals play a significant role in the culture of the East today. Seyðisfjörður hosts the annual music festival LungA. The settlement of Neskaupsstaður also hosts two highly popular annual festivals, Neistaflug and Eistnaflug.
East Iceland is also home to the Kárahnjúkar hydroelectric power station, which provides many of the towns with energy. The construction of this has led to a hot debate on Iceland’s ecological footprint. The debate continues today.
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